Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide - Page 2- Mtbr.com
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  1. #201
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    The 203mm seems to fit fine with the stanchion guards. I was assuming the issue is torsional as Nurse Ben suggests. On rotor size - yes pad contact area is a significant factor, but so is the diameter of the disc. With a larger disc, less pressure is required at the pads (and the finger) to provide the same stopping force - picture the disc as a fan of levers. Same amount of heat energy generated per stop (after all that is where the energy goes) but as NB stated, it is dissipated quicker with a larger disc.

  2. #202
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    I am 250 with gear and use 180 rotors on a set of Guide RSC and have not once wanted more stopping power.

  3. #203
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCHKeys View Post
    I am 250 with gear and use 180 rotors on a set of Guide RSC and have not once wanted more stopping power.
    I will try, since it is a long time ago I tried 180 rotors. Last time I was really disappointed whith brake Power.

  4. #204
    vmk
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    I printed stanchion guards for my older Wren. I can't upload stl-file here, but if anyone want's it just let me know and I can share it somewhere else.
    https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-g...2/DSC_0354.JPG
    Painted:
    https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-b...2/DSC_0356.JPG

  5. #205
    pit
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    Hi,

    I 've read this thread with interest. I've got a bluto in front of my Mutz and i hate the feeling of this fork. It doesn't match the rear of the bike and it doesn't seem to be stiff enough (i live in france, i ride in Nice backcountry and in the Alps sometimes. So the ground is rocky, dry and hard with long climbs and gnarly trails; not especially fast downhills, i rather enjoy technical and slow downhills ).

    Is the Wren really a good combo with the Mutz ? Does it feel like noodle in tight turns or under "hard" braking ?

    I'm over 100 kgs with equipement and hydration bag.

    Ho.....and i've got 200 mm brake in the front and rear.....(Magura MT5, i like them a lot)

    Thanks,



    Steve

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by pit View Post
    Hi,

    I 've read this thread with interest. I've got a bluto in front of my Mutz and i hate the feeling of this fork. It doesn't match the rear of the bike and it doesn't seem to be stiff enough (i live in france, i ride in Nice backcountry and in the Alps sometimes. So the ground is rocky, dry and hard with long climbs and gnarly trails; not especially fast downhills, i rather enjoy technical and slow downhills ).

    Is the Wren really a good combo with the Mutz ? Does it feel like noodle in tight turns or under "hard" braking ?

    I'm over 100 kgs with equipement and hydration bag.

    Ho.....and i've got 200 mm brake in the front and rear.....(Magura MT5, i like them a lot)

    Thanks,



    Steve
    You will for sure find that the Wren is doing the change of the Mutz behaviour like you are missing With the Bluto. I felt that the Bluto made restriction of the use of the bike and of course it did not keep up in rough terrain.

  7. #207
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    First ride report on Wren 150/150.
    Wren at 60psi, full 150mm travel; Damper 3/4 towards fast; Foes Mutz Large; Minion FBF + Ground Control rear. Trails very dry and firm. I'm 95kg in my birthday suit. 6' 2"" (sorry for the metric/imperial mix'n'match)
    I'm amazed by how plush this fork felt on the first ride. No sign of any stiction. Was used to a 120mm Bluto but had that set very firm to prevent bottoming out despite using three tokens. Having done the bar twisting with wheel between knees test, I was quite concerned by how much rotational flex there was, but no sign of that whatsoever on the trail.
    I was expecting the bike to feel really slack (I thought I didn't like slack geometry), but it just feels right. I'm also liking the effect of the extra AC length, with the front a bit higher it just feels spot on for me. Haven't measured the BB height, but I thought I noticed the difference (improvement). The front end is now much more reassuring compared to the Bluto. I felt the Wren was much more solid than the Bluto under braking. I can't say that I ever noticed the Bluto flexing under cornering loads - either I'm insensitive to that or just too slow!
    I got two PRs on steep technical sections without really trying (although the trails were super dry and quick). I didn't tackle any really steep climbs, so the extra height at the front may become an issue when I get more miles in. I didn't use all the travel, so might try dropping the pressure a bit next time, although the fork was responding so nicely, I may just leave it alone for now. I haven't quite got my head around the twin filling procedure yet and feel like I lucked out for my first ride.
    The only negative I can see is the faff to get the brake cable routing set properly. It took me quite a while but for my setup, the trick was to put an extra twist in the hose to direct the cable away from the wheel when the fork compresses.
    So, first impression is all good, I'm hoping that continues.
    Oh yes - the mention earlier in this thread about loose steerers. I have experienced that on another make of fork and although I didn't crash, it is my worst nightmare. So despite the assurance on this thread that these were isolated instances and the manufacturing process has since changed, I found myself checking that the steerer was still straight at every opportunity. I'm sure I will forget about that soon or at least not think about it any more often that I think about front tyres rolling off rims etc. Yes I am a complete wuss.

  8. #208
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    The slack is not terrible at 150mm travel, though I dropped it to 130mm and I feel like that rides a little better, lower stack, better standover, STA is closer to normal. The 10mm clip is coming in the next month, which will allow a 140mm travel setting.

    The thing about some folks not noticing the Bluto being sloppy, is you really need to be pushing any fork to notice it's weaknesses. Most folks are riding a Bluto on a hardtail fatbike, so it's just not gonna flex much because they're riding tame terrain.

    I just got back from BC, I used all of my suspension, over and over, about ever fifteen to twenty feet down the trail! If I'd had a Bluto I would have skipped the advanced trails, but with the Wren I hung with the big boys/girl.

    The Wren is a solid fork, no real weaknesses, I'm not even thinking about the loose steerer. Front end wiggle is there, but you can only notice it when the bike is in a stand, on the trail it is a non issue; typical inverted fork.

    For a brake line guide, try a cable guide from an external dropper, I run mine on the front of the leg, above the stanchion guard ~ 150mm up.

    Quote Originally Posted by brownmruk View Post
    First ride report on Wren 150/150.
    Wren at 60psi, full 150mm travel; Damper 3/4 towards fast; Foes Mutz Large; Minion FBF + Ground Control rear. Trails very dry and firm. I'm 95kg in my birthday suit. 6' 2"" (sorry for the metric/imperial mix'n'match)
    I'm amazed by how plush this fork felt on the first ride. No sign of any stiction. Was used to a 120mm Bluto but had that set very firm to prevent bottoming out despite using three tokens. Having done the bar twisting with wheel between knees test, I was quite concerned by how much rotational flex there was, but no sign of that whatsoever on the trail.
    I was expecting the bike to feel really slack (I thought I didn't like slack geometry), but it just feels right. I'm also liking the effect of the extra AC length, with the front a bit higher it just feels spot on for me. Haven't measured the BB height, but I thought I noticed the difference (improvement). The front end is now much more reassuring compared to the Bluto. I felt the Wren was much more solid than the Bluto under braking. I can't say that I ever noticed the Bluto flexing under cornering loads - either I'm insensitive to that or just too slow!
    I got two PRs on steep technical sections without really trying (although the trails were super dry and quick). I didn't tackle any really steep climbs, so the extra height at the front may become an issue when I get more miles in. I didn't use all the travel, so might try dropping the pressure a bit next time, although the fork was responding so nicely, I may just leave it alone for now. I haven't quite got my head around the twin filling procedure yet and feel like I lucked out for my first ride.
    The only negative I can see is the faff to get the brake cable routing set properly. It took me quite a while but for my setup, the trick was to put an extra twist in the hose to direct the cable away from the wheel when the fork compresses.
    So, first impression is all good, I'm hoping that continues.
    Oh yes - the mention earlier in this thread about loose steerers. I have experienced that on another make of fork and although I didn't crash, it is my worst nightmare. So despite the assurance on this thread that these were isolated instances and the manufacturing process has since changed, I found myself checking that the steerer was still straight at every opportunity. I'm sure I will forget about that soon or at least not think about it any more often that I think about front tyres rolling off rims etc. Yes I am a complete wuss.

  9. #209
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    Thanks for the tip on the cable guide I have been struggling with the idea of how to route brake lines on this fork. I found several options on ebay that should solve the issue.

  10. #210
    pit
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    Heheheeeee, many thanks Rumblefish, Romnruk and Nurse Ben for you thoughts/first impressions about this fork, it helps me a lot....

    ....i think i'll change my fork in the next few monthes for a Wren in 150 mm. I've seen there's a new distributor for Europe (Crank Nuts UK). I hope it will change the feeling of the Mutz


    Cheers



    Steve from France

  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by pit View Post
    Heheheeeee, many thanks Rumblefish, Romnruk and Nurse Ben for you thoughts/first impressions about this fork, it helps me a lot....

    ....i think i'll change my fork in the next few monthes for a Wren in 150 mm. I've seen there's a new distributor for Europe (Crank Nuts UK). I hope it will change the feeling of the Mutz


    Cheers



    Steve from France
    The Bluto holds the Mutz back> Running a Bluto is not unlike running a 120mm travel Reba on a AM bike; you just can't run a noodley short travel fork on a bike that has big bones, big wheels, and 140mm of swingarm travel.

    For perspective, the trails I rode this past weekend in BC:

    Sumas Mountain (Knob Gobbler, etc) - Sumas Mountain Bike Trails | Trailforks

    Rode everything at Tamihi - Tamihi (Chilliwack River) Mountain Bike Trails | Trailforks

    The Wren hangs with the big boys, everyone else was running a Pike or similar, with a minimum 140mm of travel. I was jumping, running big lines, going fast, and I never felt like I needed more fork.

  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by KenPsz View Post
    Thanks for the tip on the cable guide I have been struggling with the idea of how to route brake lines on this fork. I found several options on ebay that should solve the issue.
    RockShox Reverb Hydraulic Line Frame Guide

    This is similar to the one I run on both Wren: RockShox Hydraulic Cable Tubing Line Hose Frame Guides 2 Guides Fits Reverb | eBay

    Works perfect, you just need to find the sweet spot for placement. I'm running SRAM Guides, they have an adjustable line position, I have the hyraulic line angled up the leg, the line guide is positioned on the front of the leg, in line with the stanchion protector, ~150mm up from the stanchion protector.
    Last edited by Nurse Ben; 05-17-2016 at 08:29 AM.

  13. #213
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    RockShox Reverb Hydraulic Line Frame Guide

    This is the one I run on both Wren: RockShox Hydraulic Cable Tubing Line Hose Frame Guides 2 Guides Fits Reverb | eBay

    Works perfect, you just need to find the sweet spot for placement. I'm running Guides, they have an adjustable line position, I have mine angled up the legs, the line guide is positioned on the front of the leg, in line with the stanchion protector, ~150mm up from the stanchion protector.
    Do you mind posting a pic of the placement?
    Collection of fun carbon & titanium bikes

    @tgi_cycling

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  14. #214
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    Quote Originally Posted by EBG 18T View Post
    Do you mind posting a pic of the placement?
    Yeah, I just need to go home, snap a pic, then I'll post it tomorrow.

    It also helps to have the brake line short enough so there's room for it to extend vertically.


    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20160516_211620_resized.jpgWren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20160516_211640_resized.jpg
    Last edited by Nurse Ben; 05-17-2016 at 08:08 AM.

  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Yeah, I just need to go home, snap a pic, then I'll post it tomorrow.

    It also helps to have the brake line short enough so there's room for it to extend vertically.


