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  1. #601
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    Quote Originally Posted by ETChipotle View Post
    That would be great if the Medium Ice Cream Truck fits a #7 frame bag, because that's also the recommended size frame bag for my Medium Ogre. Okay now you've got me thinking...
    There is a chart on Surly's website that show what bag fits on what frame.

    There in lies the problem with a XS ICT, gonna have to go with a custom frame bag if I chose to go that route.

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  2. #602
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    As far as that chart goes, the 2 on my M Wednesday fit like shit... Was way too short. Going to be try either a 3 or 7.

    Santa Cruz Tallboy 4


  3. #603
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    I earlier pictured my Medium ICT with a #7, but here are some measurements. Again, it fits great.

    Maximum Width
    Surly ICT thread-01_length.jpg

    Maximum Height
    Surly ICT thread-02_height.jpg

    Interior with #7 tag
    Surly ICT thread-03_interior.jpg

    Overall showing straps
    Surly ICT thread-04_bag.jpg

  4. #604
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    Clearly Surly is messed up with their recommendations on which bag for both the ICT and Wednesday.




    From DoNotPay's pics the 7 fits great.

    And here are pics of my M Wednesday. First with the "recommended" #2 which clearly doesn't fit well. Way too short. The other shows #7 and it being a MUCH better fit.

    #2



    #7



    Santa Cruz Tallboy 4


  5. #605
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    Be happy, I've got an XS ICT and nothing fits, I'll have to go custom.

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  6. #606
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    Well considering they seem to be suggesting bags on the small size maybe a #1 or #6 would actually fit your XS.

    I stumbled on the right size the hard way. Surly lists bag measurements (so does Revelate for its bags). You could probably figure out if one of those would fit. That's how in stumbled on the #7 probably being a good fit after finding out #2 fit poorly.

    Santa Cruz Tallboy 4


  7. #607
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    Yea, gotta check revelates site, their small ranger might work. No time now, gotta get a quick rip in before bed!

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  8. #608
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    hi guys Adrian from Australia here just put this post up chasing Surly mds 12mm horizontal drop outs if anyone can help http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/des...ia-999780.html

  9. #609
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    Finally some snow

    Finally a new Surly Ice Cream Truck
    Surly ICT thread-ict2.jpg
    Thanks to all finding the right size.
    Its a S for 5'8" with 32" inseam. The seat post is more or less pulled out to the max. Maybe I will get a 400mm seat post.

  10. #610
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    Any thoughts on going with a 120mm Bluto over 100? They seem to be easier to find second hand. Standover isn't really an issue and I figure it would be easy enough to change later on if I don't like it.

  11. #611
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    Got some new wheels build up for my ICT I wanted something different that would stand out. At least I know if I get lost in a snow storm, they will be able to recover the bike!!

    It was a late night, so I'll have to get some pics of them on the bike when I get home.

    Surly ICT thread-hubsessed-cycle-works-onyx-racing-hubs-flo-pink-dt-swiss-br710.jpg

    Surly ICT thread-hubsessed-cycle-works-onyx-racing-hubs-flo-pink-dt-swiss-br710-rear.jpg

    Surly ICT thread-hubsessed-cycle-works-onyx-racing-hubs-flo-pink-dt-swiss-br710-detail.jpg

    Surly ICT thread-hubsessed-cycle-works-onyx-racing-hubs-flo-pink-dt-swiss-br710-side.jpg

    Surly ICT thread-hubsessed-cycle-works-onyx-racing-hubs-flo-pink-dt-swiss-br710-front.jpg
    The obsession of wheels fused with the passion of cycling
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  12. #612
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    that right there is some tasty ass bling!

  13. #613
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    Quote Originally Posted by adw31 View Post
    Any thoughts on going with a 120mm Bluto over 100? They seem to be easier to find second hand. Standover isn't really an issue and I figure it would be easy enough to change later on if I don't like it.
    The front wanders a little more on steeper climbs than it did stock, but I've had fun with the 120 on my ICT.


  14. #614
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryguy79 View Post
    The front wanders a little more on steeper climbs than it did stock, but I've had fun with the 120 on my ICT.

    With running the 120 Bluto, what does it push the H/A out to does anyone know?

  15. #615
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryguy79 View Post
    The front wanders a little more on steeper climbs than it did stock, but I've had fun with the 120 on my ICT.
    Looks good, Surly's answer was that only 100mm is recommended. Might try and watch for a good deal on one with an rct3 damper.

  16. #616
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    I got a good cruise in yesterday. Cold and no snow. . . meh.


  17. #617
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    Nice! Where at?

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  18. #618
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    Quote Originally Posted by adw31 View Post
    Any thoughts on going with a 120mm Bluto over 100? They seem to be easier to find second hand. Standover isn't really an issue and I figure it would be easy enough to change later on if I don't like it.
    I do not know what savings you are looking at by going used, but I bought my 100mm Bluto new for $470. Just had it installed.

  19. #619
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoNotPay View Post
    I do not know what savings you are looking at by going used, but I bought my 100mm Bluto new for $470. Just had it installed.
    Could have gotten one earlier new take off for under $400 on ebay earlier. Winters finally started so I won't switch it over for a few months anyway, might as well wait for my tax returns.

  20. #620
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    Quote Originally Posted by adw31 View Post
    Looks good, Surly's answer was that only 100mm is recommended. Might try and watch for a good deal on one with an rct3 damper.
    I got the RCT3 for 470 new. Jenson had it on sale plus cash back from activejunky.

  21. #621
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    ICT-OPS
    FLICKR ALBUM

    Today I triple flatted. Lame. That is 700+ pumps with the minipump. meh. . . I had sealant in the tubes and they didn't seal. Not sure why the Orange seal can't get ahold when put in tubes. I'm going to try tubeless this week (maybe today if I can get the Duct Tape to seal it).

    What are you guys doing to keep your phones warm? In my jacket pocket it dies in a few minutes when it is sub 20. With standing windchill yesterday was -4 F. I have an Iphone5 which is known for not dealing with the cold very well anyways, but there has to be something I can do. I tried making a 'case' for it out of packing material but it didn't help at all. It lives in an otter box if that makes a difference.

  22. #622
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    if your phone is in an outer jacket pocket its above all the insulation...get it next to your body...


    no freezing problems here...

    Surly ICT thread-dscf1063.jpgSurly ICT thread-dscf1065.jpg

  23. #623
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    Quote Originally Posted by hamsterspam View Post
    if your phone is in an outer jacket pocket its above all the insulation...get it next to your body...
    This, plus you can feel it vibrate if a call/message comes in.

    I recommend putting it in a ziplock bag to keep moisture from your body from condensing on it. Particularly after you take it out to use it and it cools down, when you return it to inside your jacket, moisture will condense on it. My phone fits in a ziplock sandwich bag (minus the sandwich).

  24. #624
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusheleven View Post
    What are you guys doing to keep your phones warm? In my jacket pocket it dies in a few minutes when it is sub 20. With standing windchill yesterday was -4 F. I have an Iphone5 which is known for not dealing with the cold very well anyways, but there has to be something I can do. I tried making a 'case' for it out of packing material but it didn't help at all. It lives in an otter box if that makes a difference.
    Don't buy iPhone
    Here in Finland we have had from -15C to -30C temperatures almost couple weeks now ( And I am in southern Finland.. ). We made couple several hour trips to near lake last weekednd. I had Huawei Android-phone with me ( I tested the Strava app ) which actually started alerting too low battery temp after being couple minutes out of the pocket.. that is just sad..
    But my main phone Lumia 830 worked without problems (used for navigating and geocaching ) like always and this wasn't the first time.
    Same thing with my previous Nokia phones.

    On-topic:
    Finally I start receiving components for my ICT. Today three shipments

  25. #625
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    What I use is a hand warmer. The cold wx pics I've posted on other threads , Were taken with my cell phone. Standing outside in 70+ below F for a few/several hours. If its not really cold then a ziplock baggy in an inner pocket works fine. If your using an Otter Box , you can use a toe warmer and stick it to the outside of the box. Don't put a chem hand/toe warmer in a ziplock . They are air activated and will stop making heat.
    I drop one in an inner pocket and the fon on top it . If you want to pack your fon in an outside bag, put a hand warmer in a sock and your fon on top it . that way the hand warmer gets air and the sock holds in some of the heat . And keeps them together.
    When I'm on the Slope I put my water bottle in an inside chest pocket of my Canada Goose Resolute parka and it will be froze solid in 2 hours. So keeping fons from freezing is something I have a lot of experience with.

  26. #626
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    Quote Originally Posted by short wheel View Post
    Finally a new Surly Ice Cream Truck
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	ICT2.jpg 
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ID:	1040835
    Thanks to all finding the right size.
    Its a S for 5'8" with 32" inseam. The seat post is more or less pulled out to the max. Maybe I will get a 400mm seat post.
    Now that you've had it for a bit . does it still fit you beings its a small. Do u have the factory stem in ? Do you think you will Need a longer seat post ?
    I ask because I am serious about getting an ICT but don't want the wrong size. . I am 5'8.5" with a 31" inseam. Is yours a 210 ?

