What's your favorite chain lube?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    What's your favorite chain lube?

    I'm getting back into mountain biking and the number of choices for lube makes me dizzy.

    I bike in NC and although I try to avoid the mud, it is inevitable.

    What type of chain lube to you prefer for these conditions?

  2. #2
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    ProLink chain lube....It cleans and lubes, awesome stuff

  3. #3
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    Been using Tri-Flow Wet for 10 years with good success, but am intrigued by the ads for "Super Lube" spray lube.
    Maybe next year Ill try it

  4. #4
    DynoDon
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    Finish Line Ceramic Wax Lube, new last year, I have to lube more, but my bike is always clean of grease, I don't have to use chemicals on my bike ever, no worry about contaminating my brakes/paint/bearings, I only use water to clean. I lube after every ride on the lower pully. I live in Michigan, lots of mud and water, this ceramic lube works great.
    Last edited by manabiker; 04-02-2011 at 07:10 AM.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Standupnfall
    Been using Tri-Flow Wet for 10 years with good success, but am intrigued by the ads for "Super Lube" spray lube.
    Maybe next year Ill try it
    Save your $$$, and stick to Tri-Flow

    I had a job as coach in a cycling club. During that time, I have seen just about any lube, applied with high hopes and loads of enthusiasm, none of them worked as well as Tri-Flow.
    I did though see a few people get a significantly shorter lifespan from their drivetrain, due to the latest fad of chain lube.

    Tri-Flow has been considered the best money can buy, by the industrial sector, for perhaps 20 years by now. It would not be so if something else was even close to be as good, as the industry are sure counting pennies, and Tri-Flow is in the nasty end of the price scale.


    Magura

  6. #6
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    Rock N Roll, no question. I like Tri-Flow for cables, pivot points on derailleurs and such, but since TF stays wet, in dusty conditions the dirt particles stick and create something akin to lapping compound.
    "Yeah, Humboldt County is way the %#@* up there, but worth it!"

  7. #7
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    A.T.B.

    (good luck Googling it, but top-notch bike stores carry it)

  8. #8
    Mountain Man Dan
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    I've been using ProGold Prolink, but doesn't last for ****. I'm going to try Rock N Roll Extreme Lube.

  9. #9
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    Finish Line Ceramic FTW!
    Why should anyone steal a watch when he could steal a bicycle? ~Flann O'Brien

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  10. #10
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    You guys are all wasting your $$
    A gallon of bar oil will last you a lifetime
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  11. #11
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    i refilled my chainlube bottle with a high quality motorcycle transmission oil ,works great. I Lube everyride and on these sloppy spring rides end up hosing the bike down after the ride. i use a reusable wipe for drying off the bike and one papertowel for the chain then i relube he chain before it rusts. every couple of rides i pull the crank ,cassette and deraileur pullys and clean everything off . If the chain looks like it has gunky residue i wipe it down with some kerosene and relube right after. Same deal on the roadbike but it doesn't get hosed down ,the chain seems to get gunkier,but kerosene fixes that right up.

  12. #12
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    Chain-L
    or
    Chainsaw bar oil as the man getting High on the Dell said.

    michael

  13. #13
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    Squirt lube. Longest chain life by far in my 30 years of trail riding, used in rainy to baking hot days. I'm too lazy to clean my chain, ever. The water base doesn't remove the protective wax, dirt has minimal chance to contact and wear the metal.

  14. #14
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    I've been using Finish Line Ceramic Wet. I get it cheap since I work at a LBS.

    Tri-flow is too thin and needs to be applied often. I don't mind lubing the chain, but every ride or so would get tiring to me.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigfoot
    Rock N Roll, no question. I like Tri-Flow for cables, pivot points on derailleurs and such, but since TF stays wet, in dusty conditions the dirt particles stick and create something akin to lapping compound.

    Exactly what he said
    Quote Originally Posted by Malibu412
    Cableb!tch: living, breathing proof you can be right and.still be a dick.

  16. #16
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    I use the dry tri flow. Been a fan of tri flow for years, the dry stuff is not messy and really sheds dust and crud. I understand the arguments that It might not lube the pins and rollers as well as wet but honestly my chain is on an annual replacement schedule anyhow.

