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Thread: Did I F&%# up?

  1. #1
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    Did I F&%# up?

    Got my mitts on my first carbon frame today...

    Decided to check some stuff over before I start the assembly process. Looked over everything real good. Check how my seat post fit, etc...

    This bike a has threaded BB insert. I took a look at it, it's just some kind of 2 piece threaded shell with a window to help the internal routing. Looked clean, but not like it was machined shiny.

    Didn't know if it would need to be chased so I decided to lightly thread my BB in and see how it felt...

    Here's where I think I went wrong...

    Non-drive side went in easy, out easy. Drive side started to go in easy until I got about 3/4 the way in and then got tight. I didn't force it and I was only turning with my fingers, no wrench.

    Anyway, long story short when it hit that spot it stopped, didn't go forward and wouldn't come out. I wiggled around with it for a few minutes before I conceded that it was stuck and I was probably going to ruin something getting it out.

    I got it out, but destroyed the threads on the BB. The threads in the frame insert look OK, maybe? By that I mean I think if I run a tap through there they'll be OK, but I'm kind of pissed about the whole experience. I ruined a perfectly good BB and perhaps compromised this frame.

    WTF? I mean I can see this being a thing on a steel or aluminum frame that was welded and painted (and even then not so much if you just lightly thread it to see where it might bind up), but on a carbon frame... I wasn't expecting this.

    I'm actually kind of really wondering about the quality of this bike.

    Am I wrong?
    Life is too short to ride a bike you don't love.

  2. #2
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    If threads in frame don't appear butchered you're prob ok. Chase it with a quality tool and plenty of cutting oil and try a new bb...?

  3. #3
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    What is the frame?

    Did you thread the BB in the right direction? Most BBs have reverse threads on one side.

    If the BB shell threads are f'd, I imagine it would be repairable.

    Also, whoever made your frame may not have properly chased/prepped the threads so there may have been paint or something on there that prevented the BB from going in smoothly.

    Pics would be interesting. Good luck.
    Vermonter - bikes, beers and skis.

  4. #4
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    It's a Transition Vanquish.

    The frame is raw carbon, but it likely has a clear coat on it. No visible paint. They looked clean but it's hard to describe, they didn't look like freshly machined threads. They looked almost like galvanized metal. It'd def aluminum and not a nice beefy, machined insert like I would have though but a two piece shell that appears to press together into the frame before molding.

    I'm pretty sure I can repair it - I can see a path all around and no cross-threading, it's just a little chewed.

    Well I def know I put the right side in because the other side went in very smooth (and I've taken BBs in and out a zillion times). Also prepped frames before, but I wasn't sure if I need to chase a carbon frame with an insert. I know I do now...
    Life is too short to ride a bike you don't love.

  5. #5
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    That's bizarre. I can't understand how you could have boogered the threads just by finger tightening them.

    Pics are in order fo sho.
    What's wrong with him??

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Finch Platte View Post
    That's bizarre. I can't understand why you would have boogered the threads just by finger tightening them.


    Pics are in order.
    I had to use a wrench to take it out. That's where the damage was done.

    Why it bound up and wouldn't come out when I was using my fingers is the mystery.
    Life is too short to ride a bike you don't love.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by l'oiseau View Post

    Why it bound up and wouldn't come out when I was using my fingers is the mystery.
    I agree.
    What's wrong with him??

  8. #8
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    The issue typically lies with the dissimilar metals. The BB was very likely stainless and the shell was aluminum. Stainless will gall without a lube of some kind. Anti-sieze is the lube of choice, but for trial fits, I've used vaseline.
    Why Johnny Ringo, you look like someone just walked over your grave.

  9. #9
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    Did I F&%# up?-36915624_1936242476442870_8360308997357568000_n.jpgDid I F&%# up?-36898449_1936242506442867_2847936382402297856_n.jpg

    Best two shots I could get.

    There was some assembly lube still on the BB.

    It went in pretty far before it did this, and you can see it only hurt the first few threads.

    It tore the threads completely off the BB.
    Life is too short to ride a bike you don't love.

  10. #10
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    Take it to a bike shop. They should have a thread cleaning tool. If uou havent cross threaded it too bad it will be ok.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckha62 View Post
    The issue typically lies with the dissimilar metals. The BB was very likely stainless and the shell was aluminum. Stainless will gall without a lube of some kind. Anti-sieze is the lube of choice, but for trial fits, I've used vaseline.
    This is actually what I thought as well, but the BB I have claims to be aluminum for the thread portion. Looked like it too the way it tore to shreds.
    Life is too short to ride a bike you don't love.