  27. #627
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    I ended up with a small at 5'9.5" and couldn't be happier. I ride a Vassago SS, so i was hesitant because I like the longer TT on the Vassago, which was close to the medium on the ICT. The ICT feels very playful and is very comfortable on longer rides. I was REALLY grateful for the small the first time I stepped off into the powder on the side trail and came up just short of my friends.

  28. #628
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    OK. I'm too stretched out on my Cogburn L/XL . I had the seat post turned around and shimmed to bring the seat to level it . That was fine for road and trail riding when the ground was bare but now it puts too much of my weight on the front wheel. So I turned it back the way it came. Now I have my weight further back but I raised the bars 1.5" so I'm not as much in the pushup position. Which is more comfortable.
    Thank you.
    My lads have had a couple near misses. Riding in the snow this winter. One of the reasons I went for the Cogburn was the drooped TT. It has paid off so far :-)
    Last edited by Cold Trigger Finger; 01-13-2016 at 07:53 PM. Reason: Felt like it.

  29. #629
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cold Trigger Finger View Post
    Now that you've had it for a bit . does it still fit you beings its a small. Do u have the factory stem in ? Do you think you will Need a longer seat post ?
    I ask because I am serious about getting an ICT but don't want the wrong size. . I am 5'8.5" with a 31" inseam. Is yours a 210 ?
    FWIW, I'm 5'8" and am totally happy on a medium. I did go to a slightly shorter 60mm stem that I already had in my spare parts though.

  30. #630
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cold Trigger Finger View Post
    Now that you've had it for a bit . does it still fit you beings its a small. Do u have the factory stem in ? Do you think you will Need a longer seat post ?
    I ask because I am serious about getting an ICT but don't want the wrong size. . I am 5'8.5" with a 31" inseam. Is yours a 210 ?
    I tried the M and the S side by side. The guy from the bike store voted for the M. I tried a 100 mm stem on the S and two more spacers. This was too much. Now I have 80 mm stem and 2 or 3 spacers, but I will change to 60 or 70 mm. I guess the 60 was the factory stem. I pulled out the seat post to the max, or maybe 5mm before. Which is ok. But since I will use another old Selle Italia sattle which is 10 mm less in hight, I have to pullout the seat post over the max. So I ended up to order a used Thomson Elite seat post with a nice 16mm set back in 410 mm length.

    I am sure I would be happy with the M. But the standover hight was my reason to go with the S, also the guy from the bike store agreed on that. The handlebar width of the M was nicer (750) than on the S (700). The S felt a little more playful after some rounds around the store.

    After all its a really cool bike - I love it. But still trying to find the right pressure and how to convert it to 1x10 or 1x11...

    Hope that will help you.

  31. #631
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    Yes. Thanks. Surlys website doesn't give the particulars of gearing ect . at least not that I could find. .
    With the Lou in back is there any tire/chain rub in the lowest gear?
    I'm guessing not , but that there is with the 2xl SS .

  32. #632
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    I'm 5'8" with 31,5" inseam and I chose S-size ICT. I made a two hour long test drive with S-size Moonlander and test drove the M-size ICT and S-size feeled better.

  33. #633
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    It looks like there are lots of us in the 5'8" to 5'9" range. I too rode the M and S at the bike shop and ended up with the S - I ride it with an 80mm stem as I felt a little cramped wrist to knee wise with the stock 60. The medium with a shortened stem would have been perfectly acceptable, but like others I prefer more stand-over on a MTB.

  34. #634
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    Quote Originally Posted by LCW View Post
    Well considering they seem to be suggesting bags on the small size maybe a #1 or #6 would actually fit your XS.

    I stumbled on the right size the hard way. Surly lists bag measurements (so does Revelate for its bags). You could probably figure out if one of those would fit. That's how in stumbled on the #7 probably being a good fit after finding out #2 fit poorly.
    I figured it out! Salsa's #1 bag fits my XS ICT. It's not perfect but it works.



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  35. #635
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    Awesome!

    Surly needs to seriously redo their bad size chart. It's f**ked.

    Santa Cruz Tallboy 4


  36. #636
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    Quote Originally Posted by rusheleven View Post

    What are you guys doing to keep your phones warm? In my jacket pocket it dies in a few minutes when it is sub 20. With standing windchill yesterday was -4 F. I have an Iphone5 which is known for not dealing with the cold very well anyways, but there has to be something I can do. I tried making a 'case' for it out of packing material but it didn't help at all. It lives in an otter box if that makes a difference.
    I have an iPhone5 as well and use a pocket on my mid-layer instead of the outer layer and I've not had any issues. Mine lives in an otter box too.

    What I'm having trouble with in temps below 10-15 F is my water freezing. Short of using a camelbak and strapping it under my mid layer, is there anything you can do to save water in bottles? I have an insulated bottle, but even using hot tea, it's frozen within an hour. Would a frame bag help much at all, or is a camelbak a necessity?

  37. #637
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    Quote Originally Posted by cassa89 View Post
    I have an iPhone5 as well and use a pocket on my mid-layer instead of the outer layer and I've not had any issues. Mine lives in an otter box too.

    What I'm having trouble with in temps below 10-15 F is my water freezing. Short of using a camelbak and strapping it under my mid layer, is there anything you can do to save water in bottles? I have an insulated bottle, but even using hot tea, it's frozen within an hour. Would a frame bag help much at all, or is a camelbak a necessity?
    Some put a shot of whiskey in their water bottle as antifreeze. Any other "spirit" should do the trick.

    Disclaimer: I have no personal experience with this and only repeat it because I find it ingenious and a bit crazy.

  38. #638
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    I use a Camelback MULE and blow back all the water out of the tube. I wear it on the outside of all of my clothing. As long as I remember to drink from it regularly I've had good success with keeping it going down to 3F. I haven't tested below that.

    What are you guys wearing as a base layer that has a pocket?

    and so we don't get too far off topic. . .


    Where #hopesanddreams died.

    I tried running Orange Seal in tubes. It didn't work. Failed to seal very small thorn holes with 8oz in each tire.

    I set the front wheel up tubeless yesterday (its holding as of now) with 3 layers of black duct tape and a tubeless stem. Stock Tire Stock Rim. I failed to weigh it so no idea what the weight difference is. If it seems to keep working I'll do the rear and try to remember to weigh it.


    And another bike pic, because it is pretty.

    ICT-OPS

  39. #639
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    That's quite surprising. I have had absolutely the best lock with Orange Seal. I haven't tried everything (Stans, Caf Latex, and Orange), but that's simply because I didn't need to continue to try anything after I tried Orange Seal.

    If you ride in cold weather, the make a cold-weather specific formula which may help.

  40. #640
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    For riding in cold weather. Put a chemical hand warmer in the pocket you keep your fon in. If you don't have s water proof fon . mine is a MilSpec CAT fon . its rated to -12F. However my past 8 fons have not been waterproof or freeze proof. If you put your fon in a ziplock baggy to keep your fon protected from sweat or drowning if you take a spill in the bay or a crik. Then put a hand warmer underneath it. . If you want , you can put the whole mess in a spare pair of socks. It keeps the heater and fon in contact and holds in some heat. Don't put the hand / toe warmer inside anything air proof as they work as a reaction to air. Block the air from reaching it and it stops making heat .
    I pack a good old fashion Stanley Thermos in a cage carrier on my fork. . In really cold weather , I put a hand warmer in a sock, put a bottle of water on top and put it inside a interior chest pocket in my parka. But for u guys where its warm I think it would work fine in a frame bag , Bannane hammock or other handlebar bag.

  41. #641
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    I am new to the ICT club and have combed many of the threads here looking for carbon fork recommendations that would play well with the surly geo well as the 150mm front hub. What brand and model carbon fork are you guys using for your ict and how do you like it?

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    I bought the 11-42 Sunrace for my Moonlander. It is very well made. Shifts fine. Seems like a great value to me, and I'll just use the cassette I took off on something else.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tooslow View Post
    I see many are running 1X. Has anyone seen / tried this:

    http://www.sunrace.cz/dokumenty/sunrace2015.pdf

    they seem to produce a 10 speed that is up to a 42 around the same $ as just a 42 tooth cog aftermarket. With this, no surgery required for the stock slx cassette as it is a swap and no need to buy XT to avoid surgery.

    I am going to stick with 2X since I got my 32 ring on now. But this looks like an interesting option.

    just wondering...

  43. #643
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    Quote Originally Posted by SeattleJP View Post
    I bought the 11-42 Sunrace for my Moonlander. It is very well made. Shifts fine. Seems like a great value to me, and I'll just use the cassette I took off on something else.
    What rear der are you using?

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  44. #644
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    Will the 11-42 Sunrace fit on a Shimano hub? Or is it a totally different thing ?

  45. #645
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cold Trigger Finger View Post
    Will the 11-42 Sunrace fit on a Shimano hub? Or is it a totally different thing ?
    It fits Shimano.

  46. #646
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    Thank you !

  47. #647
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    Quote Originally Posted by J-RAD View Post
    I am new to the ICT club and have combed many of the threads here looking for carbon fork recommendations that would play well with the surly geo well as the 150mm front hub. What brand and model carbon fork are you guys using for your ict and how do you like it?
    Axle to crown is 483 on the stock fork. Offset 47. Find something close to that and you're golden. Salsa Makwa would work.
    No moss...

  48. #648
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    Cool-blue Rhythm

    Surly ICT thread-12615681_10153810691064976_1885332490601122437_o.jpg
    Finally!

