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  1. #401
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    I have been riding an IBIS Mojo since 2007 as my go to MTB bike. This August I got a Fatboy. I had to replace some parts on the IBIS this fall, so I started to ride the FatBoy. I always thought it was fun, but I really missed the feeling of FS.

    After riddindin the bikes back to back on the same trails, I'm thinking the Fatboy is the much more capable bike in this terrain. I just had to get my self in a hard tail frame of mind.

    BUT
    I find I get FAR more pedal strikes on the Fatboy!!! Even though it's fully sprung, the IBIS BB etc just feels nicely tucked away. Any thoughts? Is it my riding style?

    RIDING CONTEXT
    This winter I have been riding a trail that is very rocky and rooty. It's Canadian Shield type riding with not a lot of "climbs", but tons of large irregular rocks, on top of a rock base that goes to the Earths core. Very technical, very bumpy, 20 feet of "flow" at a time.

  2. #402
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    I want to upgrade my Fatboy to XT brakes. The stock front fork has a 180 mm rotor. Do I need to buy an adapter (spacer) that moves the standard caliper (for 160mm rotor) outboard to accommodate the larger rotor, or are the fork posts longer such that an adapter/spacer is not needed with the standard XT post-mount caliper?

  3. #403
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    Quote Originally Posted by dcubed View Post
    I want to upgrade my Fatboy to XT brakes. The stock front fork has a 180 mm rotor. Do I need to buy an adapter (spacer) that moves the standard caliper (for 160mm rotor) outboard to accommodate the larger rotor, or are the fork posts longer such that an adapter/spacer is not needed with the standard XT post-mount caliper?
    You will need a Shimano 180 front adapter to run a 180 rotor.
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  4. #404
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    Quote Originally Posted by majack View Post
    You will need a Shimano 180 front adapter to run a 180 rotor.
    The FatBoy already comes with a 180mm rotor and an adapter. The stock adapter will work for Shimano too.

  5. #405
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    I put Shimano SLX 180 rotors and SLX brakes on my Fatboy. Used the stock front adapter and it works great!
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  6. #406
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    ^This. The stock adapter and rotor will work with your XT brakes. And they're very worth the upgrade. Any Shimano brakes (Deore, SLX, XT) are a very worthwhile upgrade...
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  7. #407
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    Just did this upgrade myself and used the stock front adaptor.

  8. #408
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    Quote Originally Posted by okcorral0 View Post
    The FatBoy already comes with a 180mm rotor and an adapter. The stock adapter will work for Shimano too.
    You are correct Sir, I just misread it. And I did not have my normal pot of coffee in me when I read this I see. Thanks for the correction.
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  9. #409
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    Quote Originally Posted by okcorral0 View Post
    The FatBoy already comes with a 180mm rotor and an adapter. The stock adapter will work for Shimano too.
    Thanks. Are the stock rotors ok or should I get Shimano XT rotors as well?

  10. #410
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    Most people speak highly of the shimano ice tech rotors. I don't think you'll do any harm just putting the new brakes on with the old rotors for now and seeing how they work. I'd actually be interested in your results, as I am in the same boat with wanting to replace the squealing pigs, I mean Tektro's, that Specialized put on the FatBoy. I'd have been much happier with Avid BB5s. The one upside of them is that I've been intentionally carrying more speed into and out of corners as I do anything I can to avoid using the brakes. I figured if I bedded them in well they'd be OK, but they are pretty terrible.

  11. #411
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    My video of warble:

    Tektro Gemini cold weather warble: http://youtu.be/lFz-DA3AjOY

    I replaced with m785 and icetechs. So much nicer...

  12. #412
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    The stock rotors stop good, but squeal bad when wet. If you are putting on ice tech brakes, then you should use ice tech rotors. The system works properly when everything is matched. If not, then you can put on regular SLX rotors like I did. They have much less squeal.
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  13. #413
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    If you want new brakes and don't want to spend the coin on the XT's, then the Shimano Deores are very good. I'd have a hard time telling the difference between them and the higher spec SLX and XT brakes.
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  14. #414
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    Quote Originally Posted by cycloxer13 View Post
    The stock rotors stop good, but squeal bad when wet. If you are putting on ice tech brakes, then you should use ice tech rotors. The system works properly when everything is matched. If not, then you can put on regular SLX rotors like I did. They have much less squeal.
    Mine squeeled when dry as can be seen in the video I posted above. It was cold-ish out. Somewhere around 38 F.

  15. #415
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    Get the xt's.. 205mm f and 180mm r

    Specialized Fatboy-image.jpg
    Specialized Fatboy-image.jpg
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  16. #416
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    Sorry, I did not realize you have Tektro's. Just take them off and throw on some Shimano brakes & rotors. The Deore or SLX are plenty good, reliable, consistent, and easy to setup. If you want more bling, you can go for XT's, but you probably don't need them.

    If I had to choose, I'd opt for a complete SLX system as it is your best bang for the buck.
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  17. #417
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    Quote Originally Posted by av8or View Post
    Get the xt's.. 205mm f and 180mm r

    Click image for larger version. 

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    You can reach those short little stubby levers from your natural hand position on the grips?

    I have SLX brakes sitting in my closet but they never made it onto my Fatboy because of the silly short levers.

    Does the base Deore (non SLX/XT) have longer levers? Or does the Fatboy Expert have this reach issue as well?

  18. #418
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    Not sure if it is the same, but here is the Deore's reach. Works about perfect for 1 or two finger braking...

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  19. #419
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    I have the same except no ends.

  20. #420
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    I had to switch to Trigger shifters with my SLX brakes. I like to hold on to the ends of the bars and I couldnt reach the lever real well without accidentally shifting the bike.
    Shimano does have a long lever model that has levers shaped more like the old Elixir brakes.
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  21. #421
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    I recently installed some XT brakes using the rotors that came on the bike and haven't had any issues at all (although I did have to have the hoses cut down)

    I did, however, have to cut down the grips in order to reach the brake lever, as they're so much shorter than the Tektro's that came on it.

  22. #422
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Hannoonen View Post
    I recently installed some XT brakes using the rotors that came on the bike and haven't had any issues at all (although I did have to have the hoses cut down)

    I did, however, have to cut down the grips in order to reach the brake lever, as they're so much shorter than the Tektro's that came on it.
    The stock Expert comes with Deore brakes. How did Spesh deal with those levers, which I assume are the same length as SLX/XT.

  23. #423
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    FB Pro

    Can't wait to take this thing out. Saturday is it's maiden voyage! Recent changes include going tubeless (ghetto), blue Surly rim strips and a few other odds and ends...

    Specialized Fatboy-img_1742.jpg

    Specialized Fatboy-img_1739.jpg

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  24. #424
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    That's a damn fine lookin steed you got there.

  25. #425
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    Looks killer!

  26. #426
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    I was noticing the front derailleur mount on the fatboys last night. It looks like of ugly, and would be a permanent left over if you ever wanted to convert to a 1x system.

    Any other thoughts on it?

  27. #427
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chad_M View Post
    I was noticing the front derailleur mount on the fatboys last night. It looks like of ugly, and would be a permanent left over if you ever wanted to convert to a 1x system.

    Any other thoughts on it?
    Yeah, cut it off.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Specialized Fatboy-img_20141220_124748434.jpg  

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  28. #428
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  29. #429
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    I went 1x on day one with my fatboy and to be honest I've never even really noticed it. I've considered adding a top chain guide and using the mount though.
    20 SJ Evo 29, 17 Whyte T130, 18 Giant Glory Advanced

  30. #430
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    You don't need a chain guide on this bike. I have had absolutely zero problems with the 1X setup and I thrash my bike pretty hard. I was a little hesitant to cut off my guide, but one day I had a few beers and said, what the heck. I used a dremel cutting wheel, smoothed it out, and touched it up with black nail polish. I'll tell you, it is a lot cleaner, especially on the snowy days. Also, the Fatboy SL does not have a guide.
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  31. #431
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    I dont have the a Clutch RD on mine and i'm running a 30t wide narrow front ring and I've never dropped a chain, even on rough descent trails.

    I have the green fatboy and it would be tough to color match the paint if I cut off the mount.
    20 SJ Evo 29, 17 Whyte T130, 18 Giant Glory Advanced

  32. #432
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    I can't say for sure, but I would assume you voided your lifetime frame warranty by taking a hacksaw to it.

    Hope you don't have any issues down the road...

  33. #433
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    Don't assume, and fwiw I used to be a frame design engineer. It'll be ok. As I pointed out, the SL has no bracket. The sole purpose of that bracket is to hold a derailleur. It is not adding any significant structure to the bike. I was also very careful to leave a little extra material, just to be safe.

    Let me clarify. If the frame were to break in that specific area, yeah, I would probably have a tough time with the warranty. If the frame were to fail anywhere else, I would still have a valid claim. (I don't want to get into a debate about this, but there is actually legal precedent in this regard.) I weigh 140# and unless I crash onto a rock, I am not gonna break this frame - it is quite stout.
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  34. #434
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    Just got the news that my SL shipped today and will be here late next week.

  35. #435
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    Quote Originally Posted by cycloxer13 View Post
    Don't assume, and fwiw I used to be a frame design engineer. It'll be ok. As I pointed out, the SL has no bracket. The sole purpose of that bracket is to hold a derailleur. It is not adding any significant structure to the bike. I was also very careful to leave a little extra material, just to be safe.

