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  1. #201
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    I think someone was looking for a ride report on the bluto on the fatboy?

    http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/fat...-915317-2.html
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  2. #202
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    Quote Originally Posted by barry1me View Post
    lol to funny....I have my s works epic 29er sitting also as I am really enjoying this fat boy....only thing I miss about the epic is the 10lb weight shed. I need to drop some lbs.....how did you do the tubeless setup on your fatboy? I would like to try that but I am not seeing a robust setup yet(atleast from what I have heard). What is the weight of your setup now?
    My tubeless setup is gorilla tape and Stans. I got the rear to seal the first try, needed to do the front 3 times to get it to seal. I'm happy to report it is totally sealed and I am rocking this thing hard on the dirt with no issues at 6-7 psi.

  3. #203
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    I'm tossing this here, we've got a bunch of threads on the FB going.

    I picked the comp model for a reason, I wanted to bolt the parts onto it that I wanted, and then parts bin the rest for my kids bikes. I also really wanted the green.

    These brakes suck. Tektro Gemini. There's squat for adjustment other than reach, and the reach isn't even true reach. It's just moving the travel further from or closer to you. My front is great, the rear is horrible. I'm ripping them off today and tossing on my trusty BB7's.

    I also hated the gripshift, but that's a personal thing. Triggers were on within 3 rides.

    But otherwise, this thing is fun. Lots more than I expected.

  4. #204
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    Does anybody know the weight of the seatpost?
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  5. #205
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    The one on my large is just under 400g uncut. It is REALLY long too. I'm 5'10 and all the way lowered it still stuck up so much I could barely reach the pedals. It was command post climb height!

    The Command post is about 540g, so it wasnt a big weight gain to add a dropper! If you go the other route and install a carbon post you can shave a ton of weight off the bike.
    20 SJ Evo 29, 17 Whyte T130, 18 Giant Glory Advanced

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Lynch View Post
    The one on my large is just under 400g uncut. It is REALLY long too. I'm 5'10 and all the way lowered it still stuck up so much I could barely reach the pedals. It was command post climb height!

    The Command post is about 540g, so it wasnt a big weight gain to add a dropper! If you go the other route and install a carbon post you can shave a ton of weight off the bike.
    Ooops, heavy as a tank. Definitely I'll go for a carbon handlebar and seatpost. When the bike arrives (I've been told that I'll get it in September) I'm going to put it on a diet: Enve bars and stem, R1 brakes, XT cassette, XTR derailleur and shifters, Romin Evo saddle...
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  7. #207
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    I've had my Fatboy Expert for a few weeks now and been loving it. The grip from the Ground Controls is amazing and the bike feels soooo light and flickable, yet drives over obstacles like a monster truck. It is an absolute hoot to ride, can't wait to try it in the snow.


  8. #208
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    Hello,I currently ride a Muk2 in large size,and am thinking about buying a Fatboy Expert to replace it...Just have a few questions for those that own one...I'm 5'10, should I stick with a Large,or go medium? How is the gloss black paint holding up? Is the front derailuer cable prone to getting snagged when riding through thick brush? And lastly, will I get used to the grip shift(never owned a bike with it?? Tia for any replies....

  9. #209
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    I'm 6'2" with a 34" in seam and the large fits me well with a longer raised stem. The XL was a better fit in top tube length, but gave me very little clearance in top tube height. I wanted whatever clearance I could get for snow riding.

    I put black factory Effex vinyl over the wear areas of the bike (top tube, chain stays, fork tubes) and that should do a good job in preventing scratches based on my motorcycle experience.

    I haven't had any issues with the front derailleur cable, your leg protects it when riding.

    As for the grip shift, either you will learn to like it or swap it out. After using it a bit, I prefer it to the triggers as it doesn't hit the edge of your thumb when riding like they do, and you don't have to loosen or change grip to shift.

  10. #210
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    I'm 5'10 with a 31" in seam and I went large. The Medium felt too compact. The only issue I have is after installing a 120mm Bluto the Toptube is really close to the "boys". If I was to do it again I'd get a medium for the extra top tube clearance. If your stayign with the stock fork the large is ok.

    When I got my Fatboy my first thought was "the grip shift has to go!" but after a couple rides I really enjoyed it. When I installed Shimano brakes I couldnt reach the level without sliding my hands in, which would cause me to shift on accident. I switched to a trigger shifter, but i find I do miss the grip shift a little.
    20 SJ Evo 29, 17 Whyte T130, 18 Giant Glory Advanced

  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Lynch View Post
    I'm 5'10 with a 31" in seam and I went large. The Medium felt too compact. The only issue I have is after installing a 120mm Bluto the Toptube is really close to the "boys". If I was to do it again I'd get a medium for the extra top tube clearance. If your stayign with the stock fork the large is ok.

    When I got my Fatboy my first thought was "the grip shift has to go!" but after a couple rides I really enjoyed it. When I installed Shimano brakes I couldnt reach the level without sliding my hands in, which would cause me to shift on accident. I switched to a trigger shifter, but i find I do miss the grip shift a little.
    Thanks for the replies guys…Just spent more than an hour tooling around on a large expert, and a medium standard…while I love the orange colors of the standard(the black and red ain't so bad either, and just so happens to match my roubaix color scheme), the shifting, braking, and feel of the expert just felt so much smoother to me…Coming from a large Mukluk 2, I kinda like the extra room for the longer rides, so The large is definitely the Fatboy for me! I ended up getting $300.00 off (dealer promo), and put a little more than half down as a deposit…Now I feel like an 8 year old on Christmas eve…Can't wait to get the bike…it's looking like another paycheck or 2 (unless I can sell the Muk before than) before I can get it…for now it's in the dealers basement with my name on it….

  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by Davesnhere View Post
    Thanks for the replies guys…Just spent more than an hour tooling around on a large expert, and a medium standard…while I love the orange colors of the standard(the black and red ain't so bad either, and just so happens to match my roubaix color scheme), the shifting, braking, and feel of the expert just felt so much smoother to me…Coming from a large Mukluk 2, I kinda like the extra room for the longer rides, so The large is definitely the Fatboy for me! I ended up getting $300.00 off (dealer promo), and put a little more than half down as a deposit…Now I feel like an 8 year old on Christmas eve…Can't wait to get the bike…it's looking like another paycheck or 2 (unless I can sell the Muk before than) before I can get it…for now it's in the dealers basement with my name on it….
    Congrats! The price difference between the expert and standard is fairly significant, but after riding both a bunch I came to a similar conclusion. I also really liked the grippy pedals on the expert although I found out they grip your leg pretty well if you aren't careful

  13. #213
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    Specialized Fatboy



    Here she is in the wild.
    XL comp with a few changes so far. Weighing in at 30.66 lbs as pictured.

    1x10 with a SRAM 1050 cassette.
    32T wolf tooth on the front.
    X7 trigger shifter.
    Tubeless with the Pegasus tape- flawless.
    Thomson seat post, Pure V seat.
    BB7 with SD levers, HS1 rotors, Jagwire housing.
    Easton EA70 low rise bar.
    Ergon Biokork grips.
    YAWYD head cap.

    Love it.

  14. #214
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    Does anyone know the real weights of the stock bikes? Is that info already in this thread? I picked up a Fatboy today and it had to be 35+ pounds?

  15. #215
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    I think my large comp was closer to 30lbs, don't have an exact number sorry.
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  16. #216
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    On a park tools scale my stock large comp was 32 lbs.
    I went carbon bars, 1x10 and dropped some weight but added a command post and Bluto and it is 33 lbs now. I will go tuneless soon and that should get it back done closer to 30.

    My Stumpjumper Evo is a little under 26 lbs so I'm use to a light bike but I have no issues with the Fatboy feeling like a pig or anything.
    20 SJ Evo 29, 17 Whyte T130, 18 Giant Glory Advanced

  17. #217
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    Stock at home for my XL was 33.12 lbs. That's tubes and all the bits, including the stock pedals.

  18. #218
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    Thanks guys.

  19. #219
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    Muk Sold, Picking up My Expert Tomorrow Afternoon!!! No sleeping tonight!!! Can't wait!

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    Crap. Sounds like my rear hub has got gravel in it. Anyone able to pull it apart and lube it up? Gotta race this weekend and I'm riding fat, grind or not.

  21. #221
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    Have you read the posts by some guys on here with broken axles in the rear hub? Seems to be becoming more common on the Fatboys.

  22. #222
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    Specialized Fatboy

    Known issue for 2014 model year. For 2015 they changed to steel in place of aluminum. Mine replaced under warranty.

  23. #223
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    Quote Originally Posted by one4teen View Post
    Crap. Sounds like my rear hub has got gravel in it. Anyone able to pull it apart and lube it up? Gotta race this weekend and I'm riding fat, grind or not.
    I've pulled mine apart and replace the bearing with Enduro bearing. They are a standard 6001 bearing, most shops stock these. The OD is 28mm, ID 12mm and thickness is 8mm.
    Last edited by jackdz; 09-24-2014 at 04:19 AM. Reason: wrong bearing quoted

  24. #224
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    Thanks Jack, I'll get on it. Any dissassembly advice? I'll take whatever you've got.

