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  1. #401
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    Quote Originally Posted by depeche4 View Post
    Thanks Mike, will do. Hopefully by the end of next week the XL is here.
    Are you in Calgary too? I may need to bug you at some point to sit on the XL.

  2. #402
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    Quote Originally Posted by robnow View Post
    Are you in Calgary too? I may need to bug you at some point to sit on the XL.
    Sorry, nope, in Ontario.

  3. #403
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    Quote Originally Posted by robnow View Post
    Are you in Calgary too? I may need to bug you at some point to sit on the XL.
    The guys at Inside Line have their bikes in Calgary - no idea if they have an XL though.
    https://theinsideline.ca

  4. #404
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    My XL just showed up, thanks to Cam at the inside line for getting me one these. I did not realize the XL run was so small, so I glad it worked out. Now I just need some parts and my ride wrap and I get get building.

  5. #405
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    Anyone have a mileage/hours logged on their druid? 3000+ miles? and any maintenance done? I know the idler pulleys have been an issue but there is an updated version released.

  6. #406
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    Well, my large gloss moss is on the way (there are too many black bikes in the world for my taste)! Stoked to be joining the club. What are people running for sag, and any advice on baseline damping?

  7. #407
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pmrmusic26 View Post
    Anyone have a mileage/hours logged on their druid? 3000+ miles? and any maintenance done? I know the idler pulleys have been an issue but there is an updated version released.
    We're actually considering doing a run of after market Stainless Steel idler pulleys. Aimed at people putting high mileage on their Druids. Is that something you guys would be interested in?

    I was working on the design yesterday and I think I can keep the weight increase down to around 20 grams.

    Owen

  8. #408
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mgrantorser View Post
    Well, my large gloss moss is on the way (there are too many black bikes in the world for my taste)! Stoked to be joining the club. What are people running for sag, and any advice on baseline damping?
    Welcome aboard!

    Aim for 17mm to 19mm measured sag. Most people seem to prefer close to 19mm.

    Unless you're heavy you'll probably run the compression circuit on the DPX2 almost fully open.

  9. #409
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    Interested in the pulley. PNW year-round wet riding always has me on the lookout for wear on the drivetrain.
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  10. #410
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    Quote Originally Posted by ForbiddenBikeCo View Post
    We're actually considering doing a run of after market Stainless Steel idler pulleys. Aimed at people putting high mileage on their Druids. Is that something you guys would be interested in?

    I was working on the design yesterday and I think I can keep the weight increase down to around 20 grams.

    Owen
    Sign me up please.
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  11. #411
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    Quote Originally Posted by ForbiddenBikeCo View Post
    We're actually considering doing a run of after market Stainless Steel idler pulleys. Aimed at people putting high mileage on their Druids. Is that something you guys would be interested in?

    I was working on the design yesterday and I think I can keep the weight increase down to around 20 grams.

    Owen
    Shimano 12spd version for me! If it's just standard/SRAM narrow/wide, I can't use it.

  12. #412
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    Count me in.

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  14. #414
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    Quote Originally Posted by ForbiddenBikeCo View Post
    We're actually considering doing a run of after market Stainless Steel idler pulleys. Aimed at people putting high mileage on their Druids. Is that something you guys would be interested in?

    I was working on the design yesterday and I think I can keep the weight increase down to around 20 grams.

    Owen
    I would be extremely interested. I would estimate that I am going to put maybe 3500-4000 miles on a Druid this year. Would this be something that would be cross compatible with Shimano and Sram 12 speeds?

  15. #415
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    Quote Originally Posted by ForbiddenBikeCo View Post
    We're actually considering doing a run of after market Stainless Steel idler pulleys. Aimed at people putting high mileage on their Druids. Is that something you guys would be interested in?

    I was working on the design yesterday and I think I can keep the weight increase down to around 20 grams.

    Owen
    Please sign me up. Loving my druid....

  16. #416
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    My XL moss frame came in yesterday. Holy balls, I thought the pics were sweet ...

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  17. #417
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    Forbidden Bike Co Druid

    Iíve been holding off on posting my new XL hoping Iíd get some more saddle time, but the weather has not been cooperating. Figured Iíd just throw some stoke out anyway. One short ride on this rig but covered some bases. Hit some decent drops, tight technical and some punchy climbs on my local rock infested trails. This bike does not disappoint. Soaked up way more square hits than its 130 suggests. Surprisingly nimble, even with the increase in wb for me. Iím coming off an Evil Insurgent. The pedaling was way smoother and composed than I was anticipating. One ride in and Iím smitten.

  18. #418
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    Quote Originally Posted by jwick View Post
    Iíve been holding off on posting my new XL hoping Iíd get some more saddle time, but the weather has not been cooperating. Figured Iíd just throw some stoke out anyway. One short ride on this rig but covered some bases. Hit some decent drops, tight technical and some punchy climbs on my local rock infested trails. This bike does not disappoint. Soaked up way more square hits than its 130 suggests. Surprisingly nimble, even with the increase in wb for me. Iím coming off an Evil Insurgent. The pedaling was way smoother and composed than I was anticipating. One ride in and Iím smitten.
    Awesome. Congrats!

    Consider experimenting a bit with the PSI in your DPX2.

    I am 185 lbs unclothed and had set the PSI WAY too high initially, in accordance with my rough measurement of the sag. I was at 225 PSI initially. I borrowed 2 ShockWizes and dropped it to 195 (LSC at 0, rebound at 4 clicks from open). MUCH better.

    Then I watched this:



    Based on the comments in that video, I tried dropping it to 175. Really good as well. I rode that way for a while and enjoyed it. But then I went a couple of weeks on my hardtail exclusively and when I got back on the Druid, the ass end felt a little wallowy so I went back up to 195, where it has remained to date. Anyway, anywhere between 175 and 195 works well for me.

    There doesn't seem to be a bunch of micro-fiddling necessary with the Druid to find some exceedingly narrow sweet spot, which has been the case with a few other bikes I have owned.

    Don't be afraid to bring a shock pump on the trail and play around with it.

    All that said, I threw down on an 11-6, partly because nobody could stop the micro-squeaking in that DPX2 (which almost drove me insane), and partly because the 11-6 was 40% off. I am still waiting for the 11-6 to arrive but when it does, I am going to install it and as well, replace my FIT4 damper with a GRIP2 and install a Luftkappe. Apart from the squeaking, there really is no good reason for me to have moved to the 11-6. If I don't like it as much, I will quickly re-install the DPX2, because it kicked ass.

    Anyway, have fun. It took me a a few epic rides to get used to pulling the front end up and a few other things, but once I did, I found heaven on wheels. I am hard pressed to find any weaknesses.

    If you have time, report back again once you have had a bit more time in the saddle. I will be interested to hear your comments.
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  19. #419
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    Quote Originally Posted by aggrodude View Post
    Please sign me up. Loving my druid....
    Dude - that looks killer.
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  20. #420
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    Quote Originally Posted by jwick View Post
    Iíve been holding off on posting my new XL hoping Iíd get some more saddle time, but the weather has not been cooperating. Figured Iíd just throw some stoke out anyway. One short ride on this rig but covered some bases. Hit some decent drops, tight technical and some punchy climbs on my local rock infested trails. This bike does not disappoint. Soaked up way more square hits than its 130 suggests. Surprisingly nimble, even with the increase in wb for me. Iím coming off an Evil Insurgent. The pedaling was way smoother and composed than I was anticipating. One ride in and Iím smitten.


    Looks great! Love the orange accents. You still on 11 speed shimano or is is that a 11 speed with a WT 12 speed ring?

  21. #421
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    Quote Originally Posted by depeche4 View Post
    Looks great! Love the orange accents. You still on 11 speed shimano or is is that a 11 speed with a WT 12 speed ring?
    How is your build coming? Any pics yet?
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  22. #422
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    Quote Originally Posted by depeche4 View Post
    Looks great! Love the orange accents. You still on 11 speed shimano or is is that a 11 speed with a WT 12 speed ring?
    Thatís all 11 speed. I hear nothing but great things about Shimanoís 12 but for the price and my Hadley rear without the micro spline the 11 has always treated me well. Iím sure Iíll upgrade to the 12 at some point.

    For whatís its worth Iím running my body weight (205 psi) on the DPX2 and it feels pretty spot on. Iíve read the whole thread and seen the vids. That seemed like a good place to start.

  23. #423
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    Quote Originally Posted by jwick View Post
    Thatís all 11 speed. I hear nothing but great things about Shimanoís 12 but for the price and my Hadley rear without the micro spline the 11 has always treated me well. Iím sure Iíll upgrade to the 12 at some point.

    For whatís its worth Iím running my body weight (205 psi) on the DPX2 and it feels pretty spot on. Iíve read the whole thread and seen the vids. That seemed like a good place to start.
    I'm running 11 speed Shimano on my Honzo and Unit. Great drivetrain. I much prefer it to my XO Eagle drivetrain on my Druid. I'm done with SRAM.

    And yeah - body weight (or a touch more, depending on your riding weight) seems like a good place to start.
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  24. #424
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    Quote Originally Posted by depeche4 View Post
    Looks great! Love the orange accents. You still on 11 speed shimano or is is that a 11 speed with a WT 12 speed ring?
    For Mike,

    Everything is still sitting in its boxes. I ordered my ride wrap and I need to get a headset. As well I need an 150 air shaft for my fox 36.

    What are the majority of people running? 140 or 150 up front?

    Dave

  25. #425
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    Quote Originally Posted by depeche4 View Post
    For Mike,

    Everything is still sitting in its boxes. I ordered my ride wrap and I need to get a headset. As well I need an 150 air shaft for my fox 36.

    What are the majority of people running? 140 or 150 up front?

    Dave
    Iím at 150 and it almost feels like 160 wouldnít be bad. Definitely leaving it at 150 until I get more ride time though. Climbs without wandering at 150 and the rear is so capable Iíd rather not turn the volume down descending by running 140.

  26. #426
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    Quote Originally Posted by depeche4 View Post
    For Mike,

    Everything is still sitting in its boxes. I ordered my ride wrap and I need to get a headset. As well I need an 150 air shaft for my fox 36.

    What are the majority of people running? 140 or 150 up front?

    Dave
    150. My comments are the same as jwickís. I too converted a 140 36 to 150 and have not looked back.

    For a contrary view re the 140-150 decision, see the video above in post #418. This is one of the only comments I have seen anywhere by anyone suggesting 140 may be optimal. To be honest, with that comment the reviewer lost a little of the gravitas that he otherwise had with me. Given the choice, I canít think of a single reason why I would prefer 140 over 150. Not even one. As a bonus, the 150 raised the stack a little bit (I like riding high in the front).

    The weak link by far in my suspension is the fork, even at 150. It needs attention. Hence the FIT4 to GRIP2 damper conversion and installation of the Luftkappe, that will be happening soon. If that doesnít do it, next step will be to consider a coil conversion option, either from Push or Vorsprung.

    PM me if you have any issues with the RideWrap. I did 2 tailored kits in a row - a matte one on my Druid, and then a gloss one on my Honzo. FWIW, I my be able to offer you a few tips and tricks that I learned in the course of all the madness.
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  27. #427
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    150. My comments are the same as jwickís. I too converted a 140 36 to 150 and have not looked back.

    For a contrary view re the 140-150 decision, see the video above in post #418. This is one of the only comments I have seen anywhere by anyone suggesting 140 may be optimal. To be honest, with that comment the reviewer lost a little of the gravitas that he otherwise had with me. Given the choice, I canít think of a single reason why I would prefer 140 over 150. Not even one. As a bonus, the 150 raised the stack a little bit (I like riding high in the front).

    The weak link by far in my suspension is the fork, even at 150. It needs attention. Hence the FIT4 to GRIP2 damper conversion and installation of the Luftkappe, that will be happening soon. If that doesnít do it, next step will be to consider a coil conversion option, either from Push or Vorsprung.

    PM me if you have any issues with the RideWrap. I did 2 tailored kits in a row - a matte one on my Druid, and then a gloss one on my Honzo. FWIW, I my be able to offer you a few tips and tricks that I learned in the course of all the madness.
    I might hit you up about the wrap. I have done all my bikes before but just with 3M and then I measured everything out. Having it all cut for you seems like heaven. My 36 is a Grip 2, when I was ordering it for my Pole the guys at worldwide cyclery mentioned that it was far superior to the FIT 4.

  28. #428
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    160 up front, going for it. Rear is so good I think it will only make it better. Trying it tomorow, the rear end feels like a 150 bike going downhill.


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  29. #429
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    Anyone try running an angleset headset with a 140 or 150mm fork?

  30. #430
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    Hey Guys ó I have just built up my Druid frame with an all new Shimano XT 12 speed drivetrain and I canít pedal on the smallest cog under load without skipping. Shifting is smooth across the entire range of cogs and so is pedaling with exception of the 10 tooth. I have checked and rechecked my limit screws, B limit, cable tension, chain for sticky links, and performed a visual inspection of the chain line. I have successfully set up many drivetrains in the past and I even contacted Shimano and they sent a new cog under warranty to no avail. The only thing that seems questionable is the fact that the chain rests on the chainstay protector and it may affect the elevation of the chain relative to the cogís teeth? Not sure if there is any validity to this when actually applying force but I thought it was worth noting. I am running the 10-51 T microspline version with no spacer on the back of the cassette and I added 4 links to the 126 link chain as recommended for an XL frame. Do you guys have any recommendations?? Iím at witsĎ end!

  31. #431
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastdonkey View Post
    Hey Guys ó I have just built up my Druid frame with an all new Shimano XT 12 speed drivetrain and I canít pedal on the smallest cog under load without skipping. Shifting is smooth across the entire range of cogs and so is pedaling with exception of the 10 tooth. I have checked and rechecked my limit screws, B limit, cable tension, chain for sticky links, and performed a visual inspection of the chain line. I have successfully set up many drivetrains in the past and I even contacted Shimano and they sent a new cog under warranty to no avail. The only thing that seems questionable is the fact that the chain rests on the chainstay protector and it may affect the elevation of the chain relative to the cogís teeth? Not sure if there is any validity to this when actually applying force but I thought it was worth noting. I am running the 10-51 T microspline version with no spacer on the back of the cassette and I added 4 links to the 126 link chain as recommended for an XL frame. Do you guys have any recommendations?? Iím at witsĎ end!
    There is a post in a different thread suggesting a similar problem with a large frame. My chain with a 30 tooth ring and Eagle XO drivetrain on my large frame does not contact the chain stay protector (although I have struggled badly with that drivetrain for other reasons).

    How big is your ring?
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  32. #432
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    I have the same issue

    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    There is a post in a different thread suggesting a similar problem with a large frame. My chain with a 30 tooth ring and Eagle XO drivetrain on my large frame does not contact the chain stay protector (although I have struggled badly with that drivetrain for other reasons).

    How big is your ring?
    I have the same issue on a large frame with a 30t ring and xt12. The chain ring size is immaterial as the idler creates a fixed point for the top of the chain. I think it's an xt issue.

  33. #433
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastdonkey View Post
    Hey Guys ó I have just built up my Druid frame with an all new Shimano XT 12 speed drivetrain....
    Hey fastdonkey, I believe you should have this reply in an email but I'll post it here too for everyone else's benefit.

