Nagging question about the split-tube method of tubeless wheels- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Nagging question about the split-tube method of tubeless wheels

    I want to attempt to go tubeless with my Wienmann HL80 rims, and yes I just learned that they are not the best for this.

    But the split-tube method has me baffled; doesn't the presence of the tube covering the rim bead hook eliminate the function of the hook? Does the tire not CARE that the hook is covered? Is there still enough soft "bump" showing thru the layer of tube rubber to make it still functional? WHy wouldn't you just trim the tube right dead-nuts to the vertical wall under the bead hook?
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  2. #2
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    The rubber of the tube bumps out at the "hook" so there remains a hook to hold the tire bead. While this might not work so well for a 100 psi road tire, it does fine for low pressure applications like a fat bike.

    The rubber is needed there to form the seal between the tire and the tube. Cutting the tube tight to the rim wall would allow the air to leak between the "tight" tube edge and the rim. Compressing the tube between the rim and the bead is what forms the seal.

  3. #3
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    Well, it obviously works, and your rationale for the tube between the tire and rim makes sense except for the fact that a Stan's conversion or similar dosen't rely on the tube sandwiched between the tire and rim, the sealant seals the interface.

    Whatever, I'm going with what works, thanks!

  4. #4
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    The seal with Stans and a tubeless rim/tire combo is between the bead and the bead shelf. Any seal with the vertical rim wall and hook, if any, is just gravy.

    The hook isn't even need in many cases. Some reading for you that discusses the bead hooks.
    Trail Tech: Off the hook - BikeRadar USA

  5. #5
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    I am currently playing with new tires on my HL80 rims. I managed to remove the old tire with the split tube still sealed to the tire bead. And I can confirm that I have never burped a tire with this set-up. Your foam strip needs to be almost 3/8" thick if you want to do it by hand (without a compressor). It will take about 4 tire levers to get the tire on the first time, but it won't fall off if you flat for some crazy reason. After you inflate the tire, the foam will eventually shrink to paper-thin over time. After you get it all mounted, go ride it around a little bit at ~10psi, and do some tight turns. That will help seat the tire squarely on the rim before the sealant dries. Soapy water really does help.

    -F
    It's never easier - you just go faster.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old_fart View Post
    Well, it obviously works, and your rationale for the tube between the tire and rim makes sense except for the fact that a Stan's conversion or similar dosen't rely on the tube sandwiched between the tire and rim, the sealant seals the interface.

    Whatever, I'm going with what works, thanks!
    What you are missing is that with a Stans, Orange Seal or other method you are using TAPE to form a seal so that air does not escape out between the tape and rim to the cutouts, nipple holes, valve stem hole or seam where the rim is joined. With a split tube there is no adhesive to make that seal between the tube and the rim. That tape adhesion is critical and is why the rim must be clean and one typically trims the rim strips so that more tape contacts the rim. Simply using a 24" tube will NOT provide a seal if the tube is not tucked between the bead and the rim. The pressure will not hold it tight. If you cut the tube "tight" so that it just sits on the bed of the rim and does not wrap up the side of the rim under the bead, it will fail.

    If your rim has a pinned seam you will need to run something, split tube or tape, up the side of the rim to cover that seam or you are likely to have a leak.

  7. #7
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    Split tubeless made easy...

    plan it...build it....ride it...love it....
    http://coastkid.blogspot.com/

  8. #8
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    Best video I've seen yet on the S-T method, thanks coastkid!

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