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  1. #1
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    Pugsley Rohloff questions

    So I got my new hub yesterday. Spent the evening reading the book that came with it.

    I am really excited(I got a real good deal on this hub),but It is a CC hub, the manual says only to run these hubs in frames with vertical rear dropouts. Has anyone set this CC style of hub up on their Puglsey???
    I understand why they suggest you not use a CC hub in horizontal dropouts. Is there a solution,like a tug nut or something similar??

  2. #2
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    Congrats on the Rohloff.

    Quick release is no problem. I would use tug nuts on both sides. Surly's work well, but the left one might need modification to fit properly.

  3. #3
    Mr.Green
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    Hi, I’ve had some problems with the horizontal dropouts and my Rohloff CC: the non-drive side wouldn’t stay in place (36-17, combined with a ‘Monkey Bone’)
    Pugsley Rohloff questions-monkey_bone.jpg
    But I’ve found the solution, using ‘Fire Eye’s ASP Chain Tugs-10mm Non drive side, for both sides, only making a minor modification to the frame
    Pugsley Rohloff questions-001.jpg
    Pugsley Rohloff questions-002.jpg
    Pugsley Rohloff questions-003.jpg
    Mr.Green

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the photo's,that looks like a good set up. What type of skewers are you using,I have been looking at the DT swiss RWS skewers, they seem pretty beefy.

  5. #5
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    Rohloff in my Black Ops Surly 1x1 - same kind of dropouts as the Pugs.



    Surly Tugnut on drive side and Nashbar bolt on skewer & monkey bone. I flipped the rotor around since taking these pics.



    I need to ride it more this week to see if I can get it too move under hard braking.... The tugnut will stop the chain from pulling the right side of the wheel forward, but under hard braking the left side will want to move backwards.

    In my Pugs I use a bolt on Alfine and it stays put without a tugnut.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  6. #6
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    I modified the tug nut so it would't hit the speed bone. You can see the scratches that resulted before I ground down. You should't have that problem because of the monkey bone and position of the mech. Try another Surly tug nut on the left side. I can't see why to wouldn't work.

    Lars looks good too. I'll have to investigate that..
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Pugsley Rohloff questions-dscf2849.jpg  


  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by suba View Post
    Try another Surly tug nut on the left side. I can't see why to wouldn't work.
    What would be the point of a 2nd tugnut on the left? There is no force pulling the left side of the axle forward. The braking effect is pulling the wheel backwards which won't be resisted by a tugnut.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  8. #8
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    I think it aids in reducing the stress on the right side. The left side did slip forward sometimes without the tug nut. Anyway it seems to work for me..

  9. #9
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    I used a tuggnut on both sides as well on my pugs. I'm not sure why the non drive side would work itself forward but it did. Maybe something to do with the torque of the rohloff in low gears. I used DT Swiss RWS skewers and could have cranked them down more but that seemed to make the hub drag. So the double tuggnut did the trick.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by dave29er View Post
    I used a tuggnut on both sides as well on my pugs. I'm not sure why the non drive side would work itself forward but it did. Maybe something to do with the torque of the rohloff in low gears. I used DT Swiss RWS skewers and could have cranked them down more but that seemed to make the hub drag. So the double tuggnut did the trick.
    Same experience with my NuVinci hub on a Pugsley.
    Disclaimer: I run Regular Cycles (as of 2016). As a profiteer of the bicycle industry, I am not to be taken very seriously.

  11. #11
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    I think what's happening is there's a lot more friction ( bite ) between the tuggnut and dropout than there is when only using a QR or nut/washer. With tuggnuts the hub can't move forward if you have it set up right, and can't move backward because the tuggnuts are in full contact with the frame.

    My rear wheel sometimes moved around a little without the left tuggnut even when everything seemed tight. Now it doesn't move ever. The others are right that it's not good to over tighten the hub.

  12. #12
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    Interesting. I'll keep an eye on my Rohloff and see if she moves with only 1 tugnut.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  13. #13
    Mr.Green
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    Quote Originally Posted by akclimber49 View Post
    Thanks for the photo's,that looks like a good set up. What type of skewers are you using,I have been looking at the DT swiss RWS skewers, they seem pretty beefy.
    I’m using Salsa Flip-Offs skewers (in Green ).
    Lengthwise the Salsa Flip-Offs look like they were made for this set up.
    The great thing with this set up is, that it is not dependent on the skewers ‘clamping’ force and it works both as a chain tensioner and as a ‘brake stop’*.
    *When using disk brakes and horizontal dropouts, the hub has a tendency to move backwards.
    Mr.Green

  14. #14
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    One more question,regarding cranks. I have an FSA bottom bracket that is currently installed on my bike now, I would like to use that,since it is only about 6 mos old. The current sent of cranks are Truvativ blaze triple rings.. Can I use these cranks and just convert them to single ring?? I have been looking at the Race face atlas cranks too.

    Monkeybone and oem 2 axle plate are on order. getting closer to start the install.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by akclimber49 View Post
    One more question,regarding cranks. I have an FSA bottom bracket that is currently installed on my bike now, I would like to use that,since it is only about 6 mos old. The current sent of cranks are Truvativ blaze triple rings.. Can I use these cranks and just convert them to single ring?? I have been looking at the Race face atlas cranks too.

    Monkeybone and oem 2 axle plate are on order. getting closer to start the install.
    Just pull the rings and install the one you want to run with the Rohloff. It generally goes on the outer ring position, but have a look at your chainline to confirm that's correct.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  16. #16
    Mr.Green
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    Hi akclimber,
    If you’re going to use a Monkeybone and a oem 2 axel plate, it’s a wery tight fit and a small modification maybe be needed to the axel plate, where it meets the Monkeybone.

    Rohloff are making spacers, to so you don’t need to change your chainring bolts ;-)
    Mr.Green

  17. #17
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    Thanks for the help! I am getting my wheel built, should be ready sometime next week

  18. #18
    Mr.Green
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    A picture of my bike ;-)
    Pugsley Rohloff questions-004.jpg
    Mr.Green

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