Mullet Plus VS 29+ for Summer Setup[emoji769]- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Mullet Plus VS 29+ for Summer Setup

    I'd never really put too much thought into the whole plus conversion idea, but I've recently been looking at building a basic go fast 29er just for occasional race or chasing pr laps, etc. But maybe converting the fatty makes some sense... I love my Mayor, and could see it being faster than my heavy, steel, 160mm, 26+ hardtail in summer.

    I gather from browsing, that not all fatbikes fit 29+, so it must be taller than the average fat tire. So presumably that setup will raise the bb on the fatty, which could be negative, depending on pov.

    29+/27+ seems like it should average out pretty well, in terms of bb height. I'd also read a review of a Mullet Bikes(brand name) steed, noting that the lower rear axle height makes the bike both harder to endo, and easier to do step ups, manuals, etc. These are generally positive attributes. But I don't have any actual experience on it.

    So I'm curious if anyone has opted for a mullet setup instead of pure 29 plus, or has any thoughts on the subject.

  2. #2
    Mr. Chaos Theory
    Reputation: JonnyB76's Avatar
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    I've been thinking about setting up my Mutz as a 29+ 27.5+ mixer. I need to look into a 150mm 29+ wheel cost. I'm interested in hearing anyone who has first hand experience or other opinions!!

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  3. #3
    This place needs an enema
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    I've run 29+ on a handful of different chassis', and 27.5 x 3.4" on a few others. And once (only once) the mullet setup.

    There's almost no scenario where I preferred the smaller wheels (singly or the pair) over bigger. Dual 29+ was more efficient (faster if that's your jam) across a range of surfaces. Dual 29+ was more adept at techy stuff, up and down. 29+ filled in holes better than, well, anything.

    If I had to name a place that 27.5 (dual or single rear) was better, it'd be at float.

    But you already have fat wheels for that.

    I don't consider a fatbike to be complete for year-round use until it has a set of 29+ meats ready to go.

  4. #4
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    I've ridden a mullet setup pretty extensively since before it became cool in the pro circuits last year.

    I did it for exactly the reason that you are want to try it, lower bottom bracket and slackening the front end a bit. I've really liked the bikes that I've done this to and my primary wheelset was a 27/29 mixed. That said, you can absolutely notice the difference between a 27 and 29 in the rear and ultimately I would say that the full 29er setup is better. The rollover gained with the bigger wheel size outweighs any geometric benefits to the bike itself.

    But it was fun with the mixed set up too....

    Because it was a bike. And bikes are fun to ride...

  5. #5
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    OP, 29+ is where it's at, super fun.

    Quote Originally Posted by Shinkers View Post
    I've ridden a mullet setup pretty extensively since before it became cool in the pro circuits last year.
    This is only in some cases in Enduro and DH racing. Which means it has zero implications for your trail bike.

    Don't use what the pro's do as a reference, they demand very different things from their bikes for a very focused/specific application.

    I'd be willing to bet that enduro/dh pro's trail bikes aren't mullets, even if their race bike is.
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  6. #6
    Hybrid Leftys aren't real Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    OP, 29+ is where it's at, super fun.

    Don't use what the pro's do as a reference, they demand very different things from their bikes for a very focused/specific application.


    +1

    I'm so done with *any* industries focus of "this is what the pros use, so you should aspire to that too". It's a horsesh*t metric, used to sell high end product to people seeking performance gains for bragging rights at the water cooler, and little else.

    Do you really need a fully built rally car with 800HP (whatever), to commute? Apparently, according to Subaru and friends, you do.

    Ride you damn ride, smile, burn calories, produce endorphins, repeat. If you drink a beer afterwards, good job!

    Mikesee's figured out the same thing I and Ben have. At least, if you're tall enough to have them not be an encumbrance, 29+ is just way more fun for the vast bulk of the way *the rest of us*, ride.

    The flat brim/RedBull set, can take their princess and the pea/Goldilocks, 2.8", no wait, 2.6", no wait, 2.58235", is juuuuust right, and shove it.

    29x3 tires are just a hell of a lot of fun, stop screwin' with my good time, dang it all.

    OP? Another vote for 29x3, you'll have a blast!
    Cannondale Lefty and HeadShock servicing, wheel building, etc...


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  7. #7
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    What tires are you running in the winter? If you're running 26x4.8ish or 27.5x4.5ish, 29+ will be pretty close to the same diameter. If you are on 3.8ish tires, 27.5+ will be closer in diameter.

