Sun Ringle tubeless tape not sticking to wheel?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Sun Ringle tubeless tape not sticking to wheel?

    I Cleaned my front wheel with alcohol and the Sun Ringle mule fit tubeless 80 tape stuck great. Went through the same process on the rear wheel but the tape won't stick. I doesn't even stick a little bit. What's the deal? I've cleaned it a few times with alcohol and let in dry for at least 2 hours before trying to stick the tape.

    Brian

  2. #2
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    What type of alcohol did you use? Maybe rinse with water and then try again?

  3. #3
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    I always take a scotch brite pad to the surface first, then clean it (I use brake cleaner, but alcohol will do pretty much the same job, sure).

    Something in the ano (particularly Sun's ano) is super slick till its buffed off a touch.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  4. #4
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    Depending on how wide your rim strip is you might need an extra set of hands to anchor it down along the bead. I found getting it to stick initially was a chore. Once I had enough laid down that I could start applying some stretch it held well. Also, the rim strips that came stock in my bike were a little wider and way more slick than the ones you can buy from Sun. Replacing them helped a lot.

  5. #5
    aka bOb
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    As Mendon said and I will add I use a little heat (hairdryer) when applying the tape, helps make it a little more pliable.

  6. #6
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    Tape

    Quote Originally Posted by brianbmw View Post
    I Cleaned my front wheel with alcohol and the Sun Ringle mule fit tubeless 80 tape stuck great. Went through the same process on the rear wheel but the tape won't stick. I doesn't even stick a little bit. What's the deal? I've cleaned it a few times with alcohol and let in dry for at least 2 hours before trying to stick the tape.

    Brian
    I had similar issue like there was a film of graphite on it or something. I used windex and scrubbed with dish pad. That seemed to help. I still got some creases so I mounted with tube to 25 psi and let it sit and that adhered it nice and snug.

  7. #7
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    I had a few seconds of trouble getting the tape to stick well on one of my wheels as well. However, after pressing about five inches of tape firmly down, I was able to get going. Once the tape was under tension, the process was quick. I do agree that the rim finish is very slick. I used SR's OEM rim strips and the tape did adhere well to them.

  8. #8
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    I also just had this issue. I had a leak were my valve goes through so I took the old tape off and used some new tape that stuck fine since I just removed old tape. But I made a mistake and put the tire on the wrong way so I had to start over! Then the valve started leaking again and I took the tape off but the inside of the rim was slightly wet from stans sealant. I wiped it down with paper towels and that helped a little. It barley stuck and I wrapped enough tape to get all the way around and went a little past were a full 360 wrap. I still didn't get a good seal but surprising it worked!

    Anyone know of the best way to poke through the valve hole to get a tight seal? I used phillips head screw driver both times and then poked the valve through. Seemed to work ok. Also, next time I'll clean with alcohol. Does Isotropic work good?

  9. #9
    Thingamejigger
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thrasher View Post

    Anyone know of the best way to poke through the valve hole to get a tight seal?
    I use a hot screwdriver as you have done, but, I always pack this area out a little with a couple of layers of duct tape or a square of old inner tube before I apply the Mulefat Tape. This makes the area a bit thicker, as with a single skin of ally and a simple rimstrip, you might run out of threads on the valve stem. Just apply lots of pressure with a thumb onto the rubber stem end inside to firmly push home whilst tightening up the lock nut on the outside, a little nip up with a pair of pliers might be needed to get it fully home.

  10. #10
    vmk
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    For the valve hole I use soldering iron.

  11. #11
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    I'm surprised more people don't have this issue with the Ringle rims. Mine were "slick" and the factory applied tape didn't work/adhere. Also, the supplied rim strip was really wide, not leaving enough rim material for the tape to grab onto. After I tore it all down leaving the bare rim, and like others have mentioned, I scuffed up the rim surface but I used a wire wheel on a high speed pneumatic drill, then wiped rim with acetone, and finally, trimmed the rim strip slightly (careful though, go to narrow it won't cover the cutouts) and that worked great. As far as punching a hole, use an awl and heat it up with your lighter first. Gave me such a good seal the tire holds air with no juice, though of course I added it anyway. I am a huge fan of the Ringle rims and find this effort to be 100% worth it, and of course unless you break a spoke you only do it once. IMO, I think the Ringle rims are the best bang for the buck and mix of weight/durability out there. Stoked to see so many of the new Farley's come with that rim. They don't weight that much more than a carbon rim and the money you save is huge.

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