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  1. #1
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    Sub 30lb builds

    How is your below 30lb fattie built? Wanting to build something lighter than my 35lb 2016 Kona Wo. Caveats are Bluto fork and dropper. Two requirements for my riding. I run 4.8JJs tubeless on Mulefuts,unsure I will be happy with the 4.0s but might try them. Have went 1by with a 42 tooth 10spd cassette,gearing seems good enough with 28 chainring for where I ride. Thinking strongly about Corvus frame to start with but if I transfer over the Wo build I might end up with the heaviest Corvus in existence. Maybe there is some hidden boat anchor component on my Wo that I am unaware of,but not wanting to tear it down and weigh everything as I Have sold off my other bikes in anticipation of the next build except a Entourage,which doesnít really trailride worth a damn.

    Just curious how others are putting together light weight hardtail fatbikes,thanks!

    (Note I am not dreaming about 23lb builds,just realistic trail bike fatties,but if you have a super light build post up and I can take cues from it)

  2. #2
    fat guy on a little bike
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    i got my wednesday under 30lbs. but, all the carbon bits on it broke at the most inopportune time and they tried to kill me repeatedly... so now, i am fine with it weighing 34lbs and not being a time bomb.

    my other two bikes are 35lbs and 38lbs, but they don't ride like it..

    good luck!
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  3. #3
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    My Farley 7 is 27.5 lbs with carbon rims but no Bluto or dropper.
    :thumbsup:It doesn't matter what I ride as long as I ride it Rubber Side Down●~●.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by htrdoug View Post
    How is your below 30lb fattie built? Wanting to build something lighter than my 35lb 2016 Kona Wo. Caveats are Bluto fork and dropper. Two requirements for my riding. I run 4.8JJs tubeless on Mulefuts,unsure I will be happy with the 4.0s but might try them. Have went 1by with a 42 tooth 10spd cassette,gearing seems good enough with 28 chainring for where I ride. Thinking strongly about Corvus frame to start with but if I transfer over the Wo build I might end up with the heaviest Corvus in existence. Maybe there is some hidden boat anchor component on my Wo that I am unaware of,but not wanting to tear it down and weigh everything as I Have sold off my other bikes in anticipation of the next build except a Entourage,which doesnít really trailride worth a damn.

    Just curious how others are putting together light weight hardtail fatbikes,thanks!

    (Note I am not dreaming about 23lb builds,just realistic trail bike fatties,but if you have a super light build post up and I can take cues from it)
    That's going to be extremely difficult...not impossible.

    So mine, one of the lighter frames out there, is sub 23lbs in this configuration:

    Sub 30lb builds-01b5516142540b53c9fa651d81d52a859e372413fb.jpg

    Mind you, that's with D4 tires and on those rims they barely come out to about 3.8 or so.

    Then, you want to add a fork that weighs 4.5lb more and add a dropper that adds another pound. This means at least 28.8lbs with what I consider are pretty inadequate tires (where more substantial ones will add half a pound at least.

    As I see it, given a 2.8-3lb frame, you need 500g or lighter rims, there are a few options around 70-80mm that are not heavier than my narrower 65mm, so those may be a better option than my "too narrow" ones. The wheels have to be built fairly light, DT hubs, revolution spokes, etc.

    I don't suggest the Next cranks, I've broken too many, XX1 is much more durable at the same weight IME and I've been converting over my fleet and only have the RF left on this one bike.

    Need a light ~150g type saddle, I love the SLR.

    I built it 1x11, which also saves weight. 1x12 cassettes of all types are boat anchors. This isn't for everyone though, especially on a fat-bike. The SRAM X01 11spd cassette is kind of a gem, light as the XX1 and way way lighter than any 12speed. You could go with say a 30t front rim to help make it work.

    Light brakes like XTR are necessary for this, brakes like Avid mechs are boat-anchors comparatively.

    Don't forget the little things, like foam grips.

    Now, you could still drop weight, depending on how far (crazy) you want to go. Fairly easy stuff is one of those hard-carbon saddles, dropping another 50g or so at least. Lighter pedals like xpedo m force 4 or 8, except mine don't hold tight anymore-there are a few options here though like legeaters, save at least 70g. Lighter (not heavier) tires, which will seriously limit the capability...but will save weight. Berd spokes would save a few more grams, at a huge expense. One-piece syncros handlebar/stem. I have one on my XC bike and it's fantastic. Only saved me 5g from the previous weight-weenie setup, but I gained a huge amount of width and more strength. Going for the more weight-weenie version, you'd undoubtedly save a good amount compared to a more conventional setup, maybe 50g. Same with say the rear derailleur, you might save a couple...just a couple, more grams by going to XX1, but everything in this paragraph wouldn't really compromise the use of the bike, it's just the "next level". After that, it's still possible to save weight...but this is where people get stupid, comparing the weight of bearings for bottom brackets, running parts that are not appropriate or don't function, etc.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  5. #5
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    Sub 30 for a hard tail should not be too hard. My full suspension Bucksaw was 30.34lb with Mammouth/Hodag tires and pedals when I first built it up. Double Jumbo Jims or Juggernauts would have dropped it below. Currently it's at 32.3 ready to ride: bottle cage, GPS, headlight bar mount, small frame pouch with tube and multi-tool plus dirt in all the places.