  8. #8
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    Tire diameter

    -deleted link-

    I didnít realize that site was so inaccurate about wheel size. Good to know.
    Last edited by Skookum1; 04-21-2020 at 10:21 AM.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skookum1 View Post
    https://www.bikecalc.com/wheel_size_math

    As shown on this site, 29x3.0 has a nearly identical (estimated) diameter to 26x4.25. As such, its a great fit for many fat bikes.
    I have no idea who made that 'theoretical' chart, but 29x3 and 26x4.25 are NOT the same diameter. You have to go up to about 26x5 to get the same diameter as 29x3.

  10. #10
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    So as a general rule of thumb (there is some exception, like I know the 27.5 vanhelga 3.8 has a bigger diameter than other 3.8):

    26x 4.8 = 29er = 27.5x 3.8

    27.5 x 4.5 = 29+

    ???

  11. #11
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    I'm pretty sure the general rule of thumb for diameter is more like:

    26x4.8/5.0 = 27.5x4.5 = 29x3.0

    26x3.8/4.0 = 27.5x3.0 = 29x2.0

  12. #12
    Mr. Chaos Theory
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    Anyone have a 29x3 on a 45mm width rim like a Scraper i45 Wana measure the max wheel diameter? I've got 768.35mm diameter to work with with it rubbing on my frame, I know terrane 29x2.8 McFly's work, just trying to see if I can run 29x3, the website below show's 26x4.6 are 792.68mm but I have a Dunderbiest or a Wrathchild at 26x4.6 on 80mm rims on my Mutz with clearanceso I know the website is theoretical dimensions vs real world, I trust my measurements for the Mutz. I find this a fun brain strainer!

    Any help would be appreciated

    https://www.bikecalc.com/wheel_size_math

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  13. #13
    Rippin da fAt
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    Quote Originally Posted by AllMountin' View Post
    I'd never really put too much thought into the whole plus conversion idea, but I've recently been looking at building a basic go fast 29er just for occasional race or chasing pr laps, etc. But maybe converting the fatty makes some sense... I love my Mayor, and could see it being faster than my heavy, steel, 160mm, 26+ hardtail in summer.

    I gather from browsing, that not all fatbikes fit 29+, so it must be taller than the average fat tire. So presumably that setup will raise the bb on the fatty, which could be negative, depending on pov.

    29+/27+ seems like it should average out pretty well, in terms of bb height. I'd also read a review of a Mullet Bikes(brand name) steed, noting that the lower rear axle height makes the bike both harder to endo, and easier to do step ups, manuals, etc. These are generally positive attributes. But I don't have any actual experience on it.

    So I'm curious if anyone has opted for a mullet setup instead of pure 29 plus, or has any thoughts on the subject.
    Hope you can give it a go and experiment with the setup. Good times happen this way. If it raises the BB, you won't get stuck on the speed bump in front of the package store or dispensary anymore, bunus!
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  14. #14
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    So I ordered a mullet set, but received a pair of 27+. I ended up setting them up and running them until I could get the proper front wheel.

    Impressions on full 27+: This is quite a drop from my roly poly 4.8's! Those are tall tyres. The bike was pretty quick with this setup. Set some new PRs and whatnot. Surprisingly compliant for a rigid bike. Way more difficult to manual than the full fat setup, and not a subtle difference. I suppose it makes sense when I think about it, but wow. Bike works great otherwise.




    Fast forward to today and finally got the 29+ front set up. Fills up the fork nicely. Took it for a shakedown ride. Much easier to manual. Much harder to endo. Again, not a subtle difference. Feels like it did on fat tyres, but quicker. No trail time yet, but the feel is so much better.



    Looking forward to putting it on the trail.

  15. #15
    Rippin da fAt
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    BB height will do that to the ability to manual. Higher is easier. There is a reason trials bikes are positive BB, always.

    Very curious as to how that setup will perform. It looks interesting, indeed. That is looking very playful however, how it handles on the trails and in the curves will be interesting to learn.

    Damn, I would love to CAD a frame with a zero drop BB, 67į HT, 70į seat tube.
    Get fAt, Stay fAt, Ride fAt
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  16. #16
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    Today we actually got outta town and did a double header at Fort Custer & Maple Hill. First two trail rides with the mullet setup. Loaded frame bag & two water bottles. 27 tpi knard front & chronicle in rear. Prolly pushing 35 lbs.

    Bike is noticeably heavier than with 27x3 chronicles front and rear, but it's smooth and rolls well. Balance feels great. Did well in the sandy xc trails at the Fort. Maple hill is a new school flow trail with berms and tables. No gnar, at least in the direction of the day. Bike feels good in the berms, and conditions were decent, so I went for a pr on both downhills. Both were top ten results.




    I can't really argue against the setup for the relatively tame, dirt singletrack that populates most of Michigan. Pretty comfortable, at least with a pump heavy riding style. Still handles like a bike.

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