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  1. #1
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    Fuji Reveal 1.1 - Would like some opinions

    Hey guys, recently got into MTB again and am looking to get a full suspension bike. I live in Miami. Not many mountains down here, so I wont be going downhill all the time. Parks we got have climbs and obstacles. I bought a Fuji Nevada 1.5 26er hardtail about 4 years ago, I've ridden it a lot and I love it. I saw this Fuji Reveal 1.1 at my local bike shop for $1k and was wondering what you guys think. I look at the specs and they seem pretty decent, but I'm no expert. Maybe there is something I'm missing.

    Here is the link to the bike:

    Fuji Bikes | MOUNTAIN | TRAIL | REVEAL 27.5 1.1


    Let me know what you guys think, thanks for the help

  2. #2
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    Based on everything you've said, I don't see why you aren't keeping your money and sticking with your HT. Don't let your inner "bargain hunter" get you something you never knew you needed and don't resort to letting others find reasons for you to pull the trigger on something you're unsure about.

    If you're aching for fresh gear, I'd suggest this (considering your area):

    Niner Ros 9 Plus NX Jenson 2016 Bike > Bikes > Mountain Bikes | Jenson USA (though, I'd convert it to singlespeed)

  3. #3
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    I feel like I need something better than my bike. The trails here have lots of roots and rocks so I'd like some suspension and bigger wheels. Just dont wanna spend $3k+ on a bike, and this one seems comparable to some bikes around the $1500-2000 price range.

  4. #4
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    The reality of it is that you should make the most out of the limited trail features you have. You shouldn't think to counter them; you should treat them as opportunities to have fun. FS isn't generally for making your bike cushy like a couch, it's for keeping your wheels on the ground to maintain control, such as when you're blasting through bumps on a descent (example). The suggestion I made to you in my last post would likely make you purposely aim to hit the obstacles, purely for fun.

    Best way to handle roots and rocks is to just stand and suspend your own body with your arms and legs, letting the bike go over them (same technique no matter if you have FS or HT). Frankly, it's more satisfying to ride with less perceived help from your bike, claiming that it's more technique than the bike.

    The most cushy FS bike I've ridden was the Ibis Mojo 3, and no other FS bike I've tried comes close to matching its ability to iron out the trail. That trait actually turned me off--it's not because I'm specifically against it, it's just that I know that I'd eventually feel jaded on it, and would then suffer from a sort of buyer's remorse.

  5. #5
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    I just picked up the Fuji Reveal 1.1 from Bikes Direct for $1099 shipped. Can't wait to get it in next week!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by flewbye View Post
    I just picked up the Fuji Reveal 1.1 from Bikes Direct for $1099 shipped. Can't wait to get it in next week!
    have you had a chance to ride it yet?? what do think the widest tire you could fit on there 2.8 possibly?

    not much info no this bike out there but looks like a great deal

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Mac View Post
    have you had a chance to ride it yet?? what do think the widest tire you could fit on there 2.8 possibly?

    not much info no this bike out there but looks like a great deal
    I really like it. The bike feels light and really well balanced. The finishing and construction is top notch. The bike even came with the remote lockout kit for the front fork which was not in the original listing, so essentially a free upgrade worth about $80. The suspension is smooth and easy to adjust. It doesn't come with pedals so I put some Raceface Chester's on it. Other than that I will probably leave it stock for a while. Seat is comfy, grips are secured, not slip ons, Schwalbe tires are grippy. Schimano brakes quiet and solid and Deore drivetrain is very snappy. It has attachment points for drop seat cables. I've only been able to ride the bike for about 2 hours on access roads and single track, but so far I'm really extatic about the purchase. I can take a close up of the wheel clearance to let you decide about plus tires.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by flewbye View Post
    I really like it. The bike feels light and really well balanced. The finishing and construction is top notch. The bike even came with the remote lockout kit for the front fork which was not in the original listing, so essentially a free upgrade worth about $80. The suspension is smooth and easy to adjust. It doesn't come with pedals so I put some Raceface Chester's on it. Other than that I will probably leave it stock for a while. Seat is comfy, grips are secured, not slip ons, Schwalbe tires are grippy. Schimano brakes quiet and solid and Deore drivetrain is very snappy. It has attachment points for drop seat cables. I've only been able to ride the bike for about 2 hours on access roads and single track, but so far I'm really extatic about the purchase. I can take a close up of the wheel clearance to let you decide about plus tires.
    thanks for the reply, I just came back from the bike store looking, looks like lots of room in the back on the lower section of the swing arm, the top section looked a little tighter though, really nice looking bike, reminds me of a santa cruz heckler

