Trance Bearing replacement How To.- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Trance Bearing replacement How To.

    What You'll Need.

    • Hammer
    • Weight or other solid object with sufficient size hole
    • 10-15mm & 7mm threaded rod or very long threaded bolts w/ Wing-Nuts or normal Nuts
    • Washers to fit the threaded rod/bolts and just smaller than the OD of the bearings
    • 9mm Socket and Screw Driver Bit socket


    First up you need to totally disassemble the rear suspension of your bike, for this you'll need 2-5mm Alan Keys and 2 - 8mm Alan Keys. Remove the Release the Rear Derailer cable (it is also advisable to remove the actual Rear Derailer so it doesn't get in the way or add additional weight to the rear triangle while working with it) Rear Brake and cable, chain, rear wheel (you can do this if you flip the bike upsided down on the saddle and handlebar) and crankset and that's it for what needs to come off components wise.

    Next release all the air from the rear shock, then using the 5 & 8mm alan keys remove all the suspension bolts - it is easier to use the screw driver adapter bit and a socket wrench w/ 5mm and 8mm alan keys so you don't have to remember which way tightens and which slackens the bolts and wrisk snapping them by accidentally tightening them.

    Once you have the rear triangle off and the two linkages clean them up from grease etc with a rag so you can properly see what you're doing. Remove the contact washers on the inside of the bearings on both the linkages and rear suspension triangle - clean them and put somewhere safe.
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    Part two

    Next is the removal of the bearings and despite what you might think it's very easy to do. First up I guess it's easiest to tackle the bigger bearings that reside in the bottom suspension linkage - Place the bottom suspension linkage on the weight - with a cloth over the hole to protect the finish on the linkage. Then using the Screw Driver adapter bit and the right length extension put the smaller end so it sits on the inside of the bearing race start to gently tap the bearing out, get accustomed to keeping the extension and bit straight while gently tapping. Once you've got the stroke down start to apply more force if the bearing hasn't started moving - You want to be careful and get the bearing out as level as possible to minimize the possibilty of ovalizing the bearing retension slot and having play when you install the new bearing and possibly replacemnt of the part.

    Use the same tools to remove the bottom suspension bearings from the rear triangle - you will need a longer extension to reach through from one side of the triangle to the other so that you can reach it with the hammer to give it the loving taps
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    Last edited by LyNx; 11-04-2006 at 06:20 PM.
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    Part three

    Then follow on and remove the the bearings from the rocker arm linkages using the above technique, but replace the Screw Driver Adapter bit with the 9mm socket. Once again take your time and get accustomed to holding the bit 90 degrees to the bearing to get it out as level as possible. Increase the tapping pressure as needed till the bearing is out.
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    Part four

    Next is the upper bearings in the rear triangle, for these you will need the 7mm threaded bolt. Push the rod through the triangle, then apply the nut to the rod behind the bearing. Then once again proceed to tap the bearing out, making sure to keep the rod square to the bearing reducing the risk of ovalizing the slot.

    I did not have the threaded bolt when I did it so I show the shorter bolt that I then used a solid piece of metal as an extension through the other bearing, but the threaded rod makes life much easier - I was in a rush and used what was around the house.
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    Last edited by LyNx; 11-04-2006 at 06:19 PM.
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  5. #5
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    Part five

    To press in your new Enduro Bearings you will need the two different size threaded rods - the closer you can get the size of the rod to the actual ID of the bearing the easier it will be to keep the bearing going in straight. Use a small amount of grease around the outside of the bearing and around the inside of the slot.

    Put the threaded rod through the slot with a nut/wing-nut on either side of the part and slowly start to tighten them so the washers press firmly onto the bearing and rear of the linkage/rear triangle - Make sure that the bearing is sitting level/square, then as you tighten the bearing in constantly check to make sure it is going in even on all sides.

    Remember that the bearings only need to be tightened until they stop, don't keep trying to tighten them once you feel them stop unless for some strange reason (not in square to the hole) then you will have to tighten them on the side that requires it and hope that the hole isn't ovalized and /or the bearing damamged - the Enduro MAX bearings are very mugh tighter and sturdier than the normal caged bearings though..

    Reassemble the frame and torque the bolts back, but be careful not to over torque them as they are Hollow Bolts and will snap easily. Also remember to re-check that they are still tight after a ride or two.
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    Last edited by LyNx; 11-04-2006 at 06:11 PM.
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  6. #6
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    As Promised

    Here is the tutorial that I promised I would do for removing and installing new frame bearings for the Trance/Reign. If you have any comments/questions please feel free to post them. Sorry if it isn't as in depth as it could be, but it seemed like it was needed rather now than later and I tried my best at it. I will try to update/re-word it better as time permits and suggestions come in. Also if the images are explanitary enough let me know and I will try for better ones.

    Note you can use either the wong nuts or the plain nuts, but either way you'll eventually end up using a spanner to help finishing tighten the wing nuts as finger strength for all isn't always up to the torque required.

    LyNx

    Attached is the Torque specs for the Reign - would assume they use they same specs as the Trance, but have found no such spec sheet for the Trance to confirm.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by LyNx; 12-12-2006 at 10:10 AM. Reason: Updated Torque Specs to include Newton Meters (N-m)
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  7. #7
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    Good Intstruction...

    This should be VERY helpful to those who are bound to have issues with their suspension. That is to say anyone whose bike doesn't sit in the garage!!
    "Mach-S, the speed at which stress can't keep up, is simply forward motion. But it has to be self- propelled. Note that people in cars are still stressed." Jef Mallett

  8. #8
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    You are the Speedub.Nate of the Giant board. Great job

  9. #9
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    Get a hand model or something next time
    Great info, very ingenious methods. Thanks!

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    Good job! Special thanks to Speedub.Nate

    That's a huge compliment to me, Thanks and to be fair I just took Speeddub.nate's tool for headset pressing (the threaded rod) and used it for pressing the bearings - cause that's all the headset is and it works great. Actually I wanted to do a animated GIF of installing the bearings - like Nate's -, but alas I had already installed them so it would have meant removing and re-installing them and I didn't feel like tempting fate.
    Quote Originally Posted by Haggis
    You are the Speedub.Nate of the Giant board. Great job
    What are you trying to say? You don't like my man sized, hairy hands LMAO
    Quote Originally Posted by Benno
    Get a hand model or something next time
    Great info, very ingenious methods. Thanks!
    Thanks for the feedback guys any suggestions are more than wlecome - it's been a while since I've done stuff like this so I'm a bit rusty with the ol' writtin skills.
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  11. #11
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    WOW - Great Info, Lynx.

  12. #12
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    LyNx is da man!!!

    Thanks
    Happiness is a warm 2 stroke.

  13. #13
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    Serious Props go out to Lynx!!

    Thanks a ton for that. I'm ordering Enduro bearings in anticipation of needing them sooner than later for my '05 and really appreciate that. I also have a "speedub Nate" headset press so this makes perfect sense.

    BTW, just got out on my Reign for a couple of rides last week and LOVE it so far. Pics and full reviews to follow once I get the suspension dialed and get it out for more rides. Really looking forward to riding a bike with a different suspension than my other bikes.

    Cheers,
    EBX

  14. #14
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    fantastic work!

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    Bumping up this thread to request that a moderator make this a sticky, please.

    I'm also bumping this up because my non-drive side rocker/seat stay pivot is messed up in a big way. The race came out attached to the pivot bolt and there were only 3 balls left in the bearing. What happened to the others? Ground into dust?

    Now I'm concerned that the frame could be damaged. I don't know if I should contact Giant as see what they'll do for me, or just replace all the bearings and hope that the bearing retention slot hasn't been damaged (the bike has just started to creak). I just don't want Giant to say I damaged it when I replaced the bearings..... Oh and Performance (where I bought the bike) no longer carries Giant.

    And to make matters worse I'm heading to Fruita in a week and a 1/2 and I've gotta have the bike fixed & tested by then.

    I think I'll just fix it myself, but I'd be interested to hear what Giant has done for others when their 05' bearings have failed.
    Happiness is a warm 2 stroke.

  16. #16
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    Similar thing happened to my mate's frame. I don't think the bearing seat gets damaged cos it's protected by the outer race. It's pretty easy to tell when the bearing goes eh? The whole rear end starts to flex all over the place. The trick is removing the race without causing any damage. (Tomorrow night's task - will let you know how it goes).

    Edit:
    Dismantled the rear triangle and found the spacer that goes between the linkage and the bearing seat had been deformed by hammering on the bearing seat and munted the frame in the process. The RHS bearing was rough but still intact, but the same thing had started to happen to the spacer & frame. Frame is only 10 months old and well maintained, as soon as the bearing collapsed the guy stopped riding it. Hopefully Giant will replace the rear triangle.

    The bearings in the centre of the linkage were rough but had no play. The big bearings in the lower swing-link were in perfect nick. The driveside Raceface X-type bearing was rough and the other side was fine.

    Moral of the story: replace the upper bearings in the rear triangle with Enduro Max from Chris sooner rather than later, (and keep a close eye on them thereafter)http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id56.html.
    Last edited by Haggis; 11-13-2006 at 02:22 AM.

  17. #17
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    Quick question. I have a trance 2 (06 model) and its been making noise at high torque. If if push the pedal down (while holding the bike stationary) with my hand I he ar a click noise. While riding I can hear noises only at high torque. At the shop he tightened some bolts and told me to expect some noises, that it cant be totally quiet. The thing is that i am pretty new to biking and have no clue whats going on, or whether it is acceptable or not. Could this be a bearing issue?

  18. #18
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    This is really a matter for another thread, let's keep Lynx's damn fine thread on-topic.

    I think the noise is probably crank/bb or bb/frame interface. Liberal coating of anti-seize grease and correct torque should sort it. Of course it could also be seat-post/frame, QR/frame, frame/wheel QR, pedals/crank or headset/stem/bars. Grease and tighten intelligently - (not brutally OR insufficiently). Or, take it to another shop if your lazy mechanic won't sort it for you.

  19. #19
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    Can anyone confirm that the picture is correctly labeled?

    I'm assuming that the part labeled "frame" is physically part of the rear triangle. Or is it part of the bearing?

    Because if it is part of the rear triangle, then I don't see how I'm going to remove the remainder of the existing bearing (outer race/bearing cage) as it has to be pressed out towards the camera/viewer.

    {edit} Never mind, I see that it's actually a spacer that sits between the rocker and the bearing
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    Last edited by Steve71; 11-13-2006 at 11:26 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve71
    Because if it is part of the rear triangle, then I don't see how I'm going to remove the remainder of the existing bearing (outer race/bearing cage) as it has to be pressed out towards the camera/viewer.

