Want to drill my RD's- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Want to drill my RD's

    Getting ready to drill out my Daryl's and I am not too sure what is the largest I can go. 1.5" seems pretty big. I am about 175 lbs. and started using my Muk as my main ride. Anyone think that's too big?

    Jason

  2. #2
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    I went 1.5 inch on a set of Fat Shebas and now I did some Darryls the same way. My Darryls ended up at about 760 grams each. I weigh about the same as you do.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Want to drill my RD's-drilled-darryl.jpg  

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  3. #3
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    Oh yeah if you do it buy one of these (deburing tool), they run about 6 bucks and will take you about a minute to debur the rim.
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  4. #4
    superluker
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    Do you drill the rims before or after they are built?

  5. #5
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    What drill bit do you use?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by taehome View Post
    Do you drill the rims before or after they are built?
    I drill before I build but I know someone with a Muk that did a built set. He said it went fine but he had to re-tension them again. I use a template I made that goes off of the nipple holes.

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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by mttklmhifi1 View Post
    What drill bit do you use?
    I use a 1 1/2 " hole saw and thanks Nobby your thread is why I decided to drill my RD instead of buying them that way, they are lighter plus it saved a few $.

  9. #9
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    i've done 2 sets of built up wheels that came on our muk3s.

    i weigh 220lbs kitted up and i went 1.25" for myself and 1.5" for the girlfriend but she weighs 130lbs.

    i made a template using flexible plastic sheet and 2 cut down framing nails to run from unused spoke hole to unused spoke hole, divided the distantace and used an automatic centre punch to mark the hole. Predrilled and then hole saw on the drillpress, less walking/faster .....

    i used the burr remover pictured above and had to retension all of the wheels.

    i have 80km on mine so far on partially frozen single and double track with some rooty/rocky sections. i have been riding it like my full suspension bike, hitting small 1-2ft drops and looking for a bit of air off of terrain features and the wheels seem fine so far.

  10. #10
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    I did my GFS wheels built, using a bench drill press with a 1.5" hole saw and a home made jig to hold the wheel steady and high enough up from the floor so the drill would reach. Bolted the drill press base to my bench backwards as the overhand of the press wasn't outward enough for the hub to clear it. I used a Dremel with a mini drum sander bit to deburr the holes. Wheel tension seems fine and I've been out beating on them - they are holding up great.

  11. #11
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    Thanks guys for posting this. I am looking to do this as well.

  12. #12
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    To anyone who drilled already built wheels. Did the rim come out of true or need to be re-tensioned after?

  13. #13
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    Only minor truing needed after I drilled my built GFS wheelset. If you use a handheld drill be careful not to catch a spoke when the holesaw breaks through the rim. The dremel with mini sanding drum worked well for me too, although I did go through quite a few drums.

  14. #14
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    mine didn't need to be retensioned, i've found i've had better luck with drilling them after they are built



    i bought a set of drilled RD and then drilled 3/4" holes in the spoke holes i didn't use for lacing, i haven't finished cleaning up the holes yet and save 185g off the set

    i also drilled out the original valve hole.....



    , and moved the new valve hole to right next to the seam

    Last edited by lamard; 12-07-2011 at 02:51 PM. Reason: added visual refererance
    your 29er may float over roots and rocks, but my superlight 26 just plain floats

  15. #15
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    I just did my Muk 3 wheels this past weekend. I did them already built and had no problems, just some light tensioning of some spokes after drilling. I went with 1" holes for the fact that I ride hard and didn't want to take a chance of folding a rim. The rims are already flimsy enough before I put holes in the rim. I used a hand drill for the pilot holes and for the 1" hole. Burned up one old hand drill and had smoke coming out of another, but they got the job done. I did all my measuring with a caliper and then used a center punch to mark my pilot hole. All in all they turned out great and it only cost me some time because I already had the supplies and I saved some money to boot.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Want to drill my RD's-muk1.jpg  

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  16. #16
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    Are your rims holding up well? I like your drill pattern and have thought of doing that with my RDs.

  17. #17
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    Thanks to the contributors in this thread and others (esp vikb, the LazyRando),

    I picked up offset GFS rims for $30 each, and drilled 1/2 lb of metal out of each. End results: 930gm and 880gm finished weights. It took a while, and made a mess, but the results look great. I used a 10" drill press and a crude jig (did the job, though). Lots of 3-in-1 oil. I used the $6 deburring tool mentioned by you guys, and it worked out fine.


    Responds to gravity

  18. #18
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    I've got some Fat Shebas that I'm thinking of drilling. When I built the wheel, I stopped at 100 kgf spoke tension. What spoke tension are you guys running undrilled and drilled?

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sasquatch1413 View Post
    I've got some Fat Shebas that I'm thinking of drilling. When I built the wheel, I stopped at 100 kgf spoke tension. What spoke tension are you guys running undrilled and drilled?
    There has been a big variance from different posters on this topic but I run mine at 90kg or less. This advise came from a dude you has built more fat wheels than most. So far it has worked like a charm on three different sets.

