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  1. #1
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    Need Mongoose Kong Specs, Please.

    I'm looking to use the Mongoose Kong as a donor bike for a fat trike build. I've been reading the internet for 4 days and can't find much info on this bike's specifications.

    The project trike has 24" tires and they are 24" in diameter (same with my 26" bikes). However, with fat tires the diameter isn't as obvious. Since a fat bike 26x4 is roughly 29" in diameter, I'm assuming a 20x4 is roughly 23". BUT I CAN'T find a single source for the actual diameter of a 20x4 fat tire. Not from the bike companies or the tire companies and I think I've read everything google knows about the Mongoose Kong and the (barely) available 20x4 tires.

    I spent the day visiting local bike shops, Academy, even went to Walmart for the first time in 15 years just to measure kids fat bike tires. Didn't find much, nothing in 20x4. Academy had a 20x2.8? and it was almost 22" in diameter.

    Anyway, if anybody could measure the tire diameter and the head tube length or steerer length/configuration, I'd be delighted.

    I know Mongoose makes the Logan in 24", I'm pretty sure the steerer would be long enough for my trike, but I'm afraid 24x4 fat tires will make the trike too tippy, because the tires will be (I assume) closer to 27" in diameter. This trike is already tippy on the stock 24x1.95 with an OD of 24". On that note, if anybody has some insight on how tire size effects trike rideability I'd love to hear your thoughts.

    Finally, If I pull the trigger on the Kong, I'll have some spare parts available. If anybody needs anything, I'm ok with shipping it to you for the cost of the shipping.

  2. #2
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    Sorry, no direct knowledge but from:

    BikeCalc.com - How to calculate Bicycle Wheel Size

    a 20" schwinn wheel with a 2" tire is ~20.5". I would expect a 20" wheel with 4" tire to be ~24.5" tall.


    I found that a standard adult trike is indeed a bit tippy. The solution I found for my disabled son is a Sun recumbent trike. I have considered lacing up some fat rear wheels for when I connect it to the back of my bike via a gooseneck adapter that I have made.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueCheesehead View Post
    Sorry, no direct knowledge but from:

    BikeCalc.com - How to calculate Bicycle Wheel Size

    a 20" schwinn wheel with a 2" tire is ~20.5". I would expect a 20" wheel with 4" tire to be ~24.5" tall.


    I found that a standard adult trike is indeed a bit tippy. The solution I found for my disabled son is a Sun recumbent trike. I have considered lacing up some fat rear wheels for when I connect it to the back of my bike via a gooseneck adapter that I have made.
    Thank you, that helps confirm that I'm not crazy and that it is probable that a 20x4 Fat tire is closer to my 24x1.95 than a 24x4 would be. Thanks for the link. If I'm reading the table correctly a 20x4 is indeed about 24", depending on what flavor rim you pick. I apreciate your input.

    I'm thinking about just buying one (Mongoose Kong) blind (no heasdset/foark/steerer specs) and seeing if I can make it work. But it sure would be nice to have some info first so I'd know how much work I'm in for.

  4. #4
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    I posted a question on Amazon asking what is the actual diameter diameter of a Mongoose Kong 20x4 Tire:

    Pacific Cycle Customer Service, MANUFACTURER answered The actual outside diameter of the tires with air is 20". Thanks


    Also found this under the 20x4 Mongoose Fat Tire listing:

    What is the outside diameter of this tire? Total height.
    Answer: The outside diameter of this is 20" inflated. Thanks
    By Pacific Cycle Customer Service MANUFACTURER on April 20, 2018

    But I KNOW a 26x4 is ~29" and I measuered a Mongoose 24 plus and it was almost 22"

    I'm now asking the same question of the 24x4 and 26x4 versions of the Mongoose fat tire and see what answers I get. I suspect the person amswering the questions for Pacific wouldn't know a fat tire with both hands.