    Since you do not know what your parts weigh it might be easier for us if you post specs.

    Here it is anyway:
    30.45 lb 13813 g
    Bicycle Type Mountain bike, front suspension
    Sugg Retail $4,999.00
    Weight Unspecified
    Sizes small,
    Colors Transparent Blue

    Frame & Fork
    Frame Construction TIG-welded 2840 g
    Frame Tubing Material Alloy
    Fork Brand & Model Rock Shox Bluto RCT3 100mm 1729 g
    Fork Axle 15x150mm 89 g
    Fork Bumper NA 0 g
    Rear Shock Rock Shox Monarch

    Components
    Component Group
    Front Brake SRAM Guide RSC 287 g
    Rear Brake SRAM Guide RSC 304 g
    Front Rotor SRAM Centerline 200mm 188 g
    Rear Rotor SRAM Centerline 180mm 149 g
    Rotor bolts 12 bolts 26 g
    Front Brake Adapter Shimano 203mm rotor to PM160 fork 35 g
    Rear Brake Adapter Shimano 180mm rotor to IS frame 39 g
    Shift Levers Shimano Rear SL-M980 XTR 10 spd 118 g
    Front Derailleur NA 0 g
    Rear Derailleur Shimano XTR RD-M986 Dyna Sys GS Shadow+ 10spd 209 g
    Crankset Race Face Next SL 170mm x 100mm BB 422 g
    Bottom Bracket Race Face CINCH 30mm BB92 , 124mm x 41mm 85 g
    BB Shell Width 100mm 0 g
    Crank Boots Race Face 16 g
    Front Chainrings Race Face Direct Mount Cinch Narrow Wide 32T 63 g
    Chainring Bolts NA 0 g
    Bash Guard MRP XCG V2 32T ISCG05 90 g
    Rear Cassette Shimano CS-M771-10 11-36T 338 g
    Chain KMX X10.93 270 g
    Seatpost Easton Haven Dropper 31.6x415x125 517 g
    Seatpost boot lefty max 140 34 g
    Seatpost Clamp Salsa Lip-Lock 35.0mm 43 g
    Saddle Ergon SME3-M Pro Carbon (medium 110mm-130mm) 187 g
    Handlebar Answer 20/20 carbon 218 g
    Handlebar Extensions NA 0 g
    Stem Thomson Elite X4 0deg x 80mm x 31.8 157 g
    Headset Cane Creek 40 ZS44/28.6 short upper & ZS56/40 lower 103 g
    Headset Cap & Bolt Cane Creek 17 g
    Headset Spacers FSA aluminum 17 g
    Grips Ergon GP1 BioKork (small) 164 g
    Pedals Shimano PD-M540 349 g
    Star Nut Cane Creek 9 g
    GPS Mount 37 g

    Wheels
    Front hub Hope FatSno 15x150mm 248 g
    Rear hub Hope FatSno 12x177mm 360 g
    Rims Light-Bicycle 26x65mm, 32H glossy uni-directional 508 g
    Rims Light-Bicycle 26x65mm, 32H glossy uni-directional 502 g
    Tires Bontrager Hodag 26x3.8 1210 g
    Tires Maxxis Mamoth 26x4.0 120tpi EXO 1287 g
    Tubes NA 0 g
    Tubes NA 0 g
    Spokes DT Champion 2.0-1.8 x 260mm 376 g
    Spoke Nipples DT 2.0 x 12mm 62 g
    Rim Tape Stans 25mm wide 24 g
    Front Axle (see frame/fork above) 0 g
    Rear Axle Rock Shox 12x177mm TA 87 g

  6. #6
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    The custom-build I am just in the process of completing is based on a 2020 Salsa Beargrease frame set. The carbon wheels are just in the process of being built; running on my old Specialized Fatboy Comp Carbon standard wheels at present (fitted with Duro Fleetwood 26x4.00 semi-slick street tires), and without the tire pump and saddlebag, it weighs 28lbs, 2 ounces ready to ride. The carbon wheels should drop that by about 1.5 lbs based on the last pair of the same wheels I built; I expect it to weigh just under 27 lbs in the same riding configuration.



    I don't use a suspension front fork and the Beargrease is a rigid rear frame. Those together help keep the weight down. This bike is tuned for street and light dirt road use, rather than off-road, rough stuff bashing. It has carbon frame, forks, seat post, steering stem, and handlebars, a lightweight seat, reasonably light and excellent brakes, shifter, etc.

    I geared the build for use mostly on the streets, but it and these tires work well off-pavement on the kinds of hardpack dirt and gravel I occasionally encounter on bike trails. I've had it in deeper mucky stuff once already and it didn't do badly, but I'm not a good judge since I don't ride those environments very often.

    Anyway, it's light and handy for my use, and a pleasure to ride. It was not inexpensive, but everything on it works to my satisfaction and should for a long time to come.

    G

  7. #7
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    I overdid-it a bit above, I was thinking Mastedon, not Bluto...although I'd recommend the Mastedon, but the Bluto will definitely be lighter. RS really needs to do like 34mm stanchions at least. The lightest fat carbon forks are around 550g or so, which means tacking on significant weight for a suspension fork, but not the end of the world, especially if it's a Bluto. I'd go either one of these choices or rigid long before a Lauf or Wren.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  8. #8
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    Sub 30lb builds

    Think mine just came sub 30?

