my tubeless leaks...suggestions???- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    my tubeless leaks...suggestions???

    I converted my Boris X9 to tubeless. There was a leak after riding that sealed when I stopped riding. Tire held pressure overnight with no visible leak. After riding around the pasture, I noticed the leak again. After stopping, it seals. It only leaks when riding the bike, leaking at the seam on both sides, the left greater than the right. I have my home brew with mould builder, ammonia, RV antifreeze and corn meal for sealant, same consistency as Stans. I tested my home brew on my other bike by puncturing the tubeless setup with a sewing needle. It sealed in seconds, stays sealed and has been ridden on (not long rides, just in town) at least once a week for the past 2 months. The tire is a Vee Mission 4" tubeless ready with 3" gorilla tape over lapped 6". After I installed the gorilla tape, I placed the tubes back in, inflated to 20 PSI and let the tires sit in the sun for 2 hours, then installed tubeless valves, sealant and inflated to 12 PSI.

    my tubeless leaks...suggestions???-tubeless.jpg

  2. #2
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    The Weinman HL-80's have a pretty big gap the the pinned seam - they're not welded. Someone on the Lurch lounge said theirs was leaking at the seam on a taped tubeless setup - same rim. I couldn't get any tape to stick well enough to these rims or to lay flat enough that there weren't wrinkles. I never thought I would get tape to work, so went ghetto tubeless. Save 450+g over stock on each wheel with this setup, about 90 g over a Q tubes 26x 2.4-2.7 light tube. I really did not like the way the Q tube filled out the snowshoes, or previous Devist8ers (pretty close to the Missions).

  3. #3
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    I agree, it's going to be pretty hard to get that to seal with tape if it's leaking at the seam, with split tube it would not be a problem.

  4. #4
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    I wonder if I could sand the seam smooth or use epoxy to fill the seam and then sand so as to not weaken the rim by removing material. Anyway, looks like I'm going to be getting messy

  5. #5
    NeedGod.com
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    It looks like it's leaking through the rim, not the seam of the rim. If it is indeed leaking through the rim seam, try putting some fingernail polish over the seams on the inside. That's what I did, and no problems so far.

    The other thing I would try is increase the psi for awhile. I usually do a ride with high psi, then gradually let air out until it starts burping.
    Nathan

  6. #6
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    my tubeless leaks...suggestions???

    I went ghetto tubeless with tape. I did a layer of duct tape (for color in my holes), then gorilla tape (making sure I have a really good seal on a very clean rim) then finish with a layer of strapping tape. I tried it without strapping tape and they slowly leaked overtime aka they would hold for a week or for a ride. I used Stan's in them and put them to 40 psi to seat them, shook them up (to get the Stan's all around) then laid them completely flat (via 2 chairs with the skew/cassette between). I flipped them every 30 min to hour and left them flat overnight. It has been sealed ever since. Best of luck!
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  7. #7
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    I used crazy glue and taped over that with Gorilla tape. The hardest part was getting the tires to pop into place. Looks good so far.

  8. #8
    turtles make me hot
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    Ghetto with a Q Tube will be foolproof.
    I like turtles

  9. #9
    All fat, all the time.
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    After my last leaking fiasco with gorilla tape I'm done with it.
    Split tube has been better.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shark View Post
    After my last leaking fiasco with gorilla tape I'm done with it.
    Split tube has been better.
    I just read your thread and the leaking fiasco. I didn't know there was such an issue. If/when the gorilla tape fails I'll have some 24" tubes ready or tyvek tape.

  11. #11
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    Go ghetto... That'll fix it.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by tjdog800 View Post
    Go ghetto... That'll fix it.
    The front lost about 1/2 the air over night. Looks like it is the split tube method. What tube size should I use? I've read 20" x 3", but I can't find any that size.

  13. #13
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    Q-tubes 24 x 2.4-2.75 with removable valve core works well.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shark View Post
    Q-tubes 24 x 2.4-2.75 with removable valve core works well.
    Where did you order yours? Thanks!

  15. #15
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    Just want to chime in on the split-tube / ghetto tubeless...Works great.
    Also, the Bontrager TLR sealant works better than Stan's.
    Last edited by surlybugger; 09-08-2014 at 10:01 AM.

  16. #16
    All fat, all the time.
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    Quote Originally Posted by radnur22 View Post
    Where did you order yours? Thanks!
    LBS had them sitting on the shelf, surprisingly

  17. #17
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    Weinmann HL-80 ghetto tubeless followup

    2 days ghetto tubeless, 2 rides, not a burp or leak or drop in psi. I did build up the middle of the rim with 3/8" foil backed expanded polystyrene foam strips cut from a 4x8 sheet of styrofoam insulation. I then covered the rim side and cut sides with wide electrical tape - colors of choice from Ace hardware. This now doubles as the rim strip AND bead locker - the 150g stock rim strip is gone. In total, this foam/etape strip came in at 90g. I then used a Specialized 24x 2.4-3.0 presta tube (sadly not removable core - that's just what happened to be on the back shelf at the local bike shop) for the split tube method. The foam build up was beefy and mounting the tire was a workout in itself, but once I decided to use soapy water instead of windex as a lubricant, I got both beads on and then set the beads with a compressor - not because I needed a large shot of air at once to fill the gap, but because the beads were set sooo tight on the foam build-up that it took 40 psi to seat them. I've yet to see a drop of stans along the ghetto strip perimeter. FYI - I could not get Gorilla tape or Tyvek tape to stick well to the anodized rim. There's a reason high end cookware is hard anodized aluminum, it's super slick and not porous - as non stick as you can get without teflon.

    These are the rims on the BD Lurch's, Boris X-5,7 and 9, and spec'd on the Strugis and NightTrain modles.

    The ride is significantly better over lightweight Q-tubes at the same PSI, from my perspective, on the trails I was riding.
    Last edited by watermonkey; 09-08-2014 at 10:04 AM. Reason: added content

  18. #18
    nvphatty
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    try toobs and forget this messy ghetto, gorilla tape this n that setup.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by nvphatty View Post
    try toobs and forget this messy ghetto, gorilla tape this n that setup.
    I concur Now to find a tube to fit.

    my tubeless leaks...suggestions???-tubelessflat.jpg

  20. #20
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    Success!

    I used 1/2" closed cell weather stripping to assist with centering the tire on the rim. Then I used my 2.88" gorilla tape cut in half to hold the foam in place. Finally ran a strip of duct tape down the center. The 24"x 2.5-2.75" tubes I found at the LBS worked great!

    my tubeless leaks...suggestions???-fattubelessfoam.jpg

    my tubeless leaks...suggestions???-fattubelesssuccess.jpg

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