New Scott fat bike: Big Jon - Page 3- Mtbr.com
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  1. #401
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    Max the most important thing is it has green graphics lol.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails New Scott fat bike: Big Jon-img_6007.jpg  

    New Scott fat bike: Big Jon-img_6000.jpg  

    New Scott fat bike: Big Jon-img_6004.jpg  

    Last edited by BIGFAT29; 09-16-2018 at 08:24 AM.

  2. #402
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    I think it looks great - more contemporary than a lot of fat bikes - and the Lefty looks insane

    Let us know how it rides

  3. #403
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    its funny you can ride the scott big jon all day long with no hands for the fun of it but this thing is not as easy with no hands.thanks again max.
    Last edited by BIGFAT29; 09-16-2018 at 08:26 AM.

  4. #404
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    Glad you like it BF29. I do too

    I haven't ridden Big Jon much since September. One of the advantages of having three other bikes that are fundamentally the same is that I can swap parts like Lego. After lying unridden since February this year I decided to rebuild my 26" HT. The frame and forks were still together but everything else had been scavenged so I retrieved some wheels, tyres, brakes, bars and cranks from the shed and put it back together. It's Commencal Ramones from 2013:

    New Scott fat bike: Big Jon-image1.jpg

    You know, I've done this a few times now and using the parts I already have means that on paper the spec looks like it would never fly but it does. The front tyre is a cast-off that never worked on a different bike but somehow on this one it feels great. The bars and stem were too wide/short but on this bike they have a motorcycle-type feel that just makes you want to grab them and ride. And the wheels - wow! Say what you want about Shimano cup-and-cone hubs but they spin so easily compared to cartridge hubs. The other parts are all odd but somehow the combination really works so I've been riding the wheels off it

  5. #405
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    Thats a sweet frankenbike max. the mad doctor is in the house ! hey why not swap out parts . I could see a little more orange bits on the bike to make it really pop.

  6. #406
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    We had some snow at the weekend. The first since I got Big Jon in Oct 2015.

    I have to say sand and snow are two of my least favourite surfaces to ride on but riding in the snow was Actually Pretty Good on the fat bike. Where the snow was uninterrupted it was almost as good as dry dirt - lots of grip and forward motion combined with more prolonged sideways action compared to a thin bike.

    Worst parts where the snow hadn't covered and it was apocalyptically muddy

    New Scott fat bike: Big Jon-image2.jpg

  7. #407
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    Now thats riding in a winter wonderland ! its about time you got to have some fun in the snow !

  8. #408
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    Do you get much snow bud?

    And how's that sweet Cannondale

  9. #409
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    Just started to get the first real snow but only 1 inch so far.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails New Scott fat bike: Big Jon-img_6323.jpg  

    New Scott fat bike: Big Jon-img_6327.jpg  

    Last edited by BIGFAT29; 09-16-2018 at 08:27 AM.

  10. #410
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    Looks amazing

    And is that a black and green chain?

    Edit: just seen your other pic indeed it is! Sick!

  11. #411
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    Yep black and green chain made by kmc. its one of the best chains kmc makes. you know max they make yellow ,orange ,green and blue.its time for you to dress up your bikes chains.

  12. #412
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    joining this thread , first post and yes i have a big jon 2017 still new and one trail ride and first one done ..

  13. #413
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    When can I post a pic

  14. #414
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    2018 scott big jon

    Go for it post some pics.heres another photo I found a 2018 scott big jon.anyone have a 2018 lets see it !
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails New Scott fat bike: Big Jon-4366447795.jpg  


  15. #415
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    I think I m to new ? To post p8c of my 2017 big jon

  16. #416
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    Upset Scott and Syncros need to stop making bicycles.

    I have this bike as well. I love riding it and once you learn it you can start go fast!



    However, Scott and Syncros have done themselves NO FAVORS AT ALL. Because of the ineptitude I can not recommend to anyone to buy this bike or probably their other Fat Bike.

    My rear hub, like others in this thread is SCHAIGHT!

    First month the inner workings/teeth of the hub broke. No longer engaging the freewheel. Scott and Syncros do NOT cover this under warranty. It was 150 Euro to replace it.

