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  1. #1801
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    RSD Bikes "The Mayor"

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  2. #1802
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcracer2 View Post
    I would say just get a set of 4.0, 4.4 or 4.8 Jumbo Jim tires and set them up tubeless. If your rims aren't tubeless compatible then upgrade the rim or wheelset (Carbon if you can).
    These tires roll so fast you will be very hard pressed to benefit from another size for what you are doing. These are even good for a lot of snow conditions when properly aired. The only way to account for all winter conditions is to have multiple tire sets; I have 2 sets for each fat bike.

    1 set for deep/icy and 1 set for light/grippy snow
    I have tuebelss 26 wheels (so yes, this is a 1st World problem). I wanted to go to 27.5" wheels to get more rollover and use the growing tire selection in 27.5. You have a good point with the jumbo jims, they seem popular for the non-snow. But from what I read they are not great in winter (un-ungroomed snow). I guess I would rather have a tire that is good in winter, and just OK in summer.

    I will scratch the 29+ wheelset idea. Too much cost and compromise. Off-road it won't be as good a s real fat and on normal paths that added rolling resistance of fat tire doesn't bother me enough (just go slower). Maybe I will get a dedicated 29+ bike at some point. I secretly fancy the Jones bike.

    to re-phrase my questions:
    Did anyone install 27.5x4.5 tires and think the geometry got screwed up compared to the 26x4.8"? I realize BB and standover will be a tiny bit higher.

    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford View Post
    I have a V3 XL Mayor, I found the L Revelate Ranger fit my frame almost perfectly. Measure your inner triangle and give their site a look, it might work out.


    https://www.revelatedesigns.com/inde.../fullframebags

    Sent from #THELEGENDMTB using Tapatalk on an iPhone
    Thanks. I had looked at Relevate already when I ordered my old Rogue Panda custom bags. The problem with Relevate is the cost is almost the same as with Rogue Panda. I measured my frame and the L-bag would be a bit too large, the M would leave gaps (and waste space). i think they have a 15% sale, but that would make them just a tiny bit cheaper than the custom bag. I guess at that price, i pay the $20 extra and get a perfectly fitting bag. it isn't just for the perfect look, I'm also pressed for space. But thanks anyway.
    Mayor v4
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  3. #1803
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    I think I'll just break out the sewing mosheen and make my own bike bags as opposed to paying the astronomical prices these companies are charging. Talk 'bout breakin it off in some fatbikers ass! Holy moly, I can buy plenty of cordura and other fabrics on the budget of one "boutique bag" and make many utilitarian bags.

    My friend's wife made my pogies a couple years ago. Not too many of y'all have the awesome bicycle print fleece lining like I do, cause Myrna is a creative sort!

    HerrKaLeun, 27.5 vs. 26 will make no change in geo unless you do a mullet. BB height might increase slightly but that is a bonus for a rock crawler...
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  4. #1804
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    Can we talk for just a moment about how annoying the v3 rear brake mount is? That rear bolt hole... I use a long reach hex bit, attached to a long wrench extension, and it still conflicts with the seat stay, resulting in a slightly imperfect angle. I bought special tools, just for it. Trail side repair... 1/4 turn at a time?!?

    Great bike though.

  5. #1805
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    Quote Originally Posted by AllMountin' View Post
    Can we talk for just a moment about how annoying the v3 rear brake mount is? That rear bolt hole... I use a long reach hex bit, attached to a long wrench extension, and it still conflicts with the seat stay, resulting in a slightly imperfect angle. I bought special tools, just for it. Trail side repair... 1/4 turn at a time?!?

    Great bike though.
    Uhh, wut? I just use a regular hex wrench. You can only do 1/4 turn at a time, but patience and it works just fine. Having the ball-joint at the end of the hex wrench helps (and allows you to just spin it till you get "close"), but it's not necessary. If your kit doesn't include free L-shaped hex wrenches, this may be a good time to go out and buy some. There are plenty of other places on the bike where there's limited space and good ole "standard" hex wrenches are my go-to. As nice as the pedros and park wrenches are to hold, they ain't going to fit in a lot of places on the bike and the ball-ends will slip at any significant angle, rendering them only useful for getting "close", till you break out the regular hex wrench.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  6. #1806
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    Quote Originally Posted by HerrKaLeun View Post
    I have tuebelss 26 wheels (so yes, this is a 1st World problem). I wanted to go to 27.5" wheels to get more rollover and use the growing tire selection in 27.5. You have a good point with the jumbo jims, they seem popular for the non-snow. But from what I read they are not great in winter (un-ungroomed snow). I guess I would rather have a tire that is good in winter, and just OK in summer.

    I will scratch the 29+ wheelset idea. Too much cost and compromise. Off-road it won't be as good a s real fat and on normal paths that added rolling resistance of fat tire doesn't bother me enough (just go slower). Maybe I will get a dedicated 29+ bike at some point. I secretly fancy the Jones bike.

    to re-phrase my questions:
    Did anyone install 27.5x4.5 tires and think the geometry got screwed up compared to the 26x4.8"? I realize BB and standover will be a tiny bit higher.
    The whole idea of 27.5 on a fat bike isn't for better rollover but for lower weight. The 27.5 tires are about the same diameter on average as their 26 counterparts. They are designed for a lower sidewall. Here is some data from 45north that backs this up.
    https://45nrth.com/files/media/16437...o_Chart_VF.pdf

  7. #1807
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    Part of the fun for me is that the bolts picked up enough corrosion that they had significant resistance all the way in/out. I ran some bolts back and forth over and over with the driver to free it up, plus some anti seize. The socket style hex tools interfere with the stay, and wheel on access is especially tight.

  8. #1808
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    Quote Originally Posted by AllMountin' View Post
    Can we talk for just a moment about how annoying the v3 rear brake mount is? That rear bolt hole... I use a long reach hex bit, attached to a long wrench extension, and it still conflicts with the seat stay, resulting in a slightly imperfect angle. I bought special tools, just for it. Trail side repair... 1/4 turn at a time?!?

    Great bike though.
    Ball end hex wrench to get it home, standard hex to torque works just fine on my V3. Drama averted in the nick of time!
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  9. #1809
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    Quote Originally Posted by reckhard View Post
    The whole idea of 27.5 on a fat bike isn't for better rollover but for lower weight. The 27.5 tires are about the same diameter on average as their 26 counterparts. They are designed for a lower sidewall. Here is some data from 45north that backs this up.
    https://45nrth.com/files/media/16437...o_Chart_VF.pdf
    Just to clarify, my plan is to use 27.5x4.5, not 4.0.
    The 4.5 will be larger than 26x4.8. the PDF you shared doesn't seem to have tires of the "fullsize", only 27.4x4.0.
    Mayor v4
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  10. #1810
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    Anyone tried 27.5+ tires (3.0) for a hardtail/trailbike ? I've seen 29+ Mayor but no 27.5+.. Would the bottom bracket be too low ?

