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  1. #1
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    New question here. Where are the 2018 Mongoose Argus bikes at?

    Got my pennies saved for the 2018 White Argus Comp and It's nowhere to be purchased.

    What's the deal with these new bikes?

  2. #2
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    You know I have been wondering the same thing!

    I'm ready to pull the trigger on a 2018 white Argus comp or a 2017 Motobecane Sturgis.

    I called Mongoose and got somebody who seems like they are going to help me. They were really helpful but still provided no conclusive answers on my 2 main questions. 1) does it have rear thru axle and 2) When is it available.

    My main question about this bike is does it have a rear thru-axle? There are three places that I can find specs on the 2018 argus comp, but there are no clear pictures or verbiage of what is going on in the rear end of the bike.

    The 2018 mongoose dealer book, mongoose site & Amazon are not clear about the rear thru as far as how they are wording the specs. The wording is very odd. For example the amazon listing says "Rigid, reliable tectonic T2 aluminum fork with 150 mm spacing and 15 mm rear thru-axle makes for a more plush ride while reducing crucial bike weight". The wording to me is tricky because they go straight from a statement about the fork to the bike having a rear thru-axle.? The mongoose site and 2018 dealer book only mention the frame as "T2 Tectonic" where as when they speak of the 2017 models they make it very clear that the frame is rear thru axle starting: "Full Alloy Frame with 190 mm thru-axle". Take note of how the 2018 goes from 150mm to rear thru. It's confusing.

    So my question regarding the specs written about the 2018 models is why would you start a sentence about the fork and then finish it about the rear of the frame in the same sentence? So the 2018 specs verbiage doesn't line up with the way they talk about their 2017 models. they talk about their 2017 models starting and finishing a sentence specifically for the fork and specifically regarding the frame. so to me this bike msy or may not have a rear thru-axle and/or maybe they didn't mean to write what they wrote. Plus the pics near the rear dropouts look like the fat knob of a skewer.. Could be just me..

    On a related note,
    It seems like mongoose is about to release the 2018 argus comp model. I think it has more to do with what Amazon is doing as far as sales though. I say that because I have been daily watching Amazon (the sole Mongoose distributor) for the 2017 Argus expert. The expert was down to $959.00 shipped 3 days ago. this is the Argus model with the Bluto RockShox that doesn't seem to be replaced with a 2018 (or 2019-search the dealer books) model. The expert model is highly regarded and would be considered a "higher model" than the the 2017 argus and 2018 model despite the 2018 model having the tectonic T2 aluminum frame, a 1x10 gearing and internal cable routing, due to the 2017 featuring the blutos. $959.00 for a 2017 expert is a crazy good deal for a complete fat bike with 100mm rims, hydraulic discs & $500.00 shocks. the next day (literally) the same exact listing for the argus expert was back up to $1,650! that's up $700 over night!

    I interpret the price jump as mongoose/Amazon re-establishing the hierarchy of the line as they run near to the end of their 2017 stock. My thoughts are that if they want to debut a 2018 model Argus comp for around $900 to $1000 but the customer can still have a "higher model" model for less money (an argus expert for $959.00 - with blutos..!) then why would the average customer choose a 2018 model just to have the benefits of "Tectonic T2 aluminum and internal cable routing and worse shocks" for the same amount?

    Therefore mongoose/Amazon would need to raise the prices back up for the higher models so the new model will fit in place in the hierarchy and sell at their intended price

    I'm not saying the 2018 is a worse or less bike at all by any means, I'm just using the pricing increase of the 2017 expert model as evidence to make a point of why I feel the 2018 white Argus comp is about to come out.

    Here's Amazon's listing of the 2018 white Argus:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07BD..._1520945901653

  3. #3
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    So good news. Received confirmation that mongoose is working with Amazon to get the 2018 argus posted! Said in the next few days..

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    Pretty decent looking sub $1000 rig

  6. #6
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    For sure. This thing is hot and a killer value. Placed my order last night.

    Thru axle front and rear, 1x10, hydraulic 180mm disc, 4.5" tires, internal cable routing, sleek aluminum frame with rounded chain stays (not the smashed one's like other bikes) , Show me a better deal!

    With what I was saving for another bike I got a new helmet, new clipless shoes, new clipless pedals, a frame bag, fat fenders, riding goggles, riding gloves, a thru axle roof rack for my truck, and currently looking at 203 mm front and rear rotors for the heck of it.

    Not bad if you ask me.

  7. #7
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    My smokin new 2018 white mongoose argus comp is awesome! The first thing I want to say is that this is not a "Walmart bike"! The Argus comp is nowhere close to the Mongoose stigma for being an "average off the shelf supermarket store bike." Naysayers (if there are any of you out there) beware!

    To give you some background I been riding a hard tail front suspension aluminium framed Kona with disc brakes for about the last* 12 years. I had no complaints with that bike whatsoever, except maybe the excess of gears and the pure fact that it was getting old even though it never looked or felt old.. It kept up with more modern Konas made after it. But it was time for a change. I'm mostly ride dirt/soft rock singletrack-ish along with some downhill, but I am*by no means a downhill Rider. I ride mostly for exercise*and to enjoy the beautiful state of Missouri.

    I have spent the last few months researching fat bikes. There are so many great bikes out there but only a few made my pick list. (Motobecane Sturgis, Janis roughneck & the Mongoose Argus comp).

    The top features I was looking for in my first fat bike were: front and rear thru axles, a 1x10 (or 1x11) drivetrain, extra wide rims (preferably 100 mm) and internal tube cable routing. Other components like brakes, headset, bottom bracket, Etc.* don't need to be top-notch out of the box for me. I feel that those components could be upgraded later so those things were not deal breakers to me. The 2018 Mongoose Argus comp hit all those key points and then some.

    This bike doesn't ship with any "top-of-the-line" components (aside from the frame, fork and tires) but every component shipped is not bottom-shelf either. All of the components* are strong, solid,* and perfectly suitable for any average or above average rider. This makes the 2018 Argus comp a quick and inexpensive way to get into the Fat Bike World. You get a *badass* lightweight frame and fork, a 1x10 drivetrain & massive Wheels!!

    The first thing I noticed when riding this bike was the ultra-wide handlebars and turn radius. Not sure of the geometry behind it, but it seems when I do long wide turns the bike just digs in harder then I'm used to. It's kind of like comparing my Nissan Maxima to my BMW M3, where the M3 "just steers better" and "more direct".

    The next thing I noticed is the "1 by" drivetrain. wow! I haven't taken this on a downhill yet (just some rough grassy off-road area locally) but I can tell how much more direct and stiff this drivetrain is already due to the 1 by set up itself and the "narrow wide" chain ring.* The 1 by is a quieter system overall comparing to my previous 3 x 9. I can immediately tell how well the chainring and cassette work together now! I was also extremely surprised and how direct and Noise free the shifting was coming from the Shimano deore derailleur. There is absolutely no issues with those components at all.

    The tires shipped with a fairly low amount of pressure. Never using a Presta* valve system before, I pumped them up to 12 psi right out of the box completely disregarding all of the research and articles I read stating that these tires do best with 4 to 8 lbs, Max 10. 5 minutes into my first ride I was kicking myself for not listening to the research because 12 lb was actually too much! This part of it is hard to explain as I'm only a hundred and sixty pounds on a medium bike but somehow these tires seem to thrive around 5 or 7 psi.?

    I can't truly rate the braking yet as I have not done a downhill but I can say that the current Shimano setup is slightly less powerful than my previous hydraulic Elixir set was. This is not to say that these brakes are not powerful or inadequate, my comment is just for comparison. The stock rotors on The Argus are 180 mm, when purchasing the bike I already purchased 203mm Shimano floating rotors but I am going to get some use out of the 180's for atleast halfway through the summer until I upgrade to the 203's.

    There's a lot more I could say about this but I think this is a good starting point. The bike is a thrill to ride and it's a great value and I would highly recommend it to anyone wanting to break into the fatbike world.

  8. #8
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    Sounds good. Having got it wrong, I 100% agree on thru axles as a prime criteria. Otherwise any future upgrading just gets stupid expensive with new wheels or hubs and rebuilds.
    Why fascination with 203 rotors? Most will find a 180fr and 160rr adequate on a fatty.
    Some nice pics would be much appreciated (some may argue it didn't happen without a few snaps)

  9. #9
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    What does the rim profile on these look like? Can it hold the tire on the bead tubeless at less than 5 PSI?

    From what I have learned in my Fat Bike endeavor, this is a requirement. This means Mulefut or similar with a ridge on the rim to keep the tire on the bead.