  25. #225
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    You'll need an 18mm cone wrench, 4mm allen wrench. From the drive side, use the cone wrench on the cone (duh?) and insert the allen into the end of the axle. That will let you loosen the cone. Loosen the other side with the cone wrench, you'll need to leave the allen in the drive side. Pull the driver (splined hub) off and there is a bearing there. I used a socket with a 10 inch extension to drive out the opposite side. It's pretty easy. Mine were really bad, but I raced in extremely wet conditions.

  26. #226
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackdz View Post
    You'll need an 18mm cone wrench, 4mm allen wrench. From the drive side, use the cone wrench on the cone (duh?) and insert the allen into the end of the axle. That will let you loosen the cone. Loosen the other side with the cone wrench, you'll need to leave the allen in the drive side. Pull the driver (splined hub) off and there is a bearing there. I used a socket with a 10 inch extension to drive out the opposite side. It's pretty easy. Mine were really bad, but I raced in extremely wet conditions.
    i thought the problem is the axles on these fatboys.. not the bearing

  27. #227
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    This is excellent info here. Thanks for posting all of it from the 2015's being improved to how to replace the bearing.

    I gotta say I feel inferior to you guys because I have not worn anything out yet....

  28. #228
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    Quote Originally Posted by av8or View Post
    i thought the problem is the axles on these fatboys.. not the bearing
    I have a Fatboy Expert…have had it since last December and have 25+ races and many training rides. I have had zero issues with the axle. My bike is heavily upgraded and I probably should have started with the base model. The last race destroyed front and rear wheel bearings, bottom bracket and the brake calipers…..here's a pic at the finish.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Specialized Fatboy-2014-manatoc-4.jpg  

    Specialized Fatboy-2014-manatoc-2.jpg  


  29. #229
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    Well, it's a little different on the Comp hub. Drive side is creating a nightmare for me right now. Split ball bearings and half a stuck bearing surface in my freehub. I've got replacements, but I just can't get it out.
    FYI for me it was a 5mm allen, and a 17mm cone wrench. 6001 for each side, and 6902x2 inside the freehub - driveside. Inside the freehub was my failure bearing.

    Steel Axle in case anyone wondered.

    She's soaking in pb blaster right now.

    ...And we're off to the shop.
    Last edited by one4teen; 09-24-2014 at 07:42 AM. Reason: forgot a bearing

  30. #230
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    NOT trying to throw salt in a wound...

    I was wondering if any Fatboy owners wished for thru-axles, or is it not that big a deal?

  31. #231
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    Dang. I got mud on my rims once..... it was traumatic....

  32. #232
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    No salt sting here. I'm not a thru axle guy on my other bikes, and really have nothing against them, just don't have them. I really think that thru axle or not, the cheap bearings are the culprit for a few of us. I've got a new freehub on the way, and a really nice set of bearings for the whole sheebang. I'll have basically rebuilt myself into better quality.

  33. #233
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    Quote Originally Posted by NDTransplant View Post
    NOT trying to throw salt in a wound...

    I was wondering if any Fatboy owners wished for thru-axles, or is it not that big a deal?
    i have thru axle on my bluto..

  34. #234
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    Yes, that's true- if you install a Bluto (which I almost certainly would for the rocky trails of Arizona) you'd have a thru-axle on the front.

    I am almost certainly over-thinking specs parts prices geometries. lol

    Just wanting to 'get it right' the first time. One question I need to answer is will a fatbike replace my full-suspension 29'er, or be a supplement to the stable? Hard to know until I've had one awhile, I suppose.

  35. #235
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    I basically replaced a short travel 29er with my Fatboy. The big rear tire feels alot like an 80-100mm travel 29er in the rear thru the rough, but with the climbing efficiency of a hardtail.

    I went with a 120mm Bluto just to slacken it out and fit my riding style better. No regrets at all! I rode the bike hard all summer long in the dusty hardpack and loved it. Cant wait to see how it does in the rain/wet.
    20 SJ Evo 29, 17 Whyte T130, 18 Giant Glory Advanced

  36. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by NDTransplant View Post
    Yes, that's true- if you install a Bluto (which I almost certainly would for the rocky trails of Arizona) you'd have a thru-axle on the front.

    I am almost certainly over-thinking specs parts prices geometries. lol

    Just wanting to 'get it right' the first time. One question I need to answer is will a fatbike replace my full-suspension 29'er, or be a supplement to the stable? Hard to know until I've had one awhile, I suppose.
    that question has been posted so many times.. bottom line, it all depends on you.. how you ride and where you ride will ultimately decide if you want the fatbike to be your primary bike or part of your stable.. me being in san diego, i ride my fatboy primarily on trails here.. i ride it on the beach occasionally and road most of the time.. i have sold my 29er since.. upgraded parts on my fatboy and love riding it anywhere my legs can take me..

  37. #237
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    Thanks, av8or. It seems like nearly every opinion I've read related to all things Fatboy are overwhelmingly positive. Specialized must've got it right. I've yet to ride one, but it's awesome just to look at!

  38. #238
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    I don't really consider my fatbike a replacement for my HT 29er and my Carve Expert 29er is the geo the Fatboy is based on. It's nice to have a second bike to go riding on. The 29er excels in some ways I feel.

    Don't own a FS so I couldn't say there. Won't be long though.

  39. #239
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    I have an SWorks Epic 29er. It has been ridden twice this summer, mostly due to a commitment to race the fatboy, but I enjoy racing the fatboy. I'm amazed at how close the fatboy feels on the trail when compared to my SWorks. It handle very similarly. I could be on a Borealis tomorrow...but I love my Specialized bikes. I have my fatboy down to 27.4 lbs with pedal....can get the weight down below 27 lbs. with a switch to HuDu's that I have in the garage. I don't like how the HuDu's ride the trail when compared to the GC's. They self steer easier, bounce more and do not have the same traction, wet or dry.

  40. #240
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    I mostly notice advantage Carve when riding smooth hard packed with slight incline for 15 miles or so. Going as hard my personal hardest which I know would pale to others'. Noticed I used less energy to do it with the Ambit2. Felt like it too.

    I figure it's all in the wheel weight and tire width in that instance. That reducing the tire/wheel weight and width on the Fatty would again make all things pretty equal. I prefer to just grab the other bike and go instead though. But, like a monster truck vs a Silverado, upsizing the engine will overcome this. And the fatty will definitely help to upsize the engine.

    If I had to or wanted to only have one the Fatboy would stay.

    Good to know on the Husker Du's.

  41. #241
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    Specialized Fatboy


    Raced the FB this weekend. I was the only fattie out there. Bike did great.

  42. #242
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    ^looks like you're running SS?
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  43. #243
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    I had rear hub axle fixed with the SST version by my local LBS. Now cassette tends to get little loose while climbing.

    Can someone tell me if Sunrace cassette on Fatboy Comp 2014 need a spacer in between last pinion and free wheel ?

    I guess that's the root cause and they did forget to add.

    How thick it is ?

    thanks guys

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    Specialized Fatboy

    ^^not SS. 1x10.

    ^not sure about the 14s, but my 15comp had no spacer with the sunrace. Switched to sram.

  45. #245
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    Specialized Fatboy

    Still in trouble.... Too bad

  46. #246
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    Demo'd one with the Bluto last week. It was a short ride but pretty fun. My first time on a fat bike.
    No moss...

  47. #247
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    Quote Originally Posted by jackdz View Post
    I have an SWorks Epic 29er. It has been ridden twice this summer, mostly due to a commitment to race the fatboy, but I enjoy racing the fatboy. I'm amazed at how close the fatboy feels on the trail when compared to my SWorks. It handle very similarly. I could be on a Borealis tomorrow...but I love my Specialized bikes. I have my fatboy down to 27.4 lbs with pedal....can get the weight down below 27 lbs. with a switch to HuDu's that I have in the garage. I don't like how the HuDu's ride the trail when compared to the GC's. They self steer easier, bounce more and do not have the same traction, wet or dry.
    Can you list your mods? 27.4lbs with peddles is solid!
    I just weighed today and I was 28.49lbs with peddles, cage, speedo, and some mud.

  48. #248
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    Quote Originally Posted by barry1me View Post
    Can you list your mods? 27.4lbs with peddles is solid!
    I just weighed today and I was 28.49lbs with peddles, cage, speedo, and some mud.
    See http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/fat...ad-933049.html

  49. #249
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    good work...I see you have a 17.5...I will reweigh mine with no mud, and see how much it is. Im running a 19 with stock crank, brakes, stem.

  50. #250
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    Picked mine up Tuesday. Finally got to ride fri and sat. Climbs up steep wet, root covered technical sections like the wheels are filled with helium.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Specialized Fatboy-image.jpg  

    Last edited by scblur; 10-21-2014 at 07:47 AM.

  51. #251
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    Picked mine up today...some initial snaps...