  11. #1811
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    Quote Originally Posted by QuebecDirt View Post
    Anyone tried 27.5+ tires (3.0) for a hardtail/trailbike ? I've seen 29+ Mayor but no 27.5+.. Would the bottom bracket be too low ?
    Very likely so. If I do plus with my Mayor, I would go 29 and only with 3.0 or 3.25's.
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  12. #1812
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    Chainstay Length

    So I set up my Mayor v4 with the sliding dropout to be the all the way forward (shorter chainstay) and still have plenty of tire clearance on my 26x4.8 tires.

    I left the chain a bit longer to be able to adjust chainstay length. But now want to cut it to the correct length. I wonder if there is any reason to set the chainstay longer than necessary for tire clearance? Seems that people always like shorter chainstays.

    I realize i could just try out riding with different lengths, but fear there will be more confirmation bias than actual difference if I change chainstay by 5mm at a time and observe riding.

    I'm pretty sure by the time i upgrade to larger 27.5x4.5 I will need a new chain anyway.

    So does everyone just ride with chainstays as short as possible for tire clearance? Or am I doing myself a disservice by not using longer chainstay setting (i.e. more stable and smoother ride)?

    BTW, is there a manual on how to set the dropouts? I kind of think I can see how to use them, but wonder if there is an official way to ensure both dropouts are set the same way and what torque?
    Mayor v4
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  13. #1813
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    I think its all personal preference. I like short for summer and longer in the winter. It seems to help distribute weight better over the snow.

  14. #1814
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    Quote Originally Posted by HerrKaLeun View Post
    So I set up my Mayor v4 with the sliding dropout to be the all the way forward (shorter chainstay) and still have plenty of tire clearance on my 26x4.8 tires.

    I left the chain a bit longer to be able to adjust chainstay length. But now want to cut it to the correct length. I wonder if there is any reason to set the chainstay longer than necessary for tire clearance? Seems that people always like shorter chainstays.

    I realize i could just try out riding with different lengths, but fear there will be more confirmation bias than actual difference if I change chainstay by 5mm at a time and observe riding.

    I'm pretty sure by the time i upgrade to larger 27.5x4.5 I will need a new chain anyway.

    So does everyone just ride with chainstays as short as possible for tire clearance? Or am I doing myself a disservice by not using longer chainstay setting (i.e. more stable and smoother ride)?

    BTW, is there a manual on how to set the dropouts? I kind of think I can see how to use them, but wonder if there is an official way to ensure both dropouts are set the same way and what torque?
    A good approach is to experiment with the slider setup. Give each setting a try for a reasonable ride. Getting a feel for what that position does to the handling and feel will open up more experience and you will find what works for your comfort and riding style.

    Go to the website as I believe there is a torque spec on each frame and its dropout. The dropouts should be set equally so the wheel is straight and true with the bike.

    Long setting will load the front wheel more and short setting will lighten the front. If ya like floating the front go to the middle or toward the front with the slider. Autosmith said it right, it is personal and subjective as tire pressure so, yeah, experiment and enjoy the time tinkering and trying it.

    Torques Specs for 4 Drop-Out Bolts: 17N/m to 20N/m From RSD Mayor V4 Spec & Geometry page.
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  15. #1815
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    Quote Originally Posted by HerrKaLeun View Post
    So I set up my Mayor v4 with the sliding dropout to be the all the way forward (shorter chainstay) and still have plenty of tire clearance on my 26x4.8 tires.

    I left the chain a bit longer to be able to adjust chainstay length. But now want to cut it to the correct length. I wonder if there is any reason to set the chainstay longer than necessary for tire clearance? Seems that people always like shorter chainstays.

    I realize i could just try out riding with different lengths, but fear there will be more confirmation bias than actual difference if I change chainstay by 5mm at a time and observe riding.

    I'm pretty sure by the time i upgrade to larger 27.5x4.5 I will need a new chain anyway.

    So does everyone just ride with chainstays as short as possible for tire clearance? Or am I doing myself a disservice by not using longer chainstay setting (i.e. more stable and smoother ride)?

    BTW, is there a manual on how to set the dropouts? I kind of think I can see how to use them, but wonder if there is an official way to ensure both dropouts are set the same way and what torque?
    I slide back and forth depending on conditions more than tires.
    Tight twisty single track, i slam the axel all the way forward. More playful and responsive.
    Riding loose conditions, like ungroomed snow or sand, i pull the axel as far back as i can for a more stable ride. Same thing if you're bikebacking and have the bike weighted down.
    Go for a ride in the sand and test it out, 10 to 15mm can make a huge difference just like a couple psi does in your tires.
    Cheers!

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  16. #1816
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    RSD Bikes "The Mayor"

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    Last edited by Guy.Ford; 07-07-2020 at 03:23 PM.
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  17. #1817
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    Guy,

    Commandant Polis hasn't lowered the boom on us yet.

    The Mayor, MiddleChild are seeing loads of trail time as of late.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  18. #1818
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    So i tested riding with the wheel up front (450mm chansitay) and all the way back (465mm). for my riding, it doesn't really make a difference. i swear, someone could break in my garage and switch it and i wouldn't notice.

    The only real difference was that shifting was smoother when back, since I had left my chain longer in anticipation of changing the chainstay length. now I moved the sliders all the way forward and shortened the chain tot he correct length.
    Mayor v4
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  19. #1819
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    Did you play and get rowdy? Wheelie and float the front wheel over obstacles? Head out on some trails with good, high quality curves and great features to get into the handling and see if it becomes apparent that CS does make handling changes
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  20. #1820
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    Quote Originally Posted by BansheeRune View Post
    Very likely so. If I do plus with my Mayor, I would go 29 and only with 3.0 or 3.25's.
    Should be OK since it only has 50mm BB drop.

  21. #1821
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcracer2 View Post
    Should be OK since it only has 50mm BB drop.
    29 would be a good choice however, 27.5 might not give the desired result due to ground clearance.
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    Hey All, has anyone installed a works components 1.0 or 1.5 degree angleset to a Mayor v3? I am keeping mine full rigid, but thinking a lil slacker head angle would be nice for steeper and to carry a bit more stability through DH rock gardens. It's rather fun when i go full bucking bronco, but for less than $100 USD I'm thinking it's worth a go. Any thoughts?

  23. #1823
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blk06CompIRL View Post
    Hey All, has anyone installed a works components 1.0 or 1.5 degree angleset to a Mayor v3? I am keeping mine full rigid, but thinking a lil slacker head angle would be nice for steeper and to carry a bit more stability through DH rock gardens. It's rather fun when i go full bucking bronco, but for less than $100 USD I'm thinking it's worth a go. Any thoughts?
    Give it a go. A 1į-1.5į change will be pronounced.
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  24. #1824
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blk06CompIRL View Post
    Hey All, has anyone installed a works components 1.0 or 1.5 degree angleset to a Mayor v3? I am keeping mine full rigid, but thinking a lil slacker head angle would be nice for steeper and to carry a bit more stability through DH rock gardens. It's rather fun when i go full bucking bronco, but for less than $100 USD I'm thinking it's worth a go. Any thoughts?
    I'll echo Banshee and say give it a go. I got one for my Pugsley, I was limited to 1* only, but that in addition to a taller fork (470mm vs the 447mm stocker) really changed the way the bike felt for the better.
    Any and all kinds of bikes.