  9. #9
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    Yeah, seems like about about 3/8" clearance on each side of the Schwalbe 2.25" tires. I'm measuring a 2.75" clearance on the upper portion where the tire would line up so I'm not sure a 2.8 would fit.

  10. #10
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    man thanks for that a 2.5 would probably work then, I just switched from a 2.2 to a 2.5 on my 29 and was amazed, so I want to make sure it could handle at least a 2.5 you think that would work?

  11. #11
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    I think, looks like you would have about an eighth of clearance on each side of a 2.5". You are right, spitting image of the Heckler, but about a $grand cheaper. I also can't see any difference between 2016 and 2017 except Manitou vs Roxshox and paint color. Bikes Direct is selling the 2016.

  12. #12
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    I was wondering about the difference of the 16 and 17, glad you said that. what size did you get and how tall are you, I sat on a xl and thought it was a good fit for me wich is unusall because I am 5'11 with a 33 inseam.

  13. #13
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    I have a 17"/small-medium and I'm 5'8 with a 31.5" inseam. I'm guessing you would be a 19"/large.

  14. #14
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    It got a fairly positive review in Mountain Biking Australia magazine. The criticisms were of the less than fully active suspension (it's a single pivot, after all), some flex in the rear end, and some degree of pedal feedback when in the small chainring.

    Not really make or break things IMO and having owned a single pivot (Cannondale Rush) the lack of half a dozen or more small pivot points and bearings leads to a very low maintenance and generally creek free rear suspension system.
    Less isn't MOAR

  15. #15
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    I can take some more detailed pictures if anyone needs them.

    Fuji Reveal 1.1 - Would like some opinions-img_20170402_1858061.jpg

  16. #16
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    I did the same, and picked up the Reveal 1.1 from bikes direct a week or two ago. I'm having trouble engaging the lockout on the Radium Expert shock in the rear. Has this given you any trouble?

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

  17. #17
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    Here's the photo. Other team that, it seems great.

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

  18. #18
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    According to the manual it is a "soft lockout" therefore there will be some movement when enough force is applied. Essentially the lockout just firms up the rear shock, it's not a true lockout. So yeah, I had the same issues as you. I don't find a real need to use the rear lockout around here. I use the front lockout a lot more probably because it's so convenient with the remote lever.

    One thing, make sure you go through with some black electrical tape and put it on the frame where any cables could rub. It didn't take very long for me to wear through the paint on the head tube before I spotted it. The chain will slap the inside of the lower rear arm and take the paint off so that is another good spot for tape.

    Also, my grips needed tightening a little from the factory install.

    I checked the air pressure of the front fork with the bike upside down which was a bad idea because the fork has 5cc's of semibath oil used to lubricate the piston which came out of the valve into my pump. Not a big deal, it's easy to replace and is just 5w40 synthetic motor oil, but don't check fork pressure with the bike upside down.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by flewbye View Post
    According to the manual it is a "soft lockout" therefore there will be some movement when enough force is applied. Essentially the lockout just firms up the rear shock, it's not a true lockout. So yeah, I had the same issues as you. I don't find a real need to use the rear lockout around here. I use the front lockout a lot more probably because it's so convenient with the remote lever.