    The current farley 9.6 is but mine has sram x1 vs the heavy nx eagle and i have carbon bars and a post.

    I want to do some carbon hoops eventually

    Sub 25 would be


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  9. #9
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    My Wo current build
    Rock Shox Bluto rct3
    1 by conversion with Kona k-nine bash ring
    42 tooth sunrace 10 spd cassette
    KSLev 125 mm
    Kore Dorox stem 35mm
    Stock Kona handlebars
    slx derail and shift
    Race Face Ride crank and BB
    VP alloy platform pedals
    Magura MT4 brakes and discs
    Mulefuts
    Jumbo Jim 4.8 evo tle pace star set up tubeless
    stock Joytech hubs Have a identical set marked IRD that weigh 480 rear,260 front
    stock 14g spokes
    Salsa seatpost QR
    Amazon saddle because I just broke mt Selle Italia Trans Am


    Original Kona alloy fork weighed 2.5 lbs so weight added with Bluto and dropper fairly well offset by tubeless and 1by conversion,still weighs 35lbs
    Any there notable heavier than average cheapo parts or will I need to lighten 100g at a time? I'm really looking to build new bike but need to know if any parts can be salvaged

  10. #10
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    You'll be lightening 50-100g at a time
    The sunrace cassette is on the heavier side. But wait to upgrade that when it wears out.
    The stock handlebars are probably much heavier than you think they are. There would be a lot of bang for your buck here and it would transfer to any new bike.
    SLX drivetrain is not bad. Upgrade that when something wears out or breaks
    The Ride crankset is a little heavy. You could probably drop 200g there
    Jumbo Jim 4.0s liteskins would save you about 200g each (300g if yours are the snakeskins)
    Front hubs have slim margins

  11. #11
    Thingamejigger
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    I cant recall exactly the number that my bike weighed but its in the 25.5lbs region...

    Frame/Fork: 9:zero:7 Whiteout Carbon

    Wheels: DT Swiss BR710 Rims, DT Swiss 350 xd driver rear hub, Hope Pro 4 front hub, Sapim d-light spokes & brass nipples, Jumbo Jim liteskin 26x4.8 - Tubeless using sunringle tape

    Drivetrain: Raceface Next Crankset, 28t oval wolftooth ring, Sram X01 10-42t cassette, XT 11speed rear mech & shifter, KMC 11EL chain.

    Finishing kit: XT M8000 Brakes, Raceface Next Carbon seatpost, Salsa deluxe bend bar (replaced matching RF next carbon bars that got damaged), ESI extra chunky grips, Thomson 70mm Stem and Thomson seatpost. DMR V12 magnesium pedals.

    Good luck in your quest!

  12. #12
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    Sub 30lb builds

    Mine is sub 25 lbs. This is a Suzi Q 90 RSL with CF wheels and Minions. With the stock Mulefut wheels and studded Gnarwhals it is still under 27 lbs.




    My rides:
    Lynskey Ti Pro29 SS
    RM Suzi Q 90 RSL
    KHS Team 29
    S-Works Roubaix
    KHS CX 550 cyclocross

  13. #13
    cmg
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    32.6 lbs close but no cigar

    ICAN frame 19"
    DT Swiss BR2250 wheelset (710???)
    Maxxis 4.8 FBF & FBR tyres with tubes
    100mm Rockshox Bluto
    Crank Bros 170mm Highline dropper
    RaceFace Aeffect crank 175mm
    Sunrace 10x 11-42 cassette
    XT derallieur
    SLX Brakes 180/160
    normal click pedals shimano PD-??? (cheapest)
    cheapo seat, stem, bar and grips

    as you can see there is heaps of weight to save on mine, it started out all carbon and was extremely light, but then it morphed to a trail bike

    Sub 30lb builds-dsc_1079.jpgSub 30lb builds-dsc_1073.jpgSub 30lb builds-dsc_1074.jpg
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  14. #14
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    My Canyon Dude with Carbon fork out of the box is 26 pounds. So starting with it I could get close to 30 with suspension added. I use it mostly for snow, so I an not changing anything. My last fat bike was like 35 pounds and this is a treat to ride at 26.

  15. #15
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    My specialized fatboy expert is 20.2lbs, with generous amount of sealant in the tires. If I skimped on that could probably be < 20lbs.

    Rigid though, and no dropper, but fun to ride and very capable nonetheless. Could probably add a fork and dropper and still be in the 23lb range probably (?).

    Biggest gains were on wheels and tires. The wheels are 1520g for the set, and tires at about 850g each (Kenda Jugg Pro 4.0").

  16. #16
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    I just don't think its going to happen with Suspension fork, dropper and trail worthy tires. If money is no object then maybe but will it be durable enough to thrash daily? Tough job ahead for sure.

    I use my fat bike for snowy/slushy conditions so a suspension fork isn't needed. Even if I rode it as a trail bike I wouldn't want one. There has been an occasion or three where a dropper would've been nice though.