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    Cool, thanks. Now the question is do i go 1 or 1.5? Leaning towards the 1.5 as i wont be over forking it and i feel more is better lol

  26. #1826
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blk06CompIRL View Post
    Cool, thanks. Now the question is do i go 1 or 1.5? Leaning towards the 1.5 as i wont be over forking it and i feel more is better lol
    If I were doing the deed, I would go 1.5į. Another method is with fork rake.
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  27. #1827
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    Plus Mullet Mayor, prepping for backpacking. Axiom rack fits like a glove.

  28. #1828
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    Allmountain, how does that ride? Sounds interesting!
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  29. #1829
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    I like it a lot. This configuration feels natural. Just wants to roll. Easy to elevate the front end. Pretty plush for rigid. I've been having a time on it.

    Just built up a steel 29er though, so I'll prolly set this one up with the rack and bags for good, and use it for longer rides and backpacking. I've now got three wheelsets for this bike. Full fat, studs, and plus mullet. Between my dj, this and the new build, I think my stable is pretty diverse. Happy.

  30. #1830
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    Quote Originally Posted by AllMountin' View Post
    I like it a lot. This configuration feels natural. Just wants to roll. Easy to elevate the front end. Pretty plush for rigid. I've been having a time on it.

    Just built up a steel 29er though, so I'll prolly set this one up with the rack and bags for good, and use it for longer rides and backpacking. I've now got three wheelsets for this bike. Full fat, studs, and plus mullet. Between my dj, this and the new build, I think my stable is pretty diverse. Happy.
    Good stuff! It really is a good time experimenting with configurations.
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  31. #1831
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    29er plus vs 26x4

    Is the 29er plus worth the price vs 26x4 for bike packing and long rides.

  32. #1832
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rondinko View Post
    Is the 29er plus worth the price vs 26x4 for bike packing and long rides.
    In my experience, 29x3 is better in every situation compared to 26x4, other than deep snow.
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  33. #1833
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    Real quick question guys,

    Which brake adapter to use post mount to post mount for a RSD Mayor V3 frame with 180mm rotor and a quad piston Shimano XT caliper... possibly in orange?

  34. #1834
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    I didn't use adaptors on the V3 since I had 160mm rotors on the shelf. 4 pot Hopes are like installing F 350 Superduty brakes on a Toyota SR5...
    Options for orange adaptors, rattle can or loco anodizer/powdercoater.

    On the topic of the Mayor and plus... Since I bought a fatbike and three plussers and a midfat, no need to downsize the fatass mayor.
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  35. #1835
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    Quote Originally Posted by BansheeRune View Post
    I didn't use adaptors on the V3 since I had 160mm rotors on the shelf. 4 pot Hopes are like installing F 350 Superduty brakes on a Toyota SR5...
    Options for orange adaptors, rattle can or loco anodizer/powdercoater.

    On the topic of the Mayor and plus... Since I bought a fatbike and three plussers and a midfat, no need to downsize the fatass mayor.
    I have 4 pot XT's, also find Crayola markers anodize wonderfully once paint is stripped, painting or powdercoating aluminum requires an etching primer... hoping to find something off the shelf.

    Yeah, it's a fat bike. No need for ice tech since it operates at slow speeds during cooler months one would assume. However, like many my DT/Swiss BR2250's and Grip Studded Snowhsoe 2XL's get swapped out for DT/Swiss hubs laced to WTB 29er hoops with either Maxxis made Bontrager XR2's or XR4's for bikepacking or trail riding.

    Loaded up for bikepacking it can weigh with winter gear and 2XL's about 53 lbs. A bit less for fair weather. I also commute and haul a BOB or DIY trailer with huge plastic bin. I don't DH, Enduro, or Freeride the thing and do love rocky tech, so 203's are out and 180's are quite powerful.

    Off the shelf 160's in the rear are fine for general fat biking. However given my mass, the mass of the loaded bike, bikepacking or trail riding, 180's front and rear are actually the sensible way to go given this particular RSD Mayor's applications. You see, 70% of braking is indeed in the front, generally to slow before a sharp turn. The larger rotor up front offers more leverage. The 4 pot caliper offers better modulation as it is less grabby than a shimano 2 pot. It's XT, not a heavy Saint or Zee caliper. The other reason to run a larger rotor is for heat dissipation. Reducing the temp by 30į produces a 10% increase in power.

    Now, realize that though the rear brake is not responsible for rapid deceleration as the front is, but the tendency is to drag the rear more often to scrub speed to harmonize with the flow... that means that even if the use is more subtle, it's more sustained as is the heat generated and less consistent the braking over the course of the ride. Now that you understand the relevance and context of the question perhaps you could reserve the dismissal for someone to actually answer what post mount adapter would work with a 180mm rotor for 4 pot XT calipers on a Mayor V3, (it is my SUV)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RSD Bikes "The Mayor"-53536643_398871700673743_201579148961906688_o-2-.jpg  

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    RSD Bikes "The Mayor"-20200611_181330.jpg  


  36. #1836
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    With the placement of the brake mount in the triangle, I never tried larger rotors since it appeared to be very tight and constrained. With that said, yus, I dismissed 180 and larger for ease of accesss and maintenance. With my V4, the rear brake position will be doable.

    On the adapter, if you hit up the LBS, perhaps they have various post to post adapters available. Sometimes a takeoff makes it to the bin and they would be kind enough to give it to ya.

    RSD Bikes "The Mayor"-hope-disc-adapter.jpg
    Hope disc adapter chart. Click image for larger view.

    My fatbike is a rock crawler at all times. I ride deer trails and other unimproved terrain with a Mayor V3 and V4.
    Trailers without brakes? Hope V Twin makes that a thing of the past. That trailer load on a descent can be cantankerous without trailer brakes. Food for thought.
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  37. #1837
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    I went with 2 pot hopes, but because hope brakes in general are down on power compared to others due to their lesser hydraulic mechanical advantage, I over-rotored it, with 200 on the front and 180 on the rear. I do a lot of steep road hill climbs for training and they are definitely helpful there.

    It's just a 20mm IS adapter, I don't think it matters on if it's F or R. Sometimes you run into issues with certain brakes hitting the adapter, more common with 4-pots. I can post a picture later.
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  38. #1838
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    Quote Originally Posted by BansheeRune View Post
    With the placement of the brake mount in the triangle, I never tried larger rotors since it appeared to be very tight and constrained. With that said, yus, I dismissed 180 and larger for ease of accesss and maintenance. With my V4, the rear brake position will be doable.

    On the adapter, if you hit up the LBS, perhaps they have various post to post adapters available. Sometimes a takeoff makes it to the bin and they would be kind enough to give it to ya.