    One thing, make sure you go through with some black electrical tape and put it on the frame where any cables could rub. It didn't take very long for me to wear through the paint on the head tube before I spotted it. The chain will slap the inside of the lower rear arm and take the paint off so that is another good spot for tape.

    Also, my grips needed tightening a little from the factory install.

    I checked the air pressure of the front fork with the bike upside down which was a bad idea because the fork has 5cc's of semibath oil used to lubricate the piston which came out of the valve into my pump. Not a big deal, it's easy to replace and is just 5w40 synthetic motor oil, but don't check fork pressure with the bike upside down.
    Good tip, I'll avoid doing that upside down. Thanks!

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

  20. #20
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    I'm going to try to contact support on the rear shock, as I'm literally seeing no difference on lockout. There are a lot of long climbs where I am, I'd I'd like to be able to lock it out to prevent bobbing while powering uphill standing up. The front lockout is even more important for that, but hopefully I can get both set up correctly.

  21. #21
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    Let me know what they say. It's definitely not the stiffest lockout. Manitous support is really helpful.

  22. #22
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    I picked up this same bike a couple weeks ago. I absolutely love it. I've put a few hundred miles on it already. I usually ride a medium frame but opted to get the large, I am glad I did.

  23. #23
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    I'm glad you like it. Having had it for a few months now, I'm realizing that I can ride much more aggressively than I had been able to on my hardtail. It's been fun.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by pste View Post
    I'm glad you like it. Having had it for a few months now, I'm realizing that I can ride much more aggressively than I had been able to on my hardtail. It's been fun.
    I have not had a full suspension in many years. They have come along way. I love the bike.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drbo View Post
    I have not had a full suspension in many years. They have come along way. I love the bike.
    I've put a couple hundred miles on mine now and I still think it's a great bike. It is still completely stock. I haven't found a need to upgrade anything. I ride at the National Whitewater Center a lot and the bike is plenty for the toughest trails at NWWC.

  26. #26
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    I put some 2.4 inch tires on front and rear they fit fine for anyone who might be wondering if they fit, it could probably fit larger tires also but I wouldn't suggest using anything larger then 2.4 with the current rims or you might end up with tire sidewall wobble/float, I converted rims to tubeless, which has also worked great. (gorilla tape, and gredes valve stems), also converted it to a one by (30T), and a 11-42 cassette, which has worked flawless, I originally used the goatlink to help chainwrap, but in end upgraded to a Shimano Deore XT Shadow + (gs) 11 speed derailleur which still works great with the 10 speed setup, and the clutch really helps keep chain stable and less noise/chain slap, plus I could get rid of the goatlink and use the medium cage derailleur so less chance of hitting the cage on the trails, lastly added a PNW rainer dropper post. (excellent dropper)

    Removing the front derailleur and chain-rings helped shed about 1 pound from the bike, and converting to tubeless is a weight saver + huge difference, I probably added the 1 pound back with dropper post and wider tires, but worth it.

    I don't think I will do anymore upgrades after this.

    There is some potential upgrade options for the brakes, but so far these brakes have worked fine even on the steepest trails and in wet/damp/dry/hot conditions, and brake pads are reasonable for this model, I might swap out the shifter for a Deore XT model if I can get a new one cheap, so far the stock deore one has been holding up fine though.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gillroy View Post
    I put some 2.4 inch tires on front and rear they fit fine for anyone who might be wondering if they fit, it could probably fit larger tires also but I wouldn't suggest using anything larger then 2.4 with the current rims or you might end up with tire sidewall wobble/float, I converted rims to tubeless, which has also worked great. (gorilla tape, and gredes valve stems), also converted it to a one by (30T), and a 11-42 cassette, which has worked flawless, I originally used the goatlink to help chainwrap, but in end upgraded to a Shimano Deore XT Shadow + (gs) 11 speed derailleur which still works great with the 10 speed setup, and the clutch really helps keep chain stable and less noise/chain slap, plus I could get rid of the goatlink and use the medium cage derailleur so less chance of hitting the cage on the trails, lastly added a PNW rainer dropper post. (excellent dropper)

    Removing the front derailleur and chain-rings helped shed about 1 pound from the bike, and converting to tubeless is a weight saver + huge difference, I probably added the 1 pound back with dropper post and wider tires, but worth it.

