2018/9 Signal Peak- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    2018/9 Signal Peak

    Big Edit:

    So I ordered an XL frame because the reach of 485 was similar to the reach of 490 on my Smash... then I mocked up the build and the actual reach was 20mm greater on an XL Signal Peak than on my Xmedium Smash!

    I think it must be the steeper HTA pushing the bars more forward, but regardless, it was way too long, so it looks like another frame delay cuz Iílll need to exchange franes. Iíll try to place an order tomorrow for a pre-weekend delivery.

    Here's the build, all used parts other than the fork:

    Signal Peak Largr Frame, Slate Blue, Fox Float DPS Factory
    RS Pike 29/27+, 140mm, 42mm offset
    FSA Integrated Headset
    Chromag 35mm stem, 750mm low rise bars
    One Up 170mm Dropper and One Up CF Lever, Serfas Seat
    Shimano XT brakes
    SRAM DUB GX 165mm Cranks, 26t Oval Chainring, GX Drivetrain, e13 Cassette, Chester Pedals
    DT Swiss 350 hubs/Duroc 40 rims, Ikon 29 x 2.6/ekon 29 x 2.8
    DT Swiss 350 hubs/Scraper i45 rims, Rekon 29 x 2.6/Kennebeck 29 x 2.6

    I will say that the frame looks very good in blue, it's a matte finish, not as dark as it appears on the website, more of a blue gray, very attractive if you're into looks
    The green frame is gloss, also not bad looking, but it shows chips and it's very shiny. I'm way more into the matte look.

    The finish on the frame is clean, no uglies, no chips, looks like new

    The frameset comes with an FSA integrated headset, pre threaded internal housing, and a lovely Fox Float DPS Factory shock. That's a really nice shock for a mail order frame, esp for $2200.

    Build pending...
    Last edited by Nurse Ben; 01-21-2019 at 10:51 PM.
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  2. #2
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    Glad to see Fezzari has their own section now! Also glad to see you got your frame situation sorted out.

    Looking forward to seeing it come together.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  3. #3
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    Edit: large frame arrived, looks great, but no shock, so Iím waiting until next week when the shock gets here

    Mock up to size is a much better fit, the large frame is true to size.
    Last edited by Nurse Ben; 01-25-2019 at 09:58 PM.
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  4. #4
    Jim Dunks
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Large Frame just arrived, building tonight, shoudl be riding tomorrow!
    Post some pics!

  5. #5
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    29 x 2.6 Rekon, 10mm mud room to stays and seat post at full compression. No way would a bigger 29er tire would fit in the 27.5 suspension setting, maybe a 29 x 2.2-2.3

    2018/9 Signal Peak-bc01fed7-a416-4c8b-a24b-48a1f34d61d8.jpg

    Nice fit in size Large, definitely not a short bike, size as you normally would. One Up 170mm dropper fits fine at full insertion, though I may need to reduce the dropper travel 5-10mm as I donít have enough inseam for the post when slammed, might be wrong but the seat post tube is relatively long.

    2018/9 Signal Peak-335856a9-9af7-4bea-aa26-910abea86171.jpg

    Running rear brake and drivetrain later today, gotta go dig trails
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  6. #6
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    Looking good so far! I beat my SP up for 44 miles today at the Swamp, a trail known for being hard on bikes & riders, and it was ready for more when I wasn't. Liking this thing a little more every ride.

  7. #7
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    Looks good!

    One tip when assembling this bike is to remove the fork and then run the brake and derailleur cable from the BB to the headtube. It makes it really easy to route if you do that.

    For the shifter cable inside the chainstay you can remove the rear most port, feed the housing in the front hole, use a pick tool to grab the end of the cable housing, then replace the port cover.

    If you havenít don it already your dropper is also easy to route from the ST to headtube. Itís harder to route from the headtube to rear of bike. With the fork removed it is easy to get the cables out the front port holes.

  8. #8
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    Yup, already ran everything, had to use my pinkie finger inserted into the B.B. to work the dropper housing up into the seat post tube, the brake housing has to be started from the back end because the fitting is too big for the front access, probably best to run the rear brake housing first since itís the largest.

    I wouldnít say it was easy, the housing is stiff, the holes are small, my fingers are xxl. I had to hook the housing and pull it through, not impossible, but life is short and I ainít getting any younger. I have no problem with having my lines on the outside of the frame, it makes it easier to work on the bike.

    Still gotta bleed the brake, install the shock, and adjust the drivetrain, should be up and running Tuesday morning for a pre-work ride.
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  9. #9
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    Agreed the the external cables, so much easier to deal with and usually smoother runs for the shifter cable.

    Another quirk I had was the left side headtube "cable port" cover was designed only for the brake line on top. I always run the brake line below the shifter housing for a cleaner cable job, so I had to trim the cover a bit with a razor knife so the brake line would fit.

    They really should make covers for all options, the shifter housing is a little loose in the top "brake" notch. I'll eventually pop it off and put a wrap of electrical tape on the housing there to tighten it up.

  10. #10
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    Finally got my shock, USPS misdirected the first shock, misplaced the second shock, I finally tracked down the first shock by meeting up with the carrier on her rounds; seriously USPOS is not worthy it these days.

    Got the shock mounted, set up the suspension, ride around in circles, a few manuals, some hopping, feels pretty good, definitely not to steep, ready for the first ride tomorrow morning.

    2018/9 Signal Peak-7cb5fa75-2e2d-4049-b016-880acbc0bd75.jpg

    Preliminary ride feedback:

    Took a short ride on my backyard trails, a few miles just to get a feel for the bike and set up the suspension. The suspension is very supple, didn't ride hard enough to max it out, but I ended up bumping the shock pressure from 160psi to 170psi to minimize bottom out and to improve pedal squat.

