Got my new 2011 Reign 2 in!- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Got my new 2011 Reign 2 in!

    Picked it up today. Only rode it around the street a little so far, but I love it. I'm coming off a 2008 Specialized FSR XC Comp that was stock except for a Maniou R7 fork, which I reall liked. I was worried that tight turns may be awkward considering the slacker HTA, inch higher BB, and inch longer wheel base. Just turning tight on the street actually feels as good as the Specialized. I weighed the Specialized before trading it in and it was 28.4 pounds with no pedals on a bathroom scale. The Giant weighed 30.4 on the same scale with the cheap plastic pedals on it. So its only about 1.75 pounds heavier. Not much considering how much beefier its made. I did have the fork changed out for a RS Revelation RLT Ti dual air with a 20mm axle. The front wheel had to be changed out as well. It is a Mavic EX 325 disc rim with a no name front hub. Spins smooth as hell though. The guy at the bike shop said it was a Formula hub though.

    The brakes suck. Plain and simple. I think they are going to be the first thing I upgrade. I may even upgrade the rear brake (probably Hope brake) within a week or two from now. We dont have long decents so I usually use my rear brake the most. The two levers feel different in the amount of pull it takes to make the pads contact the rotor. If I dont change the brake out, then I'll tell the bike shop in a few weeks when I take it in for a check and see if they can try bleeding the rear brake.

    I'm also not crazy about the shifters. I'm use to the Shimanos on the Specialized where I can use my thumb for one of the shift levers and my index for the other. On the Sram shifers, you have to use your thumb for both. Not saying the shifters are bad, as this is more of a personal prefference thing.

    Tomorrow is the real test. Taking it to my local trail which has everything from flat easy stuff, to really technical trails and a IMBA epic ride. They also have a freeride area so I'll be trying some drops and jumps. Nothing too big though. Santos for anyone that knows the trail system.

    Edit: The Rock Shox fork has absolutely no stichion, unlike the Fox fork that was on the Trance I test rode and the Fox fork on the Stumpjumper they had. This one is perfectly smooth.



    Last edited by dkbikes4life; 01-08-2011 at 10:25 PM.

  2. #2
    2010 Glory custom FR
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    It's one the nicest bikes in Giant 2011 range. I hope these brakes are strong enough for some DH side of AM ride
    I will try to get my GF on Reign 2 this year

    Edit: ok.... didn't read your post carefully So, the brakes are hopeless? :|
    pozdro
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  3. #3
    igz
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    Hi,

    Congrats on your purchase, I'm sure you made a right choice. I had Reign X1 2009 and once I tried Reign 1 2011 i sold my RX1 immediately. Reign 2011 felt like nothing I had before.

    I can't wait 'til you give us some feedback when you come back from testing it. Also, how do you like Maestro? Is it better than FSR?

    Also, since I'm planing to buy new bike but can't decide between R1 and RX1 because I think I need a bike for something in between, was considering Enduro but I really like Maestro, what, for instance, would be the limit height for drops on Reigns? 3... 4 feet?

    Cheers

  4. #4
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    Nice Dude! Sweet looking Reign. Loving the white.

    Hopefully after your trail rippin the brakes will wear in a bit and grab better. I had that issue with my Juicy 7s back when I first got them.

  5. #5
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    ... and if we just ... Giant Reign 2 2011

    Hi Frango,
    I have also recently bought a Giant Reign 2 2011 and once the brakes wear in they are pretty good for a entry level brake.I have only got one problem with them and that is they are quite a dusty brake due to the resin pads.

    BCU000

  6. #6
    2010 Glory custom FR
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    BCU000, thx for feedback.
    pozdro
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  7. #7
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    Alright, got about 15 miles in today including some red trails (expert) and drops.