    Let me clarify. If the frame were to break in that specific area, yeah, I would probably have a tough time with the warranty. If the frame were to fail anywhere else, I would still have a valid claim. (I don't want to get into a debate about this, but there is actually legal precedent in this regard.) I weigh 140# and unless I crash onto a rock, I am not gonna break this frame - it is quite stout.
    Guess I just got served.

  36. #436
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    Haha, no no, I can understand why not everyone would want to do this 'mod'. You gotta be a little nuts and fortunately, I am. In my professional opinion it'll be okay. That being said, I didn't design this frame and I have no idea if the tube thicknesses are different on this model vs. the SL (it would be unlikely). If I was really crazy I could model the whoel thing up and run an FEA...or...I could just cut it off and ride the bike and see what happens. (I won't tell you how a lot of real engineering goes...)

    There aren't a ton of stresses between the BB shell and the seat tube in the zone where that mount was welded. It's a pretty low risk mod if you are careful with the dremel. When in doubt, you can just leave a little extra material. That's what I did. I just didn't want the mount sticking out there ad having snow build up.
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  37. #437
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    So many pages in this thread... So like between the Fatboy and Fatboy Expert- main differences are the brakes and crankset, right?

    Worth the $700 difference?

  38. #438
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    Yes, I mean you get minor bump ups in wheel spokes, bars, & saddle, but if you are going to change all of that anyway and/or you don't care, you get the same great frame, fork, & tires - the core of the bike.
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  39. #439
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    Expert also has better pedals. The Expert's spec will buy you more time before upgrades, but if you are going to swap them out anyway, you might be better off going with the base or maybe even the SE. I've been satisfied with my experts brakes and drivetrain and don't see the need to upgrade. Buy the one that speaks to you and get out and ride 😃

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  40. #440
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    OK, thanks. I usually am loathe to upgrade cranks and brakes but I do mess with the other stuff. Hmm

  41. #441
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    Sorry, yes the Expert has really nice alloy flat pedals. Even if you don't like them, they are easily sold for $$$
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  42. #442
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    I usually try to put the best and lightest on my bikes, but I bought the standard (not SE) model. I didn't care much about the spokes (Butted vs straight on Expert), but I did hesitate on the brakes and cranks. After buying my bike I immediately replaced the brakes with Shimano XT (<$200) and will make it a 1X10 ($35). I will ride the drivetrain until it breaks or wears out, then upgrade. No-brainer for me - buy the quality core (Frame, fork, wheels) and upgrade the other stuff as necessary.

  43. #443
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    The wheels on all are fine. The weak link is the rear hub which has proven to be problematic for some.
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  44. #444
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    Quote Originally Posted by dcubed View Post
    I usually try to put the best and lightest on my bikes, but I bought the standard (not SE) model. I didn't care much about the spokes (Butted vs straight on Expert), but I did hesitate on the brakes and cranks. After buying my bike I immediately replaced the brakes with Shimano XT (<$200) and will make it a 1X10 ($35). I will ride the drivetrain until it breaks or wears out, then upgrade. No-brainer for me - buy the quality core (Frame, fork, wheels) and upgrade the other stuff as necessary.
    +1 I just sold my Gemini on ebay. I fully disclosed the problems I had. Warble etc...

    Other than the warble, they were a decent entry level brake.

  45. #445
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    I got rid of the fd mount also. Looks very clean with e13 28t direct mount guidering:

    Specialized Fatboy-fatboy_fd_mount.jpg

    Studded Bud tires and Reverb borrowed from my fs bike:

    Specialized Fatboy-fatboy_reverb.jpg

  46. #446
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    In case I was not clear, the Gemini hydro brakes worked fine. I just wanted better stopping power and the proven reliability that a more expensive brake offers.

  47. #447
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    This is a fine mod if you're going to keep it for life or pass it on to someone who will only want a 1X. I am going to 1X and leaving the 'ugly protuberance' for flexibility. I can't predict the future, so I am keeping options open.

    Not a critique of your decision, just sharing my perspective before someone gets out their Dremel. Nice job, BTW - it looks really clean.

  48. #448
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    It came out okay. I could make it perfect if I wanted to do more paint work. My perspective, and I am very serious, is that the 1X drivetrain is so superior, I will never ride anything else off-road ever again. Years ago I was a big proponent of the 2x9 drivetrain development. This is as revolutionary and a perfect match for fat bikes. It is just so simple and effective.

    btw, I tried that same e*thirteen direct mount ring. While it does work, it does not give you the ideal chainline for a 190 rear hub. It would be better on a 170 hub. Of course if you want a 28, it's your only option unless you swap the whole crank.
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  49. #449
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    Quote Originally Posted by cycloxer13 View Post
    My perspective, and I am very serious, is that the 1X drivetrain is so superior
    agreed.

    This is as revolutionary
    no it isn't. neither is the bluto. sussy forks and 1x setups have been used for decades.

    and a perfect match for ANY bike.
    ^^^^^^^^^^^^^FIFY.

    rog

  50. #450
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    Years ago plenty of cyclocross riders rode 1X setups, but they also ran chain guides, chainring guards, and had to make do with standard cassettes.

    Production wide gear range 1X setups with NW chainrings have not been around for decades. The SRAM 10-42 cassette is relatively new (<3 years?) and that wide range is what makes it so useful. SRAM really nailed it with their 1X groups. I forgot to mention clutch derailleurs. The whole system is so much more than just a single ring.

    I know 1X is not for every single bike. I get it. Some people like more gear range. However, just like when I raced with a 2x8 and proto 2x9 setup in '98, I have yet to find a need for more than 1x11 gears on my fat bike. So that's why I busted out the dremel.
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  51. #451
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    I usually try to put the best and lightest on my bikes, but I bought the standard (not SE) model. I didn't care much about the spokes (Butted vs straight on Expert), but I did hesitate on the brakes and cranks. After buying my bike I immediately replaced the brakes with Shimano XT (<$200) and will make it a 1X10 ($35). I will ride the drivetrain until it breaks or wears out, then upgrade. No-brainer for me - buy the quality core (Frame, fork, wheels) and upgrade the other stuff as necessary.

    The wheels on all are fine. The weak link is the rear hub which has proven to be problematic for some.
    Ah! See I am going to get the front wheel relaxed for a Bluto anyhow. And if the back hub sucks it'll get replaced too. So that negates the need to pony up for nicer wheels. Seems like the standard Fatboy is for me.

  52. #452
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    they made due with standard cassettes cuz they weren't pu$$ies.

    rog

  53. #453
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    I just tried to put a RaceFace Narrow-Wide 30T chainring on my Samox crank to convert it to a 1X10. I can't get the crank bolt off. Based on the posts I've seen about these cranks, I am guessing that it may be seized. The bike is two weeks old with about 30 miles on it. Should I really reef on it (breaker bar) or just bring it to the shop so, that if it breaks/strips, they will 'own' the warranty coverage?

  54. #454
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    Quote Originally Posted by dcubed View Post
    I just tried to put a RaceFace Narrow-Wide 30T chainring on my Samox crank to convert it to a 1X10. I can't get the crank bolt off. Based on the posts I've seen about these cranks, I am guessing that it may be seized. The bike is two weeks old with about 30 miles on it. Should I really reef on it (breaker bar) or just bring it to the shop so, that if it breaks/strips, they will 'own' the warranty coverage?
    I had to stand on my big boy wrench. It screeched quite a bit but came out. If it won't budge without a cheater I would take it in, otherwise might strip.

  55. #455
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    Quote Originally Posted by cycloxer13 View Post

    I know 1X is not for every single bike. I get it. Some people like more gear range. However, just like when I raced with a 2x8 and proto 2x9 setup in '98, I have yet to find a need for more than 1x11 gears on my fat bike. So that's why I busted out the dremel.
    Agreed, I could see the allure of 1x if all I rode was single track or trails, but riding my Fatboy as my only bike for 5+ months out of the year I need more gears.

    Yesterday I rode my Fatboy 10 mi to a Fatbike race, raced 15 mi, and then rode home. During the race I needed all of my gears from 22-36 for the hills in technical section to 36-11 on the flat out section on the lake with a 20 mph wind at my back. I probably could have done it on 1x11, but why pay a bunch more $$$ to limit my top and low end.

    Speaking of $$$, one nice thing I've found is with everyone wanting 1x11, 2x parts are dirt cheap. I was able to swap out the 3x on my MTB with XT (crank, cassette, derailuer) for less than a 11 speed cassette would cost.
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  56. #456
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    Quote Originally Posted by cycloxer13 View Post
    btw, I tried that same e*thirteen direct mount ring. While it does work, it does not give you the ideal chainline for a 190 rear hub. It would be better on a 170 hub. Of course if you want a 28, it's your only option unless you swap the whole crank.
    I agree 66mm chainline is not ideal for taller gears and it almost touches the rear tire, but I don't think the previous setup with Raceface 30t was ideal either. Something in between those would be optimal. Here's a pic of the chain line on 5th gear with 28t. Looks OK doesn't it?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Specialized Fatboy-fatboy_bud_guidering_chainline_2.jpg  


  57. #457
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    Yeah 66 mm is usable. It favors the lower gears by about 1 cog change - not horrible. Optimal spacing for a 190 hub is 70-72 mm. I did almost leave it on, but with the big tires it is getting tight with the rear tire. So I through on a Blackspire 30T and with the 2 mm offset you get a 72.5 mm (though it doesn't look nearly as nice).

    Wolf Tooth wrote an excellent white paper for anyone who cares:

    https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/02...ization_v2.pdf
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  58. #458
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    Quick fatboy question: Does anyone know the correct wheel size to enter into a cyclometer? I measured my GC with a tape and converted to 2311 mm but I don't think I was very accurate. I'm traveling roughly an extra mile every hour twenty as compared to a friends GPS. Any info is appreciated thanks!