    {edit} Never mind, I see that it's actually a spacer that sits between the rocker and the bearing
    There's a lip on the inside of the outer race you can use to extract it. Take it to an engineer or make a tool.
    Have you had a look at the spacer & reverse side of the rear triangle? Mashed?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Haggis
    There's a lip on the inside of the outer race you can use to extract it. Take it to an engineer or make a tool.
    Have you had a look at the spacer & reverse side of the rear triangle? Mashed?
    The spacer on the defective bearing side will need to be replaced as the edge is no longer flat the whole way around.

    I ended up taking the bike into a Giant dealer and they are going to replace the bearings with the enduros. Hopefully the frame isn't damaged at all, but I'm concerned enough that I though it best to have Giant do it. Cost is going to be about $60-70 for labor.

    BTW Giant denied any inferiority with the 05 bearing spec and said don't believe what you read on MTBR.com
    Happiness is a warm 2 stroke.

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    Update:

    Well the shop called today to tell me my rear triangle has ovalised at the failed bearing.

    The Giant rep is coming out on Monday to see if they will warrant it. Hopefully all will go well and I'll still be able to get the bike back together to hit Moab/Fruita.

    I really hope Giant stands behind their warranty, as the damage to the frame is a direct result of a bad bearing. The frame is only one year only, I'm only 150lb and I've never broken a frame in my life (this is my 6th frame in 14 years of riding).
    Happiness is a warm 2 stroke.

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    Bad luck Steve. Mate's frame is the same and Giant is looking at it now... They better stump up, those two top rear-triangle bearings are undersized for the application. That's all there is to it.

    My bike is exactly same age as his, and ridden just as hard if not harder, but the top rear triangle bearings/spacers/frame are fine. When the bike was new; I pulled the bearing seals off, cleaned out the stock grease with solvent, brush & compresser and regreased with marine wheel-bearing grease. Really does increase their life.

    Pulled the frame apart this morning to replace the top rear triangle bearings with Enduros. (Better sooner than later with those two). The others are still mint.

  24. #24
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    So any word on your mates bike Haggis, did GIANT take care of him? Keep us updated as GIANT really seems to be stepping up to it and replacing the bearings, not 100% on if they're actually owning up on the speccing of those crappy bearings but at least they seem to be warrantying the stuff.

    Quote Originally Posted by Haggis
    Bad luck Steve. Mate's frame is the same and Giant is looking at it now... They better stump up, those two top rear-triangle bearings are undersized for the application. That's all there is to it.

    Pulled the frame apart this morning to replace the top rear triangle bearings with Enduros. (Better sooner than later with those two). The others are still mint.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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    Did mine today, it was pretty hard (!). My bearings were well and truely stuck in, got them out in the end.... Hard to get the others back in as they wouldn't go straight! But it's all good, feels VERY smooth now, i had 3 bad ones

    Aaron

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    Hey Trance gurus - Steve71 and Haggis in particular,
    Just wondering if you think this frame has the same problem you're talking about, and might need rear triangle replacing? Or maybe it's not too bad? Photo at:
    [dull close up of scratched paint removed]
    The guy has had bearings replaced by a shop, and you think they'd say if it was no good?
    I'm looking at buying the frame used, but if it needs a new triangle this might not be a good idea?!
    Cheers
    Ben

    UPDATE: It was just scratched up paint due to rough handling/nasty hack job as suggested below :-)
    Last edited by sqwheeler; 12-04-2006 at 02:21 AM.

  27. #27
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    Rear Triangle

    Quote Originally Posted by sqwheeler
    Hey Trance gurus - Steve71 and Haggis in particular,
    Just wondering if you think this frame has the same problem you're talking about, and might need rear triangle replacing? Or maybe it's not too bad? Photo at:
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/joandben/308653672/
    The guy has had bearings replaced by a shop, and you think they'd say if it was no good?
    I'm looking at buying the frame used, but if it needs a new triangle this might not be a good idea?!
    Cheers
    Ben
    Mine was about the same, maybe not quite as worn, but the seat for the bearing is inside and there was essentially no damage there. The head of the pivot wore and caused the damage but it had no effect on the function. It is prolly fine IMO. And by the way, Giant sent me a new rear triangle, but I used my old one. Been riding it 3-4 weeks now with no problems. Only other trouble is a worn bushing in the upper shock pivot. Parts coming for that.
    "Mach-S, the speed at which stress can't keep up, is simply forward motion. But it has to be self- propelled. Note that people in cars are still stressed." Jef Mallett

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by sqwheeler
    Hey Trance gurus - Steve71 and Haggis in particular,
    Just wondering if you think this frame has the same problem you're talking about, and might need rear triangle replacing? Or maybe it's not too bad? Photo at:
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/joandben/308653672/
    The guy has had bearings replaced by a shop, and you think they'd say if it was no good?
    I'm looking at buying the frame used, but if it needs a new triangle this might not be a good idea?!
    Cheers
    Ben
    Nope, not the same. You can't actually see the ovalising as it happens behind the frame. When the bearings collapse the spacer which is between the bearing and the linkage plate hammers on the bearing seat.
    Eventually you might see it from the outside when the pivot bolt slogs out the entire hole, but it's the smaller hole which forms the seat which gets slogged out first.
    You can easily see movement in the pivot when the bearing collapses. (STOP riding).

    Your pic seems to show rough handling during the bearing replacement.

  29. #29
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    Well, what can i say!?! Very helpful!!!

    Kudos to LyNx!!!

    A shoutout, "Ambassador of Giant"!

  30. #30
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    Was gona say it looked like a nasty hack job on the install, but your terminology is more politically correct
    Quote Originally Posted by Haggis
    .....Your pic seems to show rough handling during the bearing replacement.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

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    Thanks for your comments...I'll go and take a look and not doubt end up poorer than when I went :-)

    UPDATE: Yup, now have less cash, more frame. Building up to be done...
    Last edited by sqwheeler; 12-04-2006 at 02:22 AM.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx
    So any word on your mates bike Haggis, did GIANT take care of him? Keep us updated as GIANT really seems to be stepping up to it and replacing the bearings, not 100% on if they're actually owning up on the speccing of those crappy bearings but at least they seem to be warrantying the stuff.
    Giant NZ is replacing the rear triangle but it's taken a month and still no ETA so they sent the damaged one back with a new bearing to keep him going.
    Last edited by Haggis; 12-15-2006 at 06:07 PM.

  33. #33
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    Thanks for inspiring me to do this and taking the time for the tutorial. I changed out my bearings with the Enduro Max bearings the other day. I am giving the bike a complete servicing (rebuilding the shock, repacking wheel bearings & headset, etc), so I haven't put it back together yet to give it a try.

    Here is one issue I had with those pesky little bearings on the top of the rear triangle. As it turns out, the press was too tight. While on the bike, those little bearings did not rotate and I thought they were frozen. However, outside of their holes they rotated ( very "clunky" with obvious dimples inside the bearing on the races). As I pressed in the new bearings, I noticed that they did not rotate either while halfway through the operation. As it turns out, there was too much of a press interference. I removed the bearing, lightly sanded the inner aluminum surface (LIGHTLY!) and the bearing pressed in very nicely after that. The bearing now rotates as it should. As it was, those bearings were acting like a bushing -- probably since assembly.

    Thank you again.

  34. #34

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    Trance Bearings

    Are the Trance bearing problems limited to the 05 models? I have an 06 Trance and wonder if they use different bearings after all the problems with the 05's.

    Thanks for taking the time to do this. Very helpful.

  35. #35
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    Giant specified the wrong type of bearing in 05 for these applications. They should have used full compliment bearings from the start (high ball count because they do not rotate much). They used caged bearings with less balls, which are designed for higher rotation applications.

    But, from talking with the LBS owner, his 06 Trance needed a bearing replacement, too. However, he beats the hell out of the thing and his sponsored racer used his Trance when her Anthem was out of commision (very muddy year, here).

    Disassembly of the bike is pretty easy, so it is not hard to check. I suggest that you take the rear triangle off and feel how the bearings rotate. If the bearings don't rotate easiler or they feel "clunky" (like a ratcheting-type feel), chances are you probably need new bearings. The worst two locations on my bike were on the rear triangle -- the lower large bearing set and the upper small bearing set.

    While the bike is apart, you might as well clean her up, re-lube everything and make her look & feel nice. After replacing my bearings & rebuilding my shock, she runs like a dream again.

    Have fun!

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx
    Here is the tutorial that I promised I would do for removing and installing new frame bearings for the Trance/Reign. If you have any comments/questions please feel free to post them. Sorry if it isn't as in depth as it could be, but it seemed like it was needed rather now than later and I tried my best at it. I will try to update/re-word it better as time permits and suggestions come in. Also if the images are explanitary enough let me know and I will try for better ones.

    Note you can use either the wong nuts or the plain nuts, but either way you'll eventually end up using a spanner to help finishing tighten the wing nuts as finger strength for all isn't always up to the torque required.

    LyNx

    Attached is the Torque specs for the Reign - would assume they use they same specs as the Trance, but have found no such spec sheet for the Trance to confirm.

    i just bought a torque wrench that has ft/lb's, is it just a matter of dividing the above by 12?

    G

  37. #37
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    Yep, just take the torque values presented on the diagram in in-lb and divide by 12 to get ft-lb.

  38. #38
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    Yup Joe's right as far as Lenard Zinn says - strange how FT lbs can be lower than Newton Meters

    Quote Originally Posted by Allamuchy Joe
    Yep, just take the torque values presented on the diagram in in-lb and divide by 12 to get ft-lb.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  39. #39
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    Question on spacer orientation during bearing replace

    I've begun the process - going ok except that as I disconnected the first linkage, the spacers fell out and I'm unable to determine what their orientation should be when I replace them.

    This is for the chainstay pivot (#4 from the torque diagram). There's a side to the spacer that has a smaller OD, and a side with a larger OD. How should they be oriented - as in the first photo or the second photo below?
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  40. #40
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    Ever one to look a gift horse in the mouth... what would be really handy is if it could be put together as a PDF so it can be downloaded and printed. Enduro doesn't have pictorial instructions on their site for the suspension bearings, maybe they'd swap you some product for packaging the instructions so they could use them.

  41. #41
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    That's funny - the email receipt I received from Enduro included a link to this thread!

    Now, back to my previous question on spacer orientation...

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by swoodbrn
    That's funny - the email receipt I received from Enduro included a link to this thread!

    Now, back to my previous question on spacer orientation...
    The side with the smaller OD faces the bearing like in Picture #2.

  43. #43
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    Houston, um,...ah...