    Hope disc adapter chart. Click image for larger view.


    My fatbike is a rock crawler at all times. I ride deer trails and other unimproved terrain with a Mayor V3 and V4.
    Trailers without brakes? Hope V Twin makes that a thing of the past. That trailer load on a descent can be cantankerous without trailer brakes. Food for thought.


    Thanks. Yeah, I get that. Very envious of the V4!

  39. #1839
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    I went with 2 pot hopes, but because hope brakes in general are down on power compared to others due to their lesser hydraulic mechanical advantage, I over-rotored it, with 200 on the front and 180 on the rear. I do a lot of steep road hill climbs for training and they are definitely helpful there.

    It's just a 20mm IS adapter, I don't think it matters on if it's F or R. Sometimes you run into issues with certain brakes hitting the adapter, more common with 4-pots. I can post a picture later.
    Oddly the shop I wrenched for doesn't stock brake adapters, it's infuriating. Also, Amazon is often cheaper than whole sale distributors!!!

    I couldn't just pull one off a wall and compare. I purchased one and it didn't appear like it would accommodate the 4 pot caliper. It will and looks like it will fit both the rear frame mount and the Wren fork! Thanks for the help guys!

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YC2QH28/

  40. #1840
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    Quote Originally Posted by AllMountin' View Post
    Can we talk for just a moment about how annoying the v3 rear brake mount is? That rear bolt hole... I use a long reach hex bit, attached to a long wrench extension, and it still conflicts with the seat stay, resulting in a slightly imperfect angle. I bought special tools, just for it. Trail side repair... 1/4 turn at a time?!?

    Great bike though.

    The best tool for accessing the rear brake on an RSD Mayor V3 is a ratchet with thumb wheel and a 6" long 5mm hex bit.

    For trail side repair, grind down an old ball end 5mm L bend so the short side is about 8mm long. That tucks up under the stay to break it free and the ball end gets you the rest of the way. It's cheap, light, and compact for travel.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RSD Bikes "The Mayor"-20200723_173725.jpg  

    RSD Bikes "The Mayor"-20200723_174032.jpg  


  41. #1841
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    Quote Originally Posted by BansheeRune View Post
    With the placement of the brake mount in the triangle, I never tried larger rotors since it appeared to be very tight and constrained. With that said, yus, I dismissed 180 and larger for ease of accesss and maintenance. With my V4, the rear brake position will be doable.

    On the adapter, if you hit up the LBS, perhaps they have various post to post adapters available. Sometimes a takeoff makes it to the bin and they would be kind enough to give it to ya.


    Hope disc adapter chart. Click image for larger view.

    My fatbike is a rock crawler at all times. I ride deer trails and other unimproved terrain with a Mayor V3 and V4.
    Trailers without brakes? Hope V Twin makes that a thing of the past. That trailer load on a descent can be cantankerous without trailer brakes. Food for thought.

    I got 2 of these:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YC2QH28

    They're cheap & werx gud. Also, colors!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RSD Bikes "The Mayor"-61ygy6j4lsl._ac_sl1484_.jpg  


  42. #1842
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    What the hell are you doing to a Mayor that needs rear caliper tweaking on the trail?? Do the install and adjustment properly and you can leave it alone for ages.

    KB1JKI, the adapters look rather nice. Thanks for sharing that.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  43. #1843
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    I'm thinking of buying a Mastadon to replace my CF fork on the v4.
    Alex equips them with the 100mm EXT version, which seems to raise the front a bit (even accounting for sag). So my gut tells me to get the 100mm EXT.

    But does anyone recommend installing the 120mm (extendable to 140mm)? I know it would make STA and HTA slacker, and the standover and BB would be higher. Obviously now would be the time to decide either way.

    and for the people that started with a CF fork, and then went Mastodon: do you end up swapping forks seasonally, or do you just end up suing the Mastodon all year?

    (I read the entire thread a long time ago, but didn't want to re-reread the entire thread in case the answer is here already)
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    duplicate post
    Get out of the gutter and onto the mountain top.

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    Quote Originally Posted by HerrKaLeu View Post
    I'm thinking of buying a Mastadon to replace my CF fork on the v4.
    Alex equips them with the 100mm EXT version, which seems to raise the front a bit (even accounting for sag). So my gut tells me to get the 100mm EXT.

    But does anyone recommend installing the 120mm (extendable to 140mm)? I know it would make STA and HTA slacker, and the standover and BB would be higher. Obviously now would be the time to decide either way.

    and for the people that started with a CF fork, and then went Mastodon: do you end up swapping forks seasonally, or do you just end up suing the Mastodon all year?)
    I got a 120mm non-ext mastodon a couple months ago for my V4. Plan to switch back to the CF when the dirt and chunk are covered. Really just got the sus fork for summer/fall because big hits and rock gardens were too much with the CF. Otherwise, I liked the CF better for pretty much everything else.

    For me, I saw no advantage to the ext as I donít plan to ever run 140mm travel with a 27.5x4.5. If/when I do run some 27.5x4.5 I will just adjust the internals to prevent the tire from hitting the crown. Set up standard the fork for 140mm, adjust internals and basically the same as a 120mm ext. Same ride height, but probably get a a little more travel like 125-130 or so with the standard fork.

    However, I think the ext at 120mm would be too much and jack up some of the handling. A to C is like 551mm for the ext at 120mm travel. At 20% sag that would be 527mm slackening the seat tube angle and raising the BB quite a lot vs the spec 490mm a to c with the CF.

    Not sure why they would run the 100mm ext as the geo chart is set at a 490 fork length which is what the 100mm standard fork would be with 20% sag. The ext would be 510mm with 20% sag. I would much rather run the 120mm mastodon as I get 20mm more travel and the ride height ends up being lower than the 100mm ext. I run more like 25% sag so ride height ends up being only about 10mm more than the 490mm CF fork.

    Eventually, I would like to get an angle adjust headset. I think slackening out the front end by 1.5* and running the standard fork at 140mm would make for one killer hardcore hardtail. That would preserve things like BB height and seat angle while allowing for 140mm travel and about a 65* HA with sag. Also plan to get a set of 29Ē wheels to run this set up for trail riding and park, although will still run fat as well for trails.

    Edit: I should mention that I ordered a V5 frame which I feel will handle a slacker HA with an angle adjust head set better given the V5 has longer reach numbers. This should help to weight the front end more.
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  46. #1846
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    Quote Originally Posted by singletrackmack View Post
    I got a 120mm non-ext mastodon a couple months ago for my V4. Plan to switch back to the CF when the dirt and chunk are covered. Really just got the sus fork for summer/fall because big hits and rock gardens were too much with the CF. Otherwise, I liked the CF better for pretty much everything else.

    For me, I saw no advantage to the ext as I donít plan to ever run 140mm travel with a 27.5x4.5. If/when I do run some 27.5x4.5 I will just adjust the internals to prevent the tire from hitting the crown. Set up standard the fork for 140mm, adjust internals and basically the same as a 120mm ext. Same ride height, but probably get a a little more travel like 125-130 or so with the standard fork.

