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  1. #401
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    9.5 miles on sat. 8.5 miles on sunday all SWPA single track.
    had to tighten the headset.. kind of typical

    185lb naked. rigid fork
    rode 7psi front and 8psi rear.. felt pretty good
    as of now.. SL 2.4-2.75 tubes.

  2. #402
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    More pics of bikes that did arrive and out on the trails PUH-LEASE!! .

    Here's to hoping all our bikes ship this coming week.
    Last edited by OnThaCouch; 11-09-2014 at 05:24 PM. Reason: Turning the rant mode off...more pics please.

  3. #403
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    Definitely... more photos for those waiting folks. I think they help give us reason for waiting.

  4. #404
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    Whole lot of first world problems going on here

    We've gotten far more information than people on the Salsa/Surly waiting list have. It gets here when it gets here people. While you wait, got for a bike ride. Don't have a bike? Go for a run/hike. Better yet, trail work days. If it's December and we haven't gotten movement I'll be the first to grab a pitchfork. Until then? Chill people. Chill

  5. #405
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    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut View Post
    whole lot of first world problems going on here :d chill people. Chill
    qft!!

  6. #406
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    Quote Originally Posted by drmayer View Post
    Unpacked my 21" metal flake sturgis bullet this morning. Made some upgrades/changes with parts from other bikes i had:

    X9 crank with 28t ring
    oneup 42t cog
    X9 shifter and mid cage derailleur
    Lou on the back and Nate on the front
    Superlight tubes
    Shorter stem

    Right now it sits at 34lb with pedals.

    A few impressions:

    The frame tubing, welds and paint quality look good.

    I don't care for the paint color. It was well done, just not what i was expecting when i ordered. I was thinking it would be more grey, but i would call it a metallic black.

    Spacers on the front hub aren't a big deal to me, they do fit with a little friction fit on the existing end caps. The only concern would be losing them. I could run a rigid fork with 135mm spacing if i need to.

    Full cable housing is run through the downtube for both front and rear derailleur.

    I will probably replace the saddle and post down the road to something a little nicer but they will do fro now.

    Attachment 937808Attachment 937809
    How did the new crank go on? Any special steps? Did you change the BB too? Fat bike crank?

    Thanks!

  7. #407
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    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by fripp View Post
    How did the new crank go on? Any special steps? Did you change the BB too? Fat bike crank?

    Thanks!
    X9 fat bike crank with new GXP BB. The direct mount ring is intended for a BB30 crank, which means the ring isn't offset toward the centerline of the bike. This gives more chain/tire clearance when running a Lou in the back. That crank probably wouldn't work with 2 rings, it's not wide enough.

  8. #408
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    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-happy-fat.jpg17.5 Sturgis Bullet Arrived a day early for me!!! got it friday instead of the predicted monday! put it together on saturday. everything came pretty well assembled out of the box, but there were a few parts that certainly needed to be greased, Especially the bottom bracket. took it for a spin around the city mostly. It only saw a little dirt at the park. next weekend theres some snow in the forecast!!! Im hoping to get out to some trails and really see what this puppy can do!

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-img_6826.jpgMotobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-img_6827.jpgMotobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-img_6828.jpgMotobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-img_6829.jpgMotobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-img_6831.jpgMotobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-img_6834.jpgMotobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-img_6836.jpgMotobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-img_6839.jpgMotobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-img_6842.jpg

    I went to the LBS and got myself a Brooks Cambium. and borrowed their shock pump and pumped the Bluto up to 140psi (I clock in around 250, naked) I ditched the stock bars for my origin 8 pro rise wide bars. this beast is surprisingly quick on the uptake. but the true test will be the trails. It sounds like a Jeep with off road tires when I ride it on the pavement

  9. #409
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    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut View Post
    Whole lot of first world problems going on here

    We've gotten far more information than people on the Salsa/Surly waiting list have. It gets here when it gets here people. While you wait, got for a bike ride. Don't have a bike? Go for a run/hike. Better yet, trail work days. If it's December and we haven't gotten movement I'll be the first to grab a pitchfork. Until then? Chill people. Chill
    I'd wager that most of the folks "talking" about waiting frustration have gotten back from jobs, projects, a ride, trail work, & life, but have taken another moment to check various sites for what they think will be some word about the thing they feel will make life that much more fun.

  10. #410
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    Quote Originally Posted by wildskycomet View Post
    I'd wager that most of the folks "talking" about waiting frustration have gotten back from jobs, projects, a ride, trail work, & life, but have taken another moment to check various sites for what they think will be some word about the thing they feel will make life that much more fun.
    Hit the nail right squarely on the head to all of the above.

    The "first world" problems comment is a cutesy little smartass comment that is too cliche to be humorous anymore. Now it is just annoying.

    Again, I do not have a legitimate complaint until November 12 comes and goes without any shipping movement. I am just damn excited to get this thing torn apart, rebuilt, and dirty.

    I have never ridden a fatbike. My local shop offered for me to test one out and I declined because I want the first experience to be with my own bike.

    I have been riding and racing since 1994, and have thoroughly enjoyed all of the merits of full suspension since my first Heckler in 1997. Along the way I have resisted so many fads within the sport and I still do with 9-speed drivetrains and 26" wheels. I have ridden pretty much everything imaginable from 20-pound hardtails to DH bikes and 32 pound 180mm bikes and loved them all for what they were capable of.

    But something about fat bikes have called out to me since I saw my first one in person and I am damn excited to see what the ride is all about. While lately for me it has been about racing and Strava more than
    getting out and enjoying time in the woods exploring and tractoring over some gnarly terrain. That is exactly what I am looking forward to with this bike. Something different.
    Last edited by silvbullit; 11-09-2014 at 11:18 PM.

  11. #411
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    "While lately it for me it has been about racing and Strava more than just getting out and enjoying time in the woods exploring and tractoring over some gnarly terrain. That is exactly what I am looking forward to with this bike."

    Thats great to here!!...one less speed freak taking time out from the Strava bragade to enjoy the ride and not just the finish line.

    Happy Trails!

  12. #412
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    But there is a small contingent of winter fat-bikers in my area that have winter-only Strava segments so damn them for making those segments!
    '10 Specialized Big Hit 33lbs
    '12 Santa Cruz Butcher 30lbs
    '13 On One 456 EVO hardtail 27lbs
    '95 Barracuda Hardtail 25lbs

  13. #413
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    Tommorrow is the day! Worked all weekend knowing that my bike was sitting in the UPS warehouse less than a mile away. The boss asked me to work tommorrow, I said sorry I have a date with the UPS man, I don't think she was too happy, haha. I'm feeling bad for everyone still waiting to hear from BD, but LMAO at the posts. I'm sure I would be on the conspiracy side at this point. Big winter storm forecast for mon/tue, hope the UPS man can get here.

