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  1. #1
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    Need help setting up a fat rim for tubeless

    Hi there guys!

    I looked around at the various wheelset manufacturers and found wheelsets costing upwards of 4 times the cost of my bike (I'm cheap, the bike is entry level and I got a good deal). So I need to set the wheels I have up for tubeless.

    It's the stock rims that come on a '14 Charge Cooker. I've looked on Amazon and I see a single wide rim tape kit but it's rated poorly for lack of adhesion and I've seen comments where people have used Gorilla tape to seal the rims.

    So I'd like to ask if someone in the know could tell me what I need at the minimum to seal these rims up so the magic doesn't fall out? I figure I need a tape of some sort, some stems and a couple washers to convert the schrader openings to something more befitting a presta valve.

    Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time!

  2. #2
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    I've had varying experiences with gorilla tape and suggest getting fatty strippers. Trying to remove old gorilla adheisve when retaping is hell. I taped wheels for 4 years and would never again after using these. Read up and watch their videos, I didnt use lube to mount just rubbed some sealant, also didnt spray glue bands to rims. I just used factory rim strips not theirs.

    FattyStripper Tubeless Fat Bike Solution and SkinnyStripper Tubeless CX & DH Solution <link rel="image_src" href="http://fattystripper.com/media/FattyStripper_Logo_320.jpg" / ><link rel="image_src" href="http://fattystripper.com/media/FattyStripper_L

    https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/fa...on-989657.html

  3. #3
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    This thread has just about anything you want to know about tubeless:

    https://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/tu...ay-827178.html

    Fatty Strippers and split tubes are the same basic principle. Both can work well for rims not well suited for tubeless. It may require building up the bed of the rim with some foam. Fatty Stripper sells some foam rod, but sill sealing foam from Home Depot or other home stores works as well if not better.

    You still may have problems at low pressures (<4psi). Be sure to test it before going too far from home.

    For some rims tubes are the best solution. You can usually get by with a 26 x 2.75" tube for a 4" tire to save some weight.

  4. #4
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    Also you can run a Lightweight Q tube and loose 200 grams over stock far bike tubes. Personal experience on a friends wheelset that non tubeless tires(45nrth) came off the rims at 5PSI even on mulefuts 5 second into a ride. I've run my D4s on mulesfuts at sub 1 PSI(not but choice) for 8KM to get home on flat trails so a full tubeless wheelset is ideal.

    Tubeless can be some work and ongoing mainenance especially with non tubeless wheels and rims. Light tubes are more of a care free alternative.

  5. #5
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    My experience with tapes of different kind was rather poor and ended up using 20" tube instead for 26" 80mm wide rim (found 24" to be too loose). Really great, cheap and reusable solution. Plus you can use the valve of that 20" tube which is a plus too. Compared to 26 Fat tire you still save a lot (around 400g if I recall it correctly, 20" tube is around 95g)

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saskrider View Post
    Also you can run a Lightweight Q tube and loose 200 grams over stock far bike tubes. Personal experience on a friends wheelset that non tubeless tires(45nrth) came off the rims at 5PSI even on mulefuts 5 second into a ride. I've run my D4s on mulesfuts at sub 1 PSI(not but choice) for 8KM to get home on flat trails so a full tubeless wheelset is ideal.

    Tubeless can be some work and ongoing mainenance especially with non tubeless wheels and rims. Light tubes are more of a care free alternative.
    If a tire came off a Mulefut that easily then it was set up wrong. They are one of the best tires for locking the bead. I have run all sorts of tubeless and non-tubeless tires and never once had an issue at any pressure, and some that took a long time to disbead to swap tires.

    Setting up tires tubeless is not rocket science, you need a rim strip, which just covers the holes from outside punctures, a tubeless tire valve, and tape or liner of some sort. Wheels that are not designed to be set up tubeless can have problems at low pressures because they can come off the rim easier.