    However, I think the ext at 120mm would be too much and jack up some of the handling. A to C is like 551mm for the ext at 120mm travel. At 20% sag that would be 527mm slackening the seat tube angle and raising the BB quite a lot vs the spec 490mm a to c with the CF.

    Not sure why they would run the 100mm ext as the geo chart is set at a 490 fork length which is what the 100mm standard fork would be with 20% sag. The ext would be 510mm with 20% sag. I would much rather run the 120mm mastodon as I get 20mm more travel and the ride height ends up being lower than the 100mm ext. I run more like 25% sag so ride height ends up being only about 10mm more than the 490mm CF fork.

    Eventually, I would like to get an angle adjust headset. I think slackening out the front end by 1.5* and running the standard fork at 140mm would make for one killer hardcore hardtail. That would preserve things like BB height and seat angle while allowing for 140mm travel and about a 65* HA with sag. Also plan to get a set of 29Ē wheels to run this set up for trail riding and park, although will still run fat as well for trails.

    Edit: I should mention that I ordered a V5 frame which I feel will handle a slacker HA with an angle adjust head set better given the V5 has longer reach numbers. This should help to weight the front end more.
    Why exactly do you like the CF better for outside single trail? Is the Mastadon too heavy or flexy? I switched from a fatbike with steelfork to the Mayor, and the CF fork (and geo) were significantly better. But I imagine suspension can be handy outside single track (frozen tracks etc.).

    Thanks. I read in the Mastadon thread about the conversion of STD to take larger tires at the expense of travel. Honestly, I'm still confused and need to re-read. Sounds like they could just have made one model and let users adjust. I have 26x4.8 tires and may have future 27.5x4.5.

    So does your 120mm STD now have a higher A-C than the CF fork?

    Maybe my math is wrong, but the 100mm EXT is listed with AC of 530mm. If I subtract 25mm (25% sag of 100mm) I have an effective AC of 505mm, which is 15mm more than the CF fork (490mm). But RSD also lists 490mm for the 100mm travel. Where am I wrong?
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  47. #1847
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    I wish I'd known about the Mayor sooner, it looks like a great bike.

  48. #1848
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    Quote Originally Posted by HerrKaLeu View Post
    Why exactly do you like the CF better for outside single trail? Is the Mastadon too heavy or flexy? I switched from a fatbike with steelfork to the Mayor, and the CF fork (and geo) were significantly better. But I imagine suspension can be handy outside single track (frozen tracks etc.).
    I hate fork dive and would prefer rigid always. Cornering is unbelievably better with a fork that doesnít dive and tracks true. I donít want suspension unless it is absolutely needed, but in rock gardens and on big hits rigid is awful and on drops and jumps itís not safe. There are a lot of rock gardens, big hits, drops and jumps on my local trails.


    Quote Originally Posted by HerrKaLeu View Post
    Thanks. I read in the Mastadon thread about the conversion of STD to take larger tires at the expense of travel. Honestly, I'm still confused and need to re-read. Sounds like they could just have made one model and let users adjust.
    Lawyers. Manitou doesnít want to get sued, so there can only be one maximum tire size a fork can run. If there is any possibility that a certain tire size could hit the crown in any configuration, then that tire size canít be recommended for the fork because people will run the wrong size tire in the wrong configuration and go flying over the handlebars because people are stupid. They will then sue manitou for making an unsafe product.

    Quote Originally Posted by HerrKaLeu View Post
    So does your 120mm STD now have a higher A-C than the CF fork?
    Yes, but by only about 11mm with 25% sag. Mastodon std 120mm has a 531mm a to c and the CF is 490mm
    120 x 25% = 30
    531 - 30 = 501

    Quote Originally Posted by HerrKaLeu View Post
    Maybe my math is wrong, but the 100mm EXT is listed with AC of 530mm. If I subtract 25mm (25% sag of 100mm) I have an effective AC of 505mm, which is 15mm more than the CF fork (490mm). But RSD also lists 490mm for the 100mm travel. Where am I wrong?
    490mm a to c is based off a standard 100mm fat bike fork, not just Manitou, but other forks as well. Even though you can get the mayor with the ext, that is not a common fork and is specifically made to run 27.5x4.5. Most people are not going to run the largest possible 27.5Ē tire and not everyone wants a Manitou. There are other popular fat bike forks that buyers may want to run including the more popular std mastodon so it makes sense to design the bike around a standard 100mm fork with sag as that is the most popular size fat bike fork.
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  49. #1849
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    Quote Originally Posted by singletrackmack View Post
    I hate fork dive and would prefer rigid always. Cornering is unbelievably better with a fork that doesnít dive and tracks true. I donít want suspension unless it is absolutely needed, but in rock gardens and on big hits rigid is awful and on drops and jumps itís not safe. There are a lot of rock gardens, big hits, drops and jumps on my local trails.




    Lawyers. Manitou doesnít want to get sued, so there can only be one maximum tire size a fork can run. If there is any possibility that a certain tire size could hit the crown in any configuration, then that tire size canít be recommended for the fork because people will run the wrong size tire in the wrong configuration and go flying over the handlebars because people are stupid. They will then sue manitou for making an unsafe product.



    Yes, but by only about 11mm with 25% sag. Mastodon std 120mm has a 531mm a to c and the CF is 490mm
    120 x 25% = 30
    531 - 30 = 501



    490mm a to c is based off a standard 100mm fat bike fork, not just Manitou, but other forks as well. Even though you can get the mayor with the ext, that is not a common fork and is specifically made to run 27.5x4.5. Most people are not going to run the largest possible 27.5Ē tire and not everyone wants a Manitou. There are other popular fat bike forks that buyers may want to run including the more popular std mastodon so it makes sense to design the bike around a standard 100mm fork with sag as that is the most popular size fat bike fork.
    Thanks for clarifying. I'm also wondering if when I consider getting a 29+ wheelset along with the Mastodon, if it wouldn't make more sense to get a dedicated HT for not much more cost. Like an RSD Seargant that could run 27.5x4 or 29x3. Basically a mini-fat bike. N+1 and a bit narrower rear and BB aren't the worst. Once I spend the $ on a Mastadon, I think I'm sunk into the Mayor for trails. On the other hand, buying a Mastadon that could be a 140mm version in the future, i could move that over to an HT.

    Edit: I understand the better riding with rigid. Most my riding isn't technical and the perfect Mayor design + CF works great. That all is local. I have 2 technical rocky/rooty trails that are an hour driving away that would require suspension. So depending on time/weather this isn't so many miles I ride. I kind of would loath to switch forks (adjust calipers etc.) more than seasonally. Swapping twice a year may be OK since that also services the headset, though.
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  50. #1850
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    My first fat bike - thanks to this thread

    I bought my first fat bike in preparation for a bikepacking trip this year. I decided on "The Mayor".

    Came across this thread when researching and it gave me the insight I needed to pull the trigger. - Jay

    Thank you!