  17. #17
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    My Wednesday is 28.4lbs, in 29+ mode. Only carbon is the handlebar. I haven't weighed in fat mode recently.
    Jason
    Disclaimer: www.paramountfargo.com

  18. #18
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    Somebody correct me if I'm way off here, but if one was to go to a 26 tooth chain ring and a ll x 42 tooth cassette, you would save about 99 grams over a 30 tooth 11 x 50. Just spinning my wheels while waiting to get out on some trails. I realize that a 30 T chain ring will spin the 11 Tooth cassette a whole lot faster, but I don't care, I'd rather coast down the hill anyway once I'm hitting 30, and I'm riding steeper hills and I like the 26 x 42 ratio.
    Dash Pt. State Park (Tacoma), Big Sky Montana during Snowboard Season, Duluth Mn, a couple of times of year incl. Xmas.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by EdSawyer View Post
    My specialized fatboy expert is 20.2lbs, with generous amount of sealant in the tires. If I skimped on that could probably be < 20lbs.

    Rigid though, and no dropper, but fun to ride and very capable nonetheless. Could probably add a fork and dropper and still be in the 23lb range probably

    Biggest gains were on wheels and tires. The wheels are 1520g for the set, and tires at about 850g each (Kenda Jugg Pro 4.0").

    Wheel build specs?

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmg View Post
    32.6 lbs close but no cigar

    ICAN frame 19"
    DT Swiss BR2250 wheelset (710???)
    Maxxis 4.8 FBF & FBR tyres with tubes
    100mm Rockshox Bluto
    Crank Bros 170mm Highline dropper
    RaceFace Aeffect crank 175mm
    Sunrace 10x 11-42 cassette
    XT derallieur
    SLX Brakes 180/160
    normal click pedals shimano PD-??? (cheapest)
    cheapo seat, stem, bar and grips

    as you can see there is heaps of weight to save on mine, it started out all carbon and was extremely light, but then it morphed to a trail bike

    Click image for larger version. 

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    With the JumboJims I can get by with your build would be close enough!

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by gdb85 View Post
    I just don't think its going to happen with Suspension fork, dropper and trail worthy tires. If money is no object then maybe but will it be durable enough to thrash daily? Tough job ahead for sure.

    I use my fat bike for snowy/slushy conditions so a suspension fork isn't needed. Even if I rode it as a trail bike I wouldn't want one. There has been an occasion or three where a dropper would've been nice though.

    Not even going to attempt it with My present frame,in the end I want to have 2 fatbikes,setting up the Kona for wretched conditions(have lots of private property spots I can ride in all weather)And then a light speedy fatbike for public trails. When the time comes for the Kona muddier rebuild I will start another thread (-;
    Last edited by htrdoug; 04-14-2020 at 02:22 AM.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bumpyride View Post
    Somebody correct me if I'm way off here, but if one was to go to a 26 tooth chain ring and a ll x 42 tooth cassette, you would save about 99 grams over a 30 tooth 11 x 50. Just spinning my wheels while waiting to get out on some trails. I realize that a 30 T chain ring will spin the 11 Tooth cassette a whole lot faster, but I don't care, I'd rather coast down the hill anyway once I'm hitting 30, and I'm riding steeper hills and I like the 26 x 42 ratio.
    While I have never spent over 80 bucks on a cassette the X01 11 speed shows 275 grams on Universal cycles site,maybe worth the extra 180 dollars to loose 200 grams vs. a SunRace...

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by htrdoug View Post
    With the JumboJims I can get by with your build would be close enough!
    Tubless would surely help too
    always mad and usually drunk......

  24. #24
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    Wheel specs for a 1520g set: HED big deal rims, Tune fat king/fat kong (150/197), berd spokes.

  25. #25
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    I just tare the scale with a 7 lb dumbbell first .
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by htrdoug View Post
    While I have never spent over 80 bucks on a cassette the X01 11 speed shows 275 grams on Universal cycles site,maybe worth the extra 180 dollars to loose 200 grams vs. a SunRace...
    OK but just don't eat a burger when you want to go out and ride.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by htrdoug View Post
    While I have never spent over 80 bucks on a cassette the X01 11 speed shows 275 grams on Universal cycles site,maybe worth the extra 180 dollars to loose 200 grams vs. a SunRace...
    I've measured multiple of them, they are 265g by my scales. Exactly the same as the XX1, just a different finish. I think they list the 275 to make them seem more distant.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  28. #28
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    Sub 30lb builds

    Quote Originally Posted by EdSawyer View Post
    My specialized fatboy expert is 20.2lbs, with generous amount of sealant in the tires. If I skimped on that could probably be < 20lbs.

    Rigid though, and no dropper, but fun to ride and very capable nonetheless. Could probably add a fork and dropper and still be in the 23lb range probably (?).

    Biggest gains were on wheels and tires. The wheels are 1520g for the set, and tires at about 850g each (Kenda Jugg Pro 4.0").
    Wow, I did not realize those tires are that light. The Minions are almost 2 lbs heavier.

    On the other hand, they are bombproof.
    My rides:
    Lynskey Ti Pro29 SS
    RM Suzi Q 90 RSL
    KHS Team 29
    S-Works Roubaix
    KHS CX 550 cyclocross

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by serious View Post
    Wow, I did not realize those tires are that light. The Minions are almost 2 lbs heavier.

