DRILLING HOLES in 22 YR OLD CANNONDALE FRAME- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    DRILLING HOLES in 22 YR OLD CANNONDALE FRAME

    I know this might seem like a cardinal sin, but someone out there has surely thought about and figured out a way to do this !!!

    I am putting Cable Discs F&R which require full length Cables on my old commuter... The Front was taken care of with a Carbon Fork. The rear however is a little more challenging.

    I am fabricating a mount with out any holes in the Left Chain Stay. I want to enter and exit the Top Tube and Seat Tube on the way back to the rear caliper.

    I can drill on top of the two Factory Stops on the Top Tube - but the Seat Tube has no Stops to drill on top of...

    I am a welder and fiberglass fabricator and have worked on Sailboat Masts for 40 years. The Aluminum we use is 6061 T6. And after 30 - 40 years - it gets harder than T6.

    I know 90's Cannondales are much thinner wall Type 7000 aluminum and heat treated - and Tig Welding is not recommended on a Heat Treated Cannondale Frame - (too much Heat).

    In my industry we drill a hole at an angle and insert a slightly smaller diameter hardened steel tool pushing down and opening up the hole so it has a hooded shape inside and out side.

    If the Cannondale Tubing is thought to be to hard or too thick in the Top Tube where the two Stops are - a few seconds of a torch could anneal an area the size of a dime and the tubing/stop would move quite easily. I plan on a repaint job when all mods are finished...

    A reinforced entrance guide/tube could be fabricated in Aluminum or Carbon Fiber and epoxied on top of the opening - helping to offset any weakening of the area...

    Been looking for Bike Tube InLet Fittings - but everything is plastic out of China:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Road-Bike-S...97.m4902.l9144

    Any Tube/Entrance Fittings - in the US ?

    Surely there will be some comments ?

  2. #2
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    Is there a functional need to route the cable internally rather than surface mounted?

    Also, I'd be more focused on ensuring the new rear brake doesn't tear the frame apart. Disc brakes impart a significant amount of torque that usually requires a bit of reinforcement to the tube they are mounted on. Maybe you've already got this covered though.

  3. #3
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  4. #4
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    I say drill drill baby.
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  5. #5
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    "These things are very fancy commuter bikes or really bad dirt bikes, but they are not mountain bikes." - J. Mac

  6. #6
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    I say cable ties. Putting brake lines inside the frame is one of the stupider ideas to emerge over recent years and there is no merit in being fool enough to emulate it.

  7. #7
    Let's just wheelie!
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    Noooo!!!!

  8. #8
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    Dude, seriously, just drill out the cable stops so you can run the brake hose through them, then for where you don't have stops, just use stick on ones with cable ties, don't risk fvcking up the frame. Links to 2 different options below, I prefer the Jagwire ones myself.

    https://www.jensonusa.com/Jagwire-St...Housing-Guides
    https://www.jensonusa.com/Problem-So...n-Cable-Guides
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  9. #9
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    Nobody has yet mentioned that cannondale frames of that vintage are known to be sketchy and prone to cracking, anyway?

    This is a recipe for encouraging that process along. Putting a disc brake on that frame at all will encourage that process along, so the fabbed mount had better address the necessary reinforcement.

  10. #10
    U sayin' Bolt ?
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    Yep, just run a front disc. That's where it really matters. The minimal benefit of a rear disc is not worth even a 1 percent risk of causing a catastrophic failure.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    Nobody has yet mentioned that cannondale frames of that vintage are known to be sketchy and prone to cracking, anyway?

    This is a recipe for encouraging that process along. Putting a disc brake on that frame at all will encourage that process along, so the fabbed mount had better address the necessary reinforcement.

    They didnít earn the nicknames Crackendale / Crackenfail sitting back on their laurels.


    First thing I thought of as well.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Pig View Post
    I say cable ties. Putting brake lines inside the frame is one of the stupider ideas to emerge over recent years and there is no merit in being fool enough to emulate it.
    This ^
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  13. #13
    the discerning hooligan
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    This certainly falls under the "can it be done" heading, rather than "should it be done". If you want an old 26er disc commuter frame , it's way cheaper to go to craigslist than it is fabricate, weld, and then paint an old Cdale. At any rate I'd guess the frame building forum is the best place to ask.
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by DIRTJUNKIE View Post
    They didnít earn the nicknames Crackendale / Crackenfail sitting back on their laurels.