    It's a very different bike from what I have been riding, HTA with a Pike 140mm fork is ~67deg, whereas my steepest HTA on previous bikes in the past couple years was 66deg. So it feels quicker, though not unstable, shorter wheelbase manages turns easier.

    The build went well other than waiting for the shock, had to bleed the rear brake after threading the line through the frame; honestly I think internal routing is dumb and unnecessary. All routing cleaned up nicely with the frame plugs, no rattling, no issues with cable/chain growth which is minimal at full compression; maybe 10mm at most.

    I ended up running a single spacer on the drive side BB (DUB) and used the adjustable spacer on the non drive side. I didn't have a 3mm offset boost chainring, so I'm running a 0mm offset ring and it works fine; backpedals without dropping the chain.

    Brakes are Shimano XT single piston, running a shimanl post mount adaptor on both ends with 180mm rotors. Brakes installed and lined up easilly, no issues. These are plenty of brake for this kind of bike.

    My fork is a Pike 140mm, 42mm offset, MRP ramp cartridge. It's a beefy fork for this kind of bike, I would have gone with a Fox SC, but they max out at 120mm; I'd take 130mm. The bike does not seem especially raked out, but then I'm used to bigger bikes. I could see running a 130mm fork, but I'm not feeling like changing air shafts at the moment.

    The Fox Flaot DPS works well, easy set up, running the middle damping setting, 4 of 14 clicks on compression, 170psi, no issues, feels smooth and supple.

    I'm running a One Up 170mm dropper pulled out ~10mm for a 34" inseam. I can get full insert without question, might even take a 185mm dropper; not worth the $$ at this point.

    The Signal Peak is my lightest bike in a while and it's very noticeable, easy to pedal uphills, easy to hop, manuals well, frame is quite stiff even when landing sidewise off a hip. I'm running Rekon 2.6 on i45 Scrapers, so clearance is a tad tight at ~5mm with the chainstay wrapped. I'll be swapping wheels to Duroc 40 (id 35mm) and Ikon 2.6 which should improve clearance. I'd like to have another 5mm in clearance so I could run a burlier 2.6 out back. Conservatively, I'd say a Minion 2.5 WT is the widest aggressive tire you could run with adequate mud clearance.

    Other than rear tires clearance, the bike rides pretty well for a hopped up XC bike. For some folks this would be enough bike for all mountain riding. I don't know that I'd hold back if I was in big technical terrain, but I'd ride slower to keep from maxing travel. I bought the Signal Peak for XC riding, maybe some endurance racing, bikepacking, gravel burning, etc... and for those purposes this is a great bike.

    If I was a weight weenie or liked steeper HTA, the Fox SC 120mm fork would be ideal.

    I'll see about getting a bike weight this week.
    Last edited by Nurse Ben; 02-01-2019 at 02:04 PM.
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  11. #11
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    Trying to figure out if it would be better to make a Signal Peak more aggressive or try to scale back a La Sal peak and make it more XC. I feel like I want something right in between the two! Looking at lots of options, but intrigued by frame only/custom options because I like to build my self vs. completes. Ripmo, Primer, RM Instinct, Hightower ... all in the mix.

    Thinking Signal Peak, but want HTA of <=66 and at least 140mm up front. But sticking with Pike or Fox34 type fork, not Lyric/36. ( Although a 36 would be sweet...which pushes you towards a La Sal )

    coming from Intense Spider 29r comp w/140mm up front. ( guessing 67/68 HTA - but otherwise not so long, low or slack as new crop of bikes )

  12. #12
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    The La Sal is a 150mm travel bike, which is a big mountain bike in my book, esp in a 29er.

    Fezzari has a gap in the carbon frame lineup, there's nothing in a mid travel except the aluminum Abajo and Cascade. Of course there's nothing wrong with aluminum, but I'm sure most folks will want carbon at the price Fezzari is selling bikes/frames.

    If you're looking at bikes like the Ripmo and Hightower, the Signal Peak is really not going to be the bike for you. Granted, it'll certainly go big, but it's really just a short travel XC bike.

    If you can tolerate a longer travel bike, the La Sal would be a good choice, review are solid, price is exceptional.

    If there were a carbon version of the Cascade/Abajo (130-140mm), that'd be a comparable bike to the Hightower (135mm). I'd buy that bike

    Quote Originally Posted by slcpunk View Post
    Trying to figure out if it would be better to make a Signal Peak more aggressive or try to scale back a La Sal peak and make it more XC. I feel like I want something right in between the two! Looking at lots of options, but intrigued by frame only/custom options because I like to build my self vs. completes. Ripmo, Primer, RM Instinct, Hightower ... all in the mix.

    Thinking Signal Peak, but want HTA of <=66 and at least 140mm up front. But sticking with Pike or Fox34 type fork, not Lyric/36. ( Although a 36 would be sweet...which pushes you towards a La Sal )

    coming from Intense Spider 29r comp w/140mm up front. ( guessing 67/68 HTA - but otherwise not so long, low or slack as new crop of bikes )
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    The La Sal is a 150mm travel bike, which is a big mountain bike in my book, esp in a 29er.

    Fezzari has a gap in the carbon frame lineup, there's nothing in a mid travel except the aluminum Abajo and Cascade. Of course there's nothing wrong with aluminum, but I'm sure most folks will want carbon at the price Fezzari is selling bikes/frames.

    If you're looking at bikes like the Ripmo and Hightower, the Signal Peak is really not going to be the bike for you. Granted, it'll certainly go big, but it's really just a short travel XC bike.

    If you can tolerate a longer travel bike, the La Sal would be a good choice, review are solid, price is exceptional.