    I don't think I will do anymore upgrades after this.

    There is some potential upgrade options for the brakes, but so far these brakes have worked fine even on the steepest trails and in wet/damp/dry/hot conditions, and brake pads are reasonable for this model, I might swap out the shifter for a Deore XT model if I can get a new one cheap, so far the stock deore one has been holding up fine though.
    Any chance you could post links to the one by 30T, 11-42, derailleur, and dropper? I want to do these upgrades, but I want to make sure I get the right part. Thanks!

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by flewbye View Post
    Any chance you could post links to the one by 30T, 11-42, derailleur, and dropper? I want to do these upgrades, but I want to make sure I get the right part. Thanks!
    sure
    For a dropper post you will need a 30.9 size, I bought the PNW Rainer (sold out everywhere now), an alternative would be the PNW Cascade which is nicer since it has the cable fixed to the side, where the Rainer has the cable at seat mount, other brand droppers should work too, as long as its 30.9., for me 120mm of travel is perfect but someone else might need 150mm travel you just don't want one that goes to high and then you cant reach the pedals.
    https://www.pnwcomponents.com/collec...-6mm-diameters


    Chainring = Blackspire 30T (threaded - 104 BCD), I suggest using the granny gear screws to mount it since they are slightly longer, (or you can purchase 10MM long screws if you want them to be perfect.)
    Blackspire Snaggletooth Narrow Wide Chainring | Chain Reaction Cycles
    Btw only the 30T is 'threaded', if you get the 32T..etc you might need to get spacers and screws to get proper fit, I went with 30T because it gives a similar ratio as it was with stock gearing.

    Derailleur = Shimano XT RD-M8000 11 SPD Med cage (GS)
    https://www.backcountry.com/shimano-...ear-derailleur

    Cassette = Sunrace MX3 10 Speed 11-42 (they have a cheaper MS series but I went with the MX line, can choose color (black silver..etc).
    https://www.amazon.com/Sunrace-10-sp...dp/B01KTRUNG4/

    (they also make a 11-46 model but its hard to find, and I haven't tested it)

    For tools you will need
    1. Cassette lockring tool (to remove/install cassette)
    2. Chain Whip tool
    3. torque wrench (up to 50+NM, essential)
    4. rubber mallet (to remove crank so the old chainrings can be removed)
    5. Shimano Hollowtech-II crank-arm/cap tool, TL-FC16 (to properly remove or tighten plastic preload cap on crank arm)
    6. Grease, grease gun (to re-grease crank when re-assemble)
    7. Chain Pliers to remove the missing-link on chain (or can twist a wire around it until pops free)
    8. Cable cutters to shorten dropper post cable length.
    9. Various Allen wrenches

    Torques
    10 NM for derailleur mount screw
    1.2 NM for Plastic Hollowtech-II crank-arm preload cap (strips easy)
    12-14 NM - Crank arm, each turn alternate screw when tightening! (make sure they are tight!, check torque again after first few rides).
    -
    Last edited by Gillroy; 12-26-2017 at 12:13 AM.

  29. #29
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    I to am also considering a Fuji Reveal 1.1 Have a few questions for the owners of this bike.
    How is the 140mm travel on singletrack and all around riding?? Am quite interested in any mods you've done to your bike. Gillroy, great mods on your bike
    Any of your bike photos appreciated.
    Most of my bikes have been Treks, But I am thinking of going to 27.5 full suspension.
    Any help, opinions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

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