    16" ICT
    DT Swiss wheels
    Race Face Turbine, crank, stem, handlebar
    Thomson seatpost
    Shimano M8000 1x11
    AbsoluteBlack 30t oval
    Shimano Zee brakes
    Surly Big Knard & Barbegazi
    15kg with inner tubes ( will be done tubeless soon )

  49. #649
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffw-13 View Post
    Axle to crown is 483 on the stock fork. Offset 47. Find something close to that and you're golden. Salsa Makwa would work.
    Thank for the reply. Looks like the Makwa is 142 spaced based on the searches I am seeing. I see ican and Dengfu make something close. Anyone have experience with those on an ICT?

  50. #650
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    Sharp looking ict. I got the same in M. S would have been fine too since I am in between sizes - especially now with 30" of snow outside.

    I rode it in snow the first time Friday night when we got 6" and it was so much fun! Then we got pounded from night till all day Saturday. After shoveling 5+ hours I am too tired to do anything now. I am hoping to get out after more shoveling today but it is not looking good... Just too much snow to clear

  51. #651
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    Where r u.located with some much snow ?

  52. #652
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    Surly ICT thread

    Me? East Coast!

  53. #653
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    FYI for everyone.. Built up a set of Whiskey no9 carbon rims with DT Swiss hubs and installed the new Whiskey no9 carbon fork on a customers blue ICT ops. Lose about 5lbs for $2500ish....

  54. #654
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    Hi All, first post here. I have purchased an ICT frameset and some wheels, and am now trying to work out which parts to get; specifically choosing whether to go with a 2x10/11 or 1x11 drivetrain is doing my head in.

    With the RaceFace cinch cranksets, does anyone know if it's possible to run them with two front chainrings using a spider on an ICT frame? I am wondering this because at the moment I am leaning towards a 1x11 groupset (shimano XT), but if I ride this and it turns out to be not to my liking, I would want to consider converting it to a 2x system, without having to get the surly OD cranks.

    Regardless of the above, what are peoples' thoughts regarding 1x11 versus 2x10 on the ICT? I like being able to spin up climbs, and would probably put a 26 or 28 tooth ring on the front of a 1x11 - with a 42tooth in the rear am I likely to find myself running out of gears on steep climbs?

    Thanks for any input! It has been great reading the ICT threads on this forum.

  55. #655
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    The stock ICT has 22 / 36 front, and 11 - 36 rear. If you go to 26 front and 42 rear, you will have almost the same granny gear. In my opinion, it is pretty useless. I find it too short for long steep climbs, and tend to favor one or two gears up there for when I'm in spinning mode. Based on my experience with the bike, I'm in the process of converting to a 1x10, and I'll be running a 28t front with a bash guard on the OD cranks with an 11 - 42 rear. I guess in a month or so (waiting on parts), I'll be able to tell you how it worked out,

  56. #656
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeR91 View Post
    If you go to 26 front and 42 rear, you will have almost the same granny gear. In my opinion, it is pretty useless. I find it too short for long steep climbs, and tend to favor one or two gears up there for when I'm in spinning mode.

    Sorry, just to clarify - you mean that 22/36 is not a low enough ratio for you?

  57. #657
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    i went with the wolf tooth 28 tooth chainring myself,reasoning it would be far easier to swap the stock 2x setup back on to the OD cranks if i ever felt i needed it for bikepacking...on the rear i have the xt 11 speed 11-40 cassette,and that has had more than enough range for me...indeed i rarely find myself even using the 40 tooth cog at all....the only reason i would go race face is to run an oval chainring...

    Surly ICT thread-dscf1123.jpgSurly ICT thread-dscf1126.jpg

  58. #658
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    Quote Originally Posted by DisappearHere View Post
    Sorry, just to clarify - you mean that 22/36 is not a low enough ratio for you?
    I would rather be in a higher gear. I never shift down that low, and if I do, I usually wish I hadn't.

  59. #659
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    I just changed mine to 1x10 with a Wolftooth 30 and a Sunrace 11-40 cassette. I never used the two lightest gears, well never is not true. But works good. When I have to change the rear derailleur I can go with Sram and a 11-42 1x11 setup.

  60. #660
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    I put RaceFace Turbine and AbsoluteBlack 30T oval chainring with Shimano XT 11-42.
    I will change it smaller chainring to maximize ground clearance. 2x11 is not an option because of the ground clearance.

  61. #661
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    Quote Originally Posted by hamsterspam View Post
    i went with the wolf tooth 28 tooth chainring myself,reasoning it would be far easier to swap the stock 2x setup back on to the OD cranks if i ever felt i needed it for bikepacking...on the rear i have the xt 11 speed 11-40 cassette,and that has had more than enough range for me...indeed i rarely find myself even using the 40 tooth cog at all....the only reason i would go race face is to run an oval chainring...
    That sounds promising. What's the chainline like running the wolftooth on the OD crank?

  62. #662
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    Totally agree - I had some idiot give me shit about my steel Xooker today - I felt like telling him to grow some balls and stop harping in a out weight - with skill and good legs steel can beat carbon every day..

  63. #663
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    Quote Originally Posted by DisappearHere View Post
    That sounds promising. What's the chainline like running the wolftooth on the OD crank?
    its offset by 6mm so its working pretty good,no complaints really

  64. #664
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    So I have a Surly ICT that I have been using for 2 months. I bought the frame and fork and built it up myself. Lately, I noticed that there is somewhat of an annoying play in the fork / headset / front hub area. I feel it whenever I go down a deep bump, or whenever I use the front brake. Initially I thought it was just a loose headset (I used Chris King) but even after tightening the headset I still feel the play.

    I felt around the fork / headset area and don't think it is there. It might be the brake pads moving whenever I pull the brake levers, but that would be abnormal because my 29er does not feel like that whenever I brake. They both have XT brakes. It could also be the DT Swiss big ride hub. The axles end caps are loose and but I know they are supposed to be like that with DT Swiss hubs. I tightened the front axle and I still feel the movement whenever I brake.

    I am a pretty good bike mechanic but this has got me stumped.

    Any suggestions on where to focus on?

    Thanks in advance.

  65. #665
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    Quote Originally Posted by paxfobiscum View Post
    Any suggestions on where to focus on?

    Thanks in advance.
    just to cover the painfully obvious, you loosened the stem before your tighten the top cap right?

    my brake pads can move so i can feel it but only when stationary and applying light pressure on the lever. as soon as i pull the lever hard, while rocking the bike back and forth, it goes away.

    did you check for play in the hub? wiggle front wheel side to side.
    Rigid SS 29er
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    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  66. #666
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    just to cover the painfully obvious, you loosened the stem before your tighten the top cap right?

    <snip>
    Just to add to this, in my experience, it is normal for some re-tightening to be required after getting a few miles on the bike. So if you haven't gone back and loosened the stem and tightened the top cap, that would be a good thing to check.

    If you grab the front brake while the bike is stationary, and rock it back and forth, if there is any give - it is probably either the stem, star nut or head set. That would eliminate the brake pretty quickly.

  67. #667
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    Quote Originally Posted by paxfobiscum View Post
    I am a pretty good bike mechanic but this has got me stumped.

    Any suggestions on where to focus on?

    Thanks in advance.
    Do you have Centerloc hubs? If so, it's possibly the interface between your brake disc and your hub. I personally hate Centerloc but my two dyno hubs have it and that exact thing happens and only occurs when I put them on my bike. It took me forever to figure it out and it's always disconcerting. If you can, try a wheel with 6 bolt and see if you still get the wobble.

  68. #668
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    Thank you for all the responses. To answer...

    1) I have done the painfully obvious of loosening the stem before tightening the top cap, and then tightening the stem bolts again. I have done this 48,353 times in my life.

    2) If I grab the brake while the bike is stationary, and rock the bike back and forth, I do feel the slight play and very annoying play, even after doing the "painfully obvious" in #1.

    3) This XT brake set is a few months old, which I removed from my Cannondale 29er. Never had any issues with it before so it might not be the caliper play. Or maybe it is.

    4) Yes I use Centerlock hubs, which is a DT Swiss 350 big ride hub. Initially I suspected the play might come from the loose rotor, so I tightened this sucker down really hard. Cannot imagine how it might still have some give / play after torqueing this baby down.

    So the problem is either in (1) The fork / headset area or (2) the brake caliper, or the (3) hub / rotor area. So this weekend I will try to do the following:

    1) Use another wheel with a different hub that uses a 6-bolt rotor. This should eliminate the possibility of hub / rotor play. If there is still some give, then the next step will be....

    2) Use a different brake caliper. If there is still some give, then the play is in the fork / headset area.

  69. #669
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    This is probably painfully obvious too, but if you turn the front wheel 90 degrees while holding the brake, you can pretty much isolate the headset from any problems with the wheel (except for a loose hub, which you should be able to feel wiggling the wheel side to side). If things are solid at 90 degrees, it's most likely not your headset causing the problem.

  70. #670
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlipperyToad View Post
    This is probably painfully obvious too, but if you turn the front wheel 90 degrees while holding the brake, you can pretty much isolate the headset from any problems with the wheel (except for a loose hub, which you should be able to feel wiggling the wheel side to side). If things are solid at 90 degrees, it's most likely not your headset causing the problem.
    OK, I will test that when I get home. This is getting to be quite frustrating. I contacted DT Swiss technical support in the US (they actually responded to my email!) and they are asking me to do some tests of the their hub.

