Stuck lower/chainstay pivot bolt // 2017 Trance 2- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Stuck lower/chainstay pivot bolt // 2017 Trance 2

    Hey guys, wondering if anyone else had this problem, and if they found a solution.

    I have a stuck lower pivot bolt - the one that connects the chainstay to the lower yoke, right behind the bottom bracket.

    It requires an 8mm hex, and has wrench flats on a nut on the same side. This design is different than the other pivot bolts on this frame, and frankly has me a little stumped. I have never seen a bolt design like this, with both fastening points on the same side. I assume that the bolt part goes all the way through, with a carriage type end on the drive side, and that the nut is pressed directly against the part? Makes sense in theory, so to allow bike service without removing crankset... But the whole thing is seized and SUPER tight.

    I've removed the rear assembly, and tried removing on my workbench, to get better purchase on the wrench flats, with no luck. When trying to turn the nut or the 8mm hex independent of each other, the whole thing spins in the frame with much effort - much more than the 15nm torque specified. Do these ever self-tighten?

    I've even tried using my impact wrench on this thing - no dice.

    I am at a loss. The bearing itself feels crunchy and probably needs replacement, which is why I am removing in the first place.

    Thanks for any help!

    Edit - not sure why the picture posted 90* off...

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Stuck lower/chainstay pivot bolt // 2017 Trance 2-20191020_093151.jpg  


  2. #2
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    There's not much to it. Try to fix the allen key onto a vice and use long wrench or exension so you get better leverage.
    Make sure you're turning it in the correct direction (you should turn the nut counter clockwise or alternatively, hex clockwise!).

  3. #3
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    I got it - took a little more frustration and swearing, but the nut finally loosened. I wish this pivot was a regular bolt/nut to make getting leverage a little easier. Torquing this is pretty tricky too - my torque wrench doesn't work backwards so I had to do it by feel. Does someone make a socket that is meant to fit this type of nut, round on all sides but two? I feel like Giant kinda fudged the design on this pivot, especially considering that this is arguably the bearing most likely to fail/need service.

  4. #4
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    Torque using a hex bit rather than the nut.

    Granted I haven’t pulled any pivot bolts on a post 2013 giant yet, but this should be a through bolt so you can torque from either side. It also shouldn’t matter which side it should be “righty tighty” or “lefty loosey” on either side.

    The nut part is a recent thing, pre about 2012 all the pivot bearings were exposed (not covered or sealed) and were only hex.

    Make sure you grease the back of the nut flanges before you reinstall bolt. It’s not uncommon for the steel/aluminium interface to corrode and cease bolts. I assume this bolt ceased because it is aluminium and was over torqued against the steel bearing race.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bluman8 View Post
    Torque using a hex bit rather than the nut.

    Granted I haven’t pulled any pivot bolts on a post 2013 giant yet, but this should be a through bolt so you can torque from either side. It also shouldn’t matter which side it should be “righty tighty” or “lefty loosey” on either side.

    The nut part is a recent thing, pre about 2012 all the pivot bearings were exposed (not covered or sealed) and were only hex.

    Make sure you grease the back of the nut flanges before you reinstall bolt. It’s not uncommon for the steel/aluminium interface to corrode and cease bolts. I assume this bolt ceased because it is aluminium and was over torqued against the steel bearing race.
    It is a through bolt, but the side with the hex inset is on the same side as the nut, so, from that side, turning "righty tighty" is loosening. I don't really like that tightening the hex bolt is forcing a part that I am tightening to rotate against the frame on the opposite side - same as tightening a standard bolt/but from the bolt head side. Not the end of the world, but not the best way to accurately tighten this.

    It is a hollow bolt, so if I had a much longer hex I could do it from the opposite side, but the hollow is narrow enough that the base of my hex socket doesn't fit, so I cant use a standard extension - gonna need a longer hex socket. This bolt is unique on this bike - all the rest are either standard bolt/nut assemblies, or a bolt threading directly into frame material. I think they did this so that it can be adjusted/torqued with the crank in place. I would definitely rather a standard bolt/nut assembly though, because then I could properly torque it with what I have on hand. Weird way to find out that my torque wrench doesn't work backwards though, haha.

    Thanks for the help!

  6. #6
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    I've never had an issue with these and I've had multiple giant's. This bolt is not exact torque sensitive so I just use my finely calibrated, 2 beer natural torque wrench. Put a small film of locktite on the bolt, tighten until it's good-n-tight and verify that there is no resistance to the bearing/pivot and you are good to go.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by minimusprime View Post
    I just use my finely calibrated, 2 beer natural torque wrench. Put a small film of locktite on the bolt, tighten until it's good-n-tight and verify that there is no resistance to the bearing/pivot and you are good to go.
    Pretty much exactly what I did! Thanks for confirming my method!

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