    I used Gorilla tape for a few years but the Stans (tubeless sealant) can attack the glue and not only loosen it but absorb some over time. Still, I have good luck with it overall. I used Zip Tape from Home Depot (and other hardware stores) because it is 1/2 the weight and does not absorb the sealant, and the glue is tenacious and resists coming apart. However, I have had a few wheels that, when removing the tire, caused the tape to shift, so I had to retape them. I switched instead to Kapton Tape, which is thinner and does not move when disbeading a tire. It is also available in many widths from Amazon. It is MUCH cheaper than dedicated bike rim tape.

    I am not a fan of the Fattystrippers (even though I run their bling strips) because they are one time use unless the stars align, and I have seen them glue themselves to the tire, creating a mess.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    Nothing to see here, move along folks.

  7. #7
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    Tire was setup right, it came off because my friend attempted to run way to low of pressure(could of even been less than 4 psi) who knows he dumped them down at plus 20 then met me to ride at -10 and didnt use a gauge.

    The non tubeless bead caused it to roll off the rim as it doesnt hook into the rim like a tubeless would of. I've never had this happen with 5 other 45nrth tubeless tires I've owned and can't contribute it to anything, he ran multiple tubless tires at low psi on the same setup and it never happened

    The none tubeless D5s are the loosest fitting tire I've ever set up. Im surprised they even mounted up tubeless honestly. Hes been running higher pressures with no issues. Could of been a freak thing too.

    Just want the OP to know they're not as reliable as a true tubeless on tubeless

  8. #8
    Rocking on a Rocky
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    Clear gorilla tape from rim wall to rim wall and up the sides a tubeless Schrader valve. Over lap the tape put a tube in and tire back on pump it to 20 of so psi and leave it over night. Try and take the tube out by only breaking on side of the tire free put your valve in and stans than try and get the mounted back up. Those rims are very poop rims try not going to low on psi after you get it set up.
    It doesn't matter what I ride as long as I ride it Rubber Side Down●~●.

  9. #9
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    Hi there guys and thanks so much for all the great advice!

    To be honest, after reading the comments here and in the linked threads, I'm strongly considering just running a 20 inch slime tube for the time being to see how that works for me. I had no idea that was an option and as was stated, these are pretty crap rims so I'm not super hopeful in regards to retaining the bead on a tubeless low pressure setup.

    I'll keep researching it while I run the tubes for a while.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saskrider View Post
    The none tubeless D5s are the loosest fitting tire I've ever set up. Im surprised they even mounted up tubeless honestly. Hes been running higher pressures with no issues. Could of been a freak thing too.

    I ran my non-tubeless D5ís for 3 years at between <1 -6 psi and they never gave any indication of burping or disbeading. Tons of others have as well, perhaps the bead was compromised. Mine were on there so tight it took me an honest 10 minutes with heavy gloves (cut my hands on the studs without them) to break each bead. I have never heard of a tire coming off a Mulefut easily.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    Nothing to see here, move along folks.

  11. #11
    turtles make me hot
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    Alex Blizzerks are excellent rims for tubeless and can be had for 53 dollars apiece. Is it worth lacing them to your hubs? Depends. How important is super easy, dependable tubeless to you?
    I like turtles

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saskrider View Post
    Tire was setup right, it came off because my friend attempted to run way to low of pressure(could of even been less than 4 psi) who knows he dumped them down at plus 20 then met me to ride at -10 and didnt use a gauge.

    The non tubeless bead caused it to roll off the rim as it doesnt hook into the rim like a tubeless would of. I've never had this happen with 5 other 45nrth tubeless tires I've owned and can't contribute it to anything, he ran multiple tubless tires at low psi on the same setup and it never happened

    The none tubeless D5s are the loosest fitting tire I've ever set up. Im surprised they even mounted up tubeless honestly. Hes been running higher pressures with no issues. Could of been a freak thing too.

    Just want the OP to know they're not as reliable as a true tubeless on tubeless
    I run old Dillingers (pre D4) on Mulefuts and no issues at low pressures. I run tape (Zip) and weigh 220+ lbs kitted out. I currently have a D5 on the front. Not sure it is "tubeless" ready, but it has been fine. My VanHelga is tubeless ready and it does fit the rim tighter which makes the initial inflation a bit easier, that's about it.

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