    The Bad

    First off, the brake lever feel did equal out. They both take exactly the same amount of pull till they engage. However, they still dont work very good. The lever feels nicer than the Hayes Stroker Ryde's that were on my Specialized, but the Hayes worked better. And I even moved the levers inside of the shifters so I was grabbing the very end of the lever for the most leverage. There were a few scary moments comming downhill going into a tight turn. I really would not used these for anything remotely considered downhill. However they are not my biggest complaint anymore on the bike.

    My biggest complaint is chainslap. Big time. Any kinda small drop or hard hit and you could hear the chain slap around and the chain dropped numerous times from the middle ring to the granny ring. I think the first thing I'm going to do to the bike is a 1 X 10 conversion. Here in Florida I never need the granny ring. I put over 500 miles on my Specialized and I seriously dont think I ever used it. Then I can run a shorter chain and a short cage derailleur and hopefully fix this problem.

    The rear shock does blow through the travel very easily. Since this was the #1 complaint I read about the bike before, everyone probably already knows about this.

    The Good

    The bike was absolutely awesome. I had to sell my TIG welder to buy this bike and I didnt like the idea at first. I dont regret it at all anymore. There was never one moment (excpet for the two mentioned above) that I thought my Specialized was any better at anything compared to this bike. I was kinda nervouse about the geometry of the bike on some of our red trails. They do a lot of winding. It is usually a short (under 50 feet) rocky climb or decent followed by a real sharp turn. By real sharp I mean that your bars are almost 90 degrees turned. Sometimes you will have a turn like this while climbing and going over rocks. The bike actually made the turns easier than my Specialized did even though the Specialized was a XC bike. I made turns that I struggled with before. I even cleared a trail that I have never cleared before. And its not easy.

    The suspension was very nice, except for the shock bottoming easy. As I said above, I did change the fork out. It was so much stiffer than the Maniou R7 with standard QR that I had on the Specialized. I never realized how much that fork flexed in turns, ecspecially rocky turns, untill today. The better fork combined with the 20mm thru axle let me just point the wheel where I wanted it to go and it went. The dual air was also very nice. I had the negative air set about 10 psi higher than the positive. I also had the positive set about 15 psi higher than normal. This let the fork use about 3.5 inches of travel for most of the normal trail riding, and only about 4.5 on a 3 foot drop. It basically lets you fine tune how fast the spring pressure increases during travel. I still have more tuning to do on the fork, but I love it. I'm very glad I swapped it out.

    The rear suspension compared to the FSR system is both better and worse at stuff, but overall nicer. It absorbs bumps much better than the FSR. When I would sit down and hit a dip followed by a bump on the Specialized, it fel like a pogo stick. The rear of the bike would sink down and then pop me off. I tried different air pressure and messed with the rebound, but it didnt make much of a difference. This bike just absorbs it and thats it. What it is worse at though is binding up with the brake on. I got a lot of creaking noises from the rear when going over bumps stuff and using the rear brake. Overall though, this isnt a huge deal to me. You really notice it if you hold the rear brake and then sit of the bike. The rear suspension will compress a little, but if you let go of the brake it will drop a little more. But if I had to pick either a pogo stick that doesnt bind with the brake on, or a suspension that absorbs everything without you thinking about it, I'll take the Maestro system any day

    Seriously though, this is an extremely nice bike. The components are on the low end of things, but having a nice higher end fork on this frame is a perfect platform for me to start building on. Even the shifters grew on me. I actually like them now. The Shimanos required me to take my index finger off the brake lever to upshift. Now everything is with my thumb so I can keep my finger on the brake. It was real nice to because on some of the trails there are rocks that I use to see as abstacles, but today I just rode over them. Even going up our climbs which are short but steep, the bike handled it perfectly. There is nothing my Specialize could do that this bike cant, but there is plenty that this bike could do that the Specialized couldnt. And the best part is that I got the bike with the Revelation RLT Ti dual air and a decent 20mm front wheel and a 3 year extended warranty that covers anything I break all for just $2150 including tax

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by igz
    Hi,

    Congrats on your purchase, I'm sure you made a right choice. I had Reign X1 2009 and once I tried Reign 1 2011 i sold my RX1 immediately. Reign 2011 felt like nothing I had before.