  17. #17
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    Surprised nobody else has mentioned it.... I like T9 Boeshield. It's viscous enough so that it actually stays in the chain. I used to use Tri-Flow until I realized it's like water, but I still use it on the parts that require the lube to travel a bit more, like the shifty bits.
    Sometimes, I question the value of my content.

  18. #18
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    Tri-Flow wet. One drop on each link then wipe away the excess.
    My Bike: '19 Liv Tempt 2
    My Blog: http://http://kona0197.wordpress.com/

  19. #19
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    Rock N Roll Gold when its dry and dusty
    Rock N Roll Extreme for winter

    Lube Cables with Cable Magic

  20. #20
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    I have been using Tri Flow and it works, but after a few rides my chain and drive train look like they've been through a tar pit.

    I just picked up a bottle of ProLink and it seems like more of a degreaser/solvent than a lubricant so I can see why it has to be applied frequently. I don't usually ride for more than 2-3 hours so this shouldn't be an issue.

    If I can spend 2 minutes lubing my chain before a ride if it keeps most of the crud from sticking to it.

    I may try Rock and Roll when I run out, if I don't replace my chain first.

  21. #21
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    ProLink Gold, good stuff.

    Best, John

  22. #22
    AZ
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    Chainsaw bar lube.

  23. #23
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    Rock "N" Roll Extreme
    Mike
    2011 Moto Fly Pro

  24. #24
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    Automotive gear oil.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by JasperIN
    ProLink chain lube....It cleans and lubes, awesome stuff
    Yep, If your riding in the dry, it's the best. Just have to put it on more often then other lubes. Actually I use this stuff to lube a lot of things. It works great for cables, derailer pulleys and derailer pivot pins. I also put a few drops on the springs of my Eggbeaters

  26. #26
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    RnR Extreme for everyday use. RnR Absolute Dry for dry, sandy conditions.

  27. #27
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    I bought a lifetime supply of Coda Mountain Dry Wax, for less than $20 when they discontinued it. I might've paid less than $10, I don't remember- it was 10 years ago.

  28. #28
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    ATB for me too.

  29. #29
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    Pedros Extra Dry, hasn't been made for a few years but now that i've tried 5 other lubes Extra dry was still the best at keeping the chain quiet, clean, and smooth shifting. Sure it didn't last but 25 mi on the chain but it kept the drive train super clean.

  30. #30
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    My homebrew (50/50 20w50 Bio Bar and Chain Oil and Canola Oil)

    Totally biodegradable, no toxic chemicals (Teflon or PTFE is TOXIC), and works as good or better than ANY lube I've ever used...and I've used a lot of them.

  31. #31
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    I am a mountain biker with 25 years experience. In that time I have tried most of the chain lubes. The chain lube that I recommend to all my friends is Finish Line Wet Lube. It also goes by the name Finish Line Cross Country. This is also the chain lube that all the experienced bicycle mechanics use on their own personal bikes.

    See my blog on bicycle cleaning for my all tips and tricks.

    https://alloycowboy.blogspot.com/201...1_archive.html


    Last edited by sopwithcamel; 04-02-2011 at 06:50 PM.

  32. #32
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    DuMonde
    Don’t frail and blow if you’re going to Braille and Flow.

  33. #33
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    Prolink.

    I would use something like bar & chain oil, but my experience with wet lubes is that I do not always have the patience to do it right, and when I do it wrong (over-apply) things get really dirty and gunky. Actually, I do use a wet lube on my road and commuter bikes.

    With a Prolink I just put more on between every ride. If I over-apply it is fine as long as it dries some before I ride. I use it year round.
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  34. #34
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    Love the DuMonde Tech

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountainbikeloco
    Love the DuMonde Tech
    I use the green.
    :wq

  36. #36
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    Prolink Gold for years on my road and mountain bike. Moved to the last southwest last summer (from the midwest) and have found myself with a dry chain after 30 miles or so off-road with the stuff. I really like it because it keeps the chain cleaner and the drivetrain easier to clean than tri-flow (which I used for years before switching) but the amount of lube I'm blowing through in this dusty climate is second to only the most expensive girls in Vegas.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by sopwithcamel
    I am a mountain biker with 25 years experience. In that time I have tried most of the chain lubes. The chain lube that I recommend to all my friends is Finish Line Wet Lube. It also goes by the name Finish Line Cross Country. This is also the chain lube that all the experienced bicycle mechanics use on their own personal bikes.

