Split tube schrader- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Split tube schrader

    I'd like to convert to tubeless using the ghetto split tube method and want to use schrader valves.


    I'm trying to track down suitable tubes and am hoping for some suggestions. Rims are 80mm so I'm not sure what size tube I'll need...


    Also, I'm curious if it's possible to use a tube with standard schrader valve stems (non threaded) or is a fully threaded stem mandatory for this method?


    Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
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    Threaded or non threaded works. Just hit a website like universal cycles and order up the 24" x fat tubes and go to town. 24" will fit snugly on the rim and make life easier in the setup process.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by BansheeRune View Post
    Threaded or non threaded works. Just hit a website like universal cycles and order up the 24" x fat tubes and go to town. 24" will fit snugly on the rim and make life easier in the setup process.
    That's great to hear that I can get away with a regular non-threaded stem - that will make it much easier to find a suitable tube. I'm guessing it will just seal itself either way? I've never done this before...

    As for tube size, I've heard of people using 20" as well.
    Any reason to choose 24" over 20", assuming they're both wide enough to cover the 80mm rims?

    If I can't get the right fat tubes, what is the minimum/lightest size that I can get away with? I'm buying in Canada so searching amazon/etc for parts.

    Cheers

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by BansheeRune View Post
    Threaded or non threaded works. Just hit a website like universal cycles and order up the 24" x fat tubes and go to town. 24" will fit snugly on the rim and make life easier in the setup process.

    How do you keep the stem from pushing into the rim when inflating if it isn't threaded?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee View Post
    How do you keep the stem from pushing into the rim when inflating if it isn't threaded?
    I agree with this. I have had the best split tube luck using fully threaded stems.
    On my junky Turnagain FR80 rims, I ended up using a 20" x 3.5" inner tube for the split tube. It did require more stretching to fit the rim, but was very tight fitting in the end. The 3.5" width was definitely overkill as I trimmed a lot of material off, but I wanted to make sure there was more than enough since it was a sacrificial tube.
    Silly bike things happening.

  6. #6
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    So am I better off just going the gorilla tape way then?
    Scott Big Jon with Syncros rims and 4.8 jumbo jim tires - nothing tubeless ready.
    I've read that people have had difficulty with this combo so I want to keep it as simple as possible.
    Lightweight and reliability obviously needed!
    Thanks again

  7. #7
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    I'm lucky enough to have tubeless ready rims so I've always purchased Schrader Valve sans tubes.

    If I was to guess how to accomplish inflated without a threaded valve I would use tape around the valve, rim and use a mini vice tool needle nose to keep it in place.
    https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-Curv...sparkle_asin_0
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Palomini View Post
    So am I better off just going the gorilla tape way then? ...
    A big NO to Gorilla Tape.
    It's a crap shoot on if Gorilla Tape will work. There are other tapes where they'll actually publish their specs, like strength, elongation and adhering strength. Tests done on Gorilla Tape are all across the map. No way to know if it was a good batch or a bad batch, a shipment that wasn't heat damaged in transit or simply aged out. That they won't publish the usual tape specs is a good warning sign. Every application I've ever tried with Gorilla Tape has failed. Others have experienced it failing, working poorly, working 'normally' or working very well. You will not know if the roll you got will work until you use it and try and rely upon it.

    Go find the threads that have already covered going tubeless. Different methods, different tapes/wraps, etc., including which work consistently well, and with tips on what is required (or not) for obtaining success with a particular product. And if a particular product did/didn't work with _____ sealant.

    Different people have their favourites as to independent stems.
    Mine (schrader valves)

    Split tube schrader-valves-schrader-949-anodized-aluminum-sm.jpg

    http://949racing.com/lugs-valves.aspx
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  9. #9
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    949Racing valve stems are really nice.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee View Post
    How do you keep the stem from pushing into the rim when inflating if it isn't threaded?
    By not being a clumsy freakin oaf. Is common sense ever going to be required, ever again??? Just remember to simulate a bull in a china shop every time you use a freakin tire pump!

    While I am not a fan of threadless stems, they will work however, threaded is good for a supported stem.

    Quote Originally Posted by Redlands R&C View Post
    I agree with this. I have had the best split tube luck using fully threaded stems.
    On my junky Turnagain FR80 rims, I ended up using a 20" x 3.5" inner tube for the split tube. It did require more stretching to fit the rim, but was very tight fitting in the end. The 3.5" width was definitely overkill as I trimmed a lot of material off, but I wanted to make sure there was more than enough since it was a sacrificial tube.
    Turnagain, Weinman and a few others, just never, ever...

    Quote Originally Posted by Palomini View Post
    That's great to hear that I can get away with a regular non-threaded stem - that will make it much easier to find a suitable tube. I'm guessing it will just seal itself either way? I've never done this before...

    As for tube size, I've heard of people using 20" as well.
    Any reason to choose 24" over 20", assuming they're both wide enough to cover the 80mm rims?

    If I can't get the right fat tubes, what is the minimum/lightest size that I can get away with? I'm buying in Canada so searching amazon/etc for parts.

    Cheers
    Come to think of it, a dirt bike tube would give you a split tube schraeder setup without too much drama. Perhaps a couple used tubes at a local motorcycle shop... Fronts will be less effort to stretch over a fat rim.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
    Doctor recommended...

  11. #11
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    Small ziptie at the base of the schrader valve works a treat. Cinch it tight and it bites the rubber. Specialized tubes ime are threaded. 20 inch makes a tight fit on 26 inch wheels. For 27, a 24 tube is better.

    Split tube is superior to tape in most situations. Rubber on rubber makes a better seal than tape on rubber every time. I think it's the best sealing interface out there, regardless of price. Think fatty stripper without the possibility of valve seal issues.

  12. #12
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    Awesome tips! Thank you everyone

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