    I can't wait 'til you give us some feedback when you come back from testing it. Also, how do you like Maestro? Is it better than FSR?

    Also, since I'm planing to buy new bike but can't decide between R1 and RX1 because I think I need a bike for something in between, was considering Enduro but I really like Maestro, what, for instance, would be the limit height for drops on Reigns? 3... 4 feet?

    Cheers
    I did a 3 foot drop and it was no problem. I only used about 4.5 or 5 inches of travel on the fork. If you are going to do drops regularly, I would defiently do something about the rear shock. It blows through the travel way to easy. I'm going to do something about mine, just not sure exactly what. Still debating between coil, different air shock, or just getting mine Pushed and see how that works out. Haven't heard much bad stuff about them. Once I get the rear suspension delt with, I wouldnt hesitate to do a 5 maybe 6 foot drop if it has a nice transistion to land on.

  9. #9
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    GO COIL.

    I sound like a broken record.

  10. #10
    igz
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    Sweet. Thanx for review. As I mentioned, took a spin on R1 2011 and was blown away.
    Now, in terms of drops, what is the drop height that you think would be maximum Reign 2011 could take?

    Thanx

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by igz
    Sweet. Thanx for review. As I mentioned, took a spin on R1 2011 and was blown away.
    Now, in terms of drops, what is the drop height that you think would be maximum Reign 2011 could take?

    Thanx
    If you have a different rear shock and a transition to land on, I would think up to 5 or 6 feet would be fine. Next time I go to the trails, I'm going to bring my full face helmet and hit a 5 foot drop. I weigh 200 geared up also. How the factory front fork will take it though I'm not sure. Since I have the dual air system, I can run the main spring (positive air) stiffer than you would normally run becuase you can run the negative air spring a little higher than the positive spring. This gives you easy travel for the small bumps, but quickly ups the spring rate during the last half of the travel so that you dont bottom on drops. I wish someone made a rear shock with this same system.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by SkaredShtles
    GO COIL.

    I sound like a broken record.
    Any suggestions? Has to be decent enough for regular trail riding but able to handle some drops. Most of my riding though is aggresive trail riding.

  13. #13
    igz
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    Chain slap is pissing me off too, so, maybe chain tensioner and bash ring. Next, I'd our 160mm fork, better brakes definitely. And that is pretty much it I think. Oh yes, maybe wider bar, something like 700-720mm maybe.

  14. #14
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    Nice bike mate!
    I have shimmed my RP2 and it seems to have eliminated the easy bottoming out issue.
    I am surprised you are unhappy with the brakes. I find them excellent for the money.
    Are you certain the pads/ rotor isn't contaminated?
    p.s. How do you find the Nevegals?! Mine are aweful!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by deafwish
    Nice bike mate!
    I have shimmed my RP2 and it seems to have eliminated the easy bottoming out issue.
    I am surprised you are unhappy with the brakes. I find them excellent for the money.
    Are you certain the pads/ rotor isn't contaminated?
    p.s. How do you find the Nevegals?! Mine are aweful!
    What do you mean you shimmed the shock? I havent heard of that yet. Care to elaborate a little? I'm up for trying anything right now, as I dont have money for a new shock. The brakes work fine for regular riding, but leave a lot to desire when you really need them to work. As in comming down a hill and having to brake late to go into a tight turn. I went off the trail once Sunday, luckly there was no drop where I was at. I dont think there is any contamination on the brakes. I had that happen once on my Specialized and my brakes barely worked at all. Once I took it for a ride and got some dirt on them, they started working much better. These brakes though never had that happen. They work the same now (after a hard 15 mile ride) as they did on the first test ride. I think I'll get Hope M4's up front and Tech X2 out back one day. Out of curiosity, what do you weigh? I'm 200 geared up so that may have some to do with it.