    See my blog on bicycle cleaning for my all tips and tricks.

    https://alloycowboy.blogspot.com/201...1_archive.html



    This is my favorite as well. I do have to say though that I'll pretty much use whatever is free/cheap/easily available. In fact, now that I see some people are using bar/chain oil, I'm considering that as well, since it's something I have around the house. I was unaware that lots of people were using it though. Does it gunk up around the pulleys and stuff when it's exposed to dirt? A lot of the lower quality wet lubes do that and I don't care much for them for that reason.
    Ocala Mountain Bike Association - www.omba.org

  38. #38
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    I went with the Rock N Roll Extreme and Gold on my road bike and mtn bk. After about 2hrs or so I could hear my chain I gave it a few more chances but still would die out after a couple hours ride.

    I've been using Pro Link for about 4 years now with no issues.
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  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by dickeydoo
    I went with the Rock N Roll Extreme and Gold on my road bike and mtn bk. After about 2hrs or so I could hear my chain I gave it a few more chances but still would die out after a couple hours ride.

    I've been using Pro Link for about 4 years now with no issues.
    Really? I seem to have that issue with Pro Link, chain gets noisy after a short time. How do you apply yours?

  40. #40
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    Tri flow for last 6-7 years

    Here is why. From about 1977 to 2003 I used 3 in 1 Household oil and ragged off. Oiled EVERY other ride-BMX / Cruiser / to Mt. bike in the 80's. Never broke a chain. I ride fairly advanced now with advanced friends/racers and got tired of getting teased-always. So to save face I buy expensive oil and probably saved myself from a degrading nickname .

  41. #41
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    Something worse than Hoolie.

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by highdelll
    You guys are all wasting your $$
    A gallon of bar oil will last you a lifetime
    Good enough for my chainsaw, good enough for my bike...
    Quote Originally Posted by ridelikeafatkid
    "MOMMY, I WANT TO RIDE LIKE THAT FAT KID!" true story.

  43. #43
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    Rock & Roll is my favorite, but I've been using Maxima penetrating oil with Maxima chain wax or Pro Guard on the outside. It's for motorcycles. Seems to work damn near as well as the Rock & Roll, but you probably spend under $10/year on it.


  44. #44
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    How's the bar oil in dusty dry conditions?

  45. #45
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    Chain-L is the best I have found so far
    http://www.chain-l.com/
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  46. #46
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    "Fap Chain Lube" is the best.

    Although It's hard to come by.

  47. #47
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    I use the Finish Line Wet Lube.
    Never thought if the using Maxima motorcycle chain wax. I have a can of that laying around somewhere.

    My long time riding buddy swears by this Lucas Chain Lubricant

    What do you think ?

  48. #48
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    Don't use just the Maxima chain wax alone. Use the MPPL to get deep into the pin/roller interface, and then the wax sort of seals everything up and aids in dirt shedding.

    Spray on chain wax
    Pedal and let sit for a while
    Wipe off excess
    Spray on chain wax and pedal...maybe wiping off a little excess if it's on thick
    Let set

    Enjoy
    Last edited by @dam; 04-03-2011 at 02:37 PM.

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChainChain
    How's the bar oil in dusty dry conditions?
    I live in western WA State, there's no such thing as dry, dusty conditions.
    Quote Originally Posted by ridelikeafatkid
    "MOMMY, I WANT TO RIDE LIKE THAT FAT KID!" true story.

  50. #50
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    So far I have liked Pedro's Synlube the best and have been using it since 94 or 95 when MBA had an article about Pedro's the company.

    Others I have tried in order from best to not so good:

    best
    Pedro's Synlube
    Pedro's J
    finish line wet
    Phil Wood Tenacious oil
    tri flow
    white lightning - original
    silicone spray
    wd-40
    worst


    I really want to try some Rock And Roll wet, heard some pretty good things about it.
    Last edited by rupps5; 04-03-2011 at 08:04 PM.

  51. #51
    Live 2 Ride
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    Wonder what ever happened to White Lightning.
    My Bike: '19 Liv Tempt 2
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  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim311
    This is my favorite as well. I do have to say though that I'll pretty much use whatever is free/cheap/easily available. In fact, now that I see some people are using bar/chain oil, I'm considering that as well, since it's something I have around the house. I was unaware that lots of people were using it though. Does it gunk up around the pulleys and stuff when it's exposed to dirt? A lot of the lower quality wet lubes do that and I don't care much for them for that reason.