  59. #459
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatboy43 View Post
    Quick fatboy question: Does anyone know the correct wheel size to enter into a cyclometer? I measured my GC with a tape and converted to 2311 mm but I don't think I was very accurate. I'm traveling roughly an extra mile every hour twenty as compared to a friends GPS. Any info is appreciated thanks!
    2300 would be closer

  60. #460
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    Thanks Michael. I'll try that out. To bad I'm going to lose that extra mile....

  61. #461
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatboy43 View Post
    Thanks Michael. I'll try that out. To bad I'm going to lose that extra mile....
    I'd take your friends GPS with a grain of salt, my Garmin spits out funky lap distances all the time.

  62. #462
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    Mine measure 2362 mm in circumference or 752 mm O.D. or 29.6" O.D., but they are setup tubeless.

    GPS-only tracking can be over 10% inaccurate in the woods. I have seen 15%+ inaccurate in some locations due to twists and turns in the trail and poor satellite reception due to mountains, ravines, and dense tree cover.
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  63. #463
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    Specialized Fatboy

    I am picking a Fatboy up on Wednesday. I ordered a Wolftooth 104bcd 30t front ring. Is this the correct one for 1x10? From my research and the shops it looked right. Thanks.

  64. #464
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    Quote Originally Posted by twentyniner29 View Post
    I ordered a Wolftooth 104bcd 30t front ring. Is this the correct one for 1x10?
    Yes. Perfect. You also need the 10mm long chainring bolts.
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  65. #465
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    U
    Quote Originally Posted by cycloxer13 View Post
    Mine measure 2362 mm in circumference or 752 mm O.D. or 29.6" O.D., but they are setup tubeless.

    GPS-only tracking can be over 10% inaccurate in the woods. I have seen 15%+ inaccurate in some locations due to twists and turns in the trail and poor satellite reception due to mountains, ravines, and dense tree cover.
    Interesting info on the GPS. I was wondering about that myself. I wonder if my 2311 was more accurate than I though.

  66. #466
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatboy43 View Post
    U

    Interesting info on the GPS. I was wondering about that myself. I wonder if my 2311 was more accurate than I though.
    It is probably pretty close as the tires expand a bit when run tubeless. There is only a 2% difference between 2311 and 2362. The most accurate way to measure is to roll out the bike on your intended riding surface and measure the distance traveled for one exact revolution. This helps account for the knobs digging into the ground. It'll make the effective circumference a little smaller on softer terrain, but you are talking 1-2% max.
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  67. #467
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    Specialized Fatboy

    Quote Originally Posted by cycloxer13 View Post
    Yes. Perfect. You also need the 10mm long chainring bolts.
    Do I have to get the ones from Wolftooth?

  68. #468
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    Quote Originally Posted by twentyniner29 View Post
    Do I have to get the ones from Wolftooth?
    You can use any longer chainring bolt, I think 10 mm in length. The stock 6 mm ones are too short to be use with the threaded 30T ring. They won't give you enough thread engagement and will not properly support the ring.
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  69. #469
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    Quote Originally Posted by cycloxer13 View Post
    You can use any longer chainring bolt, I think 10 mm in length. The stock 6 mm ones are too short to be use with the threaded 30T ring. They won't give you enough thread engagement and will not properly support the ring.
    Thanks a lot! Glad I asked!

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    Fatboy SL just showed up today


  71. #471
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    Quote Originally Posted by cycloxer13 View Post
    Yeah 66 mm is usable. It favors the lower gears by about 1 cog change - not horrible. Optimal spacing for a 190 hub is 70-72 mm. I did almost leave it on, but with the big tires it is getting tight with the rear tire. So I through on a Blackspire 30T and with the 2 mm offset you get a 72.5 mm (though it doesn't look nearly as nice).

    Wolf Tooth wrote an excellent white paper for anyone who cares:

    https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/02...ization_v2.pdf
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    https://img98.rajce.idnes.cz/d9802/1...s/IMGP1673.jpg
    https://img98.rajce.idnes.cz/d9802/1...s/IMGP1690.jpg
    https://img98.rajce.idnes.cz/d9802/1...s/IMGP1693.jpg
    https://img98.rajce.idnes.cz/d9802/1...s/IMGP1683.jpg
    https://img98.rajce.idnes.cz/d9802/1...s/IMGP1680.jpg

    Looks this is the only manufacturer, who is able to produce different sizes for cranks for tandem (e.g. 190 mm front x 165 mm rear) and also different left & right, if anybody needs.

  72. #472
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    Quote Originally Posted by fatboy43 View Post
    U

    Interesting info on the GPS. I was wondering about that myself. I wonder if my 2311 was more accurate than I though.
    What I know from Garmin Oregon 450 - most accurate is what is on GPS. (Yes, if you go trails with many curves, then you will lose them in tracklog - try it.) Other thing is, how to interpret these data on the computer. It usually means few meters on km lost, but especially vertical meters are lowered. Base Camp .... - 10 %, Bikemap.net .... - 20 % (in special examples even - 50 %).

    Best is Edge - it can combine info from satellite with wheel sensor. But it has only li-ion block, not replaceable AA batteries.

  73. #473
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    Picking my (standard model) Fatboy up on Saturday. My LBS is swapping out the brakes for XT and I'm paying a tad more for X9 trigger shifters.

    I have to say, the value on this is stunning. I've had two Pugsleys before this, just sold the second one to fund the Fatboy. I definitely see where the cost savings went though, but that stuff is inoffensive enough until I upgrade it. The fact that I'm starting in the low 30's instead of 36 lbs is great.

    I saw someone put Specialized 2.4-3.0" tubes in- has anyone done that they weighs close to 200 lbs?

  74. #474
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    Quote Originally Posted by XJaredX View Post

    I saw someone put Specialized 2.4-3.0" tubes in- has anyone done that they weighs close to 200 lbs?
    I'm 175# and have had not issues with the specialized 2.4-3.0" tubes. I wouldn't think you would have an issue
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  75. #475
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    I saw someone put Specialized 2.4-3.0" tubes in- has anyone done that they weighs close to 200 lbs?[/QUOTE]

    I weigh 240# with winter kit.. no issues in 6 months with the tubes.. I also have Q-Tube Superlights in another Fatbike with no issues after 3 months..

  76. #476
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    Cool thanks. I've always used the Q-Tube SL's with no issues but never anything smaller.

  77. #477
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    Just found out my BB bearings on my 2014 Expert are shot already. LBS said there is a no questions asked 1 year warranty. Of course they are not available at this moment from E-thirteen.

  78. #478
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    Quote Originally Posted by edgeworker View Post
    Just found out my BB bearings on my 2014 Expert are shot already. LBS said there is a no questions asked 1 year warranty. Of course they are not available at this moment from E-thirteen.
    Weird- they don't show out of stock at their store- assuming these are the right ones....Pressfit 30 fatbike BB
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  79. #479
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    beats me, maybe they have to come thru Specialized. I'm in no rush
    Last edited by edgeworker; 01-24-2015 at 05:01 AM.

  80. #480
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    Specialized Fatboy

    So the tubeless thing isn't working out awesome for me. What size and brand light tube should I go with?

  81. #481
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    Quote Originally Posted by twentyniner29 View Post
    So the tubeless thing isn't working out awesome for me. What size and brand light tube should I go with?
    I'm running a Q-tubes super light 2.4-2.7" on my Fatboy and it seems to be fine so far. These are only 250 g each, so even carrying a spare is not much of a penalty. I got em from Jenson USA.

  82. #482
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    Specialized Fatboy

    Quote Originally Posted by Chinman View Post
    I'm running a Q-tubes super light 2.4-2.7" on my Fatboy and it seems to be fine so far. These are only 250 g each, so even carrying a spare is not much of a penalty. I got em from Jenson USA.
    Thanks. Grabbing some today.

  83. #483
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    Quote Originally Posted by twentyniner29 View Post
    So the tubeless thing isn't working out awesome for me. What size and brand light tube should I go with?
    Mind if I ask which method? I've been using Tyvek Tape, wrapped rim to rim, and it's been rock solid.

  84. #484
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    Specialized Fatboy

    Quote Originally Posted by jester6578 View Post
    Mind if I ask which method? I've been using Tyvek Tape, wrapped rim to rim, and it's been rock solid.
    I used the gorilla tape method with orange subzero. It seems like the tape doesn't hold. Done it 3 times now. Haven't heard of the Tyvek method, please enighten me.

  85. #485
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    I've had great luck with this, it's 4" wide so it spans edge to edge of rim. It also leaves no residue when removed and is somewhat stretchy.
    Trim Protection - Protective Products Int'l, Inc.

  86. #486
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    Specialized Fatboy

    I've used the taping method detailed in the following link, but use Tyvek tape instead (purchased rolls at Home Depot). The Tyvek is lighter and conforms better than the transparent tough tape mentioned.

    Link: http://cyclesinlife.com/tubeless-fat...ersion-update/
    Quote Originally Posted by mp1022 View Post
    I've had great luck with this, it's 4" wide so it spans edge to edge of rim. It also leaves no residue when removed and is somewhat stretchy.
    Trim Protection - Protective Products Int'l, Inc.
    I've been thinking of trying 4" tape, but haven't seen many good options. How thick is it compared to duct tape (or other common tape)? And how many wraps do you do?

