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Thread: Slime tube

  1. #1
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    Slime tube

    I'm planning to go to the great city of lost wages sometime later this fall for biking - not a cent for the hucksters. I've been advised to use tubeless with leak stopping fluid for all the thorns on the desert trails. I am not interested right now in going tubeless and there are no slime tubes for fat bikes.

    I'd like to slit my spare surly tubes and inject slime that I've got in a bottle, then patch the tube. Has anyone done anything like this and did it work? How much should each tube get (for 4.6" specialized fatboy tires)?

    The slime tubes have worked really well in my local-ride-with-the-dogs mtb even on the farms around our ranch where the field roads are lined with puncture vine.

    Please, let's discuss slime and making slime tubes, not why I should go tubeless. I've seen that post already. I probably will ultimately fool around with tubeless on one bike or the other.

  2. #2
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    for your tires get some quality brand 26 x 2.4-2.7 (not the q-lites) presta valve with removable cores. they are 280 grams per tube with .9mm thickness. inject 2 scoops worth of stanz sealant into each tube and ride to your hearts content.

    if you were running smaller tires in the 3.8-4" range i'd say go for the q-lites, but even then yer only saving about 25 grams per tube for a thinner less durable tube.

    rog

  3. #3
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    Surly fat toobs should have removable cores anyways so you shouldn't have to cut open the tube. Just remove the valve core then inject the slime through there.

    I'm guessing you don't care much about weight since you want to run fat slime tubes but stans sealant might be a lighter option like rog mentioned. You can make homebrew sealant too if you want to try that.

  4. #4
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    I have had slime in my surly tubes for 2 years now. Got a flat once because the sealant dried up or all leaked out. I live in goathead and mesquite country. Added a fresh bottle and all has been good again. Why would you slit your tubes to add sealent when you can just remove the valve core? Even the non removable prestas will push all the way into the tube if you remove the nut.

  5. #5
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    Sealant in Fat Tubes

    Quote Originally Posted by telemike View Post
    I'm planning to go to the great city of lost wages sometime later this fall for biking - not a cent for the hucksters. I've been advised to use tubeless with leak stopping fluid for all the thorns on the desert trails. I am not interested right now in going tubeless and there are no slime tubes for fat bikes.

    I'd like to slit my spare surly tubes and inject slime that I've got in a bottle, then patch the tube. Has anyone done anything like this and did it work? How much should each tube get (for 4.6" specialized fatboy tires)?

    The slime tubes have worked really well in my local-ride-with-the-dogs mtb even on the farms around our ranch where the field roads are lined with puncture vine.

    Please, let's discuss slime and making slime tubes, not why I should go tubeless. I've seen that post already. I probably will ultimately fool around with tubeless on one bike or the other.
    I've been running sealant in my fat tubes this entire year with not a single flat. The Surly tubes should have removable cores - check first before slitting the tube. You will want 4 oz. per tube.

  6. #6
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    wait, so this is serious and not a troll post?

    slit a tube to add sealant, then patch? that made me laugh.

    go tubeless or go home.

  7. #7
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    Re: Slime tube

    Quote Originally Posted by NateHawk View Post
    wait, so this is serious and not a troll post?

    slit a tube to add sealant, then patch? that made me laugh.

    go tubeless or go home.
    Not a joke. We use to slit and patch a presta tube to add sealant if the valve core was not removable, and prefilled tubes rare.

    Tubeless is not a cure all. In three years of riding fat bikes, all with tubes, I have had two flats. Both when using 2.1-2.3 tubes and the tire suddenly deflated. No holes found later.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post

    Tubeless is not a cure all. In three years of riding fat bikes, all with tubes, I have had two flats. Both when using 2.1-2.3 tubes and the tire suddenly deflated. No holes found later.
    I had no riding flats with tubes last winter, but with 2.1-2.3s, you had to have massively out-of-round tires near the valve?

    I tried some of the supposed tubeless methods from this forum, but I couldn't get it to work. I'm going to do ghetto tubeless this year, I've always had great success with that on every other platform.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  9. #9
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    Re: Slime tube

    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    I had no riding flats with tubes last winter, but with 2.1-2.3s, you had to have massively out-of-round tires near the valve?

    I tried some of the supposed tubeless methods from this forum, but I couldn't get it to work. I'm going to do ghetto tubeless this year, I've always had great success with that on every other platform.
    No. No low spot at the valve with even a Big Fat Larry on a Large Marge.

    I did expect one.
    mtbtires.com
    The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    No. No low spot at the valve with even a Big Fat Larry on a Large Marge.

    I did expect one.
    So what's the secret, I've had low spots with every tube, differing amounts depending on the size of the tube.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  11. #11
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    Re: Slime tube

    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    So what's the secret, I've had low spots with every tube, differing amounts depending on the size of the tube.
    Not sure. Maybe the rim width, it being double wall, and/or prestretching the tube before installing.
    mtbtires.com
    The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common

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