    Second, the freewheel itself deformed/broke 4 months later and Scott and Syncros do not sell this separately. At present my LBS can't get a new freewheel, a new whole wheel is going to be 400+ EUR, a whole new HUB will be 250+ EUR.

    Thirdly, the headset in this bike is CHEEEEEEEAP! With exposed bearing rollers. I've replaced both the upper and lower bearing sets twice in a year. The engineering and design of the fork/headset simply allows water to flow through freely.

    Fourthly, The Raceface crank is not going to be your friend. The chain rings standard on will wear down like butter (very cheap). When you go to replace them you will find that you can only put compatible Raceface chain rings on there (60 Eur for the big one). Standard Shimano or Sram will not fit unless you do some Dremel surgery .

    So while this is a fun bike to ride it is a horrible bike to maintain and operate. Scott does make some good bikes and syncros does make some ok parts. However, after my experience here I am never going with Scott or Syncros again. I bought this bike thinking it would be easy to maintain and do work on my self. This is not the case

  17. #417
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    Sorry Fifthly, the rear derailleur hanger bolts have come lose. I need to tighten them back up on each ride. I've tried lock-tite and such no luck. The loose derailleur hanger then results in a creaking cracking noise when putting power into the pedals and bad shifting.

    This is my first Scott bicycle since I switched from another disappointing brand. Overall, both experiences have convinced me why the bike shop guys go for speciality brands and stay away from this commercial crapiola.

  18. #418
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    Sorry to hear about your bad experiences with the Big Jon. Fortunately I don't think they're representative of the overall brand and it's quality. Of all the folks I've come across, most have been very happy. I've been beating on my rig for 2.5 years now and haven't had to do anything more than routine maintenance and an occasional tightening of this or that.

    Just upgraded the cassette to a Sunrace 11-50 and swapped out the factory SLX 2x for XT 1x and swapped the chainring while I was at it. It's like a whole new bike all over again.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails New Scott fat bike: Big Jon-sunrace-rf.jpg  


  19. #419
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    For balance I've had a few hiccups with mine (documented in this thread) but ime nothing extraordinary.

    The rear hub is a bit rough but that started about a year ago and although it's still rough it hasn't actually got any worse

    The rear hanger did indeed come loose but was easily fixed with some lock-on bolts New Scott fat bike: Big Jon - Page 3- Mtbr.com

    I didn't expect the headset to last as long as it did but since replacing it with Hope bearings I haven't given it another thought New Scott fat bike: Big Jon - Page 3- Mtbr.com

    The original RF cranks are still in place and have been used with RF, Renthal, E13 and Superstar rings.

    Compared to my other bikes that need some sort of attention every two or three rides the Big Jon is a lot less troublesome

  20. #420
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    Looks like this thread may have expired but I recently picked up a '17 Big Jon, have done the usual upgrades, 1x11, dropper, bars, saddle, tubeless etc. Totally loving it (at least I was until pedal-induced shin laceration has put me out for a month...)

    Contemplating a fork upgrade, I guess 100mm Bluto is the obvious choice but wondering how those of you who went 120mm are getting on? Head angle too slack? Broken frame from excessive stress on the head tube? Or just a slightly more aggressive downhill stance and a bit more travel?

    Anyone tried the Manitou Mastodon? Looks nice but pricey, especially in the UK.

  21. #421
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    You're only talking about adding a degree or so (or taking it away) in HTA. Somewhere in the ~68 range. You'd still be a long way from what I'd call slack. The bikes are built beefy, and considering the abuse I've put mine through I can't imagine you'd have any significant trouble with the 120 in either the Bluto or the Mastodon. Don't count on any warranty support if something goes awry, but I don't see that happening. Haven't ridden the Mastodon, but everything I've read & heard has all been favorable. Whether or not it's worth the premium is in the eye of the "beer holder".

  22. #422
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    Got my Big Jon a couple of months back and did a light bikepacking trip around Lednice (CZ) while it was stock.