    I agree with the 150x15 front and 197x12 thru axles as another requirement.
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  10. #10
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    Ya so the thru axle requirement was not necessarily because I "needed them". The differences between a fatbike and regular mountain bike are so vast that I probably couldn't pinpoint any gain in stiffness or ride quality due to them.. Now if I put them on my last bike I could probably (maybe?) feel some difference I bet.

    The thru axle just seems to be where most Mtb and fatbike manufacturers are moving to. It's kind of like when bikes started moving to disc brakes and I was needing a new bike. At that time both rim brake bikes and disc brake bikes were at the same LBS. what would you choose? Know what I mean..

    No real fascination with the 203mm. I just purchased a few extra parts for the neck of it. Got the floating 203's to make my bike stand apart from the rest of the Argus comps that will probably be flooding some trails by midsummer.. Honestly the 180's are probably sufficient for my needs but what the neck.

    I won't be able to post pics for a bit longer and plus need to know where to host pics from since photo bucket geeked out..

    So in riding tonight I noticed something that is really bothering me about the bike. I can't tell if my issue is due ti this specific bike or if it's all the differences between a fatbike and mountain bike that I need to get used to.. when I turn hard the steering turns too much. It's not this drastic but it almost feels like I'm on training wheels and about to go over the bars. (That's an exaggeration but you get my point). The steering is super direct compared to my last bike and I don't know if that's normal. my last mountain bike had a 110 mm front suspension and I had the bars sawed down real narrow. (Narrow short Bars have been my thing since childhood). Last bike was also a 26er. The Argus comp is a fatbike with 26 inch wheels that are basically 29ers, the whole front end sits up higher, there is no suspension and the bars are at least 2 inches wider on each side than I'm used to riding. so it's hard for me to pinpoint if this is normal or if I just need to saw my bars down to get a similar feeling back? I want the steering to be less sharp. Any suggestions there?

  11. #11
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    I think you might be experiencing self steer, a common phenomena with fat tires run at low pressure. Most noticeable on hard or sealed surfaces.
    Generally not/ or less noticeable on loose surfaces. Try higher pressures if you are riding on pavement, before you start cutting your bars etc.
    Hopefully it's that simple a fix and not an issue with an over steep HT angle

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by mesa3077boogie View Post
    Ya so the thru axle requirement was not necessarily because I "needed them". The differences between a fatbike and regular mountain bike are so vast that I probably couldn't pinpoint any gain in stiffness or ride quality due to them.. Now if I put them on my last bike I could probably (maybe?) feel some difference I bet.

    The thru axle just seems to be where most Mtb and fatbike manufacturers are moving to. It's kind of like when bikes started moving to disc brakes and I was needing a new bike. At that time both rim brake bikes and disc brake bikes were at the same LBS. what would you choose? Know what I mean..

    No real fascination with the 203mm. I just purchased a few extra parts for the neck of it. Got the floating 203's to make my bike stand apart from the rest of the Argus comps that will probably be flooding some trails by midsummer.. Honestly the 180's are probably sufficient for my needs but what the neck.

    I won't be able to post pics for a bit longer and plus need to know where to host pics from since photo bucket geeked out..

    So in riding tonight I noticed something that is really bothering me about the bike. I can't tell if my issue is due ti this specific bike or if it's all the differences between a fatbike and mountain bike that I need to get used to.. when I turn hard the steering turns too much. It's not this drastic but it almost feels like I'm on training wheels and about to go over the bars. (That's an exaggeration but you get my point). The steering is super direct compared to my last bike and I don't know if that's normal. my last mountain bike had a 110 mm front suspension and I had the bars sawed down real narrow. (Narrow short Bars have been my thing since childhood). Last bike was also a 26er. The Argus comp is a fatbike with 26 inch wheels that are basically 29ers, the whole front end sits up higher, there is no suspension and the bars are at least 2 inches wider on each side than I'm used to riding. so it's hard for me to pinpoint if this is normal or if I just need to saw my bars down to get a similar feeling back? I want the steering to be less sharp. Any suggestions there?
    Can we please get some "Real" pictures of this bike and the box it came in?

    You can post pictures here and provide a link: https://imgur.com

    Thank You.

  13. #13
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    better steering

    Quote Originally Posted by mesa3077boogie View Post
    The first thing I noticed when riding this bike was the ultra-wide handlebars and turn radius. Not sure of the geometry behind it, but it seems when I do long wide turns the bike just digs in harder then I'm used to. It's kind of like comparing my Nissan Maxima to my BMW M3, where the M3 "just steers better" and "more direct".
    Lopping about an inch off ends improved 2016 Argus handlebars for me..
    Among other changes, 2018 Argus "updated geometry that stretched the top tube and shortened the stem", and a shorter stem makes steering a little more direct (and more comfortable, to me).

    somehow these tires seem to thrive around 5 or 7 psi.
    That's where I kept mine for beach riding. You should not have got appreciable "self-steer" at 12 psi; massively increased flywheel precession probably accounts for much of that steering feel difference.

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    Quote Originally Posted by blekenbleu View Post
    Lopping about an inch off ends improved 2016 Argus handlebars for me..
    Among other changes, 2018 Argus "updated geometry that stretched the top tube and shortened the stem", and a shorter stem makes steering a little more direct (and more comfortable, to me).


    That's where I kept mine for beach riding.* You should not have got appreciable "self-steer" at 12 psi; massively increased flywheel precession probably accounts for much of that steering feel difference.
    Hello everyone sorry I haven't been able to post any pics yet. I shot some pics for log home last night in my apartment not the best backdrop but here is the link: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/gdw8akq07...7QPUE4p9a?dl=0

    So get this, most of my self steer went away once I pumped the tires to an adequate pressure! turns out my gauge was not registering pressure until past 10 psi. so what looked like 8 PSI was actually like 4 or 5 Or something. So at 10 psi even on the street I'm getting *way* less self steer.

    I will still probably trim the bars down a bit just do to my personal preference.

    The other concern I have is that the dropouts are Hollow. The derail your side dropout* is hollowed out* but the main part I am talking about is the part of the frame right in front of the dropouts basically at the end of the chainstay and seatstays that meet at the drop out.

    on the stock photos of the bike you can only see the outside of These bars (except one pic) but behind that area what they don't show you is that this is a rounded hollowed-out piece of metal that's about 4 or 5 mm thick and its "hollow looking".

    It probably does not affect the Integrity of the frame or stiffness but it just looks cheapISH. It looks like mongoose took a short cut here and to me is worth bringing up to others who might have these similar aesthetic qualms.

    Its not a huge issue but something as simple as a flattened chainstays tubing (think framed Minnesota) is what kept me away from buying some other fat bikes..

    Any thoughts on this?

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    Hollow dropouts look like a weak point to me.

    Thanks for the pictures. Can you add a couple pictures without the bags on the frame?

    Now I can't decide between this new comp and last years expert.

    Wonder if the Expert will drop down in price again on Amazon.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Log Home View Post
    Hollow dropouts look like a weak point to me.

    Thanks for the pictures. Can you add a couple pictures without the bags on the frame?

    Now I can't decide between this new comp and last years expert.

    Wonder if the Expert will drop down in price again on Amazon.
    Lol I knew you would ask! Yes I can.

    Anyone else agree with the dropouts?

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    Quote Originally Posted by mesa3077boogie View Post
    Lol I knew you would ask! Yes I can.

    Anyone else agree with the dropouts?
    Thanks, I'll keep an eye out for them.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Log Home View Post
    Hollow dropouts look like a weak point to me.

    Thanks for the pictures. Can you add a couple pictures without the bags on the frame?

    Now I can't decide between this new comp and last years expert.

    Wonder if the Expert will drop down in price again on Amazon.
    Last year's expert was down to $954.00 on 3/10/18. Not sure if it will come back down or not. I really dig that bike though. The only reason I didn't get it cuz it didn't have the internal cable routing or the new frame material..

    Those blutos though!

    The 2019 Argus comp already changed the dropouts BTW. Google 2019 Mongoose Dealer Book

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    Quote Originally Posted by mesa3077boogie View Post
    Last year's expert was down to $954.00 on 3/10/18. Not sure if it will come back down or not. I really dig that bike though. The only reason I didn't get it cuz it didn't have the internal cable routing or the new frame material..

    Those blutos though!

    The 2019 Argus comp already changed the dropouts BTW. Google 2019 Mongoose Dealer Book
    Did you have any damage to the bike or frame right out of the box?

    Saw that scratched rim.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mesa3077boogie View Post
    Lol I knew you would ask! Yes I can.

    Anyone else agree with the dropouts?
    Will you put the bagless pictures in that same album?

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    Sure! Will let you know.