    I suspect the problem is in the headset area, but I can only ascertain that by using another wheel and brake caliper.

    Updates to come soon.

  71. #671
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    Has anyone else had any problems regarding their press fit bottom bracket on the ICT? My GF's driveside bearing blew out after two months of minimal riding. Im not hearing good things about PF BB's either.

  72. #672
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    Would anyone be able to confirm (or tell me if I am wrong) that this bottom bracket from Wheels Manufacturing:

    Fat Bike Bottom Brackets

    PressFit 41mm Angular Contact Fat Bike BB for 24mm (Shimano) Cranks - Black

    Would fit the Surly OD Crank for the ICT? This page seems to suggest that a PF41 BB for a 24mm Spindle should fit the crank:

    http://surlybikes.com//uploads/downl...structions.pdf

    Cheers!

  73. #673
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    Quote Originally Posted by paxfobiscum View Post
    OK, I will test that when I get home. This is getting to be quite frustrating. I contacted DT Swiss technical support in the US (they actually responded to my email!) and they are asking me to do some tests of the their hub.

    I suspect the problem is in the headset area, but I can only ascertain that by using another wheel and brake caliper.

    Updates to come soon.
    make sure that you have a 3-5mm gap between the top cap and the steerer tube, also. obvious, I know but still good to make sure that it's not bottoming out before you get the proper pre-load on the headset bearings.

  74. #674
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    Quote Originally Posted by HappyCamperAK View Post
    Has anyone else had any problems regarding their press fit bottom bracket on the ICT? My GF's driveside bearing blew out after two months of minimal riding. Im not hearing good things about PF BB's either.
    mines still solid after a year of abuse

  75. #675
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlipperyToad View Post
    This is probably painfully obvious too, but if you turn the front wheel 90 degrees while holding the brake, you can pretty much isolate the headset from any problems with the wheel (except for a loose hub, which you should be able to feel wiggling the wheel side to side). If things are solid at 90 degrees, it's most likely not your headset causing the problem.
    OK, I did this last night: turned the front wheel 90 degrees while holding the brake. The result: No play. So based on your opinion, the problem is not the headset. Since the hub has no lateral play (side-to-side), then I suspect the culprit is the brake pads shifting. This is really annoying.

  76. #676
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeR91 View Post
    The stock ICT has 22 / 36 front, and 11 - 36 rear. If you go to 26 front and 42 rear, you will have almost the same granny gear. In my opinion, it is pretty useless. I find it too short for long steep climbs, and tend to favor one or two gears up there for when I'm in spinning mode. Based on my experience with the bike, I'm in the process of converting to a 1x10, and I'll be running a 28t front with a bash guard on the OD cranks with an 11 - 42 rear. I guess in a month or so (waiting on parts), I'll be able to tell you how it worked out,

    Ah, found it . Sorry

  77. #677
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    Quote Originally Posted by paxfobiscum View Post
    OK, I did this last night: turned the front wheel 90 degrees while holding the brake. The result: No play. So based on your opinion, the problem is not the headset. Since the hub has no lateral play (side-to-side), then I suspect the culprit is the brake pads shifting. This is really annoying.
    On mine it wasn't the brake pads. It is the tiny amount of play between the disc rotor and the Centerloc system on your hub. It just gets amplified due to the size of your wheel. If you try it with a 6 bolt wheel, I'm guessing you won't have any play. At least that's the way it works out in my garage anyway. ....And, I completely agree... it's hugely annoying.

  78. #678
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    ICT on the beach?

    Hi gang. I got an ICT for a Xmas present (because of N+1 of course) and I'm having a blast with it. I plan on taking it to Florida next week for Spring Break to ride on the beach. Anything I need to know special to keep from ruining anything in that salty environment? As far as I know, the frame has NOT been treated with FrameSaver.
    Thanks

  79. #679
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    I assume it's the same as any other steel items that come into contact with salt - wash/rinse it well with fresh water when you're done. I'd give the chain extra attention, a good bath and lube.

  80. #680
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    checking purchase date

    2 years (Purchase date: 10-04-2014) with my ICT - still pretty much stock, still going strong, still fun. Love this bike. Thinking about adding another wheelset to skip changing from studded to regular tires.

    Last edited by maineCommuter; 03-28-2016 at 07:11 AM. Reason: went back and checked when I purchased my ict

  81. #681
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    Thanks Slippery!

  82. #682
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    I would take the time to apply the frame saver before going to the salt. Having lived on the coast.of Alaska for over 30 years I know all too well the truly incideous nature of salt on steel and just everything in general. It doesn't even have to get doused in salt water. If you live on the coast, there is more than enough salt in the air to rust the crap.out.of exposed steel. Meaning not protected. BoeShield, Corrosion Block, or some of the spray lanolin protective products that are used on the interior frame members or float planes. Works GREAT
    I HATE!!!!! Rust

    Sent from my E6782L using Tapatalk

  83. #683
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    Quote Originally Posted by maineCommuter View Post
    2 years (Purchase date: 10-04-2014) with my ICT - still pretty much stock, still going strong, still fun. Love this bike. Thinking about adding another wheelset to skip changing from studded to regular tires.

    I'm looking at that exact frame bag (Ranger correct?) for my ICT. Can you tell me what size bike you have there and what size bag you are using?

    I have the Large ICT and am looking at getting the medium Ranger Bag.

  84. #684
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrBanana View Post
    I'm looking at that exact frame bag (Ranger correct?) for my ICT. Can you tell me what size bike you have there and what size bag you are using?

    I have the Large ICT and am looking at getting the medium Ranger Bag.

    Well the medium was too small, the right size Ranger Bag for my Large ICT was .... LARGE! Who woulda guessed it -_-

  85. #685
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    Where can I buy a replacement (quick release) seat-post clamp for this damn bike??? 33.1mm!? WTF! ... Will a 34.9mm one work?

  86. #686
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    Quote Originally Posted by short wheel View Post
    I just changed mine to 1x10 with a Wolftooth 30 and a Sunrace 11-40 cassette. I never used the two lightest gears, well never is not true. But works good. When I have to change the rear derailleur I can go with Sram and a 11-42 1x11 setup.
    Are you running a direct drive r.der? If so, did you need a goat-link to make it work with the Sunrace cassette?

    Thanks!
    Keep the Rubber Side Down

  87. #687
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    Quote Originally Posted by ErvSpanks View Post
    Are you running a direct drive r.der?
    I dont know what that means, bur I use the original setup and just replaced the cassette and the chainrings. The B screw is all the way in or out - I don't remember what the from the bikestore was saying.

    So: I don't use and need a goat link!

    Works great.

  88. #688
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    Cool. Do you have the ICT ops?

    Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
    Keep the Rubber Side Down

  89. #689
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    Nop! Have the blue one.

  90. #690
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrBanana View Post
    Will a 34.9mm one work? [On the blue ICT]
    Anyone? ... Has anyone replaced the seat post clamp on theirs? I wanted to grab one of the salsa quick release ones but no idea if it will suck up all that extra space :|

  91. #691
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrBanana View Post
    Anyone? ... Has anyone replaced the seat post clamp on theirs? I wanted to grab one of the salsa quick release ones but no idea if it will suck up all that extra space :|
    I don't have a Moonlander but I have Salsa clamps on all of my family's bikes. I'm pretty sure the ones that use 30.9 seatposts have the 35mm one. I can check when I get home.
    I like turtles

  92. #692
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    Thanks

  93. #693
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    Well my ICT frame finally turned up from Germany and the build is on.
    The Lefty fork is fitted and just needs a little bit more work to set it up properly and ensure the disc brake isnt rubbing (203mm).
    The wheels are on and I just need to make the SRAM through axle work in the rear hub/mds, as I am not too keen on the Surly thru axle, I think a 190 axle would have done the job as opposed to a 197, and may be the future.
    Reading up on fitting the Raceface Turbine crinch saved me a lot of grief and buying the spacer kits really helped with the install.Winding down the preload showed very little movement and the spacers were right, If I had used the 190 spindle spacers I would have been howling to the Norse gods.
    I wanted to go my own way on this build and once the gears are dialed in and the chain is fitted and once I have given it a once over look out...

    Cheers
    Adrian








  94. #694
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    Well my Ice Cream truck is pretty much completed and road tested, just a couple of minor adjustments and change a few small things that turned up after I initially got the bike out of the shed. The Fork is good and suits the bike and I am happy with the wheel build, the jury is still out on the Raceface seat but time will tell how that goes long term...

    Cheers
    Adrian


  95. #695
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    nice build!

  96. #696
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    Looks GREAT! I don't understand the Lefty tho . Especially on an ICT. But, it does look. Cool !!

  97. #697
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    thanks man, well I had this mendon cyclesmith modded Lefty and tried it on a 9zero7 Xl frame but its head tube was way too long. So that ended that experimentation and I had wanted an ICT since they were released and measuring their headtube it was a match, I wanted a Fatbike with a lefty and with clownshoes and the ICT just suited that. It makes a good combo and will allow me to return my Farley to rigid forks and sell off the Bluto fitted to it.