  14. #414
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    Got 9.5 miles of PA single track in today on my 19" purple Night Train. This is my first rigid bike so I'm a little feelin beat up, most trails are kinda rocky. I'd guess I ran my tires around 11-12psi, didn't have a spare tube so wanted to go on the higher side. Only thing I replaced so far are the grips. I'm still not sure what the deal is with all the spacers for the front hub and crank. Why didn't they just make the fork and BB to size to start?

  15. #415
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    Quote Originally Posted by siv View Post
    Got 9.5 miles of PA single track in today on my 19" purple Night Train. This is my first rigid bike so I'm a little feelin beat up, most trails are kinda rocky. I'd guess I ran my tires around 11-12psi, didn't have a spare tube so wanted to go on the higher side. Only thing I replaced so far are the grips. I'm still not sure what the deal is with all the spacers for the front hub and crank. Why didn't they just make the fork and BB to size to start?
    I believe all fat bikes (170 and 190 rears) use a 100mm bottom bracket. The 190 rear requires the use of a 120mm spindle and spacers. 170 uses a 100mm spindle.

  16. #416
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    I may be the first one to post photos of a snow ride, 8-20 inches forecast for monday

  17. #417
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    Quote Originally Posted by burnedthetoast View Post
    @ Destr0 - That's the first batman tape I've seen in cutouts!

    You doing the same tubeless approach as pearsth? Is that stock wheel/tire combo?
    Not going to mess with tubeless yet. Just Q-Tube SL that I ordered. Did 10 miles of singletrack yesterday and another 7.5 today. :-) Still playing with tire pressure but so far I am liking 14 in the front tire and 10 in the rear.

  18. #418
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    No good

    I have not been able to ride my Sturgis Bullet on singletrack or snow yet. I did ride it down to the store my wife and I just bought in Rico, CO a couple of times this weekend and rode it around town a little. There will be plenty of snow this winter in the Rico area so I am excited.


    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-20141109_073532_000.jpg
    Last edited by mtb_fun; 11-09-2014 at 09:07 PM. Reason: needs correction
    2013 Specialized Camber Comp
    Motobecane Sturgis Bullet (Arrived 11/6/14)

  19. #419
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    FYI for Sturgis buyers waiting on your bikes still, the Tektro brakes are awesome after a good break-in. I do not see any reason to upgrade them.
    2013 Specialized Camber Comp
    Motobecane Sturgis Bullet (Arrived 11/6/14)

  20. #420
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtb_fun View Post
    FYI for Sturgis buyers waiting on your bikes still, the Tektro brakes are awesome after a good break-in. I do not see any reason to upgrade them.
    That is what I would say after going down some inclines, I felt like I had good control of the brakes. I might switch out the seat, I like the looks of it but it's certainly not as comfortable as the one on my other bike. It was nice to get out and explore some local territory.
    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-newbikebyriver.jpg

  21. #421
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    I am on the waiting list as well.. and my shipping was said to be by the 10th of November which is today.. Do you really complain after the date? I dunno.. but this is holding everything up for me. Looking to order a Chinese carbon frame to swap everything over and need to see what fork steertube length is and everything. Can someone measure the fork steer tube length for me so I know if it will fit the frame I want to order? Seems like us from NH are out of luck on shipment...

  22. #422
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    Few updates:

    After my first ride and realizing my tire pump reading 10 PSI is NOT 10 PSI. got a flat and was pretty upset, every other bike I have is tubeless so I figure why not I Will attempt to make this tubeless. But before that, can anyone recommend a good low pressure tire pump/gauge?

    Now onto the tubeless, I did the gorilla tape method, I first cut the wheel foam to be very skinny. I wanted the gorilla glue to contact as much of the rim as possible. The rims are pretty wide and I had the 2.88 wide gorilla tape, so I did 3 layers. One in the middle and one on each side. This was perfect, I tried one strip in the middle and 2 on just each side and BOTH leaked. Setting the bead is annoying and will take a while, Just keep blasting air in it and keep messing with the tire. I tried doing the set the bead with the tube trick and it didnt work so I did it the manual way and prayed. Once it hit I road around and bam its good to go. Left it overnight and no leaks. Just want to make sure I have the right tire pressure as it feels rock hard (for the bead to settle)

    Now on to weight savings. Before hand I was at 35.2 pounds. Medium Night Train.
    removed front derailleur and extra chain ring, 16 t and 42t cog in rear. SLX pedals. Different saddle

    Now that I went tubeless I am at 31.2 lbs. That is 4 lbs savings just in tubes!! I did the bathroom scale method.

    I would like to get it to <30. that is 725 grams I need to save. some room in stem, seat post( for sure!) and I think thats it for now. AFter that it gets expensive.

    I did LOVE the brakes. very firm and powerful, tons of modulation. Was very impressed for an AVid brakeset. Comparable to my XTRs on my trail bike but will need to do more rides to confirm

  23. #423
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    Quote Originally Posted by danny31292 View Post
    I believe all fat bikes (170 and 190 rears) use a 100mm bottom bracket. The 190 rear requires the use of a 120mm spindle and spacers. 170 uses a 100mm spindle.
    I'm still confused. Saw a Farley the other day, no spacers with a 170 rear. We have a longer spindle crank AND we need spacers? Maybe the Farley had a 120mm spindle crank (Race Face Ride). I guess my point is why not just make the BB shell 120mm instead of 100mm? Same with fork, make it 135 or give us a 150 hub. Don't get me wrong, it's a nice frame/bike and I was impressed with the wheel weight also.

  24. #424
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    Urban Phenom! "Is that from the Batman Movie?" Prob won't see picture of wheel off & locked up to street sign.

  25. #425
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    Quote Originally Posted by siv View Post
    I'm still confused. Saw a Farley the other day, no spacers with a 170 rear. We have a longer spindle crank AND we need spacers? Maybe the Farley had a 120mm spindle crank (Race Face Ride). I guess my point is why not just make the BB shell 120mm instead of 100mm? Same with fork, make it 135 or give us a 150 hub. Don't get me wrong, it's a nice frame/bike and I was impressed with the wheel weight also.
    No fat bike has a 120mm bottom bracket. The Farley had a 100mm spindle and a 100mm bottom bracket hence no spacers. 190 bikes need a longer spindle to have the correct chain line. Spacers are required since the bottom bracket is only 100mm. As for the hub, bikesdirect could have cheaped out there.