  87. #487
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    I would say the thickness of the tape is similar to electrical tape. On my first wheel I did one wrap, on the second I did two. That was almost 2 months ago and I haven't lost any air pressure. Putting on the tape takes two people, one to hold the wheel and guide the tape, the other to pull the tape off the roll.

  88. #488
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    Specialized Fatboy

    You guys have talked me into trying this 1 more time. Just picked up some Tyvek tape, going to grab some surly rim strips today. Here is my plan:
    Remove Fatboy rim strip
    Clean rim and tire bead
    Install surly strip
    Clean rim and wipe down rim strip
    Install tape to the edge on each side
    Install a center piece of tape
    Use light heat from heat gun
    Install tube and tire
    Inflate to 20psi overnight
    Remove tube and add 6oz of Orange subzero.

    I'll let you know the outcome.

  89. #489
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    I used Specialized 24" 2.4 -3.0" tubes and went split tube. It was simple, aired up first try and neve lost a pound of air. I trimmed back to the sidewalls for clean look (can't even tell) and at $5.50 each shipped free from Amazon I'll just replace them when the tires are worn out in two years.
    And I really notice the bike seems to roll easier, not sure if it's the 700grams I lost btween frnt/back or the whole not compressing the tube thing. Or, perhaps it's in my head but the ride and traction is improved, I don't worry about flats and it was cheap, simple and effective. Can't beat that!

  90. #490
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    Quote Originally Posted by celdred1 View Post
    I used Specialized 24" 2.4 -3.0" tubes and went split tube. It was simple, aired up first try and neve lost a pound of air. I trimmed back to the sidewalls for clean look (can't even tell) and at $5.50 each shipped free from Amazon I'll just replace them when the tires are worn out in two years.
    And I really notice the bike seems to roll easier, not sure if it's the 700grams I lost btween frnt/back or the whole not compressing the tube thing. Or, perhaps it's in my head but the ride and traction is improved, I don't worry about flats and it was cheap, simple and effective. Can't beat that!
    I did a similar thing. I got the 24" tubes with removable cores. Inflated and held air without even using any goop. I still added 4 oz. of Stans via the removable core to each tire anyway.

  91. #491
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    Re: Specialized Fatboy

    Stem suggestions for my Fatboy?

    Looking for a 30-40 degree 60-75mm stem.

    Initially looking at this one...

    http://www.bontrager.com/model/11233

  92. #492
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    I would try flipping the stock stem over and using a riser bar first. Remember anytime you use a stem with that much rise it also shortens up the overall length. This is a nice calculator I use to help figure things out.
    <:: Welcome to Slowtwitch.com ::>: Stem Rise & Stretch Calculator

  93. #493
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    Edit: beat me to it

    Make sure you check what position your bars will be in with a stem calculator...

    I went for an On-One

    On-One 3D Forged Stem | Planet X

  94. #494
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    Re: Specialized Fatboy

    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    I would try flipping the stock stem over and using a riser bar first. Remember anytime you use a stem with that much rise it also shortens up the overall length. This is a nice calculator I use to help figure things out.
    : Stem Rise & Stretch Calculator
    Understand that. I believe my stock stem is 60 mm and 6 degree angle. I was thinking I could keep about the same reach by just using a longer stem with a 30-40 degree angle.

    That on one stem looks nice.

  95. #495
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    I went with an adjustable Specialized 90mm Multi stem Specialized Bicycle Components and also swapped in a 40mm riser Easton EC70 carbon handlebar. The bar is also about 1.5" shorter in overall length and a nice upgrade.
    2015 Specialized FATBOY EC70 Seatpost & Bars SRAM X7/Wolf 42T 1x10
    2016 Specialized DIVERGE Expert X1 SRAM 1x11 Force

  96. #496
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    From my rough calculations you would have to go with about a 90mm stem with a 35mm rise to have about the same reach as the stock 60mm.

  97. #497
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    I just bought a Fatboy last week and have about 20 miles of snow riding on it so far. Besides the Tektro brakes not having much power the SQUEAL and HOWL is unacceptable. Has anyone had success with a different brake pad that eliminated the noise and or improved the stopping power? I'm trying to determine if I can swap to a different pad that will improve the noise and performance or just scrap these brakes and put on a better set.

  98. #498
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    I have no experience with the Tektro brakes, but I was on a ride last weekend - there were three different types of brakes on the ride and all three were howling like mad. There's a thread here somewhere talking about brake howl on snow rides. I don't think those Tektro brakes are very good, but don't expect any brake to be squeal free in the winter, unfortunately.

  99. #499
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    Re: Specialized Fatboy

    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    From my rough calculations you would have to go with about a 90mm stem with a 35mm rise to have about the same reach as the stock 60mm.
    I just cheated. I did some layouts in CAD.

    A 60mm stem at a 30 degree angle would shorten my reach ~5/16" and raise my bars about an 1"

    A 70 mm stem at a 30 degree angle would have the same reach as my stock stem and raise the bars ~1-1/8"

    I wouldn't mine shortening my reach just a hair. Now which stem to purchase is the question.

  100. #500
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    Re: Specialized Fatboy

    Quote Originally Posted by 03'Darin View Post
    I just bought a Fatboy last week and have about 20 miles of snow riding on it so far. Besides the Tektro brakes not having much power the SQUEAL and HOWL is unacceptable. Has anyone had success with a different brake pad that eliminated the noise and or improved the stopping power? I'm trying to determine if I can swap to a different pad that will improve the noise and performance or just scrap these brakes and put on a better set.
    I rented a Fatboy last weekend and rode it for 2 days in the snow. The brakes would squeal like crazy the first couple times I used them then it went away the rest of the day. I just assume some snow or other grit was in there and a couple of uses cleaned 'em out.

    It really didn't bother me though.

  101. #501
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    Quote Originally Posted by 03'Darin View Post
    I just bought a Fatboy last week and have about 20 miles of snow riding on it so far. Besides the Tektro brakes not having much power the SQUEAL and HOWL is unacceptable. Has anyone had success with a different brake pad that eliminated the noise and or improved the stopping power? I'm trying to determine if I can swap to a different pad that will improve the noise and performance or just scrap these brakes and put on a better set.
    The noise will be worse if your bike is on the outside on the way to the trailhead as it gets blasted with moisture, salt, etc...I find it takes a lot longer to burn that off v.s when the bike rides in the car.
    Oh noes. I'm going to drink the Kool-Aid.

  102. #502
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jisch View Post
    I have no experience with the Tektro brakes, but I was on a ride last weekend - there were three different types of brakes on the ride and all three were howling like mad. There's a thread here somewhere talking about brake howl on snow rides. I don't think those Tektro brakes are very good, but don't expect any brake to be squeal free in the winter, unfortunately.
    I didn't mention in my post that I am new to Fat bikes but I've been year round riding for about 10 years. Over that time I've had a few different brands of disc brakes I've ridden. As you mentioned they do all squeal at some times under certain condition but nothing even close to the amount of squeal these produce or near the volume. We have about 7 of our guys that have all bought fat bikes over the last month. 3 of us have Fatboys with these brakes on. All 3 bikes produce the same noise and most of the times are the only bikes with noisy brakes during the ride.

  103. #503
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    Quote Originally Posted by 03'Darin View Post
    I didn't mention in my post that I am new to Fat bikes but I've been year round riding for about 10 years. Over that time I've had a few different brands of disc brakes I've ridden. As you mentioned they do all squeal at some times under certain condition but nothing even close to the amount of squeal these produce or near the volume. We have about 7 of our guys that have all bought fat bikes over the last month. 3 of us have Fatboys with these brakes on. All 3 bikes produce the same noise and most of the times are the only bikes with noisy brakes during the ride.
    Not sure what pad size your Tektro brakes use, but I switched to TruckerCo Organic semi metallic pads on my Shimano Deores (Fatboy Expert) and they significantly quieted my brake squeal in the snow. 2pr TruckerCo s Disc Brake Pads Shimano Nexave BR C601M515 M515LA M415 M416 M08 | eBay
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  104. #504
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    Somewhat OT, but figure it was fitting for this thread. I got my Bluto and am just waiting on the hub to show up. What's the going rate for the stock carbon fork? I have no use for it, just not sure what to toss it on the 'bay for. Can other bikes even use it?
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  105. #505
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    Any bike with a tapered or oversized head tube can use that fork. I'm curious as well - I have a wheel and fork to get rid of (I guess). I had planned on putting it back on for winter, but at this point I just don't see that happening. I would think you could get $150 easily for that fork. The On One carbon fatty fork is $205 for reference.

  106. #506
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    Re: Specialized Fatboy

    I believe there was a guy over in the Fatboy SE thread that said he was looking for a carbon fork since the SE is alloy.

    http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/spe...-941647-3.html

  107. #507
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paochow View Post
    Not sure what pad size your Tektro brakes use, but I switched to TruckerCo Organic semi metallic pads on my Shimano Deores (Fatboy Expert) and they significantly quieted my brake squeal in the snow. 2pr TruckerCo s Disc Brake Pads Shimano Nexave BR C601M515 M515LA M415 M416 M08 | eBay
    In the application list it says they fit my bike. $16 shipped is worth a try. I can probably deal with the poor stopping power but the squeal is overpowering.

    Anyone else change pads on their Tektro Brakes that can give me input?