  22. #22
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    dropouts

    Quote Originally Posted by mesa3077boogie View Post
    The other concern I have is that the dropouts are Hollow. The derail your side dropout* is hollowed out* but the main part I am talking about is the part of the frame right in front of the dropouts basically at the end of the chainstay and seatstays that meet at the drop out.

    on the stock photos of the bike you can only see the outside of These bars (except one pic) but behind that area what they don't show you is that this is a rounded hollowed-out piece of metal that's about 4 or 5 mm thick and its "hollow looking".

    It probably does not affect the Integrity of the frame or stiffness but it just looks cheapISH. It looks like mongoose took a short cut here and to me is worth bringing up to others who might have these similar aesthetic qualms.

    Its not a huge issue but something as simple as a flattened chainstays tubing (think framed Minnesota) is what kept me away from buying some other fat bikes..

    Any thoughts on this?
    Dropouts are probably forged, and cracks might more (but not very) likely form in tubes at other sides of welds.

  23. #23
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    Okay I D bagged it and took some more pics for you bros. the new pics are in the same folder ( https://www.dropbox.com/sh/gdw8akq07...7QPUE4p9a?dl=0 ) these were shot with my Android not my iPhone so the quality is not as good.

    I don't feel so bad about the dropouts on my Argus comp seeing that the Borealis Flume frame has some fairly identical-looking rear dropouts! ( https://www.fatbike.com/product/flume-frame/ )
    But despite the Borealis name I like the Argus better since the flume has those wacky chain stay bends.

    Also, I didn't quite understand the comment above about the forged. Forged is good so I'm not quite sure what you meant @blekenbleu.?

    Lastly, today I rode some trails and then near the river beach. The Argus surprised the living crap out of me how will it did on the sand. Wow. It really did just glide right over. It was surprisingly easy to steer too. Wish it had one higher gear for climbing a sandy embankment but I will save those types of upgrades for another year.

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    Thanks for the pictures. That is one sweet looking bike.

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    What kind or orange tape did you use on the rims?

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    what I meant by forged

    Quote Originally Posted by mesa3077boogie View Post
    I don't feel so bad about the dropouts on my Argus comp seeing that the Borealis Flume frame has some fairly identical-looking rear dropouts! ( https://www.fatbike.com/product/flume-frame/ )
    But despite the Borealis name I like the Argus better since the flume has those wacky chain stay bends.

    Also, I didn't quite understand the comment above about the forged. Forged is good so I'm not quite sure what you meant @blekenbleu.?
    I meant, based on long experience as engineer and bike fiddler (then research but more limited experience with AL frames) that those dropouts per se are unlikely to be points of failure, unless the axle or brake works loose and chews things up. I would sooner expect cracks to develop in tubes welded to dropouts, not that either is likely if properly heat-treated.

    Lastly, today I rode some trails and then near the river beach. The Argus surprised the living crap out of me how will it did on the sand. Wow. It really did just glide right over. It was surprisingly easy to steer too. Wish it had one higher gear for climbing a sandy embankment but I will save those types of upgrades for another year.
    Experience with a 30T chainwheel to 36T rear cog with 4.5 tire on sand banks led me to conclude that momentum was key and shorter gearing counter-productive; with more torque, that tire dug in and got stuck.

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    It's orange duct tape from Walmart. it was about $3.50. I stretched out a long strip on my kitchen floor and then just placed another piece up against it so the sticky wouldn't be exposed. After attaching it to the rim, I then stretched the original Rim strip back over it since the diameter of the duct tape was kind of narrow compared to the width of the rim. Could have got a couple of these ( https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F302212642208 )but didn't want to spend the money and plus I wanted the shine of the duct tape.

    Any new thoughts on the dropouts since now we find Higher and bikes do the same?

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    Quote Originally Posted by blekenbleu View Post
    I meant, based on long experience as engineer and bike fiddler (then research but more limited experience with AL frames) that those dropouts per se are unlikely to be points of failure, unless the axle or brake works loose and chews things up. I would sooner expect cracks to develop in tubes welded to dropouts, not that either is likely if properly heat-treated.
    Yeah I'm fairly confident Mongoose knows what they're doing with frames as far as strength and design. it just stuck out to me the shape of these style of dropouts. I frankly never seen them before this but now that I'm looking I see them on other bikes.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mesa3077boogie View Post
    Yeah I'm fairly confident Mongoose knows what they're doing with frames as far as strength and design. it just stuck out to me the shape of these style of dropouts. I frankly never seen them before this but now that I'm looking I see them on other bikes.

    Did you have any damage to the bike or frame right out of the box?

    Saw that scratched rim.

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    Ya the rim came with about a 13 mm gouge scratch. Other than that it was fairly flawless and it was packed pretty well.

    On my last ride this past Friday the front brake was humming pretty bad went to go adjust the caliper bracket and the bolt just kept spinning. I kept it as is and kept writing but haven't messed with it since. I am going to contact Mongoose to see what they could do about it because it seems stripped out which is a pretty big bummer for only a few rides in.

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    Any pictures of the rim profile available to see if they have bead locks?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Fithian View Post
    Any pictures of the rim profile available to see if they have bead locks?
    Yeah I got a few pictures in the Dropbox folder (link above), see if they'll do..

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    Can't decide between this or the expert. Love the hidden cables of the 2018 Comp but also love the Bluto fork on the expert.

    What other differences are there between the two?

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    The main differences as I see it is the new frame material, updated geometry, internal cable routing, 1 x 10 drivetrain (2017 expert has 2 x 9), tires, rims (cooler looking on the expert Imo), and forks.

    I don't have an exact list of part handy to compare all the individual components but other parts such as bottom bracket quality of Crank, headset shifters Etc are all going to be about the same. Except the 18 will have the narrow wide since 1x10.

    If you would have got the expert a few weeks back it would have been a killer value.

    But now, it's not worth the $1500 or $1,600 to purchase a mongoose with blutos when you could get something like the motobecane Sturgis which is fairly comfortable for $1500 with the internal cable routing, blutos and 1 x 12 drivetrain.Free Ship 48 Plus Save up to 60% off new SL CARBON Fat bikes and Mountain Bikes - MTB - Motobecane NightTrain Express EAGLE 1X12 SL CARBON FORK Fatbikes
    The only issue I have with the Sturgis (and this is my personal opinion) is that to me it looks like their regular mountain bike frame but slightly reformed to be a fat bike. I get that is what most companies do.. maybe it's just the geometry between the seat stay and top tube that I don't like. for the size medium it's too big of an angle whereas The Argus has that slanted straight look between the seats day and top tube that I really like.

    Again for me, Forks and components can always be upgraded later. So for a budget-conscious person like myself I like to get the most bang for my buck out of the box and upgrade later rather than forking out a higher premium Now for those parts but that's just my personal preference.

    If you (or me) would have pulled the trigger on the 2017 expert a month ago that would have been a killer value but for what it's going for right now it's just too much. I Teeter on thinking that's what I should have done and being completely content with what I have. I tell myself I could have upgraded a frame later to the internal cable routing and upgraded to a 1 by 10 if I would have purchased the expert at the low cost of around $900 but I went with the 2018 and am content.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mesa3077boogie View Post
    Yeah I got a few pictures in the Dropbox folder (link above), see if they'll do..
    Can't really tell from those pictures if the rims have a bead lock.

    Has anyone tried to run these rims tubeless at less than 5 PSI?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Fithian View Post
    Can't really tell from those pictures if the rims have a bead lock.

    Has anyone tried to run these rims tubeless at less than 5 PSI?
    I edited those pictures and re uploaded them. I brightened them up a bit you can see the bead a lot better now. I'm fairly certain that this is what you are looking for but I don't have any info on the 5 PSI.

    There might be more info regarding riding low PSI and tubeless for the 2017 Argus models. I can't really find a whole heck of a lot on xposure rims. these seem to be xposure's "complete bike generics", but again the bead looks pretty thick to me and seems like it will do.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mesa3077boogie View Post
    The main differences as I see it is the new frame material, updated geometry, internal cable routing, 1 x 10 drivetrain (2017 expert has 2 x 9), tires, rims (cooler looking on the expert Imo), and forks.

    I don't have an exact list of part handy to compare all the individual components but other parts such as bottom bracket quality of Crank, headset shifters Etc are all going to be about the same. Except the 18 will have the narrow wide since 1x10.

    If you would have got the expert a few weeks back it would have been a killer value.

    But now, it's not worth the $1500 or $1,600 to purchase a mongoose with blutos when you could get something like the motobecane Sturgis which is fairly comfortable for $1500 with the internal cable routing, blutos and 1 x 12 drivetrain.Free Ship 48 Plus Save up to 60% off new SL CARBON Fat bikes and Mountain Bikes - MTB - Motobecane NightTrain Express EAGLE 1X12 SL CARBON FORK Fatbikes
    The only issue I have with the Sturgis (and this is my personal opinion) is that to me it looks like their regular mountain bike frame but slightly reformed to be a fat bike. I get that is what most companies do.. maybe it's just the geometry between the seat stay and top tube that I don't like. for the size medium it's too big of an angle whereas The Argus has that slanted straight look between the seats day and top tube that I really like.