  12. #12
    Whiskey Alpha
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    Did you thread the BB in dry without any lube/grease whatsoever? If so I vote as others mentioned you ran into galling. Lesson learned, clean up the threads and use the proper grease!

  13. #13
    Ariolimax columbianus
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    install the drive side first https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oi1Z0iOGwY8
    good luck!

  14. #14
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    I feel like only now, about 15 years later, I can admit that I chased the threads opposite of what I should have on a bike frame. I was actually able to thread the BB in like that and just changed out bearings as necessary, but since it was shimano it was pretty solid anyway. Eventually I cracked the seat-tube due to running too-long of a post, but the BB was solid, I think I used loctite and it held up just fine for 5 years or so and showed no signs of ever being a problem.
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by l'oiseau View Post
    This is actually what I thought as well, but the BB I have claims to be aluminum for the thread portion. Looked like it too the way it tore to shreds.
    It must've been dirty, then.
    Why Johnny Ringo, you look like someone just walked over your grave.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by l'oiseau View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	1207409Click image for larger version. 

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    Best two shots I could get.

    There was some assembly lube still on the BB.

    It went in pretty far before it did this, and you can see it only hurt the first few threads.

    It tore the threads completely off the BB.
    Imo those threads will chase no problem. With that said your story doesn't make sense to me.
    It is no measure of health to be well adjusted to a profoundly sick society.

  17. #17
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    I removed an XT BB for a RF BB that had really long threaded section. The RF went in smoothly to the point the XT had been but started getting tight. After a couple turns I decided to back out the RF BB - Too late it was starting to chew the threads. My LBS was able to chase the threads w/o any issue. The BB was secure though there were a couple ugly threads. LBS stressed having a threaded BB chased / faced on all new builds.

  18. #18
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    Also, is this a "genuine" transition?

    I find it hard to believe that a reputable company that has USA standard QC protocols would sell you a "naked, clear coated frame" with an unchased BB shell.

    If its a copy, thats cool, but it would explain a lot. Those threads will chase fine. Theres enough uncompromised threads to engage most good BBs.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by keen View Post
    LBS stressed having a threaded BB chased / faced on all new builds.
    Quote Originally Posted by Asend2Desend View Post
    Also, is this a "genuine" transition?

    I find it hard to believe that a reputable company that has USA standard QC protocols would sell you a "naked, clear coated frame" with an unchased BB shell.

    If its a copy, thats cool, but it would explain a lot. Those threads will chase fine. Theres enough uncompromised threads to engage most good BBs.
    I've always chased/faced the bb on new builds, though I have only built 3 bikes from the frame up, and only 2 had a threaded bb. I was going to at least face the bb on the other, a BB121 frame, but the shop I bought it from insisted it was unnecessary, so I didn't. It hasn't been an issue. But the 2 threaded bb frames definitely needed both chased and faced.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Asend2Desend View Post
    Also, is this a "genuine" transition?

    I find it hard to believe that a reputable company that has USA standard QC protocols would sell you a "naked, clear coated frame" with an unchased BB shell.

    If its a copy, thats cool, but it would explain a lot. Those threads will chase fine. Theres enough uncompromised threads to engage most good BBs.
    Hahaha - they sent it to me. If it's a fake, jokes on them I guess?

    Also, I'm going with galling. Never felt anything like that before though.
    Life is too short to ride a bike you don't love.

  21. #21
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    This is why PFBB are used mostly now and are superior.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by LargeMan View Post
    This is why PFBB are used mostly now and are superior.
    Thanks, now my eye is twitching...
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by l'oiseau View Post
    Hahaha - they sent it to me. If it's a fake, jokes on them I guess?

    Also, I'm going with galling. Never felt anything like that before though.
    Galling is always going to be worse on fine threads regardless of material. Any dirt at all has no room to displace. Hell, even paint overspray can cause it.
    Why Johnny Ringo, you look like someone just walked over your grave.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckha62 View Post
    Galling is always going to be worse on fine threads regardless of material. Any dirt at all has no room to displace. Hell, even paint overspray can cause it.
    Whelp - I'm certainly never putting a BB anywhere near a new bike until it's been chased. Never had before... lesson learned!

    Also I agree - I think it will clean up OK as long as the tap starts right. It's not cross-threaded. It just literally looks like it tore the material off the BB, and a little off the threads in the bike. I'll find out tomorrow.
    Life is too short to ride a bike you don't love.

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