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  1. #1
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    Rolling Darryl Split Tube Pictorial

    Quickest, Cheapest, and Easiest way to go tubeless (to me at least!)

    This is the 3rd set of Darryl's I've set up this way. Before undertaking this, I would recommend mounting the wheels with a tube for a couple days to give the tire it's shape and make this process easier. Doing it during inclement weather helps as well so you won't be jonesing to ride while your wheels set up

    Start with a clean rim and your choice of rim strip.

    Rolling Darryl Split Tube Pictorial-st1.jpg

    These tubes have worked well for me in previous applications. If you use a different presta tube, ensure it has a removable core.

    Rolling Darryl Split Tube Pictorial-st2.jpg

    Put the tube on the wheel and inflate a little to give it some shape. This lets you center it easily and makes it easier for the next step.

    Rolling Darryl Split Tube Pictorial-st3.jpg

    Cut the tube along it's center seam.

    Rolling Darryl Split Tube Pictorial-st4.jpg

    And fold it back along the edges of the rim.

    Rolling Darryl Split Tube Pictorial-st5.jpg

    Take a moist paper towel and wipe off the talcum powder.

    Rolling Darryl Split Tube Pictorial-st6.jpg

    Mount the tire and center the tube again. If you're neurotic like me, you'll also center the tire label over the valve stem.

    Rolling Darryl Split Tube Pictorial-st7.jpg

    Spray the beads with soapy water. Spray the top half of both sides, then flip the wheel and spray the remaining half.

    Rolling Darryl Split Tube Pictorial-st8.jpg

    Rolling Darryl Split Tube Pictorial-st9.jpg

    Mount your floor pump and inflate to 20psi. You may hear some satisfying pops as the bead sets. I usually use my compressor for this part but it was 3 degrees in the garage so I chanced it with the floor pump, which set right up.

    Rolling Darryl Split Tube Pictorial-st10.jpg

    Rolling Darryl Split Tube Pictorial-st11.jpg

    I let the wheels sit overnight cause I was tired. When I came down in the morning, they were still hard.

    Gather your sealant of choice, spoke wrench (#11) and delivery method (I like to use 4oz so that equals 2 little Stan's bottles, which fit right in the stem.)

    Rolling Darryl Split Tube Pictorial-st12.jpg

    Placing the valve at 6 o'clock, use the #11 spoke wrench to remove the core.

    Once deflated, put your 4oz of sealant in the valve stem, replace the core, set the valve stem at 12 o'clock and re-inflate to 20psi.

    Do the Stan's shake and place the wheel on top of a bucket or some other object that will allow the wheel to sit flat on it's side. I usually flip the wheel every 30 minutes or so at first and do the Stan's shake again for a couple hours.

    Rolling Darryl Split Tube Pictorial-st13.jpg

    After your satisfied your tires have set, trim the excess tube off to your desire, I usually leave a 1/4 to 1/3 of an inch.

    Rolling Darryl Split Tube Pictorial-st14.jpg

    Mount, set your pressure, and go ride! If you have any small leaks along the bead, riding them will usually cure this.

  2. #2
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    Very nice pictures along with a detailed protocol. Nice work!

    Out of curiosity how much weight do you think you save?
    I don't know why,... it's just MUSS easier to pedal than the other ones.

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    Do you have to fish the split tube out from under the bead after remounting the tire? If not, how do you ensure the edge of the split tube remains outside of the bead while remounting? Seems like it would get pushed into the middle.

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    Interesting. Not really "tubeless" if you are still running a tube.

    Dumb new guy question alert: What benefits are you experiencing running your wheels this way?
    Just enjoy the ride...:cool:

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by dbhammercycle View Post
    Very nice pictures along with a detailed protocol. Nice work!

    Out of curiosity how much weight do you think you save?
    Not really sure. I do it for the ride improvement and lower pressures.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by hiro11 View Post
    Do you have to fish the split tube out from under the bead after remounting the tire? If not, how do you ensure the edge of the split tube remains outside of the bead while remounting? Seems like it would get pushed into the middle.
    As I mount the second bead I stick a finger under and pull it out. These tires fit loose enough on the rim before inflation to allow for this. It's quite easy.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by rob5589 View Post
    Interesting. Not really "tubeless" if you are still running a tube.