  98. #698
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cold Trigger Finger View Post
    I don't understand the Lefty tho. Especially on an ICT.
    It's the one wide-rim capable fork that's burly enough to get rad on. The ICT fits wide rims and was made to get rad. What's not to get about that?

  99. #699
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    So is a Lefty as rugged as a standard ridged fork . ? Seems the hub bearing would get thrashed quickly ? But then I don't know, just asking.

  100. #700
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    I think it would be a little stiffer than a Bluto (although I like the one on my Blizzard). Time and experience will tell on the bearing front, at moment I would place an engineering guess and say no but there is more weight on the hub than standard. Will report my future findings...

  101. #701
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    Thank you.

  102. #702
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    I tried looking up 100mm Bluto forks vs 120mm ones for the ICT but I can't seem to get a consensus if it is safe to ride with a 120mm one. Based on my calculations below, is the marginal difference safe given the difference in the travel? Considering sag, it's only an 18mm difference from stock rigid fork. Is this still safe to ride on trails?

    Travel axle-to-crown
    Stock Rigid equivalent to 72mm 483mm
    100mm 100mm 511mm
    25% Sag 75mm 486mm
    120mm 120mm 531mm
    25% Sag 90mm 501mm

  103. #703
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    I've ridden my ICT pretty hard with a 120mm bluto for the last 6 months or so, no problems yet.

  104. #704
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryguy79 View Post
    I've ridden my ICT pretty hard with a 120mm bluto for the last 6 months or so, no problems yet.
    Great! Just wanted to confirm if it's safe to run the bike with the extra 20mm travel.

  105. #705
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    Quote Originally Posted by enzo_n View Post
    Great! Just wanted to confirm if it's safe to run the bike with the extra 20mm travel.
    Its pretty slack, and takes a bit more effort to keep on line when climbs get steep, but I really enjoy it when the trail points down.


  106. #706
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    but the same is true with the 100mm bluto too,its a bit wander-some on the climbs but its all crush crush crush on the downhills...

  107. #707
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    Yeah, I don't think the 20mm would make a huge difference. I only went 120mm because I found a great deal on a 120.

  108. #708
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    Anyone know where a guy can get some new bottom bracket bearings?

    My spindle is smooth when installed but one of the bearings is rough when turned by hand. Figured while I'm getting my lefty figured out might as well button up a few loose ends on the bike as well.

  109. #709
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    Got my black ICT on order, can not wait.
    Carbon Fat Bike Rider

  110. #710
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  111. #711
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    Could anyone be helpful and answer som questions for me?

    What kind of crank spindle diameter do I need?
    Are there any 1x cranks that are confirmed to work without causing chainrub on the tire?
    Can I use BBs from other manufacturers than Surly? (I'm not sure what spec pf41 is)

    There's an ops frame for sale locally for $475 and I've been on the fence for a year about it. The PF BB is a turnoff, but the tiresize the frame can handle is a big plus when living up in the freezer. (69* north)

    Any pits to fall into when building up an ICT from scratch? Odd parts and so forth.

  112. #712
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    race face turbine works fine i can tell you from mine,you need the PF92,the crank,and the ICT spacer kit,aside from that its a 197mmx12mm rear and 150x10mm front,the seatpost is a weird size unless you get a dropper...

  113. #713
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    30.9mm is a weird size? Whut? My last 4 bikes have had 30.9mm seatposts. A Pivot, 2 Yetis, and my ICT.

  114. #714
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    Could anyone be helpful and answer som questions for me?

    What kind of crank spindle diameter do I need?
    Are there any 1x cranks that are confirmed to work without causing chainrub on the tire?
    Can I use BBs from other manufacturers than Surly? (I'm not sure what spec pf41 is)

    There's an ops frame for sale locally for $475 and I've been on the fence for a year about it. The PF BB is a turnoff, but the tiresize the frame can handle is a big plus when living up in the freezer. (69* north)

    Any pits to fall into when building up an ICT from scratch? Odd parts and so forth.
    No problems building up from a frame. I did it and everything is pretty straight forward. I would recommend running 1x10 and using race face cinch cranks. I went with the turbine model. You'll need their press fit bb and use a race face spindle spacer kit #F10014. It's a great system! Have fun, do it!

  115. #715
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    Thank you for the replies

    I've done the numbers and it probably isn't cost effective to build one up vs buying an off the shelf one. Even with generic mulefut wheels off chainreaction, a dirt cheap NX drivetrain and re-using things from my partsbin I'd break even compared to buying a new wednesday or a new ict. (the ict is only $70 more than a wednesday here)

    Oh well, becoming excited for building a fatbike probably sparked something.

  116. #716
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryguy79 View Post
    30.9mm is a weird size? Whut? My last 4 bikes have had 30.9mm seatposts. A Pivot, 2 Yetis, and my ICT.
    i have 4 other surlys so it seems like an off size to me...

  117. #717
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    Quote Originally Posted by hamsterspam View Post
    i have 4 other surlys so it seems like an off size to me...
    There are other brands besides Surly haha.

  118. #718
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryguy79 View Post
    There are other brands besides Surly haha.
    thats true,but its what i can get around here from the lbs,and i prefer to keep as much of my bike money at the shop since they kept my bikes running for years when i had no money to keep them going...
    sure they sell several brands,probably more than im aware of,but i like steel frames,im not concerned with how much a bike weighs,and my budget isnt infinite...surly bikes just fit for me...

  119. #719
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    Quote Originally Posted by hamsterspam View Post
    thats true,but its what i can get around here from the lbs,and i prefer to keep as much of my bike money at the shop since they kept my bikes running for years when i had no money to keep them going...
    sure they sell several brands,probably more than im aware of,but i like steel frames,im not concerned with how much a bike weighs,and my budget isnt infinite...surly bikes just fit for me...
    He probably didn't mean anything by it, Surlys are awesome (their promo videos even more so). But yeah, 30.9 is a common seatpost diameter

  120. #720
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    He probably didn't mean anything by it, Surlys are awesome (their promo videos even more so). But yeah, 30.9 is a common seatpost diameter
    Yeah, just meant if you rode other brands you might know how common 30.9 is.

  121. #721
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    maybe i was thinking of the seatpost collar,i couldnt find one in whatever size it is when i was looking for a blingier version...

    lol,yeah,sorry,i get a lot of flack over the 5 surly thing sometimes,and the absurd level of bling,and the near constant state of flux my bikes are in as i endlessly shuffle bits and bobs around...i guess thats what i love about surly bikes,swap a few parts,change tires or wheels and its a different bike,but still somehow the same...i dunno,i guess its a surly thing,i havent seen many other brands that are so versatile,or with a set of owners so willing to try crazy setups...it seems like surlys end up as one of a kind bikes,set up just so for that one person,unique....

  122. #722
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryguy79 View Post
    Yeah, just meant if you rode other brands you might know how common 30.9 is.
    i wish i could,they just never have xl frames at the tester events around here and the bike shop never stocks anything that fits me and theres like 3 of us in the 6'6" and over club around here,so unfortunately difficult to arrange meaningful testing time...
    and in my case i have 4 bikes that can pretty much share parts,so perhaps better to say among my bike 30.9 is the oddball...

  123. #723
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    Any differences in tire clearance between the regular and ops frame?

  124. #724
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    Guys. I am looking for 1x12 setup on surly ICT (with Bud & Lou on clownshoes, no compromises). Is it possible? Which crank set do I need?

    I am already ordered the frameset, but I wondering about almost everything else (this gonna be my first build from scratch).

    For now I am looking for Eagle cassette, Eagle chain, Eagle derailleur, Surly BB, Surly OD cranks, Wolf Tooth NW chainring (they looks like compatible with Eagle) and Hope Fatsno Pro 4 hubs. Can this build possibly work without chainrub problems?

    If not, what do you recommend for 1x setup? I saw you discussed RaceFace on this page, but why buy RaceFace BB? If original Surly BB should go well with Cinch (iirc same spindle diameter).

    P.S. Still looks like at first I need to buy frame / crankset / rear wheel and measure distances for myself. But it takes months... One month waiting for frame, second for bb, crankset, hubs, rims, tubes and tires, then I measure hubs and another month waiting for spokes. And only after all this stuff I can finally made some measurments just to decide are Eagle goes well or I should look for more easy 1x11/1x10 setups.

  125. #725
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    Just say no to 1x12. Save the money. Or if you must spend it get a custom frame with sweet wheels and a 1x10 with a couple chainrings. Way more bang for your buckaroo.

    Hide the children--
    Or you could just get the OD crankset and run it 2x10. The horror!

    Either way don't forget, Just Say NO to Eagle!

  126. #726
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    Quote Originally Posted by hamsterspam View Post
    i wish i could,they just never have xl frames at the tester events around here and the bike shop never stocks anything that fits me and theres like 3 of us in the 6'6" and over club around here,so unfortunately difficult to arrange meaningful testing time...
    and in my case i have 4 bikes that can pretty much share parts,so perhaps better to say among my bike 30.9 is the oddball...
    The post on my Bullitt is 30.9. Could have saved you a few minutes of standing only riding.

    Shout out to the 6'6"+ club!

  127. #727
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    Any differences in tire clearance between the regular and ops frame?
    I don't think so. Only difference between the two frames is the color.