  108. #508
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    +another on the ridiculously loud brake squeal

    It starts as soon as any water/grit gets on them and doesn't go away until you get a decent long braking done on them

    I was thinking of just swapping the front brake for something like an XT or SLX

  109. #509
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    Even after a proper break in, I could never get the Tektro to perform very good or not make noise. I swapped over to SLX brakes/rotors pretty quickly.
    20 SJ Evo 29, 17 Whyte T130, 18 Giant Glory Advanced

  110. #510
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    Quote Originally Posted by prj71 View Post
    I just cheated. I did some layouts in CAD.

    A 60mm stem at a 30 degree angle would shorten my reach ~5/16" and raise my bars about an 1"

    A 70 mm stem at a 30 degree angle would have the same reach as my stock stem and raise the bars ~1-1/8"

    I wouldn't mine shortening my reach just a hair. Now which stem to purchase is the question.
    I ended up with a Thompson 90 x 10° and a pair of One-One Fllegle Bars - nice

    Specialized Fatboy-p1050064.jpg

  111. #511
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    Specialized Fatboy

    Does the fatboy comp have 197 rear? Their site won't let me view the comp model

    EDIT: looks like 190. Darn

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  113. #513
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    TruckerCo organic replacement pads

    Quote Originally Posted by 03'Darin View Post
    In the application list it says they fit my bike. $16 shipped is worth a try. I can probably deal with the poor stopping power but the squeal is overpowering.

    Anyone else change pads on their Tektro Brakes that can give me input?
    I also changed the original Tektro pads to the TruckerCo organics. They may not offer as much stopping power, but are significantly quieter. Either way, they work well enough, don't scream or howl like the Tektros, and I don't have any issues locking up the wheels...especially in the snow.

  114. #514
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    Picked up my Fatboy on Saturday. So far only a short ride, but impressed with it.

    I do find that the Ground Controls offer great traction in snow, but not so much on ice.

    I know that the studded Dillingers are great (my wife has a set on her Cooker), but the price is a bit "steep". Any alternates?

  115. #515
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    Re: Specialized Fatboy

    The SRAM grip shift on the Fatboy is listed as S-Series on the Specialized website.

    What model on the SRAM website is the equivalent since they don't even list an S-series?

  116. #516
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    Looks like XO are the lowest level, so the S series must be X9 at best. I had a set of XO I replaced mine with. the XO feel a little lighter in operation.

  117. #517
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    Bonking ... not feelin' well

    Help! Just received used Fatboy and the headset bearings come out by hand. I thought they were supposed to be tighter. Also I saw that someone here used a Cane Creek fork race on the Orbit headset. Are you sure that's OK? I got one too, cuz I like the idea of the seal, and couldn't find the Orbit one, but it doesn't really feel right, and I don't wanna screw up something.

  118. #518
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    Specialized frames have integrated cups, so the bearings just drop right into the cups. Add a little grease when you put them in and your good to go.
    20 SJ Evo 29, 17 Whyte T130, 18 Giant Glory Advanced

  119. #519
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    Specialized Fatboy

    The cups are what are pressed in , not the bearings. The bearings just sit in place
    Disregard


    Pedaling

  120. #520
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Lynch View Post
    Specialized frames have integrated cups, so the bearings just drop right into the cups. Add a little grease when you put them in and your good to go.
    So the frame IS the cup. Got it. Thanks a million. Can't wait to put this baby together.

  121. #521
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    Thought I'd post an update on my brake squeal situation. Now that I have about 50 miles of trail riding on the brakes the majority of the squeal is gone. They only squeal now when I get snow on them. On the down side the stopping power hasn't gotten any better. I prefer braking with one finger but if your running down almost any grade you just can't slow this thing down well with one finger.

    I'm planning on going to trigger shifters as I really don't like grip shift. Any suggestions on a good combo of grip shift and better brakes? I've read that some trigger shifters and brakes have mounting interference issues on the bars?

  122. #522
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    Quote Originally Posted by 03'Darin View Post
    Thought I'd post an update on my brake squeal situation. Now that I have about 50 miles of trail riding on the brakes the majority of the squeal is gone. They only squeal now when I get snow on them. On the down side the stopping power hasn't gotten any better. I prefer braking with one finger but if your running down almost any grade you just can't slow this thing down well with one finger.

    I'm planning on going to trigger shifters as I really don't like grip shift. Any suggestions on a good combo of grip shift and better brakes? I've read that some trigger shifters and brakes have mounting interference issues on the bars?
    I went with X7 Triggers and sold the grip shifts on ebay. Per some above posts, there aren't many options besides SRAM XO for 2x10 grip shifts. I ended up selling my pair for $70 which is retail for X7 triggers as a replacement. I also upgraded to a OneUp Components 42T conversion kit and a RaceFace N/W 30T single ring up front to go 1x10.

    The Tektros will be my next replacement/upgrade. FYI on the squealing. The new brakes do need to "bed in" which will reduce the howling somewhat. Very cold and wet weather will make most disc brakes squeal to some degree. My LBS resurfaced my rotors and pads as they were totally glazed with well less than 500 miles of riding. A procedure where they sanded down the rotors and pads with an emery cloth, rubbed them with isopropyl alcohol, and then gently heated the rotors with a propane torch. This was a HUGE improvement but IMHO shouldn't have to be done just a few months into owning the bike.

    SRAM/Avid brakes have a "Matchmaker" system to reduce handlebar clutter. They are compatible with at least X7 triggers and above.
    2015 Specialized FATBOY EC70 Seatpost & Bars SRAM X7/Wolf 42T 1x10
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  123. #523
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    I asked my LBS to replace the grip shifters on my fatboy with trigger shifters. They put X9's on and they work great. My Tektro brakes squeal a little, but I'm usually not laying into them on the single track I ride. We'll see how they fare in the dirt and mud this summer.

  124. #524
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    Specialized Fatboy

    After 3 failed tubeless attempts I did the split tube. Quick and easy! Totally changed the way the bike rides.

  125. #525
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    I replaced the grip shift with X9 shifters, and went for a Shimano front caliper with a 208mm disc, great brakes, no fade on the long downhills I ride and great modulation. Pretty cheap at the LBS as well. Getting rid of the grip shifters was the best mod I have made to my Fatboy by far

  126. #526
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    Re: Specialized Fatboy

    I initially thought I wouldn't like the grip shifters after so many years of using trigger shifters. After a few rides I like them.

  127. #527
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    Quote Originally Posted by pspycho View Post
    I went with X7 Triggers and sold the grip shifts on ebay. Per some above posts, there aren't many options besides SRAM XO for 2x10 grip shifts. I ended up selling my pair for $70 which is retail for X7 triggers as a replacement. I also upgraded to a OneUp Components 42T conversion kit and a RaceFace N/W 30T single ring up front to go 1x10.

    The Tektros will be my next replacement/upgrade. FYI on the squealing. The new brakes do need to "bed in" which will reduce the howling somewhat. Very cold and wet weather will make most disc brakes squeal to some degree. My LBS resurfaced my rotors and pads as they were totally glazed with well less than 500 miles of riding. A procedure where they sanded down the rotors and pads with an emery cloth, rubbed them with isopropyl alcohol, and then gently heated the rotors with a propane torch. This was a HUGE improvement but IMHO shouldn't have to be done just a few months into owning the bike.

    SRAM/Avid brakes have a "Matchmaker" system to reduce handlebar clutter. They are compatible with at least X7 triggers and above.
    I've been searching my trigger shift and brake options. I'm looking at doing either the X-7 or X-9 triggers and possibly the Avid D B3 brakes. I can only find a few reviews on the brakes but they seem to all say the stopping power is good, which the stock brakes seriously lack. My squeal has all but gone away but the braking power is still terrible for my liking. Anyone have input good or bad on the D B3's?

    While searching brakes and shifters I also stumbled across the Matchmaker option. I've been trying to figure out where my best deal is to buy the shifters, brakes and apparently the matchmaker brakes (which don't seem to come with any of the brakes or shifters). I'm staying with 2X10 sine I want to ride this thing in the summer also and some of the single track we do is somewhat fast. I'm afraid if I go 1 X 10 I won't be able to find the low to high range I'll be looking for.

  128. #528
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    additional info

    Quote Originally Posted by av8or View Post
    you get what you pay for.. they are pos.. i have a base fatboy but have upgraded to bluto, e.thirteen cranks (free upgrade from spesh), xo rear derailleur, xt brakes, icetech rotors (206mm f / 180mm r), reverb dropper..
    I have a great LBS, and have had problems with my base fatboy, how did you get the e.thirteen cranks upgrade for free, I am interested, I have gotten other upgrades when things failed but am interested in the cranks as mine are getting gritty
    thanks

    Edit:
    I eliminated the grip shifters and went with X9, great improvement when climbing as well as other off road activities
    Cheers,
    FGO
    Last edited by Father Guzzi Obrian; 02-11-2015 at 11:50 AM. Reason: update

  129. #529
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    Quote Originally Posted by Father Guzzi Obrian View Post
    I have a great LBS, and have had problems with my base fatboy, how did you get the e.thirteen cranks upgrade for free, I am interested, I have gotten other upgrades when things failed but am interested in the cranks as mine are getting gritty
    thanks,
    lost my puller cap and lbs requested a part number but spesh sent out the entire e-thirteen crank..

  130. #530
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    Quote Originally Posted by 03'Darin View Post
    I've been searching my trigger shift and brake options. I'm looking at doing either the X-7 or X-9 triggers and possibly the Avid D B3 brakes. I can only find a few reviews on the brakes but they seem to all say the stopping power is good, which the stock brakes seriously lack. My squeal has all but gone away but the braking power is still terrible for my liking. Anyone have input good or bad on the D B3's?