  26. #426
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    Quote Originally Posted by danny31292 View Post
    No fat bike has a 120mm bottom bracket. The Farley had a 100mm spindle and a 100mm bottom bracket hence no spacers. 190 bikes need a longer spindle to have the correct chain line. Spacers are required since the bottom bracket is only 100mm. As for the hub, bikesdirect could have cheaped out there.
    Not trying to be annoying just want to understand. If the BB shell is 100mm the spindle has to be longer to account for the threaded BB, spacers etc. I guess I'll have to take the crank off and measure everything because if I were to replace the crank is have no clue what size to order. Some aftermarket cranks give a chain line dimension, know what 190 equates to?

  27. #427
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    Quote Originally Posted by danny31292 View Post
    No fat bike has a 120mm bottom bracket. The Farley had a 100mm spindle and a 100mm bottom bracket hence no spacers. 190 bikes need a longer spindle to have the correct chain line. Spacers are required since the bottom bracket is only 100mm. As for the hub, bikesdirect could have cheaped out there.

    There is one chinese carbon frame that has an actual 120mm bb shell. But that's the only one I know of. 120mm effective bb shell width is required if you want to run a 2-ring set-up in the front for optimal chainline. If the frame manufacturers went to a 120mm bb shell width, the spacers on the crank spindle could be eliminated. However, the 100mm bb shell is optimal because it gives those who want to use a 1x front ring set-up the option to use a shorter spindle (i.e. designed 170mm OLD rear end) to lower the q-factor. With a 1x set-up, you don't need the extra spindle width to get optimal chainline as long as you get the right crank/ring set-up (e.g. RF cinch, direct mount with the ring flipped...gives you perfect 1x chainline on a 170mm O.L.D. crank spindle.). The only other issue at this point is whether or not the frame designer took this into account and made enough crank-to-chainstay clearance for the narrower q-factor. There is one report in the chinese carbon frame thread that using a crank meant for 170mm O.L.D. results in 0.5mm clearance between crankarm and chainstay. And under load and flex, the arm actually hits the chainstay.

    For the front hubs, this is a Novatech issue more than BD. Did BD cheap out? I believe not. Novatech is proably the best no-name hub you could've spec'd. I don't know for certain, but I would hazard to guess that Novatech is possibly manufacturing the Sarma, 907 and Borealis hubsets (to different spec's of course).

    I would hazard also to guess that many out-of-the-box fat-bikes out there are using the Novatech 150mm front hub with these end cap/spacer configuration (i.e. Rocky Mountain Blizzard, Kona, Felt, etc...all who spec generic, no-name hubs on their bluto-equipped fat-bikes).

  28. #428
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    My impressions on the Tektro brakes are the same as others - I have Deore, SLX and XT disc brakes on my other bikes and I think the Tektros are just as good and as much stopping power as the SLX/XT (I can tell Zero difference between the SLX/XT brakes when riding). The lever throw does feel different - a bit more throw than the Shimano, but not bad. Until I got a bit more used to them I was running one finger brakes with the levers slightly squeezed all the time. :-) I am 240lbs and had no need for any more stopping power.

    I completely hate the stock seat however. It is too wide, too short of a nose and the cover feels slippery to me. Ordered a new seat on Sunday (decided to give it one more ride after Saturday) Anyone want a WTB Speed V seat PM me, going cheap! :-)

    I swapped out the seatpost and the stem - put on a Bontrager Race Light 90mm I had laying around. The stock seat has some setback to it so after I shortened up the cockpit I had a bit more upright position than I am used to. Not sure I can get used to it or not but going to wait for my longer seat and longer bars before I go back to a longer stem.

    The Snowshoe tires seem fine - still dialing in the pressure - too low up front and I was getting tons of self steer. Felt best at about 14-15PSI w/ 135 PSI in the Bluto. Bluto at higher PSI didn't give enough small bump compliance, any softer with my weight and I was burning through all the travel on medium sized bumps. At 135 PSI I used about 75% of the travel on the trails, but I didn't really hit anything big. I have bottomless tokens coming - hopefully that will let me run lower pressure and have the compression ramp up quicker.

    Super happy with the way this thing rides, just need some tweaking to make it awesome!

    :-)

  29. #429
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    Quote Originally Posted by siv View Post
    Not trying to be annoying just want to understand. If the BB shell is 100mm the spindle has to be longer to account for the threaded BB, spacers etc. I guess I'll have to take the crank off and measure everything because if I were to replace the crank is have no clue what size to order. Some aftermarket cranks give a chain line dimension, know what 190 equates to?
    check out this link. The whole fatbike standards things is a mess.

    Salsa Cycles

  30. #430
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    Quote Originally Posted by neons97 View Post
    There is one chinese carbon frame that has an actual 120mm bb shell. But that's the only one I know of. 120mm effective bb shell width is required if you want to run a 2-ring set-up in the front for optimal chainline. If the frame manufacturers went to a 120mm bb shell width, the spacers on the crank spindle could be eliminated. However, the 100mm bb shell is optimal because it gives those who want to use a 1x front ring set-up the option to use a shorter spindle (i.e. designed 170mm OLD rear end) to lower the q-factor. With a 1x set-up, you don't need the extra spindle width to get optimal chainline as long as you get the right crank/ring set-up (e.g. RF cinch, direct mount with the ring flipped...gives you perfect 1x chainline on a 170mm O.L.D. crank spindle.). The only other issue at this point is whether or not the frame designer took this into account and made enough crank-to-chainstay clearance for the narrower q-factor. There is one report in the chinese carbon frame thread that using a crank meant for 170mm O.L.D. results in 0.5mm clearance between crankarm and chainstay. And under load and flex, the arm actually hits the chainstay.

    For the front hubs, this is a Novatech issue more than BD. Did BD cheap out? I believe not. Novatech is proably the best no-name hub you could've spec'd. I don't know for certain, but I would hazard to guess that Novatech is possibly manufacturing the Sarma, 907 and Borealis hubsets (to different spec's of course).

    I would hazard also to guess that many out-of-the-box fat-bikes out there are using the Novatech 150mm front hub with these end cap/spacer configuration (i.e. Rocky Mountain Blizzard, Kona, Felt, etc...all who spec generic, no-name hubs on their bluto-equipped fat-bikes).
    Great post man, thanks. I'm a machinist so I can make whatever size spacers I want. The only question I have for you is if you go to a 1X. You can't just eliminate the spacers even if you have crank arm to chain stay clearance, won't the spindle wanna stick out through the non drive side of the arm?

