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  1. #201
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    The "in store" price is always cheaper than the website price, which includes shipping.
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  2. #202
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    Quote Originally Posted by lpranal View Post
    You're right. I actually measured them last night as I was measuring to make sure I can put these on in the summer. I think with the slim 29's this thing will actually be a great year-round commuter. I don't know why I thought they were 80mm, but I edited my post so as not to spread misinformation.

    Out of curiosity, what's the widest tire you think would fit without clearance issues? I was looking at studded tires and most of them are >4"
    I can also confirm. I measured 57mm. Close enough to what DeeEight got.

    If you stick with this rim, I think you could go with a much wider tire. I just swapped tires from a 80mm rim, and on that rim the tire was significantly wider, but slimmed to the width of the Kenda tire that comes on the XC00 when I installed it on the slimmer 57mm rim. Personally, I'd go with a wider rim first.

    Since our rims are so narrow, I'm tempted to try some near fat tires even if it messes up the gearing compared to 29's. That's going to wait for next summer though since I have a three sets of tires to burn through.

  3. #203
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeeEight View Post
    Headtube is tapered zero stack ball bearings headset with a reducer race on the fork crown for the 1 1/8 straight steerer fork. You'd need a new fork crown race to fit a tapered steerer tube fat fork as well as a different front wheel (since the stock front dropout spacing is 121mm according to my digital caliper).
    Really good info that I should have read more carefully before. Got a new wheel that I'm trying to install, and I shouldn't have been surprised that it doesn't want to fit because you said the dropout is narrow. Okay, I have a new fork that I wanted to install anyway, but I can't install it yet because I need to order that 1.5 to 1-1/8 crown reducer race you mentioned since I can't take my old one off. I'm really hoping I can find that part in a local shop so I can finish and ride it this weekend.

  4. #204
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    Quote Originally Posted by leaftye View Post
    Really good info that I should have read more carefully before. Got a new wheel that I'm trying to install, and I shouldn't have been surprised that it doesn't want to fit because you said the dropout is narrow. Okay, I have a new fork that I wanted to install anyway, but I can't install it yet because I need to order that 1.5 to 1-1/8 crown reducer race you mentioned since I can't take my old one off. I'm really hoping I can find that part in a local shop so I can finish and ride it this weekend.
    best of luck to you, but after taking to two different bike shops and searching on my own I wasn't able to find anything to fit a tapered fork. The closest I was able to get was a Cane Creek 10 EC49/40... which ended up being too small. Problem is the weird size of the bottom of the headtube is closer to 50mm than 49mm, from what I can tell (and several posts to a couple different forums) nobody makes headsets that size and your only options would be either custom headset cup (Probably somewhat pricey) or reaming out the tube to 52mm.

    If you do find something that works with tapered forks definitely let me know, as I still have an extra tapered fork just sitting around that would be a nice upgrade from the heavy cromoly one I'm using (Fatback)

  5. #205
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    The fork I was trying to install has a straight steerer. Went to the shop and they didn't have the part, and unfortunately couldn't remove the crown race either. The crown race appears to have a fillet where the bearings rest, but the crown reducers I'm finding online all have a chamfer. So what's next? Really wishing I had access to a cnc lathe right now.

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by lpranal View Post
    The closest I was able to get was a Cane Creek 10 EC49/40... which ended up being too small. Problem is the weird size of the bottom of the headtube is closer to 50mm than 49mm, from what I can tell (and several posts to a couple different forums) nobody makes headsets that size and your only options would be either custom headset cup (Probably somewhat pricey) or reaming out the tube to 52mm.
    I thought I read someone made a shim to make this or something similar fit?

  7. #207
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    I was able to remove the crown race (carefully) with a razor blade and a hammer, and install it onto my new fork with a pvc pipe and mallet. The shop should be able to remove it for you and transfer it to your new fork - that should be all you need to do since the stock fork is pretty standard apart from the hub widths. The only reason I was trying to replace the reducer was to try install a tapered fork.

    (disclaimer, I have last year's 'model'... it doesn't appear they changed anything, but as always YMMV).