    Again for me, Forks and components can always be upgraded later. So for a budget-conscious person like myself I like to get the most bang for my buck out of the box and upgrade later rather than forking out a higher premium Now for those parts but that's just my personal preference.

    If you (or me) would have pulled the trigger on the 2017 expert a month ago that would have been a killer value but for what it's going for right now it's just too much. I Teeter on thinking that's what I should have done and being completely content with what I have. I tell myself I could have upgraded a frame later to the internal cable routing and upgraded to a 1 by 10 if I would have purchased the expert at the low cost of around $900 but I went with the 2018 and am content.
    I agree 100%. Would only consider the expert if Amazon lowers the price again.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mesa3077boogie View Post
    I edited those pictures and re uploaded them. I brightened them up a bit you can see the bead a lot better now. I'm fairly certain that this is what you are looking for but I don't have any info on the 5 PSI.

    There might be more info regarding riding low PSI and tubeless for the 2017 Argus models. I can't really find a whole heck of a lot on xposure rims. these seem to be xposure's "complete bike generics", but again the bead looks pretty thick to me and seems like it will do.
    Those may work for a low pressure tubeless setup.

    Looking forward to a report where someone was successful with this.
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    How are the tires on this new bike?

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    Fat..

    First fat bike so nothing to compare to. I can say they have about 75% as much tread as some tires (or 25% less) but those tires comparing to are much more expensive. No issues on gripping the trail or road to note so far..

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    Quote Originally Posted by mesa3077boogie View Post
    Ya the rim came with about a 13 mm gouge scratch. Other than that it was fairly flawless and it was packed pretty well.

    On my last ride this past Friday the front brake was humming pretty bad went to go adjust the caliper bracket and the bolt just kept spinning. I kept it as is and kept writing but haven't messed with it since. I am going to contact Mongoose to see what they could do about it because it seems stripped out which is a pretty big bummer for only a few rides in.
    Did you call Mongoose and what did they say? I would also complain about that scratched rim.

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    You know I didn't complain about the scratched rim but I think I will bring that up. I have an open ticket with them or I just sent them pictures. We'll see what happens

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    Quote Originally Posted by mesa3077boogie View Post
    You know I didn't complain about the scratched rim but I think I will bring that up. I have an open ticket with them or I just sent them pictures. We'll see what happens
    Any update on this?

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    A scratched rim? Is it really worth the headache to process a claim? Take a black Sharpie to it and go ride.

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    OP

    I was curious; did you have a chance to weigh the argus comp?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Log Home View Post
    Any update on this?
    Mongoose offered me a Blue Fork from last year's model and say there is no ETA on when they can get a black one. they also said I can try and return it through Amazon but that is out of the question for me so I asked them for more options.

    Quote Originally Posted by BlueCheesehead View Post
    A scratched rim?* Is it really worth the headache to process a claim?* Take a black Sharpie to it and go ride.
    If the issue was the rim alone then yes I would *maybe* pass on getting them involved. But remember contacting them originated from the randomly stripped post mounts that happened on one of my first rides. There were even other nicks, dings and scratches (from shipping I assume.?)once I received the bike. so far I have only added the rim (largest issue of the shipping damages) to the stripped post mount ticket. We'll see.

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    Quote Originally Posted by darkside212 View Post
    OP

    I was curious; did you have a chance to weigh the argus comp?
    Not the OP but I can help! 😀

    Bike alone is 33lbs.

    I base this value on weighing myself while holding the bike standing on a scale, then subtracting my weight from the total.

    Anyone have any ideas how that compares to other fat bikes or other hardtail mountain bikes? I already forgot what my hardtail was..

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    Thats pretty decent for a fatty at that pricepoint. That means it will be close to 30lb just by going tubeless

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    My aluminum frame, extra large, Salsa Mukluk is 32#, tubeless, with pedals. 33# sounds very good.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueCheesehead View Post
    My aluminum frame, extra large, Salsa Mukluk is 32#, tubeless, with pedals.* 33# sounds very good.
    Ok wow. The Argus is pretty comparable to other fatbikes then.

    I'm not really sold on tubeless yet but not necessarily opposed either. I'm used to riding with two spares but I'm only riding with one spare currently because I can only fit one. The one I carry is heavy too.

    Also note that I also ride with spare "tire rubber" (cut up pieces of inner tube), sandpaper and adhesive for for flat repair.

    My question is what would I need with me to switch to tubeless? I get it, I would have 3 less tubes then currently but I figure I would still need repair Kit I currently use and maybe even more parts that go with a tubeless set up..?

    What do you think?

  51. #51
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    Tires have sealant. I carry a couple CO2s and a cell phone. I could carry a tube and put in trail side. One would have a hard time breaking a bead loose, patching a hole and reinflating tubeless on the trail. A 26 x 2.75" MTB tube will stretch and fit a 4" tire. They are much lighter. I have not tried it on a 5" tire.

    Tire plugs are the other option.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mesa3077boogie View Post
    Ok wow. The Argus is pretty comparable to other fatbikes then.

    I'm not really sold on tubeless yet but not necessarily opposed either. I'm used to riding with two spares but I'm only riding with one spare currently because I can only fit one. The one I carry is heavy too.

    Also note that I also ride with spare "tire rubber" (cut up pieces of inner tube), sandpaper and adhesive for for flat repair.

    My question is what would I need with me to switch to tubeless? I get it, I would have 3 less tubes then currently but I figure I would still need repair Kit I currently use and maybe even more parts that go with a tubeless set up..?

    What do you think?
    rotational mass is where weight savings mean the most.

    to go tubeless you need:
    gorilla tape, a tubeless valve, sealant (home brew works great), and tubeless tires.

  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkside212 View Post
    rotational mass is where weight savings mean the most.

    to go tubeless you need:
    gorilla tape, a tubeless valve, sealant (home brew works great), and tubeless tires.
    Most tires can be run tubeless. Many find that Zip or Tyvek flashing tape works better than Gorilla tape. The biggest challenge is the rim. I am not familiar with the Xposure rims to know if they will hold tubeless at low pressures.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mesa3077boogie View Post
    Mongoose offered me a Blue Fork from last year's model and say there is no ETA on when they can get a black one. they also said I can try and return it through Amazon but that is out of the question for me so I asked them for more options.



    If the issue was the rim alone then yes I would *maybe* pass on getting them involved. But remember contacting them originated from the randomly stripped post mounts that happened on one of my first rides. There were even other nicks, dings and scratches (from shipping I assume.?)once I received the bike. so far I have only added the rim (largest issue of the shipping damages) to the stripped post mount ticket. We'll see.
    Did you have nicks, dings and scratches to the actual frame and fork right out of the box?

    The blue Comp that I purchased last year had a real bad scratched fork and several dings to the frame itself.

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueCheesehead View Post
    I carry a couple CO2s and a cell phone.
    Sheeit, that's it? What kinda rides do you do with that?

    Heres my list 😲

    Frame bag contents: 2L water bladder, water bladder hose, water bladder hose insulator, 1 fat inner tube, 8 extra zip ties, 2 pair of socks (1 for cell phone, 1 for me), Neosporin, gauze, injury/hospital tape, chain lube, tire hand pump, locktight, inner tube pieces for flats, small scissors, rubber cement, sand paper, 3 folded paper towels, spare master link, spare chainring bolts, sun glasses, goggles (I wear one or the other)
    Total frame bag weight - 9lbs

    Seat bag contents: Allen wrench set, 15mm(?) pedal wrench, needle nose pliars, full can of aerosol bug spray, small cloth rag, master link breaker tool, full finger gloves, half finger gloves (I wear one or the other)
    Total seat bag weight - 3lbs

    Both bags total - 12lbs (yikes!)


    Quote Originally Posted by BlueCheesehead View Post
    One would have a hard time breaking a bead loose, patching a hole and reinflating tubeless on the trail.
    So what do you do for rips? Walk it back?

    Quote Originally Posted by BlueCheesehead View Post
    A 26 x 2.75" MTB tube will stretch and fit a 4" tire. They are much lighter.
    You got a point but that still seems like quite the risk don't you think? These fat inner tubes blew my mind how big they are. Not to mention super heavy too (compared to standard or 26x2.5)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Log Home View Post
    Did you have nicks, dings and scratches to the actual frame and fork right out of the box?