    The Nevegals gripped better than the Specialized Capatain 2.0 tires that were on my Specialized. The Captains were 2 years old though and worn out so that may be some of it. That is the only tire I can compare it to though. I will say that the Nevegals are slow tires. I know my brakes arent dragging and if I stop pedalling even on concrete I slow down quick. I'll probably try different tires eventually, but for now they will work till I get a few other things sorted out on the bike.

  16. #16
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    this looks like a easy and quick way to fix our shock problems
    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=503070

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by dkbikes4life
    Any suggestions? Has to be decent enough for regular trail riding but able to handle some drops. Most of my riding though is aggresive trail riding.
    I just got an older Fox Vanilla the right size. Much better IMO than the DHX Air that came on my Reign 1. I got my Van for $90.

  18. #18
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    Nice! I love the reign 2. best looking of the lineup for sure.

    I ordered the 2 but they shipped the 1 instead! oh well.
    The mountains are calling and I must go

  19. #19
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    btw, I must be the only one not having problems with bottoming the shock? and i weigh over 200
    The mountains are calling and I must go

  20. #20
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    I thought I should mention that I went for another ride around town today and the brakes are working much better than when I picked the bike up. I'll try to hit the trail again this weekend to see if I notice the difference on decents.

    Quote Originally Posted by Evan55
    btw, I must be the only one not having problems with bottoming the shock? and i weigh over 200
    What psi do you have the shock at and how much rough suff do you ride?

    I'm going to try the shim mod tomorrow. Hopefully it helps some.

  21. #21
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    First off nice looking bike. I have an older Reign and have finally got it dialled to where I like it. So a couple of pointers for you.

    Mine can with an RP2, switched out to an RP23, changed the RP23 to a LV can, a little better. Then had it upgrade to a boost valve version setup for my bike. Liking it way better now. Night and day different to how it tracks the trail and absorbs bumps.

    I like my bikes a little slacker so I have a Talas 36, works it out quite nice, I think the 140 for trails is okay but for anything technical 160 just feels more stable.

    As to the chain slap it can be a bit of a PITA. I am only running two rings and a BG, so I made sure to shorten the chain as much as possible to help with the chain slap. Other than that perhaps a bb mount Stinger could be worked. (Not certain if it can be used with the new bb on the 2011 models)

    Good luck with the bike.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by rideitall
    First off nice looking bike. I have an older Reign and have finally got it dialled to where I like it. So a couple of pointers for you.

    Mine can with an RP2, switched out to an RP23, changed the RP23 to a LV can, a little better. Then had it upgrade to a boost valve version setup for my bike. Liking it way better now. Night and day different to how it tracks the trail and absorbs bumps.

    I like my bikes a little slacker so I have a Talas 36, works it out quite nice, I think the 140 for trails is okay but for anything technical 160 just feels more stable.

    As to the chain slap it can be a bit of a PITA. I am only running two rings and a BG, so I made sure to shorten the chain as much as possible to help with the chain slap. Other than that perhaps a bb mount Stinger could be worked. (Not certain if it can be used with the new bb on the 2011 models)

    Good luck with the bike.
    Thanks for the tips. The 2011 Reign comes with the Boost Valve version already. I brought my bike to work with me today (ford tech) so I'm going to try the shim method. Seems lots of people tried it with good results and even PUSH said its a decent mod to do for free.

    The 2011 comes in the middle of the 140 yours came with and the 160 you have. They come with a 150mm fork. The fork I had put on says it has a A2C height that is 8mm longer than the stock Fox fork. If 20mm roughly equals 1 degree, then this slacks mine out by about .5 degrees. So I am around a 67 HTA right now and love it. I know cross country guys like the steep HTA, but I never really liked the twitchy steering feel.

    For the tensioner, someone posted a link to a tensioner that should work. Dont remember the name right now, but it was only $25 so if it doesnt work, I'm not out that much.