  8. #208
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    Quote Originally Posted by MozFat View Post
    I thought I read someone made a shim to make this or something similar fit?
    I made a shim out of a cookie tin, and that was enough to make it 'fit', but after reading about all the reasons why this might not be the best idea, I opted to just use a straight steerer fork (much easier and more reliable). If one were really motivated to go the tapered route, your best bet would probably be to ream the lower headtube out to 52mm so you can use a standard lower headset (probably external type)

  9. #209
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    Look the frames/bikes are made by Giant, and as I already said they're essentially the same as what they sell under their Momentum brand. OBVIOUSLY Giant is not going to make a frame that takes a headset size that nobody else makes a headset for. If you want to know for sure what the exact headset dimensions are, you need only remove the bottom cup from the frame and measure the inside diameter of the headtube with a set of digital calipers. ANY competent bike shop should have the tool to pop out the headset cups. They're a zero stack / internal headset and Giant has been building frames with that style for about 18 years now. Worst case you need to order a new complete lower cup assembly to fit a tapered steerer fork and guess what, Cane creek (among others) sell just the lower cup/bearing/race assemblies that way. Cane Creek doesn't offer a ZS49 cup with 40 race but does offer the EC49 cup and 40 race. FSA on the other hand, does offer a ZS49/40 bottom headset called the Gravity 2, which is a ZS44/28.6 upper and ZS49/40 lower and in fact the lower bearing is a caged ball bearing while the upper is a cartridge bearing.

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  10. #210
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeeEight View Post
    Look the frames/bikes are made by Giant, and as I already said they're essentially the same as what they sell under their Momentum brand. OBVIOUSLY Giant is not going to make a frame that takes a headset size that nobody else makes a headset for. If you want to know for sure what the exact headset dimensions are, you need only remove the bottom cup from the frame and measure the inside diameter of the headtube with a set of digital calipers. ANY competent bike shop should have the tool to pop out the headset cups. They're a zero stack / internal headset and Giant has been building frames with that style for about 18 years now. Worst case you need to order a new complete lower cup assembly to fit a tapered steerer fork and guess what, Cane creek (among others) sell just the lower cup/bearing/race assemblies that way. Cane Creek doesn't offer a ZS49 cup with 40 race but does offer the EC49 cup and 40 race. FSA on the other hand, does offer a ZS49/40 bottom headset called the Gravity 2, which is a ZS44/28.6 upper and ZS49/40 lower and in fact the lower bearing is a caged ball bearing while the upper is a cartridge bearing.

    https://www.bike24.com/p231161.html
    The EC49 / 40 lower absolutely does not work, the diameter is too narrow and the cup won't stay inside the headtube. The inner diameter of the headtube bottom is 50mm: https://i.imgur.com/uddwRPd

    The Zero Stack might work, but I haven't tried it. If someone wants to try it and post their results it would probably be helpful!

  11. #211
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    Quote Originally Posted by lpranal View Post
    The Zero Stack might work, but I haven't tried it. If someone wants to try it and post their results it would probably be helpful!
    I tried the Cane Creek ZS49, nope. Its about 1.5mm too small, it doesn't even touch the sides.

    I am also trying to find a fork solution. I need a suspension fork for the Northrock XC00 I have. I checked the fork, its 1-1/8 straight, so I ordered another fork that is totally standard to replace it. Thought I could just pull that crown race off, but I cannot see how to remove it. It looks like its one piece cast into the fork. I didn't see a way to remove it, but maybe its just firmly on there and I need to try harder. It has many ridges to it also, I cant tell where to put the blade in. Its got more levels than all the other crown races I have seen.

    I have blasted the internet and don't see any similar size for this tube. The 49mm lower cups are clearly too small, and 52 would be too big it seems, so I am confused.

    Another thing I see noted wrong, at least on my bike is, the front drop outs are 110mm. I wanted a standard 135mm, so I got rims and a hub all ready and its all a plan wasted on this crown race that nobody has a clue about. I talked to Cane Creek, they just scratched their heads and said, no idea. When they heard the zs49 didn't fit and a 55mm would not, they said, nothing they sold would work.

    I notice FSA makes the only thing that looks remotely similar. My only problem with their Orbit 1.5 to 1-1/8 reducer is, the pics show 26 ball bearings. I know my lower has 27, sooooo….. No earlthy idea what Giant put in this bike, but it is a crazy odd setup. 110mm front dropouts with 170mm rear is NOT standard. For a fat bike, 135mm front and 175mm rear is standard. So, this bike is not an upgrade friendly layout.

    lpranal , did you say you removed the crown race from the stock xc00 with a razer blade and put it on another fork? If that is possible, I will make it my mission to pull that off. Where did you put the blade?