    Specialized Fatboy-dsc_0104.jpgSpecialized Fatboy-dsc_0114.jpgSpecialized Fatboy-dsc_0112.jpg

  52. #252
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    I couldn;t find a Specialized Facebook "Fan" page so I created one...join up if interested...

    https://www.facebook.com/fatboyfanboy

    Show us your Fatboy

  53. #253
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    Any of you colder climate folks had a chance to try out the 4.6 Ground Controls in the snow yet? Still fall over here in NE, hoping to hear some good things about float and snow performance before the winter starts.
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  54. #254
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    I used my Fatboy last winter. The Ground Controls worked great. I rode with guys on Nates and I would say they were mostly comparable, perhaps slightly better in the snow. They are a bit less aggressive than nates, but they are wider.

  55. #255
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    Can't go wrong with gc's in/on snow. They just plain work. And are reasonably light for the size. Not snowshoe light, but a bit better paddler I'd say.

    rog

  56. #256
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    How do the GC's set up as tubeless?

  57. #257
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cape Codder View Post
    How do the GC's set up as tubeless?
    Easy money. I did mine with a split tube. You will likely have to put a ratchet strap around the tire to push the beads onto the rim so you can get the tires to take air. With the ratchet strap on the tire I inflated one of mine with a floor pump.

  58. #258
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    Dunno if the other post was the right place to post this so I'll post it here too.

    Anyway, blind bought a Specialized Fatbike. I made some custom vinyl stickers to cover the yellow and protect parts of the bike from debris.

    Peer Pressure ftl and yolo... lol...






  59. #259
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    Quote Originally Posted by NRS1FREAK View Post
    Dunno if the other post was the right place to post this so I'll post it here too.

    Anyway, blind bought a Specialized Fatbike. I made some custom vinyl stickers to cover the yellow and protect parts of the bike from debris.

    Peer Pressure ftl and yolo... lol...





    I think you have a bad case of ocd.. You bought a bike to be ridden and hence some paint chips on the frame will occur.. Otherwise don't ride it.. If you really want to protect your bike, get some clear tape.. You're making it too obvious.. And don't worry about your downtube.. I don't have anything there and i ride the trails hard.. No paint chips there

  60. #260
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    I haven't had a chance to ride it. I've had my Giant NRS 1 for like 15 yrs and have done lots of XC riding mostly up hill, don't worry I'll get use out of the new one too.

  61. #261
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    If you really wanna protect the frame, I'd rather take care about parts that are nearest to the tires. And also to chain and especially the part of right chainstay near front derailleur. In case of chain fall or it sticks to chain wheel... So protect outer part of chainstay and front part of BB at chain side.
    But in fact - after one or two small scratches you'll probably stop paying attention to the painting. 8-)


    Quote Originally Posted by NRS1FREAK View Post
    Dunno if the other post was the right place to post this so I'll post it here too.

    Anyway, blind bought a Specialized Fatbike. I made some custom vinyl stickers to cover the yellow and protect parts of the bike from debris.

    Peer Pressure ftl and yolo... lol...






  62. #262
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    Quote Originally Posted by av8or View Post
    I

    I think you have a bad case of ocd.. You bought a bike to be ridden and hence some paint chips on the frame will occur.. Otherwise don't ride it.. If you really want to protect your bike, get some clear tape.. You're making it too obvious.. And don't worry about your downtube.. I don't have anything there and i ride the trails hard.. No paint chips there
    Putting aside the OCD question, I have had my downtube dented a couple of times over the years from rocks flipped up by the front tire, not sure tape would have helped, so paint chips are a possibility. But, for sure, ride it and don't worry too much about the paint.
    Latitude 61

  63. #263
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    Quote Originally Posted by sryanak View Post
    Putting aside the OCD question, I have had my downtube dented a couple of times over the years from rocks flipped up by the front tire, not sure tape would have helped, so paint chips are a possibility. But, for sure, ride it and don't worry too much about the paint.
    For racing cars for ralley they use 3M transparent tape. Also for new cars sold to customers. E. g. on my Fabia, there is this tape at the lower part just befor rear wheels. Look at your car, or to any car newer than 5 yeras. It's quite usual.
    And if this is enough to protect the car with it's high wheel spins, it is surly enough for bike frames

  64. #264
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    Guys... I cared more about covering up the yellow than protecting the paint... Geez...

  65. #265
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    lol, okay, youd probably be horrified if you saw where I take my fattie (thorns, brush, sticks, scratches, etc.) I crashed going over a log the other day and put a small dent in her top tube already. ride her raw.

  66. #266
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    ^I think it looks great. I've thought about trying to black mine out entirely. Good on ya.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  67. #267
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    Alu is for beer cans.

    rog

  68. #268
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    Anyone use a bash guard? Which one?

  69. #269
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    Factory effex Black 16 mil universal vinyl is a great match for the Fatboy black paint if you want to protect paint or black out the factory accents. The clear works well if you don't want to block decals. I've used it on dirt bikes for years and it does a great job protecting wear areas and helping objects slide across it rather than scrape across your paint.

    No OCD here, but for $14 and half an hour of taping my bike will look a lot better down the road.

  70. #270
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    Just a question for all fatboy riders

    How high/low do you run your bars in relation to your saddle height.

    After many yrs on rd and XC racing I tend to have mine a fair way below my seat. I guess it is going to be trial and error, I have a set of 700mm carbon flat bars I can throw on but wondering what you experienced fatties think.

    Is a wider riser bar an advantage? or should I run a similar width to my 29er race bike?

  71. #271
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    Specialized Fatboy

    Quote Originally Posted by jackdz View Post
    I have an SWorks Epic 29er. It has been ridden twice this summer, mostly due to a commitment to race the fatboy, but I enjoy racing the fatboy. I'm amazed at how close the fatboy feels on the trail when compared to my SWorks. It handle very similarly. I could be on a Borealis tomorrow...but I love my Specialized bikes. I have my fatboy down to 27.4 lbs with pedal....can get the weight down below 27 lbs. with a switch to HuDu's that I have in the garage. I don't like how the HuDu's ride the trail when compared to the GC's. They self steer easier, bounce more and do not have the same traction, wet or dry.
    Curious what your build is to get down to 27lbs. That's awesome...


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  72. #272
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    Bar height

    Quote Originally Posted by fletchog View Post
    Just a question for all fatboy riders

    How high/low do you run your bars in relation to your saddle height.

    After many yrs on rd and XC racing I tend to have mine a fair way below my seat. I guess it is going to be trial and error, I have a set of 700mm carbon flat bars I can throw on but wondering what you experienced fatties think.

    Is a wider riser bar an advantage? or should I run a similar width to my 29er race bike?
    I put on a Ritchey 32 degree 80mm stem. It put the bars (RF Next risers) dead even with the top of the saddle. What can I say, I'm old. Not sure I'm going to stick with the stem. Will see how things work out after the snow falls, which is supposed to be in three days.

  73. #273
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    Picked up my new fatty, first time fat and its been 20 years since I rode a mtn bike. One thing about this bike is I just can't help but smile every time I ride it! Only mods are my own custom camo rim strips and a WIDE stand to accommodate those tires!Specialized Fatboy-image.jpgSpecialized Fatboy-image.jpg

  74. #274
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    Quote Originally Posted by fletchog View Post
    Just a question for all fatboy riders

    How high/low do you run your bars in relation to your saddle height.

    After many yrs on rd and XC racing I tend to have mine a fair way below my seat. I guess it is going to be trial and error, I have a set of 700mm carbon flat bars I can throw on but wondering what you experienced fatties think.

    Is a wider riser bar an advantage? or should I run a similar width to my 29er race bike?
    I think it's a very personal preference thing. A year ago, I was running 660 bars on all of my bikes and riding great. Now, I'm riding 730-740 (typically with a shorter stem), and when I ride anything smaller, it feels unstable. I've also come up more and ride my bars about level with my saddle, and sometimes a smidge higher. Old, yes, but I also find it allows me to breathe better and relax my shoulders. I currently have my fatboy setup with the Bluto at 120, a 50mm stem and 710 bars.

    I'd say throw the carbon bars on and feel it out. It takes all of about 10 minutes to swap a pair of bars...
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  75. #275
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    Went for a ride and didnt notice the slightly narrower width or los of height going from riser to flat. Felt quite comfortable going down the big flights of timber stairs to the beach.

    Have also put on a Thompson setback post which feels better than the std post

    I liked the carbon bar feel more than anything.

    Am really enjoying the beach riding, great decision geting the fatboy over building a 29 SS

  76. #276
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    Bike shop has a FB with full XTR, CF cranks, post, bars, super expensive saddle... You get the picture

    It weighs 27.8

    FYI

  77. #277
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  78. #278
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    I love the orange on this bike. I think it looks great.
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  79. #279
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    Had my Inaugural ride yesterday and it went AWESOMELY! LOL Best blind buy EVAR!



    Did some more sticker work to cover up the Yellow so I wouldn't look my friend's bike, his is the same model. Also made some white Specialized stickers for it.






  80. #280
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    Fatboy SL 26 lbs 15 ounces with pedals...
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  81. #281
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    Quote Originally Posted by MichaelHumpal View Post
    Fatboy SL 26 lbs 15 ounces with pedals...
    WOW - nice.