  23. #23
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    Hi DK,

    Let me know how you go with the chain tensioner - as it's also potentially on my list...

  24. #24
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    Notice you have a rock shox front fork on yours, but online it shows it suppose to have the Fox 32 Float RL with 15QR thru-axle. Did you swap that out?

    BTW.... sweet bike mang.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by TX_Shifter
    Notice you have a rock shox front fork on yours, but online it shows it suppose to have the Fox 32 Float RL with 15QR thru-axle. Did you swap that out?

    BTW.... sweet bike mang.
    Yea, I swapped it out. Its a Revelation RLT Ti dual air with 20mm axle. The front wheel also had to be changed out becuase of this. I did this becuase I've read lots of reviews talking about how Fox fork can be sticky and the only thing to tune on the Fox fork besides air pressure is rebound. This fork has dual air springs, rebound, low speed compression, lockout, and floodgate. You can also use internal shims to change the travel, not that I would though. The 20mm axle was also a major factor. I absolutely love this fork already. Not one tiny bit of stichion at all. Perfectly smooth.

  26. #26
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    dkbikes4life, if you can change out your front wheel, the Mavic 325 is an absolute boat anchor, something like 750g. Other Mavic rims are much lighter and likely stronger. Even the 729 is lighter. I would say 721 or 521 depending on how much abuse it is going to take. If you want really like the Stan's Flow rims are supposed to be pretty tough as well.

    I have looked at the new Revelations but I really like the 3 position adjustment on my 2010 Talas 36. Does your Revelation have travel adjust or fixed travel. Keep us updated on how it handles steep technical terrain, in terms of flex or excessive dive.

    thx

  27. #27
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    Your right about the front wheel. The wheel/tire weighs in at exactly 5 pounds on a bathroom scale. Before I even got the bike I knew I was going to eventually build a nice wheelset for the bike, so I told the bike shop to just get me the cheapest wheel they could with a 20mm thru axle. Figured anything that came with that axle should be strong enough. Both wheels will get changed out eventually.

    My Revelation is dual air, not dual postition. I was set on a travel adjust fork, mainly becuase everything I read said that a bike with the geometry of this bike shouldnt do tight turns or climbs real good. Then I started thinking about it and our trails are short climbs followed by shorts decents. I would be turning the travel knob every minute if I was just dropping it for the climbs. Plus I like the adjustability of the dual air setup. I am very glad I didnt go with a travel adjust fork. I would never use it. Here in Florida we just dont have long enough climbs to justify it. Plus the bike already takes everything easier than my Specialized did. If I really wanted to though, you can shim the fork down internally.

    I can already tell a huge difference in this fork and the fork that was on my Specialized. This is also going from a normal 9mm QR to the 20mm. I use to be able to watch my rotor move side to side when going through rock. My front wheel use to also lean in rocks. Thats all gone now. Riding rock gardens, even climbing them, is so much easier now. I litteraly just sit down, put the bike in an easy gear, and point the front wheel where I want it to go. It doesnt bounce off rocks like I was use to.

    The fork is completely tuneable to get any brake dive out of it. It has low speed compression adjustment up top with floodgate control. The floodgate effects the fork all the time, not just when locked out. Also with the dual position I can run about 15 psi higher than normal and run 10 psi higher in the negative chamber. This gives me a nice comfortable ride that absorbs all the small stuff, but also doesnt bottom easly. Last sunday when I rode I did some lines and drops that I've never done before. The fork didnt bottom once. I probably can actually take 5 psi out of both chambers to make the fork a little more plush and still be ok on drops. And considering the bike shop gave me a $40 credit on the fork (instead of me owing money for the new fork) I am 100% glad I did it. This fork doesnt stick at all in slightest, unlike most of the bikes with Fox forks on them I test rode.