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  128. #728
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matterhorn View Post
    Just say no to 1x12.
    Wow! Why so many hate to Eagle?

  129. #729
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    No hate at all really. More joking than anything but I definitely would not spend MY money on Eagle. 50 dollar 10 speed XT cassettes have taken me lots of places. If I do spend big money on a drivetrain in will be a Rohloff.

  130. #730
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    Hi all,

    I have been educating myself on press fit BB tech, bearings, etc...

    Out of curiosity:

    1- Has anyone tried to simply replace the Enduro sealed bearings in their Surly 132mm BB, rather than replace the entire BB? Surly instructions for the OD crank indicate that either approach is fine. I saw the entire BB sells for $65, while each bearing sells for about $10-12 depending on whether grade 10 or 5 is selected, so it's probably worthwhile to always replace the entire BB at the appropriate time; but I am curious to read thoughts and experiences.

    2- Has anyone looked into installing one of the Wheels Mfg. PF41 121-132mm fat bike BBs (which come in ABEC3 and angular varieties) in lieu of the Surly BB? The threads that unite the two cups seem to be a good feature compared to the Surly design, but I haven't found evidence that they are worth the price difference. I suppose one disadvantage of the Wheels Mfg. model is that it probably does not come with the spacers that are specific to the Surly OD installation...


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  131. #731
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    Quote Originally Posted by Junglejay View Post
    2- Has anyone looked into installing one of the Wheels Mfg. PF41 121-132mm fat bike BBs (which come in ABEC3 and angular varieties) in lieu of the Surly BB? The threads that unite the two cups seem to be a good feature compared to the Surly design, but I haven't found evidence that they are worth the price difference. I suppose one disadvantage of the Wheels Mfg. model is that it probably does not come with the spacers that are specific to the Surly OD installation...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I've got both the Surly BB and the Wheels Mfg. model with the Angular Contact Bearings. However, I have yet to install the Wheels BB yet! The beauty of the wheels BB is that you can thread it together to theoretically help keep the BB tight and squeak free. I will find out soon enough! Also, the Wheels BB does come with an array of plastic spacers to help you find the right setup. It is made to a fairly high standard as it is a nicely machined aluminum piece!

  132. #732
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    Quote Originally Posted by mohrgan View Post
    I've got both the Surly BB and the Wheels Mfg. model with the Angular Contact Bearings. However, I have yet to install the Wheels BB yet! The beauty of the wheels BB is that you can thread it together to theoretically help keep the BB tight and squeak free. I will find out soon enough! Also, the Wheels BB does come with an array of plastic spacers to help you find the right setup. It is made to a fairly high standard as it is a nicely machined aluminum piece!
    Thanks, Mohrgan. Isn't the Surly BB also machined aluminum?


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  133. #733
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    Quote Originally Posted by Junglejay View Post
    Thanks, Mohrgan. Isn't the Surly BB also machined aluminum?

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    The Surly BB is hard plastic/nylon. It is of nice quality as well!

  134. #734
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    Guys, which rear racks I can use on ICT? Looks like any surly rear racks isn't compatible.

  135. #735
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    Hi, I was curious about rear racks also. Why put eyelets on a frame when no racks are available? A Google search uncovered this:

    Phat Sherpa Rear Eyelet-Mounted (lower frame eyelets) Ice Cream Truck - Old Man Mountain specializes in Racks designed to work on all bikes.

    Being in the U.K. I haven't gone further as I can't be bothered with the import duty.

  136. #736
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    Yamaguchi Cross YT Jeffsy Salsa Mukluk & Vaya Canyon Commuter

  137. #737
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    i thought salsa made a 197 spaced rack...

  138. #738
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    Quote Originally Posted by schnee View Post
    This a nice one? But I don't found any info on website about ICT or smthg.

    Wow, looks ugly.

  139. #739
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    Shimano Saint BB works great with the OD crank as well. I use one on my ICT.

    Shimano Saint BB71-41C Press-Fit Bottom Bracket | Competitive Cyclist

    Just remove the middle part and press in both sides. Works perfect.

  140. #740
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    This beast belong to anyone on this forum?
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  141. #741
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    For those of you running 29+ on your ICT's

    Was it worth it building up a set of 29+ wheels or would your money have been better spent building up a set of light Fatty wheels?

    I have an XL ICT Ops 1x10 with 120mm Bluto and Spesh 4.6 GC's on the stock Salsa Hub/Rolling Darryl wheelset. Carbon bars and a Thomson post as well.
    I ride a lot of rocky NE tech on it, upon which it performs admirably.
    I realize it's an ICT and always will be, but I'd like to lighten it up a bit. I'm presently seeking a Turbine Cinch, which is 3/4 lb less than the OD crank and would like to do something with the wheels as well.

    My other ride is a rigid 29+ SS. The 29 Plus has become my favorite wheel size for it's rollover and rolling capabilities.

    How does the 29+ wheelset translate to the ICT in terms of handling, geometry, standover, etc? I saw someone once mentioned it rode like a sh*tty Krampus. If so, that's not what I want!

    Thanks in advance.

  142. #742
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    Quote Originally Posted by SeaBass_ View Post
    Was it worth it building up a set of 29+ wheels or would your money have been better spent building up a set of light Fatty wheels?

    I have an XL ICT Ops 1x10 with 120mm Bluto and Spesh 4.6 GC's on the stock Salsa Hub/Rolling Darryl wheelset. Carbon bars and a Thomson post as well.
    I ride a lot of rocky NE tech on it, upon which it performs admirably.
    I realize it's an ICT and always will be, but I'd like to lighten it up a bit. I'm presently seeking a Turbine Cinch, which is 3/4 lb less than the OD crank and would like to do something with the wheels as well.

    My other ride is a rigid 29+ SS. The 29 Plus has become my favorite wheel size for it's rollover and rolling capabilities.

    How does the 29+ wheelset translate to the ICT in terms of handling, geometry, standover, etc? I saw someone once mentioned it rode like a sh*tty Krampus. If so, that's not what I want!

    Thanks in advance.

    yes,29+ rocks....the turbine cinch crank is great,expect to have to fiddle with it to keep it from creaking,it does add a bit of q factor...i think the editing got that comment wrong,i said it was like a krampus with a relaxed moral attitude meaning it ripped the downhills with the relaxed geo yo! it does raise the bottom bracket a bit,but in rocky terrain thats tough to complain about,i think it handles great but im hardly the raddest rider around...i kinda like the bluto better in 29+ mode...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Surly ICT thread-dsc03896.jpg  


  143. #743
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    Thanks Hamster. So it's like a Sl*tty Krampus then. You ride it in 69er mode like that or is the pic just for comparison of the 2 wheel sizes?

  144. #744
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    lol,no i couldnt find a good pic in 29er mode with the bluto on,and then i couldnt figure out how to edit the pic out,i was just messing around with the wheels...

  145. #745
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    Quote Originally Posted by hamsterspam View Post
    lol,no i couldnt find a good pic in 29er mode with the bluto on,and then i couldnt figure out how to edit the pic out,i was just messing around with the wheels...
    I was wondering wtf was going on there.

  146. #746
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    Has anyone found a quick release seat post clamp that fits the ICT?

  147. #747
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    I use a Salsa quick release seat post clamp as my poor man's dropper. It is the 33.1 size. Here is the link.

    Salsa Flip Lock Seat Clamp in Tree Fort Bikes Seatpost Collars

    I can post a picture of it on my bike if you want proof.

  148. #748
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    Quote Originally Posted by notregistered View Post
    Has anyone found a quick release seat post clamp that fits the ICT?
    Let me Google that for you...
    "The only way we can truly control the outcome of a ride is not going on it, which is a choice I'm unwilling to make." -K.B.

  149. #749
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChargeCookerMaxi View Post
    I use a Salsa quick release seat post clamp as my poor man's dropper. It is the 33.1 size. Here is the link.

    Salsa Flip Lock Seat Clamp in Tree Fort Bikes Seatpost Collars

    I can post a picture of it on my bike if you want proof.
    Sweet, thanks for quick reply, ordered one.

  150. #750
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    Quote Originally Posted by notregistered View Post
    Sweet, thanks for quick reply, ordered one.
    You bet! Glad to help out if I can.

  151. #751
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    Quote Originally Posted by notregistered View Post
    Has anyone found a quick release seat post clamp that fits the ICT?
    I got one from DKG Products when the Salsa Flip Off out of stock everywhere. It's as nice if not nicer than the Salsa and works like a champ.

    DKG-Seat Post Clamp Sales Page

  152. #752
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loftybarbarian View Post
    Hi, I was curious about rear racks also. Why put eyelets on a frame when no racks are available? A Google search uncovered this:

    Phat Sherpa Rear Eyelet-Mounted (lower frame eyelets) Ice Cream Truck - Old Man Mountain specializes in Racks designed to work on all bikes.

    Being in the U.K. I haven't gone further as I can't be bothered with the import duty.

    Being in the UK your best bet is Carradice who are the UK importers of OMM.

    They list the Phat but its out of stock at the moment (Oct2016). Might be worth an email to them if you are interested, they are always good with responding.