  12. #212
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    Finally got it off.

    I finally got the crown race off the Northrock. It just took a razor blade and some patience. So, its removable after all. I could not find a replacement race that matched. It would be nice to be able to swap my old fork back on.

  13. #213
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    I'm close to giving up on this bike and replacing it with something else. The nonstandard measurements are going to be an ongoing pita, and I want something that's going to be easy to mod and repair for a long time.

  14. #214
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    Finally

    Quote Originally Posted by leaftye View Post
    I'm close to giving up on this bike.
    I have mine sorted finally. Its mostly changed out. Not thrilled with the fork, but I need suspension. Its now an electric bike, 750watt hub motor. I built a little cage for the battery and controller to hide behind. Lots of things swapped out. The front fork is at least standard now, at 135mm. Rims are 80mm wide, which still fits within the rear. ARMA vintage motorcycle fender, the front isn't on in the pic, but I have one. The 152mm crank arms are replaced with 175mm shimanos. The gearing is different with a narrow wide 32t chainring and the freewheel is different with a taller first gear The rear being 170mm may be the biggest issue. I got the bike just to bike to the beach, but I cannot leave well enough alone.

    New Low at Costco-2018-06-08-northrock-ebike-img_3488.jpgNew Low at Costco-2018-06-08-northrock-ebike-img_3493.jpg

  15. #215
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    Is that this motor? If it's Luna's kit, you should be at 1300 watts peak with
    a 52 volt battery. Nice setup. What tires are you running?

  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by leaftye View Post
    Is that this motor? If it's Luna's kit, you should be at 1300 watts peak with
    a 52 volt battery. Nice setup. What tires are you running?
    Yes, its the Bafang 750w geared hub motor from Luna. You cannot buy that motor in a kit from luna. They are always out of stock on that motor in a kit form. Wiring up a controller is a big pain where you have to guess at the hall and phase wires, but its not that bad. I am running a 48v system. I had a battery from another bike, so I have two bikes and one battery. I am pushing 35 amps through the sine wave controller, which is maybe a little much for the motor, but I think it can take it, and I don't just leave it pegged at full throttle. In the riding I have done, it hasn't even felt warm yet. Luna sells a 40 amp cyclone controller, which worked fine but was a square wave controller I think. The sine wave controller I got from China has even more torque due to the efficiency of the sine wave signal, plus its quieter, and smoother.

    I didn't want a mid drive. There is something about being pulled around by the chain that I don't like. If I break a chain, I would be totally screwed. I also have a direct drive bike which is great, but cant do hills. This geared motor crushes hills, so I am really happy.

    The motor fits a 175mm rear axle. This bike has a 170mm rear dropout, but I am hoping that the slight spreading I have to do is going to be ok on the aluminum frame. I know they say don't do it, but its only a slight change to an already wide rear. There is a little risk of breaking the frame.

    The tires are the stock ones that come with the bike, kenda gigas. They looked sort of crushed up on the stock 50mm rims, so they look much better on the 80mm ones I put on there. I had to switch to a 36 hole spoke since I could not find an electric motor that was 32 holes. They make them, but they are very hard to get in the usa. I had a lot of bad luck with parts from China and gave up and only tried to buy stuff already in the USA.

    For the fork, I never have replaced one, so I figured I would go cheap and get a Chinese fork, and its just not great, but its really cheap at $100. Its a bit too stiff for what I want. I should have gotten the Luna Lander fork for $200.

    I had to give up motorcycles, because for me, motorcycle = hospital, so this keeps me away from motor bikes. I want it to look like a motor bike and when you cover up most of that center triangle, it starts to look different. Sondors really got that part right on their bike.

  17. #217
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    I wonder if they stopped selling the kit because of wheel build failures. Apparently the spokes were just slightly big enough to not be easily be pulled through the hub, and perhaps they had more than a few failures from that.

    35A sounds great. Which controller did you buy, and did you do any programming on the controller, such as tuning power delivery off the line?

    Yeah, the tires sure are squished on that narrow factory rim. How's the clearance now with that 80mm rim? Do you see much room for wider tires?