  20. #20
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    I finish drilling my rims a few minutes ago.

    To make it all align I build this simple jig, using a piece of MDF as a base (what I have in the scrap pile) and then four pieces of 2 by 4, two to hold the rim in place, two to hold the jig firmly to the drill table.


    It work great, even with a few pilot holes that where a little off center.

    View from the bottom.


    Ps: if anybody in Salt Lake city need to drill rims I be more than happy to loan you my drill press, hole saws and jig.

  21. #21
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    I also drilled My GFS rims. I made a how to in the mechanics section of another site, but since the how seems to be somewhat covered, here's some additional shots of how its done.

    The template was made using a caliper by measuring the difference between the two spoke holes, the offset and dividing in half to center it.


    I traced the inner curve onto a block of wood and cut it on the band saw and sanded it on the belt sander and then drilled a big hole for the blanks to fall into.


    MAKE SURE you clean the setup after each hole with an airgun, never slide it to the next spot!




  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by roobydoo View Post
    I also drilled My GFS rims. I made a how to in the mechanics section of another site, but since the how seems to be somewhat covered, here's some additional shots of how its done.
    Is very interesting to see the different approach people take to accomplish the same results, yours is very nice..

  23. #23
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    Think the drilled will hold up to clydes?

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post
    Think the drilled will hold up to clydes?
    So far my impression of the abuse they have taken is yes, I would ride them with heavier loads. Many people here have pannier bags all over their bikes for camping and still run drilled rims.
    As with all things, depends on what you expect to do with the bike. If you've seen the videos of a granny bike being used for trials hopping and dropping, it's amazing the abuse a bike can take!

  25. #25
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    Hey;

    Nice setup Roob. Wish you could do it like that with the spokes in!
    Most people ply the Well Trodden Path. A few seek a different way, and leave a Trail behind.
    - John Hajny, a.k.a. TrailMaker

  26. #26
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    I drill one of the big holes where the valve stem usually go and I plan to drill a new valve hole near the welded seam (yes I know the rim will be a little un balance) also I plan to go tubeless right away and I think a schrader valve from a motorcycle innertube will be better to inject the goo than a presta.

    What is the consensus of the group, presta or schrader for tubeless

  27. #27
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    HAs anyone used a Greenlee punch to drill rims?

    I don't want to fight a built wheel onto my drill press, and I thought maybe I'd bust out my set of punches. They work great on steel, but usually in flat conditions (not contoured like a rim).

    Is there a reason not to do this?

    Thanks
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  28. #28
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    Mirror polished.

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  30. #30
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    I'll say it again, AC/BC: Outstanding!

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by cendres View Post
    i'll say it again, ac/bc: Outstanding!
    +1.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by cendres View Post
    i'll say it again, ac/bc: Outstanding!
    wow +3

  33. #33
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    Douple post stupid smartphones

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stockli Boy View Post
    I don't want to fight a built wheel onto my drill press, and I thought maybe I'd bust out my set of punches. They work great on steel, but usually in flat conditions (not contoured like a rim).

    Is there a reason not to do this?

    Thanks
    EDIT:
    I talked to tech support at Greenlee about this. The very helpful gentleman there felt like the rim would distort as the punch was pulled into the rim material. This is due to the convex shape of the rim being only partially supported by the die on the backside. It could work, but I'm not betting on it. Bummer.
    Last edited by cendres; 12-27-2012 at 09:42 AM.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stockli Boy View Post
    I don't want to fight a built wheel onto my drill press, and I thought maybe I'd bust out my set of punches. They work great on steel, but usually in flat conditions (not contoured like a rim).

    Is there a reason not to do this?

    Thanks
    There is no need to use a drill press if it's too big of a hassle. I used a regular drill with a handle extension. Clamped it to a table. Easy.

    Also, if you have a drill press, drill from the outside with the whole wheel sitting on the press table. If you can't get the table low enough, just put the wheel on the ground or something like that.

    I wouldn't use the punch. It may want to distort the rim a little bit. Hole saws are the way to go fo sho.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by EPcycles View Post
    There is no need to use a drill press if it's too big of a hassle. I used a regular drill with a handle extension. Clamped it to a table. Easy.

    Also, if you have a drill press, drill from the outside with the whole wheel sitting on the press table. If you can't get the table low enough, just put the wheel on the ground or something like that.

    I wouldn't use the punch. It may want to distort the rim a little bit. Hole saws are the way to go fo sho.
    Agreed.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by EPcycles View Post
    I wouldn't use the punch. It may want to distort the rim a little bit. Hole saws are the way to go fo sho.
    Thanks. I was sort of thinking that would be the case.

  38. #38
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    I have been using a ion battery cordless for the pilot holes and a corded drill with a step drill to do the holes to 30mm, so far it seems to be working and cleaning the hole edges with a deburing tool adds to the better finish.


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