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  1. #1
    Vaginatarian
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    studded fat tires?

    anyone have good results?
    any rumors of factory made

  2. #2
    mtbr member
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    Check my previous posts. I have had excellent results with studded endomorphs and Larrys. No evidence that they will be commercially available in the near future.

  3. #3
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    I have had excellent results also.. and I have previously posted info also..

  4. #4
    will rant for food
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    I also have posted on this, ^ both these guys posts have value.

    One thing I experienced in my own studded Larry endeavor is that some car studs will poke out too far and could probably use a soft washer on the inside to make the carrier flush. See problem here.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
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    The big thread about studding fat tires from last year is here http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/sho...st7280913.html

    I had good results with the set screws that I used, but the stainless steel is too soft. I ride a 1/2 mile of pavement between my house and the snowmobile trails at the beginning and end of most rides. The stainless cone point set screws rounded off pretty quickly, especially the two rows closest to the center. If I were to do it again, I would use the flat tipped (half dog point) alloy steel set screws that Fenlasen went with. I only had one set screw pull out, but I would go with the 1/4" over the 3/16" screws that I used last time. Both are short enough to be fully embedded in the casing and not touch the tube - no need for protective tape or glue. I might upgrade the screws on the center two rows of my tires this winter.

    I didn't do a ton of ice riding last winter, but the studs definitely saved me a few times. They don't grip on ice as well as a skinny studded tire (probably because the load is spread out, putting less pressure on each stud), but for situations like climbs with ice patches and off camber braking descents that turn icy, they are enough to keep you from spinning out of going down.

  6. #6
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    I have some post's out there somewhere on this as well. Often times some "slick ice" on my winter routes. I use the tried & true sheet metal screws. Small ones, #6's x 3/8" I think... on Endos. They only stick out a little bit... 1/8" +/-...I don't want them boggin' me down and I only want them to come into play on the Ice. It's true, not so good on pavement (for the studs or the pavement), but they do handle dirt and gravel sections fine and if you keep 'em sharp, it's hard to beat they're performance on ice! Probably the most affordable method too and easy (and cheap) to change out.

  7. #7
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    Here's a video of my first "fat" set of studs. These worked fine on my Large marge rims but slipped around in the corners on the 100's... due to the "flatter" tread profile. So I've since added another row to the outside (2 rows actually, one each side). Now they grip just about anything.
    <iframe width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/ZN0DXeW_t1k" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by VT Mike View Post
    The big thread about studding fat tires from last year is here http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/sho...st7280913.html

    I had good results with the set screws that I used, but the stainless steel is too soft. I ride a 1/2 mile of pavement between my house and the snowmobile trails at the beginning and end of most rides. The stainless cone point set screws rounded off pretty quickly, especially the two rows closest to the center. If I were to do it again, I would use the flat tipped (half dog point) alloy steel set screws that Fenlasen went with. I only had one set screw pull out, but I would go with the 1/4" over the 3/16" screws that I used last time. Both are short enough to be fully embedded in the casing and not touch the tube - no need for protective tape or glue. I might upgrade the screws on the center two rows of my tires this winter.

    I didn't do a ton of ice riding last winter, but the studs definitely saved me a few times. They don't grip on ice as well as a skinny studded tire (probably because the load is spread out, putting less pressure on each stud), but for situations like climbs with ice patches and off camber braking descents that turn icy, they are enough to keep you from spinning out of going down.
    I myself did go with the little longer screws as Mike recommended. I was worried about wearing my screws down, and would not do much for road riding with them, but mine look good after a full season on them. [They have been ridden on the some road shoulder some] I would say my set up, grips a little better than my Nokians, but not as good as our previous homemade set up with lots of really sharp screws.

    I am very pleased with them, and at the moment can't think of anything I would change about them.

  9. #9
    bikeboatbrewski
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    zip ties

  10. #10
    will rant for food
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    ^ Has anyone seriously tried that for fatties? I imagine they'd be all kinds of weird at anything other than quite firm pressure.

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