  51. #1851
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    Quick pic of the mayor before dropping into pork shoulder right behind her. Then down to other connecting singletracks all the way to the lake

    This bike is awesome, but got a XXL V5 frame on order with more room for my long wingspan

    RSD Bikes "The Mayor"-6c8f02d3-9ace-45b2-a393-789fa2e9da3d.jpeg
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  52. #1852
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    Quote Originally Posted by singletrackmack View Post
    Quick pic of the mayor before dropping into pork shoulder right behind her. Then down to other connecting singletracks all the way to the lake

    This bike is awesome, but got a XXL V5 frame on order with more room for my long wingspan

    Great looking bike! Regarding the XXL, what is your height and bike measured inseam? I am probably going to put an order in, other than the Kona, it looks like one of the longer frames.

  53. #1853
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    Running 27.5 now on the V3, D5s on 75mm rims, gobs of clearance, could easily be running a "true" 5.0 or even a bit more.

    RSD Bikes "The Mayor"-122014730_10102170758774208_4634722710406275379_n.jpg

    RSD Bikes "The Mayor"-121696513_10102170758729298_6497695534716668037_n.jpg

    RSD Bikes "The Mayor"-121650184_10102170758998758_2968987584423757495_n.jpg
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  54. #1854
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    Quote Originally Posted by kenstl17 View Post
    Great looking bike! Regarding the XXL, what is your height and bike measured inseam? I am probably going to put an order in, other than the Kona, it looks like one of the longer frames.
    Ya, doesnít look too bad with the seat slammed and short stem.
    I am just under 6í4 and ride with the seat around 800mm high (measured from center of BB to top of the saddle) and run a 170mm dropper.

    On a hardtail for pedaling, l now look for an ETT around 680mm or more with a seat angle about 74*. That allows me to run a stem as short as 35mm and still have room to move the seat around on the rails which can change the effective sta by quite a lot. I can run the sta steeper for summer/fall riding with more climbing/descending on steeper terrain, and a slacker sta for winter/spring riding on flatter terrain like snow and low elevations trails.

    Kona is longer, but with a very steep head angle. 2021 Rocky Mtn blizzard and Norco Bigfoot are 2 other fatties to look at. Both have more modern HTAs as well as long ETTs allowing for more STA adjustments.
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  55. #1855
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    Got a couple rides in on my V4 SS Mayor now. These are definitely nice riding fatties and it will be a great addition to my Farley.

    RSD Bikes "The Mayor"-img_5020.jpg
    RSD Bikes "The Mayor"-img_5008.jpg
    "I ride to clear my head, my head is clearer when I'm riding SS. Therefore, I choose to ride SS."~ Fullrange Drew

  56. #1856
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    Lookin good, nitrousjunky!

    Had the first good snowfall a couple weeks ago and it was a blast to break out the Mayor V4 and Sergeant V3 for side by side testing in 12-14" of fresh snow.
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  57. #1857
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    Quote Originally Posted by BansheeRune View Post
    Lookin good, nitrousjunky!

    Had the first good snowfall a couple weeks ago and it was a blast to break out the Mayor V4 and Sergeant V3 for side by side testing in 12-14" of fresh snow.
    How'd the Sarge compare with the VanHelgas?
    "I ride to clear my head, my head is clearer when I'm riding SS. Therefore, I choose to ride SS."~ Fullrange Drew

  58. #1858
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    Quote Originally Posted by nitrousjunky View Post
    How'd the Sarge compare with the VanHelgas?
    The VH's were doing quite well. Where 4.0 will shine is in conditions that do not require all out flotation. The ride was good with control and confidence that was surprising. Kinda handles like a plus with bonus traction and flotation. 4 PSI, 165# rider, away I go!

    I think the Sarge V3 is a good choice for groomed and firm snow conditions. A little powder on top is a garnish that pleases a Sergeant and rider!

    No, not a replacement for the Mayor, a good compliment but not replacement.
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  59. #1859
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    How does the mayor & sergeant compare in general? I can't seem to find much info on the sergeant on RSD's site to compare. Edit: I was trying to look at the steel & it seems like the aluminum is only available now.

  60. #1860
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    RSD Bikes "The Mayor"

    I rode the stock Mayor last winter and had a blast with my first fat bike. Canít wait for this season with some upgrades.

    I have a few more weeks before Iím healed enough to ride outside after breaking my face and a few ribs. I got the Ti bar to match the new Ti plate in my face.

    - Studded Wrathchilds setup tubeless
    - Absolute Black oval chainring
    - 180 mm OneUp dropper
    - OneUp composite pedals swapped to stainless pins
    - WhyCycles Ti bar
    - 40 mm Chromag stem
    - Ergon grips



  61. #1861
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    Quote Originally Posted by Funoutside View Post
    How does the mayor & sergeant compare in general? I can't seem to find much info on the sergeant on RSD's site to compare. Edit: I was trying to look at the steel & it seems like the aluminum is only available now.
    Mayor and Sergeant had been offered in either aluminum or Ti in the past. It looks like Mayor will continue to be offered in Ti but has not been true for the Sergeant.

    Both can run 27.5 however, the Sergeant is limited to 4.0 and is 83mm BB vs. the Mayor @ 4.5/4.8 for tires and 100mm BB. Both have sliding dropout, standard.
    Now for the ride...

    The Mayor outperforms many options on the market in its class. The Sergeant is a plusfat! This hybrid between plus and fat is excellent for many terrain conditions out there. My experience is on a V3 equipped with 70mm rims since I have zero desire to put 4.0's on i45's, it's just too 90's with 2.3's on i19's! Fuggeddabouddit, no go!
    Back on topic... With the Alexrims being very light for a 70mm rim and letting the tire be a tire instead of a razor blade, I find the bike to feel more like riding a plus than a fat in every way. Lighter than a 4.8/4.5 bike within reason on build and budget. Better fuel economy and can still do quite well in fatbike territory. Will it replace the true fatbike? No. But, it can be another option that has much to offer.

    Two Mayors and two Sergeants infest my home.

    Sergeant V1 and V3. Mayor V3 and V4.


    Quote Originally Posted by discreid View Post
    I rode the stock Mayor last winter and had a blast with my first fat bike. Canít wait for this season with some upgrades.

    I have a few more weeks before Iím healed enough to ride outside after breaking my face and a few ribs. I got the Ti bar to match the new Ti plate in my face.

    - Studded Wrathchilds setup tubeless
    - Absolute Black oval chainring
    - 180 mm OneUp dropper
    - OneUp composite pedals swapped to stainless pins
    - WhyCycles Ti bar
    - 40 mm Chromag stem
    - Ergon grips





    I wanna see pix of your face in a cast!!!
    I can vouch for the fractured ribs and at that time had no idea they could be dislocated... Fvcking pain? Well, yaaa.

