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  1. #1801
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    RSD Bikes "The Mayor"

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    Last edited by Guy.Ford; 9 Hours Ago at 03:25 PM.
    #THELEGENDMTB
    2016 RSD Mayor
    2018 Diamondback Release 5CA

  2. #1802
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcracer2 View Post
    I would say just get a set of 4.0, 4.4 or 4.8 Jumbo Jim tires and set them up tubeless. If your rims aren't tubeless compatible then upgrade the rim or wheelset (Carbon if you can).
    These tires roll so fast you will be very hard pressed to benefit from another size for what you are doing. These are even good for a lot of snow conditions when properly aired. The only way to account for all winter conditions is to have multiple tire sets; I have 2 sets for each fat bike.

    1 set for deep/icy and 1 set for light/grippy snow
    I have tuebelss 26 wheels (so yes, this is a 1st World problem). I wanted to go to 27.5" wheels to get more rollover and use the growing tire selection in 27.5. You have a good point with the jumbo jims, they seem popular for the non-snow. But from what I read they are not great in winter (un-ungroomed snow). I guess I would rather have a tire that is good in winter, and just OK in summer.

    I will scratch the 29+ wheelset idea. Too much cost and compromise. Off-road it won't be as good a s real fat and on normal paths that added rolling resistance of fat tire doesn't bother me enough (just go slower). Maybe I will get a dedicated 29+ bike at some point. I secretly fancy the Jones bike.

    to re-phrase my questions:
    Did anyone install 27.5x4.5 tires and think the geometry got screwed up compared to the 26x4.8"? I realize BB and standover will be a tiny bit higher.

    Quote Originally Posted by Guy.Ford View Post
    I have a V3 XL Mayor, I found the L Revelate Ranger fit my frame almost perfectly. Measure your inner triangle and give their site a look, it might work out.


    https://www.revelatedesigns.com/inde.../fullframebags

    Sent from #THELEGENDMTB using Tapatalk on an iPhone
    Thanks. I had looked at Relevate already when I ordered my old Rogue Panda custom bags. The problem with Relevate is the cost is almost the same as with Rogue Panda. I measured my frame and the L-bag would be a bit too large, the M would leave gaps (and waste space). i think they have a 15% sale, but that would make them just a tiny bit cheaper than the custom bag. I guess at that price, i pay the $20 extra and get a perfectly fitting bag. it isn't just for the perfect look, I'm also pressed for space. But thanks anyway.
    Mayor v4
    Giant Toughroad

  3. #1803
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    I think I'll just break out the sewing mosheen and make my own bike bags as opposed to paying the astronomical prices these companies are charging. Talk 'bout breakin it off in some fatbikers ass! Holy moly, I can buy plenty of cordura and other fabrics on the budget of one "boutique bag" and make many utilitarian bags.

    My friend's wife made my pogies a couple years ago. Not too many of y'all have the awesome bicycle print fleece lining like I do, cause Myrna is a creative sort!

    HerrKaLeun, 27.5 vs. 26 will make no change in geo unless you do a mullet. BB height might increase slightly but that is a bonus for a rock crawler...
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  4. #1804
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    Can we talk for just a moment about how annoying the v3 rear brake mount is? That rear bolt hole... I use a long reach hex bit, attached to a long wrench extension, and it still conflicts with the seat stay, resulting in a slightly imperfect angle. I bought special tools, just for it. Trail side repair... 1/4 turn at a time?!?

    Great bike though.

  5. #1805
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    Quote Originally Posted by AllMountin' View Post
    Can we talk for just a moment about how annoying the v3 rear brake mount is? That rear bolt hole... I use a long reach hex bit, attached to a long wrench extension, and it still conflicts with the seat stay, resulting in a slightly imperfect angle. I bought special tools, just for it. Trail side repair... 1/4 turn at a time?!?

