Will try going tubeless - what can go wrong?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Will try going tubeless - what can go wrong?

    I have a 2016 Motobecane with Mulefüt 80 SL rims and Vee Tire Co Bulldozer 26" x 4.7" tires. This is the combination that came with my bike from bikesdirect.com.

    I'd like to convert to tubeless. It looks pretty straightforward according to what I read online and what I saw in videos on Youtube. I'm one of those folks who tends to attract some bad luck when trying things like this for the first time. I'd like to check with the forum here on what I need to buy and what I should watch out for that could make the process difficult.

    Here is my Amazon shopping list. Am I missing anything?

    26 x 60 Rim Strip - Qty 2

    78mm Wide, 10m Long Rim Tape - Qty 1

    Tubeless Valve Stem Kit - Qty 1

    Hopefully I got those links right.

    I'd also like to replace the Bulldozer tires with Maxxis Colossus 26" x 4.8" tires. My Bulldozer tires are very uneven and out-of-round, especially the front tire. I have watched the tread on my front tire sway side to side for four years now and it's getting kind of old.

    Maxxis Colossus 26" x 4.8" Tires

    I will shop around for better prices. Amazon is just convenient for me to perform searches like this.

    Will this combination of hardware work with my Mulefüt 80 SL rims? Any words of wisdom from the forum?

    Thanks!

    -=- Boris

  2. #2
    Rippin da fAt
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    With patience, Grasshopper! You need to do the tape job meticulously for a good, reliable end result. Easy enough but does require patience and perseverance. Use a tube to set the tape for the first 24 hours or more, when the tape has had time to smooth out and adhere, you unseat one side of the tire, remove the tube and install the valve stem, close it up and air to seat the tire. Only add sealant after the tire is properly seated to avoid a Stan's shower.

    MuleFut rims are excellent for tubeless.

    Add Orange Seal Endurance to your list! The Colossus are very nice tires, you'll enjoy em.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
    Doctor recommended...

  3. #3
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    The only tip I would add to Banshee's great advice is to lay the wheel on a bucket when you go to reseat the bead, gravity will help especially with fat tires.
    '18 Ithaqua, '16 Bucksaw, '14 Mukluk, '07 Enduro

  4. #4
    turtles make me hot
    Reputation: NYrr496's Avatar
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    Get either Truckerco or Industry 9 valve stems. And a set of Problem Solvers Super P Nuts to go with em. Youll be much happier.
    I like turtles

  5. #5
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    I've posted this in the past. Have done probably 30 tires in the past, and still have rims from 2014 that are still holding air and sealant. Has cost me $18 for the stretch wrap. the only downfall, is I have to re-wrap the wheels when I change tires.

    Here's a pictorial on how I did it. Good Luck. The Stetch Wrap is available from Home Depot for $8 or $9.

    https://s1072.photobucket.com/user/B...?sort=6&page=1
    Dash Pt. State Park (Tacoma), Big Sky Montana during Snowboard Season, Duluth Mn, a couple of times of year incl. Xmas.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bumpyride View Post
    ... Have done probably 30 tires in the past, ... The Stetch Wrap is available from Home Depot for $8 or $9. ...
    That stretch wrap sounds interesting.
    That link won't display images for me.
    Could you upload to MTBR a key image that identifies the product and/or provide a product manufacturer and product id/name?
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  7. #7
    EAT MORE GRIME
    Reputation: 127.0.0.1's Avatar
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    fattystrippers


    makes fatbike tubeless dead simple and reliable
    "Put your seatbelt back on or get out and sit in the middle of that circle of death." - Johnny Scoot

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    That stretch wrap sounds interesting.
    That link won't display images for me.
    Could you upload to MTBR a key image that identifies the product and/or provide a product manufacturer and product id/name?
    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Pratt-Re...5001/202029371
    Dash Pt. State Park (Tacoma), Big Sky Montana during Snowboard Season, Duluth Mn, a couple of times of year incl. Xmas.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    That stretch wrap sounds interesting.
    That link won't display images for me.
    Could you upload to MTBR a key image that identifies the product and/or provide a product manufacturer and product id/name?
    Try this: https://s1072.photobucket.com/user/B...%20Wrap?sort=6
    Dash Pt. State Park (Tacoma), Big Sky Montana during Snowboard Season, Duluth Mn, a couple of times of year incl. Xmas.

  10. #10
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    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  11. #11
    Thingamejigger
    Reputation: Flying_Scotsman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 127.0.0.1 View Post
    fattystrippers


    makes fatbike tubeless dead simple and reliable
    true but then it falls down when you need to swap a set of tyres.

    The only thing I would add to your list that makes your tape more reliable, is a wrap of narrow tesa/dtswiss/stans tape in a 25mm width, wrap super tight at the beads and lip on rim. Doing this ensures you dont get leakage of sealant under the edge of the tape, and also protects the tape when changing tyres.

    Will try going tubeless - what can go wrong?-30452641738_be1e363c5d_c.jpg

  12. #12
    EAT MORE GRIME
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flying_Scotsman View Post
    true but then it falls down when you need to swap a set of tyres.

    The only thing I would add to your list that makes your tape more reliable, is a wrap of narrow tesa/dtswiss/stans tape in a 25mm width, wrap super tight at the beads and lip on rim. Doing this ensures you dont get leakage of sealant under the edge of the tape, and also protects the tape when changing tyres.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    well correct on fatty strippers, if left on for a month, they are there to stay
    if you move this direction, better buy a little pile of them

    but they do make mounting and airing up a breeze and you can use 'suspect' rim strips
    "Put your seatbelt back on or get out and sit in the middle of that circle of death." - Johnny Scoot

  13. #13
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    Thanks for the replies, everyone!

    I really like the ideas of using a bucket, extra tape, and even stretch wrap.

    -=- Boris

  14. #14
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    Updating an old thread of mine here ...

    I asked, "What could go wrong?" Well, let me tell you!

    I only had one big error on my first wheel which is I did not have one bead seated in the rim. The tire beads were floating in the middle of the rim. I could not get my air in faster than it was coming out. The solution was, as was mentioned here in this thread, to reinstall the tube after taping the rim. Inflate the tire and have the beads set into the rim. Then, deflate the tube and unseat only one bead.

    After flailing around with neither bead seated I installed that tube ... but my tire already full of sealant! Yuck, what a mess that was! With one bead seated I removed the tube and then inflated the tire with my compressor.

    On the second wheel I waited to add sealant until I had that one bead seated. It was breeze!

    Now I have two tubeless wheels sitting in my garage. They are pumped up to 20 PSI as a test. Hopefully they hold the air. I think they well. Then I will deflate them to 7 - 9 PSI.

    Thanks!

    -=- Boris

  15. #15
    Rippin da fAt
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    Boris, I have had to remove tires that were filled with sealant in the past and likely will in the future. First thing I do is recover as much of the sealant as I can cause that stuff is expensive for what you get, in terms of per ounce cost.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
    Doctor recommended...

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