    I find it interesting that Pacific is selling directly through Amazon and answering thier own product questions, even if they are doing it wrong. FWIW, I found SEVERAL times that they stated they did not sell any components.

  5. #5
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    Don't assume the person answering the question knows what they are talking about.

    Here is a 20" rim:

    https://www.modernbike.com/product-2...SABEgKo3fD_BwE

    An ISO of 406 = 16" diameter = 8" radius. Add 4" of tire to the radius and you are at 12", therefore diameter will be about 24".

  6. #6
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    Well I bought the Mongoose Kong and successfully used it to upgrade an old Worksman Eagle Trike. The 20x4 Mongoose tires are indeed about 22 7/8" tall and the stock 24" rim/tire combo comes in at about 23 7/8". I bought an eBay 20" fat tire electric hub assembly for the front tire, no tire included. I bought an extra Kong tire on Amazon so I'd have three, I was very concerned to get the same pattern so I could rotate. I had to trim the head tube on the Eagle to accommodate the steerer tube length on the Kong fork. I used a plumbing pipe cutter, took off 20mm, which btw is the width of the scotch tape in my desk drawer, quite the template...

    The Kong headtube was narrower than the Eagle's but the steerer tube was identical to the Eagle except for length. I used the Eagle cups and bearings and the Kong washer, nut and neck. 1970 american bike all the way...

    Anyway, fitting the Kong fork instantly gave me electric drive ($153.00 on July 4th sale, no battery) and disc brakes. Previously this thing had a drum brake, weighing in at 6 lbs, it actually created more momentum than it could absorb in stopping power. We parked this thing and bought a Schwinn Meridian because my wife had to dump it in a ditch because it wouldn't stop. She did great, it was fun to watch, Wald basket almost didn'd bend.

    I'm testing it with 4 12v SLA batteries in an ammo box, just 3AH. It's been successful enough that I'm moving forward with the next step which is to lace the Kong rims to the Eagle trike hubs for the rear wheels.

    I'm looking into removing the rear brake derailleur mounting point and the rear disc caliper mounting bracket from the Kong and using them to install those features on the Eagle rear axle. There are many times when it would be nice to be able to pedal assist at speed. It would also be nice to have a second brake, one on each hand.

    My plan is to powder coat the Eagle hubs (they aren't well chromed anymore) and have the LBS lace them to the Kong rims next.

  7. #7
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    With your fabrication skills, why not lace your own wheels? LarsD put a nice video together on lacing fatbike wheels. Following it and Sheldon Brown's writeup I have built a set of fat bike wheels and 29+ wheels. The only special tool I bought was a Park tension meter.

    It sounds like a cool project. Post some pics.

  8. #8
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    Pics

    Some pics:

    Need Mongoose Kong Specs, Please.-20180704_155103%5B1%5D.jpg
    This is what I started with. It's a 24" Worksman Eagle(ish) Trike. It started life as a freewheel SS, front drum and caliper brake (neither technology was capable of stopping this thing) I upgraded the axle and replaced the rear wheels (and many other parts) with new Worksman OEM parts, they all turned out to be made in China and are very cheap, the original 30 year old rims are less rusty. I restored this for my son, it's painted Boy Scout colors, had a brass Boy Scout medallion for a head badge, it was a hit in the neighborhood for about 2 years. They wore out a set of bearings in the BB and it lost a spoke or two. I had an old desk drawer bolted to the back, it was just perfect to stand in for a ride.

    Need Mongoose Kong Specs, Please.-20180706_214506%5B1%5D.jpg
    This is a comparison of the forks. You can see that the Kong steerer tube is shorter. I found it interesting that the the legs on the Kong appear to be longer. Anyway, the geometry worked and In fact I kind of like the tubular look of the Kong fork better than "classic" crown of the Eagle fork. Actually I have no idea if this is the original fork, I assume. Anyway, the trike frame is a pretty simplistic tubular design and I think it and the Kong fork match.