    What part of the country did you buy that?
    2015 Specialized FATBOY EC70 Seatpost & Bars SRAM X7/Wolf 42T 1x10
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  82. #282
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    Busted my rear hub yesterday: Cassette body and the bearing under it gone wild. Took it to LBS and spec send a complete new wheel, no question ask. 1300 km, 2 months. Seem to be the same hub, will see... But way to go for service! ;o)

  83. #283
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    Rode the fatboy on some of the trails I race on last night.....interesting but awesome fun. not goig to sell my superfly but the FB is a great training tool and seems to have me smiling al the time.
    Here we are going over the top of the You yangs
    Last edited by fletchog; 11-15-2014 at 02:12 PM. Reason: spelling

  84. #284
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    Quote Originally Posted by fletchog View Post
    Rode the fatboy on some of the rails I race on last night.....interesting but awesome fun. not goig to sell my superbly but the FB is a great training tool and seems to have me smiling al the time.
    Sure you're not.

  85. #285
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stump 29 View Post
    Sure you're not.
    The more bikes you have, the more you are a person.

    I'm six. 8-)

  86. #286
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    Quote Originally Posted by new8812 View Post
    Busted my rear hub yesterday: Cassette body and the bearing under it gone wild. Took it to LBS and spec send a complete new wheel, no question ask. 1300 km, 2 months. Seem to be the same hub, will see... But way to go for service! ;o)
    they upgraded my samox crankset to e.thirteen from the expert just 'coz i lost the puller cap on the samox.. had the bike for only 3 mos.. very happy customer..

  87. #287
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    Nice bike...


  88. #288
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    Just me...

  89. #289
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    Anyone got an idea on how much the FB rims weigh?

  90. #290
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    I try not to take offense

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    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  91. #291
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    Today I pretty much impulse-bought a Fatboy! Came home from work yesterday and was super sad about how snowy it was and I really wanted to ride. So bam! Got the tool for the job!

    All stock for now... but I might put on a some carbon bars that I have laying around, and I ordered a frame bag.

    Specialized Fatboy-10690333_10154813124135442_176459876787761589_n.jpg

  92. #292
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    Re: Specialized Fatboy

    Quote Originally Posted by Jeepnut22 View Post
    Anyone got an idea on how much the FB rims weigh?
    762 grams on my scale.

  93. #293
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    After 4 or 5 weeks of owning my FB i've had to change the bb30 bearings after just 4 dry weather rides and now replace the rear hub bearings and cassette body as the were completely shot ( one wet weather ride ). I love the bike don't get me wrong but the quality of bearings, hubs etc. are disgraceful for the price of the bikes Specialized, maybe explain to the bearing suppliers wtf grease is and why they should use it!!!! Rant over, thanks.
    I maybe getting older but i refuse to grow up!

  94. #294
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    first ride, fun.........

    had a blast!
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  95. #295
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    Quote Originally Posted by aussieinswitzerland View Post
    After 4 or 5 weeks of owning my FB i've had to change the bb30 bearings after just 4 dry weather rides and now replace the rear hub bearings and cassette body as the were completely shot ( one wet weather ride ). I love the bike don't get me wrong but the quality of bearings, hubs etc. are disgraceful for the price of the bikes Specialized, maybe explain to the bearing suppliers wtf grease is and why they should use it!!!! Rant over, thanks.
    Go back to the shop, they are VERY good on warranty return, excellent service.

  96. #296
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    Quote Originally Posted by aussieinswitzerland View Post
    After 4 or 5 weeks of owning my FB i've had to change the bb30 bearings after just 4 dry weather rides and now replace the rear hub bearings and cassette body as the were completely shot ( one wet weather ride ). I love the bike don't get me wrong but the quality of bearings, hubs etc. are disgraceful for the price of the bikes Specialized, maybe explain to the bearing suppliers wtf grease is and why they should use it!!!! Rant over, thanks.
    Spesh have always been the same - decent R&D for frames/geo etc but component parts are terrible

    My PF30 BB bearings lasted 3 weeks, which plainly is a joke

  97. #297
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    BB's and rear hubs have always been issues on Spesh bikes until you pay the big $ (even then, depending on if it's a "house" brand or if they doll out the cash to actually put someone else's decent equipment on).
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  98. #298
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    you just paid to have "specialized " write on your frame .

    you re not alone to have bearings problems here in france , it s same i ve already change bottom bracket and last week rear wheel bearings .

    excuse my poor english ...

  99. #299
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stump 29 View Post
    Sure you're not.
    The Superfly is an amazing race bike, much faster than I'll ever be.
    The Fatboy has opened up a whole new world of terrain for me, and it is great training having to push that little bit harder
    So glad I bought this over a 29er SS

  100. #300
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    Oh man, I feel like I'm cheating with this bike. I visited a old bike trail that I haven't been to in a very long time. It was effortless. LOL Also, named the bike. xD




  101. #301
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    Rode some pretty rocky, boney stuff this weekend. The Fatty hung right in there with a dude on a pretty nice Stumpy. The other guy on a hard tail 27.5 Storck did not fare so well...
    '15 Evil The Following
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  102. #302
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    My first year w fboy.

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  103. #303
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    I've just fitted a Bud up front as conditions have gone muddy.

    The GC's were skating and darting all over the place - super dangerous

    Plenty of clearance between the fork stansions.

    Knobs are huge

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  104. #304
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    I've been riding mine fatboy in sloppy conditions over the past 2 months with no issues at all with the GC tires. It is the only fat tire I've ever ridden, so I guess I wouldnt know if I was missing out on anything, but what I have seems pretty sweet so far.
    20 SJ Evo 29, 17 Whyte T130, 18 Giant Glory Advanced

  105. #305
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    I have ridden Hüsker Dü's, Nates, Ground Controls and a Bud. The HD's were the least capable of all. Nates were awesome in most all terrain. I find the GC's to be equal to the Nates, except bigger- so they get great purchase in the rear, but almost more self-steer in the front on dirt + lower psi's. Nothing I've ridden beats the Bud in front in deep snow. (Though maybe some of the newer offerings might- I dunno).
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  106. #306
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    During the summer when it was dry adn hard pack I ran about 8psi and didnt have to many issues with self steer unless I dropped to the 5psi range. In the wet I run 5psi and it seems to grip the roots/rocks real nice and just floats over mud and puddles and that.
    Compared to my trail bike there is a TON more traction so I'm pretty happy.
    20 SJ Evo 29, 17 Whyte T130, 18 Giant Glory Advanced

  107. #307
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  108. #308
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    I noticed that the top cap bolt/screw on mine is starting to strip a bit, and I'd like to replace it before it becomes a problem. Would anyone happen to know where I can get one of these online, and what size I should be looking for? I found a handful by just searching "top cap bolt" but they aren't beveled to sit in the little spacer like the one on the FB. (And I don't know if they're the right thread size, or if this is a standard thing.)

    Apologies for the most likely novice question!

    Edit: A-ha! Headset cap screw! (woohoo!)

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  109. #309
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    Swing by your LBS. They should have a bunch laying around. Or pickup a "fancy" new cap and you get a new screw with it.
    20 SJ Evo 29, 17 Whyte T130, 18 Giant Glory Advanced

  110. #310
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seventh-777 View Post
    I noticed that the top cap bolt/screw on mine is starting to strip a bit, and I'd like to replace it before it becomes a problem. Would anyone happen to know where I can get one of these online, and what size I should be looking for?

    Apologies for the most likely novice question!
    I have the Orange Fatboy (with the blue accents/stickers) and picked up the blue one for the bling factor: Headset Top Cap 1 1 8" | eBay

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  111. #311
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    Looks like way to much torque on that bolt? Might want to have the LBS check your headset.
    Quote Originally Posted by Seventh-777 View Post
    I noticed that the top cap bolt/screw on mine is starting to strip a bit, and I'd like to replace it before it becomes a problem. Would anyone happen to know where I can get one of these online, and what size I should be looking for? I found a handful by just searching "top cap bolt" but they aren't beveled to sit in the little spacer like the one on the FB. (And I don't know if they're the right thread size, or if this is a standard thing.)

    Apologies for the most likely novice question!

    Edit: A-ha! Headset cap screw! (woohoo!)


  112. #312
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    it rocks!

    Loving this bike!
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  113. #313
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    so today i had my wheel bearings replaced on my rear hub.. lbs says it was not covered under warranty... normal wear and tear.. apparently 3 of the 4 bearings were broken.. 4 wheel bearings? is this correct? had the fatboy for 3 mos.. but i ride it almost everyday

  114. #314
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    Hub bearings should not wear out after 3 months of normal high mileage, frequent riding.

    If water displaced the grease it is possible, though. As in creek crossings, lots of garden hose washing, rainy commutes.

    High quality hubs with seals that work are more resistant to moisture. I have read that these hubs may not be top shelf?

  115. #315
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    Quote Originally Posted by jan_nikolajsen View Post
    Hub bearings should not wear out after 3 months of normal high mileage, frequent riding.

    If water displaced the grease it is possible, though. As in creek crossings, lots of garden hose washing, rainy commutes.