  31. #431
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    Novatec has a 150mm front hub for fat bikes. BD just didn't use it. Probably just so they could use the same hub/rim combo for more of their bikes. It's disappointing.

  32. #432
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    Quote Originally Posted by siv View Post
    Great post man, thanks. I'm a machinist so I can make whatever size spacers I want. The only question I have for you is if you go to a 1X. You can't just eliminate the spacers even if you have crank arm to chain stay clearance, won't the spindle wanna stick out through the non drive side of the arm?
    it depends what crank you have.. you would need a different spindle.. a 100mm spindle is 170 spaced. A 120mm spindle is a 190mm rear spaced. Most frames 170 or 190mm have a 100mm bottom bracket. 170 frames can run a 100mm spindle with no spacers. a 190mm frame needs to run a 120mm spindle. hope that's clear enough...

  33. #433
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewZorn View Post
    Novatec has a 150mm front hub for fat bikes. BD just didn't use it. Probably just so they could use the same hub/rim combo for more of their bikes. It's disappointing.
    But is the Novatec 150mm hub just the 135 with adapters? Have you seen one in person? The catalog lists a 150mm hub but until you have one in hand how can you know if it is a real 150mm or the same one included on our bikes. Not trying to start an argument, but I doubt Novatec has any other 150mm hub than the one we got on our bikes.

  34. #434
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    I should clarify.. if you want to run 1x on a 190mm frame a 100mm crank spindle is needed to achieve a 170mm spaced Q-factor, like others have said. That's why the new race face cinch system is so popular for fatbikes lately as you can change spindles, chain-rings, spider or no spider etc..

  35. #435
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    Quote Originally Posted by Destr0 View Post
    But is the Novatec 150mm hub just the 135 with adapters? Have you seen one in person? The catalog lists a 150mm hub but until you have one in hand how can you know if it is a real 150mm or the same one included on our bikes. Not trying to start an argument, but I doubt Novatec has any other 150mm hub than the one we got on our bikes.
    Stans older hubs used similar spacers as the ones pictured earlier in this thread. So does hope.. and I'm pretty sure so does the novatec 4 in 1. Grease the O-rings on those spacers a little and that might keep them in a little better.. but a spacer with an O-ring is not a spacer.. it's an endcap..

  36. #436
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    Quote Originally Posted by drmayer View Post
    X9 fat bike crank with new GXP BB. The direct mount ring is intended for a BB30 crank, which means the ring isn't offset toward the centerline of the bike. This gives more chain/tire clearance when running a Lou in the back. That crank probably wouldn't work with 2 rings, it's not wide enough.

    Can someone who is super knowledgeable with these fit questions please answer this for me:

    Just so I understand, it seems we have 100mm BB on these bikes and need 120mm spindle setup (with spacers) so that the chainline is setup correctly because of the 190mm rear spacing. Correct?

    So if I wanted to go to a 1x, say for example get the raceface NW ring and maybe add the 42 cog in the back, what crank size would I need to get? One made for 190mm or 170mm?

    Would love to do this, and get rid of the spacers and just be 1x10, but I don't follow if the chainline would be out of whack...

    Thanks for your input!

  37. #437
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    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread

    Petty question, but anyone near their large/extra large sturgis........ Can you measure the size of the motebecane logo. Length and height.

    Thank you


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

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    Quote Originally Posted by trailwerks View Post
    Petty question, but anyone near their large/extra large sturgis........ Can you measure the size of the motebecane logo. Length and height.

    Thank you


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    My bike is at home but you mean the big logo on the downtube?

  39. #439
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    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Destr0 View Post
    My bike is at home but you mean the big logo on the downtube?
    Yes, exactly.


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    Mine is an XL and I can measure tonight when I get home...

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    Sturgis Bullet update

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-fb2.jpgSturgis Bullet update. Finally got a chance to get out a bit, although I was riding with my 4 yr old son and 6 yr old daughter so no real flogging was done. Doing my pre-ride check I went to adjust the brakes and noticed on the rear that the caliper’s rear mounting bolt boss bumps into the seat stay. This is the Tektro Draco 180mm set up. This is caused by the 180mmm adapter moving the caliper up and reducing clearance to nill. I needed the space to get the brake centered. The fix? I took off the 180mm bracket/disc and put on a 160mm rotor which I think is fine on the rear anyway, problem solved. You could also maybe grind 1-2mm off of the caliper boss without issues, but do so at your own risk. Also with the 180mm rear set-up clearance to the rear caliper bolt is tight. Probably beyond the reach of most multi-tools making field service a no-go or difficult at best. I used a long ball tipped allen wrench which works fine but not something you would pack with you on a ride. Only other adjustments was adding fork air, removing tire air and checking torque for all of the usual bolts. Bike rides nice, derailleur’s were indexing fine, although I’m a SS guy so I didn’t really shift much. Best part is my kids made it 10 miles on single track with a 12” and 16” bike with no real meltdowns.

  42. #442
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    Can anyone with a bluto on a nighttrain measure how much steertube it comes with? Want to make sure itll fit my other chinese carbon frame..

  43. #443
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    Quote Originally Posted by manchvegas View Post
    Can anyone with a bluto on a nighttrain measure how much steertube it comes with? Want to make sure itll fit my other chinese carbon frame..
    That would depend on the frame size - the Sturgis/Nighttrain are the same frame so steer tube would be the same on either as long as it is the same size frame.

    :-)

  44. #444
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    "Best part is my kids made it 10 miles on single track with a 12” and 16” bike with no real meltdowns." -dwilson

    I don't yet have kids but I am getting the itch and that comment cracked me up and made me happy all at the same time.

    As far as the front hub goes, what is everybody's beef with having end-caps to space it out to 150mm? I personally would rather have a hub that could also run 135mm forks if need be. The hub flange spacing is a non-issue since even 100mm hubs have proven plenty durable through the years. The Hope hubs I run on all my other bikes use the same shell with interchangeable guts so that I can run QR, 20mm, or 15mm in the front which is different spacing for the 20mm and the adapters are just a little longer. Same deal with the rear, I can run 150 thru, 135 bolt-on, 135QR, whatever I want and that is the reason I run Hopes is because they can be switched between standards and bikes. I see the hub thing as a positive but I seem to be a minority...