    I'm with you on the motorcycle thing too. Eventually I'll get an electric bike good enough to ditch my motorcycle. Having a street bike isn't worth the risk anymore, and I'd love to save gas exploring forest roads rather than using my Jeep. That's where an electric bike comes in. I've been looking hard at Luna's Sur Ron. It would greatly exceed my needs, and leans hard towards being a motorcycle, albeit a 50cc bike, and as you found, building up a fat bike costs much less. Maybe I'm getting old too. I've noticed a lot of retiree RV'rs have electric bikes.
    Last edited by leaftye; 06-10-2018 at 02:40 PM.

  18. #218
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    lpranal, you measured 50.1mm. Any chance you think you might have been off .5mm? If you were, then ZS50.6 should work for the bottom. Hopefully you were off because according to the fit calculator I'm looking at, that's over 3x the maximum interference for a force fit, and nearly 10x the maximum interference for an interference fit.

    So far I only see solutions for straight tubes, and leaves me screwed again because the one suitable headset I see for my fork with a 30.1mm shoulder, the Neco H100, doesn't seem to be for sale anywhere.

  19. #219
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    Quote Originally Posted by leaftye View Post
    lpranal, you measured 50.1mm. Any chance you think you might have been off .5mm? If you were, then ZS50.6 should work for the bottom. Hopefully you were off because according to the fit calculator I'm looking at, that's over 3x the maximum interference for a force fit, and nearly 10x the maximum interference for an interference fit.

    So far I only see solutions for straight tubes, and leaves me screwed again because the one suitable headset I see for my fork with a 30.1mm shoulder, the Neco H100, doesn't seem to be for sale anywhere.
    It's possible the zs50.6 would fit, my caliper is just a cheapie from harbor freight. It'd be pretty easy to shave off a bit of material if you needed to with emery cloth or a rounded file. I honestly didn't even know that size existed when I ordered the cane creek lower and I would have tried that before the EC49.

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    Quote Originally Posted by leaftye View Post
    I wonder if they stopped selling the kit because of wheel build failures. Apparently the spokes were just slightly big enough to not be easily be pulled through the hub, and perhaps they had more than a few failures from that.

    35A sounds great. Which controller did you buy, and did you do any programming on the controller, such as tuning power delivery off the line?

    Yeah, the tires sure are squished on that narrow factory rim. How's the clearance now with that 80mm rim? Do you see much room for wider tires?

    I'm with you on the motorcycle thing too. Eventually I'll get an electric bike good enough to ditch my motorcycle. Having a street bike isn't worth the risk anymore, and I'd love to save gas exploring forest roads rather than using my Jeep. That's where an electric bike comes in. I've been looking hard at Luna's Sur Ron. It would greatly exceed my needs, and leans hard towards being a motorcycle, albeit a 50cc bike, and as you found, building up a fat bike costs much less. Maybe I'm getting old too. I've noticed a lot of retiree RV'rs have electric bikes.
    The hub says you should use 12g spokes from the Bafang Spec Sheet. I used 13/14 guage, which were a little more expensive. I would not use 14g. Luna says they cannot keep that motor in kit form in stock due to demand being so high. Bafang is the big hub motor maker, so its probably a solid motor.



    The controller I got from ifunmobi on ebay. I dont even use the display, no idea why people want the display. That controller doesnt have any speed controller settings. I am going to probably wire in a voltage reducer switch so I can cut it to half power. I find ebikes are all too jumpy. I have a switch on there, i just want to flick it to half power. I have to rig that up. I also have cruise control as a button, which is great. I think they are all made by the same maker. They all have the same wiring diagram. I did a huge climb and the motor was just a little warm and the controller was really hot. So, I will probably blow the controller first, which is fine by me, its the cheap link. You can get sine wave controllers for pretty cheap on ebay. I know luna sells Yuyang King. I had one of those, it was nice, but they are out of stock on the 40amp model.


    The clearance for the rims is still totally fine. The tires are still wider than those rims. I was afraid my fenders wouldnt clear, but they have plenty of room.

  21. #221
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    12g spokes could work safely if the tips are wide enough, and 14g spokes could be unsafe if the tips are too narrow. I doubt many wheel builders bother checking those diameters, and usually it works out.

    I sent the seller a question asking if their 48V controller works with a 52V battery. Some controllers are programmable so that you can get a soft start. Tweaking the programming could help with the jumpiness and prolong the gears in the motor without giving up top end power.

    This Yuyang King controller on Aliexpress lists a bluetooth adapter separately. That may make your controller programmable and allow you to tweak its power characteristics.

    That's good that there's still room to go wider.

