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Thread: Studded

  1. #1
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    Studded

    Hey all,
    I've never ridden in the winter and have been curious about studded tires. Do you want them on the front and back or just the back for power and traction? I don't plan on riding on ice but fresh snow would be a blast.
    cederic

    2017 Salsa Beargrease
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  2. #2
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    For just fresh snow, if you can fit them bud and Lou with grip studs. If your positive no ice, just go bud and Lou and be done.

    If your limited to non 5 inch tires, that will have to be someone else's domain of knowledge.

  3. #3
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    I will never go without studs again, it's usually the ice under the snow that you can't see that will put you on your shoulder in a quick hurry. I figure they are cheaper than a trip to the E.R. Oh and if decide you want them I would recommend front and back.

  4. #4
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    Front and back with studs. Your front tire slipping out is generally worse than the back.

  5. #5
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    Even on hardpack I find they are very helpful, making your ride closer to summer speeds/cornering, etc. If it's a real warm climate where ice is not possible because the snow is usually gone after a few days, probably not worth it, but if it's a place where the snow is in place for months on end, there's going to be ice in places too, the studs are well worth it.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  6. #6
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    Dillinger 4 seem to be the gold standard tire up here and account for about 60-70 % of the studded fat bike tires up here.

    The dillinger 5 is also popular but close to 500 a set, they are a do everything ok tire.

    No notion of the studded terrene tires, until the Johnny came out they offered nothing interesting at still a high price point.

    Vee xl studded were easily the worst fat bike tires I've purchased, rumor is the psc are better but I'd still not bother.
    Vee snowavalanche in psc is what we have on our spare bikes, they were cheap. They roll like a heavy dillinger 5, advertised as heavy and were still well over weight. Bought 3 sets on sale this summer for just a smidge over what dilli 5s are. On a tight budget they aren't bad.

    Maybe others will comment on the wrathchild and bontrager stud options.

  7. #7
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    Wrathchild? D5 casing size but a much angrier tire. Way more grip in loose conditions, makes a ripping and tearing sound on ice. The XL studs have incredible ice grip (I havenít lost any so far...). Not the same level of floatation or lateral/cornering traction as Bud on loose snow.

    When conditions are good I love how fast a Dillinger rolls. Otherwise I choose more aggro traction tires for most of my riding.

  8. #8
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    Used to think they were to expensive, then I hit the deck and screwed up my knee for 6 months, then I thought they were a bargain.

    Front and rear, and in a perfect world, keep 'em on a second set of wheels so you won't have a reason not to use them, and avoid hitting the deck.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Comfisherman View Post
    Dillinger 4 seem to be the gold standard tire up here and account for about 60-70 % of the studded fat bike tires up here.

    The dillinger 5 is also popular but close to 500 a set, they are a do everything ok tire.
    And for the record, I got D5s first, then went and bought D4s the next year as "racing tires" for harder pack races where I wanted a lighter tire and less resistance.

    I tried to run the D4s several times, during a few races and just during some rides.

    The tires left me completely underwhelmed and I guess it's better than nothing, but IMO there's a world of difference between. When conditions are hard and there is little snow the D5s are so much better due to more air volume. When it's softer they are better due to more traction, like pedaling through turns vs. having to coast and concentrate on not slipping. When it's DH they are funner. IME, I never found a redeeming quality with the D4. I chock it up to "it's all we had". I had the choice to use the D4 all the time and I never did, it just didn't work anywhere near as good. There was more "value" in the $500 D5s than the $400 D4s. Prices have come down a bit though, the local shop is selling D5s for significantly less than the $500 when they first came out.

    For over 3 seasons the D5s have served me well. I'm going to move them to secondary use and try J5s as my primary now. Now that there are some more aggressive tires in this width, I'm not so sure I'd get the D5s again, but hands down one of the best things I've ever purchased.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  10. #10
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    Nobody tried the gnarwhal bontrager 26X3.8? What do you think of this tire?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fatalpine View Post
    Nobody tried the gnarwhal bontrager 26X3.8? What do you think of this tire?
    Sure, try this:

    http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/stu...a-1060359.html

  12. #12
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    I think a grip studded set of bud/lou tires is the most versatile combination you can get. You definitely want both front and rear tires studded. Grip studs are less expensive off eBay than other places but they still are not cheap. None of the presently available factory studded tires are as wide as a bud/lou.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Snowfat View Post
    None of the presently available factory studded tires are as wide as a bud/lou.
    Didn't we come to the conclusion that these are about the same size as Bud/Lou?

    https://terrenetires.com/pages/johnny5

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by MaximumX View Post
    Didn't we come to the conclusion that these are about the same size as Bud/Lou?

    https://terrenetires.com/pages/johnny5
    "presently available" is the key phrase. Granted, it appears J5's should be available in days.