    Because of the increased lower chain growth, caused by the rearward axle path of the Druid, it is often required to run less B-tension than that recommended by the drivetrain manufacturers. A quick rule of thumb would be to set the B-tension so that the derailleur jockey wheels are quite close to the cassette sprockets in the larger sprockets while in a bike stand. With some adjustment you should be able to set the distance in the stand as close as possible to still allow the chain to shift. The shifting will not feel too great in the stand but it should function as intended at sag when on the trail. This kind of set-up will ensure the maximum possible chain wrap on the small sprocket.

    Another possible cause could be poor fitment of the chainslap protector. In the smallest sprocket the chain will foul the protector, but the interference should only be slight and in our testing does not impede function in the 10T sprocket. We had to design the protector in this why to give the quiet ride we desired. It is possible that the protector could have been fitted with an air pocket between the protector and the frame member (resulting in the protector sitting higher than designed). Check to see if there is any noticeable free space between the protector and frame by pushing on the protector. If there is we can send you a new one and you can perform the installation following the guidelines in our exploded view / assembly document for the Druid (you can find this at the bottom of the tech page on our website).


    I hope that helps! Owen

  34. #434
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mgrantorser View Post
    I have the same issue on a large frame with a 30t ring and xt12. The chain ring size is immaterial as the idler creates a fixed point for the top of the chain. I think it's an xt issue.
    Of course. Good point on the irrelevance of the chain ring size.

    So yeah. This seems to be an issue. Owen alluded to the redesigned idler working better with the Shimano 12 speed drivetrain. I wonder if this is what he was referring to. See post 331 and after.

    EDIT: I didnít see Owenís post immediately above this one when I posted this.

    That B tension adjustment has been a problem for me from Day 1, and why I have shit all over SRAM on this board. I have an Eagle XO drivetrain that I am STILL fiddling with the B tension screw. I have to do a full pedal rotation with no torque when switching into a lower gear, before laying the power down, failing which it sounds like I am ripping teeth off my cassette. I cringe every time I shift. Because of this, I have been riding my Druid with as little shifting as possible.
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  35. #435
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    Of course. Good point on the irrelevance of the chain ring size.

    So yeah. This seems to be an issue. Owen alluded to the redesigned idler working better with the Shimano 12 speed drivetrain. I wonder if this is what he was referring to. See post 331 and after.

    EDIT: I didnít see Owenís post immediately above this one when I posted this.

    That B tension adjustment has been a problem for me from Day 1, and why I have shit all over SRAM on this board. I have an Eagle XO drivetrain that I am STILL fiddling with the B tension screw. I have to do a full pedal rotation with no torque when switching into a lower gear, before laying the power down, failing which it sounds like I am ripping teeth off my cassette. I cringe every time I shift. Because of this, I have been riding my Druid with as little shifting as possible.
    No the changes to the idler pulley were to help the Shimano chain mesh correctly with the pulley teeth. On the earlier version there was some interference with the shaped inner surfaces of the Shimano chain.

    Sram drivetrains are notoriously bad for their inconsistent B-tension performance. This makes set up crucial on any bike, and unfortunately more fiddly on bikes with more chain growth. It can be done but it takes a knack to get right repeatedly. And in my experience will need frequent re-adjustments.

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    Anyone know where I can pick up an XL? A few places I've talked to say they are backordered until July.

    Thanks!

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  37. #437
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    Quote Originally Posted by ForbiddenBikeCo View Post
    No the changes to the idler pulley were to help the Shimano chain mesh correctly with the pulley teeth. On the earlier version there was some interference with the shaped inner surfaces of the Shimano chain.

    Sram drivetrains are notoriously bad for their inconsistent B-tension performance. This makes set up crucial on any bike, and unfortunately more fiddly on bikes with more chain growth. It can be done but it takes a knack to get right repeatedly. And in my experience will need frequent re-adjustments.
    I am running SRAM XX0 Eagle (32t front chainring) and when I do a hard cutty on flat pavement, my mech tends to hang up like I'm back-pedalling into a gear-shift or wrong gear.

    Can't figure this out for the life of me...
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  38. #438
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    Anybody else notice Forbidden may have another model in the works? (Posted on their IG with a 63.5į HTA)

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    Anyone try running low rise handlebars? Something like 12mm instead of 25mm, the stack height is really high on this bike with a 150mm fork.


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    Quote Originally Posted by AKRCD47 View Post
    Anyone try running low rise handlebars? Something like 12mm instead of 25mm, the stack height is really high on this bike with a 150mm fork.


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    Running 15mm rise on mine (150mm fork). Forgot how many spacers I'm running but I think 15mm? Will check when I get home.

    Edit: 15mm spacers, 40mm Renthal Apex Stem @ -5į, 15mm rise handlebars.
    Last edited by cheezwhip; 01-27-2020 at 06:06 PM.
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  41. #441
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKRCD47 View Post
    Anyone try running low rise handlebars? Something like 12mm instead of 25mm, the stack height is really high on this bike with a 150mm fork.


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    I'm running a 25 rise and wouldn't mind being a bit higher in the front. My steerer tube on my 36 was cut for my previous bike though. Not many spacers underneath on the Druid.
    Last edited by mtnbkrmike; 01-28-2020 at 08:07 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by cheezwhip View Post
    Anybody else notice Forbidden may have another model in the works? (Posted on their IG with a 63.5į HTA)

    The rumours have been flying around, including a joint venture with We Are One (the JV, while wishful thinking, appears to be false).

    There are going to be Druid completes shortly. This appears to be confirmed in today's PB article (which may be why Forbidden has been focussing closely on Shimano drivetrain/idler pulley compatibility).

    Time will tell whether a longer travel HSP is on its way...
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKRCD47 View Post
    Anyone try running low rise handlebars? Something like 12mm instead of 25mm, the stack height is really high on this bike with a 150mm fork.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Okay, so it's not just me. I started with the usual 30mm under the stem, but after a couple of days riding I was down to 15mm. This is all on a 140mm fork with a 20mm rise bar. When I go to 150mm travel, I may have to swap out the bar for a 10mm rise.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cheezwhip View Post
    Anybody else notice Forbidden may have another model in the works? (Posted on their IG with a 63.5į HTA)

    "I do not need a bikepark-capable but nice-pedalling long-travel rig! My current bike is excellent, and I already have a DH bike!"
    [spouse leaves room, rolling eyes]
    ...
    ...
    ...
    [rubs credit card on laptop screen]
    "We'll be together soon. I promise."

  45. #445
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    Quote Originally Posted by pinkrobe View Post
    "I do not need a bikepark-capable but nice-pedalling long-travel rig! My current bike is excellent, and I already have a DH bike!"
    [spouse leaves room, rolling eyes]
    ...
    ...
    ...
    [rubs credit card on laptop screen]
    "We'll be together soon. I promise."
    Gold.

    Me too.
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  46. #446
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    Another proud druid owner here!
    wanted to go coil on my Druid. Any setup info? recommendations?Forbidden Bike Co Druid-resizer_15804821871010.jpg

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    Searching for a size M Druid

    Hi,

    If anyone want to sell a size M Druid, contact me ! I am really interested

  48. #448
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    ...PM me if you have any issues with the RideWrap. I did 2 tailored kits in a row - a matte one on my Druid, and then a gloss one on my Honzo. FWIW, I my be able to offer you a few tips and tricks that I learned in the course of all the madness.
    Those of you on the fence about using RideWrap to add some frame protection...the pieces are tailor cut very nicely, provide coverage for pretty much the entire frame and should provide reasonable protection, but beware that applying the stuff will be a war of attrition. Especially applying the big pieces for the down and toptube where the ones that had me cussing and cursing, pushing me to the brink of insanity. It all worked out OK after 5 hours and several beers to calm the nerves. There are still a few small visible air bubbles, but I can live with that. May still try to get rid of those with a pinch/pop with sharp tip of small needle, but not sure yet.

  49. #449
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    My ride wrap shows next week (my buddy is a dealer) then the fun begins. Turkey Point here in Ontario looks like summer, so I might have to get my bike done soon.

  50. #450
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    Quote Originally Posted by fizzywater View Post
    Those of you on the fence about using RideWrap to add some frame protection...the pieces are tailor cut very nicely, provide coverage for pretty much the entire frame and should provide reasonable protection, but beware that applying the stuff will be a war of attrition. Especially applying the big pieces for the down and toptube where the ones that had me cussing and cursing, pushing me to the brink of insanity. It all worked out OK after 5 hours and several beers to calm the nerves. There are still a few small visible air bubbles, but I can live with that. May still try to get rid of those with a pinch/pop with sharp tip of small needle, but not sure yet.
    I can relate man. In addition to my sanity, I almost lost my relationship with my daughter and my GF in the process. Applying some of those pieces was like solving a Rubikís cube. I am sure I must have fked up in the amount of soap I was using, because shit went from zero to 100 in no time flat.

    Congrats in getting the ball over the goal line.
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    I can confirm that this is the case. However, I think that at that speed and considering how slippery the material feels I can't detect additional drag.

  52. #452
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    Quote Originally Posted by danlovesbikes View Post
    I can confirm that this is the case. However, I think that at that speed and considering how slippery the material feels I can't detect additional drag.
    Quote Originally Posted by Smackem View Post
    I read a bit of a blurb on vitalmtb and Pinkbike, owners are reporting that on a 10 tooth cog the chain drags on the seatstay. Anyone confirm this, and what cog does it stop dragging?
    It does. However, at that speed and considering the slippery feel of the seatstay protection material, I doubt you would perceive drag. Also, how many bikes have I owned where the chain slapped the chainstay like crazy in higher gears!

  53. #453
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    Quote Originally Posted by fizzywater View Post
    Those of you on the fence about using RideWrap to add some frame protection...the pieces are tailor cut very nicely, provide coverage for pretty much the entire frame and should provide reasonable protection, but beware that applying the stuff will be a war of attrition. Especially applying the big pieces for the down and toptube where the ones that had me cussing and cursing, pushing me to the brink of insanity. It all worked out OK after 5 hours and several beers to calm the nerves. There are still a few small visible air bubbles, but I can live with that. May still try to get rid of those with a pinch/pop with sharp tip of small needle, but not sure yet.
    Seems to be trickier to install than Invisiframe, but very comprehensive coverage. I managed it in 3hrs using the 4 drops of baby shampoo per litre. I have done a few frames with Invisiframe so I've had some practice, but you're right, very tailored and tricky to get right.

  54. #454
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    Quote Originally Posted by ForbiddenBikeCo View Post
    We're actually considering doing a run of after market Stainless Steel idler pulleys. Aimed at people putting high mileage on their Druids. Is that something you guys would be interested in?

    I was working on the design yesterday and I think I can keep the weight increase down to around 20 grams.

    Owen
    I'll take one!

  55. #455
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pmrmusic26 View Post
    Anyone try running an angleset headset with a 140 or 150mm fork?
    Yes. 150mm with a 1į angleset from Works Components.

  56. #456
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    Drivetrain update

    Hey All:

    Sorry itís taken so long to respond. I followed the advice given by Nathan via email and quoted by Owen below and was very careful with adjusting my B tension. After some fiddling, I am now successfully able to pedal out of the saddle on the 10T cog (32 tooth front ring for those that asked). Shifting is smooth across the range when tested in my neighborhood. I am on an XL and the chain does rest on the chainstay protector and even makes very slight contact while pedaling but doesnít appear to effect the chain retention on the smallest cog at this time. I really need to get this bad boy on the trail for a proper test, but I wanted to give an update and thank you all for the responses! Keep working that B tension (even to the point where it doesnít sound smooth while in the stand).

    Quote Originally Posted by ForbiddenBikeCo View Post
    Hey fastdonkey, I believe you should have this reply in an email but I'll post it here too for everyone else's benefit.

    Because of the increased lower chain growth, caused by the rearward axle path of the Druid, it is often required to run less B-tension than that recommended by the drivetrain manufacturers. A quick rule of thumb would be to set the B-tension so that the derailleur jockey wheels are quite close to the cassette sprockets in the larger sprockets while in a bike stand. With some adjustment you should be able to set the distance in the stand as close as possible to still allow the chain to shift. The shifting will not feel too great in the stand but it should function as intended at sag when on the trail. This kind of set-up will ensure the maximum possible chain wrap on the small sprocket.

    Another possible cause could be poor fitment of the chainslap protector. In the smallest sprocket the chain will foul the protector, but the interference should only be slight and in our testing does not impede function in the 10T sprocket. We had to design the protector in this why to give the quiet ride we desired. It is possible that the protector could have been fitted with an air pocket between the protector and the frame member (resulting in the protector sitting higher than designed). Check to see if there is any noticeable free space between the protector and frame by pushing on the protector. If there is we can send you a new one and you can perform the installation following the guidelines in our exploded view / assembly document for the Druid (you can find this at the bottom of the tech page on our website).


    I hope that helps! Owen

  57. #457
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastdonkey View Post
    Hey All:

    Sorry itís taken so long to respond. I followed the advice given by Nathan via email and quoted by Owen below and was very careful with adjusting my B tension. After some fiddling, I am now successfully able to pedal out of the saddle on the 10T cog (32 tooth front ring for those that asked). Shifting is smooth across the range when tested in my neighborhood. I am on an XL and the chain does rest on the chainstay protector and even makes very slight contact while pedaling but doesnít appear to effect the chain retention on the smallest cog at this time. I really need to get this bad boy on the trail for a proper test, but I wanted to give an update and thank you all for the responses! Keep working that B tension (even to the point where it doesnít sound smooth while in the stand).
    Similar experience recently with my XL. Sounds rough in the stand but at sag works well. I'm also running a 12sp Shimano chain on a SRAM 11sp cassette and rear mech, running onto a Shimano 12sp crank/chainring. SRAM XX1 11sp chain was giving too much noise from the idler but the Shimano 12sp chain is quieter and has improved shifting too.

    Curious to know what the 90kg people are running the shock at? PSI, rebound, compression and tokens.

  58. #458
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    Quote Originally Posted by danlovesbikes View Post
    Similar experience recently with my XL. Sounds rough in the stand but at sag works well. I'm also running a 12sp Shimano chain on a SRAM 11sp cassette and rear mech, running onto a Shimano 12sp crank/chainring. SRAM XX1 11sp chain was giving too much noise from the idler but the Shimano 12sp chain is quieter and has improved shifting too.

    Curious to know what the 90kg people are running the shock at? PSI, rebound, compression and tokens.
    90+ kg riding weight. LSC and HSC wide open. Rebound 4 clicks from wide open. 195 PSI. Stock tokens.

    I used 2 ShockWizes to assist with this.

    That said, my 11-6 arrives Thursday, so I get to figure all this out again.
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  59. #459
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    90+ kg riding weight. LSC and HSC wide open. Rebound 4 clicks from wide open. 195 PSI. Stock tokens.

    I used 2 ShockWizes to assist with this.

    That said, my 11-6 arrives Thursday, so I get to figure all this out again.
    Thank you.