    The key to using Finish Line Wet Lube is making sure you wipe of as much excess lube as possible. I will ussally let it soak over night and then spin the chain through a worn out sock for a minute or two. In summer I will use Finish Line Teflon Dry lube over top of the Finish Line wet lube to seal in the wet lube and reduce dirt attraction. It works very well.

  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by erik1245
    Surprised nobody else has mentioned it.... I like T9 Boeshield. It's viscous enough so that it actually stays in the chain. I used to use Tri-Flow until I realized it's like water, but I still use it on the parts that require the lube to travel a bit more, like the shifty bits.
    +1
    That is what I use as well.
    I HATE WORK, WORK IS BAD, WORK = NO BIKE, NO BIKE = NO GOOD.

  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChainChain
    How's the bar oil in dusty dry conditions?
    Applied correctly, better than any dry lube. Just wipe your chain down after the ride to remove any dust or sand. I tried several dry lubes when I lived in Las Vegas and not one could last more than about 10-15 miles (brands I remember using include Pedros, Finish Line, and Boeshield T-9). Sent a bottle of my mixture down with some fellow riders to try at the 24 Hours Of Old Pueblo. They did not need to relube at all during the race, simply wiped down the chain with a clean rag after their lap(s).

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChainChain
    How's the bar oil in dusty dry conditions?
    well, the stuff I use, and I assume others...(it's hard to judge multiple bar-oils with a gallon) has 'anti-stickin' properties.

    I know that sounds ridiculous, as it feels sticky and thick, but it really does work - meaning it attracts less than triflow, motor oil or anything else.

    I will do MTB72's mix (biodegradable)after I'm out... I'll be 72 then
    Last edited by highdelll; 04-03-2011 at 07:49 PM.
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by highdelll
    well, the stuff I use, and I assume others...(it's hard to judge multiple bar-oils with a gallon) has 'anti-stickin' properties.

    I know that sounds ridiculous, as it feels sticky and thick, but it really does work - meaning it attracts less than triflow, motor oil or anything else.
    Yep...think about what a chain saw does, cuts logs and blows saw dust. Think of the mess regular oil would create

    At the same time is doesn't fling off the chain at high RPM so it has no issue staying on a bicycle chain.

  57. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbiker72
    Yep...think about what a chain saw does, cuts logs and blows saw dust. Think of the mess regular oil would create

    At the same time is doesn't fling off the chain at high RPM so it has no issue staying on a bicycle chain.



    /\ This, can anyone think of a worse environment for a chain to work in?

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kona0197
    Wonder what ever happened to White Lightning.
    Well I figured out their original formula sucked balls back in 1996, not sure about any of their other formulas. As a rule of thumb, if you have to shake it up to get solid particles suspended...I won't use it.

  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZ.MTNS
    /\ This, can anyone think of a worse environment for a chain to work in?
    A trail bicycle or dirt motorcycle. IMO, dirt flung off a front tire and mud packing into the links and pins of the chain, plus metal to metal, is far worse than a saw's chain endures.

    Wood is clean cellulose and water, minimal minerals, nothing that rapidly grinds a chain nearly as rapidly. Chainsaw oil only needs to protect metal to metal of the chain itself, the wood's pulverized cellulose soaking in oil might even add chain protection.

  60. #60
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    Felling and cutting is not nearly as clean as you make it out to be.

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbiker72
    My homebrew (50/50 20w50 Bio Bar and Chain Oil and Canola Oil)

    Totally biodegradable, no toxic chemicals (Teflon or PTFE is TOXIC), and works as good or better than ANY lube I've ever used...and I've used a lot of them.
    Why the Canola Oil? Why not straight bar oil? Have you ever used ChainL? It is my favorite, and stay very clean if applied correctly. I live in Phoenix BTW.

    I lube about every 3 rides and have 4 bikes to lube, so ChainL goes pretty quickly. If I can make my own that ios on par with it, I'm all in...
    Employed by Pivot Cycles - www.pivotcycles.com

  62. #62
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    I've never cut a tree that was fresh from getting scrubbed down, every single one had lived it's whole life out in the elements and had grit, grime and general ick all over it....heck some woods even have a high silica content and play hell on sharp tooling...