    Dumb new guy question alert: What benefits are you experiencing running your wheels this way?
    It's tubeless in the fact that I won't suffer any flats from punctured tubes, right? The Stan's will plug any small punctures in the tire.

    That and it allows your tire to conform to the trail better, you can run lower pressures with worrying about pinch flats (snakebite), better traction, and the tire actually increases in size a little.

  8. #8
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    Oh. my. gosh. I've never thought to use a spoke wrench to remove the valve core. I'm usually wrestling with a too-big crescent wrench... Only been tubeless since like 2006 so this is timely advice.
    You have no excuse for driving to work
    (unless you don't have studded tires)
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    Quote Originally Posted by SeaBass_ View Post
    ....... use the #11 spoke wrench to remove the core......
    can't believe this never dawned on me before.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by SeaBass_ View Post
    It's tubeless in the fact that I won't suffer any flats from punctured tubes, right? The Stan's will plug any small punctures in the tire.

    That and it allows your tire to conform to the trail better, you can run lower pressures with worrying about pinch flats (snakebite), better traction, and the tire actually increases in size a little.
    Hmmm, sounds pretty cool and looks easy enough. I am going to check but, I am guessing that the stock rims on my Gravity aren't tubeless compatible.

    Thanks for the reply.
    Just enjoy the ride...:cool:

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by SeaBass_ View Post
    Not really sure. I do it for the ride improvement and lower pressures.
    No doubt, just curious.
    I don't know why,... it's just MUSS easier to pedal than the other ones.

  12. #12
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    spoke wrench. I was way off. Brilliant.

    Even though split tube uses a tube, it's still tubeless. Just uses a different method to seal the rim instead of tape. Much better for rims that don't work well as tubeless rims.

    No need for sill foam to position the bead? It looks like there isn't much of a shelf for the rim to keep the tire where it belongs.
    "a hundred travel books isn't worth one real trip"

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    Very nice write-up. I usually like to trim my split tube tight to the tire though. It is pretty easy if you pull hard on the trimmed portion of the tube while running a sharp blade right by the bead. Ever even came close to cutting into a tire doing this, and you can't even tell the tube is there.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by SeaBass_ View Post
    As I mount the second bead I stick a finger under and pull it out. These tires fit loose enough on the rim before inflation to allow for this. It's quite easy.
    This likely ain't happening on some of the tighter tire/rim combinations.

  15. #15
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    I have the darryls also... no foam necessary, I didn't know anyone ever used it because I've never had a need for it.

    It's super easy to get the tube lined up after putting the tire on, even if you can't get a finger under there. The tube will be sticking out SOMEWHERE along the edge of the tire, just grab it there and work your way around pulling it out gently without pulling the other side in too far. When you push the side of the tire in, the tube wants to jump out of there.
    You have no excuse for driving to work
    (unless you don't have studded tires)
    (no excuse for that either)

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post
    Very nice write-up. I usually like to trim my split tube tight to the tire though. It is pretty easy if you pull hard on the trimmed portion of the tube while running a sharp blade right by the bead. Ever even came close to cutting into a tire doing this, and you can't even tell the tube is there.
    Thanks. I'll give that a try.

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    I really want to try this on my gravity bullseye monster. Not sure if the wire bead missions will work though. I have a bunch of 20 inch tubes sitting around but not sure they will make it to the edge of the rim. One way to find out.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by grooveface View Post
    I really want to try this on my gravity bullseye monster. Not sure if the wire bead missions will work though. I have a bunch of 20 inch tubes sitting around but not sure they will make it to the edge of the rim. One way to find out.
    Please do and report back. I have the same rims/tires and am thinking about giving it a try.
    Just enjoy the ride...:cool:

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by bme107 View Post
    can't believe this never dawned on me before.
    It's on the lezyne spoke wrench tool, but it's not exactly the same slot as the standard spoke wrench, but your multi-tool might have it.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  20. #20
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    I've used this method on my Clownshoes with BFL's for several years and it's foolproof. I go down to 3 psi on beach rides and never burped.
    Nice pictorial. By the way, I did use the sil foam to get the tire closer to the bead and was able to use a floor pump.


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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    It's on the lezyne spoke wrench tool, but it's not exactly the same slot as the standard spoke wrench, but your multi-tool might have it.
    I'm going to check my 2 multitools and the older triplesided spoke wrench.

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