    The blue Comp that I purchased last year had a real bad scratched fork and several dings to the frame itself.
    Yup that's right! I believe it. I read similar stories about the Mongoose/Amazon bikes.. Doesn't make em bad bikes just means they need to invest more in packaging..

  57. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by mesa3077boogie View Post
    Sheeit, that's it? What kinda rides do you do with that?

    Heres my list 😲

    Frame bag contents: 2L water bladder, water bladder hose, water bladder hose insulator, 1 fat inner tube, 8 extra zip ties, 2 pair of socks (1 for cell phone, 1 for me), Neosporin, gauze, injury/hospital tape, chain lube, tire hand pump, locktight, inner tube pieces for flats, small scissors, rubber cement, sand paper, 3 folded paper towels, spare master link, spare chainring bolts, sun glasses, goggles (I wear one or the other)
    Total frame bag weight - 9lbs

    Seat bag contents: Allen wrench set, 15mm(?) pedal wrench, needle nose pliars, full can of aerosol bug spray, small cloth rag, master link breaker tool, full finger gloves, half finger gloves (I wear one or the other)
    Total seat bag weight - 3lbs

    Both bags total - 12lbs (yikes!)
    is this just for day rides? That is almost as much as I take on 2-3 day bike packing trips. That seems to be a lot of extra poundage for the regular 2-3 hour daily trips, unless you are a trail steward, or are in training for bike packing...

    not hatin' - just being curious
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    Quote Originally Posted by sXeXBMXer View Post
    is this just for day rides? That is almost as much as I take on 2-3 day bike packing trips. That seems to be a lot of extra poundage for the regular 2-3 hour daily trips, unless you are a trail steward, or are in training for bike packing...

    not hatin' - just being curious
    Ya I'm a packrat when it comes to mountain biking but a minimalist for the rest of my life.

    95% of my riding is trail riding. So on these trails I'm a minimum of 30 minutes from my truck by foot. Average 45 minutes and Max 2 hours from my truck on foot. Every 10 to 15 rides I will justify bringing all of those items except maybe the chainring bolts, wrench for the pedals, and chain breaker tool.

    So My Philosophy (ridiculous as it may be) is that every two to three hour ride is precious. I'm riding to enjoy the outdoors, get the exercise and be comfortable while doing it. I'm not riding out there trying to rough it. I'm there to maximize my riding experience and enjoy every minute since time is not cheap and life is precious with the time we got.

    To tie it together, let me define what I mean by comfort and enjoying the experience: minimalizing bug bite torture (bug spray), not having the sun Blair in my eyes while coasting down a steep hill (glasses), being well hydrated (2l water bladder), peace of mind if a thorn branch grazes my jugular unexpectedly at the bottom of a downhill *again* (first aid), quiet and frictionzLess peddling (chain lube), etc.*

    Not being equipped to finish the ride and having to walk back to my truck even if 30 minutes would ruin the ride£. I put so much emphasis on a smooth, challenging, comfortable ride on a stable bike that I pack a bit more to ease my mind and reduce my chances of a bad ride.

    I'm only picky about a few things and this is one of em 😀

  59. #59
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    For Mesa3077s queries re tubeless tires

    You will get away with a smaller tube, 2.6 or 2.75 etc. With tubeless you will only need one as you would only use it in the case of a big tear. You wont even notice all the small nail or thorn flats because of the sealant.
    Even quite big holes can be repaired with a tire plug (it's only a small kit, you can even use 2 or 3 plugs to repair quite a big hole).
    When I first started with tubeless, I had a big cut in my tire that went almost instantly flat, I took the wheel off, found the hole put it at the bottom and gave the wheel a good shake to slosh all the sealant into the cut. Pumped it up and rode about 3km before it aired down enough to need more air. gave it another good shake up, aired it up and was able to ride the remaining 7 km home. It actually didn't loose any more air, but I took it to my LBS and they put two plugs in it. I then started carrying plugs. The tire has done over 18 months with those plugs and it doesn't loose air. any more than the undamaged tire. On the outside of the tire the cut was nearly 15 to 20mm, but on the inside it was probably only about 3-4mm. It's pretty awesome what that sealant can do.


    You could still carry your repair kit, its not a big size and gives you options. I don't bother, so far I have got by with plugs and/ or a spare tube

    Unless you trail set up means you never get more than about 30 min walk from your car I would still carry the one smaller tube. You will also need tire levers. But loosing two tubes off your bike will get the weigh down to about 30lbs on this Argus. This will be the cheapest and most cost effective upgrade you can make to this bike.
    Not to mention the improved ride quality associated with tubeless and the ability to run lower pressures for snow and sand, without the danger of pinch flats.
    For a fatbike I would carry a pump rather than CO2 as its kinda one shot and the volume for a fully flat fat tire would mean multiple canisters. If its just to get you rolling again it doesn't have to be a huge pump, it just takes a little longer

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkside212 View Post

    to go tubeless you need:
    gorilla tape, a tubeless valve, sealant (home brew works great), and tubeless tires.
    Use 5" stretch wrap instead of Gorilla tape. Easier and lighter. If you have 80mm or less width rims, you don't need to overlap from side to side. A single pass 5 times centered works.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Where are the 2018 Mongoose Argus bikes at?-tubeless-stretch-wrap-setup.pdf  

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    Has anyone actually set up tubeless on this bikes stock wheel and rim combo?

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    Quote Originally Posted by MozFat View Post
    Has anyone actually set up tubeless on this bikes stock wheel and rim combo?

    Lol not yet. But we're working up to it!

    Thanks for all the info bros! I'm seeing tubeless conversion kits for around $60 bucks. does that sound right?

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    I hadn't seen the cling wrap/ almost split tube set up before..... You live and learn

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    This kit look any good?

    Orange seal seems to be more popular but this has some extras.
    https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F202042520981

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    Well first off I should say I had to get my front fork post mounts repared in order to ride it.

    Mongoose is shipping the front fork and rim out sometime near Mid June or July. They say it's the fastest they can do it.

    Going Tubeless In the *near* future.

    Recenty I rode some filthy muddy trails. I've really been itching to ride so I didn't mind it. it was an absolute blast the Argus comp killed it in my opinion. Not a ton of love from the other trail riders regarding the fat bike but I suspect jealously..

    Anyways I got 2 flats recently and both were an absolute nightmare. For flat 1, the tires were absolutely covered in wet mud and dry mud which made things really difficult. I recently restocked my bag with some "quick setting" cement. apparently I Didn't read the label well. it says it takes 5 minutes (to set), but *three hours to dry and 24 hours to handle*! Found this out after using half my can of bug spray and most of my clean towels to keep the tube clean the tube. I could not stop the mud and rocks from getting into my rim during the patch job!

    Needless to say I had to pull the tube and use the spare after the patch didn't take. My fault for not reading the label. (Yes I sanded and prepped the hole). The whole process should have taken only 10 minutes but ended up taking like 35-40 due to the mud and needing to redo. My goodness do these fat tires take some air! Hand pump took 10 minutes!

    For flat#2 almost the same deal with the mud.. Only this time my hand pump failed mid way.

    Thank goodness I ordered all my tubeless parts last week. The CO2 should help mitigate some time lost with hand pomps.


    I don't have the numbers in front of me but when I calculated the weight drop I am only saving about a little over a pound. Hopefully I'm wrong and I drop more weight but the gain here is time and hopefully not dealing with tubes or patching..

  66. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by mesa3077boogie View Post
    Sheeit, that's it? What kinda rides do you do with that?

    Heres my list 😲

    Frame bag contents: 2L water bladder, water bladder hose, water bladder hose insulator, 1 fat inner tube, 8 extra zip ties, 2 pair of socks (1 for cell phone, 1 for me), Neosporin, gauze, injury/hospital tape, chain lube, tire hand pump, locktight, inner tube pieces for flats, small scissors, rubber cement, sand paper, 3 folded paper towels, spare master link, spare chainring bolts, sun glasses, goggles (I wear one or the other)
    Total frame bag weight - 9lbs

    Seat bag contents: Allen wrench set, 15mm(?) pedal wrench, needle nose pliars, full can of aerosol bug spray, small cloth rag, master link breaker tool, full finger gloves, half finger gloves (I wear one or the other)
    Total seat bag weight - 3lbs

    Both bags total - 12lbs (yikes!)




    So what do you do for rips? Walk it back?



    You got a point but that still seems like quite the risk don't you think? These fat inner tubes blew my mind how big they are. Not to mention super heavy too (compared to standard or 26x2.5)
    My rides are pretty tame, but have exceeded 60 miles. I do carry a Chain Pup that includes chain tool, common hex sizes and spoke wrenches. In addition to CO2, I generally carry a mini-pump. Things like sunscreen and bug spray get put on before I ride. Water depends on the ride. I have never needed more than 2-24 oz water bottles although I do have a 32 oz Platypus that could be used on an unusually hot ride. Fortunately, in Wisconsin you are never too far from a tavern. (I carry some cash and a credit card for that)

    Now when hunting my list gets bigger, but that is mostly hunting gear, not bike gear.