    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks. I just ordered some of the guides you linked to. Gotta install the Goodridge Stainless lines this weekend. These guides should work out perfect.
    Collection of fun carbon & titanium bikes

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  16. #216
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    Russ and I were talking about setup, here is some new tuning info for you-

    "Our suggestion is to start with 30 pounds top and bottom - be sure you start from empty - and set your sag. Continue to add equally top and bottom until sag is right. Then ride the bike to see where you are. If you add more air to top only, you will get a plusher feel. If you add more air to bottom only, you will get a stiffer feel. The tricky part is that you will always measure equal pressures top and bottom because our sliding piston that divides the air chamber in half equalizes the pressure BUT changes the volume of the chambers. The volume of each chamber is hard to determine and we know it will be confusing to consumers, but it works! So, more air in top gives you a larger top volume and plusher ride. More air in bottom enlarges that volume and creates a stiffer ride."

  17. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    Russ and I were talking about setup, here is some new tuning info for you-

    "Our suggestion is to start with 30 pounds top and bottom - be sure you start from empty - and set your sag. Continue to add equally top and bottom until sag is right. Then ride the bike to see where you are. If you add more air to top only, you will get a plusher feel. If you add more air to bottom only, you will get a stiffer feel. The tricky part is that you will always measure equal pressures top and bottom because our sliding piston that divides the air chamber in half equalizes the pressure BUT changes the volume of the chambers. The volume of each chamber is hard to determine and we know it will be confusing to consumers, but it works! So, more air in top gives you a larger top volume and plusher ride. More air in bottom enlarges that volume and creates a stiffer ride."
    I've had no success mucking with the lower air, so I set the top at what I need to keep from maxing travel, right now I'm at 75psi, I weigh 195#. CCI runs about 150psi.

  18. #218
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    Second ride on the Wren today. Still loving the performance but it seems to have developed a creaking/groaning noise. Intermittent, but most obvious when climbing. Haven't managed to replicate it without riding a trail. Going to examine my QR and think about where it should be greased or anti seized, but wondered if anyone else has experienced this kind of noise from their Wren? 90% sure it is the fork at this stage, but reserving the right to be wrong.

  19. #219
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    I haven't had that creak. My TA is greased with Park grease.

  20. #220
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    Quote Originally Posted by brownmruk View Post
    Second ride on the Wren today. Still loving the performance but it seems to have developed a creaking/groaning noise. Intermittent, but most obvious when climbing. Haven't managed to replicate it without riding a trail. Going to examine my QR and think about where it should be greased or anti seized, but wondered if anyone else has experienced this kind of noise from their Wren? 90% sure it is the fork at this stage, but reserving the right to be wrong.
    Does it creak when you compress the fork when standing while climbing?

    Check the bar/stem clamp, reset the headset, make sure it's not binding.

    My Mutz does some creaking, it ended up being the seat post, though I could have swore up and down that it was the suspension.

  21. #221
    pit
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    The Bluto holds the Mutz back> Running a Bluto is not unlike running a 120mm travel Reba on a AM bike; you just can't run a noodley short travel fork on a bike that has big bones, big wheels, and 140mm of swingarm travel.

    For perspective, the trails I rode this past weekend in BC:

    Sumas Mountain (Knob Gobbler, etc) - Sumas Mountain Bike Trails | Trailforks

    Rode everything at Tamihi - Tamihi (Chilliwack River) Mountain Bike Trails | Trailforks

    The Wren hangs with the big boys, everyone else was running a Pike or similar, with a minimum 140mm of travel. I was jumping, running big lines, going fast, and I never felt like I needed more fork.

  22. #222
    pit
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    @ Nurse Ben : it might be fantastic to ride these trails

  23. #223
    vmk
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  24. #224
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    Quote Originally Posted by pit View Post
    @ Nurse Ben : it might be fantastic to ride these trails
    Fraser Valley riding was awesome, but I think it'll pale with where we're heading next week: The Sunshine Coast

    https://freehubmag.com/articles/sunshine-coast-guide

    BC riding is crazy, it's no wonder that someone like Steve Smith could dominate World Cup, the trails are scary steep, continuous, nasty stuff at every turn, truly a "controlled fall".

    I never wear pads, but I got some now...even thinking about a full face!

    So in answer to folks questions about the Wren being "tough enough". I'm no downhiller, but I ride hard, and I'm not light (#200/90kg), and the Wren goes where I point it and it doesn't flex at all when diving into the gnarliest terrain.

    Between the stiff Foes frame, strong wheels, a burly fork, and plus sized tires, I feel like I can pretty much ride anything I have the balls to tackle. It's not a DH bike, but the Mutz at full travel is certainly an Enduro bike, one with heft

  25. #225
    pit
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post

    So in answer to folks questions about the Wren being "tough enough". I'm no downhiller, but I ride hard, and I'm not light (#200/90kg), and the Wren goes where I point it and it doesn't flex at all when diving into the gnarliest terrain.

    Between the stiff Foes frame, strong wheels, a burly fork, and plus sized tires, I feel like I can pretty much ride anything I have the balls to tackle. It's not a DH bike, but the Mutz at full travel is certainly an Enduro bike, one with heft
    Exactly what i wanted to know..

    ...my bluto looses air during 3 or 4 hours riding out on my Mutz ......there's (again, like when i used the bluto for the first time and ask to Rock Shox a warranty service when the product was all new, put out of the box on the front of my bike) a noticable side to side play between stanchions and the "legs"......worst fork i've ever own , and i'm not a downhiller too......

    Thanks Nurse Ben

  26. #226
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    Any of you guys running the 110mm travel option? I'm on the fence for my Wednesday which fork in gonna try out.
    http://buynow.wrensports.com/product...b-110mm-travel


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  27. #227
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haste11 View Post
    Any of you guys running the 110mm travel option? I'm on the fence for my Wednesday which fork in gonna try out.
    Wren Suspension Forks | Wren Sports


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I would suggest to buy the 150mm travel Version and then reduce it to 110mm. You will have the option to use the fork for other bikes, that needs longer travel also.

  28. #228
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    I would suggest to buy the 150mm travel Version and then reduce it to 110mm. You will have the option to use the fork for other bikes, that needs longer travel also.
    I would technically agree, but the description only shows that it can be reduced to 120. On the other hand, the 110 version can be reduced down to 80. Can the 150 version be reduced down to something more than 120?

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

  29. #229
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    Quote Originally Posted by Negotiator50 View Post
    I would technically agree, but the description only shows that it can be reduced to 120. On the other hand, the 110 version can be reduced down to 80. Can the 150 version be reduced down to something more than 120?

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
    It should not be a problem to go 10mm more. Technically you just need one more clip of 10mm. The 80 should also be possible to reduce to 80mm.

  30. #230
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    Getting ready for the summer:

  31. #231
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    120mm is the shortest travel possible on the 150mm fork according to the guys at Wren.

  32. #232
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    [QUOTE=vmk;12647176]Getting ready for the summer:
    [IMG]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/

    I have to ask about that fender, can you tell me what it is and where you got it?

  33. #233
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    It's carbon fiber, got it from my shed after some tinkering. I printed the fixing parts from PLA.

  34. #234
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haste11 View Post
    Any of you guys running the 110mm travel option? I'm on the fence for my Wednesday which fork in gonna try out.
    Wren Suspension Forks | Wren Sports
    What are you putting it on? I'm running the 110 (@110) on my Fatboy. There were a few times climbing that I thought it may need to come down 10 but if I run it plush it's phenomenal for roots, rock gardens and descending while enabling me to load it and keep it down when climbing in the saddle.

    Rumble - The longer travel version can't be reduced below 120.


    Hey did you guys know that we also have these in 100 and 110 hub widths? Need a fork for your 29er or plus bike?

  35. #235
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    What are you putting it on? I'm running the 110 (@110) on my Fatboy. There were a few times climbing that I thought it may need to come down 10 but if I run it plush it's phenomenal for roots, rock gardens and descending while enabling me to load it and keep it down when climbing in the saddle.

    Rumble - The longer travel version can't be reduced below 120.


    Hey did you guys know that we also have these in 100 and 110 hub widths? Need a fork for your 29er or plus bike?
    Surly Wednesday

  36. #236
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    I don't think I would want a fork with more than 100mm of travel on that bike. The stock A to C is 468 and at 100mm it would be 510 (minus sag) so unless you are looking to slack out the front end and gain some bb clearance I wouldn't go longer.

  37. #237
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    For Sale: Wren 150mm hub spacing x 110mm Travel.

    Excellent condition, ridden three times, no damage, looks new, travel/A-C reduceable to 100-80mm.

    Great fork for hard tail fat bike or short travel full suspension fat bike (Bucksaw).

    Steerer cut to 8.5", star nut installed, cc race if you want it.

    I bought this fork for my fat tandem, but we decided to sell the tandem, so the fork is for sale.

    $899 retail, I'll let it go for $700 plus shipping.

    Send a PM for details.

  38. #238
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    So a question for you guys. I am thinking about sending Wren an e-mail about moving the disc break mount to the right side of the fork or at least giving two mounting options. It really is silly for housing routing to have the front disk on the left when the lever is on that side also and front hubs and spin either direction, so why not move the mount to the other side to make housing routing better.

  39. #239
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    Quote Originally Posted by KenPsz View Post
    So a question for you guys. I am thinking about sending Wren an e-mail about moving the disc break mount to the right side of the fork or at least giving two mounting options. It really is silly for housing routing to have the front disk on the left when the lever is on that side also and front hubs and spin either direction, so why not move the mount to the other side to make housing routing better.
    Yeah, because they could whip that up, nice, quick and at no extra cost to the customer. You're seriously approaching "Princess" territory with this request. If it bothers you so much, try swapping brake lever positions.

    I mean - seems like everyone else has solved the issue enough to go ride their bikes.
    Howell, Michigan

  40. #240
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    Quote Originally Posted by KenPsz View Post
    So a question for you guys. I am thinking about sending Wren an e-mail about moving the disc break mount to the right side of the fork or at least giving two mounting options. It really is silly for housing routing to have the front disk on the left when the lever is on that side also and front hubs and spin either direction, so why not move the mount to the other side to make housing routing better.
    Because they would have to design a dropout with a backward brake mount in order to get the caliper to align with the rotor. At which point your cable routing would be all f-ed up at the caliper. Or they would have to run the caliper backward on the front of the fork leg, which I'm guessing would increase the stress on the caliper mounts and dropouts, at least.

  41. #241
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    Quote Originally Posted by scot_douglas View Post
    Yeah, because they could whip that up, nice, quick and at no extra cost to the customer. You're seriously approaching "Princess" territory with this request. If it bothers you so much, try swapping brake lever positions.

    I mean - seems like everyone else has solved the issue enough to go ride their bikes.
    Why kind of stupid over reaction response is this? Without people suggesting ideas not in the status quo we would not have the types of bikes designs we have today.

    Sean Salach thanks for the rational response as to why it is not a workable idea.

  42. #242
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    Quote Originally Posted by KenPsz View Post
    Why kind of stupid over reaction response is this? Without people suggesting ideas not in the status quo we would not have the types of bikes designs we have today.
    It's a reaction to one of the slowest, most timid bike builds I have ever known. Princess.
    Howell, Michigan

  43. #243
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    Quote Originally Posted by scot_douglas View Post
    It's a reaction to one of the slowest, most timid bike builds I have ever known. Princess.
    Look at the internet tough guy, lol!!!

    Just when you don't think the forums could get any worse.

    I assume you are referencing the FS bike this fork is going on, tell you what PayPal me the cash I need to finish the build and it will get done. Otherwise just go away and let the adults talk.

  44. #244
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    Quote Originally Posted by Princess
    Look at the internet tough guy, lol!!!

    Just when you don't think the forums could get any worse.

    I assume you are referencing the FS bike this fork is going on, tell you what PayPal me the cash I need to finish the build and it will get done. Otherwise just go away and let the adults talk.
    Heh. Stop being such a pansy.