    While searching brakes and shifters I also stumbled across the Matchmaker option. I've been trying to figure out where my best deal is to buy the shifters, brakes and apparently the matchmaker brakes (which don't seem to come with any of the brakes or shifters). I'm staying with 2X10 sine I want to ride this thing in the summer also and some of the single track we do is somewhat fast. I'm afraid if I go 1 X 10 I won't be able to find the low to high range I'll be looking for.
    I'd recommend the Shimano series over the Avid's. Deore, SLX, or XT all stop fast and have good feel. I prefer them over even the higher grade Avid's. Difference in shimano models is mostly weight, adjustment ability, and price.
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  131. #531
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    Post Blizzard Ride

    Specialized Fatboy-2015-blizzard-sunset-ride.jpg

  132. #532
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paochow View Post
    I'd recommend the Shimano series over the Avid's. Deore, SLX, or XT all stop fast and have good feel. I prefer them over even the higher grade Avid's. Difference in shimano models is mostly weight, adjustment ability, and price.
    Several of my riding buddies run the XT"S and are very happy with them. My main reason for thinking about the DB3's was because of the matchmaker mounting system setup. I didn't find many reviews on the DB3's but the reviews I did find were good.

    I probably shouldn't be cheap about this and just do the XT brakes. I have a couple questions though.

    - First will the XT brakes work with the stock rotors or do I need to buy XT rotors?

    - Are the XT clamps and levers compatible with Sram trigger shifters?

    - What length brake hoses do I need? If it matters the bike is a large and I'll eventually be adding a suspension fork to it.
    Last edited by 03'Darin; 02-11-2015 at 11:25 AM.

  133. #533
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    Quote Originally Posted by 03'Darin View Post
    - First will the XT brakes work with the stock rotors or do I need to buy XT rotors?

    - Are the XT clamps and levers compatible with Sram trigger shifters?

    - What length brake hoses do I need? If it matters the bike is a large and I'll eventually be adding a suspension fork to it.
    They will work with the stock rotors. I used them until I got the Icetechs.

    You'll need the appropriate Problem Solvers Matchmaker to bolt the shifters to the brake clamp. Without it, both clamps will live together on the bars just fine. I've not even considered getting the matchmaker.

    If you get a pre-bled kit, I think they only come in one size for front and rear each. The front will likely be a little long on the rigid fork, and work just fine on a Bluto. The stock lines are 1000mm front, 1700mm rear.
    Oh noes. I'm going to drink the Kool-Aid.

  134. #534
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    Quote Originally Posted by 03'Darin View Post
    Several of my riding buddies run the XT"S and are very happy with them. My main reason for thinking about the DB3's was because of the matchmaker mounting system setup. I didn't find many reviews on the DB3's but the reviews I did find were good.

    I probably shouldn't be cheap about this and just do the XT brakes. I have a couple questions though.

    - First will the XT brakes work with the stock rotors or do I need to buy XT rotors?

    - Are the XT clamps and levers compatible with Sram trigger shifters?

    - What length brake hoses do I need? If it matters the bike is a large and I'll eventually be adding a suspension fork to it.
    I'd do some serious research on brakes depending on the weather conditions you plan on riding. If this is a full on winter machine my 2cents stay away from mineral oil stuff i.e.. shimano, magura, tektro. DOT is definitely the way to go for 32 or less degrees.

  135. #535
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    ^just to be clear, Mineral Oil is fine down to about -10 degrees (well below 32f). There is an excellent article here: Technical FAQ: More on disc brakes in cold weather - VeloNews.com Essentially, if you're not doing much sub 0 (f) riding, any kind of brakes are going to be fine. Some are better than others. I have been running Shimano Deores on my fatty for the last year and have ridden them down to about +5 without any issues. Below that, frankly, I don't really want to be outside (but I'm spoiled-- I live in Colorado).

    ^Problem solvers makes a kit to "Matchmake" your SRAM triggers to your Shimano brakes, but it's a crappy solution (bulky). SRAM triggers have a lot of adjustability as far as where they're mounted and can often be run either between brake and grip OR on the inside of the brake. I personally find it's much easier to just run them with their separate clamps- with the adjustability, you won't be forced into compromising how far in your reach is on either component.

    ^Shimanos typically come with an extra barb and olive for trimming the hoses. If you have any experience, or watch a few youtube videos, you can often do a trim without having to re-bleed the brakes. All of this is A LOT easier with a barb insertion tool like this one: https://www.biketiresdirect.com/prod...FZeJaQodDDkABw. Unless you have a really big bike, both hoses will likely need to be trimmed, but you can probably live with the front being long if you're on a L or XL. Personal preference. Either way, you can install and ride them with some extra hose out the front and then trim later if so desired.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  136. #536
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    Re: Specialized Fatboy

    Quote Originally Posted by MichaelHumpal View Post
    I'd do some serious research on brakes depending on the weather conditions you plan on riding. If this is a full on winter machine my 2cents stay away from mineral oil stuff i.e.. shimano, magura, tektro. DOT is definitely the way to go for 32 or less degrees.
    ????

    Rode my Fatboy with mineral oil brakes (Tektro) for 2+ hours in 15 degrees a few weeks ago. Brakes worked flawlessly.

    ????

  137. #537
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    Picking up my new Fatboy (1st fatbike) in the next few days!!! Shop is just installing all my parts on it- XT brakes, Raceface turbine cinch cranks, clutch derailleur, slx shifter and Reverb! Bluto & hub will come later. Gave up waiting for my Buscksaw to come in and I save a few dollars for sure. I like riding my Honzo so I am looking forward to the Fatboy for the wet winter riding.

  138. #538
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    Quote Originally Posted by MichaelHumpal View Post
    I'd do some serious research on brakes depending on the weather conditions you plan on riding. If this is a full on winter machine my 2cents stay away from mineral oil stuff i.e.. shimano, magura, tektro. DOT is definitely the way to go for 32 or less degrees.
    I'm in the central Pa area where we seldom see temps around 0. Saying that it's supposed to be -1 here Sunday AM for our weekly group ride. I've been riding in the winter for better than the past 10 years all on hydraulic mineral oil brakes. Temps down as low as -10 with no issues. Our winter temps probably run 15 - 35 degree range. So fluid type isn't really a concern for me.

    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    ^just to be clear, Mineral Oil is fine down to about -10 degrees (well below 32f). There is an excellent article here: Technical FAQ: More on disc brakes in cold weather - VeloNews.com Essentially, if you're not doing much sub 0 (f) riding, any kind of brakes are going to be fine. Some are better than others. I have been running Shimano Deores on my fatty for the last year and have ridden them down to about +5 without any issues. Below that, frankly, I don't really want to be outside (but I'm spoiled-- I live in Colorado).

    ^Problem solvers makes a kit to "Matchmake" your SRAM triggers to your Shimano brakes, but it's a crappy solution (bulky). SRAM triggers have a lot of adjustability as far as where they're mounted and can often be run either between brake and grip OR on the inside of the brake. I personally find it's much easier to just run them with their separate clamps- with the adjustability, you won't be forced into compromising how far in your reach is on either component.

    ^Shimanos typically come with an extra barb and olive for trimming the hoses. If you have any experience, or watch a few youtube videos, you can often do a trim without having to re-bleed the brakes. All of this is A LOT easier with a barb insertion tool like this one: https://www.biketiresdirect.com/prod...FZeJaQodDDkABw. Unless you have a really big bike, both hoses will likely need to be trimmed, but you can probably live with the front being long if you're on a L or XL. Personal preference. Either way, you can install and ride them with some extra hose out the front and then trim later if so desired.
    Yeah you probably have a good point to just mount them separately for more adjustability.

    Now any idea if the XT brakes work with the Tektro rotors?

  139. #539
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    Quote Originally Posted by MichaelHumpal View Post
    I'd do some serious research on brakes depending on the weather conditions you plan on riding. If this is a full on winter machine my 2cents stay away from mineral oil stuff i.e.. shimano, magura, tektro. DOT is definitely the way to go for 32 or less degrees.
    There was an issue with the seals on early shimano brakes that caused deteriorated performance in cold conditions, but that's been remedied for a while now. Tons of people using them in cold conditions without problems, other brands, too.

    That said - be mindful of the seals on the Bluto if you get one and make sure you get the cold seal kit if you're going to be seeing cold temps.
    Oh noes. I'm going to drink the Kool-Aid.

  140. #540
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    Now any idea if the XT brakes work with the Tektro rotors?[/QUOTE]

    I put XT's on mine and worked well, but did finally upgrade to 203mm on the front. Great for long downhills, great feedback

  141. #541
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    Quote Originally Posted by 03'Darin View Post
    INow any idea if the XT brakes work with the Tektro rotors?

    Look up, dude.
    Oh noes. I'm going to drink the Kool-Aid.

  142. #542
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    Quote Originally Posted by MichaelHumpal View Post
    I'd do some serious research on brakes depending on the weather conditions you plan on riding. If this is a full on winter machine my 2cents stay away from mineral oil stuff i.e.. shimano, magura, tektro. DOT is definitely the way to go for 32 or less degrees.
    This is so old news and was a problem with older brakes. With the new brakes we have today, mineral oil is just as good if not better than DOT based brakes. I have Shimano XT's and I ride in Minnesota and we do get cold in the winter and my Shimanos have worked fine down to -10. Yes they firm up a bit, but they still work in the cold. I know many others that are using Shimano's in the cold and they have no problems also.
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  143. #543
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcaino View Post
    Look up, dude.
    I saw your post and thought "am I missing something here"? Then I went back up through the thread and realized I did. Thanks!