    The thing to remember is that a saw chain gets a constant stream of lubrication from it's oil reservoir. Run it dry for an hour and you've likely ruined the bar, the chain and possibly the drive sprocket. It doesn't really compare to closely with a bicycle or a motorcycle IMO, but the chain lube still kicks ass as a bike chain lube.
    Quote Originally Posted by ridelikeafatkid
    "MOMMY, I WANT TO RIDE LIKE THAT FAT KID!" true story.

  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZ.MTNS
    Felling and cutting is not nearly as clean as you make it out to be.
    clearly
    ~Grew up in a forest fellin' trees
    Your #1 goal buckin' up logs is to not touch the earth...still happens ...
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by ProjectDan35
    Really? I seem to have that issue with Pro Link, chain gets noisy after a short time. How do you apply yours?
    I'm pretty much a fanatic about my drivetrain. I clean cogs,rings and D pulleys almost every ride and wipe down my chain before every ride prior to lubing. Apply generous amount of lube and then wipe off the excess.
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  65. #65
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    White Lightning Clean Ride works great for dirt. Dries to a light wax and cleans off easily. I bought a case of it 2 yrs ago for cheap and use it on every bike I touch(wife, kids, friends).
    '09 Specialized Rockhopper expert 29
    Born 26" trials
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  66. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by derby
    Squirt lube. Longest chain life by far in my 30 years of trail riding, used in rainy to baking hot days. I'm too lazy to clean my chain, ever. The water base doesn't remove the protective wax, dirt has minimal chance to contact and wear the metal.
    This. I use it exclusively on all our bikes, now. Doesn't pick up dirt like wet lubes and penetrates better than other wax based stuff I have tried.

  67. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by curtboroff
    White Lightning Clean Ride works great for dirt. Dries to a light wax and cleans off easily. I bought a case of it 2 yrs ago for cheap and use it on every bike I touch(wife, kids, friends).
    I like the Clean Ride, too. Lately, I've been using Dupont Dry Wax Lube from Lowes. It's cheap and seems to work as well.

  68. #68
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    Well, I tried the bar oil thing and came away thikning it was better than most, but still not as good as ChainL.

    I used the same method of applying the lube as i would with ChainL. I took the chain off, cleaned it well, let it dry then applied one drop per link. I let it set for about 30 minutes, then wiped it dry.

    The bar oil was easier to apply. It kept the chain very quiet even though it felt tacky it didn't attract much more dirt than ChainL. After one ride, I could hear the chain getting louder. Shifting wasn't as smooth either.

    With ChainL, I can get the chain drier, shifting is smoother and it lasts for 3-4 rides while being quieter the whole time. Another point I find with ChainL is that it seems to provide dampening to the chain. It seems when I quickly pedal from a stop, its, like the chain has rubber dampers between the links. Probably has something to do with the thickness of the lube.

    Overall, the bar oil would be my second choice. ChainL is still superior IMO, and I will gladly help out a guy trying to run a small business. Time to order up 4 more bottles
    Employed by Pivot Cycles - www.pivotcycles.com

  69. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by tiSS'er
    I used the same method of applying the lube as i would with ChainL. I took the chain off, cleaned it well, let it dry then applied one drop per link. I let it set for about 30 minutes, then wiped it dry.
    Did you not run it through the gears a bit before wiping it off?

  70. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by Berkeley Mike
    Did you not run it through the gears a bit before wiping it off?
    Yes, I wipe it down several times after a fresh lube.
    Employed by Pivot Cycles - www.pivotcycles.com

  71. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by tiSS'er
    Yes, I wipe it down several times after a fresh lube.
    I don't think that's what he meant. I can't remember if the Chain-L instructions specify this or not, but I've found it helpful to (after the lube has had that time to just sit and soak in) put the chain back on the bike if it isn't already and slowly turn the drivetrain by hand for a minute or two. I wipe it down only after I've done that. The slow motion of the pins and bushings and such seems to help get the lube where it needs to be and makes me have to relube less often

  72. #72
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    I am another convert to chain and bar oil.

    I used to use fancy high priced chain lubes like the ceramics, waxes etc etc.

    bottle of bar oil, lubricates better than all of them.