    First thing I thought of as well.
    Itís CrackNfail, not CrackNdale, get it right.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    Itís CrackNfail, not CrackNdale, get it right.
    One mans CrackNfail is another mans CrackNdale.
    Quote Originally Posted by mileslong View Post
    I passionately remove rocks and corners and other stuff I find too hard to ride.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Abendicum View Post
    I am a welder and fiberglass fabricator and have worked on Sailboat Masts for 40 years. The Aluminum we use is 6061 T6. And after 30 - 40 years
    It's not a modification I would tackle. I'd run the cable on the outside-it's how we did it in the long, long ago. But you go around every day poking holes in sailboat masts. I think your level of expertise surpasses my own.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by RustyIron View Post
    It's not a modification I would tackle. I'd run the cable on the outside-it's how we did it in the long, long ago. But you go around every day poking holes in sailboat masts. I think your level of expertise surpasses my own.
    True, he has expertise most of us lack. But he's still talking about a 22yr old cracknfail. I wouldn't even pay someone to modify that frame. It's a time bomb, honestly. It isn't if the frame will crack, but when.

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  18. #18
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    I can't believe there's a 22 year old C-dale in use that hasn't fallen apart yet.
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  19. #19
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    My personal opinion is with what most have already stated here, but over on the "Frame Building" forum, there are some well known and experienced frame builders that regularly chime in.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrianU View Post
    My personal opinion is with what most have already stated here, but over on the "Frame Building" forum, there are some well known and experienced frame builders that regularly chime in.
    I was thinking the same thing and moved the thread on over.
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  21. #21
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    Well, I personally won't even put internal cables on brand new steel frames that I build, because I think they're so stupid. Why would you want to route a brake cable internally on a 22 year old bike? I'd rather ride around with zipties and electrical tape holding the line on, honestly.

    If you're desperate for disc brakes, get a new frame (or just run a disc on the front where it actually makes a difference).

    If you have a sentimental attachment to the bike, hang it up in the garage before it breaks and enjoy looking at it.

    Otherwise, just ride it as-is. V-brakes will stop you just fine on anything that bike can safely tackle.

    -Walt

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by life behind bars View Post
    This was a good idea and what I was going to suggest. The surface area of a cable stop is too small for epoxy, but there's very little pulling a housing guide off.

    Riveting on a cable guide is a less good idea. But at least the holes are only 1/8", IIRC, which is about half the diameter required for internal routing.

  23. #23
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    OK the Nays have it...

    I found a no holes solution - a 3 way Cable Stop that will fit on the front of the down tube. I would take the rear brake cable off the Top Tube (It gets in the way of shoulderin this bike or stuffing it into my PT Cruiser).

    I will rout all 3 cables on the front of the down tube with 2 other existing cables that could remain stoped under the bottom bracket. Here is the 3 way stop that can be drilled out to become a guide -

    https://www.cycle-frames.com/bicycle...tml?quantity=1

    Its designed to be riveted - but I'll go with some epoxy and temporary hose clamps to secure them. They are nice and wide as opposed to the braze on type - that have 1/4 the footprint...

    When I get the rear mount fabbed up - I'll figure out how to get some pictures and post them here...

    Ab

  24. #24
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    I dunno OP, seems like going through a lot of trouble for a commuter where a nice cable disc front and v-brake rear would be more than enough. I ran a commuter like this for a while and it worked fantastic, most braking comes from the front anyways.
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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    I dunno OP, seems like going through a lot of trouble for a commuter where a nice cable disc front and v-brake rear would be more than enough. I ran a commuter like this for a while and it worked fantastic, most braking comes from the front anyways.
    I agree - I rode my fixed gear everywhere with only a front brake (and my legs to slow down the rear, which wasn't as much as an actual brake; I wasn't a skidder though). AND, that front brake was a 30 year old schwinn rim brake. AND, it was down some of the steep hills in Salt Lake City.

    I honestly don't see a need for it on the street. If you were riding trails, that would be another story.

  26. #26
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    My last two custom frames had brake studs brazed on. V brakes with ceramic rims stop a single speed just fine in all conditions, and in some remote parts of the world, you're only going to find a brake cable and 26" tubes. In Iceland I'd be SOL if I needed to bleed my brakes at the LBS.

    I'd stick with Vs and red Koolstop pads and call it good.
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