    On the other hand, they are bombproof.
    The kendas are terrible, all they will do is make your bike lighter. Not faster.

  30. #30
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    Hmm. This is my wheel weight data ...

    My wheels are 26 in x 90mm BTLOS carbon two-layer rims, capable of handling 30psi, laced to Onyx Racing hubs (which are known to be a little heavier than some of the competing offerings). They're fitted with Duro Fleetwood 26x4.00 semi-slick tires. I run them with Surly Toobs for 26 x 3.8-4.5 tires.

    The OEM front & rear being called out are the 2017 Specialized Fatboy Comp Carbon wheels which came on my last bike.

    OEM rear 3148g - Carbon rear 3040g
    OEM front 3175g - Carbon front 2780g

    Differences:
    R -108g
    F -395g

    The Surly toobs weigh ~300g apiece, the Duro Fleetwood tires weigh ~1250g apiece.

    Since I ride primarily on the street and don't have many issues with flats, I find keeping the tubes to be a practical advantage in maintenance and repair. Going tubeless would save 300g on the tube itself, but add probably 50g or so worth of sealant, so the additional savings possible from doing that comes to something around a half a pound per wheel, a pound overall. That would be nice, but to me isn't worth the difference to an 8 minute tire repair with no messy sealant requiring maintenance.

    Going to the carbon rims from the alloy rims nets a pound less, but most importantly it's a pound at the periphery of the wheel and is easily felt in spin up, braking, and responsiveness on cornering. The Onyx hubs, while a little heavy, are really nicely sealed for dust and water, and the rear's free hub is completely silent and has zero lash ... both nice things.

    G

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by joeduda View Post
    The kendas are terrible, all they will do is make your bike lighter. Not faster.
    I am all for lighter setup, but I am afraid of flimsy tires on a fat bike because they are not the easiest to remove/install, especially in the winter. And with CF rims, I use no tools.

    So I rely on sealant and the Lezyne Tubeless Repair Kit. If that fails, I am walking, I guess.
    My rides:
    Lynskey Ti Pro29 SS
    RM Suzi Q 90 RSL
    KHS Team 29
    S-Works Roubaix
    KHS CX 550 cyclocross

  32. #32
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    I find the Kendas to be fine so far. Lately just been riding them on trails, not snow as much, though they do fine on groomed trails (snow) too from my limited experience. I also have JJ 4.0 and Wrathlordes for different conditions.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by joeduda View Post
    The kendas are terrible, all they will do is make your bike lighter. Not faster.
    I am all for lighter setup, but I am afraid of flimsy tires on a fat bike because they are not the easiest to remove/install, especially in the winter. And with CF rims, I use no tools.

    So I rely on sealant and the Lezyne Tubeless Repair Kit. If that fails, I am walking, I guess.
    My rides:
    Lynskey Ti Pro29 SS
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  34. #34
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    My Borealis is 25.5 lbs. XX1 1x11 drivetrain, XT brakes, I9 hubs with Whisky carbon rims, RaceFace Next carbon seatpost/bars, RaceFace Next SL crankset. 45NRTH Vanhelga tires.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by serious View Post
    I am all for lighter setup, but I am afraid of flimsy tires on a fat bike because they are not the easiest to remove/install, especially in the winter. And with CF rims, I use no tools.

    So I rely on sealant and the Lezyne Tubeless Repair Kit. If that fails, I am walking, I guess.
    Hmm. I haven't had any problem removing or installing the Duro Fleetwood tires on my bike. I just use my thumbs: they come right off and go right back on (with tubes). I've done a flat repair (pull wheel, find puncture, clean out cause, repair tube, replace) in about 10 minutes.

    G

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by ramarren View Post
    Hmm. I haven't had any problem removing or installing the Duro Fleetwood tires on my bike. I just use my thumbs: they come right off and go right back on (with tubes). I've done a flat repair (pull wheel, find puncture, clean out cause, repair tube, replace) in about 10 minutes.

    G

    Are your rims tubeless ready?Are the Duro tires tubeless design? The tight bead on tubeless makes it tough to pop it loose.

  37. #37
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    Corvus frame arrived today,1700g w/o axle. Will take a bit of time to switchover but will get weight of bare Wo frame when that happens. Looks like a million bucks so I will need to apply plenty of frame protection. Have GX cranks coming but other than that want to build it with all the rest of the Wo components for a accurate comparison.

  38. #38
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    My 2014 Salsa Mukluk is 28.5
    Aluminum frame, carbon fork
    27.5 x 4.5 tires on carbon rims
    Gravity Dropper post
    Carbon bars, XT etc.
    No super light bits. I am not afraid to ride it hard.Sub 30lb builds-img_0414.jpg
    I don't see how you could keep this at or below 30 with a Bluto.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captain_America1976 View Post
    My 2014 Salsa Mukluk is 28.5
    Aluminum frame, carbon fork
    27.5 x 4.5 tires on carbon rims
    Gravity Dropper post
    Carbon bars, XT etc.
    No super light bits. I am not afraid to ride it hard.Click image for larger version. 

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    I don't see how you could keep this at or below 30 with a Bluto.

    Bluto weight offset with carbon fiber frame would probably do it.