    I'm here for the long haul, sweetie, as I'm interested in this fork. You think being critical of your self-centered ignorance is being a tough guy, you need to re-zero and span your attitude.
    Howell, Michigan

  45. #245
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    Quote Originally Posted by scot_douglas View Post
    Heh. Stop being such a pansy.


    I'm here for the long haul, sweetie, as I'm interested in this fork. You think being critical of your self-centered ignorance is being a tough guy, you need to re-zero and span your attitude.
    I posted an idea and have been explained (by an adult) why it is not a viable idea.
    But are just acting like a child and distracting the a thread that has valuable information in it.

    So sorry folks for this distraction in the thread.

  46. #246
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    Take it off line, seriously, this is supposed to be a tech thread for a fork.

    So, any takers on my fork?

  47. #247
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    A quick tuning tip for the older 100mm single air model. Sorry if I spoil the 150mm tech talk with some old school stuff.

    1. Add something solid in the air cavity. I used wood, a lot of it after some experimenting. Make sure that the piston doesn't hit waht ever you dump there.

    2. Increase the negative spring tension. I printed a PLA-shim for that (will do that to the air chamber too when I have some time). And again, if you put too much, the travel will decrease and you may damage the fork and die. The max. seems to be around 30mm, I've that much in there. A heavier spring should work too, but I didn't have one in my pile of "this is something that I might use for something someday". I was tempted to dump the whole air spring assembly and put in a Lefty spring to see what happens, but that would most likely ruin the inner surface and the air piston would not work after that...

    This made my single air fork work the way I want it. Super plush suspension, that doesn't bottom out in big hits or steep downhills.

    Try at your own risk...

  48. #248
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    Is this fork still for sale?

  49. #249
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtawausau View Post
    Is this fork still for sale?
    My fork?

    Yes, it's sitting on my work bench dreaming of dirt

  50. #250
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    So some further information on my occasional noise from my Wren fork. Took the air side apart today to have a look and noticed some very light scoring to the stanchion. Couldn't see it on the bike but visible when cleaned and held up to the light. I think this was caused by the seal inside the collar - see picture. You can clearly see some bare metal where the seal has either worn away or just not been present from the start. I'm assuming this is a manufacturing defect as the fork has only seen 15 hours use.
    Will contact the UK distributor on Monday and see what they have to say. Disappointing because I'm loving the way this fork works.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-collar2.jpg  


  51. #251
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    Quote Originally Posted by brownmruk View Post
    So some further information on my occasional noise from my Wren fork. Took the air side apart today to have a look and noticed some very light scoring to the stanchion. Couldn't see it on the bike but visible when cleaned and held up to the light. I think this was caused by the seal inside the collar - see picture. You can clearly see some bare metal where the seal has either worn away or just not been present from the start. I'm assuming this is a manufacturing defect as the fork has only seen 15 hours use.
    Will contact the UK distributor on Monday and see what they have to say. Disappointing because I'm loving the way this fork works.
    Please let us know how you get on today, was about to order myself a pair from Cranknuts, but will wait to see what they say on this.

  52. #252
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    Quote Originally Posted by tim.johnston View Post
    Please let us know how you get on today, was about to order myself a pair from Cranknuts, but will wait to see what they say on this.
    Not a lot to report at this stage. I emailed yesterday and got two replies back on the Sunday evening which is encouragingly prompt - one from Cranknuts and one from Overspoke bike shop which is the warranty center. Both emails with an apologetic tone which is rare in my experience of warranty type issues with other manufacturers. Overspoke have said they have not seen this issue before and are keen to inspect the fork in order to decide how to progress. I'm off to package it up now. Will let you know what transpires later.
    It's a bit annoying, but I wouldn't let my experience put you off buying a Wren fork. There must be enough of them out there now, that this would have been picked up on if it was not an isolated incident. I'm guessing it was a duff seal from the start - just unlucky. The rest of the internals looked solid.

  53. #253
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    Quote Originally Posted by brownmruk View Post
    It's a bit annoying, but I wouldn't let my experience put you off buying a Wren fork. There must be enough of them out there now, that this would have been picked up on if it was not an isolated incident. I'm guessing it was a duff seal from the start - just unlucky. The rest of the internals looked solid.
    True, will give them a ring before hand anyway, thanks for the reassurance.

  54. #254
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    I got my first real ride on this fork and it is awesome!!! Thanks for starting this thread so that I found out about this fork.

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    Hi B! Russ from Wren. Saw your post and wanted to reassure you that the seal is not defective. What you see is a molding mark that occurs when the seal is popped from the mold. It will be found on all of our seals and it is in an area that does not contact the stanchion. The most important part of the seal is the flexible edge of the seal where it contacts the stanchion. This is where damage or wear can occur. I'm glad you are enjoying the fork. You are dealing with a great group in Cranknuts. Thank you for riding Wren!
    Quote Originally Posted by brownmruk View Post
    Not a lot to report at this stage. I emailed yesterday and got two replies back on the Sunday evening which is encouragingly prompt - one from Cranknuts and one from Overspoke bike shop which is the warranty center. Both emails with an apologetic tone which is rare in my experience of warranty type issues with other manufacturers. Overspoke have said they have not seen this issue before and are keen to inspect the fork in order to decide how to progress. I'm off to package it up now. Will let you know what transpires later.
    It's a bit annoying, but I wouldn't let my experience put you off buying a Wren fork. There must be enough of them out there now, that this would have been picked up on if it was not an isolated incident. I'm guessing it was a duff seal from the start - just unlucky. The rest of the internals looked solid.

  56. #256
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    Anyone heard any recent news of the new 10mm clip?

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    Quote Originally Posted by brownmruk View Post
    Anyone heard any recent news of the new 10mm clip?
    Russ from Wren again. I just received a few samples of the 10mm clip and can send one to you, just need mailing address. These new clips will now be packed in with each fork so you will get 1 - 10mm and 1 - 20mm both good for adjusting travel only, or travel and AC together. Also, see response above regarding your bushing question. Thanks!

  58. #258
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    Thanks for that Russ and for previous reply on the seal. Fork back on the bike and performing well, but still making a disconcerting noise. Going to tape an old phone to each stanchion in turn to record sound to try and find out where it is coming from. Doesn't make the noise from cold for some reason. Needs 45 minutes of riding to get the squeak/groan going. Last time I was out I waited until the noise appeared and removed the front wheel so I could move each stanchion independently, but couldn't replicate the noise. Other than that, loving the performance.

  59. #259
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    Got a 110mm travel/150mm hub Wren ordered for my Bucksaw. Hopefully, I'll be able to get it in hand and installed in time for a trip to N. GA.

  60. #260
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    Quote Originally Posted by brownmruk View Post
    Thanks for that Russ and for previous reply on the seal. Fork back on the bike and performing well, but still making a disconcerting noise. Going to tape an old phone to each stanchion in turn to record sound to try and find out where it is coming from. Doesn't make the noise from cold for some reason. Needs 45 minutes of riding to get the squeak/groan going. Last time I was out I waited until the noise appeared and removed the front wheel so I could move each stanchion independently, but couldn't replicate the noise. Other than that, loving the performance.
    If the performance is alright there is nothing to worry about the sound. What changes its the grease that gets warm after a while and changes the sound. The fork is assembled with a lot of it so you need to use the fork to get it to settle. I had the same sign of wear, actually it was a little sign of a stripe the surface of the inner fork leg. There has not fit worse so just observe to find out if it is getting worse. If you really want to get rid of the noise you can open the fork and clean out the grease. Just make sure to use Slick Honey and enough to get low friction. You will always get noise when using the rebound.

  61. #261
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    This thread is making it *very* hard to resist a Wren.

    Since I'm in the EU, I'm wondering how old the stock is at Cranknuts, and if I buy one now, it'll have all the recent improvements. I'm a big Clyde and I need all the help I can get with the fork.
    Yamaguchi Cross • YT Jeffsy • Salsa Mukluk & Vaya • Canyon Commuter

  62. #262
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    Quote Originally Posted by schnee View Post
    This thread is making it *very* hard to resist a Wren.

    Since I'm in the EU, I'm wondering how old the stock is at Cranknuts, and if I buy one now, it'll have all the recent improvements. I'm a big Clyde and I need all the help I can get with the fork.
    Purchased mine from them a few weeks ago. All good so far and it was the latest one with guards and spacers. They mentioned getting more in stock as well.

  63. #263
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    As they say in Sweden, tack sε mycket!
    Yamaguchi Cross • YT Jeffsy • Salsa Mukluk & Vaya • Canyon Commuter

  64. #264
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    Just give in to the pressure.....

    I have had mine 5 months. Loving it. Did 1 miles of roots, rocks, and knarl this morning and the fork did awesome. The Mutz with Wren has rekindled my love of the sport.

  65. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by RussJ View Post
    Russ from Wren again. I just received a few samples of the 10mm clip and can send one to you, just need mailing address. These new clips will now be packed in with each fork so you will get 1 - 10mm and 1 - 20mm both good for adjusting travel only, or travel and AC together. Also, see response above regarding your bushing question. Thanks!
    Thanks Russ, just got it installed, 140mm of sweet inverted suppleness, off for a ride now.

    So easy to make changes on these forks, nothing like the bother of changing air shafts on a SRAM fork.

    Maintenance is so much easier as well, sealed aystem, drop a leg, no mess.

    Edit: Got in a nice hour of mixed riding with the Wren set at 140mm travel and the rear of my Mutz bumped to 140mm. The additional height slacked me out to 66deg, felt great.

    I dropped the pressure from 75psi to 65psi, then added the same on the bottom. It was a tad firm so I took it down to 60psi which worked well.

    I run anywhere ftom 1-2 turns of rebound depending on terrain.

    At this point I'm not sure why anyone would ride a Bluto, perhaps on a grocery getter or BD bike
    Last edited by Nurse Ben; 07-11-2016 at 07:32 PM.

  66. #266
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    Quote Originally Posted by brownmruk View Post
    Anyone heard any recent news of the new 10mm clip?
    Running one now, works great!

  67. #267
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    Would love to hear your thoughts. I have a Bucksaw Carbon, and I'm considering this fork.

  68. #268
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haste11 View Post
    Any of you guys running the 110mm travel option? I'm on the fence for my Wednesday which fork in gonna try out.
    Wren Suspension Forks | Wren Sports


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    Did you go with a Wren for your Wednesday? I would like to see pics if you did. Seems like the best option.
    Ridley CX, Stumpjumper Carbon HT, Surly Wednesday

  69. #269
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackPenquinn View Post
    Would love to hear your thoughts. I have a Bucksaw Carbon, and I'm considering this fork.
    Get the Wren150mm x 150mm, reduce it until it feels good, 120, 130, or 140.

    It's a pound more than the Bluto, that's the penalty, otherwise it's the best fat bike fork available.

    Not that it matters, but I get a fair number of comments on the Wren, like "cool looking fork"

    Other than the burliness of the Wren, I really like how easy it is to adjust and maintain.

  70. #270
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Get the Wren150mm x 150mm, reduce it until it feels good, 120, 130, or 140.

    It's a pound more than the Bluto, that's the penalty, otherwise it's the best fat bike fork available.

    Not that it matters, but I get a fair number of comments on the Wren, like "cool looking fork"

    Other than the burliness of the Wren, I really like how easy it is to adjust and maintain.
    Probably a poor suggestion for the Bucksaw. Salsa is pretty particular about the travel/a-c on the bike. They really don't want you to deviate from the dimensions of the 100mm Bluto. That is why I stayed with the 110mm version.