    If there were a carbon version of the Cascade/Abajo (130-140mm), that'd be a comparable bike to the Hightower (135mm). I'd buy that bike
    Yeah, you're 100% right. maybe Fezzari will come out with a new version of one of those mid-travels bikes! That is more what I'm looking for, just taken by the value buzz around fezzari ATM.

    i could still "tolerate" ( ha! ) the longer travel - it would be awesome in the desert and when things get technical ... but in reality that is a small portion of my riding ... and yet ... that's when i want it the most too. I can handle dragging the bigger bike around park city day after day ... i think ... but something in the middle would still be ideal.

    thanks for your input.

  14. #14
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    Every few years I seem to reconfigure my quiver; with a lot of quiver refilling in between, and my current needs are a short travel 29er for long rides and non technical rides (Signal Peak) and a mid travel 27.5 for getting rowdy.

    I ride a GG Smash 29er, itís currently set up as a 27.5+, 140/160 bike that serves my big hit duties. I changed from 29Ē to 27.5Ē wheels because I found it was just too tall with those big wheels and long travel. Iím moving toward a mid travel bike like the GG Shred Dogg, 27.5+ 140/150 bike with a shorter wheels base, shorter chainstays, and a lower standover/stack.

    If Fezzari has a carbon version of the Cascade, Iíd be interested.

    Iím sure the La Sal is s good bike, but itís a lot of bike for every day riding.


    Quote Originally Posted by slcpunk View Post
    Yeah, you're 100% right. maybe Fezzari will come out with a new version of one of those mid-travels bikes! That is more what I'm looking for, just taken by the value buzz around fezzari ATM.

    i could still "tolerate" ( ha! ) the longer travel - it would be awesome in the desert and when things get technical ... but in reality that is a small portion of my riding ... and yet ... that's when i want it the most too. I can handle dragging the bigger bike around park city day after day ... i think ... but something in the middle would still be ideal.

    thanks for your input.
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  15. #15
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    So Iím thinking about getting an SC 34 120mm 51mm offset for my Signal Peak. This is the fork that they sell with the completes. The 42mm offset Pike seems to make the bike a bit twitchy, and itís heavy, and Iím not even sure I need that much travel in a XC bike.

    Also picked up a 45mm stem to try in pace of the 35mm stem, see if it slows things down.

    Also contemplating an Angleset, the downside bring the additional 5mm of stack.

    Snow ride I the morning if you can trust the forecast...
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  16. #16
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    Lots of tweaking and riding this morning, mix of snow, firm, and muck. Switched to a 45mm stem, then a 60mm stem, played with bar height, seat position, gradually worked my way to a higher bar height with the seat centered, and stayed with the 45mm stem. I find the bike a little more stable and comfortable with a longer reach and the bars slightly about seat height.

    When riding fast on rough terrain thereís a fair amount of feedback into the bike, more than an aluminum frame, Iím thinking itís due to the frame stiffness; it is a stuff frame with minimal flex. The stiffness is a nice change, I think I got used to sloppiness in my other bikes, the Signal Peak is very much a point and shoot bike. Low speed handling is good, no issues with tech.

    Climbing is very efficient, nice forward position with the steeper STA, no issues with front wheel lift, though it manuals very easily even with the heavy front end (Pike). Though the reach is shorter than my Smash, the seat to bar distance is greater, so I used the longer stem to split the difference.

    I was riding a Rekon 2.6 on s Scraper i45 our back, mud room was tight, maybe 5mm. I swapped wheels to Duroc 40 (id 30mm) and swapped to an Ikon 2.6 out back and Rekon 2.6 up front. The Ikon has a slightly lower volume than the Rekon and the edge knobbies are smaller; also the rim is 15mm narrower. The result is way more mud room, at least 10mm all the way around, which is more than adequate.

    Since this tire set up was my intended end point, I think the tire capacity is sufficient for a typical 2.6 on a normal with rim (id 25-30mm), a wider rim like a Duroc 50 or Scraper i45 spreads the tire out too much.

    Nice bike, lightweight, quick, pretty sporty for an XC bike. Iím still contemplating a different fork, but a reduction in travel would steeper the HTA, so I might have to add an angleset to compensate, not sure its worth the trouble. Still up in the air about the fork offset, maybe it isnít an issue.

    2018/9 Signal Peak-511b8969-114c-4922-9af4-bdc2ce0c19b4.jpg2018/9 Signal Peak-939a3d0a-7c14-4f26-8dfc-e04e4f09dc66.jpg
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by slcpunk View Post
    Trying to figure out if it would be better to make a Signal Peak more aggressive or try to scale back a La Sal peak and make it more XC. I feel like I want something right in between the two! Looking at lots of options, but intrigued by frame only/custom options because I like to build my self vs. completes. Ripmo, Primer, RM Instinct, Hightower ... all in the mix.

    Thinking Signal Peak, but want HTA of <=66 and at least 140mm up front. But sticking with Pike or Fox34 type fork, not Lyric/36. ( Although a 36 would be sweet...which pushes you towards a La Sal )

    coming from Intense Spider 29r comp w/140mm up front. ( guessing 67/68 HTA - but otherwise not so long, low or slack as new crop of bikes )
    Pretty much a Cascade peak but carbon?

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  18. #18
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    Ben, my understanding is that increasing the fork offset decreases the "trail" which will actually make the steering more responsive.

  19. #19
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    I know what youíre saying, but that hasnít been my experience, I have two bikes with 42mm offset forks and the change from 51mm made them handle quicker. Iím no engineer, but thatís my experience. Iím pretty satisfied, and forks are pricey, so Iíll probably stay with what I have or get an angleset.

    Quote Originally Posted by derkommissar View Post
    Ben, my understanding is that increasing the fork offset decreases the "trail" which will actually make the steering more responsive.
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  20. #20
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    Have you considered Works Components headset instead of Cane Creek?

  21. #21
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    Right now weíre snowed in, so itíll be a bit before Iím back on the Signal Peak; my fattest tires are on my Smash (2.8Ē).