    Great bike though.
    Uhh, wut? I just use a regular hex wrench. You can only do 1/4 turn at a time, but patience and it works just fine. Having the ball-joint at the end of the hex wrench helps (and allows you to just spin it till you get "close"), but it's not necessary. If your kit doesn't include free L-shaped hex wrenches, this may be a good time to go out and buy some. There are plenty of other places on the bike where there's limited space and good ole "standard" hex wrenches are my go-to. As nice as the pedros and park wrenches are to hold, they ain't going to fit in a lot of places on the bike and the ball-ends will slip at any significant angle, rendering them only useful for getting "close", till you break out the regular hex wrench.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  6. #1806
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    Quote Originally Posted by HerrKaLeun View Post
    I have tuebelss 26 wheels (so yes, this is a 1st World problem). I wanted to go to 27.5" wheels to get more rollover and use the growing tire selection in 27.5. You have a good point with the jumbo jims, they seem popular for the non-snow. But from what I read they are not great in winter (un-ungroomed snow). I guess I would rather have a tire that is good in winter, and just OK in summer.

    I will scratch the 29+ wheelset idea. Too much cost and compromise. Off-road it won't be as good a s real fat and on normal paths that added rolling resistance of fat tire doesn't bother me enough (just go slower). Maybe I will get a dedicated 29+ bike at some point. I secretly fancy the Jones bike.

    to re-phrase my questions:
    Did anyone install 27.5x4.5 tires and think the geometry got screwed up compared to the 26x4.8"? I realize BB and standover will be a tiny bit higher.
    The whole idea of 27.5 on a fat bike isn't for better rollover but for lower weight. The 27.5 tires are about the same diameter on average as their 26 counterparts. They are designed for a lower sidewall. Here is some data from 45north that backs this up.
    https://45nrth.com/files/media/16437...o_Chart_VF.pdf

  7. #1807
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    Part of the fun for me is that the bolts picked up enough corrosion that they had significant resistance all the way in/out. I ran some bolts back and forth over and over with the driver to free it up, plus some anti seize. The socket style hex tools interfere with the stay, and wheel on access is especially tight.

  8. #1808
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    Quote Originally Posted by AllMountin' View Post
    Can we talk for just a moment about how annoying the v3 rear brake mount is? That rear bolt hole... I use a long reach hex bit, attached to a long wrench extension, and it still conflicts with the seat stay, resulting in a slightly imperfect angle. I bought special tools, just for it. Trail side repair... 1/4 turn at a time?!?

    Great bike though.
    Ball end hex wrench to get it home, standard hex to torque works just fine on my V3. Drama averted in the nick of time!
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  9. #1809
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    Quote Originally Posted by reckhard View Post
    The whole idea of 27.5 on a fat bike isn't for better rollover but for lower weight. The 27.5 tires are about the same diameter on average as their 26 counterparts. They are designed for a lower sidewall. Here is some data from 45north that backs this up.
    https://45nrth.com/files/media/16437...o_Chart_VF.pdf
    Just to clarify, my plan is to use 27.5x4.5, not 4.0.
    The 4.5 will be larger than 26x4.8. the PDF you shared doesn't seem to have tires of the "fullsize", only 27.4x4.0.
    Mayor v4
    Giant Toughroad

  10. #1810
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    Anyone tried 27.5+ tires (3.0) for a hardtail/trailbike ? I've seen 29+ Mayor but no 27.5+.. Would the bottom bracket be too low ?

  11. #1811
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    Quote Originally Posted by QuebecDirt View Post
    Anyone tried 27.5+ tires (3.0) for a hardtail/trailbike ? I've seen 29+ Mayor but no 27.5+.. Would the bottom bracket be too low ?
    Very likely so. If I do plus with my Mayor, I would go 29 and only with 3.0 or 3.25's.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  12. #1812
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    Chainstay Length

    So I set up my Mayor v4 with the sliding dropout to be the all the way forward (shorter chainstay) and still have plenty of tire clearance on my 26x4.8 tires.

    I left the chain a bit longer to be able to adjust chainstay length. But now want to cut it to the correct length. I wonder if there is any reason to set the chainstay longer than necessary for tire clearance? Seems that people always like shorter chainstays.

    I realize i could just try out riding with different lengths, but fear there will be more confirmation bias than actual difference if I change chainstay by 5mm at a time and observe riding.

    I'm pretty sure by the time i upgrade to larger 27.5x4.5 I will need a new chain anyway.