  71. #271
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    Got my 110mm Wren installed today. So much stiffer than the Bluto. And the 110 so far feels like a solid match for the Bucksaw. Total bike weight is now over 33lbs, but does not ride much different.




  72. #272
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    Nice!
    Looks good on the Bucksaw!
    I have never ridden a Bluto but looked at them on other bikes and the Wren defiantly looks way stiffer and a lot beefier compared to the Bluto.
    Which effects the weight a bit (I believe???) but I am sure glad I went with the Wren.
    For me the Bluto looked small for a Fat bike fork but that is my opinion.
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  73. #273
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    Got my Wren 110mm fork earlier today.

    It will be replacing the stock 100mm Bluto that came with my new bike. I pouldn't get to like the Bluto, even sent it off to TFT ( in the UK), to work their magic on it.

    Came back from TFT with resized bushing and low friction seals, was better, but not that great an improvement.

    This thread had caught my attention, and liked the look of the fork, so I have just fitted it this afternoon.

    Starting off with 40 psi in both top and bottom chambers and the rebound setting close to its fastest setting.

    Quick ride on the Tarmac and jumping off kerbs show it is better than the Bluto already.

    Will have a proper off road ride tomorrow, taking the shock pump with me to fine tune any pressures.

    Unfortunately, I feel there may be some haters, it is fitted to a Felt Lebowsk e fat bike ( ebike), but the increased stiffness on such a weighty beast is needed.

    I'll post back with a ride report and some images.

  74. #274
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chad_M View Post
    Did you go with a Wren for your Wednesday? I would like to see pics if you did. Seems like the best option.
    I'm still riding it rigid, pretty torn tbh. I really like a rigid bike but some of the trails around me can beat ya up with no suspension. Through fox I get a sweet EP deal so I might go with the 27.5+ 34 boosted. Not sure if wren does EPs.

    Biggest draw back with the fox is can't readily swap forks from suspension to rigid if I re-lace my wheel sets from 150 to 110.


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  75. #275
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    Had a few rides on my new Wren fork.

    Initially I had to faff about with the air pressure settings, but having read all of this thread I have settled on 60/60 psi , I weigh 185 lbs with riding kit.

    Still fine tuning the rebound setting, but I'm not too far off it now.

    Much better than the Bluto, more controlled and better tracking.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-gr011221.jpg  

    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-gr011223.jpg  


  76. #276
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    Quote Originally Posted by Denis9999 View Post
    Had a few rides on my new Wren fork.

    Initially I had to faff about with the air pressure settings, but having read all of this thread I have settled on 60/60 psi , I weigh 185 lbs with riding kit.

    Still fine tuning the rebound setting, but I'm not too far off it now.

    Much better than the Bluto, more controlled and better tracking.
    Who makes the cable guide on your fork, or did it come with your Wren?


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    Question for Wren owners-
    Have Wren owners experienced creaking steerer/stanchion tube?
    My experience with Bluto forks is that after while they develop the "creaking" in steerer tube/stanchion that just progressively gets worse l, then I send them away for warranty & is fixed for a while.... Repeat....
    Thanks in advance.

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    I have had no creaking from the fork itself, my only fork noise was the brake caliper being not properly torqued. And a temporary noise from the QR axle.

  80. #280
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCHKeys View Post
    I have had no creaking from the fork itself, my only fork noise was the brake caliper being not properly torqued. And a temporary noise from the QR axle.
    Yeah, I started getting the thru axle squeak on my wren. Light bit of grease on the hemisperical contact points quieted it down right away. No different than a creaky seatpost.

  81. #281
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    dirt-nerd - How old is your fork? The newest generation of the fork shouldn't have that happen.

    JCH and Harold - Yup a little bit of lubrication goes a long way

  82. #282
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    My Bluto was 7 months old & kept getting worse... So I was thinking of trying the Wren & it sounds promising. Thanks again

  83. #283
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    On the newest version of the fork the base of the steerer tube where it's pressed into the crown is scored and we use a 3M adhesive when it's pressed to (hopefully) eliminate the twisting that can occur with the additional rotational torque from fat tires/rims.

  84. #284
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    I have the new -17 FATLAB 120mm fat fork.. It΄s the same as 120 Wren dual air.

    Have You notice any flat spot in top position of the fork. It appear when driving over small roots, rocks etc. You can feel "clonk" in the fork in top position right before fork begins to compress. It΄s like fork has 3 stage, flat spot (feels like small clonking/free movement) then sag and then compression... How to fix this... ? And this fork is only 1 week old, driven 100 miles.

    Also free move appears to feel more after riding an hour or more...

  85. #285
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    Quote Originally Posted by GiantTurd View Post
    Had the same thing when I first set mine up, air pressure was setup wrong. When checking air you have to make sure you put the same amount of strokes top and bottom and not so much looking at the psi, I am at 55 strokes top and bottom and is awesome. Hope that makes sense.
    From what I understand, putting an equal number of pumps top and bottom is a great starting point, then you can experiment with more pumps in the lower chamber (more firm and progressive) or more pumps in the upper chamber (less firm, more plush). I seem to be finding that putting more pumps in the lower chamber is helping me avoid the hard bottom-outs I was experiencing at first when going over "larger" drops.

    I think Wren recommends putting equal numbers of pumps in initially to find what it takes to get the desired sag, then adjusting from there. I'm still experimenting but have been trying to address some wrist pain (probably arthritis from all of the riding I've done over the years) by creating a more plush ride, so I'm currently using about 33 pumps lower/40 pumps upper at 170 lbs bodyweight. This may change as I get more rides on the fork.

  86. #286
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    Hi J!
    I was going to suggest you start over with your air settings, but GT took care of that for me! Thanks, Turd! (just wanted to say that.) Our system is a little tricky, but once you have the hang of it, it works great. Counting pump strokes is the way to go. We have a sheet on our website SERVICE page that explains setup. Start with zero air top and bottom and add EQUAL pump strokes top and bottom to set your sag. Always equal top and bottom to start. This keeps the 2 chamber volumes equal. Then once you have your sag, add more air to top only for a plusher ride, or more air to bottom only for a stiffer ride. You are changing the relative volumes of the two chambers to change the ride characteristics. The pressure, if measured, will be virtually equal top and bottom because of the sliding piston that divides the chambers. Once you have your ride setting, if you find you need more resistance to bottom out from that ride setting, add equally to top and bottom again.
    All forks will take a little time to break in. But after 100 miles you should be beyond break in. If the fork is always sticky when you start riding, I would check the lubrication. Not sure what Fatlab uses. We specify Slick Honey for most all the lube in the fork (the oil damper is sealed) but we use Molykote 55 on all piston O-rings in the air spring. This is an expensive grease but makes a big difference.
    Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any more questions. Thanks to FitmanNJ for chiming in too!
    Russ / Wren

  87. #287
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    Where can the oil damper be serviced?

  88. #288
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    Just bought a kona wozo, and after having a lefty on my ict, I'm hesitant to go back to the bluto.

    Is the latest generation of these forks pretty much ready to go? Or are things still being worked out?

    When the fork needs service, is it as easy to do as the bluto or will I need to send it to wren?

  89. #289
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    With a basic knowledge of how to wrench a bike you can follow their directions and do most of the work. Bushing, keys, and even a damper replacement are pretty easy. I have mine torn down waiting for some parts for a full rebuild after 6 months of using it in enduro races and at bike parks.

  90. #290
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    Apart from flex, how does this compare to a bluto with rct3 damper?

    Sorry if that's been answered.

  91. #291
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    Videos are pretty explanatory and if you are at all handy it is no problem to work on the Wren.
    It is a pretty beefy fork in my opinion and so far I have not noticed a lot of flex and I have taken it on some pretty rough trails. I can't compare it to a Bluto since I never owned one but having seen a Bluto I am sure glad I never bought one!
    I am not sure it would have worked for me!
    Not sure if that helps.......
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  92. #292
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    I think that you can't do anything to the damper unit? It's sealed and probably similar as rear suspension units, needs nitrogen etc. to be serviced? I think that it's the biggest downside of this fork for me. Please prove me wrong...

  93. #293
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dawgprimo View Post
    Videos are pretty explanatory and if you are at all handy it is no problem to work on the Wren.
    It is a pretty beefy fork in my opinion and so far I have not noticed a lot of flex and I have taken it on some pretty rough trails. I can't compare it to a Bluto since I never owned one but having seen a Bluto I am sure glad I never bought one!
    I am not sure it would have worked for me!
    Not sure if that helps.......
    Oh it helps. I'm trying to fight the urge to just get one.

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    Whatever I bought one to put in place of the 100mm bluto on my Wozo. Hope it's as awesome as everyone says...

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    I am glad I stayed subscribed to this thread since I just resetup my fork, using the pump counts instead of pressure and wow what a difference. This fork has been awesome but I have been riding it with way too much pressure. Using the test curb by my house the difference is serious. Under the pressure setup the fork absorbed the curb but you could still feel it, where the pump counts it is like a 3in curb is just not there.

    I am surprised that to set my sag for 130mm of travel is set with only 32 pumps on my shock pump and I am 230lbs. So looks like I am riding again tomorrow to see the difference.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GiantTurd View Post
    Yep. since i got mine right I can't feel most rocks or roots and it make me go probably too fast for my own good.
    Quote Originally Posted by KenPsz View Post
    I am glad I stayed subscribed to this thread since I just resetup my fork, using the pump counts instead of pressure and wow what a difference. This fork has been awesome but I have been riding it with way too much pressure. Using the test curb by my house the difference is serious. Under the pressure setup the fork absorbed the curb but you could still feel it, where the pump counts it is like a 3in curb is just not there.

    I am surprised that to set my sag for 130mm of travel is set with only 32 pumps on my shock pump and I am 230lbs. So looks like I am riding again tomorrow to see the difference.
    GiantT: Curious...how much do you weigh (leading to 55 strokes top and bottom)?
    GiantT and KenP: Have you found a specific rebound setting that you prefer?

    Thanks -- I feel that it helps to learn from the experience of others!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shinkers View Post
    Whatever I bought one to put in place of the 100mm bluto on my Wozo. Hope it's as awesome as everyone says...
    The Wren will blow your mind once you get it set up. It is light years ahead of the Bluto. I rode a Bluto for 2 yrs and it was okay for being the only fork that we had to choose from back then. But since I have made the switch to the Wren 110, my bike feels and performs much better in the rough and is way more plush of a ride. And the lock out on the Wren, is a true lock out, no movement.
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    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-wren-hydro.jpg

    For those wondering how to clamp their front hydro hose, I bought some hose clamps that work for a Lefty. I have one mounted high just under the crown and the other I have mounted on the turn nut between the fork leg and stanchion. Hope this helps out some of you looking for a way to route the hydro line and keep it in a safe place.
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    Quote Originally Posted by FitmanNJ View Post
    GiantT: Curious...how much do you weigh (leading to 55 strokes top and bottom)?
    GiantT and KenP: Have you found a specific rebound setting that you prefer?

    Thanks -- I feel that it helps to learn from the experience of others!
    The rebound I am still dorking with, I have not found a setting I really like yet.
    A little turn does seem to have a big effect at times.

  100. #300
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    Quote Originally Posted by majack View Post
    The Wren will blow your mind once you get it set up. It is light years ahead of the Bluto. I rode a Bluto for 2 yrs and it was okay for being the only fork that we had to choose from back then. But since I have made the switch to the Wren 110, my bike feels and performs much better in the rough and is way more plush of a ride. And the lock out on the Wren, is a true lock out, no movement.
    True lockout will be very nice.