    My goal is to ride the Signal Peak without making drastic changes in geo, do Iím just gonna ride it as is for a bit, though Iíd like to try it with s shorter travel 51mm offset fork.
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  22. #22
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    I'm running the Fox 34SC 120mm with 51mm offset and the steering/handling is spot on for me (60mm stem). Very intuitive on low speed tech climbs and stable at speed. It's really similar to my Flux v4.

    Although I do wish I had a little more travel up front on occasion. ;-)

  23. #23
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    Yeah, thatís the thing, Iím using all my travel, so do I really want less? I also like the extra B.B. height. I may play with an angleset, but first I need done open trails to ride, really need to get some miles on the bike to figure out what I want.

    It rides really well, but Iíve gotten so used to a long and slack bike, it just feels weird, not terrible, just different. For a bike like this, Iím not the best reviewer. For me the bike is a win if I ride it a lot.

    Edit: Just ordered a CC Angleset ZS44/ZS56 with all three cups (0.5, 1, 1.5), should have it installed by this weekend. I've used anglesets in the past, never had issues with creaking or getting "stuck", liberal use of antiseize is helpful. My current HTA with a Pike 140mm is ~67deg, so a degree slacker should be pretty obvious.

    I'm still intrigued by a lighterweight short travel fork, but I'm using all 140mm of my Pike now, so I'm not sure it's worth it, esp if I want a slacker bike; the angleset would at most offset the steeper HTA plus half a degree.

    Jordan at Fezzari knows his stuff, thanks for the help!

    Quote Originally Posted by wfl3 View Post
    I'm running the Fox 34SC 120mm with 51mm offset and the steering/handling is spot on for me (60mm stem). Very intuitive on low speed tech climbs and stable at speed. It's really similar to my Flux v4.

    Although I do wish I had a little more travel up front on occasion. ;-)
    Last edited by Nurse Ben; 02-06-2019 at 03:44 PM.
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  24. #24
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    Got the angleset and realized Iíd ordered the wrong lower cup. A tapered steerer wonít work with an internal cup (ZS), so you gotta use an EC cup, which results in a 13mm increase in stack. I know that, I was spacing out when I ordered; description said ďtapered head tubeĒ.

    With a 140mm travel fork, Iím already 20mm taller than the stock 120mm travel fork, so an additional 13mm is kinda excessive and likely out of warranty.

    If I was running the Fox SC 120mm fork, Iíd lose 20mm of travel and drop some weight, using an angleset -1.5 deg cup Iíd slack the HTA to 66 deg.

    A compromise would be to reduce the Pike to 130mm and run the Angleset -1.5 deg cup which would give me an HTA of ~65.5deg.

    My HTA is at 67deg now... at this point Iím not sure itís worth the effort.
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  25. #25
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    Howís about the Signal Peak as a 27.5+:

    2018/9 Signal Peak-dc8bb7a8-c893-413d-91d8-eb70cf77270b.jpg

    2018/9 Signal Peak-65c20628-3e66-46e8-9048-1a3b0c1672d7.jpg

    Flipped the chip, B.B. height 340mm, had plenty of mud room, Hans Dampf 27.5 x 2.8 on Scraper i45 rims, rides very sporty, much more playful and agile than the 29er set up.

    Two bikes in one 👌
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  26. #26
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    I am trying to get my head around this. From what I gather the GA link is in the forward position for 27.5 and the rear position for 29, right?

    And can you try the chip each way with 29 wheels? Or does that drop the BB too much?

  27. #27
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    I think you can use the chip in either position for 27.5; probably be kinda low in the 29 setting, but you might have interference if you ran the chip in 27.5 while riding 29Ē wheels; or itíll just have a high B.B. Iíll check for interference the next time I swap to 29Ē wheels

    Quote Originally Posted by Georgia_Rider View Post
    I am trying to get my head around this. From what I gather the GA link is in the forward position for 27.5 and the rear position for 29, right?

    And can you try the chip each way with 29 wheels? Or does that drop the BB too much?
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  28. #28
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    Iím really digging the Signal Peak as a 27.5. Iím kinda surprised Fezzari doesnít advertise it more as a 27.5, it might be better suited as a short and wide bike, fits 27+ like it was ďmade for emĒ.

    Iíll still ride the Signal Peak mostly as a 29er once my new Shred Dogg frame gets here, butvgir now itís a nice little trail bike.
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  29. #29
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    Got in a ten plus mile ride on some flowy and technical trails, bike handled well, left the shock open and never noticed any bobbing, running 160psi which is about 1/3 sag. Iím 195#.

    I am still thinking about an angleset, not that 67deg is that steep, itís just steeper than Iím used to, 65-66deg is more my thing.

    The 140mm Pike is sweet, no issues with it feeling tall or heavy, short offset is nice for stability at speed.

    The bike really climbs well, very light, good climbing platform, canít wait to put in some long days this spring.
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  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Got in a ten plus mile ride on some flowy and technical trails, bike handled well, left the shock open and never noticed any bobbing, running 160psi which is about 1/3 sag. Iím 195#.

    I am still thinking about an angleset, not that 67deg is that steep, itís just steeper than Iím used to, 65-66deg is more my thing.

    The 140mm Pike is sweet, no issues with it feeling tall or heavy, short offset is nice for stability at speed.

    The bike really climbs well, very light, good climbing platform, canít wait to put in some long days this spring.
    FWIW, Bike or some other mainstream site did a quick review of the SP. Said it bobbed badly with rear shock wide open. Not a great climbing bike even in the middle mode. Just found it.
    https://www.bikemag.com/gear/first-r...i-signal-peak/

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by westin View Post
    FWIW, Bike or some other mainstream site did a quick review of the SP. Said it bobbed badly with rear shock wide open. Not a great climbing bike even in the middle mode. Just found it.
    https://www.bikemag.com/gear/first-r...i-signal-peak/
    Not my experience or I would have sent it back, but to each their own.