  60. #460
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    Quote Originally Posted by danlovesbikes View Post
    Thank you.
    I have run it as low as 175 PSI. See my posts above and the video I linked from the Vancouver Island dude who liked his at 175. I go for periods on my hardtail and when I get back on the Druid, 175 feels like a bit of a squish bucket to me. But then again, anything would after getting my retinas detached for weeks at a time on my hardtail. Shockingly though, I rarely get pedal strikes with 175mm cranks regardless of what PSI I am running, and I ride in very rocky terrain.

    All in all, my settings above are what I have landed on. That said, the sweet spot on the Druid is the widest of any bike I have ever owned. Regardless of the settings (within reason), it's just all varying degrees of goodness.

    PS - I appreciate that I speak very highly of this bike. I believe that is the case, but others may have a less positive experience with it. So everyone reading this should take what I say with a grain of salt. What is good for me, may not be good for you. All I can say is the Druid is VERY GOOD for me.
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  61. #461
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    I have run it as low as 175 PSI. See my posts above and the video I linked from the Vancouver Island dude who liked his at 175. I go for periods on my hardtail and when I get back on the Druid, 175 feels like a bit of a squish bucket to me. But then again, anything would after getting my retinas detached for weeks at a time on my hardtail. Shockingly though, I rarely get pedal strikes with 175mm cranks regardless of what PSI I am running, and I ride in very rocky terrain.

    All in all, my settings above are what I have landed on. That said, the sweet spot on the Druid is the widest of any bike I have ever owned. Regardless of the settings (within reason), it's just all varying degrees of goodness.

    PS - I appreciate that I speak very highly of this bike. I believe that is the case, but others may have a less positive experience with it. So everyone reading this should take what I say with a grain of salt. What is good for me, may not be good for you. All I can say is the Druid is VERY GOOD for me.
    I originally went well over 200psi and it felt too harsh. I have since dropped pressure and backed off compression. Not really had riding time due to a brake failure but I definitely had the rebound too slow. Thanks for the tips.

  62. #462
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    Quote Originally Posted by danlovesbikes View Post
    I originally went well over 200psi and it felt too harsh. I have since dropped pressure and backed off compression. Not really had riding time due to a brake failure but I definitely had the rebound too slow. Thanks for the tips.
    Me too. I tried measuring the sag on the buried stanchion when I first got it and ended up at 225 PSI. I went for a 5 hour hammer fest with some animals I know. Christ. I may as well have been riding my rigid Unit. I was so beaten after that. I was actually a little concerned about things. But everything came together at 195.

    *in addition, unbeknownst to me, my fork had a crazy vacuum going on - it may as well have been rigid too. That first ride almost killed me.
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  63. #463
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    Hey Druid owners,
    I'm working my way towards purchasing a large frame from Fanatik. I have a question regarding headsets. I will probably buy the affordable CC 40 HS. There is not enough detail on Fanatik or Forbidden about the exact model to use from CC. I guess there are two possibilities:

    zs44/28.6 zs56/30h
    zs44/28.6 zs56/40h

    Maybe they both work and this is a preference thing w/regards to stack height. I don't know what the 30 vs. 40 number responds to.

    Can anyone shed any light on this?

    Thanks!

  64. #464
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wazzou View Post
    Hey Druid owners,
    I'm working my way towards purchasing a large frame from Fanatik. I have a question regarding headsets. I will probably buy the affordable CC 40 HS. There is not enough detail on Fanatik or Forbidden about the exact model to use from CC. I guess there are two possibilities:

    zs44/28.6 zs56/30h
    zs44/28.6 zs56/40h

    Maybe they both work and this is a preference thing w/regards to stack height. I don't know what the 30 vs. 40 number responds to.

    Can anyone shed any light on this?

    Thanks!
    Forbidden specifies the zs44/28.6 zs56/40h in their documentation.

  65. #465
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    Quote Originally Posted by danlovesbikes View Post
    Curious to know what the 90kg people are running the shock at? PSI, rebound, compression and tokens.
    An easy rule of thumb for an initial set up would be to start at 5 PSI below your body weight in lbs. Adjust 1-2 PSI at a time from there. Most riders seem to be happy somewhere in the 5- 10 PSI below body weight range. In that zone you will still have good support and you are really adjusting your dynamic ride height.

    You will probably want to run your LSC on the open side. 7 - 9 clicks from closed.

    Set your rebound as fast as you can ride it without getting bucked. With shorter travel bikes such as the Druid a nice fast rebound allows them to ride higher in their travel over repeated hits.

    We found the stock .2 token to work well for most riders.

  66. #466
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wazzou View Post
    Hey Druid owners,
    I'm working my way towards purchasing a large frame from Fanatik. I have a question regarding headsets. I will probably buy the affordable CC 40 HS. There is not enough detail on Fanatik or Forbidden about the exact model to use from CC. I guess there are two possibilities:

    zs44/28.6 zs56/30h
    zs44/28.6 zs56/40h

    Maybe they both work and this is a preference thing w/regards to stack height. I don't know what the 30 vs. 40 number responds to.

    Can anyone shed any light on this?

    Thanks!
    The 30 / 40 number refers to the size of the crown race. 30 being for a straight 1 1/8" steerer, 40 for a 1 1/8" - 1.5" tapered steerer. All modern single crown forks use tapered steerer tubes so you will need the zs44/28.6 zs56/40.

  67. #467
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    Forbidden Bike Co Druid-img_0517.jpg
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  68. #468
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    Quote Originally Posted by ForbiddenBikeCo View Post
    An easy rule of thumb for an initial set up would be to start at 5 PSI below your body weight in lbs. Adjust 1-2 PSI at a time from there. Most riders seem to be happy somewhere in the 5- 10 PSI below body weight range. In that zone you will still have good support and you are really adjusting your dynamic ride height.

    You will probably want to run your LSC on the open side. 7 - 9 clicks from closed.

    Set your rebound as fast as you can ride it without getting bucked. With shorter travel bikes such as the Druid a nice fast rebound allows them to ride higher in their travel over repeated hits.

    We found the stock .2 token to work well for most riders.
    Thanks for the info, I'll give that a go this weekend.

  69. #469
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    Skipping issue not resolved

    I was able to get my bike beyond the neighborhood for some testing and was disappointed to find out that the chain still skips on the smallest cog. I went to the point of backing out the B limit all the way (not even concerned with shifting, just trying to get as much wrap as possible) and it still skips under hard bursts of pedaling. As a recap, I have a brand new XL frame with brand new Shimano XT 12-speed, 10-51 cassette and 32 t ring with the XT 12s chain. The chain rests on the seatstay protector even when pedaling so it is my hypothesis that this is keeping the chain from fully interfacing with the cog and thereís just not enough chain wrapped around to stay engaged under load, even with the b limit all the way out. I emailed Forbidden and copied Fanatik to see how they want to proceed. More to follow

    Quote Originally Posted by ForbiddenBikeCo View Post
    Hey fastdonkey, I believe you should have this reply in an email but I'll post it here too for everyone else's benefit.

    Because of the increased lower chain growth, caused by the rearward axle path of the Druid, it is often required to run less B-tension than that recommended by the drivetrain manufacturers. A quick rule of thumb would be to set the B-tension so that the derailleur jockey wheels are quite close to the cassette sprockets in the larger sprockets while in a bike stand. With some adjustment you should be able to set the distance in the stand as close as possible to still allow the chain to shift. The shifting will not feel too great in the stand but it should function as intended at sag when on the trail. This kind of set-up will ensure the maximum possible chain wrap on the small sprocket.

    Another possible cause could be poor fitment of the chainslap protector. In the smallest sprocket the chain will foul the protector, but the interference should only be slight and in our testing does not impede function in the 10T sprocket. We had to design the protector in this why to give the quiet ride we desired. It is possible that the protector could have been fitted with an air pocket between the protector and the frame member (resulting in the protector sitting higher than designed). Check to see if there is any noticeable free space between the protector and frame by pushing on the protector. If there is we can send you a new one and you can perform the installation following the guidelines in our exploded view / assembly document for the Druid (you can find this at the bottom of the tech page on our website).


    I hope that helps! Owen

  70. #470
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastdonkey View Post
    I was able to get my bike beyond the neighborhood for some testing and was disappointed to find out that the chain still skips on the smallest cog. I went to the point of backing out the B limit all the way (not even concerned with shifting, just trying to get as much wrap as possible) and it still skips under hard bursts of pedaling. As a recap, I have a brand new XL frame with brand new Shimano XT 12-speed, 10-51 cassette and 32 t ring with the XT 12s chain. The chain rests on the seatstay protector even when pedaling so it is my hypothesis that this is keeping the chain from fully interfacing with the cog and thereís just not enough chain wrapped around to stay engaged under load, even with the b limit all the way out. I emailed Forbidden and copied Fanatik to see how they want to proceed. More to follow
    Chain isn't the correct length. I had the same issue on another bike and had to take 2 links out.

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

  71. #471
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    I followed Forbiddenís recommendation of adding 4 links to a 126 link chain to get 130 links. If Forbidden is correct, I am assuming length of chain is not the issue. Owen might chime in to confirm or clarify


    Quote Originally Posted by bogeydog View Post
    Chain isn't the correct length. I had the same issue on another bike and had to take 2 links out.

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

  72. #472
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastdonkey View Post
    I followed Forbiddenís recommendation of adding 4 links to a 126 link chain to get 130 links. If Forbidden is correct, I am assuming length of chain is not the issue. Owen might chime in to confirm or clarify
    Iím currently at 124 links on an XL with a Shimano 11 speed drivetrain (11-42 cassette, 11 speed XTR chain, XTR GS cage). The chain rests on the cs protector in the 11 tooth. I was getting skipping under power like you describe until I readjusted the b-tension way down. The upper pulley is almost touching the cassette while in the stand. The skipping is now gone for me.

    Just mentioning as a point of reference for you and your prob. Also- chain length does effect chain wrap (varies by derailleur cage pivot design).

  73. #473
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    Agreed that chain length does effect wrap, I just meant that in my case I didnít think it was the issue because I followed the manufacturerís recommendation. For what itís worth, I did try shortening the chain by a couple of links to no avail. I also backed the b limit screw all the way out so the jockey wheel was as close as physically possible and it did not solve the problem. My gut tells me that the 10t cog is not compatible with the design. So far, I think that the only people riding an XL that solved the issue have an 11 tooth cog on their cassette. Regardless, I really appreciate everyoneís responses trying to help me get it sorted!

    Quote Originally Posted by jwick View Post
    Iím currently at 124 links on an XL with a Shimano 11 speed drivetrain (11-42 cassette, 11 speed XTR chain, XTR GS cage). The chain rests on the cs protector in the 11 tooth. I was getting skipping under power like you describe until I readjusted the b-tension way down. The upper pulley is almost touching the cassette while in the stand. The skipping is now gone for me.

    Just mentioning as a point of reference for you and your prob. Also- chain length does effect chain wrap (varies by derailleur cage pivot design).

  74. #474
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    Thanks for the replies about the headset specs. I have a headset ordered now. Now I just need another small part...the frame itself! Soon I hope!

  75. #475
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastdonkey View Post
    Agreed that chain length does effect wrap, I just meant that in my case I didnít think it was the issue because I followed the manufacturerís recommendation. For what itís worth, I did try shortening the chain by a couple of links to no avail. I also backed the b limit screw all the way out so the jockey wheel was as close as physically possible and it did not solve the problem. My gut tells me that the 10t cog is not compatible with the design. So far, I think that the only people riding an XL that solved the issue have an 11 tooth cog on their cassette. Regardless, I really appreciate everyoneís responses trying to help me get it sorted!
    I have 10t cog on my 11sp XX1 cassette. I had initial set up dramas relating to b-gap but seems to run well now.

  76. #476
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    Thanks for confirming you were able to get a 10t cog on an XL to work properly for your SRAM drivetrain. How many links are you running on your chain? Has anybody had luck with Shimano XT M8100 12 speed on an XL?

    Quote Originally Posted by danlovesbikes View Post
    I have 10t cog on my 11sp XX1 cassette. I had initial set up dramas relating to b-gap but seems to run well now.

  77. #477
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    My Druid went in for some fairly major surgery today. Push 11-6 shock, Grip2 damper to replace the FIT4 in my 36, Luftkappe, new drivetrain components including a new idler, and nice new beefy rubber. Should be incredible.

    Question for you guys - is anyone using the access to the lower part of the downtube to store a tube, lever, and other stuff? I have been doing this but am getting a little freaked about cross threading or over-torquing those screws. On my bike at least, they feel a little fragile. Maybe I am just being paranoid but I am thinking about switching over to using the bosses on the underside of the top tube instead.
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  78. #478
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    Hey,
    I have been reading this thread for a little while now and I'm looking at buying a Druid frame. I have been riding 27.5, a couple of different bikes, for years now. So this will be my choice for entering into the 29 size. I really like the 27.5 bikes I have been riding on the tight technical steep up/down trails that I ride here in Western Colorado and Moab. Even though I am probably going to make the switch to a 29, I have my doubts that a 29 will be more fun to ride than a large travel wider-tire 27.5 bike on this slow-tech type of riding. But I could be totally wrong about this!

    I guess I'm wondering if any of you guys that are riding the Druid, came from a 27.5 bike before the Druid, and if so, what are your thoughts on the change? Secondly, is there anyone here riding a Druid in the slow-tech, dry rocky trails of Colorado/Utah/Arizona/etc, and how do you like this bike in this terrain?

    I'm very intrigued by the Druid's design, so much so, that I am considering one to replace my 27.5. I think with the rearward path suspension design, mid travel, and short wheelbase the Druid could be really great on my favorite trails.

    Thanks for your comments & suggestions.

  79. #479
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    My Druid went in for some fairly major surgery today. Push 11-6 shock, Grip2 damper to replace the FIT4 in my 36, Luftkappe, new drivetrain components including a new idler, and nice new beefy rubber. Should be incredible.

    Question for you guys - is anyone using the access to the lower part of the downtube to store a tube, lever, and other stuff? I have been doing this but am getting a little freaked about cross threading or over-torquing those screws. On my bike at least, they feel a little fragile. Maybe I am just being paranoid but I am thinking about switching over to using the bosses on the underside of the top tube instead.
    I use the downtube box to store things I'm unlikely to need (until I need it!) like tube, spare shifter cable, spare hanger. Stuff I'm more likely to use (flat repair kit/plugs, multitool, etc) goes either in my little hip bag with my first aid kit or in the storage of my one up edc pump. That way I minimize the amount of time I'm taking the downtube protector on/off

  80. #480
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    Quote Originally Posted by rpearce1475 View Post
    I use the downtube box to store things I'm unlikely to need (until I need it!) like tube, spare shifter cable, spare hanger. Stuff I'm more likely to use (flat repair kit/plugs, multitool, etc) goes either in my little hip bag with my first aid kit or in the storage of my one up edc pump. That way I minimize the amount of time I'm taking the downtube protector on/off
    Makes sense. Thanks for sharing.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wazzou View Post

    I guess I'm wondering if any of you guys that are riding the Druid, came from a 27.5 bike before the Druid, and if so, what are your thoughts on the change?

    I'm very intrigued by the Druid's design, so much so, that I am considering one to replace my 27.5. I think with the rearward path suspension design, mid travel, and short wheelbase the Druid could be really great on my favorite trails.