    I also don't understand why 1x is so desireable. I have never had a front derailleur fail and all of my buddies that switched to 1x either ended up walking some of our steeper technical uphills or switched back to 2x because no matter what you are giving up gear range and to me, that means less fun. Maybe I am a bicycle luddite already at 33 years old.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Destr0 View Post
    But is the Novatec 150mm hub just the 135 with adapters? Have you seen one in person? The catalog lists a 150mm hub but until you have one in hand how can you know if it is a real 150mm or the same one included on our bikes. Not trying to start an argument, but I doubt Novatec has any other 150mm hub than the one we got on our bikes.
    I haven't held one in my hand but I have seen pictures in their catalog. A 135mm hub with adapters is not a 150mm hub... especially when you are a hub manufacturer.

    These bottom bracket bearing cups are sealed on with ****ing red Loctite. This is not fun. Build is taking a long time.

  46. #446
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    My problem with the front hub spacers is losing them when I pull the wheel on and off to transport. Now I kinda need to buy a bike rack. Plus it's speced with 150mm not 135mm plus spacers. I just got an email reply from Larry at Bikes Direct and he said the spacers are to run a 15mm through axle fork instead if 9mm. Well duh, why would I use a 9mm qr in the first place, it came with an awesome 15mm TA fork? Whatever, I'm moving on. As for a single ring that's definetly personal preference. Maybe there's no climbs where they're from.

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    I hope we aren't overreacting... has anyone measured the hub yet?

    Edit: flange to flange outer is about 100mm, that's the best I can do right now. Will compare to Novatec catalog later.

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    Spoke to BD this morning and they have no new info on our bikes stuck in customs. They will post updates to Facebook or email us directly.

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    Re: Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread

    Just got my NT Bullet. Not even a scratch from shipping so I was happy about that. I am not 100% positive but I strongly believe that this is a true 150 hub. Those end caps are merely for the thru axle and not to convert a 135 to 150. I have something similar for my hope hoop front wheel hub on my other bike. The end caps were needed to allow for the 20mm axle of the fork.

  50. #450
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    Quote Originally Posted by siv View Post
    My problem with the front hub spacers is losing them when I pull the wheel on and off to transport. Now I kinda need to buy a bike rack. Plus it's speced with 150mm not 135mm plus spacers. I just got an email reply from Larry at Bikes Direct and he said the spacers are to run a 15mm through axle fork instead if 9mm. Well duh, why would I use a 9mm qr in the first place, it came with an awesome 15mm TA fork? Whatever, I'm moving on. As for a single ring that's definetly personal preference. Maybe there's no climbs where they're from.
    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewZorn View Post
    I hope we aren't overreacting... has anyone measured the hub yet?

    Edit: flange to flange outer is about 100mm, that's the best I can do right now. Will compare to Novatec catalog later.

    Nope, time to totally overreact and freak the [email protected]#k out! THEY"RE NOT SPACERS! Its a 150 mm, 4 in 1 hub, that allows you to run multiple axle configurations, which is a good thing. Do some freakin homework.

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    Re: Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    Nope, time to totally overreact and freak the [email protected]#k out! THEY"RE NOT SPACERS! Its a 150 mm, 4 in 1 hub, that allows you to run multiple axle configurations, which is a good thing. Do some freakin homework.
    Thank you for actually measuring.

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  52. #452
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    D101SB = 135mm
    D201SB = 150mm

    ISSUU - Novatec hubs guide 2014 by Novatec

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    Here's a visual aid for the "hard-of-looking-for-$h!+"...

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-novatec.jpg

  54. #454
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    Its cool it's multiple functional but I'm guessing most of us have this bike to save money not run a bunch of different forks etc, and no one is freaking out. So we have the D201SB and D202SB I'm guessing(At work)? I took the rear wheel off once and didn't notice and any end caps whatever like the front. Am I to assume the hubs come with a standard setup in mind with reducers based on desired setup?

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    Re: Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by siv View Post
    Its cool it's multiple functional but I'm guessing most of us have this bike to save money not run a bunch of different forks etc, and no one is freaking out. So we have the D201SB and D202SB I'm guessing(At work)? I took the rear wheel off once and didn't notice and any end caps whatever like the front. Am I to assume the hubs come with a standard setup in mind with reducers based on desired setup?
    We have the 201sb and the hubs are made that way not for your convenience or annoyance but to allow the manufacturer to make one hub for multiple standards.

  56. #456
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    Based on the catalog we did get the 150mm hub - the flange to flange on it is 97.6 vs the 135mm hub has 79mm flange to flange. I know my hub is a lot wider FTF than 79mm - that would only be about half of the overall width on a 150 hub.

    Cheers!

  57. #457
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    Quote Originally Posted by Negotiator50 View Post
    We have the 201sb and the hubs are made that way not for your convenience or annoyance but to allow the manufacturer to make one hub for multiple standards.
    Sounds good, makes sense. I have 2 bikes with 135 qr15 TA and never noticed anything like this, probably because they're not Novatech hubs.

  58. #458
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    So can any of you seasoned Mountain boys give a seasoned roadie a clue on what direction to go with a good seat and post for the NTB? The number of choices are a bit daunting......

  59. #459
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    Quote Originally Posted by gurleyman View Post
    So can any of you seasoned Mountain boys give a seasoned roadie a clue on what direction to go with a good seat and post for the NTB? The number of choices are a bit daunting......
    Best seat around - use it on all my bikes.

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  60. #460
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    It isn't a 135mm in any way. It's definitely the 150mm, thank god. "3-in-1" is printed on the hub.

    Finally done assembling!

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    Re: Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by fripp View Post
    Have it on my dh rig surprisingly light and cheap. It was lighter than the road saddle that Came on my 2014 caad10 105 by 40 grams. Awesome for $26!

  62. #462
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    Nope, time to totally overreact and freak the [email protected]#k out! THEY"RE NOT SPACERS! Its a 150 mm, 4 in 1 hub, that allows you to run multiple axle configurations, which is a good thing. Do some freakin homework.
    i mean, it's not TOTALLY wrong to call them spacers Try putting the wheel on without them...i did, because i didnt see the end caps at first. i was very impatient. then there was all this side to side play and i got scared. Found my spacers ( i mean end caps, whatever!) and all is good. I just worry about losing them, they come over VERY easy.
    fap

  63. #463
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    Agree. The Charge saddles are great & reasonably priced. They make a Ti model for weight wennies.

  64. #464
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    A few random Sturgis and Night Train bullets just got "restocked", if anyone was hoping to grab one.

  65. #465
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    It's 4:47pm, no Nighttrain delivery yet, I've been waiting all day, and now already 6-8 inches of wet heavy snow. I'm afraid my delivery will be cancelled today, so close and yet so far.