    I call BS or at least they didn't really ride the bike/had it set up incorrectly.

    I'm running 30% sag, have gone down to 20% and as much as 40%, even when I max travel the effect is not overwhelming.

    I've done some sustained steep climbing "off piste" over hill and dale, through rock gardens and lots of junk, never lost traction even when an enduro bike would have been a better choice.

    It's a good climber, very efficient, no issues with bob or jim or suzie

    I bought the SP for endurance riding to replace a hardtail and I'm quite satisfied.

    Edit: What's really funny is the La Sal Peak and the Signal Peak have the same suspension design, but when they tested the La Sal Peak it didn't bob, but the Signal Peak did bob, very curious, I would have expect the opposite. So yeah, BS, nonsense.

    Also curious that their test bike has a Fox 34, but they sell the bike with a SC 32 or a Rev.

    What I would say to all the folks looking at a Fezzari bike: If you like what you see, geo, price, etc... then order it, ride, keep it or return it, easy peasy.
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  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by westin View Post
    FWIW, Bike or some other mainstream site did a quick review of the SP. Said it bobbed badly with rear shock wide open. Not a great climbing bike even in the middle mode. Just found it.
    https://www.bikemag.com/gear/first-r...i-signal-peak/
    Weird, I did 60 miles today on mine with 4200 feet of climbing - it was efficient enough for me. Left in wide open mode all day.

    A couple weeks back I took a 20 mile gravel KOM on it in trail mode with trail tires. I had it previously on my Czar with smaller tires, but some CX guys skanked it a while back - was really just out to compare it with the Czar ride.

  33. #33
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    After a few months to riding snow and mud with 27+, I switched back to 29Ē Rekon 2.6/Ikon 2.6; this will be my ride configuration for XC and endurance riding.

    I had more time to play with suspension settings, was finding the back end kind firm, had about half my rebound in, so I backed it off to zero and man did it get plush, continued to adjust in smaller increments and found the sweet spot with four clicks, just enough for control without over controlling. Open damper setting in the middle (2).

    I just did some reading on this DPS EVOL and the negative-positive air chambers, seems that they need to be balanced with the shock pump attached or the negative side can get overpressured.

    Worth reading: https://www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=824
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  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by wfl3 View Post
    Weird, I did 60 miles today on mine with 4200 feet of climbing - it was efficient enough for me. Left in wide open mode all day.

    A couple weeks back I took a 20 mile gravel KOM on it in trail mode with trail tires. I had it previously on my Czar with smaller tires, but some CX guys skanked it a while back - was really just out to compare it with the Czar ride.
    4200 feet in 60 miles is a pretty flat ride.
    Can you express objective comparisons between your old Czar and the SP? I'm gonna guess there's no comparison in climbing between the 100mm DW vs the 120 Horst-based design.

  35. #35
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    When you're in FL you get what you get for elevation ;-)

    I'm a big fan of DW link for tech climbing and still think it's the best design for that, but I'm really surprised how well the newer HL bikes compare. For grind it out longer climbs further north I doubt they'll be that different - weight and tires will have more impact IMO (along with bike fit). I put in a lot of roadie miles and have a pretty smooth cadence.

    Gonna roll the SP in the 6hr this weekend, will see how it does against all the racer boy Epics & Top Fuels and the younger legs pushing them.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by wfl3 View Post
    When you're in FL you get what you get for elevation ;-)

    I'm a big fan of DW link for tech climbing and still think it's the best design for that, but I'm really surprised how well the newer HL bikes compare. For grind it out longer climbs further north I doubt they'll be that different - weight and tires will have more impact IMO (along with bike fit). I put in a lot of roadie miles and have a pretty smooth cadence.

    Gonna roll the SP in the 6hr this weekend, will see how it does against all the racer boy Epics & Top Fuels and the younger legs pushing them.
    Apologies, my 'flat ride' comment came across as snarky.
    Thanks for the input, and have fun at 6hr this weekend.

  37. #37
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    No apologies needed. We know it's kinda flat here. ;-)

    But you would be surprised how the repetitive, steep, tech climbs affect riders from up north that are used to more settled in, rhythmic climbing - especially in the summer. :-)

    Lots of redlines with very short to zero recovery windows.

  38. #38
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    Pics! More please of the blue and outside in the sun! Thank you. Nice ride

  39. #39
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    Not quite in the sun, but a good idea of the color. Post gravel ride pic.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2018/9 Signal Peak-img_20190221_171406.jpg  


  40. #40
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    Nice! Captures the true color better than the website.

    DT Swiss wheels suggest a custom build. What else did you put on it? Did you buy a frameset only?

  41. #41
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    Yeah, frameset only build up. Light-ish XC build, 34SC 120mm, 1x11 drivetrain, XT brakes, XMC1200 wheels (actually have a lighter set). Mostly lighter weight parts except the Fox Transfer dropper, but that thing has been solid and quiet so I can live with that.

  42. #42
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    Wfl3 how was it at your 6hr event?
    I've got a line on a newer sc Blur frame. Trying to decide between the two.
    Cheers

  43. #43
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    Bike did great, I under performed. 3rd overall solo, but did better in the training rides leading up to it.

    Let a lot of people ride it after the race, since no one has seen one over here. Everyone was really impressed, particularly how quiet and smooth it was after 6 hours of racing. One of those bikes that's just fun to ride.

  44. #44
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    Good to hear. Fun is the goal. Don't recall; what's your build weight?