    Yes, perhaps a little problem here. I managed to insert the new Enduro bearings, with what I had believed to be no major problems, e.g., none getting too off-kilter or jamming during the process. Unfortunately, I'm now getting a very displeasing crackling noise and rather rough feel from 7 of 8 of them, as I rotate them with my fingers. My suspicion is that this is not good.

    Anyone familiar with these bearings ready to tell me not to worry, this is all good, just part of the "cracklin' goodness" of the bearings?
    Last edited by swoodbrn; 01-09-2007 at 10:03 PM.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by swoodbrn
    Yes, perhaps a little problem here. I managed to insert the new Enduro bearings, with what I had believed to be no major problems, e.g., none getting too off-kilter or jamming during the process. Unfortunately, I'm now getting a very displeasing crackling noise and rather rough feel from 7 of 8 of them, as I rotate them with my fingers. My suspicion is that this is not good.

    Anyone familiar with these bearings ready to tell me not to worry, this is all good, just part of the "cracklin' goodness" of the bearings?
    Did you press them in with bolts and washers pushing on the outer race? Washers have to be sized just right to press on the outer race but not catch the frame. If the washers are too small the force goes on the inner race and seals which may damage the bearing. I had trouble finding the right size washers for the 1910 bearings and resorted to 'turning' the washer down by running it on a 10mm bolt on a power-grinder. Worked perfectly.
    Last edited by Haggis; 01-10-2007 at 03:07 AM.

  45. #45
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    Yes, I had the washers pushing on the outer races. I'm taking from this that when you were done, you had no crackling noises or rough movement?

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    Yes, I had the washers pushing on the outer races. I'm taking from this that when you were done, you had no crackling noises or rough movement?

    I guess it's irrelevant, as I'm not replacing them again (at least, not now). Looks like I'm gonna "ride 'em out", checking frequently for movement that could damage the frame seats and/or reduce performance.
    Last edited by swoodbrn; 01-10-2007 at 07:27 AM.

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by swoodbrn
    Yes, I had the washers pushing on the outer races. I'm taking from this that when you were done, you had no crackling noises or rough movement?
    No, Enduros were smooth. Haven't replaced the bigger bearings yet as they were still mint.

  48. #48
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    [QUOTE=swoodbrn]Yes, I had the washers pushing on the outer races. I'm taking from this that when you were done, you had no crackling noises or rough movement?
    QUOTE]

    One thing I noticed when I replaced the little bearings on the rear triangle -- they were in their pockets too tight. The interference fit was too much and the bearings didn't want to rotate at all once pressed in. What I did was press them out again, LIGHTLY sand the inner surface of the pocket and re-press them in. They work very well now.

  49. #49
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    Hmm. The worst ones for me are the big ones on the rear triangle (chainstay pivot). I'm a little scared I would do more damage to them getting them out than leaving them in. What did you sand with?

  50. #50
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    Swoodbrn sorry to hear you're having so much trouble with the bearings, my install went smooth but like Joe I also found the small top bearings in the triangle were tight ans MAYBE the rocker bearing seats one might be slightly ovaled. Bearings were smooth as silk when I installed them. Have you checked that they are completely seated into the recess? Did you check how the bearings felt before you installed them? Maybe consider taking off the seals and seeing if anything is amiss in there.

    Please let us know how it goes as I haven't heard of any others having trouble with the install.

    As to the PDFing of this How To, I may well look into doing it in the future.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  51. #51
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    Thanks for the concern. I actually just reseated the triangle bearings after some sanding of the recesses, and they're STILL "clicky" - maybe a little bit better, but really, not much. Yes, they were completely seated into the recesses, both times, and yes, they were smooth prior to install, both times. After sanding, they definitely went in easier, but still snuggly. I can't imagine you'd want them to slide in any easier than they did this time. Now that it's fully assembled, I don't hear any clicking, or detect any resistance as I move it through the travel now, but then, I doubt I would. Enough of all this - it's time to ride, and I'll just have to be very vigilant.

    What's sad is that the previous ones weren't really that bad off - just rusted and lacking lube. Perhaps they would have gone south fast.
    Last edited by swoodbrn; 01-11-2007 at 11:39 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by swoodbrn
    I've begun the process - going ok except that as I disconnected the first linkage, the spacers fell out and I'm unable to determine what their orientation should be when I replace them.

    This is for the chainstay pivot (#4 from the torque diagram). There's a side to the spacer that has a smaller OD, and a side with a larger OD. How should they be oriented - as in the first photo or the second photo below?


    I have replaced my bearings with the spacers orientated like picture #1. Very smooth ride so far.

  53. #53
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    I'd change them 'round.

    If it were me, since the spacer is designed specifically that way for a reason. The smaller side runs on the inner race of the bearing and the fatter part is what makes contact with the rocker arm - more surface area=better . IMHO

    Quote Originally Posted by milker
    I have replaced my bearings with the spacers orientated like picture #1. Very smooth ride so far.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  54. #54
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    Sounds OK

    Once you're not hearing any clicking or sqeaking or some such I'd say go ride. Damn even if they aren't perfect, they really aren't an expensive replacement part are they Maybe you just have really tight bearing seats/slots. Just ride it and recheck that everything still feels right after a few good rides.

    Quote Originally Posted by swoodbrn
    Thanks for the concern. I actually just reseated the triangle bearings after some sanding of the recesses, and they're STILL "clicky" - maybe a little bit better, but really, not much. ................ Now that it's fully assembled, I don't hear any clicking, or detect any resistance as I move it through the travel now, but then, I doubt I would. Enough of all this - it's time to ride, and I'll just have to be very vigilant.

    What's sad is that the previous ones weren't really that bad off - just rusted and lacking lube. Perhaps they would have gone south fast.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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    Just great, now i have to open it again!

    Thanks.

  56. #56
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    I guess they ARE better...

    As I said, the original bearings didn't seem THAT bad when I got them out. However, during my first test ride, I noticed the ride is much softer. Given the same air pressure (main and SPV in the Swinger), I've now got a full 3-4 mm more sag. Anyone else seen this kind of difference?

  57. #57
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    Got your Answer

    Well I guess that answers your question right there. If you have the shock setup exactly as you did before and yet get more SAG with identical settings I'd say that the original bearings were definitely worse than you thought and now the Full Compliment type are allowing the suspension to work proerly. Try adjusting pressures to get back to proper SAG and see how it feels.

    Quote Originally Posted by swoodbrn
    As I said, the original bearings didn't seem THAT bad when I got them out. However, during my first test ride, I noticed the ride is much softer. Given the same air pressure (main and SPV in the Swinger), I've now got a full 3-4 mm more sag. Anyone else seen this kind of difference?
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  58. #58
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    Not sure if there's still people buying '05's anymore, but I thought that I'd maybe resurface this thread in case a few missed it. Hopefully all have managed to either replace the bearings them selves or had them replaced under warranty by GIANT.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  59. #59

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    Bearing identification?

    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx
    Not sure if there's still people buying '05's anymore, but I thought that I'd maybe resurface this thread in case a few missed it. Hopefully all have managed to either replace the bearings them selves or had them replaced under warranty by GIANT.
    Thanks - just reminded me I wanted to check this out and see what you guys think. The used 05 frame I recently bought had developed play, and the guy had had a bike shop replace the bearings. However, for some reason they didn't replace everything - one of the big pivot/bearing sets came zip tied to the frame, and one old one is obviously still in the bike! This makes me think of two things:
    1) Should I install the remaining new bearing/pivot set anyway?
    2) Is there any way to check that the new bearings installed were of the revised variety? The one that's yet to be installed carries the letters 'NBK - 6902-2RS' on the seal. I could prise open the seal, but that may not be wise?

    Cheers!
    Ben

  60. #60
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    Bingo....

    ..............that's exactly what you've got to do, and the easiest and most accurate way to confirm what's in there.

    Quote Originally Posted by sqwheeler
    . I could prise open the seal, but that may not be wise?

    Cheers!
    Ben
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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    Durn it

    Yup, caged bearings, I guess they all have to come out again!

  62. #62
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    Sorry to hear, good luck with the change out.

    Quote Originally Posted by sqwheeler
    Yup, caged bearings, I guess they all have to come out again!
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  63. #63

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    Seat stay pivot appears ovalized; warranty?

    Once I removed the seat stay pivot bolt the inner race with smashed bearings came out with it. The bolt was not tight, at all. Now that I have read the entirety of this fine thread, Iím wondering if the seat stay pivot has ovalized. I can see that the top of the bolt was pressed into the exterior of the pivot seat. Does this mean that the entire seat has ovalized? I already ordered replacement bearings from Enduro; to know for sure if its ovalized do I need to remove the outer race and attempt to replace with the new bearings? ...if it functions properly is the pivot seat OK, and if it doesn't, does that mean it has ovalized?

    I bought this bike used over a year ago...do you think Giant will warranty the rear triangle if the pivot seat has ovalized?

  64. #64
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    I think that pretty much sums it up, warranty is only to the original purchaser. As to if the seat is ovalized only way to find out is to remove the old bearing copletely.
    Quote Originally Posted by riderup31
    .............I bought this bike used over a year ago...do you think Giant will warranty the rear triangle if the pivot seat has ovalized?
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  65. #65

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    Thanks, Lynx. This afternoon, I went to the local shop mechanic I respect with the rear triangle and he agreed to just try it out...I hope it works!

  66. #66

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    The outer race is still inside the pivot seat, any sugestions on how to get it out?

  67. #67
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    Browse back through this thread, there are a few suggestions as I remember about this - quite a few people suffered this. Just remember lots of patience and if you still have trouble come back and ask or see if your shop will help you out.

    Quote Originally Posted by riderup31
    The outer race is still inside the pivot seat, any sugestions on how to get it out?
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  68. #68

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    thanks Lynx. I took it to a bike shop, I just heard back and they had to cut the race out. They said the pivot seats are good.

    Way to go on starting this thread!

  69. #69
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    Well when you really like something you tend to want to overlook the small imperfections and also try to help people overlook/fix them. Sadly I hope someone else will step up to the job once I "move on" - but I think it's mainly covered as far as the Trance goes now.

    Quote Originally Posted by riderup31
    thanks Lynx. I took it to a bike shop, I just heard back and they had to cut the race out. They said the pivot seats are good.

    Way to go on starting this thread!
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  70. #70

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    bolt torque specs on re assembly

    Two questions. I am ready to put the frame back together after installing the max bearings. First. Is the blue stuff on the bolts anti seeze or lock tite?? Second, how tight should all of the bolts be. If any one sees this, please post and answer or pm me at rbmatl.

    Thank you

  71. #71
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    Read the thread............