    New Scott fat bike: Big Jon-p1020674_touch.jpg

    Genuinely pleasant ride yes still decided to go crazy on this and replaced everything but the frameset and headset. with 4.8 JJ tubeless this whole thing weights 13.8 Kg and rides great.

    New Scott fat bike: Big Jon-p1020880_touch.jpg

  23. #423
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    Cool bike looks good in blue

    What do you think of the wheels and is that a Tioga Spyder saddle?

  24. #424
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    I quite like those wheels. Lighter, nice looking and Sram XD adapter included in case I want to switch to 10-50t cassette. They run tubeless with 20" inner tube instead of tape. Compared to factory those wheels without tube/tire save about 800g.
    The saddle is actually Vertu Spyder but regardless it is the best saddle I had so far.

  25. #425
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    Hi
    Has anyone tried a 120mm fork on the Big Jon? Looking at the Mastodon Ext 120mm or 100mm Thanks

  26. #426
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    I put a deposit on a xl big jon. I have til jan 3rd to pay it off. Got it for $1200 us. Not bad. I ride a trek stache 29+ now, but i might take the deposit and upgrade to a farley 7 since i landed a ton of work for nov and dec. (Self employed). But even if i dont upgrade, the big jon will be fine for the 4 months i ride it.

  27. #427
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    Hi
    For those of you who changed forks on the Scott Big Jon, did you remove the crown race from the stock fork and install it on the new fork or get a new bottom headset bearing with new crown race. Don't want to remove the stock crown race only to find out that it won't fit the new fork because the inner diameter of the stock crown race is a weird size. Thanks

  28. #428
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    Although the head tube is tapered the standard rigid forks are straight 1.125" with a collar on the crown to take them out to 1.5". The crown race is a standard tapered steerer race although predictably it's not the greatest piece of engineering and you may wish to replace it with a split race.

  29. #429
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    Got a Big Jon last spring and have had a blast riding it this winter. Great alternative when the skiing's not great. We've got some new groomed singletrack snow trails that have really made the sport more fun.

    Has anyone tried a 29" wheelset on this for summer riding? Thinking of mostly gravel roads and maybe some easy singletrack, 29x3" tires.

  30. #430
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    If it's any help to anyone I went ahead with the 120mm Bluto. Raised the front quite a bit, especially uncompressed and when I first looked at it I suspected I may have made a mistake. I needn't have worried. The fork obviously does all the stuff you would expect, absorbs bumps, drops etc but the thing I am actually most pleased about is the change in geometry. The higher front end feels much more reassuring on the downs and while not ideal for climbing is perfectly fine of you get forward on the saddle a bit. The biggest, and most unexpected benefit is the steering. Gone is the feeling of riding in a permanent rut and having to plan direction changes in advance. It now feels light and responsive and ready to drop into a turn. To be clear is is not that flipping from side to side thing you get with super-slack downhill geometry but just a nice responsive feel.

    FWIW I've also gone 1 x 11, tubeless, fitted SLX brakes, dropper post and put on wider race face bars. It has gone from a pootle about in the woods bike to a creditable trail machine. Very happy.

  31. #431
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    Quote Originally Posted by panchosdad View Post
    Has anyone tried a 29" wheelset on this for summer riding? Thinking of mostly gravel roads and maybe some easy singletrack, 29x3" tires.
    https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/ne...l#post12747070

  32. #432
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lookbiker View Post
    Hi
    Has anyone tried a 120mm fork on the Big Jon? Looking at the Mastodon Ext 120mm or 100mm Thanks
    My friend has one, says itís a game changer.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails New Scott fat bike: Big Jon-29fafbb9-e60f-4aa1-b27f-c008b926c59d.jpg  

    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    Nothing to see here, move along folks.

  33. #433
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    Hey guys... old thread, but I figured I'd bring a little life to it. I recently picked up a Big Jon from a friend and decided to rebuild it. I stripped it down to the bare frame and started over with better quality components. It totally rips now! The stock Big Jon was pretty good (if not a little heavy) with the exception of the brakes and no dropper.