  45. #45
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    Right at 25lbs in that picture. It's a large frame, frame was 6lbs (including shock & hardware)

    24.5lbs with the other wheels. 24lbs would probably be about as low as mine will ever get with a dropper, but I'm thinking more along the lines of a 130mm or 140mm fork with some wider wheels now. ;-)

  46. #46
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    Wow, nice. That's the weight I'm after however will likely be more with gx drivetrain, Bonty Line pro30 carbon wheels, 130mm Fox 43 FIT, Fox transfer dropper, guide ultimate brakes.
    Where in FL are you? I'm in Englewood until Wednesday. it's long shot, but if we're close I'd like to check out your ride

  47. #47
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    NE FL - Jax area

  48. #48
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    Pic from the first ride. A Little different light

    2018/9 Signal Peak-resized.jpg

  49. #49
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    Running 27.5 x 3 Specialized ground controls on my Tallboy. Would a conservative 27.5 x 3 fit on the bike or are you limited to 2.8? Thanks.

  50. #50
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    27.5 x 2.8 a good fit, 3Ē would be too tight.

    29 x 2.6 is s good fit, 2.8Ē is too tight.

    Quote Originally Posted by djdavis View Post
    Running 27.5 x 3 Specialized ground controls on my Tallboy. Would a conservative 27.5 x 3 fit on the bike or are you limited to 2.8? Thanks.
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  51. #51
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    Signal Peak Review

    I recently bought a Signal Peak (Size XL) and thought I would weigh in here to give back since I relied on a bunch of online posts, including on mtbr, before taking the leap of faith on a bike I hadnít ridden from a company I didnít really know.

    The best way I can describe the bike is that it is exactly as-advertised: it pedals like an XC bike but descends and handles rough trails like a 150 mm trail bike. I laughed my way through two familiar, downhill rock gardens before it sunk in what was going on with the Signal Peak: I hadnít used my brakes. These were sections where, on my prior bike, I would grit my teeth, ride the brakes, and bounce up and down grimacing. The Signal Peak floated right over them. Same goes for technical uphill sections. I cleared with relative ease not only rocky uphills I had previously labored up at best, but also a few sections I used to walk. Admittedly I am not the best technical rider, but my point here is that the bike really made up for my shortcomings.

    My point of reference, if it helps, is an S-Works Epic World Cup full suspension with 100 mm of travel. It is about 2+ pounds lighter. (And yes, I know that this is about as ďXCĒ as a FS bike comes.) I am convinced, however, that the Signal Peak will prove faster, at least for me, on real single-track and frankly on anything but fire roads or smooth dirt climbs (and even then just due to the weight difference). Itís also a lot more fun.

    Two more things I really appreciate about the Signal Peak:

    (1) The setup was impeccable. They spent a lot of time with me on the phone to get it right. Despite this, I had envisioned the normal, long and sometimes frustrating process of adjusting and fitting to get the Signal Peak dialed in once it arrived. As it turned out, I installed the front wheel, bar and saddle, and the bike was spot-on. I threw a leg over the bike and it felt immediately dialed-in. There was no need to adapt my body or style to the bike because we had already adapted the bike to me.

    (2) The cable routing makes it wonderfully quiet. No more cable slap or chatter when you hit the rough stuff. All you hear is the sound of your tires on the trail.

    Oh yeah, a third: two water bottles in the frame. I tend to do longer rides but hate humping a Camel Bak, so this was key for me.

    Hope this was helpful.

  52. #52
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    Yup, it's a nice bike, everything you wrote it spot on ... but I'm not sure it rides as smooth as a 150mm bike, maybe 120+

    I use the water bottle for my dogs.
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  53. #53
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    Since the SP doesn't have ICSG 05 mounts, I put an MRP adapter on it, and am trying to install a One Up bash guard, but the chain ring is hitting the bolts on the guard. Has anyone here put a chain guide/bash guard on a Signal Peak? According to SRAM, I need a 2mm spacer for the crank, and it appears that the MRP is 2mm, basically replacing the spacer. Without the guide, the crank cinches on perfectly.

    Any help is much appreciated!
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  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleKinColorado View Post
    Since the SP doesn't have ICSG 05 mounts, I put an MRP adapter on it, and am trying to install a One Up bash guard, but the chain ring is hitting the bolts on the guard. Has anyone here put a chain guide/bash guard on a Signal Peak? According to SRAM, I need a 2mm spacer for the crank, and it appears that the MRP is 2mm, basically replacing the spacer. Without the guide, the crank cinches on perfectly.

    Any help is much appreciated!
    Sorry, canít help you, though I donít see why youíd need a bash guard on an XC bike, butvto eachbtheirbown.

    In theory you can use a bash guard in place of the spacers, yes.
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  55. #55
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    I want to use a chain guide/bash guard because I'm not really an XC rider, and I will likely bounce the thing off of a rock or two at some point along the way. It's main purpose right now is the Kokopelli trail next month, and there's plenty of opportunity to beat it up out there.
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  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleKinColorado View Post
    I want to use a chain guide/bash guard because I'm not really an XC rider, and I will likely bounce the thing off of a rock or two at some point along the way. It's main purpose right now is the Kokopelli trail next month, and there's plenty of opportunity to beat it up out there.
    The whole thing or just the stuff around Fruita?

    Make sure you wrap the frame.
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  57. #57
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    Well, she is finally complete. I began acquiring parts for this build back in November, with the majority of the components including the frame being black Friday sale items. The drive train is the obvious exception...

    Frame: Fezzari Signal Peak, Large
    Fork: MRP Ribbon, 130mm
    Bottom Bracket: SRAM threaded
    Drivetrain: SRAM AXS XX1 Eagle
    Wheels: Reynolds TR249S Carbon
    Tires: Maxxis Forekaster, 2.35 F/R tubeless.
    Brakes: SRAM Guide RSC
    Dropper: PNW Bachelor 150mm w/ Wolftooth lever (matchmaker)
    Handlebar: Renthal Fat Bar Carbon 35mm
    Stem: Renthal Apex 50mm
    Grips: Lizard Skins Peaty
    Saddle: Ergon SME3 Pro
    Frame protection: UplndStoke

    Not sure when I'll have a chance to get out and ride some proper trails, but I'm pretty happy with how it feels up and down the neighborhood.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2018/9 Signal Peak-20190419_111949.jpg  

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  58. #58
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    Damn! That is a sweet set up. Post some follow-ups with ride impressions.