  28. #28
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    Hey guys i also have a 2011 reign 2 and i had some chain hop issues. it is actually remedied now so i thought i would share. i have gone to a 34t ethirteen ring, race face bash, shortened the chain, and i have gone to a 1x9 setup. fixed the front derailleur over the chain ring and it works perfectly! i have looked into every possible chain tensioner/ guide and there is nothing because our bikes lack the ISCG tabs and/ or the threaded BB. there are adapter cups to convert to a threaded BB but nothing for our bikes yet because it is a BB92 i believe. the only guide that will fit our bikes is a top guide that mounts on the seat tube. it wouldnt have helped my chain much because it was hopping from the bottom. any way hope this helps!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Got my new 2011 Reign 2 in!-reignsmp.jpg  


  29. #29
    igz
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    Nice bike! I think Im confused now 'how maybes go'. U say u running 1x9 so 1 ring up front. How come u still have front derailleur on? That sux about chain tensioners.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by igz
    Nice bike! I think Im confused now 'how maybes go'. U say u running 1x9 so 1 ring up front. How come u still have front derailleur on? That sux about chain tensioners.
    i keep the derailleur on for 2 reasons.

    1. just incase the chain decides to hop off the top to the inside. i have it fixed way far out so its a makeshift top guide. i removed the front derailleur shifter.

    2. because it would leave a weird open spot where the shimano direct mount is.


    and to touch on the rear shock issue of being too soft.... i weigh about 195lbs and i have the thing set on 270-280psi. i also ride with it open 100% of the time. i ride pretty aggressively hitting what ever jump and drop i can find. the reason i leave it open is because i feel it gives me more traction.

  31. #31
    igz
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    Thanx for that. Crap, I didn't know we're there are no decent chain tensioners for us now. Do we have any options?

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by igz
    Thanx for that. Crap, I didn't know we're there are no decent chain tensioners for us now. Do we have any options?
    not any good options right now unfortunately.this is the only thing that will mount on our bikes: http://www.e13components.com/product_xcx_st.html
    i mentioned before that we would probably be getting some bottom bracket adapter cups that would allow us to convert our BB to a threaded BB. when we can do that all you have to do is mount a chain guide/tensioner with an ISCG adapter plate. the picture is some FMF adapter cups that wont fit our bikes BUT it will give you a good idea of what the BB adapter will look like.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  33. #33
    igz
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    I see. Thanx heaps.

  34. #34
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    If you go ghetto 1x10 by removing the front shifter but keeping the front derailleur on, you can shorten the chain quite a bit and thus getting rid of a lot of chain slap. A tensioner would be ideal but ghettoing it up is free and you can do it right now.

    Nice bike btw, looks really good with the Revelation on there!

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by olijay
    If you go ghetto 1x10 by removing the front shifter but keeping the front derailleur on, you can shorten the chain quite a bit and thus getting rid of a lot of chain slap. A tensioner would be ideal but ghettoing it up is free and you can do it right now.

    Nice bike btw, looks really good with the Revelation on there!
    Thank you. I have actually thought about doing this. When I eventually go to a real 1X9 I plan on staying with a 32 tooth front gear anyways. I may try to make some kind of tensioner that mounts to the chainstay. E-thirteen also has a guide they say should work to take the place of the front derailleur. They also said that soon a guide should be available that would bolt to the direct mount. I also plan to go with a short cage rear derailleur to make the chain a little shorter.

    I also though I should mention that I did the shim mod on the rear shock. It definetly makes a difference. I made mine the same size as the OP of that thread. 135mm X 20mm X 1.1mm. I made sure I had the shock at the same psi before and after. Before I did this, with 190 psi in it, I could grab the seat and just drop my weight on it and the shock would bottom. Now, I get about 1.5 inches of travel out of it instead of all 2 inches. I am going to try it out on the same trails I rode last week for a good comparision. I may end up going with a slightly larger shim though. Now when I am riding the bike and I bounce it as hard as I can I get nearly perfectly equal travel back and front. And it really does only take about 10 minutes start to finish.