    High quality hubs with seals that work are more resistant to moisture. I have read that these hubs may not be top shelf?
    Lbs said hardly any grease in there.. Never rode my fatboy in the rain.. never seen mud as well.. tires were hosed after every trail ride but the hub was avoided at all cost and bike was cleaned and dried after ( i take good care of my stuff, especially after all the money in parts invested ).. Soon as i heard the ticking sound this am riding on the streets, i knew it was my rear hub.. Prepared for the worst after hearing stories of hub failures in fatboys.. Anyway, lbs said my axle is fine, just bad bearings.. Took it out for a ride again this pm and everything was quiet..

  116. #316
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    I checked my front and rear hubs yesterday, no grease at all under hub end caps. Rear hub axle looked like steel, front hub axle was definitely made of alloy.

    After removing the end caps, I couldn't remove the freehub by just pulling it out, how should it be done?

    Going to check if the BB is completely dry today...

  117. #317
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    The freehub does just pull off, with some difficulty. You might have to use a soft hammer to tap out part of the axle. The bearings are sealed. There should be no grease outside of the seals. When I replaced my freehub with an xdriver, everything looked okay. I think these hubs are made by Formula btw.
    '15 Evil The Following
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  118. #318
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    Hey gearless... (Timmy), this is hot dog.... Yours is sweet. I just paid for a Fat Boy last night, go to pick it up today on my lunch break. Still can't decide on color. Originally thought I'd go black, but after seeing the army green in person. Damn! Army green is sweet.

  119. #319
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    Quote Originally Posted by av8or View Post
    so today i had my wheel bearings replaced on my rear hub.. lbs says it was not covered under warranty... normal wear and tear.. apparently 3 of the 4 bearings were broken.. 4 wheel bearings? is this correct? had the fatboy for 3 mos.. but i ride it almost everyday
    The broken bearings may have been caused by an axle problem. It is none of my business, but rear hub problems seem common in general on the fatboy. The parts were defective unless you abused them in some fashion, and should have been under warranty (barring abuse). Normal wear and tear should not come into play on a 3 month old bike.

    Can you share if your shop or Specalized were the ones to ultimately claim the job was not warranty?

  120. #320
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    Quote Originally Posted by adaycj View Post
    The broken bearings may have been caused by an axle problem. It is none of my business, but rear hub problems seem common in general on the fatboy. The parts were defective unless you abused them in some fashion, and should have been under warranty (barring abuse). Normal wear and tear should not come into play on a 3 month old bike.

    Can you share if your shop or Specalized were the ones to ultimately claim the job was not warranty?
    My lbs ( where i bought the fatboy ) was the one who decided it was not under warranty.. Paid $55 to replace the bearings.. They have been very good with warranty so far.. Lost my puller cap on my samox crankset last month and just needed that part, they however called up spesh and was able to upgrade my crankset to e.thirteen, the same as the expert for free.. They could have just said i'm sol but they got my new cranks..

  121. #321
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seventh-777 View Post
    I noticed that the top cap bolt/screw on mine is starting to strip a bit, and I'd like to replace it before it becomes a problem. Would anyone happen to know where I can get one of these online, and what size I should be looking for? I found a handful by just searching "top cap bolt" but they aren't beveled to sit in the little spacer like the one on the FB. (And I don't know if they're the right thread size, or if this is a standard thing.)

    Apologies for the most likely novice question!

    Edit: A-ha! Headset cap screw! (woohoo!)
    Yeah! The original part was cheapo. Got this from Kustom Caps. Colors matched my Expert.

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  122. #322
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    If you guys are stripping out that bolt, then you are over-tightening the headset or improperly adjusting. You only need a light pre-load on those headset bearings to take out any play.
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  123. #323
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    My LBS has been promoting the fact that the Fatboy frame will accommodate a variety of rim/tire widths, including the wider options. This seems like an advantage over bikes like the Trek Farley that are limited to 4" tires and narrower rims. I've ridden a 2015 Farley-8, though, and really liked it, finding that it seemed surprisingly quick and nimble. I was able to keep up with my buddies riding 29'ers.

    With the wider, Ground Control 4.6 tires on 90mm rims, the Fatboy that I've tested was stable and could rumble over darn near anything, but the acceleration seemed a bit slower, and the handling a little heavy compared to the Farley. The Specialized LBS said I could have them build narrower rims to accommodate 3.8-4.0 inch tires to create a trail/"Summer" setup. I'd like to get a fatbike primarily as a trail/"Summer" bike, with sand/snow riding as a secondary consideration.

    Has anyone tried narrower rims/tires (a "summer" setup) on their Fatboy? Did you find that the bike was perkier with this setup? Or, since the Fatboy comes standard with the wider rims/tires, maybe that's it's true comfort zone, and it doesn't really accommodate the narrower setups as well as fat bikes designed around, say, a 65 mm rim with 3.8 Nates (Salsa) or a Trek Farley?? Being able to go narrower or wide would be great, but not at the expense of the ride quality when setup narrower. The purported versatility almost seems too good to be true...

  124. #324
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    The Fatboy geometry is a copy of the Carve/Crave 29er, so I wouldn't see a slimmer rim/tire combo creating any problems for you. Just my 2 cents.

    Quote Originally Posted by FitmanNJ View Post
    My LBS has been promoting the fact that the Fatboy frame will accommodate a variety of rim/tire widths, including the wider options. This seems like an advantage over bikes like the Trek Farley that are limited to 4" tires and narrower rims. I've ridden a 2015 Farley-8, though, and really liked it, finding that it seemed surprisingly quick and nimble. I was able to keep up with my buddies riding 29'ers.

    With the wider, Ground Control 4.6 tires on 90mm rims, the Fatboy that I've tested was stable and could rumble over darn near anything, but the acceleration seemed a bit slower, and the handling a little heavy compared to the Farley. The Specialized LBS said I could have them build narrower rims to accommodate 3.8-4.0 inch tires to create a trail/"Summer" setup. I'd like to get a fatbike primarily as a trail/"Summer" bike, with sand/snow riding as a secondary consideration.

    Has anyone tried narrower rims/tires (a "summer" setup) on their Fatboy? Did you find that the bike was perkier with this setup? Or, since the Fatboy comes standard with the wider rims/tires, maybe that's it's true comfort zone, and it doesn't really accommodate the narrower setups as well as fat bikes designed around, say, a 65 mm rim with 3.8 Nates (Salsa) or a Trek Farley?? Being able to go narrower or wide would be great, but not at the expense of the ride quality when setup narrower. The purported versatility almost seems too good to be true...

  125. #325
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pillage&Burn View Post
    Hey gearless... (Timmy), this is hot dog.... Yours is sweet. I just paid for a Fat Boy last night, go to pick it up today on my lunch break. Still can't decide on color. Originally thought I'd go black, but after seeing the army green in person. Damn! Army green is sweet.
    yes, it is. I had no choice. they had one and now they have none!

  126. #326
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    I now have the e13 crank and BB on it's way to replace the somax rubbish and also they will pay 100euros towards the rear hub for what ever i choose to do with it which will be a new Hope Fatso hub. Thumbs up!
    I maybe getting older but i refuse to grow up!

  127. #327
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    Also in the blown freehub group, waiting to hear back from the LBS. Is the Hope hub a direct swap?
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  128. #328
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stump 29 View Post
    Yeah! The original part was cheapo.
    I use this tool to tighten stuff...

    Ritchey Multi-Bit Toqkey Wrench
    Cheers man! I actually have that Ritchey key already and it indeed the goods. I didn't overtorque the top cap bolt in my pic - that's what it looked like when I went to adjust it. It's actually fine (though I'm replacing it anyway), it just looks like whoever put the bike together got sloppy with the wrench.
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  129. #329
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    My Fatboy expert is also at the LBS with freehub issues. I broke a chain last night and riding it today I noticed it would self shift under load. I tried tuning the rear derailer and noticed that the rear cassette would wobble 3/8". At first I thought the cassette was loose but after double checking the torque the freehub was determined to be the culprit.

  130. #330
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seventh-777 View Post
    Also in the blown freehub group, waiting to hear back from the LBS. Is the Hope hub a direct swap?
    Replaced mine with a Hope BEFORE it blew up. Easy swap. Hope is loud and intimidating.

  131. #331
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    Quote Originally Posted by edgeworker View Post
    Replaced mine with a Hope BEFORE it blew up. Easy swap. Hope is loud and intimidating.
    So was my factory hub, but in a metal on metal snapping, popping kind of way. Glad to hear there is an alternative to the factory POS.

  132. #332
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    Quote Originally Posted by edgeworker View Post
    Replaced mine with a Hope BEFORE it blew up. Easy swap. Hope is loud and intimidating.
    Fatsno Rear hub | Hope Tech | Made in Barnoldswick, England

    This one, yeah? 190mm for the rear?
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  133. #333
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    I have 320 miles in my fatboy. With atleast half of that in wet conditions. No rear hub issues but im going to keep an eye on it now.
    20 SJ Evo 29, 17 Whyte T130, 18 Giant Glory Advanced

  134. #334
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    Quote Originally Posted by edgeworker View Post
    Replaced mine with a Hope BEFORE it blew up. Easy swap. Hope is loud and intimidating.
    Will the stock spokes work or do you need different lengths?