  40. #40
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    Sub 30lb builds-img_4902.jpg

    My size large Lynskey Fatskey is right at 30lbs. Literally half of that is in the wheels/tires that I have on it. A tubeless carbon setup would save a lot.

    I picked up a friend's newer full carbon Fatboy and that thing was ridiculously light for a fat bike.

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by sns1294 View Post
    I picked up a friend's newer full carbon Fatboy and that thing was ridiculously light for a fat bike.
    Yup, my aluminum framed XL Fatboy was 30lbs right out of the shop.

  42. #42
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    Great first ride on Corvus.lost 3 lbs with the direct frame swap(cranks upgraded to GX for fit at same time) Happy with that but still 2 lbs to drop yet. Once Entourage sell will have wheel money which should put me close. Stock Kona Wo wheelset is Joytech hubs,14g spokes,Mulefut rims. Donít know what they weigh but quite a bit Iíd think.
    I am really surprised at how much more compliant the ride of the CF Corvus is vs the alloy frame Wo, might have screwed myself on riding the Wo after it gets built up into an adverse weather ride. I havenít picked out tires yet but JJs are so nice for our trails itíll be hard to change to anything else! I will be building some 27.5 wheels up for the Wo due to the dirt cheap price of Alex Blizzerk 70s. Might try Hodags or May go for the aggressive tread Van Helgas on those, the wheels I will build up will convert to the same axle as the Corvus easily,just this set wonít be A weight conscious build. Sub 30lb builds-cf808a0d-1c5b-4d65-8b79-a92dbd502113.jpg

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by htrdoug View Post
    Great first ride on Corvus.lost 3 lbs with the direct frame swap(cranks upgraded to GX for fit at same time) Happy with that but still 2 lbs to drop yet. Once Entourage sell will have wheel money which should put me close. Stock Kona Wo wheelset is Joytech hubs,14g spokes,Mulefut rims. Donít know what they weigh but quite a bit Iíd think.
    I am really surprised at how much more compliant the ride of the CF Corvus is vs the alloy frame Wo, might have screwed myself on riding the Wo after it gets built up into an adverse weather ride. I havenít picked out tires yet but JJs are so nice for our trails itíll be hard to change to anything else! I will be building some 27.5 wheels up for the Wo due to the dirt cheap price of Alex Blizzerk 70s. Might try Hodags or May go for the aggressive tread Van Helgas on those, the wheels I will build up will convert to the same axle as the Corvus easily,just this set wonít be A weight conscious build. Click image for larger version. 

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    The difference in weight between Nextie and Mulefut rims is approximately .88 lbs for the pair.
    Dash Pt. State Park (Tacoma), Big Sky Montana during Snowboard Season, Duluth Mn, a couple of times of year incl. Xmas.

  44. #44
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    Big Su rims 380 grams less a pair than Mulefut,DTSwiss 350 are about 250g less than stock Joytech,plus whatever dB spokes weigh less than 14g spokes. Maybe 1.5 lb drop. Have heavy saddle on right now 200g saddle in order so another 1/4 lb off. Very close even with 4.8 JJ tires

  45. #45
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    My Borealis Yampa is 27 lbs. with dropper post and Surly Buds front & rear. It could easily be 25 lbs with lighter tires and a carbon post but some things are not worth compromising.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Sub 30lb builds-img_6962.jpg  

    Sub 30lb builds-img_6963.jpg  


  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by htrdoug View Post
    Great first ride on Corvus.lost 3 lbs with the direct frame swap(cranks upgraded to GX for fit at same time) Happy with that but still 2 lbs to drop yet. Once Entourage sell will have wheel money which should put me close. Stock Kona Wo wheelset is Joytech hubs,14g spokes,Mulefut rims. Donít know what they weigh but quite a bit Iíd think.
    I am really surprised at how much more compliant the ride of the CF Corvus is vs the alloy frame Wo, might have screwed myself on riding the Wo after it gets built up into an adverse weather ride. I havenít picked out tires yet but JJs are so nice for our trails itíll be hard to change to anything else! I will be building some 27.5 wheels up for the Wo due to the dirt cheap price of Alex Blizzerk 70s. Might try Hodags or May go for the aggressive tread Van Helgas on those, the wheels I will build up will convert to the same axle as the Corvus easily,just this set wonít be A weight conscious build. Click image for larger version. 

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    Congrats

    are you tubless? I know my tubes are 400grms each, plus l added milk due to having several flats in a week, and fattie tubes arent cheap and since the milk was added l havent had a problem
    always mad and usually drunk......

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmg View Post
    Congrats

    are you tubless? I know my tubes are 400grms each, plus l added milk due to having several flats in a week, and fattie tubes arent cheap and since the milk was added l havent had a problem
    First thing I did when I got the Wo was convert to tubeless, best thing you can do for a fatbike.

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by htrdoug View Post
    First thing I did when I got the Wo was convert to tubeless, best thing you can do for a fatbike.
    Yeah l tried, but my FBF & FBR arent the tubeless versions, l stuffed around for hours before l threw in the towel, the next ones when l need them will be the tubeless version
    always mad and usually drunk......

  49. #49
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    So has anyone reached the sub 30# mark matching the constraints by the OP (suspension fork and dropper post)?

