Pugsley/Rolling Darryl Spoke Lengths- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Pugsley/Rolling Darryl Spoke Lengths

    Before I order up some spokes I was hoping someone could verify my math. I added/subtracted 17.5mm to the center to flange measurements in the calc, but not below.

    Rims: Surly Rolling Darryl, erd 544.5, osb 12.5

    Front hub: Surly new disc rear
    Driveside center to flange: 38.5
    Discside center to flange: 34.0
    Flange dia: 58.0
    Spoke dia: 2.4

    Rear hub: Shimano M529
    Driveside center to flange: 20.0
    Discside center to flange: 33.0
    Flange dia: 60.0
    Spoke dia: 2.4

    Laced 32h/3x

    My math worked out to:
    Front discside: 262mm
    Front driveside: 264mm
    Rear discside: 262mm
    Rear driveside: 262mm

    Thanks! I figure this is/will be a fairly common combo so having the resource here may helpful in the future.
    Jason
    Disclaimer: www.paramountfargo.com

  2. #2
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    Did you measure the ERD on the Darryl or did you grab it from somewhere on the web? The reason I ask is that I originally grabbed it off the web and then found that my spokes were a little short. I measured (should have done this initially) and found that my ERD was actually larger. Sorry, but I don't have the numbers I measured any more. I just resolved to do it again for the next set I was going to build.

  3. #3
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    The ERD I listed is from Surly's website. I have seen 542 listed on the freespoke website as well.
    Jason
    Disclaimer: www.paramountfargo.com

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    QBP Hub?

    Jag,

    If the hubs you are using are sold by QBP, your LBS can punch the part numbers of the hubs and RD rims into QBP's spoke calculator and get the spoke lengths. I've found it to be much easier and accurate that way.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by patirwin View Post
    Jag,

    If the hubs you are using are sold by QBP, your LBS can punch the part numbers of the hubs and RD rims into QBP's spoke calculator and get the spoke lengths. I've found it to be much easier and accurate that way.
    I had good luck with my first fat wheel build with the QBP's calculator but on the second set they told me about 2mm too long. Now I'm getting ready to build my third set and don't know if I can trust it.

  6. #6
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    I'm pretty confident in the numbers for the rear (Shimano) hub, because my math checks with G-reg's. The front (Surly) hub is a QBP part, but I've also read mixed reviews as bdundee mentioned.
    Jason
    Disclaimer: www.paramountfargo.com

  7. #7
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    FWIW, the #'s I gave you were from the Q's spoke calc.
    Slowly slipping to retrogrouchyness

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    I had good luck with my first fat wheel build with the QBP's calculator but on the second set they told me about 2mm too long. Now I'm getting ready to build my third set and don't know if I can trust it.
    I had the same experience... were you lacing it symmetrical or offset?

    Probably not a big deal with a double wall rim, but I wasn't happy that there were spokes sticking out from the tops of the nipples on the single wall Darryls.

    On a related note, anyone use a tensionometer when they built their wheels? If so, what kind of tensions did you end up with? Offset or symmetrical?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by FTMN View Post
    I had the same experience... were you lacing it symmetrical or offset?

    Probably not a big deal with a double wall rim, but I wasn't happy that there were spokes sticking out from the tops of the nipples on the single wall Darryls.

    On a related note, anyone use a tensionometer when they built their wheels? If so, what kind of tensions did you end up with? Offset or symmetrical?
    On the first set I did they where offset on Fat Shebas and they where spot on. The second set was Darryls on a symetrical build and they called for for 264 or 265's and freespoke called for 262's and I went 263mm and a few stuck out a little. I will check my tension spread sheet and get back to you for a symetrical build.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by FTMN View Post

    On a related note, anyone use a tensionometer when they built their wheels? If so, what kind of tensions did you end up with? Offset or symmetrical?
    RR 93.4 kg average
    LR 72.3 kg average

    RF 87.6 kg average
    LF 88.3 kg average

    Symetrical Build

    If you want my whole spread sheet with Park tools tensiometer readings pm me your email and I will shoot it to ya tomorrow.

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