Braze on Frame Repair- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Braze on Frame Repair

    I bought an old Lemond frame and the downtube shifter bosses/cable stops were broken off or removed for some unknown reason. I want to have these replaced (properly) with as little damage to the paint as possible.

    The yellow Lemond logo is about 4 inches away from where the work will take place. Think it's possible to braze these pieces back on without wrecking the original yellow paint? (I realize I'll have to touch up the Black). I plan on contacting a local frame builder and hope he will accept the project. I just wanted some other opinions on the situation.

    Any input would be appreciated.

    Thanks

    Braze on Frame Repair-img_6783.jpg

    Braze on Frame Repair-img_6784.jpg
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  2. #2
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    The Lemond Logo should survive unless the person wielding the torch is a total hack.

    The paint for 2-3" all around the boss, on the other hand, is going to get nuked.

    It looks like they were broken off? Practically no silver there so at least it didn't damage the tube.

    Good luck!

    -Walt

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the reply. It looks like someone carefully removed as much of the silver as possible without touching the tubing. Probably used a file? Seller was very vague about what and why certain things happened to this poor frame. It clearly has some history, lovingly referred to as "Character."

    Good news on saving the logo. If it were a bare tube I would take a crack at it myself, but I'd rather learn on something I never plan on riding.
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  4. #4
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    Reputation: life behind bars's Avatar
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    I'd try some high strength epoxy before I lit the torch on it.
    "These things are very fancy commuter bikes or really bad dirt bikes, but they are not mountain bikes." - J. Mac

  5. #5
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    IIRC that bike was from the era when just about all bikes used STI/Ergo levers but still had mounts for down tube shifters (for...just in case???)* with cable stop adapters. Assuming you’re not using DT shifters, you may want to replace with cable stops rather than the original solution.

    *kinda like how it took a long time for mountain bikes to “commit” to disk brakes as most had disc tabs AND canto bosses for quite some time.

  6. #6
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    While they are not particularly attractive, if you want to keep the original paint intact you might consider clamp-on cable stops or shifter bosses;
    https://problemsolversbike.com/products

  7. #7
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    Good input, thanks. (BTW the frame is a 2000) I've considered everything that was mentioned. I contacted a local frame builder and he said he would be happy to do it, but also recommended I take a crack at some high strength epoxy first.

    I really want to make it right, but I guess I have nothing to loose. I'll try some JB Weld before torching the paint. If it holds, great. If not I have a backup plan and a guy willing to help.

    A buddy donated some old bosses, Suntour I believe. Look just like the "vintage Campy" ones I found on eBay with a wide, square base.

    I'll post some pics when I get them glued.

    Thanks again for the feedback.
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  8. #8
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    Just make it a fixie with no brakes and you won't need no stinking bosses as you ride around town. Maybe that's why they were broken off?

    btw, my fixed gear has brakes, front and rear. I like to ride where there are hills. And while I may slow a bit just with my legs, I kinda feel like doing that a lot might wreck my knees.
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  9. #9
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    I'd recommend putting a set of tube blocks above the logo you want to keep, acting as a heat sink.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by briderdt View Post
    I'd recommend putting a set of tube blocks above the logo you want to keep, acting as a heat sink.
    This. Just as a little more insurance. I was going to suggest a wet rag, but this could work too. Not sure which one will do better with softened paint.
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  11. #11
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    If you're going to try epoxy first, instead of JB Weld, I'd consider some 3M DP420 (amazon link) to maximize you chances of having it work (yes, this stuff is much more expensive than JB Weld, but overall cost still isn't that high).

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Feldybikes View Post
    If you're going to try epoxy first, instead of JB Weld, I'd consider some 3M DP420 (amazon link) to maximize you chances of having it work (yes, this stuff is much more expensive than JB Weld, but overall cost still isn't that high).
    So I already purchased the JB Weld (which I have no real experience with) at a small local hardware store, then watched a video of an epoxy comparison where it came in 5th out of 6 tested. The two winners were Locktite Metal and Quick Steel. Now your recommending DP420.

    I have no experience with any of this. I'm not opposed to paying for a good product, but do I need to buy that special applicator too? Honestly if the cost of the epoxy reaches a critical point, I'll just have the thing brazed for the same price.

    The video I watched https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bM4I...el=TroutJunkie shows them using a long stud with much greater leverage than the short bosses I'm using. Plus the bosses have a square base and are a fraction of the length of those studs in the video. I feel like even the JB weld is plenty strong but have no good basis for that opinion.

    I'm open to your thoughts if you have more experience with these products than I do.
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  13. #13
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    DP420 comes in that applicator, it is a premixer that dispenses it at the proper ratio of the 2 parts.
    "These things are very fancy commuter bikes or really bad dirt bikes, but they are not mountain bikes." - J. Mac

  14. #14
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    If it wasn’t clear before, I think brazing is the best way to go anyway, but you’re unlikely to hurt anything by trying epoxy. If you’ve already purchased JB Weld, you could certainly give it a shot. And while you’re right that there’s not a terribly long lever arm, shifter cables are under constant tension, so there’s fatigue to consider, too. I.e. things may work fine for awhile and then give way at some point. But using the relatively large surface area shifter bosses will skew things in your favor.

  15. #15
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    Just to provide some closure, I tried the JB weld. It wasn't great. It may have held had I not goop'd up the threads and tried to run the screw in there a few times. After a couple of attempts it popped off.

    I ended up buying a Problem Solvers clamp-on shifter boss. I'm tired of this project sitting here with one small part holding up the entire operation. For now it will live with the clamp on adapter. I just want to get this thing rolling and move on to the next project.

    I'd still like to have it properly repaired at some point, but right now I just want to ride it.

    I started hanging parts on it last night, all that's left is running cables and wrapping the bars. Thanks all for the input. I'll come back and post finished pics if anyone wants.

    Here's the adapter I used.

    Braze on Frame Repair-problem-solvers.jpg
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

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