  59. #59
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    Nice bike, but Iím a little confused ... you donít ride weekly?

    Dang, I feel bad if I only get in a couple rides a week, most weeks I ride three or four times; double days when I can get it.

    Well hopefully you get some riding done before summer hits.

    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleKinColorado View Post
    Well, she is finally complete. I began acquiring parts for this build back in November, with the majority of the components including the frame being Black Friday sale items. The drive train is the obvious exception...

    Frame: Fezzari Signal Peak, Large
    Fork: MRP Ribbon, 130mm
    Bottom Bracket: SRAM threaded
    Drivetrain: SRAM AXS XX1 Eagle
    Wheels: Reynolds TR249S Carbon
    Tires: Maxxis Forekaster, 2.35 F/R tubeless.
    Brakes: SRAM Guide RSC
    Dropper: PNW Bachelor 150mm w/ Wolftooth lever (matchmaker)
    Handlebar: Renthal Fat Bar Carbon 35mm
    Stem: Renthal Apex 50mm
    Grips: Lizard Skins Peaty
    Saddle: Ergon SME3 Pro
    Frame protection: UplndStoke

    Not sure when I'll have a chance to get out and ride some proper trails, but I'm pretty happy with how it feels up and down the neighborhood.
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  60. #60
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    Nice looking build with the red highlights. Please post a ride review when you get a chance!

    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleKinColorado View Post
    Well, she is finally complete. I began acquiring parts for this build back in November, with the majority of the components including the frame being black Friday sale items. The drive train is the obvious exception...

  61. #61
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    Thanks king_dave. I will definitely do so!
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  62. #62
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    Ordered a Fox SC34 120mm/51mm offset to replace my Pike 140/42mm offset.

    I wanted to drop weight and speed up the handling for endurance riding.

    Should get it installed this week... review to follow.
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  63. #63
    Jim Dunks
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Ordered a Fox SC34 120mm/51mm offset to replace my Pike 140/42mm offset.

    I wanted to drop weight and speed up the handling for endurance riding.

    Should get it installed this week... review to follow.
    Looking forward to your review! I am running the SC 34 also. I think the Signal Peak is going to be awesome on the Park City trails with this fork but I think the bike with a 130 or 140 would be really awesome in the more chunky rocks. Cheers!

  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by gryeti View Post
    Looking forward to your review! I am running the SC 34 also. I think the Signal Peak is going to be awesome on the Park City trails with this fork but I think the bike with a 130 or 140 would be really awesome in the more chunky rocks. Cheers!
    I'm getting the fork Friday, then I'll go do some big climbs and tech descents.... it'll either be okay or it'll suck.

    With the 140mm Pike, I get some pushing and vague steering input unless I really get forward, I'm thinking this may be due to increased stack and slackened HTA.

    I'm not an XC guy per se, so I'm not accustomed to throwing long travel forks on short travel bikes; though I have done it with some success.

    I kinda feel like the limiting factor in terms of performance on the SP is the rear suspension and travel, that said, with this fork change I will gain a degree of HTA which is more of concern for me than losing 20mm of front end travel.

    If I like the fork but the HTA is too steep, I'd add an external lower cup to regain 10mm of stack and/or add an angleset; anglesets use external cups so a -5deg external cup would return me to my current HTA.

    I have a big bike, so what I want from the SP is a sporty 29er for going fast, long days, big climbs, bike packing. The SP replaced a hardtail that I was going to use for these purposes; but I've gotten old and can't handle the hardtail abuse.

    I rode to the top of Ash to King last night, which is 90 minute climb, starting on moderate DG slopes, leading to technical, rocky, tight trails. The bike handled well both up and down, coming down I hardly touched the brakes, just let the bike run. The uphill was a nice change from hauling around an enduro bike, so light and efficient, it was awesome not to be totally flagged at the top.
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  65. #65
    Jim Dunks
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    Just rode my Signal Peak on the Grand Junction off road course. I am running the Fox SC front fork. I was nervous about how this bike would do out on course but I was surprised in a good way how it did. The fork did get overwhelmed a few times but I think that is expeceted on this sort of terrain. I didn't notice the rear end not keeping up with the terrain but I also think the limits of the front end contributed to this. Climbing is excellent as expected. The rear end tracks really well on the all the step ups. I do wish the bike was a bit more slack but I don't think I will change things up as it is really fun the way it is.

  66. #66
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    Swapped forks from a Pike 140mm/42mm to a SC 34 Float Fit 4 120mm/51mm (factory fork). First ride a mix of road, double track, single track, lots of rough terrain and tech.

    Pros: Bike felt more agile, less understeer, used up the travel quicker so I ran a slightly stiffer front end, didnít find the bike to skittish, handling was better in some instances, less of the front wheel wanting to push, easier to weight the front end. Very light and supple fork.

    Cons: The SC 34 is marketed as a trail fork, Iíd call it a lightweight trail fork, itís a bit flexier than a Pike and more easily overwhelmed. I noticed a little less stability at speed likely due to the steepened HTA, also felt like I needed some more stack height; already have 30mm stem spacers and 15mm riser bars.

    I like the fork, the pros outweigh the cons for my needs, but Iím going to add an external headset to the upper and lower to increase stack, reduce spacer use, and slacken the HTA by 0.5 deg.
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  67. #67
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    Can anyone rate the stiffness of the frame when compared to other frames, especially in the rear?

  68. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikenut316 View Post
    Can anyone rate the stiffness of the frame when compared to other frames, especially in the rear?
    Scale of 1-10, the Signal Peak is ~ 8, essentially a non issue.