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shooter McGavin View Post
    So has anyone reached the sub 30# mark matching the constraints by the OP (suspension fork and dropper post)?
    I will for sure get there,at 32 lbs right now with the wheels off of the Wo,Mulefuts/Joytech/straight gauge spoke,and other not light pieces. I will likely still be able to run my 4.8 Jumbo Jims too.

  51. #51
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    Sub 30lb builds

    My full suspension build was just above 30. With the tire swaps I mentioned it could lose up to another 1.5.

    See post 5 above. Take everything there, put it on a hard tail frame and youíll be below 30.

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by bme107 View Post
    My full suspension build was just above 30. With the tire swaps I mentioned it could lose up to another 1.5.

    See post 5 above. Take everything there, put it on a hard tail frame and youíll be below 30.
    Dont eat will save you some more grams.

    Going tubeless is good too.
    Take off any unused bolts, water cage.

  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shooter McGavin View Post
    So has anyone reached the sub 30# mark matching the constraints by the OP (suspension fork and dropper post)?
    Sure, easily. What's a Mastodon, like 4-5 lbs? 1 lb for a dropper? I'd be there with at least 5lbs to spare or more.

  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by EdSawyer View Post
    Sure, easily. What's a Mastodon, like 4-5 lbs? 1 lb for a dropper? I'd be there with at least 5lbs to spare or more.
    At what cost?

  55. #55
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    My Pugs

    Sub 30lb builds-pugsweighed1.jpgSub 30lb builds-pugsweighed2.jpg
    29.8 lbs with 1 bottle cage and pedals

    Steel frame and offset fork, size large
    Light bicycle 65mm rims, DT Swiss 240 rear, Paul Components SS as front, Double butted spokes and brass nipples
    Van Helgas, tubeless with probably too much sealant
    Race Face Next SL cranks w/ 32t dm Chromag 6mm offset ring, couple years old
    Gravity Dropper 100mm dropper seatpost with remote
    WTB Volt saddle, nothing fancy
    Shimano XT Brakes w/ 180mm rotors, 11 speed 11-42 cassette, derailleur, rear shifter, and pedals
    Answer Carbon 31.mm x 720mm Handle Bars
    Thomson 80mm stem
    Oury grips
    Cane creek 110 headset
    Wheels Mfg BB

  56. #56
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    29 lb 13 oz Farley

    My Farley is a carbon extra large frame with a fork and dropper
    Sub 30lb builds-farley-weight.jpg
    Sub 30lb builds-farley.jpg


    The build:
    Manitou Pro standard fork set up for 130 travel
    Race Face Turbine stem
    Race Face Next carbon bar 720 mm
    Knog Oi bike bell
    Shimano XT brake levers
    Shimano XT 4 piston brakes
    Shimano Ice Tech rotors, 180 front and 160 rear
    Selle Italia Flite saddle
    KS Lev CI carbon 150 mm dropper post
    KS Southpaw carbon dropper lever
    Race Face Turbine cranks 175 mm
    Xpedo Spry magnesium platform pedals
    Wheels thread together bottom bracket
    Absolute Black oval chainring
    Shimano chain
    Shimano XT 11-46 11 speed cassette
    Shimano XT medium cage derailler
    HED Big Half Deal 80 mm carbon rims with HED brickhouse carbon hubs
    Bontrager Barbegazi tires, tubless, front and rear
    2 King Cage titanium bottle cages
    Lenzyne Gauge Drive HV pump and mount

    This bike is a blast! (sorry I can't get the photos right side up)

  57. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aptone View Post
    My Farley is a carbon extra large frame with a fork and dropper
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    The build:
    Manitou Pro standard fork set up for 130 travel
    Race Face Turbine stem
    Race Face Next carbon bar 720 mm
    Knog Oi bike bell
    Shimano XT brake levers
    Shimano XT 4 piston brakes
    Shimano Ice Tech rotors, 180 front and 160 rear
    Selle Italia Flite saddle
    KS Lev CI carbon 150 mm dropper post
    KS Southpaw carbon dropper lever
    Race Face Turbine cranks 175 mm
    Xpedo Spry magnesium platform pedals
    Wheels thread together bottom bracket
    Absolute Black oval chainring
    Shimano chain
    Shimano XT 11-46 11 speed cassette
    Shimano XT medium cage derailler
    HED Big Half Deal 80 mm carbon rims with HED brickhouse carbon hubs
    Bontrager Barbegazi tires, tubless, front and rear
    2 King Cage titanium bottle cages
    Lenzyne Gauge Drive HV pump and mount

    This bike is a blast! (sorry I can't get the photos right side up)


    Nice build! So basically carbon frame,wheels,bars,then whatever you like the performance of and you end up under 30 (-:

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by htrdoug View Post
    Nice build! So basically carbon frame,wheels,bars,then whatever you like the performance of and you end up under 30 (-:
    Carbon frame and wheels are the foundation for sure, but I would not say whatever you like for the rest. There is nothing heavy on the bike ('cept the Manitou Mastadon). Everything counts!

  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aptone View Post
    Carbon frame and wheels are the foundation for sure, but I would not say whatever you like for the rest. There is nothing heavy on the bike ('cept the Manitou Mastadon). Everything counts!

