XTR cranks won't spin after being torqued- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 21 of 21
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    17

    XTR cranks won't spin after being torqued

    Ok, so i bought a set of used xtr cranks off ebay and also a brand new bottom bracket. Upon their arrival i go in install them and after i torque it down to 45-55nm the crank arms don't spin anymore.

    So i think i did something wrong and youtube a few videos and i don't see them doing anything different from what i am doing. Then i start thinking it is because i bought a used crankset, but it looks fine as far as i can tell, but i'm no expert.

    Basically i'm stumped and i need some guidance or some advice. Anyone had this issue before? I am pretty new to working on bikes, but i am pretty handy with tools.

  2. #2
    The joy of ski is Yours
    Reputation: Haint's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    1,370
    Quote Originally Posted by stryder508 View Post
    Ok, so i bought a set of used xtr cranks off ebay and also a brand new bottom bracket. Upon their arrival i go in install them and after i torque it down to 45-55nm the crank arms don't spin anymore.

    So i think i did something wrong and youtube a few videos and i don't see them doing anything different from what i am doing. Then i start thinking it is because i bought a used crankset, but it looks fine as far as i can tell, but i'm no expert.

    Basically i'm stumped and i need some guidance or some advice. Anyone had this issue before? I am pretty new to working on bikes, but i am pretty handy with tools.
    Simple-terms - you have to lessen the space it is that the BB is cinching ontop of. It may be too-many 2.5mm Washers, it may be as much as you have the frame-paint rolled over the facing of your BB.

    Be sure you don't have a 68mm BB set up for your 73mm. The amount of washers in that common setup is unique to each. Otherwise, get your BB Shell as close to the needed measurement (68/73mm. Sure that XTR is not 83mm ready) and use the spec'd washers. Likely 2 on the R, & 1 on the L.
    I like Sand - I don't like Witches


  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    17
    Quote Originally Posted by Haint View Post
    Simple-terms - you have to lessen the space it is that the BB is cinching ontop of. It may be too-many 2.5mm Washers, it may be as much as you have the frame-paint rolled over the facing of your BB.

    Be sure you don't have a 68mm BB set up for your 73mm. The amount of washers in that common setup is unique to each. Otherwise, get your BB Shell as close to the needed measurement (68/73mm. Sure that XTR is not 83mm ready) and use the spec'd washers. Likely 2 on the R, & 1 on the L.
    How would I know I have the wrong BB? I have a 2012 intense Tracer 2

  4. #4
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
    Reputation: shiggy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 1998
    Posts
    48,236

    XTR cranks won't spin after being torqued

    Quote Originally Posted by stryder508 View Post
    Ok, so i bought a set of used xtr cranks off ebay and also a brand new bottom bracket. Upon their arrival i go in install them and after i torque it down to 45-55nm the crank arms don't spin anymore.

    So i think i did something wrong and youtube a few videos and i don't see them doing anything different from what i am doing. Then i start thinking it is because i bought a used crankset, but it looks fine as far as i can tell, but i'm no expert.

    Basically i'm stumped and i need some guidance or some advice. Anyone had this issue before? I am pretty new to working on bikes, but i am pretty handy with tools.
    Which part did you torque to 45-55nm?
    Hopefully not the cap or crank arm.

    I think you need to refer to the installation instructions.
    http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830726445.PDF
    mtbtires.com
    The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common

  5. #5
    ups and downs
    Reputation: rockyuphill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    15,581
    Let's also be specific about which model of XTR cranks. The 970 9 speed series or 980 10 speed series? And by won't spin, do you mean freely or at all?
    I'm a member of NSMBA and IMBA Canada

  6. #6
    The joy of ski is Yours
    Reputation: Haint's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    1,370
    Quote Originally Posted by stryder508 View Post
    How would I know I have the wrong BB? I have a 2012 intense Tracer 2
    That'd have to be a 73mm BB, Shiggy's link & post should have you onto the right setup.
    I like Sand - I don't like Witches