    I'm 200#, I ride hard and like to get air. I like to go off hips, landing sideways, no issues with tire or chain rub which are usually a good sign of frame stiffness.
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  69. #69
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    Ditto what Ben said.

    It's laterally stiffer than my Czar, maybe even my Flux v4. Much stiffer than the Sniper I tried (the SP frame is also a pound heavier so it better be).

  70. #70
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    So Iím really enjoying the SC34 fork, no issues with pedal strike, overall ride quality is good, though the loss of 20mm travel and the change to a longer offset has quickened up the bike and reduced stability.

    I was looking for a way to increase stack and slack out the front end, first option was get an external lower cup, but there is no such think when youíre talking about a 56mm ID head tube, so an angleset is the only option. 44mm/56mm.

    Iím contemplating the purchase...

    BTW, if anyone is looking to overfork their Signal Peak, I have a fairly fresh 2018 Pike 29/27+ RCT3 fork, 140mm travel, 42mm offset with an MRP Ramp Cartridge, $700 obo.
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  71. #71
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    You could always try some offset bushings on the shock to slacken the head angle. I've used these with great results. the bushings on the SP are likely 8mm so two would give you a 1deg steeper HTA, but also slacken your STA by a degree as well, which may not be too big of an issue since the SP has a fairly steep STA anyway. Easy to order. just plug in your frame model, year, shock to order and they will tell you if they can make the bushings for you.

    https://www.offsetbushings.com/colle...-bushings-pair

    https://www.offsetbushings.com/pages/how-they-work

    Average adjustment - Pair of Offset Bushings
    ē6mm diameter - 3mm offset each, ~ 1.5į head angle adjustment.
    ē8mm diameter - 2mm offset each, ~ 1.0į head angle adjustment.

  72. #72
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    Good idea, I could also change the shock setting to the low position.

    Quote Originally Posted by wadedro View Post
    You could always try some offset bushings on the shock to slacken the head angle. I've used these with great results. the bushings on the SP are likely 8mm so two would give you a 1deg steeper HTA, but also slacken your STA by a degree as well, which may not be too big of an issue since the SP has a fairly steep STA anyway. Easy to order. just plug in your frame model, year, shock to order and they will tell you if they can make the bushings for you.

    https://www.offsetbushings.com/colle...-bushings-pair

    https://www.offsetbushings.com/pages/how-they-work

    Average adjustment - Pair of Offset Bushings
    ē6mm diameter - 3mm offset each, ~ 1.5į head angle adjustment.
    ē8mm diameter - 2mm offset each, ~ 1.0į head angle adjustment.
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  73. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Good idea, I could also change the shock setting to the low position.
    Cane Creek also makes a +6mm crown race that may work for your application?

    https://www.canecreek.com/product/6m...race-baa1078k/

  74. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by tlechnow View Post
    Cane Creek also makes a +6mm crown race that may work for your application?

    https://www.canecreek.com/product/6m...race-baa1078k/
    Yup, that's an option, still need to buy a CC headset either way.

    I don't hate it as it sits, the XC capability is much higher with the SC 120 fork. Did a long day in the saddle with a few thousand feet of climbing and descending, it was a stellar ride, and the bike was a joy to ride.
    For Sale: XMed GG Smash Frameset +
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  75. #75
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    Finally got some real riding in on my pet project... Over 100 miles from Mack, CO to Moab, UT on the Kokopelli Trail. I'm gonna be 48 in June, and am well over 260 with pack and gear, and am pretty intermediate overall, with a fear of heights. I ride because I enjoy it, and I need it for fitness as my knees can't take the pounding of hiking and running anymore.

    Anyway, my impressions are very good. The bike rode quite well overall, and felt pretty controlled most of the time. My other bike is an SB150, so I'm used to that long, stable platform, but the Signal Peak was very composed. I think I need to dial in the MRP fork more, as it felt a bit chattery to me running with the recommended specs. At one point I turned the rebound down a couple clicks, but didn't play with anything else. AXS, as expected, is the best thing since cordless sliced bread, including the Reverb, which was flawless. I really liked how the Forekasters handled the sandy bits, and they had no problem with the slickrock.

    Bike felt stiff and solid, and handled all of the tech that I was willing to ride quite well, including a lot of UPS. Full disclosure, I still walked plenty of that, being my first time on that trail. I bailed at the top of LPS and cruised Kokopelli proper down.

    I think for the money this bike is definitely a winner.
    Yeti SB150 - Dental Apprentice Edition
    Fezzari Signal Peak - Custom build in progress

  76. #76
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    Just ordered a custom frame bag, bar bag, and seat bag for bike packing.

    I ended up changing the link to low, reducing head angle a tad, this feels better overall. I might get a thicker racevwith CC headset, but I donít really think itís necessary. Though I miss the longer travel fork for descending, for everythingís else the SC120 is excellent.

    Great bike overall.
    For Sale: XMed GG Smash Frameset +
    Lrg GG Shred Dogg
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  77. #77
    Jim Dunks
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    I rode the Grand Junction off road (30 miler) on my Signal Peak last weekend. What a bike! I shaved 20 minutes off my time from last year. I have built up around 25 pounds w/ pedals and to me that is light. The bike handled everything very well up and down. The 4 mile climb on the two track has always broken my spirit but this year at the top I was still enjoying myself and got to enjoy the remainder of the course. Great bike. I had a blast on it.

  78. #78
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    Hey all,

    Curious if any current owners of the SP can remark on the differences between running the bike as a 27.5+ vs 29. Does the plus size feel more capable in rougher terrain? I know big hit stuff might not make much a difference with 120mm of travel, but just curious what your impression is with respect to the two wheel sizes.

    I ask because I am debating selling two bikes to get a nicely specced SP with two wheelsets and hot swap between the two. I am in search of Nirvana: the ultimate bike that can be my 100mm XC race bike and my 140mm trail bike in one.

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