    Was thinking Mastadon plus XT and non carbon cranks meant performance preferences mattered over weight savings,kinda thought you just put together what you liked and it just happened to work out it ended up under 30. Carbon wheelset not in my future but will go as light as I can but quality will be foremost. As soon as I get a chance I have all the parts to build a set of Middliní weight 27.5s up and will be able to decide which I like better before doing a lightweight wheel build.

  60. #60
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    Yes, performance matters, but weight savings improves performance. Its a balancing act, eh? Being a data geek, I make spreadsheets and looked at weights of different components versus cost. When making decisions it can be helpful to look at the incremental cost per ounce of weight savings. For example: the Absolute Black aluminum chainring costs $45 more than a steel one but saves 3 ounces, so the savings is at only $15/ounce. That is cheap weight savings.

    I was looking at carbon cranks but it is hard to find 180 mm cranks for fat bikes Lightning has them but but I did not like their spider and no direct mount option, and I was not ready to spend big money on 175 mm cranks. Maybe if I find something in the future.

    Some things are not a compromise between performance and weight. The Barbegazi tires are awesome and are light. Going tubeless is also a slam dunk. I love the Xpedo Spry pedals, they are super light, and pretty cheap too.

    Choosing the Mastadon was a compromise. I weigh 230 and had heard the Bluto was flexy and the Lauf was bouncy. I ride the fatty year round so I do want good performance.

    Using the $/oz saved metric, you get a lot of value for your money going from Deore to XT, but not as much making the jump to XTR or other exotic boutique brands. I have some XTR stuff on my 24 lb single speed, and it is great, but unfortunately I do not have unlimited funds.

    I built this carbon Farley by buying a used demo Farley 5, riding it for a year, then buying the carbon frame and Manitou and building it with the with the Farley 5 parts. Over time I was able to buy better components and put the old stuff back on the Farley 5. This approach spread out the cost, I was able to ride the whole time, and it is fun to hunt for the next ounce of weight savings while looking for new parts.

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aptone View Post
    Yes, performance matters, but weight savings improves performance. Its a balancing act, eh? Being a data geek, I make spreadsheets and looked at weights of different components versus cost. When making decisions it can be helpful to look at the incremental cost per ounce of weight savings. For example: the Absolute Black aluminum chainring costs $45 more than a steel one but saves 3 ounces, so the savings is at only $15/ounce. That is cheap weight savings.

    I was looking at carbon cranks but it is hard to find 180 mm cranks for fat bikes Lightning has them but but I did not like their spider and no direct mount option, and I was not ready to spend big money on 175 mm cranks. Maybe if I find something in the future.

    Some things are not a compromise between performance and weight. The Barbegazi tires are awesome and are light. Going tubeless is also a slam dunk. I love the Xpedo Spry pedals, they are super light, and pretty cheap too.

    Choosing the Mastadon was a compromise. I weigh 230 and had heard the Bluto was flexy and the Lauf was bouncy. I ride the fatty year round so I do want good performance.

    Using the $/oz saved metric, you get a lot of value for your money going from Deore to XT, but not as much making the jump to XTR or other exotic boutique brands. I have some XTR stuff on my 24 lb single speed, and it is great, but unfortunately I do not have unlimited funds.

    I built this carbon Farley by buying a used demo Farley 5, riding it for a year, then buying the carbon frame and Manitou and building it with the with the Farley 5 parts. Over time I was able to buy better components and put the old stuff back on the Farley 5. This approach spread out the cost, I was able to ride the whole time, and it is fun to hunt for the next ounce of weight savings while looking for new parts.
    Hard to tell any difference between 175 and 180mm cranks, other than banging the 180's on more rocks and roots. Next SL 175's are great because you can swap spindles to use them on other bikes.

    Depending on where you ride your fattie, you can definitely get away with a rigid carbon fork - certainly I do in the winter. I use a Bluto occasionally, but rarely.

    Also, tires are not a great place to save weight if you ride in the winter. Studs are heavy AF but man, do they ever work well.

    It all starts with a great frame - I could not be happier with my Borealis.

    On the wheelset front, I built myself a set of I9/Whisky wheels, that are light and bombproof.

    Other carbon stuff (seatpost, bars, fork), and an XX1 drivetrain.

    I haven't weight it recently but it's somewhere between 25 and 26 lbs with Vanhelgas and a bit heavier with studded Wrathchilds.

  62. #62
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    The only time I have ever wanted my fatty lighter is when I get to the hike a bike on Laurel Mountain. Otherwise it's a non issue

  63. #63
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    If you are on a XL you are definitely in need of a stiff fork,being taller puts more leverage on the suspension and flex become more objectionable,at 5í9Ē I ride mediums and can get by with a Bluto just fine,plus I am not hitting it like I used to 15 years ago...
    My 61 year old knees are surely liking the 165mm cranks I used,I can put 2 more teeth on the crank plus riding in smaller cogs to. Feels like it just glides up hill,so much so I swapped to 165 cranks on my road bike,again pulling 2 more teeth on all the chainrings. I also went the route of buying a used Kona Wo demo and have swapped most of the build onto the Corvus,in the process of rebuilding the Wo into a mudder before going back onto upgrading the Corvus.

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