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  1. #1
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    wheel weight - what you got and whatsit weigh ?

    got a sandman gobi - its about 32lbs ...



    12lbs of that is the wheels!!

    they are arctic cycles 100mm drilled on XT rear and sun ringle 165mm with a larry and endomorph

    bike is stable but i cant help but think A there is alot of weight to be lost in the wheels and B it would be much more versatile with the lighter narrower rim(and gears) - i dont really need the float of a 100mm rim.(or do i and i just dont know it yet ?)

    what wheel set up have you got and what do they weigh and how do they perform on snow and bog? thinking of downsizing to 70 or 80mm rims.

  2. #2
    Fat!Drunk!Slow!
    Reputation: JordyB's Avatar
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    Quickest way to loose wheel weight is in the tubes. What are you running?

  3. #3
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    So Im running Flattop 80's with SRAM X7 hubs and aluminum nips:
    Front 1382gm
    Rear 1622gm
    (includes the rim strip)

    Bontrager 2.5-2.8 tubes at 300gm each
    Larry tires at 1500gm each

    So do the math, those damn tires while I dig them need to go on a diet!

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trail_rat View Post
    got a sandman gobi - its about 32lbs ...



    12lbs of that is the wheels!!
    I have over 12 # of wheels using way lighter parts, V!Z rims at 584g each, Custom hubs at just under 500g for the pair, light double butted spokes, 275g tubes, XTR Cassette, 120 TPI Larry's and light rotors. Did you include cassette and rotors in your weight? My winter wheels with similar build except drilled out Fat Shebas are pushing 14#.

  5. #5
    Cheesiest
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    I don't have a direct measurement, but from the weightweenies' listing my wheelset comes to about 2600g (Hope SS hubs/snowcat rims/regular spokes). It's not a super-bling wheelset, but gets the job done.

    For tires and tubes, I'm running Larry/Endo combo with QBP 2.75" tubes. I could drill out the rims, but I sort of like the look undrilled.

    Tires are definitely beastly. I wonder if kevlar beads would work. They might blow off of rims too easily. I would imagine a lighter weight casing would work for snow-specific tires, but would probably be trashed in the dirt.

  6. #6
    CAMBA Creature.
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    I'm in!

    Stock 2011 Salsa Mukluk - 17" Medium. - With - CatEye Enduro 8 computer - Salsa Flip-Lock QR seatpost collar - Salsa leather chainstay protector.
    Bike: w/o pedals - 35.34 lbs. / 16.03 kg
    Pedals: Shimano PD-M324 - 1.22 lbs. / 550 g

    Wheels... Stock (slightly dirty)
    Front: Vicious Cycles Graceful Fat Sheba 80mm rims - Surly Larry tire - Surly Tube - Surly New Disc hub - DT Swiss Competition, Double-Butted, 2.0/1.8mm spokes (32) - DT Swiss brass nipples. Avid BB7 160 rotor, Salsa skewers.
    Weight: 8.79 lbs. / 3.990 kg.

    Rear: Vicious Cycles Graceful Fat Sheba 80mm rims - Surly Larry tire - Surly tube - Salsa Mukluk 170mm Rear Disc Hub by Formula - DT Swiss Competition, Double-Butted, 2.0/1.8mm spokes (32) - DT Swiss brass nipples - Avid BB7 160 rotor. Shimano HG-50 12-36 Cassette, Salsa skewers.
    Weight: 9.98 lbs. / 4.520 kg.

    Holy Cats!!! 18.77 pounds of wheels!!! More than half the weight of the bike is from the wheels.
    I knew The GFS rims were used to keep the cost down, being the cheapest fat rims out there, and they might also be the heaviest 80mm rim out there too.
    That said, I don't plan on getting new wheels unless something breaks.
    Pardon me... I'm going out to build a big Mukluk jump in the back yard....
    Last edited by KrateKraig; 08-16-2011 at 10:10 PM.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by KrateKraig View Post
    Holy Cats!!! 18.77 pounds of wheels!!! More than half the weight of the bike is from the wheels.
    I knew The GFS rims were used to keep the cost down, being the cheapest fat rims out there, and they might also be the heaviest 80mm rim out there too.
    That said, I don't plan on getting new wheels unless something breaks.
    Pardon me... I'm going out to build a big Mukluk jump in the back yard....
    You could save 300 grams per wheel by drilling the Fat Shebas and potentially about the same by going to lighter tubes (if you have the original Surly tubes). That doesn't cost much and loses almost 2.9 pounds. Might not want to launch that big jump after you drill out the rims though.

  8. #8
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    might just stick gears on first - add weight but improve versatility - till they freeze up ! 1x9 !

    come winter ill probably wish for my 100mm rims back

    lighter tubes could be a winner - have a maxxis freeride 2.5 tube ill stick that in one and get another - should make a bit of difference.

    no rotors or cassette i believe - since they are not in that photo !

  9. #9
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    oh one other thing - anyone got a weight for the rims there seems to be very little info on the interweb on them - i aquired them as part of a second hand deal.

    arctic cycles 100mm drilled rims

  10. #10
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    Oh yeah,,, I forgot to answer the performance question...

    These wheels perform quite well on snow and sand, but I haven't ridden anything else to compare with.

    I have gone a few rides with a lot of Pugsleys with Large Marge (65mm) rims, and it didn't seem like I was able to ride anything that the narrow rimmed Pugs couldn't ride. Rider skill most likely plays a bigger part in being able to ride tough terrain.
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  11. #11
    Frt Range, CO
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    My not-so-stock Pugs weighs 39.51 lbs with an Alfine8, Thudbuster ST, Sefas saddle, FU bars, PD-324 pedals, lightweight toobs, SKS frt fender and 120tpi Larry tires.

    Front wheel: 8.33 lbs ( DH LM 32H rim, light toob, 120tpi Larry, DT 3x spokes, Deore hub, no cogs and 180mm Roundagon brake rotor)

    Rear Wheel: 11.38 lbs ( DH LM 36H rim, light toob, 120tpi Larry, DT 2x spokes, Alfine 8, 180mm Shimano rotor)

  12. #12
    Dr Gadget is IN
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    Quote Originally Posted by KrateKraig View Post
    Oh yeah,,, I forgot to answer the performance question...

    These wheels perform quite well on snow and sand, but I haven't ridden anything else to compare with.

    I have gone a few rides with a lot of Pugsleys with Large Marge (65mm) rims, and it didn't seem like I was able to ride anything that the narrow rimmed Pugs couldn't ride. Rider skill most likely plays a bigger part in being able to ride tough terrain.
    I rode last weekend with a friend who recently got a Pugsley complete. He had adjusted his tire pressures for soft sand/gravel arroyo riding, but had to run much lower pressures (judged by sidewall deflection) than I did with my 100's adjusted for the same conditions. Theoretically that means that I had easier rolling on the trails since neither one of us adjusted pressure for the whole ride. I note that we made very similar width tracks in places where we could see our tread prints.
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

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