    So does everyone just ride with chainstays as short as possible for tire clearance? Or am I doing myself a disservice by not using longer chainstay setting (i.e. more stable and smoother ride)?

    BTW, is there a manual on how to set the dropouts? I kind of think I can see how to use them, but wonder if there is an official way to ensure both dropouts are set the same way and what torque?
    Mayor v4
    Giant Toughroad

  13. #1813
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    I think its all personal preference. I like short for summer and longer in the winter. It seems to help distribute weight better over the snow.

  14. #1814
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    Quote Originally Posted by HerrKaLeun View Post
    So I set up my Mayor v4 with the sliding dropout to be the all the way forward (shorter chainstay) and still have plenty of tire clearance on my 26x4.8 tires.

    I left the chain a bit longer to be able to adjust chainstay length. But now want to cut it to the correct length. I wonder if there is any reason to set the chainstay longer than necessary for tire clearance? Seems that people always like shorter chainstays.

    I realize i could just try out riding with different lengths, but fear there will be more confirmation bias than actual difference if I change chainstay by 5mm at a time and observe riding.

    I'm pretty sure by the time i upgrade to larger 27.5x4.5 I will need a new chain anyway.

    So does everyone just ride with chainstays as short as possible for tire clearance? Or am I doing myself a disservice by not using longer chainstay setting (i.e. more stable and smoother ride)?

    BTW, is there a manual on how to set the dropouts? I kind of think I can see how to use them, but wonder if there is an official way to ensure both dropouts are set the same way and what torque?
    A good approach is to experiment with the slider setup. Give each setting a try for a reasonable ride. Getting a feel for what that position does to the handling and feel will open up more experience and you will find what works for your comfort and riding style.

    Go to the website as I believe there is a torque spec on each frame and its dropout. The dropouts should be set equally so the wheel is straight and true with the bike.

    Long setting will load the front wheel more and short setting will lighten the front. If ya like floating the front go to the middle or toward the front with the slider. Autosmith said it right, it is personal and subjective as tire pressure so, yeah, experiment and enjoy the time tinkering and trying it.

    Torques Specs for 4 Drop-Out Bolts: 17N/m to 20N/m From RSD Mayor V4 Spec & Geometry page.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  15. #1815
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    Quote Originally Posted by HerrKaLeun View Post
    So I set up my Mayor v4 with the sliding dropout to be the all the way forward (shorter chainstay) and still have plenty of tire clearance on my 26x4.8 tires.

    I left the chain a bit longer to be able to adjust chainstay length. But now want to cut it to the correct length. I wonder if there is any reason to set the chainstay longer than necessary for tire clearance? Seems that people always like shorter chainstays.

    I realize i could just try out riding with different lengths, but fear there will be more confirmation bias than actual difference if I change chainstay by 5mm at a time and observe riding.

    I'm pretty sure by the time i upgrade to larger 27.5x4.5 I will need a new chain anyway.

    So does everyone just ride with chainstays as short as possible for tire clearance? Or am I doing myself a disservice by not using longer chainstay setting (i.e. more stable and smoother ride)?

    BTW, is there a manual on how to set the dropouts? I kind of think I can see how to use them, but wonder if there is an official way to ensure both dropouts are set the same way and what torque?
    I slide back and forth depending on conditions more than tires.
    Tight twisty single track, i slam the axel all the way forward. More playful and responsive.
    Riding loose conditions, like ungroomed snow or sand, i pull the axel as far back as i can for a more stable ride. Same thing if you're bikebacking and have the bike weighted down.
    Go for a ride in the sand and test it out, 10 to 15mm can make a huge difference just like a couple psi does in your tires.
    Cheers!

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    Keep the Rubber Side Down

  16. #1816
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    RSD Bikes "The Mayor"

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    Last edited by Guy.Ford; 9 Hours Ago at 03:23 PM.
    #THELEGENDMTB
    2016 RSD Mayor
    2018 Diamondback Release 5CA

  17. #1817
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    Guy,

    Commandant Polis hasn't lowered the boom on us yet.

    The Mayor, MiddleChild are seeing loads of trail time as of late.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
    Doctor recommended...