    Headset: Canecreek Forty
    Stem/Bars: RaceFace Aeffect / RaceFace Next carbon
    Brakes: Shimano XT (upgraded rear to 180mm rotor to match front)
    Cranks: RaceFace Next R w/ 170mm spindle (I reduced from the stock 190mm spindle, flipped the chainring, and ended up with improved Q-factor and improved chainline!)
    BB: Wheels Manufacturing BSA 30
    Drivetrain: SRAM Eagle GX/X01 mix (1x conversion, ditched front derailleur)
    Wheelset: Industry Nine BigRig 845 (84.5mm internal, comes with tape, so easy to go tubeless!)
    Tires: Maxxis FBF / FBR 26x4.8"
    Dropper: BikeYoke Revive
    Rear Axle: Robert Axle Project (replaced QR axle with bolt on)

    Stock, with pedals, spare tube, and Schwalbe Jumbo Jims: 34.9 lbs
    Rebuild, with pedals, spare tube (and new frame bag): 32.8 lbs.

    Not a huge reduction in overall weight, but not bad considering I added a frame bag, dropper post, wider wheels, and much burlier tires. The tire change alone probably added over 1 lbs.

    New Scott fat bike: Big Jon-2019-02-24-10.43.58.jpgNew Scott fat bike: Big Jon-2019-03-04-13.07.58.jpgNew Scott fat bike: Big Jon-2019-03-04-13.22.38.jpg

  34. #434
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    Good job!

    Nice!

  35. #435
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    NOICE! Good thing you upgraded everything on it. Especially those stock wheels that came with it... those things were garbage! Pitty that you have to put another $2000+ into it (fancy wheels) in order to make a great bike. Good work though and you'll get to enjoy it. Now that most of the original marginal scott/syncross stuff is off of it I'm sure it will ride for years!

  36. #436
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    BTW When you do replace the stock rear wheel because it is cheap and the formula hub will fail, I am able, from personal experience, to say that a 100mm wide rim and 4.8 inch JJ tire will "fit". You will have about 4mm clearance on the non drive side. The bike will roll fine with no mud build up. However, you will be forced to go 1xX on the drive train to avoid chain rub.

  37. #437
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    Hello Fatbikers!

    Been a fun thread to read and lots of awesome pictures

    I'm here because I need your help.

    I have a Scott Big Jon 2019 (image at the bottom).

    I also have a road bike. Both my road bike and my fatbike came with 175 mm crank arms.

    I'm new to biking (~1 year) and a few months back when cycling (road or fatbike) I got some knee pain, not bad, but still something that's not supposed to happen. I read on about knee pain from cycling and learned about if the saddle position is to high or to low (or to forward/backward), it can lead to different kinds of knee problems. I also learned about doing a bikefit.

    So I did a bikefit, they put the saddle a little higher. I tried that for a while, and it definitely helped. But it was like I needed to put the saddle even higher, but then I wouldn't be able to reach the pedals.

    I then read about crank arm length, and that some people (does not seem to matter that much to most) could greatly benefit from changing to shorter crank arms, if they are experiencing knee problems.

    With a shorter crank arm you will be able to put the saddle higher. Which will lead to a slightly less bent knee resulting in lower pressure for your knees.

    So I tried swithing from 175 mm to 170 mm to 165 mm on my road bike, and the knee problems almost went away over night after using 165 mm.

    On the road bike it was easy to change to shorter crank arms, I just had to buy the same crankset (Shimano) but with shorter crank arms, easy.

    Here comes what I need help with

    Now the fatbike on the other hand, it does not seem as easy to change to shorter crank arms.

    From Scott's homepage you can get this info about 'Scott Big Jon 2019':
    https://www.scott-sports.com/us/en/p...t-big-jon-bike

    Crankset
    --------------------------
    Race Face RXC Double 36x22 T / Chainline 74.8mm


    BB-Set
    --------------------------
    Race Face BSA 100mm


    I tried to find 'Race Face RXC' crankset, but could not find much 'RXC' (Ride XC?), most sites said something like "This item is discontinued and no longer available". So I started looking at other cranksets that Race Face have.

    If you filter by 'Fat Bike' they only list 'NEXT SL G4' and 'Next R' and neither come in 165 mm, only 170 mm. I want 165 mm.