    Thanks for your comments & suggestions.
    I've been on 29ers for about 7yrs now. No looking back for me, they're better for me in most situations. I'm more of a wheels on the ground rider but the Druid seems to want to get air at every opportunity. I did revisit 27.5 but felt a huge loss in speed so just gave them away entirely.

    You should probably try and get a demo for the weekend. An hour or two might not be enough time to mentally adjust. I'm happy with the Druid, I came off a Foxy 29 and the Druid is faster up and down.

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    Quote Originally Posted by fastdonkey View Post
    Thanks for confirming you were able to get a 10t cog on an XL to work properly for your SRAM drivetrain. How many links are you running on your chain? Has anybody had luck with Shimano XT M8100 12 speed on an XL?
    Using a standard length 12sp Shimano XT chain plus link (126 I believe, not sure if that includes link or not?). My cassette is only 46t and the 11sp XX1 rear mech has a shorter cage than 12sp mechs so my chain length requirement is obviously slightly less.

    Have you set b-gap at sag? Also, have you ensured that the top jockey is slightly outboard of the 10t cog? Maybe back off limit screws, check sag gap and offset then re-do limits. You may have tried all of this..

  83. #483
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    Push 11-6 shock, Grip2 damper, Luftkappe, new drivetrain components including a new idler, and nice new beefy rubber.

    is anyone using the access to the lower part of the downtube to store a tube, lever, and other stuff?
    I'm interested to know your thoughts on the difference with a coil vs DPX2. It's probably the only upgrade I'd consider down the track. I'm keen on the EXT STORIA LOK.

    Haven't used the cavity yet. I don't carry tubes anymore and I can't be bothering flipping the bike over to get at stuff anyway.

  84. #484
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    Quote Originally Posted by danlovesbikes View Post
    I'm interested to know your thoughts on the difference with a coil vs DPX2. It's probably the only upgrade I'd consider down the track. I'm keen on the EXT STORIA LOK.

    Haven't used the cavity yet. I don't carry tubes anymore and I can't be bothering flipping the bike over to get at stuff anyway.
    I'm running the 11-6 on my Druid since December, had 1 month on the DPX2 prior. I've never been able to get an off the shelf trail shock (dpx2, super deluxe, etc) to work well for me on a 130+ travel bike when ridden fast and in anger (only exceptions are the cane creek inlines and the dvo topaz as both are end user tunable). I'm 210 ready to ride, advanced rider with aggressive riding style. I was planning on getting a cane creek db coil il to match my helm fork but the 11-6 was on sale for $750 and with a Fanatik gift card I couldn't say no! For everyday riding, the coil shock isn't as huge of a difference as it was on my old Guerilla Gravity Smash (which really needs a coil IMO), it's a touch more supple and in the trail mode is very similar to the DPX2 in open mode. The 11-6 really shines on high speed, rough descents when in open mode where there is, again IMO, a noticeable difference in composure, wheel tracking, and how the bike handles big hits. Only trade off, again to me, is the weight gain.

  85. #485
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wazzou View Post
    Hey,
    I have been reading this thread for a little while now and I'm looking at buying a Druid frame. I have been riding 27.5, a couple of different bikes, for years now. So this will be my choice for entering into the 29 size. I really like the 27.5 bikes I have been riding on the tight technical steep up/down trails that I ride here in Western Colorado and Moab. Even though I am probably going to make the switch to a 29, I have my doubts that a 29 will be more fun to ride than a large travel wider-tire 27.5 bike on this slow-tech type of riding. But I could be totally wrong about this!

    I guess I'm wondering if any of you guys that are riding the Druid, came from a 27.5 bike before the Druid, and if so, what are your thoughts on the change? Secondly, is there anyone here riding a Druid in the slow-tech, dry rocky trails of Colorado/Utah/Arizona/etc, and how do you like this bike in this terrain?

    I'm very intrigued by the Druid's design, so much so, that I am considering one to replace my 27.5. I think with the rearward path suspension design, mid travel, and short wheelbase the Druid could be really great on my favorite trails.

    Thanks for your comments & suggestions.
    I live in the deserts of Southern California and have ridden the bike in Arizona (Tuscon and Phoenix). It handles slow tech trails very well though the extra length does take a bit of getting used to if you're coming from a shorter bike. It's a phenomenal tech climber.

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    Wow you were riding a pretty long bike with the Foxy, Dan. I'm similar to you - I aim to keep the wheels on the ground most of the time, but taking the small hits whenever they present themselves. From what I've seen on reviews, the Druid is very planted and stable and can take some effort to make pop. Good to hear that you are finding the Druid to be a playful bike.

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    Hey rpearce,
    Thanks for your reply. That's the feedback I am looking for. I just got back from riding Tucson/Phoenix/Sedona 2 weeks ago. So much fun, especially Sedona. The vortexes are probably not real, but the excellent singletrack sure is! It was my second time riding the "hog" trails in Sedona, but this time with a 150/160mm 27.5 bike - all slow tech, chess match maneuvering combined with steep drops and climbs. The riding down in AZ and in my neighborhood of Western Colorado/SE Utah is so rough and rocky...and always involves steep technical climbing. I'm looking forward to trying this bike on that type of riding, and I hope it is nearly as fun. I know that as a 29, it will be great in almost all other areas of trail riding.

  88. #488
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wazzou View Post
    Wow you were riding a pretty long bike with the Foxy, Dan. I'm similar to you - I aim to keep the wheels on the ground most of the time, but taking the small hits whenever they present themselves. From what I've seen on reviews, the Druid is very planted and stable and can take some effort to make pop. Good to hear that you are finding the Druid to be a playful bike.
    I would characterize my Druid as planted and stable. And it's going to be even more so with the 11-6. Not to say I can't get it in the air off natural kickers, but it is not what I would characterize as overly playful. That said, the Druid truly is a beast. It tames anything and everything that gets in its way. Effortlessly. And without all the sloppy bullshit that is a necessary evil with some of the longer travel bikes. The Druid is tight AF.
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  89. #489
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wazzou View Post
    Wow you were riding a pretty long bike with the Foxy, Dan. I'm similar to you - I aim to keep the wheels on the ground most of the time, but taking the small hits whenever they present themselves. From what I've seen on reviews, the Druid is very planted and stable and can take some effort to make pop. Good to hear that you are finding the Druid to be a playful bike.
    The Foxy had a long front centre and I've given away 20mm on ETT, that hasn't translated to feeling cramped at all though. The Foxy was probably a touch long in the reach for me. I am loving the longer chainstay on the Druid, finally a long bike that doesn't want to tuck under on steep climbs. So much easier navigating up steeper rocky climbs than all of my previous bikes (there's been a lot) and that is probably why people are also saying it's stable. A longer chainstay feels less twitchy when speed increases.

    As as a direct comparison to previous bikes it is more planted and stable than the Foxy, even at speed (short chainstay on the Foxy), and I also find it very poppy and lively too. It's really the only bike I can remember riding that has both of these characteristics.

  90. #490
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    Hi! Does anyone have ridden the new Hightower and could compare it to the Druid? Thanks

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    I am really curious if with Forbidden being a smaller company but also coming out with the best bike yet. I would be interested in if they are able to sell different linkages for us customers. I've always been curious about testing a Mullet bike with a 27.5 rear wheel but dont want to ride anything but my Druid.

  92. #492
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    About to start putting my bike together as almost all my parts have showed up. For the cranks, is there a need to use any spacers?

    Thanks,

    Dave

  93. #493
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    Forbidden Bike Co Druid-img_0577.jpg
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  94. #494
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Nice!!!!! And????????

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dude! View Post
    Nice!!!!! And????????
    Not sure. Just picked it up.

    In total:

    DPX2 replaced by 11-6
    FIT4 replaced by Grip2
    Luftkappe added
    Old idler pulley (with replaced bearings) replaced by new idler pulley
    Blown DT 240 front bearings replaced
    New XX1 chain+
    180 front rotor replaced by 200 front rotor
    New rubber - 2.5 DHF/2.4 DHR2

    I have now spent more on this bike than any other bike in the last 20+ years. Oh well. At least itís a killer machine Iím sinking money into.
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  96. #496
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    Not sure. Just picked it up.

    In total:

    DPX2 replaced by 11-6
    FIT4 replaced by Grip2
    Luftkappe added
    Old idler pulley (with replaced bearings) replaced by new idler pulley
    Blown DT 240 front bearings replaced
    New XX1 chain+
    180 front rotor replaced by 200 front rotor
    New rubber - 2.5 DHF/2.4 DHR2

    I have now spent more on this bike than any other bike in the last 20+ years. Oh well. At least itís a killer machine Iím sinking money into.
    That is a fine looking machine. All money spent on very good components though. I reckon you'll love the changes. Please keep us updated.

  97. #497
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    Forbidden Bike Co Druid

    Quote Originally Posted by danlovesbikes View Post
    That is a fine looking machine. All money spent on very good components though. I reckon you'll love the changes. Please keep us updated.
    Thanks. Unfortunately it got a little more portly in the makeover. 30 lbs even to 32.5 lbs.

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  98. #498
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    Thanks. Unfortunately it got a little more portly in the makeover. 30 lbs even to 32.5 lbs.

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    It will grow another lb once you put worthy casings on too! Good thing it it hides the weight well and rewards you going downhill.

    Weight counting is for XC.


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  99. #499
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    For those who may be curious, the weight above includes a tube and levers jammed in the downtube behind the downtube protector/cover. There may be more shit crammed in there as well. I can't remember. Maybe a CO2 head and cartridge. It's probably less than 32 with all that removed.

    Add to that my bear spray in the bottle cage, my pump that straps beside the bottle cage, and my mini tool that attaches under the bottle cage (all of which I carry 100% of the time), and yeah. Good thing I am commuting Monday to Friday throughout the winter and lifting like a sonofa b. I hope I don't notice the extra weight come spring.

    As for casings, I ride this bike as fast as I possibly can throughout the Rockies in Alberta and BC. Lots of mileage too - idler pulley and DT 240 bearings pooched from last summer and fall. I have been doing this using EXO Minions for well over a decade. No problems to date. Maybe I need to step it up!
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  100. #500
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    Quote Originally Posted by danlovesbikes View Post
    Yes. 150mm with a 1į angleset from Works Components.
    How does it compare? Trail riding? DH?

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    Quote Originally Posted by ForbiddenBikeCo View Post
    We're actually considering doing a run of after market Stainless Steel idler pulleys. Aimed at people putting high mileage on their Druids. Is that something you guys would be interested in?

    I was working on the design yesterday and I think I can keep the weight increase down to around 20 grams.

    Owen
    Hi Owen, Any update on this?

  102. #502
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pmrmusic26 View Post
    How does it compare? Trail riding? DH?
    Well I didn't ride the Druid with standard headset as I built it up with the angleset straight away. My previous bike had a 66į and I much preferred it after I changed that to 65į so I just went with slack straight away.

    I think the Druid would ride great either way, I just happen to like the additional confidence the slacker setting gives me in steep rock chutes and fast rock gardens. It still rails around anything and the only time it's a handful is around tight switchbacks up or down. I think that's just wheelbase though as I'm on XL, all of my previous bikes felt like that.

    Due to said chutes, I am wondering if I should put a 160mm shaft into the Lyrik. I'd go back to standard headset then as I'd be slackening the HA slightly anyway with the increase travel. Anyone with any 160mm Druid experience out there? Any word from Forbidden if they will warranty if a fork greater than 150mm is used?

    I never actually thought I'd take a 130mm travel bike down the stuff that I have, it's pretty nuts how.good modern bikes are. I PR'd a descent the other day on my first run on the Druid, I didn't notice because I took 9secs off that on the second run! I've ridden that trail 100+ times.

  103. #503
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    Quote Originally Posted by danlovesbikes View Post
    Well I didn't ride the Druid with standard headset as I built it up with the angleset straight away. My previous bike had a 66į and I much preferred it after I changed that to 65į so I just went with slack straight away.

    I think the Druid would ride great either way, I just happen to like the additional confidence the slacker setting gives me in steep rock chutes and fast rock gardens. It still rails around anything and the only time it's a handful is around tight switchbacks up or down. I think that's just wheelbase though as I'm on XL, all of my previous bikes felt like that.

    Due to said chutes, I am wondering if I should put a 160mm shaft into the Lyrik. I'd go back to standard headset then as I'd be slackening the HA slightly anyway with the increase travel. Anyone with any 160mm Druid experience out there? Any word from Forbidden if they will warranty if a fork greater than 150mm is used?

    I never actually thought I'd take a 130mm travel bike down the stuff that I have, it's pretty nuts how.good modern bikes are. I PR'd a descent the other day on my first run on the Druid, I didn't notice because I took 9secs off that on the second run! I've ridden that trail 100+ times.
    Forbidden is rumoured on the interwebz to be coming out with a longer travel HSP in late summer. That could perhaps be more in line with what you are looking for. Not sure.

    Coming from a Norco Range, for me it's awesome to not have all the slop that seems to be a necessary evil with the longer travel bikes. I'm good with the Druid's 150/130 travel for any terrain I encounter.
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    Anyone interested in trying a 209.5x57 shock, shoot me a message on here and I will give you some information. Kind of like a lunch ride SB130, should bump the travel to somewhere around 134mm out back.


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  105. #505
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    I'm interested in hearing more about your shock.

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    I have some awesome news to report. I have a Large Druid in Moss color on the way to Western Colorado...should be here on Thursday. Woo Hoo!!!

    I am going to finally cross over to the 29r darkside. And on a very unique bike. I am totally psyched. Should look something like this...

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  107. #507
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wazzou View Post
    I have some awesome news to report. I have a Large Druid in Moss color on the way to Western Colorado...should be here on Thursday. Woo Hoo!!!

    I am going to finally cross over to the 29r darkside. And on a very unique bike. I am totally psyched. Should look something like this...

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    Congrats! And psyched you should be. You are in for some incredible excitement ahead...
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    Any Druid owners having an issue with tire rub on the lower chain guide pulley? I've been dealing with this issue on my size medium frame, with Schwalbe Magic Mary 2.35 super gravity tire on the rear. The tire buzz happens when putting some power into the pedals, sawing away at the bars or hard turns to the left. Leaning the bike into a left turn flexes the wheel enough to cause contact. First, I was running a Zipp 3Zero Moto wheel on the back; although that rim had too much flex, even with the wheel dished a little to the left. I switched to a Crank Brothers Synthesis rear wheel; and I was still experiencing the tire buzz. So, I have dished this wheel a little to the left. This has resolved it for the most part. I do get a buzz once in a while when hitting a corner hard. The chain guide is spaced as it came from Forbidden; and the chain line is spot on.

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    Quote Originally Posted by fastdonkey View Post
    Agreed that chain length does effect wrap, I just meant that in my case I didnít think it was the issue because I followed the manufacturerís recommendation. For what itís worth, I did try shortening the chain by a couple of links to no avail. I also backed the b limit screw all the way out so the jockey wheel was as close as physically possible and it did not solve the problem. My gut tells me that the 10t cog is not compatible with the design. So far, I think that the only people riding an XL that solved the issue have an 11 tooth cog on their cassette. Regardless, I really appreciate everyoneís responses trying to help me get it sorted!
    I'm jumping in on this a bit late, but I have the same issue (identical drivetrain setup, albeit on a L frame as opposed to XL). I emailed Forbidden and they recommended playing with the B screw (I think it might've been my email Owen was referring to on fastdonkey's original post). I'm in the same place; haven't been able to sort it out in either.

