Going tubeless D.I.Y. tips.- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    We the people ... Going tubeless D.I.Y. tips.

    Looked around but if this does exist and I missed it please excuse me.
    I'm a first timer going tubeless.
    I've seen the video on "Stan's" and read little bits here and there.

    Thinking a thread of all tips for anybody getting ready to do tubeless for the first time would be helpful.

    List any tips for people with tubeless ready wheels & also for those useing tubless convert kits.

    The wheelset I am useing are the Shimano XTR WH-M975 tubeless ready.

    Any wisdom and tips on the process would be awesome

  2. #2
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    Here are a couple of tips from someone who has set up quite a few wheels tubeless (but always using either UST or "tubeless compatible" rims):

    - follow the procedure on Stans website, particularly lubing up the beads with soap suds and their procedure for shaking the fluid around to get it sealed up.

    - If it is a new tire, put a tube in it, pump it up, and let it sit overnight to "shape" it.

    - Have an air compressor, or a friend with one. I've been hit or miss on my ability to seat the bead with a floor pump. It's much easier to get it on with a compressor and a valve stem with removable core. That way you can get air in faster than it leaks out.

  3. #3
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    I have been going the evil ghetto tubeless route with a 20" tube and stans sealant. Air compressor helps a lot and just remember that some tires just won't mount up tubeless.

    Learned something the other day when descending a very, very steep, slippery hill on my cyclocross bike - my rims got so hot (it was also around 90 degrees that day), my ghetto tubeless rim strip failed me. - threw in a tube and finished my ride.

    Never had it happen on my disc brake bikes, though.

    I would advise to try and use UST tires whenever possible (the sidewalls are much stronger) even though most "regular" tires work tubeless. The warranties on tires not meant for tubless set-ups are most often voided - so just a word to the tubeless n00bs.

  4. #4
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  5. #5
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    Get the tire seated in the rim strip, put sealant in the tire. Smear (with a finger) both beads with sealant all the way around on both sides and really get things good and messy. Try putting a little air in, then stop. Massage all the way around the tire, pressing it into the rims strip. Wait a couple minutes. Inflate.

    Haven't had an issue getting tires to go up with a track pump this way first go.

    Disclaimer: this applies to my own experience only with CaffeLatex and a split tube on fairly wide rims. YMMV with sealant choice and method.
    For me, riding bikes is not a hobby, it is a way of life.
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  6. #6
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    Over the years I have tried every method out there. Rim strips, cut tubes, and Gorilla tape. All have worked but all have had there own issue's and quirks. Most of the problems can be traced back to the shape of the rim therefore the best advise I can give you although perhaps not the cheapest is to buy a set of rims built for tubeless such as Stan's or Sun Ringle's. They will come factory taped with valves installed and will setup almost any tire in 5 minutes.

    Now I realize this trumps good ole Yankee ingenuity but the ease of setup and the lack of frustration will more than out way the cost

  7. #7
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    Hey how often do you have to refill the tyre with stans sealant?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by stephanmoll View Post
    Hey how often do you have to refill the tyre with stans sealant?
    Sometimes, you will grow a serious alien life form when the sealant dries up.

    http://www.dionridesbikes.com/2010/0...eless-set.html

    Mine happened when I mixed Slime, radiator coolant and Stan's together but I have had this happen to me with Stan's sealant, alone.

    Like I said in my previous post, some tires are a little more porous than others and sealant will tend to dry up in those - again, better when you use a true UST tire.

    In January of this year, I mounted Schawlbe Big Apples tubeless and today I went back to knobbies. Come to find out, the sealant was nice and flowing when I popped open the Big Apples - proving that it was not-as-porous as other tires I've mounted tubeless. I'm thinking it has to do with their solid casing for puncture resistance.

    If you're more concerned with thorns and such rather than ultra-low air pressures and other rolling benefits of tubeless, try converting your rim to be Schrader valve compatible, use Schrader tubes, remove the core and just squirt sealant in the tube. You still get the thorn protection without having to go through the worries of a non-UST tire popping off the rim (which can happen and does to the few unfortunate).

    My buddy broke his arm when his non-UST tire, mounted with a Stan's kit, popped off his rim. He only uses UST tires, now. Doesn't happen to everybody, but it can happen. He gets pararnoid knowing that I use non-UST tires.

  9. #9
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    If those are UST wheels you don't need to do anything odd.

    Put the tire on, make sure it is seated all the way around and pump it up with a floor pump.

    If you are using stans remove the valve stem and put some in with a hand injector.

    You don't need a compressor nor any rim tape.
    Nobody cares...........

  10. #10
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    Regarding the tube tip to help shape the tire: whenever I've had a new tire that was being a bit stubborn, no wait was necessary after inflating the tire to max psi with a tube. It's possible some tires may need more time with the tube, however. Part of this may be that I use only non-UST tires.

    The reason I use non-UST tires is that they're lighter, and less expensive. Some of the weight savings is in the sidewalls, and while this may be quite undesireable for some styles of riding, I ride primarily XC, and the thin sidewalls conform to the terrain better at any given pressure than thicker sidewalls. It is key, however, to check your pressure before every ride. I've never had a tire come off the rim, and the only time I've ever burped is when I allowed the pressure to be too low. I've run both converted rims (Stan's conversion on DT Swiss 4.2D) and tubeless rims.

    I run a Panaracer Dart/Smoke combo, and I've never had a sidewall failure. I run a Nevegal on the front of my trail bike and I've had nothing but good results with those as well.

    Carry some paper towels on the trail with you if you run sealant. Your hands will get messy if you have to perform a repair.

    Avoid leaving your bike inside a hot vehicle if you use sealant in non-UST tires. Because of the more porous sidewalls, the heat can cause your sealant to disappear in a hurry.

    Every tire/rim combo is going to behave slightly different. If you run non-UST tires or a converted setup, make sure to build some trust in the setup before making assumptions about the setup's limits.

    Sealant can only do its job when it's getting sloshed around in the tire. If a new setup seems to be leaking too quickly (as in 1 or 2 psi/hour - do not ride the setup if it's leaking faster than this), taking the bike for a ride is sometimes the best way to get it fully sealed. Riding the bike also stretches the rubber and allows more sealant into the pores. My setups typically leak about 2psi per day (@28 psi - recall that these are thin sidewalls, so it feels like less pressure), but they will sometimes leak double that before the first ride or two.

    I think this is by far the best tubeless tip: tubeless is not for everyone.

    -Pete
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  11. #11
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    I used non-UST rims and UST tires.

    Gorilla tape as the rim strip (cut down to size once in place). Schrader valve cut from a Continental inner tube (this and the Shwalbe tubes have fully threaded schrader valve stems). I put some caulk around the base of the stem, seated it in the rim and tightened it down.

    Installed the UST tire and lightly misted the beads with soapy water. Used an air compressor to seat the tire.

    Removed the valve core and added 4 oz of Slime for Tubeless Tires. Replaced core and aired it up to 50psi. Rode around the neighborhood for awhile to spread out the Slime.

    Dropped pressure to 30psi rear and 27psi front. I only loose 1-2lbs a week. Works great and I'm very happy with the results.

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