    So I tried searching for other Race Face cranksets that might work.

    I'm still confused about all different standards/sizes. Which is why I need help I guess.

    Abount spindle sizes there's 24 mm / 30 mm (diameter?) and 170 mm / 190 mm etc (length?).
    And then it is the bottom bracket, from specs I have? 'Race Face BSA 100mm' whatever exactly that means.

    So I need to find a crankset with 165 mm crank arms that will fit my Scott Big Jon.
    At the same time I want to convert to 1x10 (remove front derailleur).

    Spindle size, I'm not sure what I have, 24 mm or 30 mm?, maybe both will work but I need a compatible bottom bracket?
    From reading a previous post it seems that the spindle length is 190 mm but that it may be possible to go down to 170 mm with 1x10 to get a better q-factor?


    Race Face Turbine:
    ------------------------------------
    I seem to have found fatbike specific for Turbine:
    RACE FACE Crank Set Turbine CINCH System FAT 190 black 2018 170 mm
    https://r2-bike.com/RACE-FACE-Crank-...ck-2018-170-mm

    Unfortunately Turbine does not come in 165 mm crank arms.


    Race Face Aeffect:
    ------------------------------------
    I found this:
    Race Face Aeffect Cinch Cranks
    https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/...h-crank-806940

    BB Spindle Interface: 24mm EXI

    Is it even a spindle included, what length?
    Or do I need to buy a spindle as well.

    I found this Race Face spindle:

    CINCH SPINDLE KIT 100MM
    ------------------------------------------------------
    Cinch Spindle and hardware for Fat bikes (170/177mm and 190/197mm rear spacing) BSA 100mm, BB124/121, PF30 100mm.
    Fits: NextSL, NextSL G4, Turbine Cinch
    https://www.raceface.com/products/de...ndle-kit-100mm
    and
    https://www.raceface.com/products/de...ndle-kit-190mm

    It says that it only fits "NextSL, NextSL G4, Turbine Cinch" which none comes in 165 mm. Still, I can't see why this spindle could not work for other cranks, like Aeffect or Atlas.?


    Race Face Atlas:
    ------------------------------------
    Atlas seem to have a spindle size of 30 mm. And Aeffect 24 mm? So what do I have?, lol?

    I think that the Race Face Cinch system looks nice


    I also found SRAM and HOPE crankset, but I'm not sure if I need to change bottombracket or something then?


    HOPE Crank EVO Fatbike Crankset FAT 120 mm black 165 mm
    ------------------------------------
    Compatibility Bottom Bracket: BSA, BB92, BB30 Pressfit (Pf30)
    https://r2-bike.com/HOPE-Crank-EVO-F...m-black-165-mm


    SRAM GX Eagle Fat5 GXP Chainset
    ------------------------------------
    Speeds: 11/12
    BB Compatibility: GXP 100mm/PF GXP 121mm
    BB Spindle Interface: 24mm
    https://www.wiggle.co.uk/sram-gx-eag...-gxp-chainset/

    Does this not work with 10 speed, why?

    A review on wiggle said:
    " Shame this didnít fit it says in the Description for 190/197mm mines a 190mm rear dropouts the spindle length is 150mm I need 170mm my bike is a felt dd30 apart from that very nice crank and fast delivery "

    If the spindle length really is 150mm on that SRAM GX Eagle Fat5, then I guess it's too short for my bike.



    Sorry for the long post, just trying to provide as much information as possible.

    So overall my problem is:

    1. I want to change from 175 mm crank arms to 165 mm crank arms and I'm not sure what I have to buy (crank sets / arms, bottom bracket?, spindle?, spacers? etc) that is also compatible with my bike.
    2. At the same time I also want to convert to 1x10 if possible, 165 mm crank arms is first priority though.




    Thank you!


    https://i.imgur.com/8grOrZJ.jpg

    New Scott fat bike: Big Jon-img_20190513_162124.jpg

  38. #438
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    SRAM makes a 165mm fat bike crankset.
    https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pro...-cnc-chainring

    And you'd use that with a dub bottom bracket like this one.
    https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pro...aded-mtb-100mm

    I'm not sure about using a 10 speed chain with it, but that's the only 165mm fat crankset I found on my quick search.