    .......................it's all there.
    Quote Originally Posted by RBMATL
    Two questions. I am ready to put the frame back together after installing the max bearings. First. Is the blue stuff on the bolts anti seeze or lock tite?? Second, how tight should all of the bolts be. If any one sees this, please post and answer or pm me at rbmatl.

    Thank you
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  72. #72
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    Failed upper pivot bearing removal tool.

    Hi all this is my first post and I thank all for this informative post which has made my bearing change out so much easier.

    I had the L/H/S upper bearing fail on my Reign 05' and had to overcome the problem of the outer shell being stuck in the triangle. Not wanting to use a screw driver or punch I called around LBS's and got '"never done it" to " $60/hour to grind it out" responses. Also one place said the Giant official "bearing puller kit" was useless in this situation. Interestingly over the phone, Giant denied any problems with Maestro pivot bearings. ( wish I had read this post before the call).

    The solution I found was a "blind hole bearing puller" attachment for a slide hammer. I just happened to have an old home made slide hammer at home which I had made about 15 odd years ago. Basically a heavy weight on a steel rod. I sourced the tool from Autotools in Victoria, Australia. Great service from Mark over the phone.

    Can't attach pic so here is the link.

    http://www.autotools.com.au/catalogu...hp/10/460/1983

    Cost was $62 aussie and it was delivered the next day with express post.

    Great thing is the slightly raised end that goes into the bearing cage fits perfectly into the ball groove. The triangle was mounted in a vice and the jaws lined with old inner tubes. IMO the result was perfect ,a quick even, effortless extraction whilst reducing the chance of damage to me or the triangle.

    Also you could use a socket extention bar or a small rod from the other side of the triangle and tap on the tool directly if you dont have a slide hammer and/or dont want to spend the extra cash.

    The bearing came out so smoothly that if I need to do this job again I will try to do it in situ, to save time and having to pull the triangle off the bike. Might be a 2 man job in situ ?? Probably more chance of damaging the triangle though.

    Hope this info is useful for some...

  73. #73
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    where could i buy an enduro bearing kit? is it something my lbs would have or could somebody give me a link to a place online? its for an 05 trance 4 if it matters.

  74. #74
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    I feel like I post this link every couple of weeks.


    http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id55.html
    zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

  75. #75
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    Thanks for info.

    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx
    Here is the tutorial that I promised I would do for removing and installing new frame bearings for the Trance/Reign. If you have any comments/questions please feel free to post them. Sorry if it isn't as in depth as it could be, but it seemed like it was needed rather now than later and I tried my best at it. I will try to update/re-word it better as time permits and suggestions come in. Also if the images are explanitary enough let me know and I will try for better ones.

    Note you can use either the wong nuts or the plain nuts, but either way you'll eventually end up using a spanner to help finishing tighten the wing nuts as finger strength for all isn't always up to the torque required.

    LyNx

    Attached is the Torque specs for the Reign - would assume they use they same specs as the Trance, but have found no such spec sheet for the Trance to confirm.

    LyNx, thanks for the great tutorial. I took my whole rear apart, regreased, retorqued, treadlocked the treads now no creaking. Where and when should I get these enduro bearings? I have a 06 trance with 200 miles on it. Also, have you seen this file for 05 trance? It's great.

    http://sykkel.no/teknisk/Trance.pdf

  76. #76
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    Sorry for the late reply, I have been enjoying the beauty and riding of CO. The 2006 Trance and on came with the correctly spec'd full compliment bearings and as such you should have no problems with them.
    Thanks for the PDF, neve seen it before.

    FYI in case no one knew, I am no longer a Trance rider I have switched to a Niner RIP9 owing tyo the larger, sweeter wheels and longer TT/size of the XL frame.
    Quote Originally Posted by 2fst4u
    LyNx, thanks for the great tutorial. I took my whole rear apart, regreased, retorqued, treadlocked the treads now no creaking. Where and when should I get these enduro bearings? I have a 06 trance with 200 miles on it. Also, have you seen this file for 05 trance? It's great.

    http://sykkel.no/teknisk/Trance.pdf
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  77. #77
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    Co!

    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx
    Sorry for the late reply, I have been enjoying the beauty and riding of CO. The 2006 Trance and on came with the correctly spec'd full compliment bearings and as such you should have no problems with them.
    Thanks for the PDF, neve seen it before.

    FYI in case no one knew, I am no longer a Trance rider I have switched to a Niner RIP9 owing tyo the larger, sweeter wheels and longer TT/size of the XL frame.
    In CO? thats my back yard bro!! where have you been so far. I'm not going to ask if you liked it because I know you did, the trails and community here are great!!

  78. #78
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    I was in Ft. Collins first and got to ride, BlueSky, Devil's Backbone, Young's Gulch and trails along the damn. Excellent riding for sure, had a fantastic time, the new RIP9 really shone The guys I met and rode with were great, skills way above mine but I picked up the tech stuff fairly fast not wanting to get left to far behind. Definitely will be heading that way in the very near future. Also was in Golden and did some riding out west of there in Golden Gate Park - did Mtn Lion Trail, I believe it was and then went further west past Evergreen and did another trail and Hall's Ranch on the way down from Ft. Collins to Golden..

    Then I went to Leadville, but that was mainly only painful pre-riding the course for the race - couldn't get oxygen to the legs to spin granny and it was a bit steep and loose to push the middle ring. Also went to Laramie to do the Enduro 100k and those trails were loads of fun, will be doing that race for sure in the future.

    Quote Originally Posted by 2fst4u
    In CO? thats my back yard bro!! where have you been so far. I'm not going to ask if you liked it because I know you did, the trails and community here are great!!
    Last edited by LyNx; 08-20-2007 at 09:09 AM.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  79. #79
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    Good

    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx
    I was in Ft. Collins first and got to ride, BlueSky, Devil's Backbone, Young's Gulch and trails along the damn. Excellent riding for sure, had a fantastic time, the new RIP9 really shone The guys I met and rode with were great, skills way above mine but I picked up the tech stuff fairly fast not wanting to get left to far behind. Definitely will be heading that way in the very near future. Also was in Golden and did some riding out west of there in Golden Gate Park - did Mtn Lion Trail, I believe it was and then went further west past Evergreen and did another trail and Hall's Ranch on the way down from Ft. Collins to Golden..

    Then I went to Leadville, but that was mainly only painful pre-riding the course for the race - couldn't get oxygen to the legs to spin granny and it was a bit steep and loose to push the middle ring. Also went to Laramie to do the Enduro 100k and those trails were loads of fun, will be doing that race for sure in the future.

    Gosh, sounds like you were busy, good job on the race and rides!

  80. #80

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    Green Loctite on Bearing seats?

    Great how to!

    Got the bearings on order, going to do the swap next week.

    One question though; On some other bearing replacement instructions I have read from other manufacturers, they say to use green loctite on the bearing seats before pressing them in, not grease? What made you go with grease in this case?

    Thanks,

    Darren

  81. #81
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    I guess for several reasons.......
    1 - my bro who is into cars, mechanics etc told me to use a very little bit of grease
    2 - I found nothing resembling loctite on the outside of the bearing or in the slot.

    Quote Originally Posted by dmac
    Great how to!

    Got the bearings on order, going to do the swap next week.

    One question though; On some other bearing replacement instructions I have read from other manufacturers, they say to use green loctite on the bearing seats before pressing them in, not grease? What made you go with grease in this case?

    Thanks,

    Darren
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  82. #82

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    Quote Originally Posted by dmac
    Great how to!

    Got the bearings on order, going to do the swap next week.

    One question though; On some other bearing replacement instructions I have read from other manufacturers, they say to use green loctite on the bearing seats before pressing them in, not grease? What made you go with grease in this case?

    Thanks,

    Darren
    Interesting, I was about to say you would never want to use Loctite when press fitting bearings, but I guess some mfgf'ers do use it: http://www.santacruz-pl.com/strony/o...pfree_tech.pdf

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    I also saw some from Titus as well... I'm going to go ahead and use the loctite 641 (if I can find it) or go with good old loctite blue.

    The bearing seats are very tight on this frame, so my only reason for going with any loctite at all is to stop any potential bearing movement in the seat and subsiquent creaking.

    I'll update with how it works after it's done.

    Cheers,

    Darren

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    Hi guys, need some help.
    I have a 2005 Trance 4. Im gonna get new bearings for the pivot.
    Can u guys post the Bearing Numbers so i can purchase the right one's, I believe there's 8 of them?

    Thanks a lot
    Last edited by an0nymous; 10-05-2007 at 05:24 AM.

  85. #85
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    Enduro already has the numbers and a kit made up. Check their web site and order a set easy as pie. www.enduroforkseals.com

    Quote Originally Posted by an0nymous
    Hi guys, need some help.
    I have a 2005 Trance 4. Im gonna get new bearings for the pivot.
    Can u guys post the Bearing Numbers so i can purchase the right one's, I believe there's 8 of them?

    Thanks a lot
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  86. #86

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    Hi Lynx
    Yeah ive been to enduroforkseals.com but they dont List the Bearing Numbers in the Trance kit. I will not be able to get the Enduro bearings as delivery fees would be expensive to my country. Im thinking of getting other manufacturers bearings such as NTN bearings that is available here.

    I will place the order thru my LBS for the bearings, so i need the Bearings numbers. I think i should open up the pivots to check the numbers but if u guys can give me the numbers it would be better and after i've confirmed that they are available, only i will strip the bike apart.

    If its convenient could u give me the numbers Lynx? Thanks a bunch.

  87. #87
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    Sorry

    Don't have that info at hand. Curious where you live that the shipping could be that much? I live in the Caribbean and it wasn't a lot to get them to me USPS. Checked your profile, Singapore. As far as I remember reading there was an Enduro dealer their, maybe they would have the kit. Maybe drop Chris an e-mail for the #s

    Quote Originally Posted by an0nymous
    Hi Lynx
    ........................... I will not be able to get the Enduro bearings as delivery fees would be expensive to my country....................
    If its convenient could u give me the numbers Lynx? Thanks a bunch.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  88. #88

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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx
    Don't have that info at hand. Curious where you live that the shipping could be that much? I live in the Caribbean and it wasn't a lot to get them to me USPS. Checked your profile, Singapore. As far as I remember reading there was an Enduro dealer their, maybe they would have the kit. Maybe drop Chris an e-mail for the #s
    Oh? They have a dealer in Singapore? I live above Singapore. If theres one in Singapore then it should be easier for me to get them and cheaper too.

    Will i be able to contact Chris thru [email protected] ?

    Thanks

  89. #89
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    Yup and he should be able to tell you if there' a dealer in Singapore.
    Quote Originally Posted by an0nymous
    Oh? They have a dealer in Singapore? I live above Singapore. If theres one in Singapore then it should be easier for me to get them and cheaper too.

