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  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: telemike's Avatar
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    What the H is this?

    I have a specialized FSR XC Expert 26er that I take on trips that are not primarily mtb trips. It sits on the rack while we're hiking, paddling, etc rather than my newer 27.5+.

    The freehub recently developed intermittant skipping so I decided to remove the freehub and clean or replace it. When I tried to remove the axle, I found the following weird setup instead of the expected cone/locknut setup. I've loosened the allen grub screw and tried to unscrew or pull off the visible housing with no luck. I didn't want to go too far and destroy anything.

    Someone here must know about this hub and how to disassemble it. HELP!

    What the H is this?-0613181809a.jpg

    PS: The bike was not cheap and but the hubs were horrible. The front got grunchy and I disassembled it (normal cone and locknut). But, Specialized offers no parts to fix it.

    Come on specialized. It's a cheap no name hub marketed as a hi/low hub. Fixing things is part of the deal! I'll never buy another specialized bike. You've lost me as a customer. Why do I have to buy an expensive bike, then replace the rotten avid brakes and the cheap hubs? I'd rather pay a bit more in the first place and get good components from the get go. The price point is the ultimate price to get the bike the way I want it, not the minimized price point that specialized is aiming for.
    My mantra: Hike, Bike, Paddle, Ski

  2. #2
    One ring to mash them all
    Reputation: the one ring's Avatar
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    https://www.bikeradar.com/forums/vie...php?t=13089949

    Not extremely helpful but it appears to be your hub, and one comment says the end cap should pull off. Maybe wrap the end cap in some leather (glove) and get busy with a pair of channel locks?
    A plateau is the highest form of flattery.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: telemike's Avatar
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    The pics look just like my hub. Interestingly, the front and rear are different with a normal cone/locknut on the front. Just don't lose the cone because spec doesn't bother with spare parts on this hub. Great service!
    My mantra: Hike, Bike, Paddle, Ski

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Lone Rager's Avatar
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    I'm not familiar with that specific hub, but I've seen others with a set screw like that where you loosen the set screw and the cap unscrews from the axle. If there aren't internal hexes for allen wrenches, you might need to grab both ends with pliers to turn them.
    Do the math.

  5. #5
    EAT MORE GRIME
    Reputation: 127.0.0.1's Avatar
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    it's slightly corroded and fused

    you need to do something like this


    -loosen the grub screw
    -apply some lube or penetrant
    -pop that off with a slide hammer
    [or macgyver up a sort of slide hammer with what you got]

    obviously if that cap unscrews, don't do this.
    "Put your seatbelt back on or get out and sit in the middle of that circle of death." - Johnny Scoot

  6. #6
    Mudhorse
    Reputation: Grassington's Avatar
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    If you've got access to a bench vice, here's how to get at least one endcap off easily:

    1. Remove the rotor. This might not be strictly necessary, but it prevents bent rotors and slashed knuckles.
    2. Remove the endcap grub screws.
    3. Clamp one endcap in the vice. Use soft vice jaws/bits of wood/bits of tyre/bits of leather to prevent the endcap getting chewed up by the vice jaws.
    4. Use a plumber's wrench (Stillsons) or similar self-tightening tool to wrench the other end cap. At least one of the end caps should now come unstuck.
    5. Clamp the loosened endcap in the vice (as above) and wiggle the wheel to get it off.
    6. If the other endcap is still stuck fast then that's going to be trickier to get off. Try clamping in the vice and wiggling the wheel. If that doesn't work, try tightening the vice to distort the endcap to break the corrosion, then slacken the vice again so it grips the endcap sufficiently without clamping it hard to the axle. You might be able to clamp one end of the axle; if so then it may be worthwhile improvising a vice clamp by drilling a hole in a bit of wood to the same diameter of the axle, then cutting the bit of wood down the middle (use a wide saw to create a bit of a gap, or shave the wood down a bit).
    7. Once you've got the endcaps off, clean up the corrosion with Scotchbrite or similar and grease up the mating surfaces before reassembly. Assembly compound, anti-fretting compound or copper grease are ideal, but any grease is better than no grease.


    Galvanic corrosion is a right git, and the crystals of aluminium oxide can grow so they exert enormous pressure between the mated surfaces, sometimes to the extent that the parts are now effectively permanently bonded. I have never found penetrating fluid or easing oil even slightly effective here, though that sometimes works with good old fashioned iron oxide rust.
    Hose me down till the water runs clear.

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