  110. #510
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    Quote Originally Posted by danlovesbikes View Post

    Due to said chutes, I am wondering if I should put a 160mm shaft into the Lyrik. I'd go back to standard headset then as I'd be slackening the HA slightly anyway with the increase travel. Anyone with any 160mm Druid experience out there? Any word from Forbidden if they will warranty if a fork greater than 150mm is used?
    Got told by the shop I bought my frame from that it would void the warranty if I kept the 160mm air shaft on my Fox 36. I decided to go to a 150mm air shaft...

  111. #511
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    Quote Originally Posted by _HENDO_ View Post
    Got told by the shop I bought my frame from that it would void the warranty if I kept the 160mm air shaft on my Fox 36. I decided to go to a 150mm air shaft...
    Thanks mate. I'm pretty happy with the 150mm so far, I was more curious about the possibility than anything.

  112. #512
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    A lesson on why you should always look over your bike every few rides. On a recent ride it seems my rear shock bolt came undone and gouged out the inside of the shock tunnel on my front triangle. Cracked it all the way through. Kudos to Forbidden, I emailed them with pics about the issue on Monday and they had a crash replacement front triangle mailed out by Wednesday. Good customer service!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Forbidden Bike Co Druid-img_20200218_172500.jpg  


  113. #513
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    Quote Originally Posted by rpearce1475 View Post
    A lesson on why you should always look over your bike every few rides. On a recent ride it seems my rear shock bolt came undone and gouged out the inside of the shock tunnel on my front triangle. Cracked it all the way through. Kudos to Forbidden, I emailed them with pics about the issue on Monday and they had a crash replacement front triangle mailed out by Wednesday. Good customer service!
    Damn. Sorry to hear this. Glad you got it sorted out.

    And yes - itís a reminder to all of us to check for things like this. I was told to put some moto foam between the yoke and the seat stay, or whatever, due to a risk of rocks jamming in there.

    On a different note, is anyone using the 2 bosses under the top tube for anything?
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  114. #514
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    Quote Originally Posted by rpearce1475 View Post
    A lesson on why you should always look over your bike every few rides. On a recent ride it seems my rear shock bolt came undone and gouged out the inside of the shock tunnel on my front triangle. Cracked it all the way through. Kudos to Forbidden, I emailed them with pics about the issue on Monday and they had a crash replacement front triangle mailed out by Wednesday. Good customer service!
    Thanks for the heads up. I have been checking bolts every few rides, might do a pre-ride check every time now...

  115. #515
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    Damn. Sorry to hear this. Glad you got it sorted out.

    And yes - itís a reminder to all of us to check for things like this. I was told to put some moto foam between the yoke and the seat stay, or whatever, due to a risk of rocks jamming in there.

    On a different note, is anyone using the 2 bosses under the top tube for anything?
    I use one of these https://nsmb.com/articles/wolf-tooth...-roll-top-bag/ to hold spare cable, der hanger, and anything I don't want in my pockets if not wearing a pack (keys, snacks, etc). Tube and large flat repair kit (tire boots and interior patches with cement) go in the hole in the downtube

  116. #516
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    On a different note, is anyone using the 2 bosses under the top tube for anything?
    Iíve got the OneUp edc pump mounted with the Topeak centerline mount.

    https://www.topeak.com/us/en/product...terline-mount)

    Extra tube and der hanger in the cargo bay down below.


  117. #517
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    Forbidden Bike Co Druid

    Quote Originally Posted by jwick View Post
    Iíve got the OneUp edc pump mounted with the Topeak centerline mount.

    https://www.topeak.com/us/en/product...terline-mount)

    Extra tube and der hanger in the cargo bay down below.

    Nice. I see you did a little customizing of the colour scheme (or lack thereof). Only semi murdered out now.

    A couple of comments...

    I am almost positive that when my LBS replaced the DPX2 with the 11-6, they mentioned that they used a dab of loctite on the shock bolts, just to make sure.

    I too use the ďreverse SWAT boxĒ for my tube, levers, etc., but I am mildly concerned about the integrity of the tiny fastening bolts, even if I never go into it. I suspect it was never designed for this. I donít believe there is anything commenting about it being used for storage at the Forbidden website. First world concerns for sure though.

    Anyway, I am going to continue using it but I need to find a use for those bosses. Lol. My pump and mini tool are connected really cleanly to my bottle cage bosses on the downtube.

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  118. #518
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    Nice. I see you did a little customizing of the colour scheme (or lack thereof). Only semi murdered out now.

    A couple of comments...

    I am almost positive that when my LBS replaced the DPX2 with the 11-6, they mentioned that they used a dab of loctite on the shock bolts, just to make sure.

    I too use the ďreverse SWAT boxĒ for my tube, levers, etc., but I am mildly concerned about the integrity of the tiny fastening bolts, even if I never go into it. I suspect it was never designed for this. I donít believe there is anything commenting about it being used for storage at the Forbidden website. First world concerns for sure though.

    Anyway, I am going to continue using it but I need to find a use for those bosses. Lol. My pump and mini tool are connected really cleanly to my bottle cage bosses on the downtube.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I came very close to the Wolftooth bag rpearce motioned above. Looks like a great solution. Beyond a one bottle ride Iíd rather just wear a hip or shoulder pack for the extra stuff though. There comes a point where it starts to feel like bike packing for the long hauls. YMMV

  119. #519
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    Quote Originally Posted by rpearce1475 View Post
    I use one of these https://nsmb.com/articles/wolf-tooth...-roll-top-bag/ to hold spare cable, der hanger, and anything I don't want in my pockets if not wearing a pack (keys, snacks, etc). Tube and large flat repair kit (tire boots and interior patches with cement) go in the hole in the downtube
    I missed this post.

    Do you also use Wolftoothís plate between the bag and the bosses? How much wider is the bag and plate than the top tube? Does it ever get in the way of peddling or otherwise?
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  120. #520
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    I missed this post.

    Do you also use Wolftoothís plate between the bag and the bosses? How much wider is the bag and plate than the top tube? Does it ever get in the way of peddling or otherwise?
    I use the B-rad 2 to create enough space, it is not wider than the top tube. The bag can be wider if you overfill it but it is easy to pack it so it projects down more than out (if that makes sense) pedaling interference again depends on how you pack it

  121. #521
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    Quote Originally Posted by rpearce1475 View Post
    I use the B-rad 2 to create enough space, it is not wider than the top tube. The bag can be wider if you overfill it but it is easy to pack it so it projects down more than out (if that makes sense) pedaling interference again depends on how you pack it
    This sounds interesting.

    My LBS, which is a Forbidden dealer, has some WT stuff there. I went in a different direction when he told me that the rectangular plate for the strap (not the bag) was significantly wider than the top tube. I see that the bag does not have this plate and may work a lot better. [edit: on closer look, it appears the bag uses the same rectangular plate as the accessory strap]

    That said, my experience with shit in a bag is that it gets pulverized to the point that it partially turns into dust. Maybe this bag is better at damping the vibrations. I guess it also depends on what you put in there, and whether you are able to cinch things up nice and snug.

    Can you please post some pics, if it's not too much trouble?
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  122. #522
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    Quote Originally Posted by bjtreglia View Post
    Any Druid owners having an issue with tire rub on the lower chain guide pulley? I've been dealing with this issue on my size medium frame, with Schwalbe Magic Mary 2.35 super gravity tire on the rear. The tire buzz happens when putting some power into the pedals, sawing away at the bars or hard turns to the left. Leaning the bike into a left turn flexes the wheel enough to cause contact. First, I was running a Zipp 3Zero Moto wheel on the back; although that rim had too much flex, even with the wheel dished a little to the left. I switched to a Crank Brothers Synthesis rear wheel; and I was still experiencing the tire buzz. So, I have dished this wheel a little to the left. This has resolved it for the most part. I do get a buzz once in a while when hitting a corner hard. The chain guide is spaced as it came from Forbidden; and the chain line is spot on.
    I was thinking of running the same wheelset. Any idea what spokes you where using? Lacing and tension? Tire pressure? if a 2.35 is rubbing.....than a 2.5 will for sure.

  123. #523
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    Been building my druid, Just curious how many spacers are you guys running on your BB? The 2.5mm on the drive side doesn't seem to align the cranks up right.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pmrmusic26 View Post
    I was thinking of running the same wheelset. Any idea what spokes you where using? Lacing and tension? Tire pressure? if a 2.35 is rubbing.....than a 2.5 will for sure.
    I used Sapim Leader 2.0mm spokes, 3 cross lacing on the rear wheel. The spoke tension was only by feel compared to a factory built Zipp 3Zero Moto front wheel. Even if tension was a little off, I still think the rubbing wouldl be a problem. I dished the wheel 3 to 5 mm to the left. My 2.35 Schwalbe is more like 2.45" actual width measured at the outer edge of the side knobs.

  125. #525
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    It really depends on the crankset/chainring/BB you're are using. I had to run through a few trial and errors before I achieved perfect alignment with the upper pulley. I'm using a Hope BB with Raceface Atlas crankset (30mm spindle) and a Blackspire non-boost chainring. I don't think I'm running the 2.5mm BB cup spacer. I can't recall how many spindle spacers I ended up using. I did discovered,with my setup, a non-boost ring allowed my crank arms to be an equal distance from centerline.

  126. #526
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pmrmusic26 View Post
    Been building my druid, Just curious how many spacers are you guys running on your BB? The 2.5mm on the drive side doesn't seem to align the cranks up right.
    Druid have on their downloadable tech sheet, 52mm chainline and 73mm BB shell. I used the latest XT (52mm) chainline crankset, 32t ring and standard XT BB no spacers.

    I also have a 2.5" Maxxis Minion DHF on the rear and there is still clearance, maybe 3mm.

  127. #527
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    Quote Originally Posted by danlovesbikes View Post
    I also have a 2.5" Maxxis Minion DHF on the rear and there is still clearance, maybe 3mm.
    I'm running a Schwalbe Hans Dampf in a 2.6 on a Reynolds carbon wheel set (think it's 30mm internal) and haven't noticed any rubbing.

  128. #528
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    Quote Originally Posted by powderturns View Post
    I'm running a Schwalbe Hans Dampf in a 2.6 on a Reynolds carbon wheel set (think it's 30mm internal) and haven't noticed any rubbing.
    I should have mentioned I'm also running a Stans Sentry rim, 32mm inner.

  129. #529
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    Was running 2.3 minions on We Are One 27mm Insiders. Zero issues.

    Moved to a 2.5 DHF/2.4 DHR2 combo. Time will tell but from what I see, I have ample clearance.
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  130. #530
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    This sounds interesting.

    My LBS, which is a Forbidden dealer, has some WT stuff there. I went in a different direction when he told me that the rectangular plate for the strap (not the bag) was significantly wider than the top tube. I see that the bag does not have this plate and may work a lot better. [edit: on closer look, it appears the bag uses the same rectangular plate as the accessory strap]

    That said, my experience with shit in a bag is that it gets pulverized to the point that it partially turns into dust. Maybe this bag is better at damping the vibrations. I guess it also depends on what you put in there, and whether you are able to cinch things up nice and snug.

    Can you please post some pics, if it's not too much trouble?
    I wanted to get some more time in with the wolftooth set up before responding. So the plate does project out beyond the top tube by maybe a quarter of an inch each side. However, there is enough fore/aft movement in the plate and in the B-rad mount it attaches to to get the plate far forward enough where you won't hit it pedaling. That being set, I found it such a pain mounting the bag to the mounting plate that I ended up just strapping it to the downtube above the water bottle. Holds on very nicely and good volume for spares, first aid kit, etc up there and still fit a full size water bottle.

  131. #531
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    Quote Originally Posted by rpearce1475 View Post
    I wanted to get some more time in with the wolftooth set up before responding. So the plate does project out beyond the top tube by maybe a quarter of an inch each side. However, there is enough fore/aft movement in the plate and in the B-rad mount it attaches to to get the plate far forward enough where you won't hit it pedaling. That being set, I found it such a pain mounting the bag to the mounting plate that I ended up just strapping it to the downtube above the water bottle. Holds on very nicely and good volume for spares, first aid kit, etc up there and still fit a full size water bottle.
    Thanks for following up.

    I canít figure out what to do with those bosses on the top tube. Seems like a waste to me. With my pump, mini tool and bear spray on the down tube, and my tube, chain tool and a few other things in the compartment on the downtube, maybe I am searching for a solution to a problem that doesnít exist. Still though, seems like a waste.
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  132. #532
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    So they say not to mount a water bottle cage there. Which leads to:

    Forbidden Bike Co Druid-spacemanflask3.jpg

  133. #533
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    Quote Originally Posted by ForbiddenBikeCo View Post
    We're actually considering doing a run of after market Stainless Steel idler pulleys. Aimed at people putting high mileage on their Druids. Is that something you guys would be interested in?

    I was working on the design yesterday and I think I can keep the weight increase down to around 20 grams.

    Owen
    @ForbiddenBikeCo Is there any update on the SS idler? Thanks.
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  134. #534
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    Hi there. Does anyone know the weight of the XL frame? Thanks

  135. #535
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick123 View Post
    Hi there. Does anyone know the weight of the XL frame? Thanks
    Mine weighs 3612g with seatpost clamp, axle, and the chain guide.


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    Quote Originally Posted by jwick View Post
    Mine weighs 3612g with seatpost clamp, axle, and the chain guide.

    Thank you for that. Ace looking frame. I'm just comparing a few different frames. Is the chain rub on the seat stay a problem? When running on the 10 tooth sprocket on the rear. Curious what the climbing is like with the 450mm chain stay? As it seems that for the last few years short stays have been sold to us as good.

    Currently on the XL tallboy 3. Which is a fun bike but climbing isn't that good with my saddle height being so far back. Probably ok for people with short legs.

    The forbidden size specific geometry seems to make a lot of sense!

    Thank you

  137. #537
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    @rick123 I think size large is 3080g at fanatikís webpage. I havent put mine on a scale yet as i didnt have time to build it yet etc.
    The frame doesnt look just ace, its the best looking/highest quality frame i have ever seen in person and i am very glad because it was the most impulsive bike related purchase i have ever done. (Never ridden/saw one before)
    My frame arrived at the bikeshop i ordered it with a very small chip in the front and Forbidden replaced it immediately no questions asked. Just a thing to consider besides the weight of the bike 😀

  138. #538
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick123 View Post
    Thank you for that. Ace looking frame. I'm just comparing a few different frames. Is the chain rub on the seat stay a problem? When running on the 10 tooth sprocket on the rear. Curious what the climbing is like with the 450mm chain stay? As it seems that for the last few years short stays have been sold to us as good.

    Currently on the XL tallboy 3. Which is a fun bike but climbing isn't that good with my saddle height being so far back. Probably ok for people with short legs.

    The forbidden size specific geometry seems to make a lot of sense!

    Thank you
    Rubbing isn't an issue, very quiet, I can't detect any additional friction.

    Climbing with the 450mm stays is much better for me, it's steep and rocky on my trails but the Druid not only pedals well it has very good rear wheel traction. I simply don't slip/lose traction or spit gravel anymore.