  101. #301
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    Hey, does this come with any type of cable guides at all? Asking because of all the posts I see about them. I like the idea of the Lefty guides...

    Also, is a star nut included or do I need to pick one up?

    Thanks.

  102. #302
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shinkers View Post
    Hey, does this come with any type of cable guides at all? Asking because of all the posts I see about them. I like the idea of the Lefty guides...

    Also, is a star nut included or do I need to pick one up?

    Thanks.
    I just used zip ties for mine. No guides are included. It's relevant because if you use nothing, or only one guide, your brake line is likely to get into your spokes when the fork compresses. The lefty guides are a bit cleaner than using zip ties, that's for sure.

    Star nuts are typically included with headsets, not forks. If you don't have one, you will have to obtain one. I had a couple extra sitting around at home, so had no problem with that.

    FWIW, I just installed a 203mm rotor on my Wren and I'm pleased. My brakes feel a bit more balanced than they used to, and I notice less brake pull from it than I did with a 180mm rotor on a Bluto.

  103. #303
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    Hmmm. I got a star nut with my bluto but bought it as a package deal with the bike.

    Being an inverted fork, doesn't the brake line need to be able to slide?

    Thanks for the info!

  104. #304
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shinkers View Post
    Hmmm. I got a star nut with my bluto but bought it as a package deal with the bike.

    Being an inverted fork, doesn't the brake line need to be able to slide?

    Thanks for the info!
    It needs to be able to move without catching on anything. If sliding does the job, then that's fine. The zip ties I use aren't exactly tight. No matter whether the housing slides through the guides or not, it will bow out somewhere when the fork compresses. You just don't want it catching anywhere. In majack's pic, it looks like the housing probably bows out to the left between the two guides. Mine tends to bow below the lower one, but it does slide a little. I'd rather it bow straight backward, but directing it that way isn't very easy. At least it doesn't bow into my spokes (the first time I heard it plink when it did that, I stopped and adjusted until it didn't do that anymore - the last thing I want is to rupture a hydro hose on the trail somewhere chunky that I actually need brakes).

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    Quote Originally Posted by GiantTurd View Post
    Yep. since i got mine right I can't feel most rocks or roots and it make me go probably too fast for my own good.
    Quote Originally Posted by GiantTurd View Post
    I weigh 220, but not all pumps deliver the same amount per stroke. Still messing a bit with rebound, right I have it so the fork.does.not.top all the way out when lifting the front, unless you have one, this probably does not make sense, hard to explain, hope it helps.
    Yes, I have a 110mm Wren (running 80 mm travel), and I know exactly what you mean. Obviously, I'm still experimenting with the rebound, too. I'm going to test again during my next ride, but if I recall correctly, I need to turn the rebound knob at least two-thirds of the way toward the closed position to substantially reduce the top-out sound when lifting the front wheel. I'm not sure if topping-out is a "bad thing," but a faster rebound setting seems to allow it to happen.

  106. #306
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    It needs to be able to move without catching on anything. If sliding does the job, then that's fine. The zip ties I use aren't exactly tight. No matter whether the housing slides through the guides or not, it will bow out somewhere when the fork compresses. You just don't want it catching anywhere. In majack's pic, it looks like the housing probably bows out to the left between the two guides. Mine tends to bow below the lower one, but it does slide a little. I'd rather it bow straight backward, but directing it that way isn't very easy. At least it doesn't bow into my spokes (the first time I heard it plink when it did that, I stopped and adjusted until it didn't do that anymore - the last thing I want is to rupture a hydro hose on the trail somewhere chunky that I actually need brakes).
    Harold is correct, my hydro hose bows out to the left, (away from the spokes). With my Hope brakes and the way the hydro hose is connected to the caliper, this is the only way I could get the hose to go without going into the spokes. I had the hydro line go into the spokes when I first set it up and I like many others, had to find a different option. So that is how I come up with using the Lefty guides. I to would have liked to have the hydro line move towards the back, but with my brakes that was not an option.
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    Got it. Thanks guys.

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    My Wren came with a star nut, but not guides. I use two Reverb seatpost hose guides and they work really well. That was a tip from another poster on here. The benefit of the Reverb guides is that they allow the hose to slide, so the hose doesn't bend in or out at wheel height. Instead, the slack is taken up around the bars instead.

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    Are you having a problem with the damper? If so, you may send here to Wren:
    Wren Sports
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    Vallejo, CA 94591
    Typically, our damper does not need servicing. When it eventually wears out, best to replace. Cost is basically the same because of the time to properly service and refill the damper.
    Russ / Wren

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    The Wren fork is ready to go. All of the upgrades to the bushings, QR and damper we requested have been made. These upgrades will also fit older model Wren forks with keyed stanchions. We feel designing a modular fork has made servicing simple. We have videos posted on our Service page at wrensports.com that will walk you through everything you need to know. We don't recommend servicing the damper yourself unless you have a lot of experience bleeding such systems. Our travel and AC can be adjusted using the clips we provide with every fork. Simply snap it on or off. No major disassembly and no parts to buy.
    Russ/Wren

  111. #311
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    Here's my guide for the brake cable. Printed out of PETG. It allows the hose to move freely, the hose doesn't bend during the suspension travel. Works at least with a 90mm of travel in use.
    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-1-dsc_0059.jpg

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    Hi All!
    Thought I would use Harold's post to let you know we have listened to all the requests for cable guides and have designed one for the Wren fork. In production now and should be here shortly. We will include 2 guides with every fork once they arrive. The main guide is attached using zip ties. The smaller piece can be inserted to reduce the size of the hole for smaller hoses/cables. Should make for a clean install with any braking system. Hope i figured out how to post the pic correctly!
    Russ/Wren

  113. #313
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    Quote Originally Posted by RussJ View Post
    The Wren fork is ready to go. All of the upgrades to the bushings, QR and damper we requested have been made. These upgrades will also fit older model Wren forks with keyed stanchions. We feel designing a modular fork has made servicing simple. We have videos posted on our Service page at wrensports.com that will walk you through everything you need to know. We don't recommend servicing the damper yourself unless you have a lot of experience bleeding such systems. Our travel and AC can be adjusted using the clips we provide with every fork. Simply snap it on or off. No major disassembly and no parts to buy.
    Russ/Wren
    Quote Originally Posted by RussJ View Post
    Hi All!
    Thought I would use Harold's post to let you know we have listened to all the requests for cable guides and have designed one for the Wren fork. In production now and should be here shortly. We will include 2 guides with every fork once they arrive. The main guide is attached using zip ties. The smaller piece can be inserted to reduce the size of the hole for smaller hoses/cables. Should make for a clean install with any braking system. Hope i figured out how to post the pic correctly!
    Russ/Wren
    Nice to see those cable guides. Will we be able to buy them separately for our existing forks? I'm also curious about the new QR/thru axle. I've heard about it a couple of times. What changes were made to it (please tell me I will be able to put the lever on the side opposite the brake caliper)?

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    Hi Harold!
    Yes, the guides will be available aftermarket. I am negotiating with the factory now to get a few sets no charge so we can add to that and supply existing fork owners a set for postage only. The new QR is also in production. On new production forks now and available soon as an aftermarket upgrade to existing forks. The Wren QR must ALWAYS be inserted from the brake side, lever on brake side. We redesigned the lever/cam area to be more durable and generate more clamping force.
    Russ / Wren

  115. #315
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    Quote Originally Posted by RussJ View Post
    Hi Harold!
    Yes, the guides will be available aftermarket. I am negotiating with the factory now to get a few sets no charge so we can add to that and supply existing fork owners a set for postage only. The new QR is also in production. On new production forks now and available soon as an aftermarket upgrade to existing forks. The Wren QR must ALWAYS be inserted from the brake side, lever on brake side. We redesigned the lever/cam area to be more durable and generate more clamping force.
    Russ / Wren
    It would be better if the lever could be on the other side. That way my fingers are nowhere near my rotor when trying to remove my tire (say, repairing a flat after a long downhill where the brakes got hot, or loading my bike onto a fork mounted rack after the brake got hot, or simply to keep my fingers away from the rotor to minimize contamination risk, etc). I ran regular QR levers this way for years, and Rockshox sets up their thru axles this way. I don't see any real functional reason why the lever SHOULD be so close to the brake rotor.

  116. #316
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    On the QR lever side topic: I recently had a rear hub failure which caused the bearings to bind on the axle, which (somehow?) then unwound the 12mm bolt through from the frame. It happened quite quickly on a downhill section and although the wheel stayed within the confines of the frame it came out of the dropouts and locked up causing an alarming loss of control. I thought at the time that it would be safer if it had a left hand thread to prevent this happening and wondered why that wasn't standard practice. I have never experienced a front hub failure and don't want to, but if I did, I'd prefer my QR to insert from the drive side or have a left had thread if it has to insert from the non-drive side. I guess a QR is possibly less likely to unwind in these circumstances than a bolt through. I am a bit of a worrier.

  117. #317
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    I have had front QR's unwind on me, which is why I started flipping my levers. Then it occurred to me that it was just better that way.

  118. #318
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    Just make a bolt on thru axle version to fit the fork. Simple.

  119. #319
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    Quote Originally Posted by RussJ View Post
    Hi Harold!
    Yes, the guides will be available aftermarket. I am negotiating with the factory now to get a few sets no charge so we can add to that and supply existing fork owners a set for postage only. The new QR is also in production. On new production forks now and available soon as an aftermarket upgrade to existing forks. The Wren QR must ALWAYS be inserted from the brake side, lever on brake side. We redesigned the lever/cam area to be more durable and generate more clamping force.
    Russ / Wren
    Can you sell those guides and other parts by mail? I live in Sweden, bought my fork from the UK. Thanks!
    Yamaguchi Cross • YT Jeffsy • Salsa Mukluk & Vaya • Canyon Commuter

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    Hi Schnee!
    I'm guessing you bought the fork through Overspoke Home. They are our UK distributor. You may check with them regarding the new QR axle. They have a complete stock of our service and repair parts. Just not sure what might be left in inventory. The hose/cable guides are in production and we are waiting for the first shipment to arrive, so no one has those yet. If Overspoke is out, we can ship from here, but that might be more expensive than sourcing through Overspoke. We are here to help whichever way you decide to go. Thank you for riding Wren!
    Russ / Wren

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    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    It needs to be able to move without catching on anything. If sliding does the job, then that's fine. The zip ties I use aren't exactly tight. No matter whether the housing slides through the guides or not, it will bow out somewhere when the fork compresses. You just don't want it catching anywhere. In majack's pic, it looks like the housing probably bows out to the left between the two guides. Mine tends to bow below the lower one, but it does slide a little. I'd rather it bow straight backward, but directing it that way isn't very easy. At least it doesn't bow into my spokes (the first time I heard it plink when it did that, I stopped and adjusted until it didn't do that anymore - the last thing I want is to rupture a hydro hose on the trail somewhere chunky that I actually need brakes).
    There need to something that keeps the hose away from the stanchion. And it need to be able to move, otherwise it will take off the paint. If you keep the hose in the rear of the stanchion (6 o'clock) you will keep it safe from getting hit by stones and safe in crashes. If you take the hose under the crown you need to keep it away from the surface, or it will rub. Inside of the fork is not good if you use big tires (~5").

  122. #322
    vmk
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    This seems to work, no rubbing, the brake hose has a free movement and doesn't bend at the lower part of it. Have to print something to replace the zip tie on the handle bar, maybe something that allows movement there as well.
    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-1-dsc_0160-001.jpg

  123. #323
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    Spent some time yesterday during my ride doing some suspension tuning. Getting the Wren to behave a little bit better in the chattery stuff. I've got it closer to how I like it. I can probably still make it better, though.