    Will i be able to contact Chris thru [email protected] ?

    Thanks
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  90. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by an0nymous
    Hi guys, need some help.
    I have a 2005 Trance 4. Im gonna get new bearings for the pivot.
    Can u guys post the Bearing Numbers so i can purchase the right one's, I believe there's 8 of them?

    Thanks a lot

    GIANT Reign and Trance Components

    2 - 6900-2RS
    2 - 63800-2RS
    4 - 6902-2RS

  91. #91

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    Hi guys, sorry has been busy with my studies.
    Finally on holidays now and have sent my bike to get the bearings done.
    Thanks Lynx and cracker666 for your help.

  92. #92
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    Just did this on my reign...worked perfectly.

    Just as a bit of advice, if when pressing the bearings back in it feels harder than usual (assuming you've done one), then they're probably going in skew.
    Nearly all mine did this slightly just as I started pressing them in, just fixed the tilt and they went in smoothly.

    Thanks for this guide!


  93. #93
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    Hi LyNx, it is more than year passed when you have changed bearings.
    Have you checked them now? Are they still ok?
    I have Trance 1 2006 year. I have checked my (but not all, only those in chart numbered 5) and it needs to be replaced. I gues with other will be the same thing. They last for me 4000km.
    So I wonder if your enduro bearings are still ok?

  94. #94
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    To be honest, I no longer ride the Trance so I haven't checked the bearings. Up to the last time I checked them they were OK - stopped riding it in June - switched to a Niner RIP9. Really depends on the conditions you ride in I think and what maintenance you do to your bike.

    Quote Originally Posted by Delerium
    Hi LyNx, it is more than year passed when you have changed bearings.
    Have you checked them now? Are they still ok?
    I have Trance 1 2006 year. I have checked my (but not all, only those in chart numbered 5) and it needs to be replaced. I gues with other will be the same thing. They last for me 4000km.
    So I wonder if your enduro bearings are still ok?
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  95. #95
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    And what maintenance I should do?
    They are sealed. So what can you do for them? You can't grease or something.
    How many km you have rode before checking them?

  96. #96
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    Yes you can pop the seals off and check that the grease is still in there and replace it it/top it up if it needs it on any bearing to help it last longer. I learnd my lesson and now before I use new bearings or a bike with them I check them to make sure they are packed full of good grease before I even venture out on it/them

    Quote Originally Posted by Delerium
    And what maintenance I should do?
    They are sealed. So what can you do for them? You can't grease or something.
    How many km you have rode before checking them?
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  97. #97
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    How it comes, that buying INDIVIDUAL "MAX" BEARINGS for Trance is cheaper, than buying complete suspension kit? Where is the trick?

  98. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by Delerium
    How it comes, that buying INDIVIDUAL "MAX" BEARINGS for Trance is cheaper, than buying complete suspension kit? Where is the trick?
    It doesn't seem like a trick to me, but a lot of people don't either have the knowledge or the tools to buy them individually. By simply knowing the bearing model #'s (usually on the seal of the bearing) or the specific sizes (using a micrometer) for each bearing, you can easily order them individually and save a few bucks.

    Cheers,
    EB

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    I also dont have a tool, but there are people, who have. Well, I know only lincage bearings number, but few posts above a man wrote all bearings number.

    GIANT Reign and Trance Components

    2 - 6900-2RS
    2 - 63800-2RS
    4 - 6902-2RS

  100. #100

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    Great tutorial LyNx! Was hoping to put it to the test, but rant into a couple of questions. Hopefully someone is still checking this post...

    Out of curiosity, I called my lbs to check a price on getting the bearings replaced on my '05. Mechanic told me that I'd need some bolts in Giant rebuild kit that are designed for "single use only" and would have to be replaced during the install of new bearings. Can anyone confirm this, or am I getting another sales pitch for Giant's $100+ rebuild kit?

    Lbs mech also mentioned something about replacing bushings as well as bearings. Am I missing something in my suspension somewhere? I thought the pivots all used bearings. Any help is greatly appreciated!

  101. #101
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    OK, to answer your questions............
    1 - Not sure what "bolt(s)" they're talking about, never replaced any because of wear on my Trance. I did manage to snap one of the big bottom pivots bolts and had to use a substitute. It really isn't a bad idea to have some spare/replacement bolts around, just in case, but that's your call. Not sure what bearing Giant offers, but if you only want bearings Enduro does the kit in MAXX Full compliment .

    2 - Yes he isn't $hitting you on the bushings. What he's talking about are the shock bushings, but you should be able to feel play in the frame if they're bad once you have made sure all bearings are good i.e. if you hold the saddle and gently lift the bike you would feel play/movement in the rear of the frame. The Fox bushings are easy to get hold of, but the best option is the BETD Roller Bearing solution. here's a thread I started about it when I had my Trance, and here's the link to a British site (BETD) that offers them up ready to install.

    Hope this helps and glad my tutorial is still of use to some, sadly though I am no longer a Giant rider since they won't embrace the 29er wheel size and build a 29er Trance - would be such a great bike

    Quote Originally Posted by eieio
    Great tutorial LyNx! Was hoping to put it to the test, but rant into a couple of questions. Hopefully someone is still checking this post...

    Out of curiosity, I called my lbs to check a price on getting the bearings replaced on my '05. Mechanic told me that I'd need some bolts in Giant rebuild kit that are designed for "single use only" and would have to be replaced during the install of new bearings. Can anyone confirm this, or am I getting another sales pitch for Giant's $100+ rebuild kit?

    Lbs mech also mentioned something about replacing bushings as well as bearings. Am I missing something in my suspension somewhere? I thought the pivots all used bearings. Any help is greatly appreciated!
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  102. #102

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    Thanx again for the great info! Out of curiosity, where did you get the replacement bolts for the bottom pivot bolts that ended up needing replacement? Local hardware store findable?

    Funny you should mention checking the method of checking the shock bushings... I'm getting the exact play/movement in the frame you described. Really had thought it was the bearings finally biting the dust, but sounds like the shock bushing is my real problem. IWill still do the bearings as they are bound to fail at some point and already ordered a set from Enduro. Looks like I'll be getting some roller bearings from BETD as well...

    I second the 29er Trance. Rode an Intense Spider 29er a while back at a trail demo and loved it!

  103. #103
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    Wink Np

    Actually from a local fastener store, that's the actual name "Fasteners", they stock a wide range of bolts, nuts, washers etc, etc. What it was was the bolt portion of the entire bolt setup - once you take it apart you'll understand - sadly it wasn't an exact replacement, it was a normal socket head bolt so I had to grind down 1/2 of the head so it would work.
    Quote Originally Posted by eieio
    Thanx again for the great info! Out of curiosity, where did you get the replacement bolts for the bottom pivot bolts that ended up needing replacement? Local hardware store findable?

    Funny you should mention checking the method of checking the shock bushings... I'm getting the exact play/movement in the frame you described. Really had thought it was the bearings finally biting the dust, but sounds like the shock bushing is my real problem. IWill still do the bearings as they are bound to fail at some point and already ordered a set from Enduro. Looks like I'll be getting some roller bearings from BETD as well...

    I second the 29er Trance. Rode an Intense Spider 29er a while back at a trail demo and loved it!
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

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    Thanks for the head's up!

  105. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by eieio
    Great tutorial LyNx! Was hoping to put it to the test, but rant into a couple of questions. Hopefully someone is still checking this post...

    Out of curiosity, I called my lbs to check a price on getting the bearings replaced on my '05. Mechanic told me that I'd need some bolts in Giant rebuild kit that are designed for "single use only" and would have to be replaced during the install of new bearings. Can anyone confirm this, or am I getting another sales pitch for Giant's $100+ rebuild kit?

    Lbs mech also mentioned something about replacing bushings as well as bearings. Am I missing something in my suspension somewhere? I thought the pivots all used bearings. Any help is greatly appreciated!
    Just did a bearing job on both my Reign and my son's (both 2005) using the kit from Enduro. One of the seatstay bearings on my son's bike had partially disintegrated so I deceded to do both bikes. Many of the other bearings were feeling pretty rough.

    I had to grind out the race on the partially disintegrated bearing with a Dremel tool, but other than that, everything went pretty smoothly. I reused all the remaining hardware.

    Not quite sure why they would call some of those fasteners "one use". If I take them out to merely clean them, should I replace them at that time as well?

    At any rate, both of us noticed a significant improvement in performance and I'm glad I did the job sooner rather than letting more of them fail.

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    I am just getting set up for this bearing replacment on my Son's bike, I have the following
    2-6900-2RS
    4-6902-2RS
    but the 2-63800-2RS seems to be the beast to find, the number is not a good one with common bearing suppliers. Who is the manufacturer of this bearing, the closest I come is 19 x 10 x 5 which is too narrow. If I had the manufacturer it would be a cinch to get them. Thanks guys!

  107. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by Holeshooter
    I am just getting set up for this bearing replacment on my Son's bike, I have the following
    2-6900-2RS
    4-6902-2RS
    but the 2-63800-2RS seems to be the beast to find, the number is not a good one with common bearing suppliers. Who is the manufacturer of this bearing, the closest I come is 19 x 10 x 5 which is too narrow. If I had the manufacturer it would be a cinch to get them. Thanks guys!
    http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id169.html

  108. #108
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    Reign 1 07

    Hi Guys,

    I was wondering has anyone done this to the Reign 1 07?

    I'm planning to order some bearings from http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id169.html for me reign 1 even if i don't need to change them, it's good to have them at hand when they do get bad, it's just a matter of time i assume.

    I've read the thread and it's a very good post. Great Tutoral, haven't seen anything like it before! great work.

    With the bearings i get from http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id169.html for me reign 1 07 i assume they are all the same kit across the whole reign series? as i dont' see any selection box for year model reign when u order there bearings.

    Thanks for all your help guys.

    Jlam

  109. #109
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    Jlam, yeah bearing sizes haven't changed throughout the Reigns different incarnations, just the frame. The bearing problem was fixed from '07 onwards, but I'd suspect that if you ride your bike hard enough and long enough that you'd also do in the Maxx type bearings the '07 onwards are supposed to have. I know for me it's a real PITA with replacing stuff since I ride about 4k+ miles a year, so that's at least 3 chains, maybe a ring or two, cassette maybe etc. etc. If you ride in really stink conditions this will exacerbate the situation.

  110. #110
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    Thanks for you help once again.

    I was just worried, if there were difference in year models, but there isn't which is good, going to order me bearings today and hope they get shipped to Australia within a few days and hope i can install them next week with u wonderful instructions!