    I have two rags, one soaked with oil, one occasioanlly cleaned.
    end of every ride (ok who am I kidding, every few rides, or even weeks) I wipe with clean rag, then oily rag, then clean rag again. Takes 1 minute.

    Best lube ever, proffesional tradesman stuff over bike crap any day.

    a few quid a litre is nice too.

    I still use the fancy lubes for the rest of the bike, but bar oil is designed for chains and is very good at it.
    Why would I care about 150g of bike weight, I just ate 400g of cookies while reading this?

  73. #73
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    The golden rule of chain lube, If it settles it's crap. I've spent my life as a cyclist and wrenched professionally for a good chunk of it, have yet to find an exception to that rule.

    I think more importantly that what lube you are using is how you apply it. If you slather on a bunch of anything it's going to turn into a mess. If your meticulous with your application you can get bar oil ot be a reasonable clean endeavor.

  74. #74
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    Bar & Chain oil (chainsaw oil)

    I switched 2 years ago, from TriFlow or Park CL-1. I was spending much time cleaning the chain pre-lube, especially on my dirt bike. I still got stretch. 1K miles was the limit for my dirt chain due to stretch. (dusty No. Cal. rides) Sometimes much less.

    After >7K miles using chainsaw oil, I still replace the dirt chain q1K, but just out of precaution since there's less than 1/16" stretch then. I plan to try for 2K on my current chain as I watch the stretch...
    My current road chain has 4K miles w/less than 1/16" stretch, so I'm not replacing it yet.

    After each dirt ride, or q250 miles on the road bike, I remove the chain (optional), run a line of lube down the clean side of the rollers, yoyo it in for a moment, then wipe down w/dry rag. I never clean the chains otherwise.

    I clean the drivetrain on the dirt bike q/1K miles, and on the roadie q2K. There's a lot of gunk on the cluster & rings, perhaps more than with the other lubes. The bikes run very quietly with chainsaw lube. I've noticed no diff in shifting.

  75. #75
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    I've started using the Honda brand motorcycle chain lube. It's a teflon/wax based lube much like the DuPont chain lube, but with a bunch of molybdenum disulfide in it. Doesn't attract any thing. Very clean, the chain looks nearly new after a few applications. Water pretty much kills it though.
    '01 Schwinn HG Comp - '12 Giant Defy 1 - '14 Kona JtS - '18 Rocky Mtn Altitude A30 - '19 Scott Spark RC Team

  76. #76
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    After almost 30 years of Mountain biking I'll use pretty much anything. I've never run into a chain lube that I thought was heads and shoulders above everything else. They all have their pluses and minuses. Your drive train will get dirty and grimy no matter what you use if you ride off road a lot. For me the key is cleaning my bike, especially my drive train as much as possible and re-lubing with whatever I have.

  77. #77
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    Look elsewhere than bicycle department.
    Bike lubes are expensive and hardly work
    .

    Just get to know what the dirt bike and ATV guys are using.

    DuPont Chain Saver Put the chain in cat litter
    The 11OZ Chain Saver spray (in a rattle can) cost $7 + $9 FedEX shipment.

    It cleans the chain, rubber and plastic friendly and doesn't attract dirt.
    I use it to spray on derailleurs and on my SPD pedal too. Before I go
    out to ride in the mud, I spray my bike frame (titanium with no paint)
    and watch how the whole bike will repel mud during the ride.

  78. #78
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    If you are going to use that just buy dupont teflon multi-use lubricant at lowes or ace for $5 a can and save a bunch of money. It's the same stuff.


    Quote Originally Posted by uzisuicide
    Look elsewhere than bicycle department.
    Bike lubes are expensive and hardly work
    .

    Just get to know what the dirt bike and ATV guys are using.

    DuPont Chain Saver Put the chain in cat litter
    The 11OZ Chain Saver spray (in a rattle can) cost $7 + $9 FedEX shipment.

    It cleans the chain, rubber and plastic friendly and doesn't attract dirt.
    I use it to spray on derailleurs and on my SPD pedal too. Before I go
    out to ride in the mud, I spray my bike frame (titanium with no paint)
    and watch how the whole bike will repel mud during the ride.
    Get a bicycle. You will certainly not regret it, if you live. --Mark Twain

  79. #79
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    Rock n Roll EXTREME!!!


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    Click the below link... it's my newest post

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