    Well I seem to have jacked the upload feature. See next post for more pics (I hope)

  9. #9
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    Well this is the only pic I can get uploaded. Not sure why.

    Anyway this is after I've cut the head tube and installed the fork, wheel, etc. (actually, this might be a mock-up before I cut the tube)

    Need Mongoose Kong Specs, Please.-20180706_224913.jpg

    Say hi to Moose.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueCheesehead View Post
    With your fabrication skills, why not lace your own wheels? LarsD put a nice video together on lacing fatbike wheels. Following it and Sheldon Brown's writeup I have built a set of fat bike wheels and 29+ wheels. The only special tool I bought was a Park tension meter.

    It sounds like a cool project. Post some pics.
    LMAO, my fabrication skills are more like that of a farmer who welds...

    I'm afraid to attempt the lacing myself for two reasons. One is that I'm not sure how to true the wheels since I can't really spin them in a fork. The other is that I don't want to get into a deal where I order the wrong spokes and have to order more, wait, return, repeat, etc. I did print Sheldon's to study and I might try it myself. LBS wants about $150-$180 for the job. That's more than I paid for the front rim WITH a motor, controller, cables, PAS...

    As for the rear brake and derailleur, I'm totally just winging that. My plan is to cut the pieces off the Kong in a way that makes them easy to braze to the axle tube then have a buddy that does A/C work come braze it up for me. I have no idea if there is enough material in the right places on the Kong for that to work. I also have no idea how to line up a derailleur AND unless I cut some of the axle tube, I'm not going to be able to line up the middle of the cassette with the front sprocket. Be nice to do it though just because I'm getting pretty stoked about how much of the Kong I'm using up and I could kind of use the gears. You really have to stand on the pedal to get this thing moving and with any kind of downhill slope (I live in a coastal plain for the most part) the motor will take you faster than you can pedal.

  11. #11
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    Tomorrow I go pick up a Kong I found on Craig's List. I will use the rims and tires to build a wheel set for the back of my son's recumbent trike that I use as a tag-along behind my fatty.

    What I have found is that fat bike rims true quite easily because there is so much lateral stiffness. If I cannot get the wheel to fit in my standard truing stand I will simply make up two vertical wooden legs that I can slide an axle through on top of my work bench.

    DT Swiss has a nice spoke length calculator on line.

    Here is LarsD's video:


  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueCheesehead View Post
    Tomorrow I go pick up a Kong I found on Craig's List. I will use the rims and tires to build a wheel set for the back of my son's recumbent trike that I use as a tag-along behind my fatty.

    What I have found is that fat bike rims true quite easily because there is so much lateral stiffness. If I cannot get the wheel to fit in my standard truing stand I will simply make up two vertical wooden legs that I can slide an axle through on top of my work bench.

    DT Swiss has a nice spoke length calculator on line.
    I think you have convinced me to give the lacing a try. Just so happens I got a spake wrench in the mail and your post about the same time. Took some stuff apart last night, read Sheldon's, muddled through the DT Calculator, found some spokes, ordered a nipple driver, stopped.

    I can't find tandem spokes in the size I need.

    Hope your Kong works out. I'll post some more pics. The Kong rim I took apart weighs 768g.

  13. #13
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    Meager upload success.

    Need Mongoose Kong Specs, Please.-20180714_204905.jpg

    This is current config,

  14. #14
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    Meager upload success.

    Need Mongoose Kong Specs, Please.-20180714_204814.jpg

  15. #15
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    Sadly the Kong got sold out from under me. Seller and I had an agreed price and i was going to pick it up within 14 hours. With Craigslist you cannot count on a deal being a deal. The search goes on.

    Will Wheelsmith DH13 spokes work?

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueCheesehead View Post
    Sadly the Kong got sold out from under me. Seller and I had an agreed price and i was going to pick it up within 14 hours. With Craigslist you cannot count on a deal being a deal. The search goes on.