    Jon

  111. #111
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    Just a word to wise: don't wail away trying to hammer bearings out. Most Giant agents worth their salt will have the Giant tools to press the bearings out. Much better to get them to do it than damage your frame.

  112. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jlam
    I was just worried, if there were difference in year models, but there isn't which is good, going to order me bearings today and hope they get shipped to Australia within a few days and hope i can install them next week with u wonderful instructions! Jon
    I assume you are buying from enduroforkseal. I am also in Australia and found that they wouldn't process my order, instead directing me to their local agents (DIY something). The agents had a local (Canberra) retailer listed and I foolishly bought through them, thinking I would save time. It ended taking longer than if I'd bought straight from the distributor, including shipping, and slightly more expensive.

    Tim

  113. #113
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    Haggis is there a way to get hold of this tool? it would be great to do it yourself, then someone elss as u know you actaully put some effort into it

    But then again you dont want to screw up!

  114. #114
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    Wombat, yeah that is where i'm planning to get them from.

    Sounds like a pain to order these bearings, but thanks for the advise, i might get them from enduroforkseal, provided they send them out when they get me order!

  115. #115
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    Follow the Tutorial.......

    .................all the tools you'll need are listed and pretty muc common stuff. You will only need help if the bearings are totally shot and seized in and the race becomes seperated.

    Quote Originally Posted by Jlam
    Haggis is there a way to get hold of this tool? it would be great to do it yourself, then someone elss as u know you actaully put some effort into it

    But then again you dont want to screw up!

  116. #116
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    Just being paranoid

    I was just just concerned thats all......

    Your tutorial was set out in great details, i'll follow the steps and i'm sure i can't go wrong

  117. #117
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    Cant see images...

    for some reason I can't see the images... I'm signed in but it keeps asking to to sign in... are they still there? is there some other place I can see those 2 first images?

  118. #118
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    So glad I found this thread... I am having problems getting the rocker arm off of the seat post tube mount of my trance. Suggestions?

  119. #119
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    Trance

    Quote Originally Posted by gmx
    So glad I found this thread... I am having problems getting the rocker arm off of the seat post tube mount of my trance. Suggestions?
    Did you loosen the middle bolt that holds the rocker arm together? This may be a dumb suggestion but it took me a few seconds to figure it out.

    Or is it frozen on somehow?

  120. #120
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    Thanks! That was it. I went for a ride and was trying to figure out why it wasn't coming off. About half way home the light bulb appeared. Duh!!!!

  121. #121
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    Just got a linkage kit for my DH comp, ive removed all the pivot stuff but Im having trouble getting the bearings out of the frame.
    Thank you so much for your DIY press idea, ill try it out over the weekend.

  122. #122
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    trance 06

    Just did my trance bearing swap with the enduro bearings last weekend-suspension feels silky smooth now. It took about 2 hours. (now that I did it it would only take 30 minutes next time)

    http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id55.html

    All went well with no problems. A few observations that may help-

    1. The sockets I used to knock out the old bearings were not the same as in the pics but worked perfect (they had a lip that fit perfect on the inside of the bearing)

    2. Bearings took a real solid whack to break loose- then they came out with much easier hits. Make sure to hold your hand and socket tool even and square with the bearings while striking it with the hammer-it has to be quick and precise so bearings will come out evenly

    3. To get the new bearings started evenly upon installing- I lightly tapped them in about 2-3 millimeters with the plastic end of an allen wrench, making sure the bearings were perfectly level as I went, From then on I used the washer method to take em in the whole way.
    Last edited by 2fst4u; 07-18-2008 at 05:23 PM.

  123. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by whitey89
    Just got a linkage kit for my DH comp, ive removed all the pivot stuff but Im having trouble getting the bearings out of the frame.
    Thank you so much for your DIY press idea, ill try it out over the weekend.
    i thought some of the ideas may transfer over to your frame.

    G

  124. #124
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    I am having big probs getting my upper right side rear triangle (the really small one) bearing out. I have been whacking it for awhile and am concerned that the bearing seat may be ovalized. Asides from trying to grind it out, any suggestions?

  125. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmx
    I am having big probs getting my upper right side rear triangle (the really small one) bearing out. I have been whacking it for awhile and am concerned that the bearing seat may be ovalized. Asides from trying to grind it out, any suggestions?
    Trying to break the bond between the original bearing and the frame with a hammer can be pretty tough. To reduce the chances of damaging the frame, either a) take it to a Giant dealer who has the Giant toolkit for pressing them out or b) get a friend to hold another hammer on the backside of the bearing which will absorb the hammer blows rather than letting the frame dissipate all the energy...
    Use anti-seize or grease when pressing the new bearings in and you won't have the problem again.

  126. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pitto
    i thought some of the ideas may transfer over to your frame.

    G
    Thats what i thought too. I think they do, but i gave up and got my lbs to do it for me

  127. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haggis
    Trying to break the bond between the original bearing and the frame with a hammer can be pretty tough. To reduce the chances of damaging the frame, either a) take it to a Giant dealer who has the Giant toolkit for pressing them out or b) get a friend to hold another hammer on the backside of the bearing which will absorb the hammer blows rather than letting the frame dissipate all the energy...
    Use anti-seize or grease when pressing the new bearings in and you won't have the problem again.
    Thanks. I got frustrated and ended up taking it to the shop. Pressed the bearings in last night with out problem.

    Is there a washer between the frame and the main linkage pivot(number 5 on the torque chart) and should one of the bearings on the mainlinkage pivot be exposed? I had drwn out where all the spacers were going but became disorganized when some fork oil spilt onto my work space.

  128. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx
    As to the PDFing of this How To, I may well look into doing it in the future.
    Hey you've already done enough work LyNx...here is the pdf if anyone is interested.Bearing Replacement PDF Guide

    Thanks again, I'll be replacing my bearings soon.

  129. #129
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    First off, I want to say thanks for those who have posted advice and photos; it made the job easier.

    I was motivated to replace the bearings when I got a creak under load that was not cured by a bottom bracket replacement. I also was a bit worried after hearing about the disintegrating upper bearings that many folks were suffering from.

    Ironically, I think I discovered the source of the creak when I had the rear triangle off. When I was working on it, I pushed on the rear derailleur and hanger and got the same noise. From what I can tell, the creak was coming from the hanger/frame interface, so I disassembled and greased the area.

    My upper linkage bearings were toast, and the lower linkage bearings were getting there. The four large (main) bearings seemed to be ok, but I replaced them anyway, since I purchased the Enduro kit.

    Here are my photos, with a few comments about the procedure:

    1. Bike looks like it was cut clean in half
    2. Moral support
    3. I drilled a series of different sized holes in a 2x6 piece of aged redwood, in order to have a place to push the old bearings. Clamps helped to hold things steady
    4. Pushing in the lower linkage bearing with the threaded rod. All bearings were externally greased to help them slide into place.
    5. A 16mm socket helped to completely seat the bearing, since it sits lower than the outside of the linkage
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Diesel~; 11-02-2008 at 09:51 AM.

  130. #130
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    6. I added a handle to the end of the threaded rod, to help keep it from spinning.
    7. A shim stack helped to support the lower linkage
    8. An extension was used to push out the bearing
    9. Note the 20mm socket on the left.
    10. This helped to keep the threaded rod centered in the opposite hole and also helped the bearing to go in straight
    Attached Images Attached Images

  131. #131
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    11. One of the linkage bearings was did not want to come out. I soaked it in WD-40, and it still required an inordinate amount of force to knock it loose. I was worried that the rear triangle would be damaged or the inner race would be knocked out. It FINALLY came out, but it was difficult.

    12. The entire setup kept shifting on me. Blue painter's tape protected the paint, and the 2x6 was angled via shims to best support the rear triangle. And yes, shop rags are where you find them.

    13. Pressing the bearings back in.

    14. Again, a socket was used in the opposing hole, to keep the rod straight.

    15. All pivot bolts were liberally greased, except for the threads. Threads got blue threalocker and were torqued to the previously posted specs.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  132. #132
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    I'm sure glad that this tutorial is still being of use and used by many, makes the effort involved in putting it together worth while. Now if only Giant would produce their own 29er
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  133. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx
    I'm sure glad that this tutorial is still being of use and used by many, makes the effort involved in putting it together worth while. Now if only Giant would produce their own 29er
    For sure! Thanks for getting the ball rolling. This thing is racking up quite a view count!

  134. #134
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    Good work bro-doesn't it feel good to get this done? It helped me to sleep better at night knowing my pivots were pimped with enduros.

  135. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2fst4u
    Good work bro-doesn't it feel good to get this done? It helped me to sleep better at night knowing my pivots were pimped with enduros.
    It sure does, especially considering how trashed the upper pivot bearing were!

  136. #136
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    just got a set of bearing $52.00 AUS for the lot. at that price, cheap enough to do each season. i will be swapping mine out over xmas.

  137. #137
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    Bearing are cool

    Quote Originally Posted by Pitto
    just got a set of bearing $52.00 AUS for the lot. at that price, cheap enough to do each season. i will be swapping mine out over xmas.
    Good job bro-you won't regret it. Upon inspecting my old bearings after replacement most of them didn't even spin!!! The new ones feel much better and will last way longer!!

    Make sure bearings are perfectly square with the opening before cranking in place. I actually tapped mine in about a 16th of an inch with a plastic handled t-hex wrench which acted like a mini hammer-once the bearing was started in the hole I then cranked it in with the washer bolt method.

    I'm american but was in Australia for an extended stay in 2000-I loved every minute of being there!! beautiful country!!

  138. #138
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    FYI - the 63800 2rs is also known as a 6800B 2rs

  139. #139
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    A couple of years ago I bought the complete Giant pivot rebuild kit that inlcuded all bearings, spacers, and bolts (I overtightened and busted the top off one of the black caps but I've used it on many occasions to replace damaged bearings).

    Anyway, there was a diagram that showed the exploded view of how it all goes together. It works for all three Meastro frames I've owned. It is a little hard to read, but does anyone think it is of value. Its helped me when I took EVERYTHING apart at once (for the first time or two, anyway).

    Should I post it in this thread? I only ask as it is VERY hard to understand.

  140. #140
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    I would like to get it if you can post it!

  141. #141
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    one of the most frustrating jobs you can do.

    very painfull, the small bearings in the seatstay are a deadset pain in the A%^ to get out.

    if you can, take the bits to the LBS and get them to press them out.

    the jobs done, but i wasnt happy with it. i have marked the frame in a few areas.

  142. #142
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    Did cha follow the tutorial? Got to ask, as I can't says as I had any real troubles when I did it other than never, ever doing anything like this before and I got by fine without neary a scratch etc. Well at least you got them changed and can chill and relax knowing you've got it done.