  66. #466
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    Mine came in with a single broken spoke on the front. Haven't done the whole serious assembly yet. Just saw that right off. I'll pick some spares up - should have them around anyway.

    Other the that, a quick look - pristine!

    Tomorrow I hope to have time to complete the setup and test ride. Gotta say - on looks - the bike is worth it.... Hope it rides as good as it looks!

  67. #467
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    anyone get there sturgis bullet yet ? I'm still waiting for ups movement on mine

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    Re: Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread

    Took possession of my NTB today and there looks to be a lot of room in the back for larger tires. I'm not sure if that's because the tires that come with the bike run on the small side or this frame can in fact fit very large tires. Anyone put any other tire on the back other than the stock rear tire?

  69. #469
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    On the way. Thanks

  70. #470
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    Holy Eff....there's movement on my tracking number. Due to me on the 14th.

    If yours was one of the "customs" bikes, keep an eye on your tags.
    Last edited by OnThaCouch; 11-10-2014 at 04:54 PM. Reason: so excited that I couldn't type properly...

  71. #471
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    Quote Originally Posted by OnThaCouch View Post
    Holy Eff....there's movement on my tracking number. Due to me on the 14th.

    If yours was one of the "customs" bikes, keep an eye on your tags.
    LOL. Dude that's just cruel.....got all excited and nothin.

  72. #472
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    Quote Originally Posted by gurleyman View Post
    LOL. Dude that's just cruel.....got all excited and nothin.
    Sorry...I know this wait is almost unbearable. I hope you get yours soon too.

  73. #473
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    Quote Originally Posted by OnThaCouch View Post
    Sorry...I know this wait is almost unbearable. I hope you get yours soon too.
    No worries I was laughing about it. I don't have much to complain about. Didn't order mine until 10/21. Can't imagine having waited since july

  74. #474
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    Built mine today. Derailleur hanger was bent. Everything else looks good. Saddle sucked as I expected and I'm not a fan of the riser bars. Gotta go flat and wider. Also the seat post doesn't allow for any tilt. I did drop a pound and a half going from 600+ gram to 280g tubes!

  75. #475
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    It's arrived! NT Bullet

    It's arrived! 19" NT Bullet. Out for delivery at 7:01 am, arrived 7:21 pm. Been on edge all day! Too dark to do any work so just took a picture of the box then my iPhone ran out. Typical! Seems very well packed with plastic bags and cardboard to prevent rubbing. Got out of box and everything looks OK from first appearance but light in my garage is preetty crap. Only thing to note was crank arm caught in spokes of separate front wheel but no damage I could see. There was a smell of grease so something's been lubed but plan to completely dismantle and lube as appropriate. Front disc is in separate bag with screws. Front handlebars separate allthough joined by brake and gear cables. No kinks in cables evident. Box of instructions and spare red rim tape. Tires pumped up and firm. Front end caps in small bag attached to front wheel. Saddle and post in separate bag. I've put on my bike stand and rear wheel rotates freely as does brake disc - no rub. Bluto forks well protected. Will post more pics tomorrow.

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-image.jpg
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    For those of you saying you talked to bikes direct, what number did you call? Not getting a reply to an email for a replacement deralliur hanger
    2010 Stumpjumper Carbon Expert
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    Yeah Sturgis!

    Just got my Sturgis Bluto today, put it together in half an hour and took off!Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-sturgis.jpg

    I literally just had to put on the front wheel and brake, and the handlebars. It rides like its been tuned by a bike shop! No noises at all, smooth shifting.

    Those front spacers are going to be a problem, need to find a way to fix them to the hub. I can easily see a lost spacer ruining a ride. Just taking the front wheel off is dangerous. Can we get spares?

    The Tecktro brakes are great. I don't know if its just because they're new, but they are as smooth as butter.

    Definitely a problem with the seat post hitting the bottle cage braze-ons in the inside of the seat tube. Need to cut the seat post.

    At 5'7" the small fits me perfect, feels like a medium. The steering is different, but when I went back to my Trek Superfly that felt way twitchy.

    I rode our leaf and pinecone strewn trails which are normally treacherous this time of year and I was able to really dig in and never found the breakaway point. Absolute traction, very stable handing, and it just rolls over everything. With the tires pumped to 12lbs I think I was faster than usual, have to ride with the posse to see how it keeps up. Let air down below 10 to smooth out the ride. Pumped them up to 18 and rode some paved roads - no bounce at all.

    I'm not sure I'm ever going back.

  78. #478
    burnedthetoast
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    Quote Originally Posted by jazzer2 View Post
    At 5'7" the small fits me perfect, feels like a medium.
    Hmm. Also 5'7", ordered the medium because I tend to like a more stretched-out feel and the measurements seemed similar to other bikes I fit. Hoping now that wasn't a mistake...
    Ride to Work, Work to Live, Live to Ride

  79. #479
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    Quote Originally Posted by jazzer2 View Post
    Just got my Sturgis Bluto today, put it together in half an hour and took off!Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Sturgis.jpg 
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ID:	938137

    I literally just had to put on the front wheel and brake, and the handlebars. It rides like its been tuned by a bike shop! No noises at all, smooth shifting.

    Those front spacers are going to be a problem, need to find a way to fix them to the hub. I can easily see a lost spacer ruining a ride. Just taking the front wheel off is dangerous. Can we get spares?

    The Tecktro brakes are great. I don't know if its just because they're new, but they are as smooth as butter.

    Definitely a problem with the seat post hitting the bottle cage braze-ons in the inside of the seat tube. Need to cut the seat post.

    At 5'7" the small fits me perfect, feels like a medium. The steering is different, but when I went back to my Trek Superfly that felt way twitchy.

    I rode our leaf and pinecone strewn trails which are normally treacherous this time of year and I was able to really dig in and never found the breakaway point. Absolute traction, very stable handing, and it just rolls over everything. With the tires pumped to 12lbs I think I was faster than usual, have to ride with the posse to see how it keeps up. Let air down below 10 to smooth out the ride. Pumped them up to 18 and rode some paved roads - no bounce at all.

    I'm not sure I'm ever going back.
    Your ride experience is pretty much what I am expecting and excited about. When mine finally does arrive, I will see if some thicker o-rings will help hold those caps on better since I have thousands of o-rings on hand.