    Bike goes on shopping spree, comes home with a bag full of Ti parts, owner gets jealous and goes out, gets injured with the intent of getting some Ti of his own. Now to heal up and go enjoy that bitchen blue Mayor! Speedy healing, my friend.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  62. #1862
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    Hope mayor may be for sale soon

    The mayor is still going strong but I just placed an order for a whole lot of chinese carbon fat bike parts. In the meantime fat bike season is in full swing in Edmonton...
    This one will be for sale in December...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RSD Bikes "The Mayor"-20201112_153931.jpg  


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    @Banshee thank you. Now you have me thinking about a Sarge with 27.5x4.0 tires. Could be some good fun on the dunes & beach.

  64. #1864
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    Quote Originally Posted by Funoutside View Post
    @Banshee thank you. Now you have me thinking about a Sarge with 27.5x4.0 tires. Could be some good fun on the dunes & beach.
    No worries! The midfAt setup is a great way to experience the Sergeant. Optionally, 29+ can make it different and either way can be bikepacking ready as well.
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  65. #1865
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    I noticed that. Which do you prefer mtbing with the Sarge or Mayor?

  66. #1866
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    Quote Originally Posted by Funoutside View Post
    I noticed that. Which do you prefer mtbing with the Sarge or Mayor?

    That is quite the tossup! It is more dependent on terrain and such. Sometimes I wanna drive the hardcore rock crawler and sometimes I wanna drive the street legal one, so to speak.

    The location with deep and loose ground, the Mayor is without a doubt more adept. The Sergeant is an excellent choice for a longer ride with mixed terrain and perhaps some tarmac as well. Sarge does get better fuel economy even with spongy tires.

    The last answer is eenie, meanie, miney, moe mostly!

    Frankly, I love em both!
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  67. #1867
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    Is the fuel economy better due to weight or because of another reason?

  68. #1868
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    Quote Originally Posted by Funoutside View Post
    Is the fuel economy better due to weight or because of another reason?
    I would say they are fairly close in terms of weight. Sarge is a little better in terms of lower rolling resistance and taller gearing.
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  69. #1869
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    Still loving my mayor after a year of riding. it's a trail bike that happens to be fat.


  70. #1870
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    Quote Originally Posted by bergsnj View Post
    Still loving my mayor after a year of riding. it's a trail bike that happens to be fat.

    The Mayor is one of the finest fatbikes out there! The ride experience and enjoyment never gets old. Interestingly, I have never had a desire to convert my Mayor to a plus. The fat is too enjoyable. Sure, I have a few pair of tires for different terrain and snow vs. dirt but all are 4.8.
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  71. #1871
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    N=1?

    Considering a V5 Mayor preorder as N=1.

    Primary application is easy flat stuff, some trails, and year-round kid hauling. We don't get a ton of snow here (SW Ontario) but would rather have the option to go fat as needed, rather than be stuck inside on the fun snowy days.

    I'm a "steel is real" type so I first thought about the Surly Wednesday but I have a hard time paying +$350 for cool purple steel but an otherwise inferior spec to the Mayor. It does have mega brazeons and narrower Q factor though which is nice.

    My hesitation with the Mayor is that it could be too much of a lumbering, ponderous beast. The wide Q factor throws me off too. And the whole alu vs steel bit.

    I want to emphasize I'm no MTBer so I don't especially need max shreddiness or anything - just a solid value bike that's fun to ride all year and stable enough to haul kids. Not interested in upgrading - it's gotta be the right spec out of the box.

    Without being able to ride one - is the Mayor what I'm looking for, or should I be looking elsewhere?

  72. #1872
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    Quote Originally Posted by jarude87 View Post
    Considering a V5 Mayor preorder as N=1.

    Primary application is easy flat stuff, some trails, and year-round kid hauling. We don't get a ton of snow here (SW Ontario) but would rather have the option to go fat as needed, rather than be stuck inside on the fun snowy days.

    I'm a "steel is real" type so I first thought about the Surly Wednesday but I have a hard time paying +$350 for cool purple steel but an otherwise inferior spec to the Mayor. It does have mega brazeons and narrower Q factor though which is nice.

    My hesitation with the Mayor is that it could be too much of a lumbering, ponderous beast. The wide Q factor throws me off too. And the whole alu vs steel bit.

    I want to emphasize I'm no MTBer so I don't especially need max shreddiness or anything - just a solid value bike that's fun to ride all year and stable enough to haul kids. Not interested in upgrading - it's gotta be the right spec out of the box.

    Without being able to ride one - is the Mayor what I'm looking for, or should I be looking elsewhere?
    Mayor is the answer if you want a full fat bike. But if you want a narrower bike, a " skinny" fat bike with 157mm hub and 83mm BB like the RSD Sargant may be worth to look at.

    Obviously the skinny will be limited in heavy duty fatbiking, like in snow.
    Mayor v4
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  73. #1873
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    Quote Originally Posted by HerrKaLeu View Post
    Mayor is the answer if you want a full fat bike. But if you want a narrower bike, a " skinny" fat bike with 157mm hub and 83mm BB like the RSD Sargant may be worth to look at.

    Obviously the skinny will be limited in heavy duty fatbiking, like in snow.
    Thanks. I should've mentioned I have some 26x4.6" studded tires I was gifted that I want to put to good use, so am only considering full fat.

  74. #1874
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    Quote Originally Posted by jarude87 View Post
    Considering a V5 Mayor preorder as N=1.

    Primary application is easy flat stuff, some trails, and year-round kid hauling. We don't get a ton of snow here (SW Ontario) but would rather have the option to go fat as needed, rather than be stuck inside on the fun snowy days.

    I'm a "steel is real" type so I first thought about the Surly Wednesday but I have a hard time paying +$350 for cool purple steel but an otherwise inferior spec to the Mayor. It does have mega brazeons and narrower Q factor though which is nice.

    My hesitation with the Mayor is that it could be too much of a lumbering, ponderous beast. The wide Q factor throws me off too. And the whole alu vs steel bit.

    I want to emphasize I'm no MTBer so I don't especially need max shreddiness or anything - just a solid value bike that's fun to ride all year and stable enough to haul kids. Not interested in upgrading - it's gotta be the right spec out of the box.

    Without being able to ride one - is the Mayor what I'm looking for, or should I be looking elsewhere?
    Frankly, I wouldn't let of my Mayors. If you want a versatile, comfortable bike, the Mayor is every bit that.
    I'll say, I have zero interest in running anything other than 26 x 4.8 or 27.5 x 4.5 on the Mayor since I intentionally purchased a fatbike. I find the fat is just too enjoyable to screw around with narrower tires when the expectation is fat n plush when I ride the Mayor. I once tried 4.0's and couldn't wait to let the air out of them and inflate some 4.8's.

    The Mayor doesn't require a hard core MTB'r, just a rider that wants to pedal and explore for fun. With fat, unless you overinflate the tires, good luck discerning steel, ti and aluminum differences! This is NOT a road bike with 23mm rock hard tires but a fatbike with 6 or 8 PSI in massive, soft, luxurious tires...
    Q factor... This is a tough one snice I am perfectly oblivious to the Mayor's 100mm and 210mm Q difference from the Middlechild that has a 73mm BB.
    On Q, look at how you walk... Do you scrub your feet together in your stride? When you stand, facing someone during conversation, are your feet against one another or spread apart? That may give some insight in terms of whether Q will go noticed or unnoticed. The true answer is a real world pedal on a bike with similar Q.

