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  1. #1
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    Mukluk 2 vs 3 Wheels/Hubs

    Getting ready to pull the trigger on one of these, but the Salsa site lists different hubs for these two bikes in their build sheet, but only one set of Mukluk hubs (Mukluk 2's) in their parts page. I know all the other differences between the two bikes, just not sure on the wheels (I'm really picky about good wheels and hubs). Anybody have the opportunity to compare the two side by side and see if they are the same? Thanks for your help.

  2. #2
    Fat!Drunk!Slow!
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    The only thing I can find different is the color.

  3. #3
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    Yep, the only differences between the two wheelsets is the hub color and the rim cutouts on the Muk 2.

  4. #4
    He be a moose too.
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    When I talked to the Salsa rep, he mentioned something about a different sealed bearing or some such thing but if they don't specifically advertise it, I would verify it first. What they plan for in summer isn't always what they get in fall.

  5. #5
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    Yeah Salsa's website needs to be updated. I've asked the dealers about the hubs and they told me no difference besides the colors. In addition, I rode a 2012 Muk3 complete build yesterday and it was a 2X9 setup. This was new to me since the 2011 models were 3X9 and the website lists the 2012 as being a 3x setup.

  6. #6
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    I have a Muk3, and yes it is a 2x9 with the guard. If, as you say, you are interested in the quality of the wheels, then I would go with the Muk2 for sure. The weight savings alone would be huge. And you'd get better tires out of the gate. If you buy a Muk3 complete and then upgrade your wheels you'll be looking at the cost of a Muk2 anyway. And, there are crank/chainline/tire rub issues with the Muk3 that might be solved with the E13 cranks on the Muk2. Then again, might not be solved without going with something like the MWOD. I really like my Muk3, tho. Just my 2 cents.

  7. #7
    MORBID
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    Quote Originally Posted by Misterlime View Post
    In addition, I rode a 2012 Muk3 complete build yesterday and it was a 2X9 setup. This was new to me since the 2011 models were 3X9 and the website lists the 2012 as being a 3x setup.
    Where does it show that? I am looking at their site and it says, "Chainring SRAM 24/36T w/ Bash Guard" under build kit.

  8. #8
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    My Muk is a 3 frame built with all Muk 2 or better spec components. Muk 2 uses the cutout Rolling Darryl rims and I went with BFL's skipping the Larry's. Bike weighs now just over 33 lbs. My BFL's on the 80mm rims are only a bit over 4 inches wide but I'm okay with that - it rolls over ANYTHING.

    I have a 11-34 XT cassette with the 11 and 12 cogs removed and spacers on the back. I have a Origin-8 crank with 36/22 also spaced on the drive side. Works perfect and my 2x7 set up allows 4-5 m of chain clearance. Hope that helps.
    Wally

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ocho View Post
    My Muk is a 3 frame built with all Muk 2 or better spec components. Muk 2 uses the cutout Rolling Darryl rims and I went with BFL's skipping the Larry's. Bike weighs now just over 33 lbs. My BFL's on the 80mm rims are only a bit over 4 inches wide but I'm okay with that - it rolls over ANYTHING.

    I have a 11-34 XT cassette with the 11 and 12 cogs removed and spacers on the back. I have a Origin-8 crank with 36/22 also spaced on the drive side. Works perfect and my 2x7 set up allows 4-5 m of chain clearance. Hope that helps.
    That setup sounds like the way to go. How quality do you think the Origin 8 crank is? And after swapping out the Hussefelt crank would I also need to replace the stock cassette that came on my Muk3 complete? Or could I just remove a couple cogs?

  10. #10
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    I don't have much experience with an Origin-8 crank but Ben Witt put his together and he hasn't had any problems with them. I'm running a blue Salsa "big" ring on it. In use so far its as good as anything else. I'm using an FSA ISIS BB and that appears to be a nice piece of hardware.

    I think you could just remove the cogs, at least thats what it sounds like to me.
    Wally

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhatRoller View Post
    That setup sounds like the way to go. How quality do you think the Origin 8 crank is? And after swapping out the Hussefelt crank would I also need to replace the stock cassette that came on my Muk3 complete? Or could I just remove a couple cogs?
    You should replace the BB to an ISIS standard one. Although the crank will work on the Howitzer BB, the chainrings will be way far out. If the derailleur can shift it... go for it. You'll probably have quite a bit of rub on the derailleur. A standard ISIS crank on that BB will work as well and not be quite as far out as the Origin8 double.

    I purchased the Origin8 double to replace the Whirlys on my Pug that I'm going to sell so I can use the Whirlys on the Mukluk 2 if the e.13 doesn't work to my liking. They seem like a set of cranks. They cost just enough to have some decent quality.

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