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    Quote Originally Posted by leaftye View Post

    This Yuyang King controller on Aliexpress lists a bluetooth adapter separately. That may make your controller programmable and allow you to tweak its power characteristics.

    That's good that there's still room to go wider.
    I had the Yuyang Kind 40amp sine controller. It was probably the best I have seen. I had the Bluetooth interface. I had a crippled version that had no PAS, so I could not switch to Eco mode, which retarded power and delayed throttle, which was perfect. I could do it through Bluetooth, but I don't want my phone constantly connected with an app just to switch modes. It also had no cruise control, which I need. I could not find the 40 amp for sale in single units anywhere. You had to buy 10 or more. The one in the link is a massive 80amp controller. You also have to watch out because most are square wave. When they don't say, its a square wave usually. 40 amps was a tick too big, so the 35amp I have now is probably the most amps the motor wants. Its a lot of power. I climbs hills well.

    This is the 60 amp version yuyang king, the one I sent back was 40amp, 12 fet, but the same features. I got mine from china, not luna. Luna used to carry the 40amp model:
    https://lunacycle.com/60-amp-36-72v-...le-controller/

    I am pretty sure I can put 2 resistors in the voltage regulated throttle to get half the voltage that the throttle sends out. I can wire a 3 position switch to give me a couple options of throttle power. That will give me a 50% reduction, or whatever I resist it to. I have to ask my electrician friend, but it looks easy to rig up. Some controllers allow a 3 position speed limit, but I don't care about speed, I care about the amps really. Also, they have weird long press cruise options. I just want to hit a button and get it. The ifunmodi controller does everything by switch with the option of using a display or not. Same as Risun motor, which is probably the same controller. The throttle has enough increments in it, so just changing the voltage it outputs should do it, I think. That's next, but its a fun bike.

    I think it looks a little better than one I can buy, much cheaper. Volt bike, Juiced bike, radrover, sondors...they are similar. Lithium Cycles just came out with a $950 bike, that looks like fun. Great price. I imagine they will sell a lot of those.

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    I'm tempted to throw some of that hub motor coolant/oil. It should allow greater power levels. Someone else allow sells heat sink fins that wrap around the motor. It'd be fun to see how far the motor could be pushed.

    I'm with you on not wanting to need my phone for daily riding. The bluetooth programming is great, but it needs to be able to use external controls for things like power levels and cruise control.

    Why do you use cruise control? At times I've thought it'd be nice, but I don't see using it for long stretches. Usually coasting is long enough for me to get a drink, snack and rest my hands. I can't sit on the bike that long, so I take frequent breaks. If I really wanted one, I'd get a grip throttle like a motorcycle and use the friction grip thing I have on my motorcycle for "cruise control". It makes more sense for me on a motorcycle since I'll ride it for hours at a time. Actually, two hours at a time because the tank is small and that's about when I need to fill it back up. That'd kill my wrist if I couldn't use the cruise control to shake life back into my hand.

    That Super 73 looks nice. I'd love to put a mid drive motor and a bigger battery in the frame and still have plenty of room for storage. It has a low maximum load that looks like it'll be a deal killer. Even if I was still 130 pounds, it wouldn't take much to approach the 200 pound load of the $950 version.

    I called Costco and it looks like I can return mine at the warehouse without boxing it back up. I'll measure the headset and return it to stock before I take it back. If someone find out the ZS50.6 headset works, I may get another one and try again, although I'd also like to know where to get a replacement derailleur hanger. For now I'm tired of dealing with a bike that was built funny.

  24. #224
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    Quote Originally Posted by scstudios View Post
    110mm front dropouts with 170mm rear is NOT standard. For a fat bike, 135mm front and 175mm rear is standard. So, this bike is not an upgrade friendly layout.
    No fat frame is a 175mm rear. 170 actually was the first real standard adopted by most brands and most everyone was using it until the move to monster width tires a couple years ago brought about the 190 spacing, or to thru-axle rears which are either 177 or 197.

    As to the fork spacing...given that we have 135mm open dropouts, 135mm thru-axle, 150mm open, 150 thru-axle, and both front and rear hub disc offsets as well to deal with for fat forks already... that they spec'ed something different hardly surprised me all that much when I first reported it FOUR MONTHS AGO in this thread. They likely took the view that since they could purchase a 110mm open dropout hub for less than a 135mm open dropout hub, that they then ordered forks to match that instead.