  7. #7
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
    Reputation: shiggy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 1998
    Posts
    48,236

    XTR cranks won't spin after being torqued

    Quote Originally Posted by rockyuphill View Post
    Let's also be specific about which model of XTR cranks. The 970 9 speed series or 980 10 speed series? And by won't spin, do you mean freely or at all?
    The model does not matter as long as it is an external bearing BB. If it is an older crank/BB then it could be a clearance issue.
    mtbtires.com
    The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common

  8. #8
    No. Just No.
    Reputation: Circlip's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    5,194
    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    The model does not matter as long as it is an external bearing BB. If it is an older crank/BB then it could be a clearance issue.
    The preload mechanism changed from the 96x series to the 97x/98x so that knowing the model might help us to go through a checklist to better understand whether the spacer setup is incorrect, or else if it's misuse of the preload, or other.

  9. #9
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
    Reputation: shiggy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 1998
    Posts
    48,236

    XTR cranks won't spin after being torqued

    Quote Originally Posted by Circlip View Post
    The preload mechanism changed from the 96x series to the 97x/98x so that knowing the model might help us to go through a checklist to better understand whether the spacer setup is incorrect, or else if it's misuse of the preload, or other.
    Actually the 970 is the one that is different (why the frick did they think that was a good idea?). The 960 and 98X are the same, and the only type I have worked on (still a less than perfect design).
    mtbtires.com
    The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation: DJ Giggity's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,228
    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    Actually the 970 is the one that is different (why the frick did they think that was a good idea?). The 960 and 98X are the same, and the only type I have worked on (still a less than perfect design).
    The preload mech on the 970s is brilliant. It is my favorite of any cranks I have ever owned. That being said, it could be causing the problem if it was not backed out before install.
    Only two infinite things exist: the universe and stupidity. And, I am unsure of the universe
    - Albert Einstein

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    17
    Quote Originally Posted by rockyuphill View Post
    Let's also be specific about which model of XTR cranks. The 970 9 speed series or 980 10 speed series? And by won't spin, do you mean freely or at all?
    I have the m970 9speed. And after being torqued it won't spin at all

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    17
    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    Which part did you torque to 45-55nm?
    Hopefully not the cap or crank arm.

    I think you need to refer to the installation instructions.
    http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/te...9830726445.PDF
    My cranks are different than those ones in that installation instructions

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    17
    The way I have the BB set up is with 2spacers on the drive side and 1 spacer on the non drive side because that's how it was set up on my previous crankset. I'm thinking maybe take a spacer off?

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    17
    Ok, so I followed the spacer instruction on that link for 73mm spacing and it now spins a lot smoother, but I have very little clearance between the non drive crank arm and my frame. I would say about a quarter inch or less. Is that normal?

  15. #15
    The joy of ski is Yours
    Reputation: Haint's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    1,370
    Quote Originally Posted by stryder508 View Post
    Ok, so I followed the spacer instruction on that link for 73mm spacing and it now spins a lot smoother, but I have very little clearance between the non drive crank arm and my frame. I would say about a quarter inch or less. Is that normal?
    How were the cranks you replaced?? You can alter your chainline via juggling the BB Washers, it may prove too much for this first-go at dialing in a crankset.

    .25-inch clearance @ the chainstay seems fine, should you have a much larger space on the other you can go ahead and alter your ChainLine, but you'd want to be sure you are able to source chainring w/ dimensions which compensate for the new offset.

    There is a manner to fit these and/or XT cranksets to 83mm BB Shells - it involves removing the 64mm CR-Tabs, and careful removal of material to have the spindle settle in the middle of the Bottom Bracket. Doing this totally removes any one makers intended chainline. But knowing where to draw this measurement from - it keeps drivetrain chatter near or at a nil-amount.

    That's an extreme example of how modular cranksets can be, your situation however is a simple exercise in having your chain be kept at it's proven path, the Chain Line.
    I like Sand - I don't like Witches


  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    17
    Quote Originally Posted by Haint View Post
    How were the cranks you replaced?? You can alter your chainline via juggling the BB Washers, it may prove too much for this first-go at dialing in a crankset.

