What is The Best Cheap Fatbike?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    What is The Best Cheap Fatbike?

    I would say I have been 'serious' trail riding for 2 or 3 years, but have always ridden bikes. More and more lately I have been looking at fat bikes, but I don't want to go broke getting one. What if I don't like it after a month, you know? So I started trying to find a cheap fat bike. I found saw the mongoose dolomite online next to the headline "Best cheap fatbike etc ( https://mountainbikeheart.com/best-c...alue-fat-bike/ ) but is it worth it? What do you think?

    Also, I have been looking at the Gravity Bullseye Monster. Which I read about here ( https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/gravity-bullseye-monster-920263-25.html ) Which is a bit more expensive, but is SUCH a big difference that I'd be silly buying the dolomite.

    Has anyone got any preferences between the 2 bikes?

  2. #2
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    For the cost of the Gravity Bullseye, you could get a Fuji Wendigo, like the one I own. Some online dealers are selling Fuji Wendigo 2.3 for around $550. This comes with higher quality components, and much better tires. I own myself Fuji Wendigo 2.1

  3. #3
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    Mongoose Dolomite is trash. It weights 48 pounds!!!. It uses the same derailuer systerm, and chains as walmart department store kids bikes. For $299, instead you could buy from COSTCO, a aluminum Northrock XC00,but warning the derailuer is also cheap 7-speed! But it weighs 35 pounds as oppose to crappy 48 pounds.
    If you are looking for maximum cheap bikes-get the costco
    If you want value- Get The Fuji Wendigo

  4. #4
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    If you get a cheap POS fat bike, you'll be riding a cheap POS fat bike, and you'll likely hate riding a cheap POS fat bike, so you may end up hating riding Fat Bike, and then you'll be trying to sell off a cheap POS fat bike.

    I like my Dolomite, but I had to carefully upgrade parts to make it tolerable at a worthwhile price. And you need to clean out the bearings before you ride it or you'll most likely trash them. Plus some other surprises, like bending the BB crank if you're a Clyde or like punching it, and same for the rear axle. But wait, there's more! See the Dolomite thread. If you fix everything, the money you'll spend could have got you a somewhat rideable fat bike. DON'T buy someone's Dolomite that they trashed because they rode it before cleaning hubs and BB before riding it, or bending the normally non-bending parts.

    Used is a common recommendation. The depreciation has already happened so you lose little if you decide to sell.

    Do see the 2nd sticky thread, Under $1,000.

    If you can afford it, that Costco Northrock fat bike is a much better value, as most of what you need to fix/upgrade on a Dolo or its ilk is already upgraded to rideable. Cheapest upgrade you'll ever find. But apparently it uses some odd sized components, so it has limited upgradeability.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  5. #5
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    Framed has some pretty decent low-end models, and they go on sale too.
    Enjoy the ride!

  6. #6
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    there's a whole thread dedicated to this topic here:

    https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/fa...ks-937739.html
    Mike
    Toronto, Canada
    2017 Trek Farley 9.6
    2017 Diamondback Haanjo Trail Carbon
    2016 Scott Solace 10 Disc

  7. #7
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    I won't recommend a particular bike, but there are some features I gravitate toward:
    Gear range - my fatbike must have some low gears. I currently have a 22-36 (0.61 ratio) low gear. High is 36-11. I especially like the wide gear range when I run 29x3" wheels.
    Tires - my fatbike must fit at least 26x4.8 tires for some real snow rides. A lot of people get by with less, depending on your snow.
    I like a high bottom bracket.
    A low(er) standover is preferred, but I'm 6'-3" so it's 2ndary.
    I prefer thru-axles, but you might have to get into the $900's to get those. A 150mm front (and tapered head tube) makes it compatible with fat suspension forks. Otherwise you may be "confined" to rigid, or need a wheel if you decide you *need* a suspension fork.
    Hopefully that gets you thinkin'.

    -F
    It's never easier - you just go faster.

  8. #8
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    I would look for a good used Fat Bike.

    I have a Surly ICT OPS.

    I have beat the hell out of it, lots of scratches and the paint never looks good even after washing it.

    It isn't much to look at and if I was going to sell it I would probably only ask $500 to $750. Still better than a cheapo.

    over the years I have replace the cog set, bottom bracket, front derailer, bottom bracket and headset. I didn't upgrade any of that stuff, just wore it out. Not to mention too many chains to remember and been through about 4 sets of tires.

    I probably am approaching 12K miles on it and to look at it you can almost see everyone.

    Look used, and look past the paint/scratches. With all the new parts and after a tune up at the LBS it still rides as nice as the day I got it. It just looks like I road it through WWII.

  9. #9
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    There's no such thing as a cheap fatbike that is any good as it comes from the shop.

    The expensive part of a fatbike is the tyres. Good fatbike tyres are not cheap - check the prices. You want the tyre to be as supple as possible otherwise it's going to feel like you're towing sandbags - on if you're training to tow sandbags, but no fun at all.

    It's better to buy a decent secondhand fatbike because it is likely to have decent tyres, and they don't wear out very quickly.
    As little bike as possible, as silent as possible.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Donald Pikachu View Post
    For the cost of the Gravity Bullseye, you could get a Fuji Wendigo, like the one I own. Some online dealers are selling Fuji Wendigo 2.3 for around $550. This comes with higher quality components, and much better tires. I own myself Fuji Wendigo 2.1
    Cool, yeah I just went and checked out the Fuji Wendigo 2.3, like you said. Could be a good option too.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Donald Pikachu View Post
    Mongoose Dolomite is trash. It weights 48 pounds!!!. It uses the same derailuer systerm, and chains as walmart department store kids bikes. For $299, instead you could buy from COSTCO, a aluminum Northrock XC00,but warning the derailuer is also cheap 7-speed! But it weighs 35 pounds as oppose to crappy 48 pounds.
    If you are looking for maximum cheap bikes-get the costco
    If you want value- Get The Fuji Wendigo
    Nice. This guy i kinda know hit me up on Facebook and he's got one of the Mongoose Dolimites. He's gonna let me have it for a couple days, so that will be good.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by ronhextall View Post
    I would look for a good used Fat Bike.

    I have a Surly ICT OPS.

    I have beat the hell out of it, lots of scratches and the paint never looks good even after washing it.

    It isn't much to look at and if I was going to sell it I would probably only ask $500 to $750. Still better than a cheapo.

    over the years I have replace the cog set, bottom bracket, front derailer, bottom bracket and headset. I didn't upgrade any of that stuff, just wore it out. Not to mention too many chains to remember and been through about 4 sets of tires.

    I probably am approaching 12K miles on it and to look at it you can almost see everyone.

    Look used, and look past the paint/scratches. With all the new parts and after a tune up at the LBS it still rides as nice as the day I got it. It just looks like I road it through WWII.
    Snapping chains, eeesh.. hate the sound of that. That's ptretty much what I'm after, though, something I can trash and not feel precious about haha.

  13. #13
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    ^^^ I have found snapped chains are largely a function of not being in the proper gear and applying too much force while in the small chainring, not a cheap chain. A 22T chainring allows one to put much more tension on a chain than a 36T for example.

  14. #14
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    I am not snapping chains. The LBS uses a tool when I bring it in to see if its time for a new one. Saves the cogs a little bit. I get about two a year. I do carry my last used one as an emergency replacement.

  15. #15
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    IMHO

    The lowest price Trek Farley. [actual decent bike, not a BSO]

    aside from that... bikesdirect (just one level above BSO)
    "Put your seatbelt back on or get out and sit in the middle of that circle of death." - Johnny Scoot

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