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    Hello I have a question about setting up the tubeless.

    Is it mandatory that the edge of the tire needs to sit on top of the sealing tape?

    I ran the 2.88 Gorilla Tape down the center of the rim to seal the rim and rim strip etc. At this point the tape doesn't reach up to the side walls of the rim and there is about a half-inch gap on each side of the tape between the tape and the rim. This is due to the width of the rim being wider than the tape.

    When I put the tire on the rim there is a gap between the edge of the tire and the rim itself. In order for the there to be a snug fit prior to inflating, I would need to keep wrapping tape around the rim to fill the gap. I am okay with that I am just wondering if this is necessary.

  68. #68
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    ^^^ there are 11 pages of tubeless help here:

    http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/tub...827178-11.html

    You do want to the tape to go full width and ideally roll up the edge of the rims. Gorilla tape is heavy and can degrade long term with sealant. From what you describe you can expect a failure.

  69. #69
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    Finally ordered this bike last night.

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    Hey hey congrats!

    Any ETA?

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    Hello all!

    I setup tubeless on my 2018 mongoose argus comp and am having great success!

    I wanted to share with you my process as others (log home - congrats!) will probably be purchasing this same bike or have similar wheelsets.

    At the very bottom I added a parts and price list.

    And as usual I hope to insert pictures or add pictures (and even a video) to my Dropbox link. Sorry I have limited data and internet access.

    This is my first ever tubeless setup and it is on a fatbike.

    The rims are aluminum 100mm xposure brand* (generics) with larger than silver dollar cut outs. They have a squared off bead hook but it is not very deep.

    The tires are 4.9" Arison Big Fatty 26's. 140 TPI, max 20PSI. Their bead is not squared off but is pretty bulky and more triangular shaped than square.

    So basically Its the widest rims and fattest tires possible (that I know of) so I was mentally prepared for the challenge.

    I took my time over the course of a few evenings to assure I was doing everything proficiently.

    Here are my steps for setting up the wheels. I used to combination of methods from other threads and the thread above (read up until page 3).

    Trimmed the existing Rim strip to a width wide enough to cover the spoke nipples (about 4 mm more narrow than standard duct tape).

    Cut a strip of rubberish (vinyl?) black colored cabinet liner about the same width of the trimmed Rim strip and applied it around the rim strip. This helped to "fill the valley" in the center of the rim and served as a substitution for the foam other fat bikers mentioned in other threads. Secured it to the rim with a small strip of Gorilla Tape.

    Tightly stretched 2.88 Gorilla Tape over the rim strip. there is about a 1/2 inch on each side of the rim strip where the Gorilla Tape makes direct contact with the rim.

    There are four miniature holes on the inside of the rim. I filled those with rubber cement.

    Also filled/covered the rim seam with cement.

    I then ripped the Gorilla Tape to about 1 inch and wrapped the rim one time around on the edges. This helped flatten the rim profile across the center line as I didn't want to use additional vinyl or foam.

    I then cut some test pieces of vinyl in order to measure the width of the vinyl from end to end on the inside of the rim. This thick foamy vinyl will somewhat mirror the setup of a split tube only it will allow for some cushioning that the rim bead could sink and lock into.

    Once I found the correct width of vinyl I used a framing square to cut perfectly straight strips of vinyl.

    I then tightly wrapped the vinyl around the rim overlapping about 2 to 3 inches. About 1.5 inches back under the overlap, I smeared a wide 1 inch line of flexible clear drying Gorilla Glue to glue the vinyl "Rim strip" to itself. I then taped over the very edge of the overlap with Gorilla Tape I let this sit overnight.

    I then poked holes to install my black removable core valves.

    When sitting the tire over the rim there is noticeably less gap between the rim bead and rim itself now however there was still an adequate gap between the two.. I decided to not wrap additional tape or foam.

    Once the tire was installed over the rim I squirted 8 oz of orange seal into the rim.

    To pre inflate the rim I detached the hose on my Shop-Vac and connected it to the opposite side that exhales air out of the shop vac. Now I have a hose that is capable of blowing large amounts of air into the wheel. I aired up my air compressor and had that on standby. I touched the shop vac hose to the top of the rim basically at the bead line but on the outside of the wheel obviously. The Shop-Vac immediately inflated the tire causing the beads to touch the rim hook inside the rim. As soon as it touched I started to shoot air into the tire from my compressor and they inflated right up!

    Both tires had one 10 inch wide line of leaking sealant for about 10 seconds then stopped.

    The first night I ride they were over-inflated to 18 PSI and I lost 2 pounds of pressure over a 3 Mile neighborhood road ride. The first overnight they leaked about 5 pounds of air however no sealant leak.

    2 days ago I aired them back up to 16 PSI and went on a trail ride. After about five miles I checked the pressure and there was no* Loss so I voluntarily let the air out down to 14 PSI to make it more rideable. Normal trail pressure tubed for me 8 to 10 psi. I went to the bumpiest place I know of to shake up the sealant. Sherman Beach is a local river beech with mini boulders on the Rivershore that are a bit larger than your fist and the place is covered in clam shells. The extreme bumpiness I think really it helped move some sealant around. Finished up a 17 Mile trail ride and came home and checked the pressure and found I lost no PSI.

    Last night I rode 13 miles of bumpy, rocky, chipped toothy Trails (zombie, bluff view, bluff hollow, what up stl!) at 12 PSI and had no issues with leaking! So my ghetto tubeless on the non tubeless ready argus comp wheels is official!

    The tubeless feel is so much better than the tubes and the bike is definitely faster! Maybe 25-30% improvement in rolling feel.

    I don't know how to explain it because it's not like over-inflating the tires to make the bike roll faster, it's a bit different from that.. It feels like it's just transferring power more efficiently now.

    Below is a parts and price list for this project:

    Orange seal 16oz - ebay - $20.85

    Gorilla tape - walmart - $16

    2 tubeless removable core 36mm black colored valve stems - ebay $11.95

    5x 12gram threaded Co2 cartridges (too small but they'll do) - ebay $8.99

    Red zepplin Co2 inflator head - ebay $12.73

    20x pack Presta to Schrader valve adapters - ebay $6.26

    Roll if black Cabinet liner vinyl (gotta check if this is actually vinyl) - lowes - $8

    Rubber/vinyl/plastic bonding(for lack of a better term) flexible *Gorilla glue - Wal-Mart - $5
    * note this is not the "standard, Gorilla Glue

    Total $89.78

  72. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by Log Home View Post
    Finally ordered this bike last night.
    Tomorrow and hopefully with zero damage.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mesa3077boogie View Post
    Hello all!

    I setup tubeless on my 2018 mongoose argus comp and am having great success!

    I wanted to share with you my process as others (log home - congrats!) will probably be purchasing this same bike or have similar wheelsets.

    At the very bottom I added a parts and price list.

    And as usual I hope to insert pictures or add pictures (and even a video) to my Dropbox link. Sorry I have limited data and internet access.

    This is my first ever tubeless setup and it is on a fatbike.

    The rims are aluminum 100mm xposure brand* (generics) with larger than silver dollar cut outs. They have a squared off bead hook but it is not very deep.

    The tires are 4.9" Arison Big Fatty 26's. 140 TPI, max 20PSI. Their bead is not squared off but is pretty bulky and more triangular shaped than square.

    So basically Its the widest rims and fattest tires possible (that I know of) so I was mentally prepared for the challenge.

    I took my time over the course of a few evenings to assure I was doing everything proficiently.

    Here are my steps for setting up the wheels. I used to combination of methods from other threads and the thread above (read up until page 3).

    Trimmed the existing Rim strip to a width wide enough to cover the spoke nipples (about 4 mm more narrow than standard duct tape).

    Cut a strip of rubberish (vinyl?) black colored cabinet liner about the same width of the trimmed Rim strip and applied it around the rim strip. This helped to "fill the valley" in the center of the rim and served as a substitution for the foam other fat bikers mentioned in other threads. Secured it to the rim with a small strip of Gorilla Tape.

    Tightly stretched 2.88 Gorilla Tape over the rim strip. there is about a 1/2 inch on each side of the rim strip where the Gorilla Tape makes direct contact with the rim.

    There are four miniature holes on the inside of the rim. I filled those with rubber cement.

    Also filled/covered the rim seam with cement.

    I then ripped the Gorilla Tape to about 1 inch and wrapped the rim one time around on the edges. This helped flatten the rim profile across the center line as I didn't want to use additional vinyl or foam.