    Short chainstays are the worst for tall people. My XL Foxy was a handful and steep climbs because of the short rear end.

    Best thing to do is demo one.

  139. #539
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    If youre a weight weenie dont buy this bike, the Rocky Mountain bikes are super light but this thing rides better than anything.


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  140. #540
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick123 View Post
    Thank you for that. Ace looking frame. I'm just comparing a few different frames. Is the chain rub on the seat stay a problem? When running on the 10 tooth sprocket on the rear. Curious what the climbing is like with the 450mm chain stay? As it seems that for the last few years short stays have been sold to us as good.

    Currently on the XL tallboy 3. Which is a fun bike but climbing isn't that good with my saddle height being so far back. Probably ok for people with short legs.

    The forbidden size specific geometry seems to make a lot of sense!

    Thank you
    I totally agree with Danlovesbikes on all accounts. I run a cassette with an 11 tooth and it hasnít been a problem since I got the b tension sorted out.

    I too own a TB3 XL and will keep it for smoother higher milage rides. I have the same problem with the STA but have slammed the seat forward, run the flip chip for the steepest STA. Iím lucky enough to be able to keep both but If I had to choose Iíd hands down keep the Druid and have two sets of wheels for it. This bike has exceeded every expectation.

  141. #541
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    Quote Originally Posted by csm024 View Post
    I have an 11-6 on my Druid. Very worthwhile upgrade.
    Quote Originally Posted by KineticFear View Post
    I was also about to pull trigger on an 11/6 so information is helpful to me as well. Any comments on the difficulty to adjust the rebound due to the placement?
    Quote Originally Posted by rpearce1475 View Post
    I ended up getting an 11-6 on the sale price. I had one sitting around from one of my old bikes that I wanted to get converted. Conversion price per Push would be $550 due to needing the side-stack design and changing length of the shock. With the sale price at $750 and now being able to sell my old one as is, it works out to at worst $300 for a 11-6 shock. I'll take it!
    Quote Originally Posted by cheezwhip View Post
    The DPX2 just feels "wound-up" or "tight" - really makes the bike super poppy. I want a little more suppleness off the top.

    Am still considering the 11-6 too...
    Quote Originally Posted by Dude! View Post
    The PUSH 11-6 sale is calling to me as well. I believe it would be great to try on the Druid based on other observations with the DPX2. However, the DPX2 works well. Curious why you went for this? Haha I need some nudging!
    For those of you who threw down on an 11-6, what weight spring did you get and what is your bodyweight unclothed?

    My spring weight is 450 lbs and I am 185 lbs out of the shower. Curious to see what others are at and what they think is the optimum spring weight.

    Thanks.
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  142. #542
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    209.5x57 Fox X2 is the way to go, message me for more info. I sold my tractive tuned Super Deluxe Coil because this shock was so good. The suspension guy owns a Druid so its well tested.


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  143. #543
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    I wonder how a Manitou Mara would work on it?

  144. #544
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    Long time reader, first time poster based near Bellingham. I've read through this threat and I have a few test rides booked on a Rascal, Druid, Offering & Ripmo, but I am pretty biased toward the druid.

    My question is about suspension and weight. I'm coming from a '16 Mason Pro hardtail weighing 30lbs ish. When I build the Druid up with coils on fanatik it comes in between 33-34.5lbs depending on the wheelset. If I go for air then it is between 32-33lbs. Do you have any recommendations? My normal mindset for vehicles is if you are paying money to lose 5-10lbs of sprung on your vehicle you're better off dieting.

    TL;DR
    Would you save weight or go full coil?

  145. #545
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    Quote Originally Posted by ithinkibrokeit View Post
    Long time reader, first time poster based near Bellingham. I've read through this threat and I have a few test rides booked on a Rascal, Druid, Offering & Ripmo, but I am pretty biased toward the druid.

    My question is about suspension and weight. I'm coming from a '16 Mason Pro hardtail weighing 30lbs ish. When I build the Druid up with coils on fanatik it comes in between 33-34.5lbs depending on the wheelset. If I go for air then it is between 32-33lbs. Do you have any recommendations? My normal mindset for vehicles is if you are paying money to lose 5-10lbs of sprung on your vehicle you're better off dieting.

    TL;DR
    Would you save weight or go full coil?
    The Lightest I ever had mine was 33lbs exactly, that was with 11spd, Michelin Wild Enduros, and the stock DPX2. Now I have tires I like better Assegai DD and Dissector DH casing, 12spd, Fox X2 and im right around 34.5, I like the bike way better in the heavier trim. I always use Alloy wheels and cranks because they are cheaper and I dont have to worry about them.


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  146. #546
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    Quote Originally Posted by ithinkibrokeit View Post
    Long time reader, first time poster based near Bellingham. I've read through this threat and I have a few test rides booked on a Rascal, Druid, Offering & Ripmo, but I am pretty biased toward the druid.

    My question is about suspension and weight. I'm coming from a '16 Mason Pro hardtail weighing 30lbs ish. When I build the Druid up with coils on fanatik it comes in between 33-34.5lbs depending on the wheelset. If I go for air then it is between 32-33lbs. Do you have any recommendations? My normal mindset for vehicles is if you are paying money to lose 5-10lbs of sprung on your vehicle you're better off dieting.

    TL;DR
    Would you save weight or go full coil?
    I'm running a Lyrik, alloy 2kg wheelset, Minions F&R. No idea on weight but have the stock DPX2. I'm taking 10sec of trails I've done a hundred times and it climbs sublimely. I would like to go coil eventually but I am quite liking the air at present.

  147. #547
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    Quote Originally Posted by ithinkibrokeit View Post
    Long time reader, first time poster based near Bellingham. I've read through this threat and I have a few test rides booked on a Rascal, Druid, Offering & Ripmo, but I am pretty biased toward the druid.

    My question is about suspension and weight. I'm coming from a '16 Mason Pro hardtail weighing 30lbs ish. When I build the Druid up with coils on fanatik it comes in between 33-34.5lbs depending on the wheelset. If I go for air then it is between 32-33lbs. Do you have any recommendations? My normal mindset for vehicles is if you are paying money to lose 5-10lbs of sprung on your vehicle you're better off dieting.

    TL;DR
    Would you save weight or go full coil?
    If you want full coil, go full coil. Going to air will save some mass, but if you like the coil sprung ride, then a pound or two shouldn't be a factor.

  148. #548
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    New Druid, Grinding noise when climbing

    Hey there,
    I just finished my Druid last week, and it looks great! I'm loving the moss/bar of soap color! The light color is a nice contrast to all of the black components, with a splash of ano-orange.

    I took it out Fruita Colorado and rode for 1 1/2 hours, just to see how it does. This bike climbs better than anything else I have ridden, including DW designed suspension. There is no "pogo" effect when rolling the rear wheel over an obstacle when climbing. IOW, my butt stayed planted on the seat during the climbs. The rear wheel just rolls over and doesn't "pop" over. As for the downhill, I felt that the bike felt plush, but I need more riding time to get a better feel for that. I came from 27.5 and the handling on this bike feels so good and capable to thread tight lines. It did not feel like a monster truck on the trail. This bike is exceeding my expectations so far. One thing though, a grinding noise when pedaling under tension, like when climbing. More on that below.

    A couple of things to help others possibly:

    It took some trial and error to get the shifting right. We figured that out with the help of Fanatik over the phone and my local bike shop. I am running 12 speed sram and setting the B-screw correctly is so important. You have to have the sag set correctly (approx. 25%) and have the rider sit on the bike, while the mechanic sets the B-screw using the red plastic guide from Sram. We were scratching our heads about the crappy shifting; then we adjusted the B-screw according to this procedure and viola! Perfect shifting!

    So the grinding noise, when climbing problem. When we got the shifting and chainline figured out, the grinding noise has decreased quite a bit. But it is still there a little bit when climbing. I can hear it and kinda feel it - it feels like a vibration while turning the cranks on the climb. As far as we can tell, we are not rubbing on the E13 chainguide anywhere. The bike is shifting perfect. The only thing that we are thinking about now are the cranks. I recycled a set of older E13 TRS+ cranks 68/73 threaded BB, with direct mount boost chainring. These cranks worked on another 2019 carbon bike great.

    But I think I might need to modernize my crank setup with this drivetrain. So I ordered a set of Sram DUB GX cranks, BB and Eagle 12-speed specific ring. The guys at Fanatik told me that this combo is working great for them, with no problems. So my fingers are crossed. I'll know in a few days, and will report back.

    I think more than anything it might just be my running an 11-speed spec'd chainring on a 12 speed chain. I didn't know there were 12-speed specific chainrings. There doesn't seem to be alot of options out there yet.

    Has anyone else had any unwanted noise/vibration when cranking uphill?

    Here's my new beauty!

    Forbidden Bike Co Druid-druid3.jpgForbidden Bike Co Druid-druid2.jpg

  149. #549
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    Quote Originally Posted by pinkrobe View Post
    If you want full coil, go full coil. Going to air will save some mass, but if you like the coil sprung ride, then a pound or two shouldn't be a factor.
    X2.

    I have wasted so much money over the years playing the weight game, only to realize it matters so little (within reason). That said, the stock DPX2 kicks ass. I threw down on an 11-6 only because of the deeply discounted pricing on them at the time (and because the relentless squeaking of the DPX2 almost drove me insane).

    I actually think that the linkage in the Druid is so wicked, that almost any shock is going to shine. The problem will not be with the shock, but with the fork, even a coil fork. I donít know where, but a poster above kinda early on said his ACS3 36 could not keep up with the stock DPX2. I believe it.
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  150. #550
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    I went 160 on my fork, after pushing the rear travel out to 134 it feels super balanced. I think im going to also throw in a 1 degree angleset.

    I felt almost no disadvantage going to 160, the nice thing about an angle set is it actually steepens the seat angle a little bit too. I did the math and it should get me to about a 64.2 degree head angle which I have liked a lot on other bikes, I know they dont reccomend it but may as well try it, I try to only ride steeper stuff so keep that in mind that what im looking for is different.

    Slacking out the bike helps with hitting rough stuff faster and the rear end will always keep up, it is incredible how good 134mm of travel can be.




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  151. #551
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    I took the plunge. I know there is a longer travel bike in the works, however this fits exactly what I need for riding in the PNW. It should be ready for pickup around the first or 2nd week of April because I'm putting on elevenSix's newest shock. The build looks like this.

    Forest Moss
    ElevenSix HBO shock
    36 Float 29" GRIP2 150mm / ACS3 conversion
    CK headset, spacer kit and bottom bracket
    Shimano XT Gruppo with 4 pot brakes
    DT swiss XM 481 with 240s hubs
    Renthal apex stem w/ fatbar carbon handlebars and grips
    PNW bachelor dropper
    DMR Vaults

  152. #552
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    First few rides, it is so feckin good. I don't know how to describe it, maybe I can't tell it has suspension, except I have traction and every impact is cushioned. Just wish the front end felt half as nice (lyrik ultimate).

  153. #553
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mgrantorser View Post
    First few rides, it is so feckin good. I don't know how to describe it, maybe I can't tell it has suspension, except I have traction and every impact is cushioned. Just wish the front end felt half as nice (lyrik ultimate).
    That's the issue with this bike. The stock shock seems to blow away any fork - air, coil, whatever. The rear end of this bike is just THAT good.
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  154. #554
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    Quote Originally Posted by ithinkibrokeit View Post
    I took the plunge. I know there is a longer travel bike in the works, however this fits exactly what I need for riding in the PNW. It should be ready for pickup around the first or 2nd week of April because I'm putting on elevenSix's newest shock. The build looks like this.

    Forest Moss
    ElevenSix HBO shock
    36 Float 29" GRIP2 150mm / ACS3 conversion
    CK headset, spacer kit and bottom bracket
    Shimano XT Gruppo with 4 pot brakes
    DT swiss XM 481 with 240s hubs
    Renthal apex stem w/ fatbar carbon handlebars and grips
    PNW bachelor dropper
    DMR Vaults
    Nice.

    I "sprung" for the old 11-6. I am eagerly awaiting the reviews at PB and elsewhere which will undoubtedly compare the new gen 11-6 to the last gen. Little doubt the new one is an improved shock but for the price at which I got mine, i am not going to be too disappointed.

    Well, okay. Maybe I will be. Lol.
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  155. #555
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    Nice.


    I "sprung" for the old 11-6. I am eagerly awaiting the reviews at PB and elsewhere which will undoubtedly compare the new gen 11-6 to the last gen. Little doubt the new one is an improved shock but for the price at which I got mine, i am not going to be too disappointed.

    Well, okay. Maybe I will be. Lol.
    This forum and your posts sold me. I've been following this thread since it started and as soon as Forbidden started posting my interest was solidified. When Lew started his video channel I pulled the trigger. All that just happened to work with push dropping their shock and fanatik working with me. In for a penny in for many pounds.

    I was planning on riding a bunch of different bikes but the thought of waiting till July if they sold out made me crazy. I've bought cars without driving them so this only fits my mental capacity to wait.

  156. #556
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    how did the druit perform on bike park ? it has only short travel front end & rear

  157. #557
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    Quote Originally Posted by ithinkibrokeit View Post
    This forum and your posts sold me. I've been following this thread since it started and as soon as Forbidden started posting my interest was solidified. When Lew started his video channel I pulled the trigger. All that just happened to work with push dropping their shock and fanatik working with me. In for a penny in for many pounds.

    I was planning on riding a bunch of different bikes but the thought of waiting till July if they sold out made me crazy. I've bought cars without driving them so this only fits my mental capacity to wait.
    Oh-oh. This is why I need to reign things in.

    I hope you love it as much as I do. I bought mine sight unseen too. First time I did that in 20+ years of biking, and damned glad I did.

    The only real question mark for me at this point is the shock, now that I have switched to the 11-6. The DPX2 was incredible, except for the relentless high pitched squeak from it, which almost drove me crazy.

    Love your build. Rock solid top to bottom.
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  158. #558
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    Oh-oh. This is why I need to reign things in.
    ....
    Love your build. Rock solid top to bottom.
    The next time you're south of the border in galbi this summer let me know and you can try it out. I'm 86-87kg for my spring rates depending on whose asking.

  159. #559
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    Quote Originally Posted by ithinkibrokeit View Post
    The next time you're south of the border in galbi this summer let me know and you can try it out. I'm 86-87kg for my spring rates depending on whose asking.
    Thanks. Likewise.

    We are in the ball park, weight wise. We can a/b the last and current gen 11-6.

    450 lb spring?
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  160. #560
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    I'll be running a 475, if it's too harsh I'll switch to a 450. Coming from a hardtail with this being my first FS I'm not sure anything will be too harsh right away.

  161. #561
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    This has been posted above but it's worth posting again, if for no other reason than to keep the stoke meter high during these troubling times of COVID-19.

    https://www.vitalmtb.com/product/gui...ws/3648/expand

    "We have always been drawn to short travel bikes with a gravity bias, so we reached out to our friends in Cumberland, BC to get ourselves the Druid for a few months of riding in Squamish, BC..."

    "...we never felt the need to use the compression lever on the shock to help with efficiency and very few can match its technical climbing prowess..."