  153. #753
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    Anyone with an XL Ice Cream Truck who could measure the main triangle? My frame should arrive in three weeks and I could use the time to make a frame bag before it arrives.
    My outdoor blog: www.yetirides.com

  154. #754
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    Quote Originally Posted by Outsider View Post
    Anyone with an XL Ice Cream Truck who could measure the main triangle? My frame should arrive in three weeks and I could use the time to make a frame bag before it arrives.
    Check with Nick at Rogue Panda. I believe he should have all the ICT sizes mapped out by now. And he makes amazing bags for the money. I love mine!




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  155. #755
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    Oh, and sorry if you meant to make it yourself... my suggestion might not work in that case.


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  156. #756
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    Thanks, I'm sure Rogue Panda makes good stuff, but it's a tad expensive and cumbersome to order stuff to Europe from the states. And my intention is to make one myself. I have made five framebags before.

    Skickat frn min SM-A510F via Tapatalk
    My outdoor blog: www.yetirides.com

  157. #757
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    Quote Originally Posted by Outsider View Post
    Thanks, I'm sure Rogue Panda makes good stuff, but it's a tad expensive and cumbersome to order stuff to Europe from the states. And my intention is to make one myself. I have made five framebags before.

    Skickat frn min SM-A510F via Tapatalk
    Hey Outsider.... I would gladly do a bag for you but I don't have the template (I know that's what you were hoping for). Also, even though I'm in Switzerland, I can ship from Germany. Shoot me a message if you're interested in more info.

  158. #758
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    Quote Originally Posted by Junglejay View Post
    Check with Nick at Rogue Panda. I believe he should have all the ICT sizes mapped out by now. And he makes amazing bags for the money. I love mine!




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    Nice bike man!

  159. #759
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1 Speed View Post
    Hey Outsider.... I would gladly do a bag for you but I don't have the template (I know that's what you were hoping for). Also, even though I'm in Switzerland, I can ship from Germany. Shoot me a message if you're interested in more info.
    I don't actually now how buying from Switzerland works with tolls and stuff. Germany would of course be easy, but I've made my own frame bags since 2010 now, so that is still my intention. It's almost like an initiation rite for the bike.
    My outdoor blog: www.yetirides.com

  160. #760
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    Two key pieces arrived today. Now I'll just have to wait for the frame to arrive.
    Surly ICT thread-dsc01842-s.jpg

    Surly ICT thread-dsc01852-s.jpg
    My outdoor blog: www.yetirides.com

  161. #761
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    And there it is.






    The rear brake hose obviously has to be shortened and some other small adjustments made.
    My outdoor blog: www.yetirides.com

  162. #762
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    Very nice. The colour matched rims look awesome.

  163. #763
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loftybarbarian View Post
    Very nice. The colour matched rims look awesome.
    It sure does. That helps me a ton because my son wants a color matched bike and I was kinda on the fence about it. It looks awesome.
    I like turtles

  164. #764
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    just rode in fresh powder. took me two hours to go 2 miles...


  165. #765
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    nice build outsider,looks sharp!

  166. #766
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    Quote Originally Posted by hamsterspam View Post
    race face turbine works fine i can tell you from mine,you need the PF92,the crank,and the ICT spacer kit,aside from that its a 197mmx12mm rear and 150x10mm front,the seatpost is a weird size unless you get a dropper...

    Did you find that RF Turbine Q factor was increased quite a bit by the compared to the Surly O.D. crank that comes with it stock?

  167. #767
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rodney Jekyl View Post
    just rode in fresh powder. took me two hours to go 2 miles...

    Sounds about right. Gotta groom them trails.

  168. #768
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    Quote Originally Posted by HappyCamperAK View Post
    Did you find that RF Turbine Q factor was increased quite a bit by the compared to the Surly O.D. crank that comes with it stock?
    q213mm on the O.D. Vs q233mm on the RF turbine, so 2 cm increase.

    Its a shame the od crank is so ridiculously heavy, since the q factor is rather nice.

  169. #769
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy81 View Post
    q213mm on the O.D. Vs q233mm on the RF turbine, so 2 cm increase.

    Its a shame the od crank is so ridiculously heavy, since the q factor is rather nice.
    Yea, its heavy and cant fit any chainring smaller than a 30t.

  170. #770
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    not true,wolftooth makes a 28 and i think a 26 that fits the od crank...and i think the surly narrow wide are available too...

  171. #771
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    Quote Originally Posted by HappyCamperAK View Post
    Yea, its heavy and cant fit any chainring smaller than a 30t.
    wut? surly makes a 20T i will be putting on mine shortly...

  172. #772
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    I've been riding the 28t Surly NW and it's been flawless.

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  173. #773
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    Except the RF Turbine has you other models of cranksets there which it rise on this ICT ?
    The crankset Hope it takes up on it ?
    Excuse me for my bad english , I am French...

  174. #774
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    i dont think hope makes a spindle long enough,they make a PF30 bottom bracket that will work with the race face turbine,and i think they make one for PF24 which would fit the surly crank or the race face aeffect,and i think there is a SRAM crank that will work...

  175. #775
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy81 View Post
    q213mm on the O.D. Vs q233mm on the RF turbine, so 2 cm increase.

    Its a shame the od crank is so ridiculously heavy, since the q factor is rather nice.
    Can run the RF turbine with 170mm spindle with some creativity, which has a q-factor of 213.

    There isnt enough space for thenpreload ring itself, let alone any spacers. I just sanded down the preload ring itself to make it function as the spacer. Took some fiddling, but over 800 miles later, its still working like a champ. Another option would be to leave the preloader off all together and just use spacers to fill the gap.

    Preload rings can be had for just a few bucks a piece, so you can have a few on hand in case you botch the adjustment. You could also just throw in a thin spacer if you took to much off the spacer.

  176. #776
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pkovo View Post
    Can run the RF turbine with 170mm spindle with some creativity, which has a q-factor of 213.

    There isnt enough space for thenpreload ring itself, let alone any spacers. I just sanded down the preload ring itself to make it function as the spacer. Took some fiddling, but over 800 miles later, its still working like a champ. Another option would be to leave the preloader off all together and just use spacers to fill the gap.

    Preload rings can be had for just a few bucks a piece, so you can have a few on hand in case you botch the adjustment. You could also just throw in a thin spacer if you took to much off the spacer.
    You managed this on ict?
    Please post pics and a full description. Consider making a separate thread for it, since it's a very valuable mod.
    (I dreamt of cutting / welding, etc in order to run that spindle when I was looking at getting the frame)

    The biggest drawback for ict/blackborrow and the offset 132mm bb is precisely that normally your stuck with the gigantic q on 190 spindle if running RF cranks.
    To be able to run turbines on 170 is incredible. The frame has space, it's just the bb that's the issue.

  177. #777
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy81 View Post
    You managed this on ict?
    Please post pics and a full description. Consider making a separate thread for it, since it's a very valuable mod.
    (I dreamt of cutting / welding, etc in order to run that spindle when I was looking at getting the frame)

    The biggest drawback for ict/blackborrow and the offset 132mm bb is precisely that normally your stuck with the gigantic q on 190 spindle if running RF cranks.
    To be able to run turbines on 170 is incredible. The frame has space, it's just the bb that's the issue.
    Yes, thisnis setup on my ICT. I can take/post some pics later, but it was setup like this when I biught it used....well, it was sort if setup this way.

    When I bought it the cranks with 170mm spindle were installed. Upon my initial ride, I noticed there was play in the cranks, and only then did I realize this had a custom setup. Upon inspection I found it had cinch cranks, but without the preload ring. When I took it apart, I found both outer bearing seals were on one side, and there were no spacers installed. After pondering, this is what I theorized:

    The PO set it up so that the preload ring was left out, and likely one custom spacer was used to take up the small bit of space left. He installed a new chainring before the sale, and I suspect he inadvertantly left out the custom spacer, but installed the second outer bearing seal thinking IT was the spacer, and hence not realizing he left the seal off the other side.

    Of course, this is a complete guess on my part, but couldnt think of how else it could have been setup this way. It was very noticeable riding this way, and the bearings would have been damaged if it was ridden much like this, so guessing he did this when it was already set for the sale with no peddles, and he didnt test it.

    Anyway, I was in a hurry to ride, and was able to get a preload ring from LBS quickly, so I made that into my spacer. Might have been better to source a handful of thin spacers to do the job but this has worked fine.

    Admittedly, since the bike came with this setup used, now that I think about it, the PO could have faced down the BB as well to get some extra room?? Whatever the case, it feels good. I have another lower end fat bike that has a wider q factor and this definitely feels better, but thenother one doesnt bother me too much.

    I'll get some pics when I am home. I guess I could measure the BB shell as well in case it has been taken down a bit. For me, having bought the bike used, this setup is my "normal" as its the only way Ive ridden it.

    I did notice when I had it apart the BB did not have a plastic tube; its essentially just two pressed in bearings. Maybe thats a clue that the BB is narrower than itstarted life as? Its my first bike with a press in BB so this is new to me.
    Last edited by Pkovo; 12-31-2016 at 08:44 AM. Reason: Adding more info

  178. #778
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    Not the best pics, but this is the setup with Turbines and a 170 spindle. Again, no spacers, the pre-load ring sanded down to function as the spacer.