    I then cut some test pieces of vinyl in order to measure the width of the vinyl from end to end on the inside of the rim. This thick foamy vinyl will somewhat mirror the setup of a split tube only it will allow for some cushioning that the rim bead could sink and lock into.

    Once I found the correct width of vinyl I used a framing square to cut perfectly straight strips of vinyl.

    I then tightly wrapped the vinyl around the rim overlapping about 2 to 3 inches. About 1.5 inches back under the overlap, I smeared a wide 1 inch line of flexible clear drying Gorilla Glue to glue the vinyl "Rim strip" to itself. I then taped over the very edge of the overlap with Gorilla Tape I let this sit overnight.

    I then poked holes to install my black removable core valves.

    When sitting the tire over the rim there is noticeably less gap between the rim bead and rim itself now however there was still an adequate gap between the two.. I decided to not wrap additional tape or foam.

    Once the tire was installed over the rim I squirted 8 oz of orange seal into the rim.

    To pre inflate the rim I detached the hose on my Shop-Vac and connected it to the opposite side that exhales air out of the shop vac. Now I have a hose that is capable of blowing large amounts of air into the wheel. I aired up my air compressor and had that on standby. I touched the shop vac hose to the top of the rim basically at the bead line but on the outside of the wheel obviously. The Shop-Vac immediately inflated the tire causing the beads to touch the rim hook inside the rim. As soon as it touched I started to shoot air into the tire from my compressor and they inflated right up!

    Both tires had one 10 inch wide line of leaking sealant for about 10 seconds then stopped.

    The first night I ride they were over-inflated to 18 PSI and I lost 2 pounds of pressure over a 3 Mile neighborhood road ride. The first overnight they leaked about 5 pounds of air however no sealant leak.

    2 days ago I aired them back up to 16 PSI and went on a trail ride. After about five miles I checked the pressure and there was no* Loss so I voluntarily let the air out down to 14 PSI to make it more rideable. Normal trail pressure tubed for me 8 to 10 psi. I went to the bumpiest place I know of to shake up the sealant. Sherman Beach is a local river beech with mini boulders on the Rivershore that are a bit larger than your fist and the place is covered in clam shells. The extreme bumpiness I think really it helped move some sealant around. Finished up a 17 Mile trail ride and came home and checked the pressure and found I lost no PSI.

    Last night I rode 13 miles of bumpy, rocky, chipped toothy Trails (zombie, bluff view, bluff hollow, what up stl!) at 12 PSI and had no issues with leaking! So my ghetto tubeless on the non tubeless ready argus comp wheels is official!

    The tubeless feel is so much better than the tubes and the bike is definitely faster! Maybe 25-30% improvement in rolling feel.

    I don't know how to explain it because it's not like over-inflating the tires to make the bike roll faster, it's a bit different from that.. It feels like it's just transferring power more efficiently now.

    Below is a parts and price list for this project:

    Orange seal 16oz - ebay - $20.85

    Gorilla tape - walmart - $16

    2 tubeless removable core 36mm black colored valve stems - ebay $11.95

    5x 12gram threaded Co2 cartridges (too small but they'll do) - ebay $8.99

    Red zepplin Co2 inflator head - ebay $12.73

    20x pack Presta to Schrader valve adapters - ebay $6.26

    Roll if black Cabinet liner vinyl (gotta check if this is actually vinyl) - lowes - $8

    Rubber/vinyl/plastic bonding(for lack of a better term) flexible *Gorilla glue - Wal-Mart - $5
    * note this is not the "standard, Gorilla Glue

    Total $89.78
    Great update! Will these rims hold the tires on the bead tubeless at 2 PSI?

    If so, this bike may be the real deal on a low price fat bike that can be set up tubeless with 5" tires for beach or soft sand riding.

    Is the rear hub a 197x12 thru axle on this bike?
    Yukon Truck
    Novatec / Mulefut 80's
    Tsunami 4.9's

  74. #74
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    I almost bought the Sport version since Dick's Sporting Goods was having a sale and I live by beach, but ultimately decided against it. It seems pretty decent but I don't know where else I'd use it if it's not for riding on the beach.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Fithian View Post
    Great update! Will these rims hold the tires on the bead tubeless at 2 PSI?

    If so, this bike may be the real deal on a low price fat bike that can be set up tubeless with 5" tires for beach or soft sand riding.

    Is the rear hub a 197x12 thru axle on this bike?
    I'm not sure if they will be able to go that low and personally I am not willing to check due to the potential expense incurred..

    If I had to guess I would say probably not seeing that neither the rim or Tire are tubeless ready.. sorry I wish I could be more helpful here.

    The only other price and feature comparable Fat Bike I know that is tubeless ready out of the gate is the motobecane Sturgis.. if I liked the size medium frame geometry as much as I do the Argus comp I would have went with that bike. unfortunately the geometry of the sturgis looks too old school mountain bike on the angle between the top tube and seat stays in my opinion. The argus comp has a very long top tube and looks more modern with that long sloping top tube.

    Anyways, the lowest PSI, I am willing to go for the type of riding I do is probably 7 PSI. that I can maybe report back after a few weeks of riding at 10 and 12 PSI to assure no other issues with my new set up.

    Yes the rear is 197 12 mm thru axle.
    Last edited by mesa3077boogie; 06-07-2018 at 11:53 AM. Reason: Forgot to answer a question

  76. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Fithian View Post
    Great update! Will these rims hold the tires on the bead tubeless at 2 PSI?

    If so, this bike may be the real deal on a low price fat bike that can be set up tubeless with 5" tires for beach or soft sand riding.

    Is the rear hub a 197x12 thru axle on this bike?
    Mongoose site says 190 thru axle. YouTube video confirms thru axle.

  77. #77
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    Are the hubs/rims 32 hole?
    Yukon Truck
    Novatec / Mulefut 80's
    Tsunami 4.9's

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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueCheesehead View Post
    Mongoose site says 190 thru axle. YouTube video confirms thru axle.
    The 2018 mongoose dealer book also confirms 190mm. My bad!

  79. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Fithian View Post
    Are the hubs/rims 32 hole?
    Mongoose | Argus Comp

    Counting spokes, 9 groups of 4 = 36

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    Quote Originally Posted by Log Home View Post
    Tomorrow and hopefully with zero damage.
    You order any extras or just the bike?

    Speaking of damages I should have my replacement fork and rim any day now

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    What's the sizing like on these bikes? I've been looking at the geometry and it seems they have a short reach but really high stack. I normally ride a Large in both a 29er and a 27.5 bu no idea what sizing is like on a fat bike.

  82. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by matadorCE View Post
    What's the sizing like on these bikes? I've been looking at the geometry and it seems they have a short reach but really high stack. I normally ride a Large in both a 29er and a 27.5 bu no idea what sizing is like on a fat bike.
    Go here and navigate to page 61 for the sizing:

    https://issuu.com/mongoosebikes/docs...d97c604194dc9a

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    Quote Originally Posted by mesa3077boogie View Post
    You order any extras or just the bike?

    Speaking of damages I should have my replacement fork and rim any day now
    A Joe Blow Fat Bike floor pump also but it's not coming until Monday.

    Did your bike have any scratches or damage to the paint of the frame straight out of the box?
    Last edited by Log Home; 06-08-2018 at 09:57 AM.

  84. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by mesa3077boogie View Post
    Go here and navigate to page 61 for the sizing:

    https://issuu.com/mongoosebikes/docs...d97c604194dc9a
    Thanks for the link but I had already found the geometry, my question is what size did people actually buy. Just by looking at the geometry charts compared to my current bikes, the reach and top tube on a Large is way short but the stack is high.

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    New toy has arrived in perfect condition with no damage at all.

    Where are the 2018 Mongoose Argus bikes at?-comp02.jpgWhere are the 2018 Mongoose Argus bikes at?-comp01.jpg

  86. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by Log Home View Post
    New toy has arrived in perfect condition with no damage at all.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Hey that bike looks familiar! Glad it's in great condition too.

    What are your first impressions? Is it as pretty as you thought it would be?

    Is it heavier or lighter than you imagined it would be?

    Let us know after you go Shred It Up.

    Oh I forgot to tell you. Those black cable clips come off real easy so bring zip ties!

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    I was surprised that it did not have quick release axles. Much lighter than last years blue Argus comp bike that I had. Only had the chance to put it together and that's about it for the day. Love the looks of this bike.

  88. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by Log Home View Post
    I was surprised that it did not have quick release axles. Much lighter than last years blue Argus comp bike that I had. Only had the chance to put it together and that's about it for the day. Love the looks of this bike.
    Thru axles are more state of the art than quick release. Just toss a allen wrench in your saddle bag and you will be good to go.