    As to finding the NECO headset thats ZS50.6 lower cup... that took me eight seconds...

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-25-Head-T...smLacte9yfsFSg
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    I misspoke in my last reply. What I said in my earlier post about the H100 is what I need for the fork I wanted to install that has the 30mm crown race. The ebay one might work for others though.

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    Quote Originally Posted by leaftye View Post
    Why do you use cruise control? At times I've thought it'd be nice, but I don't see using it for long stretches.
    I am 6 miles from the beach on a long straight flat river road. I use the cruise there for that long stretch - hit the cruise button and relax. Sometimes there is an event at the beach and I am more interested in getting there. I don't want to hold my thumb on that throttle the whole time. Its even worse with a twist throttle. Its weird because I don't remember not liking motorcycle throttles on long rides. I didn't think anything of cruise until it came with the first bike I had, then I used it constantly. Its one of those things that depend on your type of riding. As soon as I exit that trial, I don't need it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DeeEight View Post
    No fat frame is a 175mm rear. 170 actually was the first real standard
    I wonder why Bafang chose 175mm for their dropout width of the rear fat hub. That motor is in practically all the fat tire ebikes now. I wonder if those frames are 175mm dropouts or the bigger size.

  28. #228
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    I found this on ali express...

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Risk...805805677.html

    This would be another simpler option to go to a tapered fork on these frames, that doesn't involve trying to find a race to match the existing headset bearings.
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  29. #229
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeeEight View Post
    I found this on ali express...
    Name seems appropriate.

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    Found it on ebay just searching for 44/50.6 and its $3 cheaper if you just want it in black...

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bicycle-Hea...gAAOSwl0VbEizi
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  31. #231
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    these were in stock at the new Thorncliffe Park location in Toronto.

    I saw them on the floor on opening day Tuesday
    Mike
    Toronto, Canada
    2017 Trek Farley 9.6
    2017 Diamondback Haanjo Trail Carbon
    2016 Scott Solace 10 Disc

  32. #232
    Doesntplaywellwithmorons!
    Reputation: DeeEight's Avatar
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    Ok it IS confirmed that the 50.6 lower cup dimension is correct as I got one of the RISK headsets off ebay (the other side of the cups say Riding is my ) and just installed it in my 2018 Northrock frame. Once I got the cup aligned properly it hammered in smoothly, and now there is a carbon fork with tapered steerer and thru-axle where the stock steel fork used to be.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bicycle-Hea...gAAOSwl0VbEizi
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  33. #233
    Doesntplaywellwithmorons!
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    I just discovered a new oddball detail about the Northrocks... while it IS a 170mm dropout spacing frame... its also assymetrical like some cooker and surly frames are. If you try and fit a 170mm rear wheel from just about any other fat bike, the rim sits too far to the right, and many tires larger than the stock Kenda's will make contact with the stays. Likewise if you take the back wheel from the Northrock and put it in another 170mm fat frame... the rim is offset to the left. So... to do a rear wheel swap, you need to re-dish the wheel to shift the rim over.

    Also...the front hub is a threaded axle with cup/cones affair, just like most conventional sealed hubs... and all you need to do to fit it to a 135mm fork is perform an axle swap and then re-dish the wheel. A 146mm axle from a shimano rear hub is what you'll want to use.
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  34. #234
    uhhhhhyea
    Reputation: lpranal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeeEight View Post
    I just discovered a new oddball detail about the Northrocks... while it IS a 170mm dropout spacing frame... its also assymetrical like some cooker and surly frames are. If you try and fit a 170mm rear wheel from just about any other fat bike, the rim sits too far to the right, and many tires larger than the stock Kenda's will make contact with the stays. Likewise if you take the back wheel from the Northrock and put it in another 170mm fat frame... the rim is offset to the left. So... to do a rear wheel swap, you need to re-dish the wheel to shift the rim over.

    Also...the front hub is a threaded axle with cup/cones affair, just like most conventional sealed hubs... and all you need to do to fit it to a 135mm fork is perform an axle swap and then re-dish the wheel. A 146mm axle from a shimano rear hub is what you'll want to use.
    Yeah that offset threw me off, once it's dished though you can fit some pretty decent sized tires.

    just curious how you go about taking the axle out. I didn't have any luck with the hubs on mine, even took it to a couple LBS and they were pretty sure it wasn't meant to come apart. Would have saved me a few $ as I had them swap a 135 hub to the stock wheels...

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