  18. #1818
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    So i tested riding with the wheel up front (450mm chansitay) and all the way back (465mm). for my riding, it doesn't really make a difference. i swear, someone could break in my garage and switch it and i wouldn't notice.

    The only real difference was that shifting was smoother when back, since I had left my chain longer in anticipation of changing the chainstay length. now I moved the sliders all the way forward and shortened the chain tot he correct length.
    Mayor v4
    Giant Toughroad

  19. #1819
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    Did you play and get rowdy? Wheelie and float the front wheel over obstacles? Head out on some trails with good, high quality curves and great features to get into the handling and see if it becomes apparent that CS does make handling changes
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  20. #1820
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    Quote Originally Posted by BansheeRune View Post
    Very likely so. If I do plus with my Mayor, I would go 29 and only with 3.0 or 3.25's.
    Should be OK since it only has 50mm BB drop.

  21. #1821
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcracer2 View Post
    Should be OK since it only has 50mm BB drop.
    29 would be a good choice however, 27.5 might not give the desired result due to ground clearance.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  22. #1822
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    Hey All, has anyone installed a works components 1.0 or 1.5 degree angleset to a Mayor v3? I am keeping mine full rigid, but thinking a lil slacker head angle would be nice for steeper and to carry a bit more stability through DH rock gardens. It's rather fun when i go full bucking bronco, but for less than $100 USD I'm thinking it's worth a go. Any thoughts?

  23. #1823
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blk06CompIRL View Post
    Hey All, has anyone installed a works components 1.0 or 1.5 degree angleset to a Mayor v3? I am keeping mine full rigid, but thinking a lil slacker head angle would be nice for steeper and to carry a bit more stability through DH rock gardens. It's rather fun when i go full bucking bronco, but for less than $100 USD I'm thinking it's worth a go. Any thoughts?
    Give it a go. A 1-1.5 change will be pronounced.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  24. #1824
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blk06CompIRL View Post
    Hey All, has anyone installed a works components 1.0 or 1.5 degree angleset to a Mayor v3? I am keeping mine full rigid, but thinking a lil slacker head angle would be nice for steeper and to carry a bit more stability through DH rock gardens. It's rather fun when i go full bucking bronco, but for less than $100 USD I'm thinking it's worth a go. Any thoughts?
    I'll echo Banshee and say give it a go. I got one for my Pugsley, I was limited to 1* only, but that in addition to a taller fork (470mm vs the 447mm stocker) really changed the way the bike felt for the better.
    Silly bike things happening.

  25. #1825
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    Cool, thanks. Now the question is do i go 1 or 1.5? Leaning towards the 1.5 as i wont be over forking it and i feel more is better lol

  26. #1826
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blk06CompIRL View Post
    Cool, thanks. Now the question is do i go 1 or 1.5? Leaning towards the 1.5 as i wont be over forking it and i feel more is better lol
    If I were doing the deed, I would go 1.5. Another method is with fork rake.
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  27. #1827
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    Plus Mullet Mayor, prepping for backpacking. Axiom rack fits like a glove.

  28. #1828
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    Allmountain, how does that ride? Sounds interesting!
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  29. #1829
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    I like it a lot. This configuration feels natural. Just wants to roll. Easy to elevate the front end. Pretty plush for rigid. I've been having a time on it.

    Just built up a steel 29er though, so I'll prolly set this one up with the rack and bags for good, and use it for longer rides and backpacking. I've now got three wheelsets for this bike. Full fat, studs, and plus mullet. Between my dj, this and the new build, I think my stable is pretty diverse. Happy.

  30. #1830
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    Quote Originally Posted by AllMountin' View Post
    I like it a lot. This configuration feels natural. Just wants to roll. Easy to elevate the front end. Pretty plush for rigid. I've been having a time on it.

    Just built up a steel 29er though, so I'll prolly set this one up with the rack and bags for good, and use it for longer rides and backpacking. I've now got three wheelsets for this bike. Full fat, studs, and plus mullet. Between my dj, this and the new build, I think my stable is pretty diverse. Happy.
    Good stuff! It really is a good time experimenting with configurations.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
    Doctor recommended...

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