  144. #544
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    My Fatboy

    This bike is friggen amazing. I can't believe how much I enjoy riding it,. Weather is not a concern, I can ride any trail on this thing, I simply do not slip, mud, snow, sand gravel, nothing matters, it just climbs, this should be named The Goat.

    The grip shifter are great, lest clutter on the bars, gives it a clean look and when I go down, less to be broken.

    I will probably upgrade to a suspension for, I like the carbon, but I would like a bit more plush on my rides down.

    -RobSpecialized Fatboy-20150206_170913.jpg
    Last edited by ohmoxide; 02-11-2015 at 06:36 PM. Reason: Adding image

  145. #545
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    Specialized Fatboy

    Quote Originally Posted by ohmoxide View Post
    This bike is friggen amazing. I can't believe how much I enjoy riding it,. Weather is not a concern, I can ride any trail on this thing, I simply do not slip, mud, snow, sand gravel, nothing matters, it just climbs, this should be named The Goat.

    The grip shifter are great, lest clutter on the bars, gives it a clean look and when I go down, less to be broken.

    I will probably upgrade to a suspension for, I like the carbon, but I would like a bit more plush on my rides down.

    -RobClick image for larger version. 

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  146. #546
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    Re: Specialized Fatboy

    Where can I buy the Specialized red rim strips? LBS tells me they can't order red rim strips from Specialized. Weird.

  147. #547
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    Quote Originally Posted by prj71 View Post
    Where can I buy the Specialized red rim strips? LBS tells me they can't order red rim strips from Specialized. Weird.
    Surly Rim Strip For Rolling Darryl > Components > Tires and Tubes > Rim Strips | Jenson USA

  148. #548
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    Those are Surly. I specified I wanted the Specialized ones.

    I checked out the Surly ones and they seem weak and cheap, plus the tube color bleeds through them since they are so thin.

    I want the red ones that come on the Fatboy expert

    Specialized Fatboy-870236d1392603784-specialized-fatboy-review-how-i-ended-up-fat-img_3538.jpg

  149. #549
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    As I said before...I cannot leave well enough alone.
    Even though the bike was fine as is/was...today I made a few upgrades to my FatBoy Expert.... Medium
    Surly Light tubes for the obvious reason, Easton carbon riser bar to help dampen the vibes and help keep the fingers a little warmer, Sella Italia Flite saddle because I really like this saddle, (I have one on my other two bikes) and had a spare in the parts bin.

    Dropped 1.29 lbs in weight bringing the total down to 30.01 lbs.
    for fun I took off the valve caps to bring it to 30lbs even.
    The Thomson seat post will shed some more weight as soon as it arrives.

    Don't Let The Old Man In....he's knockin' at your door.

  150. #550
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    Quote Originally Posted by prj71 View Post
    I initially thought I wouldn't like the grip shifters after so many years of using trigger shifters. After a few rides I like them.
    I have to agree. Especially for Winter riding with pogies...

  151. #551
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    G'day guys from Australia!

    Loving my Fatboy with carbon forks, but fancy getting a Bluto
    Local bike shop can get me a Bluto for $600 Aussie dollars, which I'm going to order.
    But know hub needs changing, and read too many post and my brain is frazzled :-) so do I just need a 135/15mm with adapters (any hub or fatso specific?) or have to be a 150mm fatso(would like the option of sapping between forks I reckon)
    Seen some hope hubs on bike24 site, any good or shop around( local is very expensive if they order hub)

    Thanks guys and keep on rolling

  152. #552
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    Sorry if I'm wrong place, not that computer savvy.

    Specialized Fatboy-image.jpg

  153. #553
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    Quote Originally Posted by JASESPESH View Post
    G'day guys from Australia!

    Loving my Fatboy with carbon forks, but fancy getting a Bluto
    Local bike shop can get me a Bluto for $600 Aussie dollars, which I'm going to order.
    But know hub needs changing, and read too many post and my brain is frazzled :-) so do I just need a 135/15mm with adapters (any hub or fatso specific?) or have to be a 150mm fatso(would like the option of sapping between forks I reckon)
    Seen some hope hubs on bike24 site, any good or shop around( local is very expensive if they order hub)

    Thanks guys and keep on rolling
    You can either get a dedicated 150mm hub, or you can get a 135mm hub that is convertible via end cap replacements. Hope is the latter, there are others, but the Hope seems to be the most popular convertible hub. I went with a Salsa 150mm hub, which is not convertible - a bit of an oversight on my part, although at this point I am not sure the carbon fork will ever go back on.

  154. #554
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    Tomorrow I will have had the Expert for a year
    Ridden 3000km or so for the year, probably 2000 of those on the Fatboy.
    Lots of beach, sand tracks and general blasting. Don't use it for single track.
    Here is how it went.
    Original hub still going. E13 cranks still good.
    3 broken rear spokes. Tried recently to convert worn tyres to tubeless. Both blew off
    the rim, both ruined.
    Rear brake always gums up to the point of not working and squeals like a banshee. Don't want to upgrade, to much salty work
    Overall very happy

  155. #555
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    I've had my Expert about a year as well, I've ridden it about 1,000 miles/1600km - less than 20% of those miles are in snow (probably a lot less). I've been through two Specialized hubs (one axle, one bearings) before Specialized replaced it with an i9 hub. The brakes have been great, which really surprised me, I figured I'd be putting XTs on there by now. I set up the original Ground Control tires set up split-tube tubeless, put some Floaters on (tubeless) for the summer, then went back to the GCs again for winter (again tubeless) all without issue. I haven't had any issues with the cranks or bottom bracket. I busted the chain multiple times before swapping to a non-hollow pin chain, the original cassette and granny ring are just about done. I have a 42T to put on the cassette, but I'm waiting to swap out the drivetrain before I put that on. I've made many other changes including: Easton carbon bars, Salsa stem, Bluto, Salsa hub, 30T N/W ring up front, Reverb dropper etc, etc. Basically there's not much left of the original bike, but the changes are almost all due to personal preference, not bad parts or whatever.

    All in all, a great bike that I have enjoyed riding, I have never lost the passion for riding, but this bike has really taken it up a notch (again). I look forward to every ride.

  156. #556
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    Great long term reviews....thanks!
    I am more confident that I made the right choice for my first fatty.
    I have only a few rides on mine so far but look forward to posting up next year at this time. I'm sure The big grin will still be in place too.
    Don't Let The Old Man In....he's knockin' at your door.

  157. #557
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    I bought a Mongoose Dolomite last year and fell in love in fat bikes in spite of the bike. Fast forward to this year I knew I wanted to upgrade and looked at Motobecane, but I kind of felt like I was waisting more money to get to what I really wanted. I wanted a Fatbike I didnt have to upgrade for a long while. So I bit the bullet and put a down payment on a XL Fatboy in Green/Black. Due in Mid-March, but he mentioned there may be delays at the port. Regardless Im excited and can't wait to own a real fatbike. Specialized could not have picked a better name. Dolo going up for sale CHEAP.

  158. #558
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    Quote Originally Posted by kelbo View Post
    I bought a Mongoose Dolomite last year and fell in love in fat bikes in spite of the bike.
    kelbo,

    I hear ya. I just recently got a Mongoose Dolo ( I've been running mtb in the woods here for years). I'm liking this fat tire action as it get's through the thick grass and sugar sand way better that the mtb.

    I've only seen one other fatty in town so far (another Dolo) but the lbs has a fatboy on their floor and it's been there for months. Too rich for my blood at it's current price. I'm hoping that they get tired of having it in inventory and put a get rid of it price on it. They know I'm into the fat scene as I bought an mtb crank and bb cups/bearings for the dolo. If I get lucky, they'll make me an offer I can't refuse......

    So, I'm following this thread to learn about the fatboy just in case lady luck smiles on me.......
    CJ

    SW Florida

  159. #559
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jisch View Post
    You can either get a dedicated 150mm hub, or you can get a 135mm hub that is convertible via end cap replacements. Hope is the latter, there are others, but the Hope seems to be the most popular convertible hub. I went with a Salsa 150mm hub, which is not convertible - a bit of an oversight on my part, although at this point I am not sure the carbon fork will ever go back on.
    Cheers for that.
    so that means any 135mmx 15mm hub?
    any 15mm total adaptors?

    cheers

  160. #560
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    No, some hubs are convertible from QR135 to TA150, some are not.

  161. #561
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    Quote Originally Posted by JASESPESH View Post
    Cheers for that.
    so that means any 135mmx 15mm hub?
    any 15mm total adaptors?

    cheers
    You can buy the hub to fit your current fork, then the end caps come out and are replaced by these spacers:
    Hub Spacer Kits and Components — Hauck Bicycles

    hauck spacers | eBay
    You'll have to add the 7.5mm spacers for the discs, which is the biggest downside to the spacer method. If you're heavy and/or ride real hard, you might consider the regular 150mm hub. The ebay site ships worldwide. The I9 hub is best, but very expensive.
    I use Google to find this stuff, and bike questions asked there often find answers here.(easier than this site's search engine). Aussie! Aussie! Oi! Oi!

  162. #562
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    Re: Specialized Fatboy

    Quote Originally Posted by prj71 View Post
    Where can I buy the Specialized red rim strips? LBS tells me they can't order red rim strips from Specialized. Weird.
    Anyone?

    Is local bike shop blowing smoke up my arse telling me that they can't order the red ones from Specialized?

  163. #563
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    Quote Originally Posted by prj71 View Post
    Anyone?

    Is local bike shop blowing smoke up my arse telling me that they can't order the red ones from Specialized?
    They don't show up on the dealer site anymore.