    "Regardless of what section we rode and how we rode it, the Druid was planted and confidence-inspiring when we dropped our heels, and poppy and playful when we jibbed about. On the shorter punchy bits, the lack of pedal feedback meant we could put power to the ground easily without blowing our feet off, and the shorter-than-usual travel meant we could climb far more efficiently than the enduro bikes that tend to frequent the trail most of the time..."

    "Regardless of feeling a little badly about dragging a 130mm bike up the chairlift, the Druid took rougher trails in stride and was an absolute rocket ship on trails like Ninja Cougar. After being so fun on the rolling, playful trails in Squamish we were impressed that the Druid also felt planted and composed on such high-speed, abusive trails."

    "The Druid makes a strong case as the pound-for-pound most capable bike we have thrown a leg over. It is energetic and nimble at lower speeds, and as the speeds and terrain get more demanding, the bike lengthens and settles into itself. Forbidden has created an extremely versatile bike, and the Druid confirms that the idler excels in applications other than just DH bikes. In a place like the Sea to Sky corridor, the terrain is intimidating enough that many folks rely on a long-travel bike for the handful of gnarly bits within a given ride, but a shorter travel bike like the Druid is capable enough to absorb the heavy impacts, and much more fun everywhere in between."

    "...short travel ďdowncountryĒ bikes do not inspire the same confidence, nor can they withstand the abuse in a place like Squamish. The Forbidden Druid is truly a downhillerís trail bike: capable enough for reckless abandon, efficient enough that a recreational cross-country race is not out of the question and playful enough that mellower trails are still engaging. The Trifecta suspension design is proof that the high idler concept is effective and efficient in places other than the downhill track, and we would bet our bottom dollar that a race-oriented 160mm Forbidden offering would be an absolute weapon. The Druid is a great option for anyone but is best suited to those looking for a mini-DH bike that will allow them to climb efficiently and descend like hooligans."
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  162. #562
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    Noticing that the new Deviate Highlander and Kavenz HSP do NOT utilize a lower pulley, is it really necessary for the Druid to have one? Seems like some of the resistance complaints could be mitigated?

    Saw pics of the 170 travel Norco Range HSP monster.

  163. #563
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    I actually got in touch with deviate before buying my druid. They were super helpful (even sent me geo tables before the bike was official). Geometry was a bit enduro for me and damn is it expensive... All in all very happy w the druid.

  164. #564
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mgrantorser View Post
    I actually got in touch with deviate before buying my druid. They were super helpful (even sent me geo tables before the bike was official). Geometry was a bit enduro for me and damn is it expensive... All in all very happy w the druid.
    It's cheaper than the Druid (in the UK). The headline price is a little misleading for those outside of the EU, as it includes 20% VAT, which residents of the rest of the world don't pay.

  165. #565
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mgrantorser View Post
    I actually got in touch with deviate before buying my druid. They were super helpful (even sent me geo tables before the bike was official). Geometry was a bit enduro for me and damn is it expensive... All in all very happy w the druid.
    I just looked up the deviate bikes. Their pinion bike is fascinating! I love the lack of hanging bits and the probably low maintenance of it. I am sure it is not the lightest and there must be some drawbacks, price notwithstanding, but looks cool. The druid is cool but I wouldn't mind a little more travel. Thanks for bringing my attention to this bike!
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  166. #566
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockcrusher View Post
    I just looked up the deviate bikes. Their pinion bike is fascinating! I love the lack of hanging bits and the probably low maintenance of it. I am sure it is not the lightest and there must be some drawbacks, price notwithstanding, but looks cool. The druid is cool but I wouldn't mind a little more travel. Thanks for bringing my attention to this bike!
    I've got one, they are incredible. Price wise they really aren't that bad, compared with much bigger brands. Ordered a highlander too

    https://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/d...s-1130851.html

  167. #567
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockcrusher View Post
    I just looked up the deviate bikes. Their pinion bike is fascinating! I love the lack of hanging bits and the probably low maintenance of it. I am sure it is not the lightest and there must be some drawbacks, price notwithstanding, but looks cool. The druid is cool but I wouldn't mind a little more travel. Thanks for bringing my attention to this bike!
    Don't decide against the Druid based upon pure rear travel alone. You need to demo one set up properly. I've had 150/160mm rear travel bikes and I'm taking chunks of time off previous PR's on trails I know extremely well.

  168. #568
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    Watching Forbidden's EWS rider Lew's YouTube channel and the things he is riding with this bike shows just how far it can be pushed.

  169. #569
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    How fast are you guys going through bearings? I toasted the upper pulley bearing in around 3 months riding, just under 20 rides. Almost all rides in dry desert conditions

  170. #570
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    Quote Originally Posted by rpearce1475 View Post
    How fast are you guys going through bearings? I toasted the upper pulley bearing in around 3 months riding, just under 20 rides. Almost all rides in dry desert conditions
    I killed mine too. Then again, I also killed the bearings in my DT 240 front hub.

    I suspect the bearings in the idler were from a defective batch. It sounds like a lot of us ended up replacing them after a few months of riding.

    As an aside, mine were crunchy as hell, but I did not notice any driveline drag. Zero. With my new bearings (that I have not yet tried), I wonder whether I will be EVEN faster on my Druid (or if I will be less fatigued on long rides). I canít imagine it getting any better but Iím kinda excited to see how how things feel with the new bearings.
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  171. #571
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    What tools will I need to do a full idler pulley swap out? I don't have any bike specific tools so I want to start building before the bike arrives.

  172. #572
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    Just a 5mm hex key and you are set to go. i just unmounted my idler. Bearing is toast also on mine, and the teeth of the pulley don't look glorious either.

    Maybe that would be something for Forbidden to take care of?

  173. #573
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    If you are swapping the full pulley just a hex as mentioned. If swapping bearings you will need a bearing press. Mike, I noticed a huge amount of drag on mine. Was very noticeable from one ride to the next, prompting me to take the drivetrain apart searching for the reason and found the pulley bearings toasted. Also, to answer your earlier question (sorry forgot to respond) I'm 205 ready to ride and on a 475# spring. Rides great

  174. #574
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    Quote Originally Posted by danlovesbikes View Post
    Don't decide against the Druid based upon pure rear travel alone. You need to demo one set up properly. I've had 150/160mm rear travel bikes and I'm taking chunks of time off previous PR's on trails I know extremely well.
    X2

    I wouldn't get too caught up in 10mm of travel. The bike is going to be so god damned fast you wont even worry.
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  175. #575
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    Quote Originally Posted by ATXZJ View Post
    X2

    I wouldn't get too caught up in 10mm of travel. The bike is going to be so god damned fast you wont even worry.
    Bahahaha Marcus! Funny but true!

    Check out post #493
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  176. #576
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    Heya does anyone have a size large or XL frame they would like to sell?

  177. #577
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gloworm Manufacture View Post
    I've just fitted the EXT Storia V3. Not ridden it yet but will report back after Friday.......Fits nicely and all reports are that it performs as well as the 11-6.

    Attachment 1274933
    Was there an update on this at some point?

    Thanks.

  178. #578
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    Hey Druid gang

    I've been following this thread for quite some time.I recently sold my previous bike (Pivot FB29),which was great but a bit too much for my riding most of the time.

    I've narrowed down my choices for my next bike between the Druid and SC HT2.

    Have to say i like the Druid more in general but i have some concerns about sizing.

    I'm 184cm tall (84cm inseam),according to company's size chart i'm for a Large frame.Looking at geo numbers tho i'm wondering if the bike's gonna feel a bit cramped.

    I don't like using long stems (40-45mm stem is my choice).

    XL on the other hand is a bit long for my liking (485 reach,1263 wheelbase ect..).

    Any feedback from guys my height on a Large?

    I've read also about some shifting issues and chain rubbing on the seatstay when using smaller cogs (planning to use a 12s Shimano 10-51 cassette).Have those issues been addressed for you?

    Also how's the customer service has been for you?Bit skeptical on this as well (considering SC customer service has been stellar for most ppl i know and for me personally in the past).

    Sorry if asking too much but there's really no chance of demoing a Druid where i live,i have to go blind on this.

    Thanks in advance guys

  179. #579
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    Hey EV07,
    I have 6 desert rides on my Druid so far. I'm on an extended stay in Tucson, from Western Colorado. It took me a little bit to get shifting, cranks and suspension sorted, but now I'm there. This is my first 29er, since riding 27.5 bikes for years. With my ride yesterday, I really started to feel comfortable with the handling on this bike. The first few rides, I wasn't sure. Here a few things I have learned:

    I'm 5-10," 145 - 150lbs loaded up, riding a size large with a 50mm stem. The fit is perfect. I have an inch of spacers under a Hope 50 stem with short riser bars, and the stack feels pretty good. I may get higher rise bars. If I were you and considering a shorter stem, I would look at getting an XL. I have 170psi in the DPX2, which is around 30 - 35% sag. The rear suspension is working very well for the ups and downs. One phrase that keeps getting tossed around is that this bike "punches above its weight class." I hate that phrase...I would say that this bike feels exactly like a 130mm travel bike. Which IMO is a good thing, for a trail bike. 140mm would have been even better, but I'm happy with it.

    I have a 150mm Fox 36 on mine, which I'm disappointed in with small bump compliance. I'm switching up to a MRP Ribbon in a few days; I'm a big fan of their forks, and they are made 90 miles from my home. I picked one up for 20% off on Backcountry, so I went for it. I know that some are riding this frame with a 160mm fork, and I may try that with the Ribbon I ordered, but for now it will be at 150mm. One thing about going to 160mm, the stack would probably be right where I want it, but the reach would be 5mm shorter which I could handle with 780mm bars (I'm at 760mm), so I may try 160mm out for fit reasons and not just for more travel. I would like slightly more stack, but then again I don't want to get too light on the front wheel either.

    That said, at least one person on here has asked if these bikes have the "in the bike" feel or "above the bike." I've come to the conclusion that with the steeper seat tube angles on all frames these days, all modern frames put the rider a little more on top of the bike, but that said, the Druid does feel more "in the bike" to me. I think that has a lot to do with the 29" wheels.

    Shifting: I have had no problems with a sram 50-10 cassette. No problems with the 10 tooth cog. I am running a 30t ring in front on Sram Dub cranks. I don't know how to measure the stated 52mm chainline on this bike; when I measure from frame CL, I get more than 52mm. Forbidden should maybe put the symbol graphics on the seat tube and give a chainline measurement from the center of graphics; that might be helpful. But the shop and I figured out how to get the cranks in vertical alignment with the pully, with the spacers that came with the Dub bottom bracket, which I believe is the main thing that matters. The bike is mostly quiet and shifting has been precise.

    Customer service: When I got my frame the rubber protector on the seat stay was pealing off a little. Fanatik bike got in touch with Forbidden, and they sent me a new one immediately, so props to both Fanatik and Forbidden. I will say that the owners have chimed in here and I think if an issue pops up, you can probably reach out and get a response pretty quick. One thing I think they need to do better is finally post a setup guide on their website, which would have helped me out a lot with the trial and error I experienced with cranks and bottom bracket. They could easily test out a few crank systems that are commonly used and post the exact spacer line out that they recommend. There really aren't that many new cranks styles out there anymore. This bike has been out for a year, and the "setup guide" is still stated as "coming soon" on their website. Since the Druid is being sold as a "frame only," and it's a really unusual one at that, they really should get a guide posted on the website. Please, Forbidden, for the love of all that is holy, please post a setup guide!

    And I see some people are wearing out the pully prematurely. My opinion is that those should be warrantied; I hope they are. I bought my frame in February, and I was told that it has an updated pully bearing. So far, I'm having no problems, but I plan on ordering a backup pully system. Because that is the one thing that would keep someone sidelined from riding, if that part fails.

  180. #580
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    Bahahaha Marcus! Funny but true!

    Check out post #493
    High pivot witchcraft is real son!!

    Oh and that shock is sexy AF
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  181. #581
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    @Wazzou

    Thanks very much man for your time and the detailed reply.

    I'm not interested in sizing up to an XL frame as the bike will feel a bit long for me.Ideally something between L and XL would be the perfect fit.

    Regarding your view on rear travel,that's interesting to hear.Most of the reviews i've read online suggest that the bike feels like a longer travel one because of the suspension design ect..

  182. #582
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    LOLMG! #vangirlyuka and #BCPOV are riding Druids with NOBL wheels in 2020! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Jvl1EbWqJg

  183. #583
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    Quote Originally Posted by pinkrobe View Post
    LOLMG! #vangirlyuka and #BCPOV are riding Druids with NOBL wheels in 2020! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Jvl1EbWqJg
    She lost me at SRAM NX.

    That is some crazy shit indeed.
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  184. #584
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wazzou View Post
    I'm 5-10," 145 - 150lbs loaded up... I have 170psi in the DPX2, which is around 30 - 35% sag. The rear suspension is working very well for the ups and downs. One phrase that keeps getting tossed around is that this bike "punches above its weight class." I hate that phrase...I would say that this bike feels exactly like a 130mm travel bike. Which IMO is a good thing, for a trail bike. 140mm would have been even better, but I'm happy with it...
    No offence but if I were you I would try letting some air out of your shock. You are literally the only person I have heard say this about the rear end of that bike.

    I previously rode a 160/160 Norco Range, also an Owen Pemberton creation, and a notoriously plush bike. The Druid? Yup. It does in fact feel like a much longer travel bike to me, without all the loose, uncontrolled squishiness.

    I am 185 to 188 lbs out of the shower. So add clothes, shoes and gear to that. I tried measuring sag and ran the shock at 225psi. It almost resulted in detached retinas. I borrowed 2 ShockWizes and landed on anywhere from 175 to 195 as an optimum PSI. Maybe you ride it harder than me and need more PSI. Not sure. What I do know is that I would be very disappointed if my Druid rode the way you are describing.

    I would be tinkering with the shock settings if I were you. It sounds like you are nowhere near the sweet spot. And it's a W-I-D-E sweet spot on that bike with that shock.
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  185. #585
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    I never have issues on the rear end of my bike, 175 psi in a Float X2 with no tokens. The rear works so good, it is mind blowing.


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  186. #586
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKRCD47 View Post
    I never have issues on the rear end of my bike, 175 psi in a Float X2 with no tokens. The rear works so good, it is mind blowing.


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    100% agreed. Completely consistent with my experience. I dream about that rear end. It's magical.

    Guys are running PUSH coil forks that can't come close to keeping up with the stock DPX2 on that bike.
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  187. #587
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    100% agreed. Completely consistent with my experience. I dream about that rear end. It's magical.
    I am right at 30% sag, I went deeper and it honestly was working too good. I think if people are finding the bike feels harsh they actually need to ditch volume spacers and up the pressure. Way to many people think that more spacers and less pressure makes the rear end track better. You spend more time in the bottom of your travel than you would think, the druid is plenty progressive enough to play with no spacers.


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  188. #588
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKRCD47 View Post
    I am right at 30% sag, I went deeper and it honestly was working too good. I think if people are finding the bike feels harsh they actually need to ditch volume spacers and up the pressure. Way to many people think that more spacers and less pressure makes the rear end track better. You spend more time in the bottom of your travel than you would think, the druid is plenty progressive enough to play with no spacers.


