Road handlebars for hardtail MTB- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Road handlebars for hardtail MTB

    I have a Hardrock that I put slicks on for road riding. The straight bars suck for long distances. What handlebars would you recommend for this bike? Also, what will have to change as far as brakes and gears?

    It currently has Avid BB5 disc brakes and Shimano shifters.

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    spec4life???..smh...
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    could try these and not change a thing...

    http://www.amazon.com/Origin-Bicycle.../dp/B0013G6PB8

  3. #3
    The Punk Hucker
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    Those extension are sweet to convert a hardtail to touring bike.
    Beware the hucking bear!

  4. #4
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    That's a major overhaul - you'd be better off getting a second bike.

    If you insist on doing the swap, you'll need:
    1. Handlebars (Salsa Bell Lap are nice)
    2. New stem (shorter and with 26.0mm or 31.8mm clamp depending on new bars)
    3. Brake levers (need longer cable pull, DiaCompe, Tektro, and Cane Creek make these levers for V-brakes and mountain bike cable disc brakes)
    4. Bar-end shifters
    5. Handlebar tape
    6. Cables and housing

    STI combined shifter/brake levers are too expensive and won't work with your front derailleur or your brakes.

  5. #5
    The Punk Hucker
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thor29
    That's a major overhaul - you'd be better off getting a second bike.

    If you insist on doing the swap, you'll need:
    1. Handlebars (Salsa Bell Lap are nice)
    2. New stem (shorter and with 26.0mm or 31.8mm clamp depending on new bars)
    3. Brake levers (need longer cable pull, DiaCompe, Tektro, and Cane Creek make these levers for V-brakes and mountain bike cable disc brakes)
    4. Bar-end shifters
    5. Handlebar tape
    6. Cables and housing

    STI combined shifter/brake levers are too expensive and won't work with your front derailleur or your brakes.
    A second bike just to change the cockpit??? Might be a bit too much, no?

    I would just go with extensions of some sort...
    Beware the hucking bear!

  6. #6
    Misses elastomer shocks
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    STI shifters should work just fine with your derailleurs and your brakes. Road calipers have the same pull as cantilevers which should have the same pull as mechanical disks. v-brakes (linear pull) are the only ones in my experience to use long pull levers. Thats how you can run CX bikes with disks.

    I will agree, however, that they are expensive.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by suprcivic
    STI shifters should work just fine with your derailleurs and your brakes. Road calipers have the same pull as cantilevers which should have the same pull as mechanical disks. v-brakes (linear pull) are the only ones in my experience to use long pull levers. Thats how you can run CX bikes with disks.

    I will agree, however, that they are expensive.
    That's not true. The cable pull on front derailleurs is different between road and mountain. Also, there is a reason that Avid BB7s come in both a "road" and a "mountain" version. Mountain bike disc brakes have the same cable pull as V-brakes and use the same levers.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by PissedOffCil
    A second bike just to change the cockpit??? Might be a bit too much, no?

    I would just go with extensions of some sort...
    You're misunderstanding me. I am saying that it doesn't make sense to put drop bars on this bike given the cost of the conversion and the value of the bike. Adding bar ends or those Origin-8 extensions is not the same as switching to drop bars.

  9. #9
    Live 2 Ride
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    Ask Shiggy. He rides dropbars.
    My Bike: '19 Liv Tempt 2
    My Blog: http://http://kona0197.wordpress.com/

  10. #10
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    Its not that hard to do. You can probably get most of the parts used for cheep. I'm actually in the middle of doing this myself. I have most of the parts laying around already. I have to get a pare of leavers for V brakes. http://store.canecreek.com/products/...0.56301.0.0.0?

    And http://www.paulcomp.com/rdthumbie.html to convert thumb shifters. Who cares about if the bike is worth doing it to. Don't let people tell you a bike isn't worth doing this kind of thing to. I have parts that have been on 3 or 4 different bikes. Its fun to do different things and it never hurts to have parts for the next build.
    Last edited by pulser; 03-26-2010 at 09:43 AM.

  11. #11
    Misses elastomer shocks
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    That's not true. The cable pull on front derailleurs is different between road and mountain. Also, there is a reason that Avid BB7s come in both a "road" and a "mountain" version. Mountain bike disc brakes have the same cable pull as V-brakes and use the same levers.
    i'll give you the disk brakes, but i'm not giving in on the FD. I have done it myself and seen it done. go check out the guys running a 2x9 setup. the love to use an XTR crank and shifter with a dura ace FD. if it works with a mtn shifter and road derailleur, why won't it work with a road shifter and mtn derailleur?
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by suprcivic
    i'll give you the disk brakes, but i'm not giving in on the FD. I have done it myself and seen it done. go check out the guys running a 2x9 setup. the love to use an XTR crank and shifter with a dura ace FD. if it works with a mtn shifter and road derailleur, why won't it work with a road shifter and mtn derailleur?
    You can do it if you use bar-end shifters in friction mode. However, the indexing is different. Shimano even makes special shifters to work on flat bars with road derailleurs (see the R440 for instance). Because of this, you would have to replace the front derailleur to use STI shift/brake levers on a mountain bike.


    From Harris Cyclery/Sheldon Brown (sic):

    The ratio of cable movement to derailer movement differs with Shimano's "road" vs. "MTB" front derailers. This can cause indexing problems if you use a "road" front derailer with upright handlebars or a "MTB" front derailer with drop handlebars.

  13. #13
    Rod
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kona0197
    Ask Shiggy. He rides dropbars.
    I agree with Konda.

  14. #14
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    If you compare top tube lengths, mountain bikes are longer at every size than road bikes. The reason for that is that drop bars put the brake hoods, which are the principal hand position for most road riders, a lot further forward of the steer tube than the grips on a mountain bike. Obviously it can be done, and depending on how your built and how the bike is sized you may even prefer it.

    If you like the fit of the bike now and you're not using a super-long stem, you'll probably be pretty unhappy with a drop bar conversion. I find bar ends to be a really nice alternative for a better road/climbing position. They're also cheap.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  15. #15
    dru
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thor29
    That's a major overhaul - you'd be better off getting a second bike.

    If you insist on doing the swap, you'll need:
    1. Handlebars (Salsa Bell Lap are nice)
    2. New stem (shorter and with 26.0mm or 31.8mm clamp depending on new bars)
    3. Brake levers (need longer cable pull, DiaCompe, Tektro, and Cane Creek make these levers for V-brakes and mountain bike cable disc brakes)
    4. Bar-end shifters
    5. Handlebar tape
    6. Cables and housing

    STI combined shifter/brake levers are too expensive and won't work with your front derailleur or your brakes.
    Well said, although I don't think I'd call it a major overhaul. My El Mariachi is more or less converted this way. I set things up so I can change everything back to mountain in about an hour.

    Doing this required a dedicated set of brakes, a shifter, stem, and bars. The controls come off in one go. The bike is Alfine equipped so changing the gearing is as simple as changing sprockets. Swap the tires back and I'm done.

    Getting the correct fit requires a much shorter stem than mountain because of the longer mountain TT length. For instance I went from 120mm 6 deg. to 65mm 40 deg. This may be a deal breaker for the OP.

    Drew
    occasional cyclist

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