  164. #564
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    Specialized Fatboy

    Quote Originally Posted by JASESPESH View Post
    Cheers for that.
    so that means any 135mmx 15mm hub?
    any 15mm total adaptors?

    cheers
    You'd need to buy a new hub either way.

    Unless you ride on 100% pristine groomed snow, I would just get a 150mm TA hub and be fine with it. I got a Bluto and kept the carbon fork/hub with the thought I'd swap it back for winter.

    That's not going to happen. Ever.

    Even on snow, most trails around me are multi use and the Bluto is fantastic for how uneven/bumpy the packed snow can get. (And for reference, I'm in Boston, and we've been getting SNOW)

    The Bluto completely changes the bike in a great way. In all conditions that I've encountered.

  165. #565
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    Specialized Fatboy

    A few I interesting notes about stem height and angle...before today's ride I decided to make my fatboy more "XC" by dropping it one spacer and flipping the stem upside down. On pavement it was nice being a little more stretched out. However, once I hit the snow (2-3 inches of very wet snow) the front end was very prone to washing out and handling was very twitchy in general. Off camber stuff was even worse than usual. I was actually getting kind of bummed out by it and was starting to think fatbikes were hype! About 2/3rds of the way home I decided to flip the stem back upwards, but left the spacers in the lower setup. I was immediately amazed at how much straighter the bike tracked and there was virtually no negative stuff happening in the front end. I was also shocked at how just flipping the stem pushed the bike over the edge handling wise. It definitely seems like fatbikes like more upright positioning. I may go back to the stock highest setting, but where it is right now feels spot on.

    Had anyone else experienced this too?


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  166. #566
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish29er View Post
    A few I interesting notes about stem height and angle...

    Had anyone else experienced this too?
    In soft snow, definitely yes, I know exactly how this goes. I often find myself trying to ride off the back of the saddle to get more traction, particularly on the uphills. However, in hardpack snow conditions, I prefer a more traditional XC position, though still fairly upright. It's all a trade-off.
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  167. #567
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    Anyone using the mudshovel front fender on their fatboy? Just wondering if the clamps will fit the shape/width of the downtube on this bike.

    Dave's Mud Shovel Mountain Bike Front Fender ? Pedal The Planet

  168. #568
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    Quote Originally Posted by prj71 View Post
    Anyone using the mudshovel front fender on their fatboy? Just wondering if the clamps will fit the shape/width of the downtube on this bike.

    Dave's Mud Shovel Mountain Bike Front Fender ? Pedal The Planet
    I've been using it on mine without issue. The straps are stretchy rubber so fit well:
    ‘19 Fargo Ti
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  169. #569
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    Re: Specialized Fatboy

    Kewl. Good to know. Thanks.

    Are these fenders plastic or aluminum?

  170. #570
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    I'm jealous of all the snow pix! We have had a super mild winter here in the PNW and my Fatboy has seen 2 days of light snow with maybe 20 miles of riding. The rest of the rides (nearly 600 miles) has pretty much been in the rain and mud. Original bb and rear hub are all working fine. The front hub is aftermarket since I switched to a Bluto.
    20 SJ Evo 29, 17 Whyte T130, 18 Giant Glory Advanced

  171. #571
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    We have the opposite problem here in NE. Too much light fluffy snow for riding. Great skiing, though.

  172. #572
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    Quote Originally Posted by prj71 View Post
    Anyone using the mudshovel front fender on their fatboy? Just wondering if the clamps will fit the shape/width of the downtube on this bike.

    Dave's Mud Shovel Mountain Bike Front Fender ? Pedal The Planet



    no problem at all....I trimmed mine a little to fit around the lower part of the headtube to extend it a little more forward..

  173. #573
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    With all the hub and BB issues I've read about. Has anyone gotten the "special edition" cranks?
    Specialized Fatboy-img_20150214_174810.jpg

  174. #574
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    Quote Originally Posted by prj71 View Post
    Anyone using the mudshovel front fender on their fatboy? Just wondering if the clamps will fit the shape/width of the downtube on this bike.

    Dave's Mud Shovel Mountain Bike Front Fender ? Pedal The Planet
    Yup. It's awesome. They are plastic. I trimmed mine to fit my frame a bit better.



    I have the rear too. It's... Less awesome haha. Good fender design, crappy clamp.
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  175. #575
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    Re: Specialized Fatboy

    -----
    Last edited by prj71; 02-23-2015 at 08:07 PM.

  176. #576
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeepVI View Post
    With all the hub and BB issues I've read about. Has anyone gotten the "special edition" cranks?
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_20150214_174810.jpg 
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    That looks expensive! Oh wait, JB weld! I think I'll go with aluminum.

  177. #577
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    Specialized Fatboy


  178. #578
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yoter View Post
    Nice picture. Where's it from?

  179. #579
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    I think the combo of cold air, wet snow, and disc brakes has posed a new problem for fat bike tech.....this thing gets insanely loud brake squeal. The neighbors must love my back yard track even more now....

  180. #580
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    Replaced mine with XT. Only squeezed when wet.

  181. #581
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    I have XTs on mine - with the metal pads they squealed like hell when wet, but the organic pads are much quieter.
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  182. #582
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    I kind of like that banshee scream as I descend...

  183. #583
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    Specialized Fatboy


  184. #584
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    I get some squeal when its cold out - but if I put some medium to light pressure on the brakes for a few seconds a few times it puts enough heat in the rotors/pads and the squeal goes away. P.S. great video

  185. #585
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    I picked up a Fat Boy SE over the weekend and I can't believe how much fun it is. it's a big change from my full suspension rig and I'm really enjoying the different riding style even with only two rides on it.

    Quick question on tubes and tires that I haven't been able to find a definitive answer on. I was told that I can't convert the Ground Control Sport tires to tubeless because they are 60 TPI. Does anyone know if that is true?

    Also, if I stay with tubes, it looks like I can use a 2.7" or 3.0" tube instead of a fat specific one. Can anyone confirm?

    Thanks
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Specialized Fatboy-image.jpg  

    Specialized Fatboy-image.jpg  

    Specialized Fatboy-image.jpg  


  186. #586
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    I have converted the 120TPI GCs to tubeless, I can't imagine why you couldn't convert the 60 TPI tires, I have converted other 60 TPI tires before. I believe those have a steel bead, so it's probably less supple than the kevlar bead on the 120TPI tires, but I'm sure a split tube set up would work. The less supple bead may make tape tubeless a bit more difficult, but those rims are really good for tubeless, they have a really good ridge to get the bead to seat against. You can use 3.0 tubes in there for sure - my experience (which is not shared by everyone) is that it's pretty easy to pinch flat those thin tubes.

  187. #587
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    I got some Specialized tubes - I _think_ they are 2.7 - 3.0. Probably saved a pound total. They weren't cheap at around $12 each if I recall - but the surly ones were $20 each. for tubes! Probably should have just ordered some Q tubes online...? As for tubeless - I debated for a while - I know of people who've had success and people who haven't, or it was just too much of a pain overall. So I concluded that I'd stick with tubes. I pretty much only ride this bike on snow covered singletrack - so flats are unlikely, even at 6 psi.

  188. #588
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    I've been running the Specialized 2.3-3.0 x 26" tubes fr the last 500mi and they have worked fine. I'd probably switch to 24" tubes the next time though as they wont balloon up as much when swapping tires.
    ‘19 Fargo Ti
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  189. #589
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    Thanks, I appreciate the advice. i couldn't believe the price on those Surly's either which is why I'm looking at the 2.7".

  190. #590
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    Quote Originally Posted by EXW View Post
    Thanks, I appreciate the advice. i couldn't believe the price on those Surly's either which is why I'm looking at the 2.7".
    FWIW, here is the SKU for the tube you are looking for.

    I bike with tires.

  191. #591
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    Quote Originally Posted by cardnation View Post
    FWIW, here is the SKU for the tube you are looking for.

    Thanks!

  192. #592
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    Nm....

  193. #593
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    Goodbye Dolo, Hello Fatboy

    I picked my SE up before I had to go to work today. I was able to get about a ten second ride in. Very excited to get out and hit the trail Monday. Thinking I might build a fat trike out of the old Dolomite In my spare time.



    Will be bluto'd eventually.

  194. #594
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    Anyone know the weights of each fatboy? Wondering how heavy the se is compared to the fatboy and the expert?
    Fatbike, XC bike, Gravel Bike....

  195. #595
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    nice yota!

  196. #596
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    Quote Originally Posted by solarplex View Post
    Anyone know the weights of each fatboy? Wondering how heavy the se is compared to the fatboy and the expert?
    My shop weighed both the Fatboy and Fatboy SE, I don't recall the exact numbers but the SE was around a pound heavier, maybe a couple ounces under a pound.

    The carbon fork looks to provide most of that savings.
    I bike with tires.

  197. #597
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    What are you Fatboy riders using for fenders? I am looking for lightweight off-road duty fenders to keep crud off me and, as much as I can, off my drivetrain and lower headset.

  198. #598

  199. #599
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    24" tubes will work ok? probably lighter too.
    Quote Originally Posted by Paochow View Post
    I've been running the Specialized 2.3-3.0 x 26" tubes fr the last 500mi and they have worked fine. I'd probably switch to 24" tubes the next time though as they wont balloon up as much when swapping tires.

  200. #600
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    Quote Originally Posted by tawaitai View Post
    24" tubes will work ok? probably lighter too.
    Yup- they work great
    ‘19 Fargo Ti
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