  179. #779
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    New drivetrain, tires, rear wheel

    After much frustration with the stock salsa rear hub. I had a wheel built with a hope fatsno hub with the stainless freehub body. While i was at it, I switched to xt 11 speed set up. It seems to be a very solid hub. I can now confidently mash up hills with out shearing the pawls from my freehub, something that was previously impossible. (I'm 6'10", 260) Though I still find myself wincing, waiting for the KA-chunk! of freehub death when i climb.

    I'm running a wolftooth 32 tooth front ring on the od crank with an 11-46 cassette. I installed everything myself and still the shifting is incredible, even from 37 to 46. I have a few steep climbs near me, and I've found the gearing to be just low enough. The Ice cream truck is my one and only bike, so I wanted to have a gear range that's wide enough to do anything. I rode it to work almost every day last summer.

    I was able to get a bunch of rides in before it got very icy around Christmas and bud and lou just couldn't cut it anymore. I caved and bought some vee snowshoe XL studded tires. They arrived three days ago and I've gotten in as many rides. Its been zero F or below here in Minnesota.

    I'm very impressed with the tires. They do feel a bit slow and the compound is very tacky, at least at the present cold temps. They are almost prohibitively grippy at low pressure on pavement with a bit of self-steer, but I like them enough on the trail that I'm considering setting them up tubeless for the rest of the season. I'll just stop riding to the trailhead. I paid 225 for the set with shipping. Dillinger 5s better be amazing, because these tires are pretty damn good. I can descend confidently on ice, and have yet to crash due to unexpected loss of traction. I also put some 3/8 screws with a head similar to kold kutters in the bottom of my boots. It has been very helpful.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Surly ICT thread-img_3336.jpg  


  180. #780
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    Quote Originally Posted by BikeEnthusiast View Post
    After much frustration with the stock salsa rear hub. I had a wheel built with a hope fatsno hub with the stainless freehub body. While i was at it, I switched to xt 11 speed set up. It seems to be a very solid hub. I can now confidently mash up hills with out shearing the pawls from my freehub, something that was previously impossible. (I'm 6'10", 260) Though I still find myself wincing, waiting for the KA-chunk! of freehub death when i climb.

    I'm running a wolftooth 32 tooth front ring on the od crank with an 11-46 cassette. I installed everything myself and still the shifting is incredible, even from 37 to 46. I have a few steep climbs near me, and I've found the gearing to be just low enough. The Ice cream truck is my one and only bike, so I wanted to have a gear range that's wide enough to do anything. I rode it to work almost every day last summer.

    I was able to get a bunch of rides in before it got very icy around Christmas and bud and lou just couldn't cut it anymore. I caved and bought some vee snowshoe XL studded tires. They arrived three days ago and I've gotten in as many rides. Its been zero F or below here in Minnesota.

    I'm very impressed with the tires. They do feel a bit slow and the compound is very tacky, at least at the present cold temps. They are almost prohibitively grippy at low pressure on pavement with a bit of self-steer, but I like them enough on the trail that I'm considering setting them up tubeless for the rest of the season. I'll just stop riding to the trailhead. I paid 225 for the set with shipping. Dillinger 5s better be amazing, because these tires are pretty damn good. I can descend confidently on ice, and have yet to crash due to unexpected loss of traction. I also put some 3/8 screws with a head similar to kold kutters in the bottom of my boots. It has been very helpful.
    Can you send a photo of the screws you used ?
    Are your Snowshoe XLs the 5.05" or 4.8" ?

  181. #781
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sir Surly View Post
    Can you send a photo of the screws you used ?
    Are your Snowshoe XLs the 5.05" or 4.8" ?
    Tires are 4.8s

    The screws were only a few bucks at home depot.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Surly ICT thread-img_3517.jpg  

    Surly ICT thread-img_3518.jpg  


  182. #782
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    Quote Originally Posted by Outsider View Post
    And there it is.






    The rear brake hose obviously has to be shortened and some other small adjustments made.
    Beautiful bike.
    2013 mongoose Fat bike
    2012 Moonlander.

    http://undergroundvelo.proboards.com/

  183. #783
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    Quote Originally Posted by bighit View Post
    Beautiful bike.
    Thanks. It was just on its first real shakedown ride.

    My outdoor blog: www.yetirides.com

  184. #784
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    Quote Originally Posted by Outsider View Post
    Thanks. It was just on its first real shakedown ride.

    Very nice. Enjoyed checking out your blog, too.
    "The only way we can truly control the outcome of a ride is not going on it, which is a choice I'm unwilling to make." -K.B.

  185. #785
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    Quote Originally Posted by Outsider View Post
    Thanks. It was just on its first real shakedown ride.

    Sick setup!

    Santa Cruz Tallboy 4


  186. #786
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    First trail rides on the dunderbeist/flowbeist combo the past two days and really enjoyed the traction they provide. Rode in deeper powder as well as on groomed trails and snowmobile tracks and they performed well in both. Forgot just how tiring winter snow riding is! About an hour in and I am gassed.

    Surly ICT thread-img_1370.jpg
    Surly Pugsley
    Surly Instigator 1.0

  187. #787
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    Quote Originally Posted by Outsider View Post
    Thanks. It was just on its first real shakedown ride.

    whats that under the downtube?

  188. #788
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    Quote Originally Posted by hamsterspam View Post
    whats that under the downtube?
    Since Surly, for some incomprehensible reason, didn't put bottle holder attachment points under the downtube, one has to look for other options. This is a downtube bag from Endless Trails.
    My outdoor blog: www.yetirides.com

  189. #789
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    If anybody has been waiting on the "slotted" MDS dropout chips that allow SRAM 11-speed derailleurs with 12mm Thru axles, they're in stock at QBP.

  190. #790
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    Just looked through this whole thread and did not see anything. Has anyone tried to replace the front thru axle with a quick release axle? I need to remove the front wheel to transport the bike in my car, so would like to be able to remove the front wheel without a tool, like I can do on every other bike.

    I ordered a DT Swiss RWS 150x15 front thru axle and a Paul front thru axle nut, thinking that would work, but no go. The axle is like 25mm too long!

  191. #791
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    Paul QR TA will work fine with the ICT.

  192. #792
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChargeCookerMaxi View Post
    Paul QR TA will work fine with the ICT.
    What would the threaded end of the Paul TA thread into? There's no threaded "receiver" on the ICT frame or fork.

    Edit. Just read the post above, "Paul thru axle nut" is not mentioned on the Paul thru axle's page but I guess if you got the correct length that might work!

  193. #793
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    Quote Originally Posted by Willum View Post
    What would the threaded end of the Paul TA thread into? There's no threaded "receiver" on the ICT frame or fork.
    Paul makes an end sort of like what a QR has that it threads into.

  194. #794
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    On the bottom of page here it even says what length you'll need
    for ICT.
    I've been thinking of doing this as well.
    https://paulcomp.com/shop/components...-axle-end-nut/

  195. #795
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    Thanks for the responses. I emailed Surly a bit ago and just got a response from them saying: "The ICT fork will only work with the ICT axle."

    So it seems that Paul axle will work, but man, that's expensive! Just did some more searching and it seems that Paragon makes a bunch of thru axle sizes using the DT RWS mechanism. I need to take some measurements tonight to see if any of those will work, as they are about half the price of the Paul axle, and I prefer the DT RWS mechanism. I will post what i figure out.

  196. #796
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    Bikeny, please see: http://forums.mtbr.com/surly/today-w...l#post12908190

    Cheers.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  197. #797
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    SURLY ICE CREAM TRUCK M | Wakka | 自転車 完成車 カスタ*

    Photo gallery of the new ICT with drop bars. The thing looks sweet!

  198. #798
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phat Cactus View Post
    SURLY ICE CREAM TRUCK M | Wakka | 自転車 完成車 カスタ*

    Photo gallery of the new ICT with drop bars. The thing looks sweet!
    That yellow is growing on me.

  199. #799
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    The Salsa Alternator 190 fits the Ice Cream Truck quite well. There is just enough clearance for the Snowshow 2XL tires on 100 mm rims.
    Surly ICT thread-p1000823.jpg

    Surly ICT thread-p1000825.jpg

    Surly ICT thread-p1000826.jpg
    My outdoor blog: www.yetirides.com

  200. #800
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeny View Post
    Thanks for the responses. I emailed Surly a bit ago and just got a response from them saying: "The ICT fork will only work with the ICT axle."

    So it seems that Paul axle will work, but man, that's expensive! Just did some more searching and it seems that Paragon makes a bunch of thru axle sizes using the DT RWS mechanism. I need to take some measurements tonight to see if any of those will work, as they are about half the price of the Paul axle, and I prefer the DT RWS mechanism. I will post what i figure out.
    So I did some measuring on the ICT fork. Spacing is obviously 150mm, and the fork ends measure 5mm thick on both sides. So the the axle needs to be about 160mm long, not including the threaded portion that will thread into the Paul Components nut.

    The Paragon Machine Works DT025 thru axle is 175mm long from under the skewer head to the end of the axle, with about 15mm threaded portion at the end. That equates to 160mm thru axle portion, perfect! So I ordered one to try out, and already have the Paul nut. I'll report back when I get it to confirm that it actually works.

    Link to the thru axle:

    https://www.paragonmachineworks.com/...tion&key=DT025

    Link to the Paul nut (You want the 15mm one for the fork):

    https://paulcomp.com/shop/components...-axle-end-nut/

    Stay tuned!

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