singlespeed fat bike ratio- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    singlespeed fat bike ratio

    I'm thinking of converting my 1x11 salsa mukluk to a single speed for this winter to save my 1x11 drivetrain. I have a spare 30t chainring. I would need to get a cog and a chain.

    With a 30 tooth chainring, do I have to have an even number cog?
    I'm thinking that a 22 tooth cog would be a decent ratio since snow conditions vary quite a bit. Is that the largest single speed cog available?

    Anyone run into any problems with picking the wrong ratio when going singlespeed?

  2. #2
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    No, you don't have to go with an even cog. What you might want to do is go look at a chainstay length ratio calculator to see what ratio works close with your desired Mukluk chainstay length/position - http://www.eehouse.org/fixin/formfmu.php

    FYI 30x20 is between 32x21 and 32x22 ratios. On 2014-2015 Mukluks, 32x22 or 30x20 works out to almost the shortest setting on the alternator dropouts.
    "I ride to clear my head, my head is clearer when I'm riding SS. Therefore, I choose to ride SS."~ Fullrange Drew

  3. #3
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    If you are looking for something larger than 22T, bring up the Pinion website and look under the accessories column; 24 - 26 - & 30T?
    "Courage is being scared to death and saddling up anyway" John Wayne

  4. #4
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    I ran 22\22 on my Pugsley. It was quite low, but made for some good snowy riding in the Colorado front range mountains

  5. #5
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    Endless Cog makes 23-25T Cogs also.
    "I ride to clear my head, my head is clearer when I'm riding SS. Therefore, I choose to ride SS."~ Fullrange Drew

  6. #6
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    I went back through several of my winter rides. On fast snow, my moving average was about 10 mph. On loose snow, breaking trail my average was down to 4 mph. Iím now worried that even a 1:1 ratio isnít going to cut it!

  7. #7
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    22/22 is very slow; well, i'm also referencing how it felt on dirt/pavement, but it was always good for towing my daughter on green/blue trails. I found it better for going uphill (as best as one could) and then just learned to use momentum for the downhills and it was workable. I only had one good snowride on it. On the sourdough trail up around nederland, colorado, but it was well packed in from hikers. There was definitely a limit where too much fresh snow wasn't rideable but I don't recall #'s.

    It was fun though! easy, just grab the bike and go, no worries about shifting. I would do it again.
    Silly bike things happening.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jaker View Post
    I'm thinking of converting my 1x11 salsa mukluk to a single speed for this winter to save my 1x11 drivetrain. I have a spare 30t chainring. I would need to get a cog and a chain.

    With a 30 tooth chainring, do I have to have an even number cog?
    I'm thinking that a 22 tooth cog would be a decent ratio since snow conditions vary quite a bit. Is that the largest single speed cog available?

    Anyone run into any problems with picking the wrong ratio when going singlespeed?
    How and where are you planning on using the bike? Singletrack, commuting, how much climbing, what tires, etc?

    As you've pointed out the speeds on a fatbike in winter can vary greatly. Generally I would say my fatbike is 2 gears lower than my regular bikes, so a 30t chainring instead of a 34t.

    If you're trying to cover a reasonable amount of distance I would gear it slightly higher. If you're strictly riding singletrack you can go a bit lower. If I were to set mine up SS I'd probably go for 30:22 or 30:23 ish.

    I also wouldn't compromise my gear ratio to achieve a specific chainstay length on a fatbike.
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  9. #9
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    I single speeded last winter with 28:18 and 30:20, which is the same as I use in the summer. This is pretty soft gearing compared to what others might use, but it allowed me to stay on the bike peddling almost as much as a geared bike.

    My experience is that winter is not all that much different as summer in terms of effort and gearing. Instead of standing and mashing up a steep climb in the summer, you are standing and mashing up a low angle snow trail. (Or sometimes standing and mashing on a flat trail that is soft ).

    This winter I'm going back to gears to mix it up. I had a blast the other day tractoring up a 1000' soft conditions climb in 26:42. This was on the absolute edge of what was rideable and I would have been walking my singlespeed the entire way. Walking probably would have been just as fast, but it was a nice change to keep the feet out of the snow.

  10. #10
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    Sweet THREAD!,

    The MUK is DOPE and was my first true Fatty that really opened up the multi faceted aspects of the bike life. Fat, + size, touring - TRAIL SLEEPER - Super fun and capable. (I ended up getting A Vassago a few seasons later, but my Lady rallies the Muk like a champ in the current scene.)

    I was tired of dealing with the caboose getting torn up by all the salt used on roads/ bike paths in the peoples republic of Utah and went SS on the Fatty a few seasons ago. My commute is uphill on the way in, an dh on the way home.... I started with a pretty tall gearing at 32:17 - but ended up hating life on the way in, to the post office, anywhere in town really, and ended up with a 32:23 - not only are palindromes cool, that odd cog gives one more tooth of engagement, or so I'm told. I really just like to bike, it's not CRAZY fast, but effectively managed and I feel like a gawsh darn champ when I hop on something with gears. Some day, when I can play the lotto again (Not allowed in the Promised Land) I would LOVE an IGH - but until then I'll keep on SSpinning with a simple setup.

    Best of luck with finding what works in your world and enjoy that simple life.

    Cheers

  11. #11
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    Thanks everyone.
    I found a place that sells 25tooth cigs and then I can get a 24 tooth cinch chainring. So with my 30:25 or 24:25 I should be covered for most winter trail riding in snow. Bring it!

  12. #12
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    Why not use a cheaper set of chain and cassette and a cheaper crank gear. I know the 11 gears can get very expensive. But why not just go get a 8spd cassette, with some cheap thumb old shifter and a cheap crank gear. Even used parts are cheap!

    NEW $12usd new 7-8spd cassette - https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-HG...Speed-Cassette

    NEW $7usd chain - https://www.jensonusa.com/KMC-Z50-Chain

    NEW $10 shifters - https://www.jensonusa.com/SRAM-30-Co...-Grip-Shifters

    Do you want to swap out the bb, crank arms and pedals too or just the 1x crank gear?
    With your crank being 1x, perhaps there is no 6/7/8 spd option, perhaps a gear off a regular 3x crank wont bolt on. The new age components are like that.

  13. #13
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    I went 30/24 for my first iteration. Worked good on the few rides that I did in fresh snow. I was spun out on packed snow, but it is a blast! I also have a 24 tooth front chainring that I can gear down to, but not switching until we get more snow or bigger hills.

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