    Quote Originally Posted by Pitto
    one of the most frustrating jobs you can do.

    very painfull, the small bearings in the seatstay are a deadset pain in the A%^ to get out.

    if you can, take the bits to the LBS and get them to press them out.

    the jobs done, but i wasnt happy with it. i have marked the frame in a few areas.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  143. #143
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    yeah, followed it, and the hints.

    i just found the smaller 63800 bearings a pain to get out. i ended up making a tool out of a 19mm ring spanner that had angles to accomodate the slope of the frame.

    i should have taken the time to tape up certain areas. that was my mistake.

    the threaded rod works great though.

  144. #144

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    Very helpful, thank you for sharing LYNX. You're the man!

  145. #145
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    Im not gonna lie guys but this was pretty easy. Took me probably no more than 20mins.

    But than again it helps to have one of these.

    2006 Turner 5 Spot
    2007 Trek 2100 ZR

  146. #146
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    Wink

    You're wlecome and to all who use it Truly amazes me it's still of so much help now even 2+ years after I made it, guess that shows what a great bike the Trance is Now all they have to do is make a 29er version and I'll be back

    Quote Originally Posted by stages_2112
    Very helpful, thank you for sharing LYNX. You're the man!
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  147. #147

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    Quote Originally Posted by Delerium
    I also dont have a tool, but there are people, who have. Well, I know only lincage bearings number, but few posts above a man wrote all bearings number.

    GIANT Reign and Trance Components

    2 - 6900-2RS
    2 - 63800-2RS
    4 - 6902-2RS

    If anyone is looking to replace the seat tube's top 2 bearings (listed here as 63800) you may have better luck looking for:

    6800 2RS 10mm inside diameter, 19 outside and 7width. I get them for $4 Canadian. An interesting note, they were labeled as l-1910rs for the OEM ones. But they are all the same. I found that the MAX style bearing do not handle axial loads at all, so they may not be the best for this application. Just replace once a year and you're fine with full cages. Plus they handle the pressing/ejection process much better.

  148. #148
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    LOCTITE Question

    I'm new to using loctite and notice that in the Giant Torque Settings schematic LyNx posted above (great job LyNx) that the spec says:

    "All bolts should be cleaned and re-set using LocTite Primer (#243). (underlining is my own)

    In researching loctite products online, I notice that there are products referred to as "loctite primers" (specifically 7471 and 7649) that appear to be real primers in the sense that they help clean and prepare the base materials being fastened and then also accelerate the curing of the subsequent loctitite sealer which is subsequently applied.

    My question is, LyNx et al, do you think the Giant tech doc is recommending the use of a primer (such as 7471 or 7649) before applying the sealant (243) or am I reading too much into it? Does anyone use a primer before applying loctite to their parts?...that sounded a little dirty

    Thanks!

  149. #149

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    Quote Originally Posted by Forged
    I'm new to using loctite and notice that in the Giant Torque Settings schematic LyNx posted above (great job LyNx) that the spec says:

    "All bolts should be cleaned and re-set using LocTite Primer (#243). (underlining is my own)

    In researching loctite products online, I notice that there are products referred to as "loctite primers" (specifically 7471 and 7649) that appear to be real primers in the sense that they help clean and prepare the base materials being fastened and then also accelerate the curing of the subsequent loctitite sealer which is subsequently applied.

    My question is, LyNx et al, do you think the Giant tech doc is recommending the use of a primer (such as 7471 or 7649) before applying the sealant (243) or am I reading too much into it? Does anyone use a primer before applying loctite to their parts?...that sounded a little dirty

    Thanks!

    The primers are for porous substrates. The best clue for what to use is the existing color on the bolt. It should have nice and vibrant blue loctite on there. Clean the threads, don't grease, apply the loctite and screw in to appropriate torque.

  150. #150
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    Yeah as Halifax said, just clean off the threads with some alcohol on a clean cloth and then use the blue loctite and torque away.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  151. #151

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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx
    Yeah as Halifax said, just clean off the threads with some alcohol on a clean cloth and then use the blue loctite and torque away.

    By the way, if anyone has a bearing that self destructs and is left with only a pressed in outer race that seems impossible to remove ...

    I put my rear sub frame in my freezer, let it sit for a beer or two, the pried it out with a flat blade screwdriver. You can also use a can of compressed air (dust-off or similar product) and spray the inside of the race with the can upside down so the liquid evaporates of the race and causes it to ice over. A few sprays and you should see the gaps between the race and the aluminum frame.

  152. #152
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    Cool-blue Rhythm

    Good tip You can also try heating the frame first with a hair dryer and then do the compressed air on the bearing if it really is giving trouble.

    Quote Originally Posted by HalfiaxMTB
    By the way, if anyone has a bearing that self destructs and is left with only a pressed in outer race that seems impossible to remove ...

    I put my rear sub frame in my freezer, let it sit for a beer or two, the pried it out with a flat blade screwdriver. You can also use a can of compressed air (dust-off or similar product) and spray the inside of the race with the can upside down so the liquid evaporates of the race and causes it to ice over. A few sprays and you should see the gaps between the race and the aluminum frame.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  153. #153
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    Thanks Halifax and LyNx for the tips on using loctite and removing stuck races. I like the freezer and compressed air ideas and am glad to hear they work well in case I find myself in that position. In fact, it might make sense to simply remove the bearings in the first place using some prior freezing and then doing the same for installation. May make the whole job easier and reduce the likelihood of ovalizing the seating surfaces. Its possible that this how Giant installs the bearings in the first place - I here their frames have quite the bearing interference fit.

  154. #154
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    I always put my headset cups in the freezer before installing them for this very reason
    Quote Originally Posted by Forged
    Thanks Halifax and LyNx for the tips on using loctite and removing stuck races. I like the freezer and compressed air ideas and am glad to hear they work well in case I find myself in that position. In fact, it might make sense to simply remove the bearings in the first place using some prior freezing and then doing the same for installation. May make the whole job easier and reduce the likelihood of ovalizing the seating surfaces. Its possible that this how Giant installs the bearings in the first place - I here their frames have quite the bearing interference fit.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  155. #155
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    Quote Originally Posted by HalfiaxMTB
    By the way, if anyone has a bearing that self destructs and is left with only a pressed in outer race that seems impossible to remove ...

    I put my rear sub frame in my freezer, let it sit for a beer or two, the pried it out with a flat blade screwdriver.
    I'm surprised this worked - based on the Coefficients of Thermal Expansion of the metals involved (AL alloy frame and alloy steel bearing race), freezing the assembly should have tightened the interference fit, not loosened it. (AL alloys have higher COE than steel alloys - see http://www.lucas-milhaupt.com/htmdoc...omp_chart.html)

    The compressed air trick should work since you can spray the cold air directly on the race, as opposed to on the frame around the race.

  156. #156
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    Anyone know if you can buy the bearing tool kit from Giant? I am about to do this and would rather spend the money (dependent on price) to get the kit and do it with the right tools.

  157. #157
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeguy0
    Anyone know if you can buy the bearing tool kit from Giant? I am about to do this and would rather spend the money (dependent on price) to get the kit and do it with the right tools.
    Yep, any Giant dealer should be able to get you a set. Not cheap however...

    http://www.giant-bicycles.com/EN-GB/...ies/935/25567/


  158. #158
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    Is that a stained, wooden box? Will it glow when you open it, like the case in Pulp Fiction?

  159. #159
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    Maybe, just ordered from a local Giant Dealer. We will see how it goes. The cost was just as much as paying the labor for someone to do it. Might as well have the tool myself as my guess is I may be able to use it on other bikes bearings as well.

  160. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeguy0
    Maybe, just ordered from a local Giant Dealer. We will see how it goes. The cost was just as much as paying the labor for someone to do it. Might as well have the tool myself as my guess is I may be able to use it on other bikes bearings as well.
    How much did it cost you, out of interest?

  161. #161
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haggis
    How much did it cost you, out of interest?
    $120. No MSRP so they marked it up $20 bucks I think. The 2008 forward requires an additional $25 adapter for it to fit the bearings on those frames.

  162. #162
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    Does anyone know the bearing numbers for the 2008+ Trance x?

  163. #163
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    Check the enduro bearings website. I believe they show them there. Btw, I did not need any additional part for the 2008+ bearing change out. Love the bearing tool kit, makes it so easy to change them out.

  164. #164
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    I have a 2008 Trance 1 with only a few months of riding on it - - is this bearing kit something i should consider doing now before my stock bearings wear out?

  165. #165
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    depends on you and your bike when you should replace the bearings.

    how much you ride, how hard, what conditions, etc?

    a couple good ways to tell are to:

    first to hold the bike upright by the rear tire and gently try to lift the bike any by the rear seat, keeping an eye on the linkages for any free-play/movement.

    the second way would be remove the upper shock bolt and cycle the suspension thru it's travel keeping and eye and ear out for any unusual gritty grindy sounds and freeplay in the pivots.

  166. #166
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    Thanks for the tutorial. Just used this to replace the bearings in my ReignX.....good stuff.
    \m/ (>.<) \m/
    For Sale: Revox ISX 10.5x3.5

  167. #167
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    I'm going to be changing out the bearings on my Trance using the excellent tutorial above.

    I'm in the UK and I'm struggling to find 7mm threaded rod (or even long 7mm bolts.) Any suggestions on where I might get this or what I could use instead?

  168. #168
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    I just used a nut and bolt with some washers same idea as above but to I had in the shed.
    all went together very easy.

  169. #169
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    Thanks Lynx and all contributors to this thread! I'm following these directions to replace bearings in my 2007 Anthem... those bearings were really stuck in there well.

    While I anticipate being able to use all my old bolts in re-assembly, its clear that a few of them are getting worn, and they seem proprietary. Has anyone sourced a way to order bolts from Giant without the bearings?

  170. #170
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    You should be able to match any of the bolts up at the local hardware store, don't worry about the actual rods on the lower rockers they tend to last, it's the actual bolts that go in them that tend to break. Sorry, was years ago I sourced mine so can't tell the pitch/size.
    Quote Originally Posted by rfxc
    Thanks Lynx and all contributors to this thread! I'm following these directions to replace bearings in my 2007 Anthem... those bearings were really stuck in there well.

    While I anticipate being able to use all my old bolts in re-assembly, its clear that a few of them are getting worn, and they seem proprietary. Has anyone sourced a way to order bolts from Giant without the bearings?
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
    You're doing mtbr wrong, you're supposed to get increasingly offended by the implications that you're doing ANYTHING wrong.

  171. #171
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    Great tutorial. Followed it today and everything seems to have worked out well.