    As the Mayor is specced outta the box, upgrades can hold until a component is used up, lest you enjoy showering a bike in gifts, of which I plead guilty as charged!!

    Bottom line, I love my V3 and V4! Their ability to ride anywhere is what makes them who they are. Can you say Jeep?? They do not require snow, they require a rider with imagination and the "explorer" mindset.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  75. #1875
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    Awesome fun today. Longer front with a slacker HTA really allows me to weight the front tire making for a fun ride getting the rear wheel to drift around corners. Weird feeling at first, but super fun.

    RSD Bikes "The Mayor"-56b6a130-0680-49e8-a9d3-cec1545ce406.jpeg

    RSD Bikes "The Mayor"-3baa1a34-df45-4273-957c-db42013609fa.jpeg

    RSD Bikes "The Mayor"-ae87e3a6-ef74-4203-8a3b-6422bbb52852.jpeg
    Get out of the gutter and onto the mountain top.

  76. #1876
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    Mack, I've been too lazy to swap the winter tires on the Mayor... That is leading to some fun and trialsy fatness.
    Looks like you're having a great time with your bike and getting some snow between the treads. Get after it, brother!
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  77. #1877
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    Quote Originally Posted by jarude87 View Post
    Considering a V5 Mayor preorder as N=1.

    Primary application is easy flat stuff, some trails, and year-round kid hauling. We don't get a ton of snow here (SW Ontario) but would rather have the option to go fat as needed, rather than be stuck inside on the fun snowy days.

    I'm a "steel is real" type so I first thought about the Surly Wednesday but I have a hard time paying +$350 for cool purple steel but an otherwise inferior spec to the Mayor. It does have mega brazeons and narrower Q factor though which is nice.

    My hesitation with the Mayor is that it could be too much of a lumbering, ponderous beast. The wide Q factor throws me off too. And the whole alu vs steel bit.

    I want to emphasize I'm no MTBer so I don't especially need max shreddiness or anything - just a solid value bike that's fun to ride all year and stable enough to haul kids. Not interested in upgrading - it's gotta be the right spec out of the box.

    Without being able to ride one - is the Mayor what I'm looking for, or should I be looking elsewhere?
    So what did you do?

    Iím kinda in same boat .

    Iím looking @ the Farley , Mukluk and Growler stout.

    I wanted the wozo or woo but they are out- the Farley runs small but good specs, the Mukluk is a tad bigger but low end specs and the Growler is $$ expensive.

    The rsd comes in xxl but itís frame doesnít seem high end - itís holding me up.
    If it were steel Iíd own it by now.


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  78. #1878
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    Just found out the Mayor is now not arriving until the very end of January. I appreciate their situation but this is edging towards deal-killer for those of us with only a 3 month winter. My motivation to stay in the pre-order is that the Mayor in XXL is the only fat bike to fit me and all of them are spoken for.


    Quote Originally Posted by TheNatureBoy View Post
    So what did you do?

    Iím kinda in same boat .

    Iím looking @ the Farley , Mukluk and Growler stout.

    I wanted the wozo or woo but they are out- the Farley runs small but good specs, the Mukluk is a tad bigger but low end specs and the Growler is $$ expensive.

    The rsd comes in xxl but itís frame doesnít seem high end - itís holding me up.
    If it were steel Iíd own it by now.


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  79. #1879
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crockpot2001 View Post
    Just found out the Mayor is now not arriving until the very end of January. I appreciate their situation but this is edging towards deal-killer for those of us with only a 3 month winter. My motivation to stay in the pre-order is that the Mayor in XXL is the only fat bike to fit me and all of them are spoken for.
    All xxl are out ?


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  80. #1880
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    It is my understanding they are all spoken for BUT I also saw where they stopped taking pre-orders due to drive trail availability for 12 spds. Maybe that skews the view. I ordered in September, I think, and just got the base rigid model with 11 speed.



    Quote Originally Posted by TheNatureBoy View Post
    All xxl are out ?


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  81. #1881
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    The drop down says 2 clear cost xxl frame only are available.


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  82. #1882
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    For those that inflate the tires on a 4.8 fatbike to 30 PSI which is ludicrous in the first place, you might feel the difference in steel vs. aluminum... Remember, these are not road bikes with 23mm wide tires! My MiddleChild is steel and wears exclusively 3.0's... For all I know, it's made of tungsten, or maybe wet noodles... The 3.0's mask the feel that small tire bikes cannot since the tires and wheels will cause illusion.

    What is or is not "high end"? Subjective statement, perhaps. It is an aluminum frame with sliding dropout as a standard feature. Through axle is a given these days on anything worthy. Please describe what might make this frame lesser.

    With the scamdemic or what ever you feel like calling it, sourcing parts for anything under the sun has been drastically affected by nations under house arrest. So many countries have had partial and total shutdowns that have made life difficult for operations like RSD to simply function. Local bike shops are looking like they are going out of business My electronic business is suffering since I cannot obtain components for some of the products... Go figure! I feel the same pain that Alex is feeling lately with being sidelined by circumstance.
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  83. #1883
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    Bummer about the further delay. Love the V4, but being an XL it is small for me. Oh well, Iíve made due with bikes that are too small for about 30 years now, whatís another 2 or 3 months?

    Had a blast on yesterdayís turkey ride.

    RSD Bikes "The Mayor"-d2fd39e2-ecaa-4be5-b364-072cac4361ca.jpeg

    RSD Bikes "The Mayor"-1dd7ff00-6755-4e9a-af0a-b9dc8dcbb196.jpeg

    RSD Bikes "The Mayor"-91a93a14-a68d-44b5-b75e-5d421e4f9e76.jpeg

    RSD Bikes "The Mayor"-7d827dcb-d036-4395-968a-31f6aa3ffbe6.jpeg
    Get out of the gutter and onto the mountain top.

  84. #1884
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    Anyone have their frame welds crack on their Mayor?
    RSD Bikes "The Mayor"-20201130_151420v2.jpg
    Mine is a 2015 and I'm pretty disappointed, I'm an older guy, less that 180lbs geared up and do not ride it hard (I do ride it often, but only in the winter - it's a snow only bike). Not sure if it's even safe to ride. Any idea of the warranty RSD has? I haven't tried to contact them yet - wondering if it's worthwhile given it's a 5 year old bike...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RSD Bikes "The Mayor"-20201130_151420.jpg  


  85. #1885
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    reckhard, Alex will take care of ya. Email him with those pix. While this is the exception, there is a warranty.

    How much seat post is in this bike? That actually looks as though the post ends right at the top of the junction.
    Last edited by BansheeRune; 1 Day Ago at 07:18 PM.
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