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Thread: Where to start?

  1. #1
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    Where to start?

    So I want to learn how to build a mountain bike. I have the mechanical skills and I have a basic understanding of putting a bike together.

    What I dont know is where to go to learn what parts fit which other parts? Where do I learn which hubs fit which wheels? Which cranks fit which bottom brackets? Which sprockets will fit on what hubs?

    Things like that.

    Any good websites?

    Thanks in advance!

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  2. #2
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    Do you mean build as in make a frame? Or assemble as in buy the bits and bolt it all together?

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    I have the same questions

    I have always wanted to buy a frame then put on all the parts

  4. #4
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    Buy a frame and buy the bits and assemble

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  6. #6
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    I'm off work with a bad back, so plenty time to kill. Lets make a start, first i presume you are on about modern MTB's

    Wheels, 3 different diameters
    26" Virtually dead in mainstream MTB world (i'm ignoring £200 store bikes) Still used on the odd Downhill bike, still the go-to size in dirtjump world, i think also slopestyle bikes. Common on Fat bikes too.

    27.5' / 650B Probably the most common diameter currently, available on almost everything it seems

    29" Was the choice of the XC purist, but now making massive ground in descent orientated world. Lots of Downhill teams are making the switch to them over the last race season, so expect them on sales room floors very soon. All-Mountain/trail/enduro/downduro/over-mountain, everybody loves a different name!! I'd just call it a Mountain Bike. All are now switching en-mass to offer 29" versions of their range.

    Side note! there is a movement called the "mullet" 29" front for the greater contact area and better roll-over. 27.5 rear So if you are a short ass like me, you don't get a tyre battling your ass cheeks.

    Axle widths front wheels.
    100mm 9mm Quick release: (virtually dead)
    20 x 110mm through axle : Downhill
    15 x 100mm through axle : Non-Boost (common)
    15 x 110mm through axle : Boost (ver common, current "standard")
    20 x 110mm through axle : DH Boost (very new)
    rear
    135mm x 9mm Quick Release arguably dead)
    135 x 10mm bolt up or bolt in : Dirt jump not sure what else?
    135 x 12mm bolt through : the beginning of bolt through (dead)
    142 x 12mm bolt through : Non-boost (the standard for many years)
    148 x 12mm Bolt through : Boost Took over from non-boost, the current "standard"
    150 x 12mm bolt through :Standard DH for many years
    157 x 12mm bolt through : Rare on trail/enduro bikes New DH standard

    Casssette fitment again 3 types
    Shimano Hyperglide: was THE standard for years and years, its variations that accepted 7,8,9,10,11 and 12 speed, but with smallest cog possible 11tooth

    Sram XD: they brought out this driver a few years ago for there own 12 speed cassettes that could have a 9 tooth sprocket

    Shimano now have microspline for their new 12 speed, it goes down t a 10 tooth sprocket (Very Very rare, shimano had big problems getting it to market in 2018 as the factory burnt down!) But it's coming.

    Gears, Basically
    : shimano shifters work with shimano rear mechs.
    : Sram shifters work with SRAM rear mechs
    chainrings/cassettes/chains are interchangeable (as long as you stick with same number of speeds) Some combinations work better than others.

    Front derailleurs are all but dead, shimano still do them, not many people buy them.

    Hence front chainrings are now thick/thin (to match inner and outer plates of chain) this helps stop chains jumping off.

    Forks,
    eveything used to be 1 1/8' straight
    Now tapered is the norm 1 1/2' to 1 1/8'
    Weird 1 1/2' straight did exist for a while.

    Headsets.
    oh dear lord, there are too many sizes! CaneCreek website is good. Basically 1 1/8' straight will fit in ANY modern frame. Tapered will fit in nearly every frame thats been built in the last 4 years.

    Bottom brackets
    There are a few types of different pressfit standards (bearings are pressed direct into frame, or into a collar mounted within the frame) this is mainly in carbon frames. Lot and lots of people hate them due to the fact that they can creak
    Common on nearly all metal frames (and more recently) a few carbon frames are screw-in type BB's these are commonly called BSA or Italian they are both the same 1.37" x 24TPI (this standard has been around for many many years) widths are 68mm or now more commonly 73mm

    All the big manufacturers have their own bottom bracket/chainset/axle standard. Theres very little cross compatiblity. You can buy in boost or non-boost the difference is 3mm of chainline. I've run the wrong ones several times and had no issues.

    That should get you started!!! what do you want next?

  7. #7
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    Awesome that is plenty for me to take in to begin with.

    That gives me a amazing starting point.

    Thanks for the link as well.

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  8. #8
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    Thanks pvd. Will do.

    I am wanting to learn as much as I can.

    Obviously first step is deciding the type of riding I plan on doing but after that is it the frame you buy and build around it or forks and build around those or wheels or something else or does that really matter?

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  10. #10
    pvd
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    All chassis start at the tires.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by pvd View Post
    All chassis start at the tires.
    Amazingly helpful insight into choose a bike. (Or have I misread sarcasm? )

    Tyres are very important, they do after all attach you to the floor. And thats pretty important last time I checked.

    Riding type is vastly important, riding time (how long, not how often) riding style, riding ability, terrain, conditions, racing, playing, beating your mates, enjoying the scenery,,, (in no particular order)

    Before you’ve even gotten started it’s a blooming long list.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cord View Post
    Amazingly helpful insight into choose a bike. (Or have I misread sarcasm? )

    Tyres are very important, they do after all attach you to the floor. And thats pretty important last time I checked.

    Riding type is vastly important, riding time (how long, not how often) riding style, riding ability, terrain, conditions, racing, playing, beating your mates, enjoying the scenery,,, (in no particular order)

    Before you’ve even gotten started it’s a blooming long list.
    I didn't read as sarcasm.

    I think after as you have also added to type of riding, skill level, and goal of riding that starting at the tire level and building up made sense to me.

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  13. #13
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    Suspense is killing me, what tyres have you been looking at?

    So what is your riding type, terrain etc,,,, have you looked at anything yet? I LOVE a new bike, and even get excited when someone else is buying one.

  14. #14
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    Lol. So I am happy with my recent hardtail I purchased. It's nothing special. A 2019 giant fathom 2. For trails in Indiana I think my skills and that bike will get me through just about any single track I can find nearby in the Midwest. *** EDIT: I should say more like 90% of the trails I am sure there is some gnarly stuff a hardtail can't handle and is above my skills***

    What I think I want to build is a bit of a street/park bike. Single speed possibly/probably rigid need to read up a bit more there. Don't have specific on tires or parts yet.

    But I think keep it simple the first build.

    After that then I will look to build a new hardtail. I just really like the idea of have something that is ”perfect” for me.

    The fathom 2 will hold me over and give me te to get my feet wet and a simple build (not saying any build is simple but less complicated the a multi speed hard tail or maybe a full speed eventually) will help me understand better what I want/need hopefully.

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