  36. #36
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    Beautiful bikes, Giant did great with the Reign lineup, sadly the f++cked the Reing X and Faith colors badly for 2011

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by cesalec
    Beautiful bikes, Giant did great with the Reign lineup, sadly the f++cked the Reing X and Faith colors badly for 2011

  38. #38
    igz
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    Is it possible to find instructions on how to shim it anywhere?

  39. #39
    igz
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    HowMaybesGo, so you just removed largest and smallest rings that came on the bike originally? ...then you just mounted RF bash ring.

    Why didn't you just leave original middle ring on? Thanx

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by igz
    HowMaybesGo, so you just removed largest and smallest rings that came on the bike originally? ...then you just mounted RF bash ring.

    Why didn't you just leave original middle ring on? Thanx
    yeah thats exactly what i did. i replaced the original chain ring because with a 34t it will give me a little bit more when im needing to pick up speed downhill and because with a "true" single chain ring it has a little bit longer tooth which i hoped would help with the chain hop. with a chain ring that is meant to be shifted from you can see that some of the teeth have a slight....... "slanted grind" (for a lack of better words) to help when shifting.
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  41. #41
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    Figured I'd update my review again. I did a little bit of everything yesterday on the bike. I did about 22 miles of general XC style riding, some rocky, techy trails, and some drops.

    First off, I changed the suspension setup since last week. I added some air to the rear shock, and added the shim to the air canister. This made a drastic change in the way the shock acts. The way I have it now is a little stiff, but I dont like the rear to be really soft.

    I let some air out of the fork. I am actually using way less air than RS recommends. But I only have 1" of sag so its still less than 25% of sag. I'm running 95psi on the positive and 90 on the negative. This gives a fairly soft ride, but because there is a little less air in the negative, the fork starts getting stiffer quicker. I found out that the way I was running it before, was actually giving me 5.5 inches of travel instead of all 6 inches. I did have the negative higher than the positive and the positive higher than normal (125 psi). Running the negative higher than the positive will start to pull the fork down. Its actually really picky about how you fill it up. If your wanting to up the pressure in the fork, you have to first add air to the positive then to the negative. If you do it the other way around, you wont have full travel.

    Now with the front and rear setup the way I do, I get equal travel on the front and rear at the same time. Before I did anything, I could bounce the bike while riding and the rear would bottom way before the front. You can actually only get 5" of travel on the front when normal riding or bouncing the bike. I think the last 1" has some sort of bump stop in it becuase I only got full travel twice.

    On the XC ride the bike was perfect. I had the pro-pedal on and the bike was stiff enough to not absorb lots of energy. I would have no hesitation on doing a 50 mile ride on this bike. The seat does suck though. It has no cutouts or even recess. The first ride I did on the bike (about 15 miles) left me very soar. Yesterday didnt bother me though becuase I finally bought a pair of good lycra shorts. There were some sections where my average speed was actually faster than when I had my Specialized.

    On the rocky stuff, once again this bike was worlds above the Specialized. The front wheel goes where I want it to, rather than where the rocks want it to like the Specialized. There were a couple rock gardens I got through and looked back and wondered how I just did that.

    On the drops, I found it took a 4 foot drop to a small, not very angled transistion to max the suspension. A 3 foot drop did not bottom it. As I said though, I was not running the recommended air pressure up front, so with the proper amont (95psi vs. 135psi), it may take a 5 foot drop to max it. For me this is absolutely perfect because thats as big of a drop as I will ever do anyways.

    The brakes still suck. Maybe for lighter riders they would be ok, but for me (tad over 200 geared up) they just dont cut it.

    I did manage to bend the rear deraillure hanger. This is actually the reason I wound up going for a long 20 mile XC ride. I was planning on concentrating on all the technical rocky trails, but the chain kept skipping on the 3 largest cogs. Its fixed now though.