  172. #172
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    I bought Enduro Max bearings to replace for the old original ones in my 06 Trance. It was necessary because the old bearings was motionless.
    After replace the mid-size bearings with Enduros I noticed that the movement is not so "clear". There is not any sound, gritty or grindy, but they are not in free play, just like something strange inside. Before installing the bearings was ok. I put the bearings like the tutorial, with correct washers, preventing ovalazing, etc, etc. I really don't know what happened and I'm afraid if I need to change these bearings for another new ones. Any ideas of what happened will be consider.
    Thanks!

  173. #173
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    same thing happened to mine. I continued on and they felt amazing when all buttoned up. Could just be the compression force are making it harder to spin, they should eventually break in after some use.

  174. #174
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    Yep, press fit does cause the light notchy feel, even from new, which is why notchiness isn't reason to change a bearing... (Look for any play at the inner race to determine wear). Make sure you pack the new bearings with extra grease - it extends their life hugely.

  175. #175
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    After a lot of spin with the bearings in my hand I've noticed that they spin much more free. Maybe the caps or grease was causing less movement inside the bearings. But I agree with your coments to. The press fit problem afect the bearings. I remember when my old bearings was inside the frame parts they don't move, but, after take it off they move a little better free. These forces are very, very strong and this is a problem with this frames.

  176. #176
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    Bad news....I finished the installation of the frame bearings and all the bearings are making noise! What @ f$c%!! I've done all the things like the tutorial but I imagine that the frame is, definitely, too tight for the bearings. And if I try to put they out I need to buy new ones...the hammer forces will damage the bearings.

  177. #177
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    How does the suspension action feel (without the shock attached)? Smooth I bet. As long as there's no play you good to go.

  178. #178
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    Anyone have this in PDF format? The link for this in PDF doesn't work.

  179. #179
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    Quote Originally Posted by HalfiaxMTB
    By the way, if anyone has a bearing that self destructs and is left with only a pressed in outer race that seems impossible to remove ...

    I put my rear sub frame in my freezer, let it sit for a beer or two, the pried it out with a flat blade screwdriver. You can also use a can of compressed air (dust-off or similar product) and spray the inside of the race with the can upside down so the liquid evaporates of the race and causes it to ice over. A few sprays and you should see the gaps between the race and the aluminum frame.

    I had this happen on the Rocker assembly. Ticked me off as all other bearings came out and went in perfect except this one. The Rocker assembly has a lip on the back side making it pretty difficult to get it out.. Will try the freezer..

    Rear


    other than that all was OK...

  180. #180
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    Got it out after messing with it more and getting neighbors help... No More Squeak!

  181. #181
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    I'm having a doubt and this threads seems a proper place to ask such question. I've got an Anthem. Suspension design is pretty similar to the Trance. Today i performed the shock maintenance and when re-assembling things one doubt arised.

    Do you guys all thighten the suspension pivots with a torque wrench or some of you just go by "feel"? I'm asking this cause I don't yet have a torque wrench, so i was forced to go by feel (+/- the force it was required to disassemble the shock). Things seem to be working nice and indeed i never had a problem not using a torque wrench but then... I'm dealing with bearing now, a bit different from the usual bolt...

  182. #182
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    To press in your new Enduro Bearings you will need the two different size threaded rods - the closer you can get the size of the rod to the actual ID of the bearing the easier it will be to keep the bearing going in straight. .
    .[/B]
    I replaced Rocker bearings today and LyNx is quite right, it's a pain to do the job with smaller bolts, the bearing does not want to go straight.
    I was fighting it for a while till I realised that the ID of the bearings is the same as the diameter of the rear axle. I had a broken axle lying around, and the washers and the nuts used in the hub are quite a reasonable fit too, so it was much easier to press the bearings.
    Hope this idea may be of use.

    And many thanks to LyNx for the how-to, much appreciated

  183. #183
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    Get a torque wrench

    Quote Originally Posted by BustedBearing View Post
    I'm having a doubt and this threads seems a proper place to ask such question. I've got an Anthem. Suspension design is pretty similar to the Trance. Today i performed the shock maintenance and when re-assembling things one doubt arised.

    Do you guys all thighten the suspension pivots with a torque wrench or some of you just go by "feel"? I'm asking this cause I don't yet have a torque wrench, so i was forced to go by feel (+/- the force it was required to disassemble the shock). Things seem to be working nice and indeed i never had a problem not using a torque wrench but then... I'm dealing with bearing now, a bit different from the usual bolt...
    You can find them pretty cheap. It would be a shame to do all that work, then screw it up with the wrong torque. If you're doing your own bearing replacemet, you probably do a bunch of other work on your bike, for which you can use the wrench also.

  184. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by swoodbrn View Post
    You can find them pretty cheap. It would be a shame to do all that work, then screw it up with the wrong torque. If you're doing your own bearing replacemet, you probably do a bunch of other work on your bike, for which you can use the wrench also.
    I know that "cheap" definitions vary. But the cheapest wrenches that I have found that inspire some confidence (and have the usable torque span) are around 50Ä. That's not cheap for a wrench...

  185. #185
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    I come back here and browse just to see if it's strill being used and have to smile that 5 years nealy down the road and people are strill using and referencing this guide, glad it helped out

    Quote Originally Posted by nampla View Post
    I replaced Rocker bearings today and LyNx is quite right, it's a pain to do the job with smaller bolts, the bearing does not want to go straight.
    I was fighting it for a while till I realised that the ID of the bearings is the same as the diameter of the rear axle. I had a broken axle lying around, and the washers and the nuts used in the hub are quite a reasonable fit too, so it was much easier to press the bearings.
    Hope this idea may be of use.

    And many thanks to LyNx for the how-to, much appreciated
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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  186. #186
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    Yep, press fit does cause the light notchy feel, even from new, which is why notchiness isn't reason to change a bearing...
    I disconnected my rear shock to work on my 09 Trance X2 and I noticed the main pivot bearing has this "notchy" feel to it, no doubt because the bearing does not spin and flat spots the bearings and/or bearing race. There is no noticeable play in the swingarm or any of the pivot points. I don't really notice anything when I'm riding.
    I'm wondering if it's worth buying the Enduro kit at this stage of the game.

  187. #187
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    I would highly recommend anyone looking to do a bearing replacement on any Giant FS frame to get the Giant Bearing replacement tool. I was able to get mine for $70 shipped from Bobs Bicycles in Boise, Idaho. Even though it was design for frames up to the 2008 year, I heard can be used in newer frames as well. Have used it a couple of times in 2 Anthem frames (2008 Aluxx and 2007 Carbon) and it is prettty easy with it!!

    IMG Jamis Sixfifty B2
    Gone, but not forgotten:GT LTS-3, GT Zascar Expert Carbon, Look 986, Giant Anthem Advanced

  188. #188
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    +1 for Bob's. Those guys are great.

  189. #189
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    I have a 2009 Giant Trance X0 and I wanted to add a note about spacer or washer placement in the lower rear shock mount. This had me stumped for a while. There are two sets of spacers.

    Set number 1. This is the larger set, black, plastic. This set of spacers is placed between the lower shock arm and the lower rear triangle.

    Set number 2. This is the smaller set, gold(ish), aluminum. This set of spacers is placed between the frame and the lower rear triangle separating the two bearings. You may not even see this set if they stay in place...mine didn't. To put this second set back in you can simply rotate the lower rear triangle up and clear of the frame and then gently hold the spacers in place against the inside of the lower rear triangle and rotate the lower rear triangle back down into the frame.

  190. #190
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slayer45 View Post
    I have a 2009 Giant Trance X0 and I wanted to add a note about spacer or washer placement in the lower rear shock mount. This had me stumped for a while. There are two sets of spacers.

    Set number 1. This is the larger set, black, plastic. This set of spacers is placed between the lower shock arm and the lower rear triangle.

    Set number 2. This is the smaller set, gold(ish), aluminum. This set of spacers is placed between the frame and the lower rear triangle separating the two bearings. You may not even see this set if they stay in place...mine didn't. To put this second set back in you can simply rotate the lower rear triangle up and clear of the frame and then gently hold the spacers in place against the inside of the lower rear triangle and rotate the lower rear triangle back down into the frame.
    Got pics? Couldn't really follow from your description...

  191. #191
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    Hy
    Where I can finde to buy, lower shock bearing for trance x3 2009...
    thx..
    is there any problem if i stil continue driving with small shift...

  192. #192
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    Quote Originally Posted by sazaks View Post
    Does anyone know the bearing numbers for the 2008+ Trance x?
    6900-2RS (4 pcs.)
    6902-2RS (2 pcs.)
    6802-2RS (4 pcs.)

  193. #193
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    Outer Race Stuck

    Ok, so I have started the job of replacing my bearings in my 2005 Giant Reign and have got an outer race stuck in one of the small top rear triangle positions. I don't have a big enough freezer to put my rear triangle into as suggested below. Has anyone solved the problem of removing a stuck outer race? Are there any tools I should look to buy to help me extract it? How would a bike shop do it, as I guess this isn't an uncommon occurrence.

    Thanks in advance,
    Ian
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Trance Bearing replacement How To.-img_0637.jpg  


  194. #194
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    does anyone know where to get the aluminun bushings on the shock mount?..there is an slight play, tightening the bolt doesnt help...thanks

  195. #195
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    Quote Originally Posted by amats View Post
    does anyone know where to get the aluminun bushings on the shock mount?..there is an slight play, tightening the bolt doesnt help...thanks
    Needle bearing kit from Enduro Seals.

  196. #196
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    a dremel tool and some patience will do
    20 Mach 4 SL
    19 Endurace CF SLX

  197. #197
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    Quote Originally Posted by mecamero View Post
    Ok, so I have started the job of replacing my bearings in my 2005 Giant Reign and have got an outer race stuck in one of the small top rear triangle positions. I don't have a big enough freezer to put my rear triangle into as suggested below. Has anyone solved the problem of removing a stuck outer race? Are there any tools I should look to buy to help me extract it? How would a bike shop do it, as I guess this isn't an uncommon occurrence.

    Thanks in advance,
    Ian
    Holy crap. Did you solve this? That would suck.

    Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk

  198. #198
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    I have a 2008 Trance 1. Is this bearing replacement something that would benefit a bike that seems to be working well - or is this more of a process that should be used when issues arise? Also, is this something that a local giant dealer should be able to do or solely a DIY type process?

  199. #199
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    found this : eBay - bearing press

    i contacted the seller and he assures me this will work for all 3 sizes of bearings for the 08-12 frames. it's not as nice as the giant press but the price is decent and from the video it looks like it will work well for anyone not comfortable using sockets, etc. may have to pick one up and give it a try.

  200. #200
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    Thanks!!

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