    Will Wheelsmith DH13 spokes work?
    Sorry to hear about the CL Kong. Hope you find a replacement soon. What parts are you looking for, besides rims...?

    After sleeping on it, I decided to plug "2 crosses or intersections" into the calculator because that's how the Kong comes from the factory. Turns out the Kong spokes were close enough to try so I laced it up. The spokes ended up being a little long and I can't get them tight. I proved to myself I could do it.

    So if I can decide what spokes to get, I'm ready to get this done. I'm not finding any tandem/13g/2.3xmm black spokes 182mm long readily available. I can easily order what I want in 14g. I have only looked at DT and Wheelsmith, I was avoiding the cheaper ones from companies I've never heard of. I've got the nipples more than finger tight but I can't strum any of the spokes. I also can't move the hub laterally even if I stand on it. Not sure I need more than 14g spokes...

  17. #17
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    180ish mm spokes are pretty short, i doubt you need any thicker than 14 ga. The DH13 spokes are 13 ga at the bend, but neck down to 14 ga. People on Ebay advertise them as being available in any length.

    I am just looking for the two tires, tubes and rims to lace up some fat rear wheels for my son's trike tag along.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueCheesehead View Post
    180ish mm spokes are pretty short, i doubt you need any thicker than 14 ga. The DH13 spokes are 13 ga at the bend, but neck down to 14 ga. People on Ebay advertise them as being available in any length.

    I am just looking for the two tires, tubes and rims to lace up some fat rear wheels for my son's trike tag along.
    Yeah, that's what I bought the Kong for, didn't realize I could use so many of the parts. I don't understand why Pacific doesn't sell parts in the US. Seems like it would be a no-brainer.

    eBay had lots of spokes but it took some time to find one that seemed legit, had matching nipples, combine shipping, correct quantities, and a heavier gauge, etc. I bought some 13g Sapim spokes in black with black nipples, which seem to be nice. I'm glad I went ahead and took the time to get thicker spokes even if they are a brand I've not heard of.

    I'm waiting on the hubs to be back from the powder coater today, new bearings for the freewheel and SOLAS tape for the rims should be here today via UPS. Hopefully by the end of the day, I'll have wheels mounted on the trike. It took some doing to get the hubs coated, I had to find a sandblaster that would do a small job reasonably (coater wanted ~$180 to sandblast the hubs). I found somebody that did a great job for $25. Coating both hubs and a seatpost in satin black will cost $35. I'd rather not have had this hassle and expense but at least I have matching hubs that are properly coated for a good long while. I also know the process in case I want to do powder coat the frame too.

    I also lucked into 4 17ah SLA batteries that I pulled out of a large UPS that puked them up. 4 batteries configured in two banks of two. I disassembled them and charged them individually. Three took a full charge almost instantly, one started at about 12.8 volts and was fully charged in two minutes. They are 4 years old, the replacements were 65 lbs, and they are 12"x7"x7" when put together. That being said, I don't think I want to permanently modify the trike to mount this battery brick. I originally wanted to mount a basket or an open box on the back however I might just mount a toolbox or storage tote:
    https://www.amazon.com/IRIS-4-Piece-...=iris+72+quart
    and put the batteries in the bottom and use the rest of the space for hauling/storage. I originally wanted to mount the batteries below the cargo area so that I could maximize my cargo space. The storage box might work though. If I find one sturdy enough, I might be able to put a top on it that you could sit on or even make some kind of rack for strapping larger stuff down on top. Maybe even incorporating fenders, which I have had very little luck finding pre-made to purchase. Anyway, I'll know more once I get the wheels on (hopefully tonight).

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by ddonaho View Post
    I bought some 13g Sapim spokes in black with black nipples, which seem to be nice. I'm glad I went ahead and took the time to get thicker spokes even if they are a brand I've not heard of.
    If you bought Sapim, fear not. They are one of the more well known, quality, spoke manufacturers. Sapim, Wheelsmith and DT Swiss seem to be the big 3.

    It will be cool to see it done.

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