    I am starting to think that I should have gotten a Bluto model instead dammit. My goal was light, simple, efficient and tire-based suspension but the more I read the more I feel like maybe I should have coughed up the $300.
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  80. #480
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    Quote Originally Posted by silvbullit View Post
    I am starting to think that I should have gotten a Bluto model instead dammit. My goal was light, simple, efficient and tire-based suspension but the more I read the more I feel like maybe I should have coughed up the $300.
    Here's my thought: right now, the Bluto is pretty much the only game in town - but in a year or so I'm betting there will be at least 3-4 more options. So those of us who wait will either have other, potentially awesomer options, OR can buy a cheaper Bluto off one of the guys who has one now but will want the new shiny in a year.
    Ride to Work, Work to Live, Live to Ride

  81. #481
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    [QUOTE=burnedthetoast;11569631]Hmm. Also 5'7", ordered the medium because I tend to like a more stretched

    I think you'll be fine with a medium, I was expecting the small to be almost too tight.

  82. #482
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    Quote Originally Posted by jazzer2 View Post
    I think you'll be fine with a medium, I was expecting the small to be almost too tight.
    Good to hear!
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  83. #483
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    No movement at all on my tracking number. Night Train, Purple, large

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    Quote Originally Posted by siv View Post
    Great post man, thanks. I'm a machinist so I can make whatever size spacers I want. The only question I have for you is if you go to a 1X. You can't just eliminate the spacers even if you have crank arm to chain stay clearance, won't the spindle wanna stick out through the non drive side of the arm?
    You can't just take out the spacers. You have to get a crank with the right spindle length. The Race Face Turbin/Next CINCH has replaceable spindles. Those are the only two cranks that can go 100/120mm spindle. Apparently the Cannondale Hollogram SI cranks have the same spindle interface as the RF Cinch line and can use a RF Cinch spindle.

  85. #485
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    Quote Originally Posted by neons97 View Post
    You can't just take out the spacers. You have to get a crank with the right spindle length. The Race Face Turbin/Next CINCH has replaceable spindles. Those are the only two cranks that can go 100/120mm spindle. Apparently the Cannondale Hollogram SI cranks have the same spindle interface as the RF Cinch line and can use a RF Cinch spindle.

    Got my XL (21) Matte Black NTB today - first thing I did was throw on my bud / lou combo - bike is a friggin beast! Amazing quality bike, I'm honestly in awe of it! Can't wait to ride!!

    Totally worth every second of the wait time!

  86. #486
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    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread

    While waiting for mine I was looking at the geometry. Does anyone know what head angle is accurate? Bikesdirect list 70.5 for the XL and the motebecane site lists 69.5.


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  87. #487
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    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Destr0 View Post
    Mine is an XL and I can measure tonight when I get home...
    Thank you!


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  88. #488
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    Finally rode mine, was awesome. The tires inspire so much confidence, I basically rode as fast as I could on the downhills. Uphill, the weight was noticeable, but the grip was nice. I'll go tubeless soon I think. I also believe the fork needs more air, so I will also address that before the next ride. Other than a badly scratched seatpost, the bike arrived undamaged. Exchanging the red Loctite for grease on the bottom bracket cups was awful. I am using a 60mm Hussefelt stem and SPD pedals.

    I'm so glad I ordered a medium instead of a small. I'm 5ft 9in with a 29-30in inseam.

    A few more notes:
    - The tires were drastically overinflated in the shipping box, I think it stretched out the rim tape through the holes even, because they pudge out quite a bit even at lower pressure now. Looks weird. But I'll replace it someday anyway.
    - The matte black actually looks awesome, I might not even cover up the ugly MOTOBECANE anymore because the paint actually looks good.
    - The 'spacers' almost stay on, but I'm discouraging myself from trusting that. Taking them off and putting them in my pocket immediately after every tire dismount.
    - The seatpost is in fact very long.
    - I did not receive a remote lockout switch.
    - The Guide brakes are wonderful.
    - Oddly, neither derailleur required any adjustment at all - shifting is great. Maybe I'll study it later to see if it can be improved, but I noticed no issues.

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-.jpg

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    can't wait

    [QUOTE=jazzer2;11569655]
    Quote Originally Posted by burnedthetoast View Post
    Hmm. Also 5'7", ordered the medium because I tend to like a more stretched

    I think you'll be fine with a medium, I was expecting the small to be almost too tight.

    Thanks for the opinions. I am also at 5'7" and waiting on a Med. NT bullet in customs. I am planning on adding a short stem. I got worried again when I saw your post jazzer2.

  90. #490
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    Quote Originally Posted by fripp View Post
    Got my XL (21) Matte Black NTB today - first thing I did was throw on my bud / lou combo - bike is a friggin beast! Amazing quality bike, I'm honestly in awe of it! Can't wait to ride!!

    Totally worth every second of the wait time!
    Pic included with bud/lou
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-img_20141110_191722.jpg  


  91. #491
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    Quote Originally Posted by danny31292 View Post
    Built mine today. Derailleur hanger was bent. Everything else looks good. Saddle sucked as I expected and I'm not a fan of the riser bars. Gotta go flat and wider. Also the seat post doesn't allow for any tilt. I did drop a pound and a half going from 600+ gram to 280g tubes!
    What tubes did you go with...? Thanks.

  92. #492
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    Quote Originally Posted by iCollector View Post
    What tubes did you go with...? Thanks.
    q-tubes (not the super lights). I think they were 2.4-2.7".

  93. #493
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    Re: Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewZorn View Post
    Exchanging the red Loctite for grease on the bottom bracket cups was awful.
    Did you need to do anything special to get the bottom bracket off to grease it?

  94. #494
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    silvbullit - Apologies on the very late reply. This thread blew up over the weekend (no surprise I guess.) I did notice that the 'bubbles' are larger on the front than rear with relatively the same air pressure. I hadn't considered hole diameter, so congratulations: you made me want to go out and check.

    Based on my crappy measurement via tape, they are both 1.25". So likely my tire pressure gauge sucks at sub- 10psi measurement, as I thought I had my front/rear the same. (This assumes that I have larger pressure in the front is causing larger bubbles.)

  95. #495
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    Got mine in today and built/rebuilt it.

    Changed the rim strips to glow in the dark tape backed by translucent duct tape. (GID tape from amazon, duct tape from amazon)

    Switched the tires to on-one floaters and surly tubes I already had. Will eventually go tubeless but with different rims.

    • Had to clean+lube the bottom bracket threads. Highly recommend this otherwise noise down the road and harder to get it off later.
    • Rear brake was rubbing out of the box but quick to adjust.