  135. #335
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    ...many miles on the Fatboy and swapped out the freehub for an xdriver unit (same design). i only weigh 142# and tend to be light on equipment tho...i have heard Formula makes our hubs, though they looked a lot like my Nova's.
    '15 Evil The Following
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  136. #336
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paochow View Post
    Will the stock spokes work or do you need different lengths?
    Yes. I swapped the front hub with a Hope when I installed the Bluto. First time for me. Did the same at the rear. I had my LBS tension and true each wheel. That part I have not mastered yet.

  137. #337
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seventh-777 View Post
    Yup. I missed the boat on this by replacing mine before it blew up but my buddy's LBS in NH got his warrantied by Specialized with a new Hope as opposed to another stock part.

  138. #338
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    Quote Originally Posted by soloyo View Post
    last updates
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    Hi

    can you give me the exact model of your crankset please ?
    100/175 or 190/175 Cinch turbine ...

    I set up a 190/175 on mine and it seems huge !!!

  139. #339
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    Quote Originally Posted by edgeworker View Post
    Yes. I swapped the front hub with a Hope when I installed the Bluto. First time for me. Did the same at the rear. I had my LBS tension and true each wheel. That part I have not mastered yet.
    Did you use the 135 or 150mm Hope hub? We're you able to use the same spokes or did you need different lengths? Thanks!
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  140. #340
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    I am considering a fatboy and putting 29er+ on it in the summer. Any thoughts from anyone?

  141. #341
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paochow View Post
    Did you use the 135 or 150mm Hope hub? We're you able to use the same spokes or did you need different lengths? Thanks!
    150mm w/same spokes.

  142. #342
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    Does anyone happen to know what a Fatboy medium frame (only) weighs? I'm trying to compare it to the Rocky Mountain Blizzard and Borealis Echo frames for a build I'd like to do soon and the frame weight info doesn't seem to appear on the Specialized website. Thanks.

  143. #343
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    Hello everyone, Im a new poster to the forums so please forgive me if I am in the wrong place, I didnt want to start a new thread. I read through all the threads about the Fatboy and did a search for sizing but did not really come up with much for size recomendations.

    I have the itch again for a fatbike and have decided that its time I take the plunge. I have ridden a few pugs and a mukluk and over the summer got to take a ride on a fatboy pro with the bluto and had a blast. I have decided if I am going to take the plunge its going to be the Fatboy. I have a shop I would really like to support in my purchase but It would have to be a special order from them.

    I am trying to decide what frame size to go with. My main bikes are a medium Surly Ogre, and a large Soma B Side. I am 5'11'' and about 190lbs for reference. I am almost positive that the Fatboy Pro I rode over the summer was a medium frame. However the other day I had a chance to jump onto a medium fatboy and rip up and down the road and it just didnt feel the same. Seated riding felt good, but I noticed that when standing and pedaling to sprint with any weight forward at all the front end just didnt feel the same. The stem is 10mm shorter then what im used to but it wasnt a quick or twitchy feeling, more floppy and sluggish if that makes sense. The tire pressure did seem to be very low, much lower than the one I rode over the summer was Im sure. I wish I wouldve been able to play around with pressures but It was just jumping on somones bike for a quick try. I guess my question is have any of you noticed this sensation when the tire pressure is very low? The bike shop reccomended the medium (would be just barely small enough for my girlfriend to ride as well, bonus!) but if it really came down to it I would rather jump up a size. The effective top tube between the medium specialzed, my surly and soma are all within about 3mm and the reach lands directly between. I would like to test ride more but its an hour drive to the nearest shop that has a medium and large in stock. Time isnt really allowing the trip and I also dont feel good about testing a bike at one shop to order it from another. Any words of advise from those of you who already have them? Sorry for such a long post and thanks in advance! I just want to be out there riding with all of you in the snow!

  144. #344
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    Off topic but did your shop tell you that specialized is sold out of every model of fat boy right now? Just saying if another shop has both a 17 & 19 that you can ride back to back it might be worth the drive, especially if you want the bike now.

  145. #345
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    I'm 5'10" on the nose. I ride a 2013 Stumpjumper Evo in medium with a 60mms stem and I've had an Enduro Evo, Fsrxc and a Rockhopper Pro 29, all in medium size.
    When I bought my Fatboy I tried a medium and a large and ended up getting a large. I swapped to 740mm bars and a 45mm and it is a perfect fit. It feels stable without being sluggish and I love the longer wheelbase of the large. The only issue I have is that with my command post extended fully it is too tall. I may need to switch to a 100mm version or a KS Lev.
    20 SJ Evo 29, 17 Whyte T130, 18 Giant Glory Advanced

  146. #346
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    Quote Originally Posted by NorthCoastZack View Post
    I am 5'11'' and about 190lbs for reference. I am almost positive that the Fatboy Pro I rode over the summer was a medium frame. However the other day I had a chance to jump onto a medium fatboy and rip up and down the road and it just didnt feel the same.
    I am 5'11" and have a 32" inseam. I went with the large frame. Seems right. I put on a 80 mm stem with more rise (way more) and am very happy with the geometry. Normally I would be all about erring on the downside of size, but I don't think the medium would be right. You need to just suck it up and buy your GF a Boris or something.

  147. #347
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    Quick question - vBulletin search is grim for stuff like this so apologies if it's been asked/answered.

    Anyone running the 4.8" Dillingers? Any clearance issues? I ordered a set and in my head, the GCs were 4.8 and not 4.6. (whoops..)
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  148. #348
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    I do. 5" Dillinger studded front and rear. 1x11. No issues.

  149. #349
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seventh-777 View Post
    Quick question - vBulletin search is grim for stuff like this so apologies if it's been asked/answered.

    Anyone running the 4.8" Dillingers? Any clearance issues? I ordered a set and in my head, the GCs were 4.8 and not 4.6. (whoops..)
    Dillinger 5's and the Bud/Lou. D5's actually are slightly smaller than the GC's:
    http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/bud...-a-938358.html
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  150. #350
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    Specialized Fatboy

    Yeah they are not much bigger than a nate. I think they actually came out to be a 4.25 tire. They fit my Mukluk no problem.

  151. #351
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    You guys rock. Thanks!
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  152. #352
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    Quote Originally Posted by NorthCoastZack View Post
    Hello everyone, Im a new poster to the forums so please forgive me if I am in the wrong place, I didnt want to start a new thread. I read through all the threads about the Fatboy and did a search for sizing but did not really come up with much for size recomendations.

    I have the itch again for a fatbike and have decided that its time I take the plunge. I have ridden a few pugs and a mukluk and over the summer got to take a ride on a fatboy pro with the bluto and had a blast. I have decided if I am going to take the plunge its going to be the Fatboy. I have a shop I would really like to support in my purchase but It would have to be a special order from them.

    I am trying to decide what frame size to go with. My main bikes are a medium Surly Ogre, and a large Soma B Side. I am 5'11'' and about 190lbs for reference. I am almost positive that the Fatboy Pro I rode over the summer was a medium frame. However the other day I had a chance to jump onto a medium fatboy and rip up and down the road and it just didnt feel the same. Seated riding felt good, but I noticed that when standing and pedaling to sprint with any weight forward at all the front end just didnt feel the same. The stem is 10mm shorter then what im used to but it wasnt a quick or twitchy feeling, more floppy and sluggish if that makes sense. The tire pressure did seem to be very low, much lower than the one I rode over the summer was Im sure. I wish I wouldve been able to play around with pressures but It was just jumping on somones bike for a quick try. I guess my question is have any of you noticed this sensation when the tire pressure is very low? The bike shop reccomended the medium (would be just barely small enough for my girlfriend to ride as well, bonus!) but if it really came down to it I would rather jump up a size. The effective top tube between the medium specialzed, my surly and soma are all within about 3mm and the reach lands directly between. I would like to test ride more but its an hour drive to the nearest shop that has a medium and large in stock. Time isnt really allowing the trip and I also dont feel good about testing a bike at one shop to order it from another. Any words of advise from those of you who already have them? Sorry for such a long post and thanks in advance! I just want to be out there riding with all of you in the snow!
    I am 5'11 and have a fatboy large, fits me well, the medium was just to tight for me

  153. #353
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    Thanks everyone for your help! I kind of suspected that this would be the case. Wishful thinking I guess. I too normally go on the smaller side of things but in this case I need to at least ride a large again. It will be a week or so before I can get to a shop for a ride but my gut is saying I'll end up with a large, I appreciate the replies! Thanks again!

  154. #354
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    FWIW I'm 5'10, 175lbs and the medium fits me perfectly. Everyone's different though, so definitely take both sizes for a spin if you can!
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  155. #355
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    I'm just about 6' with long arms and legs, I have never sat on a Medium, but the Large I have seems perfect.

  156. #356
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jisch View Post
    I'm just about 6' with long arms and legs, I have never sat on a Medium, but the Large I have seems perfect.
    Ditto. 6'0", 32 pants. Went large and it felt great stock. Haven't adjusted the fit at all.

  157. #357
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    Specialized Fatboy

    Just shy of 6'3" and riding a large with no mods. Happy with the fit...I ride larges in almost everything...