    As for your knee pain, the wider q-factor of the Big Jon could also be a problem, I find that if I have any knee issues they get exacerbated on the Big Jon because of the much wider stance.

  39. #439
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    I'm with MAGAIVER, I think that part of your issue is the q-factor. That said, if you've done the fit etc. and got everything else dialed and it seems like 165 is the way to go then the SRAM is your best bet. Fortunately JensonUSA allows you to filter by shell width and arm length. While you're at it, you might consider making the switch to an 11sp setup in the process. Not required certainly, but it gives you some added gearing. I'm still on the stock cranks but I switched to a 1x with a narrow-wide ring, and then upgraded to an XT 1x11 setup out back it's been an awesome setup.

    https://www.jensonusa.com/Cranksets-...hellSize=100mm

  40. #440
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    Measure the amount of space available on the bike. Problem with 1x specific cranks is that many have quite little clearance for a real 197mm rear. SRAM fat cranks are all around 175-182mm between the crank arms.

    RF Atlas works with a cinch fatbike spindle. With the narrower 169mm spindle there is 185mm of clearance between the cranks (175mm cranks). Just fitted one in my fatbike, 185mm was the absolute minimum it could take (180 clearance + 5mm to flex around).

    All of these options mean you need to change also the bottom bracket.

    Edit: looking at the modified big Jon earlier in the thread one could assume any SRAM fat crank will fit as RF Next have less clearance. So maybe easiest is to go with some SRAM Fat5 crank and a suitable BB (dub/gxp).

  41. #441
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    Thanks for the replies!

    Yeah the wider q-factor is possible making it worse, but I still need 165 mm crank arms. And it's a plus if I can reduce the q-factor at the same time.


    I tried to find more info about the SRAM GX Eagleô DUBô Crankset
    https://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/fc-gx-1-b1

    I could not find any info about spindle length?

    A reviewer of that crankset on wiggle.co.uk said that the spindle is only 150 mm. If that's the case, isn't it too short then?
    Source:
    https://www.wiggle.co.uk/sram-gx-eag...-gxp-chainset/

    Another thing about the SRAM one, it says it's for SPEEDS 11/12. I have 10-speed and don't want to upgrade to 1x11 at this moment (maybe later). Will my 10-speed chain even work with that SRAM crankset?



    Quote Originally Posted by MAGAIVER View Post
    SRAM makes a 165mm fat bike crankset.
    https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pro...-cnc-chainring

    And you'd use that with a dub bottom bracket like this one.
    https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/pro...aded-mtb-100mm

    I'm not sure about using a 10 speed chain with it, but that's the only 165mm fat crankset I found on my quick search.
    Thanks, yeah I may go with that SRAM crank then, if it's really compatible for my bike.



    Quote Originally Posted by Kingfisher2011 View Post
    I'm still on the stock cranks but I switched to a 1x with a narrow-wide ring, and then upgraded to an XT 1x11 setup out back it's been an awesome setup.
    Sounds great! I probably want to switch to 1x11 as well, but not now.



    Quote Originally Posted by solisti View Post
    RF Atlas works with a cinch fatbike spindle. With the narrower 169mm spindle there is 185mm of clearance between the cranks (175mm cranks). Just fitted one in my fatbike, 185mm was the absolute minimum it could take (180 clearance + 5mm to flex around).
    Okey that may be an option then.

    Quote Originally Posted by solisti View Post
    All of these options mean you need to change also the bottom bracket.
    I don't get it, I have raceface now, shouldn't there be a raceface crankset where I don't need a new bottombracket? But anyway, it's probably no problem to change bottombracket.

    Quote Originally Posted by solisti View Post
    SRAM fat cranks are all around 175-182mm between the crank arms.