    Ooo, cable rub will result in my death while I use plain zip ties to secure my brake line for a short time until I get some better cable guides.

  124. #324
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    Anyone run their fork without the stanchion guards?

    Found a pic where someone had the clamp bolt on the guard side and set mine up similarly but still not crazy about how they fit around the stanchion and guard...

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    Hey all. Sorry I've been a bit of a stranger in the thread but Russ seems to have been covering things pretty well

    shinkers - I wouldn't run without the guards. They really do protect the stanchions, I've had cause to appreciate them SO many times.

    The new QR is great, solved a couple of issues I had and just plain feels better when you're closing it. A little bit of grease on the contact points is a good thing... I too am anxiously awaiting a set of the cable guides but have had good luck with loose(ish) zip ties so the hose can slide. I tend to run the rebound damping a few clicks off closed, it really helps to counteract the basketball effect and allows me to plow through rough stuff at moderate to high speeds without packing up. If I'm riding techy, sort of flat terrain I'll open it up a click to help get the front end up a little bit more quickly.

    If you ride where it's dry and dusty or have had to clean your fork this stuff has been good for me https://miles-wide.com/product/wet-seal/ My bike tends to spend a lot of time on the back of my car so I have to clean the stanchions pretty often. A few drops and then cycle the fork a few times and it feels great again.

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    Mmmm, indeed. Took it out for the first time and will definitely need to keep the guards on.

    The fork felt kind of indifferent until I got the rebound dialed. After that, holy moly this thing is dangerous.

  127. #327
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    ...I tend to run the rebound damping a few clicks off closed, it really helps to counteract the basketball effect and allows me to plow through rough stuff at moderate to high speeds without packing up. If I'm riding techy, sort of flat terrain I'll open it up a click to help get the front end up a little bit more quickly.
    When you refer to rebound setting "clicks," do you mean figuratively, or does your rebound knob actually have clicks that you can count?

  128. #328
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    Real quick too, is it normal to hear the fork kind of "thunk" when the legs fully extend after bring compressed? Like when you hit a drop or jump and the wheel springs out when unweighted? I have 70 strokes in both chambers at about 75 psi. Using all my travel. I weigh 200 or so.

    Can't remember if I noticed it with my lefty and the fork worked great anyhow.

    Funny, I have my rebound set 8 'clicks' in from the fastest setting. I count a click as a small 1/8 turn or so with my fingers and I get 22 total.

  129. #329
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    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide

    Shinkers - I find that mine fork (120mm) works better with a volume difference between the upper & lower air chambers. My upper chamber has more volume than the lower chamber. I do not have any 'thunk' like you are describing
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  130. #330
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    Ideally the brake line would run through a guide mounted to the stanchion protrector, ala Cannondale Lefty.

    A guide mounted on the upper leg either leads to stanchion rub if it gets inder the protector, or it gets in the wheel, so it's challeneging to find a balance.

    To start run the shortest brake line possible...

    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    Spent some time yesterday during my ride doing some suspension tuning. Getting the Wren to behave a little bit better in the chattery stuff. I've got it closer to how I like it. I can probably still make it better, though.

    Ooo, cable rub will result in my death while I use plain zip ties to secure my brake line for a short time until I get some better cable guides.

  131. #331
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    I considered trying that after reading that's how many others run theirs.

    The thunk isn't loud, just sounds like the fork topping out. Hopefully I didn't screw it up running it the way I did.

    Edit: talked to Russ and he said my rebound damping is probably too fast. Slowed it down and it definitely helped.
    Last edited by Shinkers; 10-10-2016 at 05:26 PM.

  132. #332
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    Quote Originally Posted by FitmanNJ View Post
    When you refer to rebound setting "clicks," do you mean figuratively, or does your rebound knob actually have clicks that you can count?
    Quote Originally Posted by Shinkers View Post
    Real quick too, is it normal to hear the fork kind of "thunk" when the legs fully extend after bring compressed? Like when you hit a drop or jump and the wheel springs out when unweighted? I have 70 strokes in both chambers at about 75 psi. Using all my travel. I weigh 200 or so.

    Can't remember if I noticed it with my lefty and the fork worked great anyhow.

    Funny, I have my rebound set 8 'clicks' in from the fastest setting. I count a click as a small 1/8 turn or so with my fingers and I get 22 total.
    No it doesn't actually click, that was more figurative.

    Slow the rebound down a bit more, that should take care of the top out klunk.

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    Currently building up a carbon BS. After coming across this thread, very tempted to take the weight penalty and go with the Wren over the Bluto. Can any BS owners comment on Wren performance on a BS? (Salsa is very specific on what fork specs will work with the BS)

  134. #334
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    Quote Originally Posted by rocks_4_brains View Post
    Currently building up a carbon BS. After coming across this thread, very tempted to take the weight penalty and go with the Wren over the Bluto. Can any BS owners comment on Wren performance on a BS? (Salsa is very specific on what fork specs will work with the BS)
    Quote Originally Posted by GiantTurd View Post
    I am using the 110mm WREN on my Carbon BS, tried to weight weenie the bike out but no matter how much I spend this bike will not be light ever. Now I have swapped out the carbon hoops and added the WREN, best thing I did, now I can ride it like I want with control and speed. There is no way to go back to the Bluto after using it, the Bluto is over matched to the rest of the bike and really holds it back.
    I have an Alu Bucksaw, and agree that the Bluto fork holds the bike back. I am still tweaking the setup of my Wren, but it's already better than the Bluto in at least one critical area. Stiffness. When I rode the Bluto, I "felt" that the fork's biggest weakness was flex in straight-on hits and drops. I did burp some air out of the fork on a particularly long and rowdy downhill last year. But now that I've ridden the Wren for awhile, I can say that the biggest impact of the noodliness of the Bluto is wheel deflection from smaller stuff that you glance off of, or that you hit at an angle. So the roots and smaller rocks that I see on every single ride. My first ride with the Wren after installing it, I noticed that I was still compensating for wheel deflection that wasn't there. I kept waggling my bars from side-to-side when I didn't need to.

    I had to do a bit of a mental reset, but once I calmed down my steering, I notice how much more "true" the bike tracks with the Wren. Consequently, I am faster, particularly on the downhills. Also worth noting: with the Bluto, I was using a 180mm rotor, and I would feel the bike "pull" when I applied the brake, especially if my thru axle wasn't tight enough. This sensation was dramatically reduced when I installed a DT RWS thru axle on the Bluto, but it was still there. After installing the Wren, I got a 203mm front rotor because I wanted a little more safety margin for braking. The Wren STILL does not "pull" under even the hardest braking efforts.

  135. #335
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    I have an Alu Bucksaw, and agree that the Bluto fork holds the bike back. I am still tweaking the setup of my Wren, but it's already better than the Bluto in at least one critical area. Stiffness. When I rode the Bluto, I "felt" that the fork's biggest weakness was flex in straight-on hits and drops. I did burp some air out of the fork on a particularly long and rowdy downhill last year. But now that I've ridden the Wren for awhile, I can say that the biggest impact of the noodliness of the Bluto is wheel deflection from smaller stuff that you glance off of, or that you hit at an angle. So the roots and smaller rocks that I see on every single ride. My first ride with the Wren after installing it, I noticed that I was still compensating for wheel deflection that wasn't there. I kept waggling my bars from side-to-side when I didn't need to.

    I had to do a bit of a mental reset, but once I calmed down my steering, I notice how much more "true" the bike tracks with the Wren. Consequently, I am faster, particularly on the downhills. Also worth noting: with the Bluto, I was using a 180mm rotor, and I would feel the bike "pull" when I applied the brake, especially if my thru axle wasn't tight enough. This sensation was dramatically reduced when I installed a DT RWS thru axle on the Bluto, but it was still there. After installing the Wren, I got a 203mm front rotor because I wanted a little more safety margin for braking. The Wren STILL does not "pull" under even the hardest braking efforts.
    Quote Originally Posted by GiantTurd View Post
    I am using the 110mm WREN on my Carbon BS, tried to weight weenie the bike out but no matter how much I spend this bike will not be light ever. Now I have swapped out the carbon hoops and added the WREN, best thing I did, now I can ride it like I want with control and speed. There is no way to go back to the Bluto after using it, the Bluto is over matched to the rest of the bike and really holds it back.
    Thank you Gentlemen! Decision made - going with the Wren. Now to get it ordered and setup!
    A bit off topic, but GT, why did you swap out the carbon hoops?

  136. #336
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    Fwiw, i talked to the salsa folks this weekend and the rep was confident that the 110mm wren is not excessively long in the a/c department to void the warranty.

  137. #337
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    Awesome! Sounds like no need to try and shorten the Wren to 100mm then. Thanks again.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    Fwiw, i talked to the salsa folks this weekend and the rep was confident that the 110mm wren is not excessively long in the a/c department to void the warranty.
    And you may need the warranty. RIPieces BS
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20160604_134227.jpg  

    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20160604_134203.jpg  


  139. #339
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    Oops.

    Is that an aluminum rear triangle?

    Quote Originally Posted by exp18 View Post
    And you may need the warranty. RIPieces BS

  140. #340
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Oops.

    Is that an aluminum rear triangle?
    It's like all of them aluminum chain stays and carbon seat stays. The aluminum chain stay broke right behind the swing fitting on the chainring that started it then everything else broke.

  141. #341
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    I just got the new QR and wow what a difference from the original one that came with my fork! Tell you what I am loving the customer service and quick response of Wren when I have reported issues this is how a bike parts company should be.

  142. #342
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    No bueno!
    Did you get any sort of warning (crack) or did it just snap? On an impact or JRA?
    Hopefully it didn't snap 10mi out.

  143. #343
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    Quote Originally Posted by exp18 View Post
    It's like all of them aluminum chain stays and carbon seat stays. The aluminum chain stay broke right behind the swing fitting on the chainring that started it then everything else broke.
    ...and if the length of the fork were at fault, the break would have happened right behind the head tube on the down or top tube.

    You just posted to vent about your Salsa, right?
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  144. #344
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    Quote Originally Posted by schnee View Post
    ...and if the length of the fork were at fault, the break would have happened right behind the head tube on the down or top tube.


    You just posted to vent about your Salsa, right?
    A little bit, but in the end they warranted it. This was the second set of chain stays for me the first one cracked that i found. This was the second set and obviously I didn't find this one soon enough. It took a little while to get them to warranty it. My LBS when to bat for me so I give them a lot of credit for making it happen.
    But the reason I really posted it was to remind folks that the warranty is important and if this happens they ask all the questions like fork length.

  145. #345
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    Just to comment on the issue with brake house. It needs to be attached by minimum 2 attahcments, and there need to be able to get the hose to glide through. The best way to run the hose is behind the fork leg and behind the crown. Make sure the hose is not touching anywhere, otherwise you will hurt the paint.

    The issue with the fork hitting the bump stop on top of stroke is possible to cure with 50/50 air volume counted with strokes. But if you want a bottom out resistance you will need to ad more air in bottom chamber. Then you will end up with still hitting the top. You can balance it further with adding air in top chamber giving you a bit less sag. To avvoid the fork hitting the bump stop just by adding rebound is a bad compromise. You will for sure not need so much rebound when riding. Actually the best is to have as little rebound as possible on the fork.

  146. #346
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    Or you can reduce the air volume on the positive air chamber like I did. I'm on an older single air model, but I don't see why it wouldn't work on new models too?

    For my use, the original air volume on the single air was too big, way too linear suspension. I either got harsh ride with a high pressure or a fork that bottomed out too easy, if the sag was right. I did tamper with the negative coil spring too, added some spacers to get more preload on it.