  89. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueCheesehead View Post
    Thru axles are more state of the art than quick release. Just toss a allen wrench in your saddle bag and you will be good to go.
    maybe he means quick release thru axle?

  90. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueCheesehead View Post
    Thru axles are more state of the art than quick release. Just toss a allen wrench in your saddle bag and you will be good to go.
    Yes, my blue comp has quick release thru axles.

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    Tubeless update: Punctures and another ripped side wall!

    First some questions then the story..

    Apologies if you are seeing this twice. I may also be posting similar questions in a separate thread to try and get some quick answers.

    Background: ghetto tubeless on a 2018 mongoose argus comp with stock wheels using vinyl cabinet liner vinyl for the padding and spacing and gorilla tape for the initial seal. Sealed on the first try last week. Road about 40 to 50 miles so far with no issues. Neither tire or rim is tubeless ready. 4.9" 140 TPI ARISUN big fatty 26 tires. 100mm exposure rims with big holes.

    I need to remove the tire completely to stitch another side wall, patch it and patch a puncture from today's ride.

    Questions:
    1) Are there any precautions when pouring out the existing Orange seal into a container for recycling it back into the wheel when I'm done later?

    2) Should I clean all of the existing or potentially dried orange seal completely off the rim and around valve or is it okay and/or advised to leave some? I'm thinking that the overlapped bead hook (per my method) needs to be clean and of course the inside of the tire where I need to patch it.

    3) I'm sure there is build up around the valve stem but I kind of want to keep that as is. What do you think does that need to be clean and redone as well?

    I haven't taken the tire off yet but I'm nervous of what it looks like on the inside and to have to redo it since things went so perfectly last week..

    4) I have no orange seal available to me or at any LBS. I only currently own and have access to some green slime. There is stans available but I can't do a $35 LBS premium this week.. I think I need to use at least 1 to 2 oz of slime mixed with orange seal to get things back up to a full eight ounces. Is it ok to mix these sealants?

    /////////
    Ok here is the story.
    I was 13 miles into some mountainous jagged rock and dirt trails riding at about 11 PSI. I started feeling some wetness hit my face.* my sweat doesn't usually shoot up from my torso and hit my chin, cheeks and face so I thought, hmmm that's funny.. And kept riding.* I don't remember rain in the forecast. A few minutes later I looked down and noticed someone vandalized my bike and splattered pink ish orange paint all over it! Hmmm, I haven't left it* anywhere except the top of my truck for a few minutes at the gas station but I didn't notice any Shenanigans taking place while I was filling up.. I then heard the intermittent hissing sound of a puncture trying to be sealed by sealant while riding. Looking down I see a 5 mm gash smack dab in the center of my front wheel!*On every upward rotation of the tire, my orange seal would shoot out 5 feet in the air LOL! That explains it.

    This was my first picture with the new tubeless setup so I was trying to think back to everything I read and watched as I had no resource or person to bounce some questions off of in this "oh shit!" moment. I don't remember anyone telling me how long it should take to seal up* but I was assuming that's dependent on the size of the puncture, the PSI, size of the tire, weight of the rider, Etc. I still freaked out despite having having half an 8oz bottle of green slime, a hand pump, 4 co2 cartridges and a tube. I honestly just didn't want to deal with it and was nervous the orange seal would not work to seal a 5 mm gash in my massive Tires.

    Everytime I would put the punctured part of the tire at the bottom of the wheel the air would stop leaking, so that's good at least something was happening.. I bounced it and shook it for about 10 minutes and just decided to start ridng again because every few test spins some air and orange seal would still escape. About another mile up the trail I ran into a few other tubeless riders who advised me to just wait it out and keep bouncing it every few minutes keeping the hole on the bottom.

    So I hung out with them at the top of the mountain during their break and chatted it up about riding, my Argus comp and the other pretentious douche bags currently on the trail.. And boy they were out today! In hanging with these riders I finally got some love for the Argus comp. There was a few "wow that's really nice, bet that set you back a pretty penny!" type comments (coming from guys whose bikes start at like $3000.00 ..?) Surprised to hear that I assured them it's not anything worth taking an insurance policy out on but I am definitely happy with it overall.

    Anyways, even after 15 more minutes of waiting and occasional bouncing there was still a slow leak of air and sealant. I decided to just leave and chance it. I rode soft over the jagged terrain then normal over the dirt. The leak finally subsided on the downhill. When done I found I only lost about 3 PSI total which was plenty to buy me time to ride back. I think the key to sealing was to actually just to give it a few shakes and actually ride it to let the sealant work. Which is what you do to set it up in the first place (duh) , and not necessarily to just wait and bounce. Of course a larger puncture that is not plugged would not permit rapid riding. The size of my puncture definitely should have had a plug but I forgot to bring them and my point to you is that orange seal sealed it anyway without a plug!!

    I made it back 10 miles with no issues with sealing or leaking but I want a patch behind it the puncture.

    I also found that I slashed my side wall *again*, luckily a different tire this time, hence the questions above about how to handle the sealant for reuse.

    So there goes my night, sewing up the wheel and setting back up the tubeless maybe the day after all the glues dry.

    Cheers and thanks in advance for chiming in on my questions.

  92. #92
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    I would imagine the problem started at "ghetto tubeless" and "the rims and tires are not tubeless ready...." Also, the tires are probably not the highest quality, as you are now finding out...

    I don't run tubeless, so I can't really help you with that, but it seems like the results were bound to happen given the starting parameters...

    I am not trying to hate, but the whole thing seems sketch to me
    " ...the moonlit swamp Krampus is a king among bikes." - geraldooka

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    mesa,

    There are no real precautions you need to take to salvage sealant. I simply remove the tire carefully and then pour the sealant out of the tire into a container. Depending on how long the sealant has been in the tire there may not be much "skin" built up. You will have to clean whatever there is from the areas you will be patching. Clean tire and rim beads are important too.

    I usually clean my inner rim, but it is not critical as long as it is clean where the tire bead meets the rim.

    Both Stans and Orange seal are latex based so you should be able to mix.

    A plug kit might be a good thing to add to your saddle bag to help with larger punctures.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sXeXBMXer View Post
    I would imagine the problem started at "ghetto tubeless" and "the rims and tires are not tubeless ready...." Also, the tires are probably not the highest quality, as you are now finding out...

    I don't run tubeless, so I can't really help you with that, but it seems like the results were bound to happen given the starting parameters...

    I am not trying to hate, but the whole thing seems sketch to me
    The questions I have would apply whether I am running ghetto tubeless or tubeless compatible.

    My questions are regarding cleaning out the rim, reusing and replacing fluid and wether or not I should mix up to 2 oz of slime to the orange seal after patching a puncture and sliced side wall.

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    Oops, I see you are thinking of adding Slime. While it is probably okay, it does not work very well on it's own. I would just the salvaged Orange Seal and live with a lesser amount.

  96. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by mesa3077boogie View Post
    The questions I have would apply whether I am running ghetto tubeless or tubeless compatible.

    My questions are regarding cleaning out the rim, reusing and replacing fluid and wether or not I should mix up to 2 oz of slime to the orange seal after patching a puncture and sliced side wall.
    right, and I still wonder if that will solve the problem given the parameters I mentioned...especially the tires.

    the fun thing about bikes is the experimentation. Work a system until you get it to where you want it, and learn things along the way!! If it works, it is not "wrong"...some things are easier than others, thought, given the right tools/equipment.
    " ...the moonlit swamp Krampus is a king among bikes." - geraldooka

    15 Surly Krampus
    LET IT SNOW!

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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueCheesehead View Post
    Mongoose | Argus Comp

    Counting spokes, 9 groups of 4 = 36
    So no way to lace up a Mulefüt or Blizzerk 32 hole rim to these hubs.
    Yukon Truck
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    Have you guys found any gotchas that would make upgrades and maintenance more difficult that it should be? For example, on my last bike the dropouts are narrower than usual, and the lower headset cup a diameter that seems to be exclusive to this bike, and the brake is mounted in a location that obstructs attaching a rear rack. I don't even know where I'd get a replacement derailleur hanger, so I'll start there. Does this one still appear to be the correct hanger for the current Argus Comp? The pictures I'm finding online makes it looks like it has changed.

    https://bicyclepartsdirect.com/derai...hanger-94.html

    It has upper attachments for a rear rack, but I haven't seen the lower attachments on the brake side. Is there a good unobstructed attachment point there for a rear rack?

  99. #99
    mtbr member
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    mesa3077boogie, You using the stock seat?

    That thing kills my butt

  100. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Fithian View Post
    So no way to lace up a Mulefüt or Blizzerk 32 hole rim to these hubs.
    One could re-drill the rims.

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