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    Interesting. I ran the shock stock. It was like you say - mind blowing.

    I picked up a last gen 11-6 at a respectable discount. I am very skeptical that it can materially improve on what I was getting out of the stock DPX2, but I am about to find out soon.

    Mind blowing.
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  189. #589
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    Interesting. I ran the shock stock. It was like you say - mind blowing.

    I picked up a last gen 11-6 at a respectable discount. I am very skeptical that it can materially improve on what I was getting out of the stock DPX2, but I am about to find out soon.

    Mind blowing.
    Try the DPX2 with no spacers, I am a die hard follower of MTB Telly on Youtube, this is how he has found the DPX2 works best.


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  190. #590
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnbkrmike View Post
    She lost me at SRAM NX.

    That is some crazy shit indeed.
    Yah, that NX derailleur is completely clapped out. Between the two of them, they have 180k subscribers on Youtube, which appears to be enough to move the needle for Forbidden. It will be interesting to see what they do this year.

  191. #591
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    Maiden voyage this morning ... XL, love it!

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  192. #592
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    Mike you might be right about me having too much air in the rear shock; 170psi is the most I ever put in a rear shock - I'm light - 150ish. I'm used to having a psi that is close to my weight, usually slightly lighter, like 145psi.

    But I'm going off of the sag measurement (measuring the best I can), and I'm at 30% at least, unless I'm doing something wrong. The shock stroke is 55mm, 30% is 16.5mm. I load up with my gear and water and sit carefully on the bike. The sag ring on my shock is around 16 - 18mm away from the air can. It's tough to measure exactly. That's why I said earlier that I'm at 30 - 35% sag. I wouldn't think I would want any more sag than that.

    Are you saying that your sag is way more than 30%? If so, aren't you reducing your travel?

  193. #593
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wazzou View Post
    Mike you might be right about me having too much air in the rear shock; 170psi is the most I ever put in a rear shock - I'm light - 150ish. I'm used to having a psi that is close to my weight, usually slightly lighter, like 145psi.

    But I'm going off of the sag measurement (measuring the best I can), and I'm at 30% at least, unless I'm doing something wrong. The shock stroke is 55mm, 30% is 16.5mm. I load up with my gear and water and sit carefully on the bike. The sag ring on my shock is around 16 - 18mm away from the air can. It's tough to measure exactly. That's why I said earlier that I'm at 30 - 35% sag. I wouldn't think I would want any more sag than that.

    Are you saying that your sag is way more than 30%? If so, aren't you reducing your travel?
    Quote Originally Posted by Wazzou View Post
    Mike you might be right about me having too much air in the rear shock; 170psi is the most I ever put in a rear shock - I'm light - 150ish. I'm used to having a psi that is close to my weight, usually slightly lighter, like 145psi.

    But I'm going off of the sag measurement (measuring the best I can), and I'm at 30% at least, unless I'm doing something wrong. The shock stroke is 55mm, 30% is 16.5mm. I load up with my gear and water and sit carefully on the bike. The sag ring on my shock is around 16 - 18mm away from the air can. It's tough to measure exactly. That's why I said earlier that I'm at 30 - 35% sag. I wouldn't think I would want any more sag than that.

    Are you saying that your sag is way more than 30%? If so, aren't you reducing your travel?
    Quote Originally Posted by Wazzou View Post
    Mike you might be right about me having too much air in the rear shock; 170psi is the most I ever put in a rear shock - I'm light - 150ish. I'm used to having a psi that is close to my weight, usually slightly lighter, like 145psi.

    But I'm going off of the sag measurement (measuring the best I can), and I'm at 30% at least, unless I'm doing something wrong. The shock stroke is 55mm, 30% is 16.5mm. I load up with my gear and water and sit carefully on the bike. The sag ring on my shock is around 16 - 18mm away from the air can. It's tough to measure exactly. That's why I said earlier that I'm at 30 - 35% sag. I wouldn't think I would want any more sag than that.

    Are you saying that your sag is way more than 30%? If so, aren't you reducing your travel?
    If you are confused where to measure from, empty all the air out, push it untill the shock bottoms out, measure 55mm. It should be beasured from the edge of the dust wiper. If this thing feels harsh make sure you have the LSC all the way open or only 2 clicks on. The rebound is probably one of the most important tuning aspects, im usually 1 click slower than the Fox reccomendation, too fast and the bike wont track the ground, too slow and it will pack.

    Here were my settings on the DPX2 that felt as good as anything ive ever ridden. I weight 170 geared up. Clicks counted from closed. I have been flying latley with these settings.


    Fox DPX2
    185 PSI 0 tokens 33% Sag
    LSC: Open
    Rebound: -10

    Fox Float X2 30% Sag
    175 psi 0 Tokens
    LSC: -17
    HSC: -17
    LSR: -13
    HSR: -14


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  194. #594
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    Hmm...I think I missed the LSC adjustment. I haven't messed with that, and I forgot that it was even there. It's probably not fully open. I'm going to ride today; I will redo the setup, and see where the sag ends up. My pressure is probably too high. I will report back! Thanks!

    Are you switching back n forth between two shocks on this thing?

  195. #595
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wazzou View Post
    Hmm...I think I missed the LSC adjustment. I haven't messed with that, and I forgot that it was even there. It's probably not fully open. I'm going to ride today; I will redo the setup, and see where the sag ends up. My pressure is probably too high. I will report back! Thanks!

    Are you switching back n forth between two shocks on this thing?
    I am drafting a long response to your post #592. Stay tuned.

    I agree - LSC and HSC wide open on the DPX2. All the time. On the climbs, on the downs, and everything in between. Set and forget.

    Comprehensive response coming...
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  196. #596
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wazzou View Post
    Mike you might be right about me having too much air in the rear shock; 170psi is the most I ever put in a rear shock - I'm light - 150ish. I'm used to having a psi that is close to my weight, usually slightly lighter, like 145psi.

    But I'm going off of the sag measurement (measuring the best I can), and I'm at 30% at least, unless I'm doing something wrong. The shock stroke is 55mm, 30% is 16.5mm. I load up with my gear and water and sit carefully on the bike. The sag ring on my shock is around 16 - 18mm away from the air can. It's tough to measure exactly. That's why I said earlier that I'm at 30 - 35% sag. I wouldn't think I would want any more sag than that.

    Are you saying that your sag is way more than 30%? If so, aren't you reducing your travel?
    I am no suspension expert by any stretch, although I have been biking seriously for 20+ years and have set up numerous bikes using 2 ShockWizes I have borrowed from my LBS. While I don't always agree with the direction the ShockWizes are taking me, using them has really helped me understand how suspension settings work in concert with each other, and I have been able to learn what works for me.

    I too measured the sag on the Druid's DPX2. Bearing in mind that it was a bit of a PITA for me to get a reliable measurement given the enclosed nature of the stanchion, at 30% I was at 225 PSI.

    My maiden voyage was a 5 hour hammerfest with some complete animals I sometimes refer to as my biking buddies. We hit lots of legit black and I was literally sore after the ride. I actually attended at my physiotherapist the next day to get some needling done in my upper body. I was very sad, even anxious, and felt like I had made a mistake buying the Druid.

    I then called my LBS. I have been loyal to those guys for 2+ decades. Even though I didn't buy the Druid from them, they assured me it was a rocket ship (a few of the guys there have buddies on VCR Island who had been riding the Druid, so they knew all about its magic). They graciously offered to lend me 2 ShockWizes to at least get the suspension in the zone, so I could tweak from there.

    Side note...

    My f'n lowers on my 36 got some kind of reverse vacuum going on at the same time, which also contributed to the rough ride at 225 psi, so the rough ride was not all as a result of the shock. I realized this while calibrating the ShockWix on the fork, which requires airing down. So...back to the shop. I hate to go down so many gopher holes on what should be a short response, but that fork was converted from a 140 to a 150mm when I moved it from my Norco Sight (I thereafter sold the frame) to my Druid. I assume when the conversion took place, the grease got jammed where it should not have been, causing the vacuum.

    ***end of side note***

    Back to the trail head. After a lap on one of my favourite local blasters (Merlin View Loop) the ShockWiz told me to air down big time in the shock from 225. After a few more laps on Merlin, I had it nailed at 195 psi, at least as far as the ShockWiz was concerned. LSC and HSC were both wide open, with maybe 3 or 4 clicks of rebound from wide open. Stock spacers - I did not disassemble the air can to see what was in there.

    I rode for a while like this and it was glorious. I would finish a ride and would immediately be thinking about the next ride. All day at work I would have a smile on my face. People actually commented that I had never looked happier, with the usual stuff about getting laid, etc. After spending 10s and 10s and 10s and 10s and 10s and 10s and 10s and 10s and 10s and 10s of thousands of dollars on bikes, for the first time in my life, I felt like I had reached the holy land with the Druid. My God - if I could can that feeling and sell it, I would be a multi-billionaire overnight.

    Then I stumbled on the video I set out in post #143. As I stated there:

    I agree with so many of this guy's comments, including that it is a bit difficult to describe how wicked the pedalling is on this bike.

    The reason I am posting this though is this...

    I am 185 out of the shower. I measured 30% SAG on the DPX2 and came up with around 225. I rode at this PSI. It was good. [in hindsight, this is NOT correct] I then lowered it to 195. That was better. Then, following the lead of this YT reviewer, I tried 175 PSI today. Christ. Even better. A LOT better. No pedal strikes or perceived inefficiency climbing, and OMG - the downs. THE DOWNS!

    I am going to try 170 tomorrow.

    It just keeps getting better and better. I hope I never wake up from this beautiful dream...

    And again in post #418:

    Consider experimenting a bit with the PSI in your DPX2.

    I am 185 lbs unclothed and had set the PSI WAY too high initially, in accordance with my rough measurement of the sag. I was at 225 PSI initially. I borrowed 2 ShockWizes and dropped it to 195 (LSC at 0, rebound at 4 clicks from open). MUCH better.

    Then I watched this:

    [same video]

    Based on the comments in that video, I tried dropping it to 175. Really good as well. I rode that way for a while and enjoyed it. But then I went a couple of weeks on my hardtail exclusively and when I got back on the Druid, the ass end felt a little wallowy so I went back up to 195, where it has remained to date. Anyway, anywhere between 175 and 195 works well for me.

    There doesn't seem to be a bunch of micro-fiddling necessary with the Druid to find some exceedingly narrow sweet spot, which has been the case with a few other bikes I have owned.

    Don't be afraid to bring a shock pump on the trail and play around with it...

    See also the comments from the man himself in post #408:

    Aim for 17mm to 19mm measured sag. Most people seem to prefer close to 19mm.

    Unless you're heavy you'll probably run the compression circuit on the DPX2 almost fully open.

    And most importantly, Owen says this in post #465:

    An easy rule of thumb for an initial set up would be to start at 5 PSI below your body weight in lbs. Adjust 1-2 PSI at a time from there. Most riders seem to be happy somewhere in the 5- 10 PSI below body weight range. In that zone you will still have good support and you are really adjusting your dynamic ride height.

    You will probably want to run your LSC on the open side. 7 - 9 clicks from closed.

    Set your rebound as fast as you can ride it without getting bucked. With shorter travel bikes such as the Druid a nice fast rebound allows them to ride higher in their travel over repeated hits.

    We found the stock .2 token to work well for most riders.

    There are probably plenty of other posts above worth quoting too.

    Anyway, I have to venture out for some milk in this post-pandemic Mad Maxx of a world.

    TL; DR - despite the occasional wishy-washiness of some of my posts, given that you are "145 - 150lbs loaded up", I would lower the PSI in your DPX2 to about 130, make sure you have your LSC and HSC wide open, maybe 3 or 4 clicks of rebound from wide open and give it a shot. This is all consistent with my experience to date, the experience of the VCR Island dude, Island Bike Life (who made the video I referenced above) and, most importantly, the genius who created the Druid - Owen Pemberton himself. The linkage is plenty progressive enough to prevent bottoming out or even pedal strikes, even at lower pressures. Don't be afraid to experiment at what you believe to be beyond the outer limits of reasonableness. Carry a shock pump. Take your time, stop and adjust, and have fun. Put the Strava away for the day.

    Good luck and keep us posted.
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  197. #597
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wazzou View Post
    Hmm...I think I missed the LSC adjustment. I haven't messed with that, and I forgot that it was even there. It's probably not fully open. I'm going to ride today; I will redo the setup, and see where the sag ends up. My pressure is probably too high. I will report back! Thanks!

    Are you switching back n forth between two shocks on this thing?
    If the sag is good and it feels too harsh, are you bottoming out on big hits? Lowering air pressure in theory is going to help on smaller bumps but if its super soft off the top and then super firm from running tokens you blow through the soft part right away and slam into an invisible wall. All im saying is you can only go so low on pressure before you need to remove spacers, otherwise the bike will feel inconsistent depending on the type of impact.

    Dont give up on the bike untill you try this, everyone always tries to lower pressure to fix everything. If you are 150 lbs I would reccomend 160psi 0 Tokens, LSC fully open, Rebound 11 clicks from closed. Measure sag, if its 30% or more run it, if its below 30% lower pressure untill you are atleast 30% sag. The DPX2 is very progressive so you can probably run 33% and still not bottom harshly depending what you ride and how aggressive you are.

    I dont ride the DPX2 anymore because my brother needed a 210x55 for his Rocky Mountain Altitude so it is on his bike. My terrain is fairly steep and technical, usually -30% grade trails and a mix of loose and rocky as well as some hardpack.


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  198. #598
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    Anyone see this?

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0aj1w7g7mY

    I like to color, I reached out to see if it is a wrap or something but no answer. I also
    noticed that the female rider has some cool forbidden tee shirts on in a color other
    than black.

  199. #599
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    Forbidden Bike Co Druid

    I hadnít seen this or the video in post #582.

    I like the matte green.

    Forbidden Bike Co Druid-img_1366.jpg

    I like my matte black frame more though.

    That looks like a stainless steel idler. It looks different from the original one I had that I pooched very quickly, as well as the replacement component I got.
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  200. #600
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    hey dudes. just read basically the entire thread with lots of interest and froth.

    im currently riding a pimped out sb150 dentist bike. i like riding pretty techie stuff and have taken the bike through canada with my family. whistler, revelstoke, fernie. however i live in australia and try to ride as much as possible. i take it to our decent dh trails (where im decent but not totally pinned at 44 years old)

    after coming across lewis buchanan's channel, i started taking a lot of notice about the rider and the bike. i couldnt believe he was riding a bike with the numbers he was stating and the type of terrain. my mind is still blown tbh.

    now dont get me wrong, i love my dentist bike. im currently running it with dhx2 and smashpot in the front. it feels good over almost anything at my skill level.

    so in saying that im thinking about planning for the next new bike day. i wont be getting the current version of the druid as i still want to get some life out of my 150.

    however, i am thinking about upgrading to the new 11-6 shock with the goal of moving it across to when forbidden release their longer travel bike (just rumours i know).

    taking this into account and doing a fair bit of reading. i dont see a problem in moving the 11-6 across when and if they release their longer travel bike? for those of you who got the 11-6 - was it worth it?

    keep up the great information. this company seems to be kicking so many goals i cant wait to see what happens. (please release that longer travel bike)

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