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  158. #358
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    Fatboy SE?

    I ran into a mechanic from a local LBS that carries Specialized and he told me that there is an upcoming Fatboy SE at a lower price-point. I did a quick search and didn't see anything. Has anyone heard of this?

  159. #359
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    Specialized Fatboy


  160. #360
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    Right on with the sizing: I am 5'8" with a 32" inseam and the medium fits me quite well. I bumped up my stem to a 70mm -6deg to get a lower XC position, but that is a personal preference. I rode the bike stock out of the box for a couple of weeks too. Specialized did a good job with the cockpit and handling of this bike. It is easy and accommodating.
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  161. #361
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    Quote Originally Posted by plussa View Post
    Fatboy SE pics and specs here: -Pyörähuolto.com-

    Interesting.... Judging from the price difference between this and the standard Fatboy in (Euros 1499 to 1999) this looks to be about $613 cheaper, which would put it in the $1400 price range of the new low spec Felt in the US. Looking through the specs looks like downgraded brakes, drivetrain, and possibly an alloy fork? Wouldn't be bad though for those folks who end up swapping out most of the parts anyway.
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  162. #362
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    ^Wow. If they get into the $1400 price range, they're going to sell like hotcakes.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  163. #363
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    They're already selling like hotcakes.

  164. #364
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    It will be nice to have something on a showroom floor that is in the neighborhood $1,500.

    FWIW - He said that they have one on order and expect it prior to Christmas. I frequent this LBS, so I'll keep an eye out for it.

  165. #365
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    I have seen quite some people asking about an XD-driver (XX1 freehub) for the stock Fatboy wheelset with the Joytech hubs.

    The partnumber is S141000002 and XD-Driver is available from your local Specialized dealer - atleast in Europe it is

    I hope this helps.

  166. #366
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    Just thought I'd pile on. Bought a base Fatboy a few weeks ago - intended use is winter singletrack riding in the snow here in Denver, CO. Hint hint weather gods. Normal bike is a Pivot Mach 5.7 Carbon. So far just dirt - and gotta say I really like the bike - I like the way it ride and handles. Yeah its heavy but it climbs pretty well, but you do get bounced around a little by the tires. I'm trying to enjoy the bike as-is and not start upgrading things - we'll see how that goes. But I did add a new stem with a little more rise and a carbon riser handlebar - between the two my riding position is where it should be. Anyway - I've never been much of a fan of the big bike companies but Specialized did a great job if you ask me. Now if it we could just get some snow.....

    Cheers

  167. #367
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    Tubeless makes a big difference to weight and makes the bike feel more snappy under pedaling too - a worthy upgrade if it's pretty much the only one you do

  168. #368
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    ^It's not a matter of if, but a matter of how soon I do it.

  169. #369
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    Quote Originally Posted by bonesetter2004 View Post
    Tubeless makes a big difference to weight and makes the bike feel more snappy under pedaling too - a worthy upgrade if it's pretty much the only one you do
    Agreed. But if you swap tires a lot, I've found the lighter specialized 26x2.3-3.0 tubes end up weighing about the same as Stans/rim tape and are a lot easier to setup. You do lose the puncture protection though so not a good option in thorny areas.
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  170. #370
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    A tubeless setup can be done successfully on these wheels with proper taping technique. You need to take care to do a good job with your taping due to the vent holes on the perimeter of the rim. You also need to use a non-porous tape or put enough layers so that the air does not bleed through all of the cutouts in the center.

    It is a very worthwhile modification for this bike, imho, as it allows you to run super low pressures while maintaining flat protection. You will lose roughly 1.5 pounds of weight total. Once taped up, the Ground Controls sit nice and snug on the rims. I've run pressures as low as 3 psi in wet and cold conditions with no problems.

    For tape, I have had success with Gorilla, Nashua UL duct, 3M Extreme Transparent, and even regular grade duct tape 4" wide. I thought the Gorilla worked the best. They all came out to roughly 100-120 grams of tape per wheel. With the thinner tapes, I needed to run multiple layers to get a good seal. With the thicker tapes, I was able to get away with one layer, provided I was careful.
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  171. #371
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    Are they discontinuing the standard fatboy. Their website for the fatboy and the fatboy se both take you to the fatboy se page. I have been trying to look up the fatboy to compare differences but haven't been able to.

  172. #372
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    ^At least I can see all four models, only the Fatboy SL is missing.

    ^^ I have had success with cling film. I wrapped tightly around the rim 8 times, taped the seam with Scotch tough duct tape and pushed the valve through the wrap. Inflated very easily thanks to the concave shape the tight wrap makes, and has been holding air nicely for 3 weeks now. Weight approximately 10g per wheel...

  173. #373
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    I watched a youtube video out of the UK on this method. Would like to try. can you tell me what kind of cling wrap? Does Just regular kitchen grade work? Can you buy it in narrower widths or do just cut off the extra and call it good?
    Also, did you inflate once and then deflate and break the bead and add some stan's before riding? Thanks! -C

  174. #374
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vincent Billy View Post
    Hi

    can you give me the exact model of your crankset please ?
    100/175 or 190/175 Cinch turbine ...

    I set up a 190/175 on mine and it seems huge !!!
    Soloyo also has the 190mm spaced CINCH Turbines, however if you already have a RF CINCH crank and DM ring, you can order our 170mm spaced spindle kit (PN F30031) and flip your DM chainring outboard. This will clear a 4.8" tire and will yield the tightest Q-Factor possible (202mm). This setup only works for 1x setups with our DM rings though, so if you're running a 2x or non-DM ring, you'll need the 190mm spaced spindle. Hope this helps!

  175. #375
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    Quote Originally Posted by RaceFace-suit View Post
    Soloyo also has the 190mm spaced CINCH Turbines, however if you already have a RF CINCH crank and DM ring, you can order our 170mm spaced spindle kit (PN F30031) and flip your DM chainring outboard. This will clear a 4.8" tire and will yield the tightest Q-Factor possible (202mm). This setup only works for 1x setups with our DM rings though, so if you're running a 2x or non-DM ring, you'll need the 190mm spaced spindle. Hope this helps!
    I've been looking into this the past couple of days. I measured today and the granny ring on my 2x measures at ~70mm. According to this chart the setup with a flipped DM ring should be at 75mm - 5mm more clearance that I'm running currently. So, yes, it should work.

    Have you heard of any issues with this system? Is there any reason people wouldn't be running it on a 190mm setup?

    Thanks!

  176. #376
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    Quote Originally Posted by jester6578 View Post
    I've been looking into this the past couple of days. I measured today and the granny ring on my 2x measures at ~70mm. According to this chart the setup with a flipped DM ring should be at 75mm - 5mm more clearance that I'm running currently. So, yes, it should work.

    Have you heard of any issues with this system? Is there any reason people wouldn't be running it on a 190mm setup?

    Thanks!
    Hey Jester,

    Haven't heard of any real issues yet as everything we've tested it on, hasn't yielded any clearance issues. The chain will be marginally closer to the tire with the flipped DM on 170 setup, so the only thing we've come across was very minor chain slap against tire (4.8" while in granny) however it was minor, so chain was never caught up on tire causing issue.

    I'm running this exact setup on our Fatbike Mule which happens to be a Fatboy, so I'm pretty confident in this setup. Other than wanting a wider chainline, I can't really see a reason to run the 190 spaced spindle with a 1x setup. When the 190mm spaced standard was introduced, everyone loved the ability to run the wider tires, btu we heard lots of negative feedback regarding the massive Q-Factor you were forced into. That's why the 170mm spaced spindle w/ flipped DM seems to be the best of both worlds; tighter Q and the ability to clear 4.8" tires.

    Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks!

  177. #377
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    Quote Originally Posted by jester6578 View Post
    I've been looking into this the past couple of days. I measured today and the granny ring on my 2x measures at ~70mm. According to this chart the setup with a flipped DM ring should be at 75mm - 5mm more clearance that I'm running currently. So, yes, it should work.

    Have you heard of any issues with this system? Is there any reason people wouldn't be running it on a 190mm setup?

    Thanks!
    Not positive what this is all in reference to, but I had a RF Next SL 175 length, 170 spindle running with a RF Direct Mount ring and ran it just fine w/ a 42t ring in back and Ground Control. DM ring was not flipped to err out, but in.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  178. #378
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    Specialized Fatboy

    Quote Originally Posted by floorguy View Post
    Are they discontinuing the standard fatboy. Their website for the fatboy and the fatboy se both take you to the fatboy se page. I have been trying to look up the fatboy to compare differences but haven't been able to.
    You might have to change region to view it.

    The Australian site doesn't list the SE version. If I change to U.S. I can view it.

    I wonder if there are any shops that would ship an SE model to Australia for me. We'll probably get dudded, and won't be offered this model...

  179. #379
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    Quote Originally Posted by celdred1 View Post
    Does Just regular kitchen grade work? Can you buy it in narrower widths or do just cut off the extra and call it good?
    Also, did you inflate once and then deflate and break the bead and add some stan's before riding? Thanks! -C
    Regular kitchen grade works, and you can split the roll with a utility knife so you get two rolls that are just enough wide for Fatboy rims.