    .25-inch clearance @ the chainstay seems fine, should you have a much larger space on the other you can go ahead and alter your ChainLine, but you'd want to be sure you are able to source chainring w/ dimensions which compensate for the new offset.
    What are you referring to when you ask how the cranks were that i replaced?

    XTR cranks won't spin after being torqued-2013-04-28-09.42.42.jpg
    Also is this normal? i can slight bend the crank arm with my hands and it gets pretty close to the frame. I am assuming if i can bend it that much with my hands then my legs should be able to bend it further?

  17. #17
    The joy of ski is Yours
    Reputation: Haint's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    1,370
    Quote Originally Posted by stryder508 View Post
    What are you referring to when you ask how the cranks were that i replaced?
    Also is this normal?
    If you think that you've went and malaligned your crankset, your q-factor, your BB tension, and can also be spinning this crankset and bend the arms into themselves enough to smack your chainstays -- take your bike to a mechanic you can speak w/ in person or this will be an exercise in nothing, outside of failure.
    I like Sand - I don't like Witches


  18. #18
    No. Just No.
    Reputation: Circlip's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    5,194
    Quote Originally Posted by stryder508 View Post
    Also is this normal? i can slight bend the crank arm with my hands and it gets pretty close to the frame. I am assuming if i can bend it that much with my hands then my legs should be able to bend it further?
    I doubt you can bend the crank arm with your hands in any measurable way (that would qualify you as the Hulk) but you can probably twist the entire BB junction using the leverage of the crank arm, by an amount that will vary from frame to frame.

    That's assuming you have the crank arm assembly installed properly, of course. If not then all bets are off with regard to what is or isn't flexing or twisting.

  19. #19
    No. Just No.
    Reputation: Circlip's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    5,194
    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    Actually the 970 is the one that is different (why the frick did they think that was a good idea?). The 960 and 98X are the same, and the only type I have worked on (still a less than perfect design).
    Ha, funny. I have 96x and 97x sitting here within reach, and falsely assumed that 98x
    carried forward the 97x setup. Never occurred to me they would revert backwards. Silly Shimano, not for changing back but for the false start on the 97x style. While it may be highly functional, I very much appreciated the ability to do a full crank removal in the field, since the preload adjuster could be done by hand in a pinch, which left only the pinch bolts at a torque value that was easily handled with a multi tool.

  20. #20
    the catalan connection
    Reputation: What&son's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,266
    Quote Originally Posted by Circlip View Post
    ....I very much appreciated the ability to do a full crank removal in the field....
    Why? Just asking
    "Blessed is the man who, having nothing to say, abstains from giving us wordly evidence of the fact." George Elliot

  21. #21
    No. Just No.
    Reputation: Circlip's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    5,194
    Quote Originally Posted by What&son View Post
    Why? Just asking
    If you've ever badly mangled a chainring, or had someone in your group do it (to the point where it's actually fouling the rotation of the crank), in sub-alpine terrain a solid half day's ride from a toolbox, you'd very much appreciate the ability to easily remove the crank with only a 5mm hex. Trust me on this.

Similar Threads

  1. I would rather ...... then ......... (spin off)
    By sasquatch rides a SS in forum Off Camber (off topic)
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 08-10-2012, 01:32 PM
  2. slx cranks feel harder to spin
    By brunomu in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 07-03-2012, 03:03 AM
  3. SPIN - God is a DJ
    By highdelll in forum General Discussion
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 01-13-2012, 04:44 PM
  4. To spin or not to spin?
    By henrymiller1 in forum Singlespeed
    Replies: 47
    Last Post: 10-02-2011, 06:27 PM
  5. Truvativ Stylo Crank / BB Seizing When Torqued
    By surlyjackalope in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 04-05-2011, 11:56 AM

Members who have read this thread: 1

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2020 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.