    The air volume in Bluto is way smaller compared to Wren.

  147. #347
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    Quote Originally Posted by vmk View Post
    Or you can reduce the air volume on the positive air chamber like I did. I'm on an older single air model, but I don't see why it wouldn't work on new models too?

    For my use, the original air volume on the single air was too big, way too linear suspension. I either got harsh ride with a high pressure or a fork that bottomed out too easy, if the sag was right. I did tamper with the negative coil spring too, added some spacers to get more preload on it.

    The air volume in Bluto is way smaller compared to Wren.
    If you mean the positive Chamber as the bottom Chamber? Yes but will not have any bottom out capability then.

  148. #348
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    On the newer dual air Wren, adding air to the negative chamber at the bottom of the fork leg reduces volume in the positive air chamber, making the travel more progressive and increasing resistance to bottoming out. I recently had to add a few pumps to my negative air chamber because I had a hard bottom out in a kinda unique spot on the trail.

  149. #349
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    On the newer dual air Wren, adding air to the negative chamber at the bottom of the fork leg reduces volume in the positive air chamber, making the travel more progressive and increasing resistance to bottoming out. I recently had to add a few pumps to my negative air chamber because I had a hard bottom out in a kinda unique spot on the trail.
    You could add a few pumps at the top chamber also, so it will not top out so much....

    A few tip when doing a service on the fork. Use Slick Honey on spring and moving parts, and Molykote 55 on the pistons. But on the keys there is a clue to use something sticky grease. I have used a grease from Omega, and I have been putting on grease 2-3 rounds on the keys and sliding it in the keyways. These will reduce the wearing and if possible the fork will feel even more plush...

  150. #350
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    My 150mm Wren has developed some free travel at the top of the stroke. Just a few mm but noticeable when climbing and the weight comes off the front. Anyone else experienced this or any idea what is going on?

  151. #351
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    Quote Originally Posted by brownmruk View Post
    My 150mm Wren has developed some free travel at the top of the stroke. Just a few mm but noticeable when climbing and the weight comes off the front. Anyone else experienced this or any idea what is going on?
    I had the same issue. Try to service the air side. It might develop some strange movement inside the air chamber caused by the huge amount of grease that after a while is ending up above the piston. I opened mine and found a peace of grease as big as the piston. Cleaned everything and applied new slick honey grease and molykote grease on the piston. The play disappeared.

  152. #352
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    OK, I'll open it up and clean/check the air side. Not many miles on it since last serviced though. I should have said rebound doesn't affect the free travel (unless I fully close the damper).

  153. #353
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    Quote Originally Posted by brownmruk View Post
    OK, I'll open it up and clean/check the air side. Not many miles on it since last serviced though. I should have said rebound doesn't affect the free travel (unless I fully close the damper).
    If it is not the air side grease issue, it can be the compression unit that is broken. I have had one frien that had oil leak on his. Take out compression knob and shaft Assembly, to check if it is oil coming through.

  154. #354
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    So I have a new problem now.

    I've noticed when I compress the fork, the tire moves about 1/8 of an inch to the non-drive side. My spike tension is fine and the wheel is true and perfectly centered when not compressed.

    It is almost as if the air side is compressing before the oil side and therefore cocking my wheel over.

    I tightened my qr a bit more and that helped, but the issue is still there. It's as tight as I dare go.

    Normal? Or thoughts as to what could be the problem?

    The fork still rides the same as it ever did but this is concerning.

    Thanks.

  155. #355
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    Here are some pics.

    I tried letting all the air out of the fork and it compresses straight all the way down.

    The oil side has no resistance compared to the air side. I'm thinking that has to have something to do with it.

    It looks to me like there may be rub marks from the tire on the non-drive stanchion as well.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20161030_164122.jpg  

    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20161030_164135.jpg  

    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20161030_164143.jpg  

    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20161030_164300.jpg  

    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20161030_164311.jpg  

    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20161030_164317.jpg  

    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20161030_164432.jpg  


  156. #356
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    Doesn't show up well in the pics dammit.

  157. #357
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    Please, can you see full picture on your WOZO with this fork ?

  158. #358
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    Sure.

    FWIW I was informed that my fork is normal by Russ so false alarm on my part.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20161016_114004.jpg  


  159. #359
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    Thanks

  160. #360
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Large Foes Mutz, 26 x 4" On One Floaters
    CC Inline 5.5", 130-140psi, near factory setting, a little more active LSR
    Wren 150mm, 60 psi/60psi, full open dampener control.
    Me: 195# nakid.

    First ride, ten miles on dirt single track, some out of the seat climbing, some low angle jumps, nothing significant.

    Out of the box I noticed stanchion stikiness not unlike the Bluto. The stikiness improved somewhat with riding, but could probably benefit from some more to break in. I wonder whether this stikiness could be due to having an overly slack HTA (65deg) or there's some flex related "binding" at the seals.

    The initial dampening was excessive, so much so that it noticeably slowed the leg return.

    Anyone brave enough to try and change oil in the dampener unit? Would this void the warranty?
    I'm late to this thread, but have found using Maxima SC1 on stanchions relieves alot of stiction on new forks.

  161. #361
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    Quote Originally Posted by amercycprod View Post
    I'm late to this thread, but have found using Maxima SC1 on stanchions relieves alot of stiction on new forks.
    Just a little late, like a year! I sold this fork months ago!

    Anywsys, putting oil on the stanchions is not going to relieve stiction. Stiction is not caused by stanchion friction with the seals.

    It's generally flex, damping, and excess grease internally that makes a fork sticky

  162. #362
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    maybe someone can help me here. i bought a used wren fork . solo air 110mm travel.
    the leg with lockout and compression adj is leaking on top and there is a 1/4 up and down free play in that leg when i grab the stanchion just sliding it. the leg seal is seeping slightly as well. i took it for a ride around block. there is a heavy knocking noise at the end of rebound. the rebound speed and compression adj does not function at all. it seems to hold air good. there is definitely something wrong with the compression leg, the oil inside makes a buzzing noise as well.

    is it nomal for wren forks to have the knocking noise at the end of rebounding?
    what about the free play in the leg?

    can i go from 110mm travel to 150mm? or there is a way to extend the AC length?

    thanks
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  163. #363
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    maybe someone can help me here. i bought a used wren fork . solo air 110mm travel.
    the leg with lockout and compression adj is leaking on top and there is a 1/4 up and down free play in that leg when i grab the stanchion just sliding it. the leg seal is seeping slightly as well. i took it for a ride around block. there is a heavy knocking noise at the end of rebound. the rebound speed and compression adj does not function at all. it seems to hold air good. there is definitely something wrong with the compression leg, the oil inside makes a buzzing noise as well.

    is it nomal for wren forks to have the knocking noise at the end of rebounding?
    what about the free play in the leg?

    can i go from 110mm travel to 150mm? or there is a way to extend the AC length?

    thanks
    What that is the rod as come apart from the piston. They just screw together but it a little tricky getting into the damping system. If you are not pretty familiar with the internal workings of a shock I would suggest calling wren.
    I had this happen to my wren.

  164. #364
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    A 110mm travel wren is at max travel. You can only shorten it. The 150mm fork is a different one.

    The only way to be sure what is wrong with your fork is to tear it down to look at the damper side. It will probably need new parts of some sort, as the damper is supposed to be a sealed unit.

  165. #365
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    i watched this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6dC8CVKaUe0

    there is no oil in this fork?
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  166. #366
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    i watched this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6dC8CVKaUe0

    there is oil in the fork?
    If you don't already know this answer, you are the kind of person that service centers exist for. Pay someone else to fix your fork so you don't make it worse.

  167. #367
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    If you don't already know this answer, you are the kind of person that service centers exist for. Pay someone else to fix your fork so you don't make it worse.
    sorry i meant to type, there is no oil in this fork. cuz i did not see him put oil in
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  168. #368
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    sorry i meant to type, there is no oil in this fork. cuz i did not see him put oil in
    There is oil. The damper is just self-contained. I stand by my earlier comment.

  169. #369
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    There is oil. The damper is just self-contained. I stand by my earlier comment.
    i know you are trying to help. me and the seller are trying to work it out. the fork is leaking. from what you said there is no oil to pour in legs like rockshox or fox. the damper has oil internally which should not leak out unless there is a problem. im just trying to find some info. ive already taken this fork to 2 shops in my area. no one is familiar with it.
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  170. #370
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    i know you are trying to help. me and the seller are trying to work it out. the fork is leaking. from what you said there is no oil to pour in legs like rockshox or fox. the damper has oil internally which should not leak out unless there is a problem. im just trying to find some info. ive already taken this fork to 2 shops in my area. no one is familiar with it.
    Of course they aren't familiar with it. It is not a common fork. Few shops do much suspension work at all. Most ship it out anymore.

    There are posts where Wren owners discuss replacing bad dampers. There are pics. And descriptions.

  171. #371
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    i know you are trying to help. me and the seller are trying to work it out. the fork is leaking. from what you said there is no oil to pour in legs like rockshox or fox. the damper has oil internally which should not leak out unless there is a problem. im just trying to find some info. ive already taken this fork to 2 shops in my area. no one is familiar with it.
    Call Russ at Wren next week. He will go thru it with you.
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  172. #372
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    i know you are trying to help. me and the seller are trying to work it out. the fork is leaking. from what you said there is no oil to pour in legs like rockshox or fox. the damper has oil internally which should not leak out unless there is a problem. im just trying to find some info. ive already taken this fork to 2 shops in my area. no one is familiar with it.
    The Wren damper is a closed system, if you have oil in the fork leg, then the damper rod has come undone from the plunger, it's not field serviceable, the damper needs to be replaced. Call Wren.

  173. #373
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    Thanks for all your help. The seller said its still nder warranty. HE sent them an email already .

    I bought this fork to run 2xL tire. To change travel and AC length . Can I change the air spring and achieve that. Or the stanchions are different between 110mm and 150mm
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  174. #374
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    Thanks for all your help. The seller said its still nder warranty. HE sent them an email already .

    I bought this fork to run 2xL tire. To change travel and AC length . Can I change the air spring and achieve that. Or the stanchions are different between 110mm and 150mm
    If there is oil inside compression side it is leaking from the damper unit. It should be replaced.

    Travel and AC can be done in two ways. Travel reduction is made by putting clips (10mm steps) on top of the air spring. It just makes the travel shorter. The AC (axle to crown) length is the same. To shorten both the travel and AC (10mm steps) you put clips inside the air spring (see user manual). 150mm travel can be reduced to 120mm.

  175. #375
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    @akacoke - Where are you located? Wren has several service centers around the country that will be familiar with servicing the fork for you. Russ is out of the office this week so lets see what I can do to help.

    Can you measure the AC (axle to crown length) for me? I will check the chart and let you know if you can safely run the 2XL tire in that fork. I think that because it is a single air fork it is one of the earlier models and you may need to knock it back to 80mm of travel to be able to run that large a tire.

  176. #376
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    thanks for all your help.

    im in nor cal , bayarea. i just took the fork apart both sides greased everything. very simple design and robust design actually, found its missing a set screw to hold the lock out knob. there are 2 holding it. are the same size? what size are they?

    ac length is 480mm at current 110mm travel. my xxl tire is 31.25" tall so from axle to top of tire is 397mm. at 80mm travel if i bottom out ill have 3mm clearance. even that it wouldnt work in case if the tire grow a lil bit. if i can convert to 150mm reduce the travel by 40mm , itd definitely work. ill have a very slack HA which i like

    to extend the ac or travel is it just simple replacing the air spring assemb?

    i took it for another ride around the block, this knocking noise after rebound kinda concerns me, seller said it made that noise since new
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  177. #377
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    You cannot extend travel or a/c on the 110. If you wanted the 150, you should have bought the 150. Two different forks.