    • Wipe the rim edge clean with alcohol, to make sure the first layer of cling wrap grips the edge and does not slip
    • Wrap around 5-10 times. Keep the the wrap tight and stretched all the time to avoid wrinkles.
    • Tape the seam with gorilla tape or clear duct tape
    • Push the valve through the wrap and tighten the nut
    • Very carefully install the tire and do not break the top wrap layer at this point
    • Because the wrap does not touch the rim fully at this point, inflating is very easy. Tire bead should be touching the wrap already. I used a compressor and put sealant when putting the tire on, no need to inflate/deflate/break the bead. Using a floor pump only could be possible too... Tire bead was wet of sealant from previous installation, so it was slippery and popped easily. A slippery tire bead also does not grab the wrap, as it's kind of tacky.
    • After the tire has popped, do the Stan's shake and trim the edges with a utility knife. Air pressure now presses the wrap tightly around rim like tape. 8 layers are actually quite strong, just try pushing your finger through it.


    Here's how the rim looks after 8 tight wraps done with a full-width roll:


  180. #380
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    My only concern about the cling wrap method - can you remount tires without having to re-do it? Seems like there's a good possibility of wrecking it when you remove a tire. It looks like a great option.

  181. #381
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    No, it's one-time use only just like the popular split tube ghetto method. But cheaper to replace...

  182. #382
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    Gotcha, I re-use split tube liners (I'm on my third tires with my current split tubes). I don't change tires that often, so cling wrap is still a good option, I'll try it with my next tire change.

  183. #383
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    I recently got a Fatboy and tried Scotch Transparent tape on the front wheel, and Tyvek tape on the rear following this writeup: Tubeless Fatbike Conversion Update | Cycles In Life

    They both sealed up so easily I had to do a double take (w/o wrapping a tube around, just horizontal on a bucket w/ "loose" bead down). I also started with 4oz of Orange Seal. They've lost a bit of air, so I'm going to add 2 more oz to each and I think that'll do it. I don't hear any sloshing anymore, and I can't find any specific leaking air, so I think the tires just need to be plugged up a bit w/ sealant.

    I'll update again, but it was so damn easy that even if I need to pump up before a ride, I'd do it again every time.

  184. #384
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    Once you get the system sealed, it loses virtually no air. I have found the Ground Controls to be quite good in that regard. I have also taken them off and remounted several times with no issues. The tires work really well tubeless. My tires weighed 1,500 grams each. This partially explains their durability. These are high quality tires with uniform dimensions.
    '15 Evil The Following
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  185. #385
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    What's the difference between the Expert and the Base model (not SE, former base model with carbon fork)? The Spec website no longer has a page for this model, only the SE? I amtrying to decide between Expert and base model and want to know what the $$$ buys me.

  186. #386
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    Canadian site still have them: Specialized Bicycle Components

  187. #387
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    Quote Originally Posted by dcubed View Post
    What's the difference between the Expert and the Base model (not SE, former base model with carbon fork)? The Spec website no longer has a page for this model, only the SE? I amtrying to decide between Expert and base model and want to know what the $$$ buys me.
    base has samox crankset, x7 rear derailleur and tektro brakes.. expert has e.thirteen crankset, xo rear derailleur and shimano brakes.. also aside from different spokes and nipples everything else is the same

  188. #388
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    Thanks to you both. Do the Samox and Tektro stuff have a history? Is it just cheap Chinese crap?

  189. #389
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    Quote Originally Posted by dcubed View Post
    Thanks to you both. Do the Samox and Tektro stuff have a history? Is it just cheap Chinese crap?
    you get what you pay for.. they are pos.. i have a base fatboy but have upgraded to bluto, e.thirteen cranks (free upgrade from spesh), xo rear derailleur, xt brakes, icetech rotors (206mm f / 180mm r), reverb dropper..

  190. #390
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    Specialized Fatboy

    For how I have been using this bike (ocean beach, snow, mud, road salt etc.). The lower end the components, the better. When you wear them out, you can find great deals online to upgrade or just keep buying the cheap stuff. Given how heavy the wheels are, I doubt you will notice much difference in the performance unless you are racing. The x7 has been fine


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  191. #391
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    Quote Originally Posted by dcubed View Post
    Thanks to you both. Do the Samox and Tektro stuff have a history? Is it just cheap Chinese crap?
    The Tektro works well enough. It's not going to blow you away, or inspire too much confidence during dirt riding. But should be fine for snow. The crank is pretty meh, I just swapped out to a RaceFace 1x Cinch crank - but that was mostly for q-factor.

    The Shimano Deore brakes would be a substantial upgrade. And the e.thirteen crank would be noticeable as well. Same with the rear X0.

    If you would plan to upgrade any of these parts from stock, then getting the Expert is probably worth it. I would see no reason to replace any of these.

  192. #392
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    Quote Originally Posted by RaceFace-suit View Post
    Hey Jester,

    Haven't heard of any real issues yet as everything we've tested it on, hasn't yielded any clearance issues. The chain will be marginally closer to the tire with the flipped DM on 170 setup, so the only thing we've come across was very minor chain slap against tire (4.8" while in granny) however it was minor, so chain was never caught up on tire causing issue.

    I'm running this exact setup on our Fatbike Mule which happens to be a Fatboy, so I'm pretty confident in this setup. Other than wanting a wider chainline, I can't really see a reason to run the 190 spaced spindle with a 1x setup. When the 190mm spaced standard was introduced, everyone loved the ability to run the wider tires, btu we heard lots of negative feedback regarding the massive Q-Factor you were forced into. That's why the 170mm spaced spindle w/ flipped DM seems to be the best of both worlds; tighter Q and the ability to clear 4.8" tires.

    Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks!
    Hey Suit,

    Thanks for your response before! I just installed the Next SL cranks and had a couple of questions:
    1. With the preload ring, I didn't use the crush washer - is that correct?
    2. When I tried using the spindle shims (as well as the Specialized large spacers), tightening the crank arm was putting tension on the bearings. I didn't use them and took up the small bit of slack with the preload ring - do you have a similar setup on the Fatboy Mule? Or are you using a RaceFace BB as well?
    3. When I tightened the preload ring "finger tight", the cranks spun freely, but when I tightened the bolt on said ring, it put tension on the bearings and they were binding. I did a bit of trial and error and backed the ring off just enough so that there wasn't tension when I tightened that bolt - is this normal?


    As they are setup right now, the cranks seem awesome! Just want to make sure I did it right!

    Thanks!

  193. #393
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    Quote Originally Posted by av8or View Post
    you get what you pay for.. they are pos.. i have a base fatboy but have upgraded to bluto, e.thirteen cranks (free upgrade from spesh), xo rear derailleur, xt brakes, icetech rotors (206mm f / 180mm r), reverb dropper..
    How did you get the free crankset upgrade from Spesh?

  194. #394
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    Thanks for the perspective. My LBS has no Experts, only the base model, hence my questions.

  195. #395
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    Quote Originally Posted by dcubed View Post
    How did you get the free crankset upgrade from Spesh?
    i lost the puller cap on my samox crankset.. told my lbs if they can get the part for me otherwise it will be next to impossible to remove the crankset.. they spoke with spesh and spesh sent the the whole e.thirteen bb and crankset..

  196. #396
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    Quote Originally Posted by dcubed View Post
    How did you get the free crankset upgrade from Spesh?
    I got a freebie upgrade to Turbine Cinches. The drive side pedal threads on my crappy Samox stockers stripped out, and they just ended up replacing them with the RFs.
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  197. #397
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    Quote Originally Posted by jester6578 View Post
    The Tektro works well enough. It's not going to blow you away, or inspire too much confidence during dirt riding. But should be fine for snow. The crank is pretty meh, I just swapped out to a RaceFace 1x Cinch crank - but that was mostly for q-factor.

    The Shimano Deore brakes would be a substantial upgrade. And the e.thirteen crank would be noticeable as well. Same with the rear X0.

    If you would plan to upgrade any of these parts from stock, then getting the Expert is probably worth it. I would see no reason to replace any of these.
    I've been pleased with the basic performance of these parts. I didn't think there was enough of a difference between the price of a Base and the price of the Expert to warrant the extra expense for a novice rider like myself. In fact, during test rides, the biggest difference I noticed was in the pedals with the Bennies on the Expert feeling mighty tasty.

    My experience so far has reinforced the wisdom of that decision, and I'll upgrade when or if and when the initial items give way...or I become a lot more demanding rider...or both.

  198. #398
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    Quote Originally Posted by av8or View Post
    base has samox crankset, x7 rear derailleur and tektro brakes.. expert has e.thirteen crankset, xo rear derailleur and shimano brakes.. also aside from different spokes and nipples everything else is the same
    You forgot the most important one.... RED!!!



    Although after seeing the Orange in person, and watching Koekoek flog it in this vid (https://youtu.be/3wQyYCkk8FU) it is a awesome looking bike as well.
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  199. #399
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    Cool vid!! Love my "orange crush".

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    64km on the beach today. Fatboy at Blackrock on the Victorian West coast

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