Bar Slippage Q?- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 15 of 15

Thread: Bar Slippage Q?

  1. #1
    ~Disc~Golf~
    Reputation: highdelll's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    16,492

    Bar Slippage Q?

    I find that when I go into a bar that I slip really easily with my clippy shoes. They Slip easily enough, but add beer onto the floor and my drunkenness to to the equation, and things get embarrassing in front of hot chicks - are 5:10s the answer?
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  2. #2
    ~Disc~Golf~
    Reputation: highdelll's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    16,492
    Seriously though, I have a handlebar that is slipping in the clamp and need some tips.
    It's an older bike with a quill-stem, an '87 Heidelized SledgeHammer.
    I just recently got a wider bar so I could put some stubbie bar-ends on it. The ends create so much torque when I am 'gettin it' (for lack of a better term - I'm not that hard-core ) and the bar spins in the clamp. It's only a single-blot constricting style clamp and I'm at the bolt's max before strip/break for sure.

    Any tips?

    Actors:
    '80's gooseneck-quill
    '10's RF Deus...
    Obligatory Pic:
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  3. #3
    J:
    Reputation: Deerhill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    5,128
    I have an old rigid trek with similar problem (small steerer/ one bolt quill stem ). It used to have this true temper bar that was real narrow. I tried to ruff up the surfaces and "make lines" on the bar to give more grip. Worked for a bit.

    Wondering if a newer 1 1/8 stem w/ a shim for steerer would be safe..

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    175
    Perhaps you can try that carbon grip paste...it's kinda sandy and grippy.

  5. #5
    banned
    Reputation: Spinning Lizard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,435
    Back in the 80's we used to cut open a old beer can and cut a piece for a shim. Worked every time.

  6. #6
    Axles of Evil
    Reputation: SS-Dad's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Posts
    242

    Agreed

    Quote Originally Posted by Spinning Lizard View Post
    Back in the 80's we used to cut open a old beer can and cut a piece for a shim. Worked every time.
    Beer can shims can work wonders.

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Brewtality's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    5,740
    Quote Originally Posted by SS-Dad View Post
    Beer can shims can work wonders.
    But it must be a beer can. Soda cans don't work as well.
    If you are going for the hipster look, you have to go with a PBR can or something else old and vintage - Hamms, Old Milwaukee.
    If you are going for the redneck look, Budweiser.
    Personally, I would go for Dales Pale or Maui Brewing Coconut Porter cans.
    And if you do go with a soda can, it needs to be Coke. None of that commie Pepsi crap. Coke is much more All-American. And it mixes better with Jack, for consumption while you are installing your shim
    Its all Shits and Giggles until somebody Giggles and Shits

  8. #8
    ~Disc~Golf~
    Reputation: highdelll's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    16,492
    Quote Originally Posted by SS-Dad View Post
    Beer can shims can work wonders.
    Got plenty o' beer cans - I know it has worked great for an odd sized post I had before
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  9. #9
    ~Disc~Golf~
    Reputation: highdelll's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    16,492
    Quote Originally Posted by Brewtality View Post
    But it must be a beer can. Soda cans don't work as well.
    If you are going for the hipster look, you have to go with a PBR can or something else old and vintage - Hamms, Old Milwaukee.
    If you are going for the redneck look, Budweiser.
    Personally, I would go for Dales Pale or Maui Brewing Coconut Porter cans.
    And if you do go with a soda can, it needs to be Coke. None of that commie Pepsi crap. Coke is much more All-American. And it mixes better with Jack, for consumption while you are installing your shim
    IF, big if, I were to go the soda route - It'd be Mt Dew.
    I am an AM rider.
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  10. #10
    Plays with tools
    Reputation: customfab's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    4,638
    Do you have a stem that is 26.0 with your 25.4 mountain bar? That is enough of a difference that it will be a permanent PITB until you get the right stem.

  11. #11
    ~Disc~Golf~
    Reputation: highdelll's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    16,492
    I have no Idea, but there is still room (1/16-1/8") to close the gap
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  12. #12
    Picture Unrelated
    Reputation: zebrahum's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    5,123
    I always default to the beer can shim because it's awesome but for other ideas make sure the interface area is very clean. Can you tighten the bolt far enough to close the gap if there is no handlebar in the clamp? You might be hanging up on something in the clamp. And remember that that bolt is going to need to be torqued to within an inch of its life in order to hold that much force.

    And if that fails, just douse the thing in gorilla glue. That ought to do it.
    Don't you hate it when a sentence doesn't end the way you think it octopus?

  13. #13
    Probably drunk right now
    Reputation: Ken in KC's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    6,750

    The answer to your problem...

    Quote Originally Posted by highdelll View Post
    Seriously though, I have a handlebar that is slipping in the clamp and need some tips.
    It's an older bike with a quill-stem, an '87 Heidelized SledgeHammer.
    I just recently got a wider bar so I could put some stubbie bar-ends on it. The ends create so much torque when I am 'gettin it' (for lack of a better term - I'm not that hard-core ) and the bar spins in the clamp. It's only a single-blot constricting style clamp and I'm at the bolt's max before strip/break for sure.

    Any tips?

    Actors:
    '80's gooseneck-quill
    '10's RF Deus...
    Obligatory Pic:

    JB Weld or Liquid Steel. You're welcome.
    JPark - 3.5- don't listen to dremer

  14. #14
    ~Disc~Golf~
    Reputation: highdelll's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    16,492
    Fixed it - so far...
    Filed small grooves in the 'clamp' w/ a triangle file.
    I think that even a shim cold be more slippy on 2nd thought. - there are two surface-mates vs. one.
    I know it works fine for a post, but in a torque situation, I have second-thoughts
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  15. #15
    banned
    Reputation: Spinning Lizard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    1,435
    Quote Originally Posted by highdelll View Post
    Fixed it - so far...
    Filed small grooves in the 'clamp' w/ a triangle file.
    I think that even a shim cold be more slippy on 2nd thought. - there are two surface-mates vs. one.
    I know it works fine for a post, but in a torque situation, I have second-thoughts
    Dude, the beer shim has been used 1000's of times with success

    The thin metal forms around the bar and clamp to make a secure contact.

Similar Threads

  1. Slippage
    By daveholte1 in forum Singlespeed
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 10-30-2011, 09:45 PM
  2. Slippage
    By booklikeabook in forum Tooltime
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 09-24-2008, 03:52 AM
  3. EBB Slippage
    By zippo in forum Singlespeed
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 06-01-2007, 11:55 AM
  4. Slippage on Acera X?
    By ANdRewLIu6294 in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 09-21-2005, 12:46 PM
  5. ENO Slippage......HELP!!!
    By chili in forum Singlespeed
    Replies: 36
    Last Post: 09-04-2005, 08:43 PM

Members who have read this thread: 0

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2020 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.