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  1. #1
    trail gnome
    Reputation: ray.vermette's Avatar
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    Replace cleat bed on Wolvhammers?

    Not sure if I am using the correct term.... The sliding metal plate that the cleat bolts into is damaged and I want to replace it.

    I removed the insole and I'm not feeling a "flap" on the sole that I can lift. The inside of the boot appears to be a one-piece liner like a sock that I can move about, but I am not feeling any opening that I can use to access that metal plate. If there is a flap in the sole that I can lift to access the plate, I assume I will have to cut through the liner sock, and if the liner is the thing providing waterproofing for the boot, that the boot will no longer be waterproof, and I'm willing to accept that. It's either that, or buy a new set of boots. Or learn to ride clipless.

    I've Googled already. I haven't found anything remotely helpful.

    Thanks in advance for any help anyone can provide.
    Mountain bikers are generally a rational bunch...until someone moves a rock on our favorite trail and we lose our minds - LMN

  2. #2
    Music & Bikes
    Reputation: fokof's Avatar
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    I don't have a plate opening on mine either.....

    You could do minimal damage by cuting the Liner just one side of the plate , sliding out the plate through then maybe a little glue/epoxy/latex to waterproof the opening.
    "There is a big difference between kneeling down and bending over" -FZ

  3. #3
    mtbr member
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    I stripped one of mine as well. I was able to push it up from the bottom and swap it around so that I could use the other set of threads. I am glad i tried it as I was about to start cutting like you.

  4. #4
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    I did this on a set of northwave boots. It was harder than I anticipated. More layers to cut through than just the sock. I patched with silicone but it still leaks.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BlueCheesehead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SJ-AK View Post
    I stripped one of mine as well. I was able to push it up from the bottom and swap it around so that I could use the other set of threads. I am glad i tried it as I was about to start cutting like you.
    ^^^ I like that idea.

    If that does not work I would try tapping out for an M6 screw. If both of those fail I would get out the knife

  6. #6
    trail gnome
    Reputation: ray.vermette's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SJ-AK View Post
    I stripped one of mine as well. I was able to push it up from the bottom and swap it around so that I could use the other set of threads. I am glad i tried it as I was about to start cutting like you.
    Thanks for the advice. I was able to push it up from the bottom and twist it around as you did. It wasn't easy, but at least I didn't have to perform open-heart surgery on my boots.

    I learned a valuable lesson: grease the threads before putting on a new set of cleats, and regularly remove, clean, and regrease, so they don't become seized again.
    Mountain bikers are generally a rational bunch...until someone moves a rock on our favorite trail and we lose our minds - LMN

  7. #7
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    Anti seize and grease is your friend on fat bikes. I just tore my 9zero7 down to the bare frame, and the fasteners are not in the best of shape, and the lower headset bearings was pretty well fused to the frame. Stainless all the things!

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