  178. #378
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    Yeah you can not go longer with the fork you have. /End story/ The knocking may or may not be able to be solved. That's a problem that has pretty much been solved now in the new forks. You have a very early fork, the next was 505 and with that you would need to run it at 80mm to safely avoid tire to crown contact, and really shouldn't use it with a tire over 4".

  179. #379
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    Yeah you can not go longer with the fork you have. /End story/ The knocking may or may not be able to be solved. That's a problem that has pretty much been solved now in the new forks. You have a very early fork, the next was 505 and with that you would need to run it at 80mm to safely avoid tire to crown contact, and really shouldn't use it with a tire over 4".
    their website says it run up to 5" tire. i mounted the XXL on a 80mm rolling surly rolling darryl found there is a offset in to the left(disc side) than under compression the tire leans to the same side cause it to rub. then i dismounted the tire put the wheel back on it there is an offset stil. i mounted the same wheel on my bluto measured no offset. i swapped my specialized stout 90mm wheel with chaoyang 4.9 on this fork same offset also rubs on compression. so it does not even clear 4.9" chaoyang tire
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  180. #380
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    Wren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20170103_213310.jpgWren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20170103_213301.jpgWren 150mm Tuning/Setup Guide-20170103_213336.jpg

    here are some pictures
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  181. #381
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    Is anyone else having problems with the quick release working loose after a hard off camber impact? Whenever I have a hit to the fork other than directly on I start getting a clunking sound which tells me the quick release loosened up again. Stop re-tighten and all good again. I am going to try some purple loctite to see if that can solve the problem since I think blue might be a bit too much if I do need to remove the wheel on the trail.

    What I would really like (sent a e-mail to Wren on this) is just a through bolt that uses an allen wrench to tighten and I would just carry that.

  182. #382
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    here are some pictures
    It seems to me that you have a 135mm hub spacing? There might be that it is only the 150mm hub spacing that can take the 5" tire?
    I see you have a different compression adjusting knob than the 150mm.

    If the wheel came from a surly/salsa bike it can also be dished towards the brake side? You need to check the dishing to?

  183. #383
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    The axle, if it is not broken, and sufficient tightened it will not get loose. There can be a broken locking mechanism where the bolt holding the lever is broken?

    If the axle is working, you will be 100% sure that you have tightened enough, if you take a tool and tight the nut a bit more after it is locked on the other side.

  184. #384
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    The axle, if it is not broken, and sufficient tightened it will not get loose. There can be a broken locking mechanism where the bolt holding the lever is broken?

    If the axle is working, you will be 100% sure that you have tightened enough, if you take a tool and tight the nut a bit more after it is locked on the other side.

    I have not tried to use a pair of pliers on the nut side yet, but plenty tight. Enough so that it to get the lever down is a bit of work. Once I put on the purple loctite I will cinch it down that bit extra from the nut side.

    I'm not the lightest of riders at 225lb and I do like to run over stuff so I know that is playing into this. On my old 29er I had this same problem and changed out the through bolt QR for just a through bolt and never had the issues again which is why I would like the same type of option for this fork.

  185. #385
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    It seems to me that you have a 135mm hub spacing? There might be that it is only the 150mm hub spacing that can take the 5" tire?
    I see you have a different compression adjusting knob than the 150mm.

    If the wheel came from a surly/salsa bike it can also be dished towards the brake side? You need to check the dishing to?
    i have the 150mm one, the wheels are not dished. at first that was what i thought too. i confirmed on 2 of my blutos. i talked to another used on PB or facebook, he was selling a mutz with newest 150mm wren running 4.8 JJ, he said his tire made contact with left leg several times while riding.

    they will clear 2xl but will rub under load to the left leg. so they wont work. i got rid of this fork already, and bought a lefty to run 2xl
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  186. #386
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    There is a new 150 thru axle QR that resolves this problem. Instead of just an alloy half moon on the qr side it has a brass insert and the end cap has a 5mm hex hole.

  187. #387
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    Quote Originally Posted by gravitylover View Post
    There is a new 150 thru axle QR that resolves this problem. Instead of just an alloy half moon on the qr side it has a brass insert and the end cap has a 5mm hex hole.
    Thank you so much for this response. I have that QR (after my original blew up after trying to get it tight) but I never noticed the 5mm hex head on the end cap side. So now the QR is locked down and end cap is snugged down tight with the hex.

  188. #388
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    Quote Originally Posted by KenPsz View Post
    Thank you so much for this response. I have that QR (after my original blew up after trying to get it tight) but I never noticed the 5mm hex head on the end cap side. So now the QR is locked down and end cap is snugged down tight with the hex.
    You're welcome.

  189. #389
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    Quote Originally Posted by KenPsz View Post
    Thank you so much for this response. I have that QR (after my original blew up after trying to get it tight) but I never noticed the 5mm hex head on the end cap side. So now the QR is locked down and end cap is snugged down tight with the hex.
    You will not be having tire rubbing it you tighten the axle with the 5mm hex tool on the nut. I am weighing 260lbs and have been using JJ 4.8 on 90mm rims, without any issue.

  190. #390
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    You will not be having tire rubbing it you tighten the axle with the 5mm hex tool on the nut. I am weighing 260lbs and have been using JJ 4.8 on 90mm rims, without any issue.
    I don't get tire rubbing now I get loose front tire after a off camber hit on the fork. But now that I know that Hex is there it is all tight.

  191. #391
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    You will not be having tire rubbing it you tighten the axle with the 5mm hex tool on the nut. I am weighing 260lbs and have been using JJ 4.8 on 90mm rims, without any issue.
    I dont know what to say to this. my axle was perfectly tight. if you scroll up this page post 322 363, another user is having same problem. maybe some forks does this , some forks dont. people tend to believe whatever they wanna beleive.

    my fork was sent back to Wren and gone thru a complete rebuild/damper change. came back still the same. Wren's official reponse on facebook is they cant confirm my concerns. they are not aware of their forks lean to the left
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  192. #392
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    I dont know what to say to this. my axle was perfectly tight. if you scroll up this page post 322 363, another user is having same problem. maybe some forks does this , some forks dont. people tend to believe whatever they wanna beleive.

    my fork was sent back to Wren and gone thru a complete rebuild/damper change. came back still the same. Wren's official reponse on facebook is they cant confirm my concerns. they are not aware of their forks lean to the left
    I wonder if it could be something up with your hub that is allowing the through bolt to go through but the hub itself is not right.

    Or another idea when I first build a wheel years ago I made it dead straight but I had built is leaning and did not notice it until I took the wheel off the truing stand.

    Can you post a picture of the fork with the wheel on it straight on?

  193. #393
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    I dont know why its so hard to believe there is a problem with these forks. ive had 2 different wheels thats been on 3 blutos, and 1 renagade. no issues what so ever. only on this wren fork. at the time when i had the wren fork, i had 2 blutos. and 1 ridge fork. 2 wheels/hubs are perfectly centered on these other forks.
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  194. #394
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    I dont know why its so hard to believe there is a problem with these forks. ive had 2 different wheels thats been on 3 blutos, and 1 renagade. no issues what so ever. only on this wren fork. at the time when i had the wren fork, i had 2 blutos. and 1 ridge fork. 2 wheels/hubs are perfectly centered on these other forks.
    Why because there are plenty of us that are not having this issue. So to say your issue is a indicator of a problem when you are the only one pretty much voicing this issue is a bit of a stretch.

    I too have had two wheels sets on my Wren with zero issue that you have voiced.

  195. #395
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    Quote Originally Posted by KenPsz View Post
    Why because there are plenty of us that are not having this issue. So to say your issue is a indicator of a problem when you are the only one pretty much voicing this issue is a bit of a stretch.

    I too have had two wheels sets on my Wren with zero issue that you have voiced.
    wow, Im the only one? can you just look at post 363 362 of this thread?
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  196. #396
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    wow, Im the only one? can you just look at post 363 362 of this thread?
    Ooops my bad 2 of you our of how many others that have this fork?

    Look I'm not looking to fight with you about this fork. I like mine and Wren has been nothing but awesome in the customer service department for me. You seem to be having bad luck don't know what to say.

    But instead of attitude looking for a fight why not look for a solution? A front on pic of the wheel on the fork goes a long way instead of saying these forks suck when others of us are having success.

  197. #397
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shinkers View Post
    So I have a new problem now.

    I've noticed when I compress the fork, the tire moves about 1/8 of an inch to the non-drive side. My spike tension is fine and the wheel is true and perfectly centered when not compressed.

    It is almost as if the air side is compressing before the oil side and therefore cocking my wheel over.

    I tightened my qr a bit more and that helped, but the issue is still there. It's as tight as I dare go.

    Normal? Or thoughts as to what could be the problem?

    The fork still rides the same as it ever did but this is concerning.

    Thanks.
    Quote Originally Posted by Shinkers View Post
    Here are some pics.

    I tried letting all the air out of the fork and it compresses straight all the way down.

    The oil side has no resistance compared to the air side. I'm thinking that has to have something to do with it.

    It looks to me like there may be rub marks from the tire on the non-drive stanchion as well.
    Quote Originally Posted by Shinkers View Post
    Sure.

    FWIW I was informed that my fork is normal by Russ so false alarm on my part.
    i stated this couple of post up, i saw a guy selling a mutz with new keyed stanchion wren on also a 150mm i cant remember if it was facebook or PB, he also confirmed there is a rub on his fork to left leg. happened 3-4 times while riding
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  198. #398
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    i stated this couple of post up, i saw a guy selling a mutz with new keyed stanchion wren on also a 150mm i cant remember if it was facebook or PB, he also confirmed there is a rub on his fork to left leg. happened 3-4 times while riding
    Mine moves when the QR got loose but I always stopped and tightened it. But if you continued to ride long enough the hole could become oblonged then would rub all the time. Like how a loose headset can ruin an aluminum frame.

  199. #399
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    Quote Originally Posted by KenPsz View Post
    Ooops my bad 2 of you our of how many others that have this fork?

    Look I'm not looking to fight with you about this fork. I like mine and Wren has been nothing but awesome in the customer service department for me. You seem to be having bad luck don't know what to say.

    But instead of attitude looking for a fight why not look for a solution? A front on pic of the wheel on the fork goes a long way instead of saying these forks suck when others of us are having success.
    i did resort to sulotion. i sent my fork in . wren replaced the damper and went the extra mile did not charge me. and even take care of return shipping, great service in honoring warranty. a great company to deal with. but the fork is still the same still leans. their initial response was the axle was a wrong axle. but later confirmed the axle was correct and also they informed me they could not confirm my concerns where the fork leans and tire rubs.

    im not trying to bash the fork or wren as a company, my post is just simply warn people who wants to run big tires on these forks that they could have a rub on the leg. and wren states on their site that it would clear 5 inch tires. which was not true in my case.
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  200. #400
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    i did resort to sulotion. i sent my fork in . wren replaced the damper and went the extra mile did not charge me. and even take care of return shipping, great service in honoring warranty. a great company to deal with. but the fork is still the same still leans. their initial response was the axle was a wrong axle. but later confirmed the axle was correct and also they informed me they could not confirm my concerns where the fork leans and tire rubs.

    im not trying to bash the fork or wren as a company, my post is just simply warn people who wants to run big tires on these forks that they could have a rub on the leg. and wren states on their site that it would clear 5 inch tires. which was not true in my case.
    so maybe what you have identified is not so much a problem as a limitation on tire size.

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