    Edit: looking at the modified big Jon earlier in the thread one could assume any SRAM fat crank will fit as RF Next have less clearance. So maybe easiest is to go with some SRAM Fat5 crank and a suitable BB (dub/gxp).
    Okey, then it's only the problem if it will work with a 10-speed chain


    So I'm not sure what I need to measure. I took some pics.

    https://i.imgur.com/NwwPLz4.jpg
    New Scott fat bike: Big Jon-signal-attachment-2019-09-19-190739_001.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/zOdoDOk.jpg
    New Scott fat bike: Big Jon-signal-attachment-2019-09-19-190739_002.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/I80iALR.jpg
    New Scott fat bike: Big Jon-signal-attachment-2019-09-19-190739_003.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/esH0cQM.jpg
    New Scott fat bike: Big Jon-untitled.jpg

  42. #442
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    Quote Originally Posted by saturnus View Post
    Thanks for the replies!

    I don't get it, I have raceface now, shouldn't there be a raceface crankset where I don't need a new bottombracket? But anyway, it's probably no problem to change bottombracket.

    [/ATTACH]
    Well if there isn't a crankset in the length you seek with 24mm axle/spindle that you currently have, you'll need a new BB also. Don't know if those exist...

  43. #443
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    Check for SRAM frame fitting info: https://www.servicearchive.sram.com/..._mtb_ffs_0.pdf

    Those current cranks have a q-factor of about 220mm and there is maybe 195mm room between the cranks. It seems there is plenty of clearance for a narrower crankset.

  44. #444
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    Quote Originally Posted by solisti View Post
    Well if there isn't a crankset in the length you seek with 24mm axle/spindle that you currently have, you'll need a new BB also. Don't know if those exist...
    Okey right


    Quote Originally Posted by solisti View Post
    Check for SRAM frame fitting info: https://www.servicearchive.sram.com/..._mtb_ffs_0.pdf

    Those current cranks have a q-factor of about 220mm and there is maybe 195mm room between the cranks. It seems there is plenty of clearance for a narrower crankset.
    Thanks!
    According to that document the Fatbike GX Eagle have a 206 mm q-factor. Great info, it looks like it will work. I will do some more measurements after work.

    And about 11/12 speeds, I don't get how a 1x setup only support some speeds, maybe the chainring is different somehow, I don't know, but if so I could just change to a different direct mount chainring I guess.


    Thanks for the help, greatly appreciated!!

  45. #445
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    Quote Originally Posted by saturnus View Post

    Thanks!
    According to that document the Fatbike GX Eagle have a 206 mm q-factor. Great info, it looks like it will work. I will do some more measurements after work.

    And about 11/12 speeds, I don't get how a 1x setup only support some speeds, maybe the chainring is different somehow, I don't know, but if so I could just change to a different direct mount chainring I guess.


    Thanks for the help, greatly appreciated!!
    You're welcome.

    I would guess 10 speed chain will work just fine. If not you can run 11-speed chain in your 10 speed setup...

    Have been running 9 speed chain with 10-11 speed compatible chain ring with out any issues... But have no experience with SRAM cranks.

  46. #446
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    Quote Originally Posted by solisti View Post
    You're welcome.

    I would guess 10 speed chain will work just fine. If not you can run 11-speed chain in your 10 speed setup...

    Have been running 9 speed chain with 10-11 speed compatible chain ring with out any issues... But have no experience with SRAM cranks.
    Cool okey, I'll just have to try then.

  47. #447
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    Very happy with the result !!

    New Scott fat bike: Big Jon-img_20190927_170332.jpg

  48. #448
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    Quote Originally Posted by saturnus View Post
    Very happy with the result !!

    HI Saturnus.
    I have a GX FAT5 crankset on a Mukluk.
    But i want to put it on my Felt DD Large frame size.
    It has 165mm crank arms.
    Did you have to put a few BB spacers so the crank arms would clear the chainstays?
    Thanks Tom.

  49. #449
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    Quote Originally Posted by tablatom View Post
    HI Saturnus.
    I have a GX FAT5 crankset on a Mukluk.
    But i want to put it on my Felt DD Large frame size.
    It has 165mm crank arms.
    Did you have to put a few BB spacers so the crank arms would clear the chainstays?
    Thanks Tom.
    Hi.
    I did not use any extra spacers.

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