    Overall though, I fell in love with this bike even more. Once I get better brakes, a different seat, and go 1X9, the bike will be perfect. I'll still probably get some nice wheels eventually and maybe differnet bars, but thats more due to personal preference. I want a nice quicker engaging rear hub like a Chris King or something like that. The front wheel I bought is also very heavy, but its not the factory one to the bike. I also have a color scheme I want for the wheels. I may go to a slightly wider bar. There is nothing wrong the factory bar, but I find myself gripping the very outside of the bar most of time. People with smaller shoulders/chest would probably find the bars perfect. What I love about this bike is that I can go and do some jumps and 4 foot drops and then go ride 20 miles of XC riding and everything in between without changing anything on the bike. One bike for everything. I would say that makes a perfect AM bike to me.

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by dkbikes4life

    The brakes still suck. Maybe for lighter riders they would be ok, but for me (tad over 200 geared up) they just dont cut it.

    I did manage to bend the rear deraillure hanger. This is actually the reason I wound up going for a long 20 mile XC ride. I was planning on concentrating on all the technical rocky trails, but the chain kept skipping on the 3 largest cogs. Its fixed now though.

    Overall though, I fell in love with this bike even more. Once I get better brakes, a different seat, and go 1X9, the bike will be perfect. I'll still probably get some nice wheels eventually and maybe differnet bars, but thats more due to personal preference. I want a nice quicker engaging rear hub like a Chris King or something like that. The front wheel I bought is also very heavy, but its not the factory one to the bike. I also have a color scheme I want for the wheels. I may go to a slightly wider bar. There is nothing wrong the factory bar, but I find myself gripping the very outside of the bar most of time. People with smaller shoulders/chest would probably find the bars perfect. What I love about this bike is that I can go and do some jumps and 4 foot drops and then go ride 20 miles of XC riding and everything in between without changing anything on the bike. One bike for everything. I would say that makes a perfect AM bike to me.
    glad that you enjoy the bike so much! i try to explain to people but i dont think they really understand i have already bent my derailleur hanger and my derailleur cage..... have no idea how i did it but i jump, do drops and ride the rockiest sections i can find. the 1x9 setup is awesome! haven't had any problems with the brakes though. i find them really touchy and we are about the same weight ( 195lbs without gear). maybe i like them so much because i lack experience with higher end brakes. if you find yourself upgrading them soon though let me know because i might be interested in picking them up from you.
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  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by nubijo
    Another excellent way to go 1x9 on the reign.

    Two BBG bashguards for $36, plus $25 for the Blackspire single chainring.

    courtesy of "Stonebreaker" from the Widget thread.


  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by stiingya
    Another excellent way to go 1x9 on the reign.

    Two BBG bashguards for $36, plus $25 for the Blackspire single chainring.

    courtesy of "Stonebreaker" from the Widget thread.
    I was thinking of doing something like this. Is that a 32t chainring there? I e-mailed Erin at BBG and, strangely, he said he doesn't make the 64BCD, granny-mounted bash in anything but a 32t size. Shouldn't it be easy enough to make those bashguards in any size?
    I thought about the Widgit but it's way to spendy. I want to keep my fairly new 34t Blackspire Mono Veloce and keep costs as low as possible.
    Better to have and not need it, than to need it and not have it.

  46. #46
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    You should run your ft. brake housing on the inside of the fork, so you dont tear the line the first time you set the bike over.

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by HowMaybesGo
    glad that you enjoy the bike so much! i try to explain to people but i dont think they really understand i have already bent my derailleur hanger and my derailleur cage..... have no idea how i did it but i jump, do drops and ride the rockiest sections i can find. the 1x9 setup is awesome! haven't had any problems with the brakes though. i find them really touchy and we are about the same weight ( 195lbs without gear). maybe i like them so much because i lack experience with higher end brakes. if you find yourself upgrading them soon though let me know because i might be interested in picking them up from you.
    Where are you located at? I did just order new brakes for the bike. Hope M4's back and front with 183mm rotors.

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