Welding out chainstays- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Welding out chainstays

    So i finally finished my second frame, My first tig'd one. Overall i'm syked and the welding went pretty well, however the hardest bit by a very long way was the chainstays. I had so much trouble trying to get in there with the torch.

    I tried a few cups and amounts of stick out and i just found it so hard! Using a #9 torch with a small backcap. I found when i could get in there, i couldn't see anything anyways.

    Has anyone got any tips for making it a bit more accessible? Or is it just suck it up and get better?

  2. #2
    EAT MORE GRIME
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    practice on junk a lot
    "Put your seatbelt back on or get out and sit in the middle of that circle of death." - Johnny Scoot

  3. #3
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    I use one of these: https://furickcup.com/product/fupa-12-kit/

    You can have a LOT of stickout, although you need to use more argon. It also really lights the whole area up so you can see where you're going better, as long as you have a decent helmet.

    I don't _always_ use that cup, because it's fragile and pricy, but it's amazing for getting a good look at the work area.

    I am _not_ a super experienced welder either. It's a nice crutch

  4. #4
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    Nice thanks, ill check out the furick cup they look good, ive heard alot about them. I reckon ill just cut a few fake joints and give it a bunch of practice

  5. #5
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    I'm guessing you're referring to the chainstay bridge? The chainstay-BB junction tends to be pretty straightforward, but those bridges can be tricky. A small cup definitely helps, I also use a Furick cup. Something else that's nice to have in your bag of tricks is a piece of sheet metal and spring clamp. If you're in a situation where you need TONS of stickout to get a certain section you can use the sheet metal on the other side of the work to trap the argon in that little space. It's astonishing how much stickout you can use if the argon isn't just blowing through the other side.

    But yeah, also practice.
    Myth Cycles handbuilt bike frames
    Durango, CO
    http://www.mythcycles.com

  6. #6
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    Can get away with a 8 shade in the hood if need but a 9 is safer. Get a cheater lens if you donít have one already, I am up to a 3x now but started at a 1.5x when my eyes were better.
    Donít limit yourself to what direction you weld around the joints - do whatever is easiest to see. Not sure if youíre trying to weld in the fixture but donít. Have it on the table or in a Park clamp to swivel it any which way to get sight of every spot.
    There shouldnít be any place you canít see or access except maybe under seatstays/seat tube, and bridges and then youíre kinda using the Force


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  7. #7
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    ah nice yeah the cheater lens idea sounds like a shout. I don't wear glasses so i never really thought about it but i reckon ill give that a go. I have a 9 in there at the moment, and its pretty good, i found pointing a bright desk lamp into the tight joints improved the visibility a bit.

  8. #8
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    The mag shade is a great idea, but in a pinch you can use reading glasses. Bernie Mikkelsen told me that a long time ago. Not as good of a solution, but it works and it's cheaper.

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