    The J5 should beat a bud/lou hands down for a studded tire. Grip studs are okay but WAY pricey at ~$1/each. The J5 has 320 studs per tire and the studded tire runs $325/tire for early adopters. As expensive as that is it is still way cheaper than buying a bud +lou + 640 grip studs + hours to install them. Now I said "should", we will have to see how the J5's perform in the wild before any real conclusions can be made.

  15. #15
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    Thanks everyone, good info...

    I'm stuck with a max width of 4.6 on my 80mm rims. I will keep looking but it looks like a pair of Dillinger 4's in 4" for $150 a pop will be my choice. Not hitting the ground from ice at my age makes it worth the cash. Ha, it makes me hurt when a CornHusker take a big hit. Thanks again folks...
    cederic

    2017 Salsa Beargrease
    2012 Fuji Absolute 3.0 Road Bike
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  16. #16
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    Iím not sure what your local snow or trails are like but if youíre limited for space in the rear you can always run a 4Ē in the back and something a bit wider or knobbier in the front. You did mention fresh snow: I used to run a set of D4 and found them nice and fast rolling on packed trails and decent on ice patches. I wasnít terribly impressed in fresh loose snow. YMMV.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by cederic View Post
    Thanks everyone, good info...

    I'm stuck with a max width of 4.6 on my 80mm rims. I will keep looking but it looks like a pair of Dillinger 4's in 4" for $150 a pop will be my choice. Not hitting the ground from ice at my age makes it worth the cash. Ha, it makes me hurt when a CornHusker take a big hit. Thanks again folks...
    I am similarly limited in size on the rear of my Otso. I would suggest going with a Dillinger 5 in front. They have larger lugs that help reduce washout during cornering.

  18. #18
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    4.6Ē should be plenty to run a D5.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    4.6Ē should be plenty to run a D5.
    I would not assume so as it is not the case on my Otso, even with 65mm internal width rims. The OP certainly could try, but I would only buy one, try it and if it does not fit, move it to the front.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueCheesehead View Post
    I would not assume so as it is not the case on my Otso, even with 65mm internal width rims. The OP certainly could try, but I would only buy one, try it and if it does not fit, move it to the front.
    I ran them on my 177mm rear end LaMere with maybe .25" of clearance on each side, since they run so straight tubeless it worked out beautifully. I think they measured an actual 4.4" or so on my 90mm rims.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  21. #21
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    Iíve been satisfied with a set of 4.8 minions with around 100 gripstuds per. Enough of a safety margin to enjoy variable snow conditions. Lake ice is rideable but forget about railing turns; for that koldcutters would be best. Ideally, I would have them mounted on a second wheelset because studs are not helpful when we get a warm up and the trails go back to bare rock.
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    I ran them on my 177mm rear end LaMere with maybe .25" of clearance on each side, since they run so straight tubeless it worked out beautifully. I think they measured an actual 4.4" or so on my 90mm rims.
    While I cannot find the width spec on the LaMere bottom bracket, I would expect that if it is a standard fat bike width then I can see how a D5 would work fine. The narrow BB of the Otso makes it a no go in stock configuration and only possible with some dishing and spacers.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    And for the record, I got D5s first, then went and bought D4s the next year as "racing tires" for harder pack races where I wanted a lighter tire and less resistance.

    I tried to run the D4s several times, during a few races and just during some rides.

    The tires left me completely underwhelmed and I guess it's better than nothing, but IMO there's a world of difference between. When conditions are hard and there is little snow the D5s are so much better due to more air volume. When it's softer they are better due to more traction, like pedaling through turns vs. having to coast and concentrate on not slipping. When it's DH they are funner. IME, I never found a redeeming quality with the D4. I chock it up to "it's all we had". I had the choice to use the D4 all the time and I never did, it just didn't work anywhere near as good. There was more "value" in the $500 D5s than the $400 D4s. Prices have come down a bit though, the local shop is selling D5s for significantly less than the $500 when they first came out.

    For over 3 seasons the D5s have served me well. I'm going to move them to secondary use and try J5s as my primary now. Now that there are some more aggressive tires in this width, I'm not so sure I'd get the D5s again, but hands down one of the best things I've ever purchased.
    Truth. All of it.

    Had D5s, very good. Went WrathChild, even better.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by brentos View Post
    Truth. All of it.

    Had D5s, very good. Went WrathChild, even better.
    What he said ^
    Went from D5's to Wrathchild's last year, they're a great studded tire, good grip on the ice and big lugs for the snow, hard to beat IMO.
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  25. #25
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    D5 front with a Wrathchild on the rear is a good complement.
    -or-
    you can roll your own and save some $$$
    http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/dyi...s-1068342.html

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