    Here are a few pics of Frosty the SnowBike and my wife's new XS mukluk, Beasty:
    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-img_0338x1024.jpg

    With added black light:
    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-1024.jpg

    Black light only. Stays glowing a little dimmer than this at it's best charge but lasts a while:
    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-img_0345x1024.jpg

  96. #496
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    Quote Originally Posted by Negotiator50 View Post
    Did you need to do anything special to get the bottom bracket off to grease it?
    Just a bottom bracket tool like the BBT-19

  97. #497
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    A while back, someone asked about the seat tube and I couldn't find the post. Couple of folks are already on the same page: you'll likely want to cut the tube.

    I cut 4" off of my donor, Thompson Elite post. That's one way to shave off 46g...

  98. #498
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    Re: Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread

    Drove 40 minutes to pick me NTB up from Saginaw. Everything is perfect and the bike/wheels feel lighter than expected, even in stock form.

    The reach is LONG on these IMO. I figured on swapping to a shorter stem and wider bars. The numbers suggest the front end is more stretched out, relative to the Fatboy, yet these come with much longer stems. I hate the feel of long stems, as you are swinging the bars around a radius, rather than turning them. Swapped out to a 750mm/85mm combo, and it's more like what I'm used to. Easier to hop and manual, and more direct steering. Might have reduced self steer, or maybe that's in my head...

    I'm on a flat black rig, but I'm loving the lighter option, as it shows the shape of the rear triangle better, which looks sweet.

    At 200 lbs, I put 150psi in the bluto, but still used most of the travel hopping around in the yard. The geo is better for stand and mash climbing than the large pugs it replaced. I can be sloppy with my body position without losing traction. Pretty happy right now.

  99. #499
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    Quote Originally Posted by gurleyman View Post
    LOL. Dude that's just cruel.....got all excited and nothin.
    Finally have movement! Mine is also due to arrive on Friday, the 14!!
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  100. #500
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    My bike is officially "late" was told shipped by the 10th.. still no movement at all on my tracking #.. med silver nighttrain

  101. #501
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    All of the silver night train bullets must be held up because I haven't seen a single one yet.

  102. #502
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    Cool-blue Rhythm

    Quote Originally Posted by NH Mtbiker View Post
    Finally have movement! Mine is also due to arrive on Friday, the 14!!
    Well if I get lucky enough to see movement it should show up the next day. I'm just 4hrs from Dallas.

  103. #503
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    @manchvegas, beachbum1 - There's a bunch of stuff I haven't seen yet (waiting on an orange sturgis myself). Also, it really doesn't matter what your ship time said... that was an estimate! What matters is when the bikes make it from customs to BD and get shipped.
    Ride to Work, Work to Live, Live to Ride

  104. #504
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    can someone please measure the steertube length on the bluto on a med nighttrain?

  105. #505
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tin Turtle View Post
    No movement at all on my tracking number. Night Train, Purple, large
    Hey Tin, post up a lotta pics on that purple beaut when it arrives. I wanna see it in natural light. Thnx
    “NICE ASS!”

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  106. #506
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    Quote Originally Posted by manchvegas View Post
    can someone please measure the steertube length on the bluto on a med nighttrain?
    8 inches

  107. #507
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    Quote Originally Posted by beachbum1 View Post
    All of the silver night train bullets must be held up because I haven't seen a single one yet.
    Mine is a silver NTB, 17.5". On it's way. Due here in CA on Friday.

  108. #508
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    Quote Originally Posted by beachbum1 View Post
    All of the silver night train bullets must be held up because I haven't seen a single one yet.
    Not true....mine departed TX this morning, so keep a close eye on tracking.
    17 Fuel EX 9.9 (in progress)
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    https://kettleheadbrewing.com/

  109. #509
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    Update below from Bikes Direct via email for those checking this page, facebook, and bikes direct multiple times daily like me....

    Hi
    Thanks for your reply.
    We received an update from our CEO a few minutes ago. He told us he is keeping a very close watch on these and that they should be unloading in our Dallas TX warehouse this Friday.
    As soon as they land, we will ship them and email all customers.

  110. #510
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    Quote Originally Posted by beachbum1 View Post
    All of the silver night train bullets must be held up because I haven't seen a single one yet.
    Haven't seen a red one yet either (what I'm waiting for).
    Hoping it's red like the swatch they posted and not orange-y like the bike they have on the page.

  111. #511
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tin Turtle View Post
    No movement at all on my tracking number. Night Train, Purple, large
    Likewise for me (same bike/size)

  112. #512
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    Quote Originally Posted by beachbum1 View Post
    Update below from Bikes Direct via email for those checking this page, facebook, and bikes direct multiple times daily like me....

    Hi
    Thanks for your reply.
    We received an update from our CEO a few minutes ago. He told us he is keeping a very close watch on these and that they should be unloading in our Dallas TX warehouse this Friday.
    As soon as they land, we will ship them and email all customers.
    Dangit... was hoping it would land in my driveway by Friday. Ah well, next week is better than the week after!
    Ride to Work, Work to Live, Live to Ride

  113. #513
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    Several times...

  114. #514
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    Now I understand what all the fuss is about. Those front spacer/end caps fit on the hub really loose. Noob question; can I just epoxy them on? Would it interfere with future maintenance or something down the road?

  115. #515
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    FYI for those of you with bent derailleur hangers. They don't have any yet and hope to get them in and shipped this week for people who had an issue.
    2010 Stumpjumper Carbon Expert
    1998 Stumpjumer Comp
    2012 Airborne Wingman
    2014 Motobecane Night Train Bullet

  116. #516
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    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread

    If anyone has a non-bullet version, can you measure the axle to crown dimension of the rigid fork?

  117. #517
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    chainring

    Anyone know what i could replace the 36T chainring with from the Nighttrain bullet? I'd love to switch it out for a 32T (or even 30T) ring

    Just don't not that knowledgeable in this area (can do the install, not the selection).

    Also, I want to keep the 22t granny, so the replacement would need to handle that being bolted onto it I'm guessing.

    First steps for me was looking for bcd 104/64 30 or 32T ring - good place to start?

    If anyone has any suggested rings, that'd be wicked.

  118. #518
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    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...BXSE00WZFBCJMH

    This is the chainring I am tempted to try. I am guessing it will fit, but may need some filing depending on the crank arm profile...

  119. #519
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    But that one won't allow the 22T granny to stick around will it?

  120. #520
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    NT Bullet out of box pictures

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-image.jpgMotobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-image.jpgMotobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-image.jpgMotobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-image.jpgMotobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-image.jpg
    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-image.jpgMotobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-image.jpgMotobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-image.jpg

    I'll post more as I build if anyone is interested
    Fat Bike for a Fat Bloke

  121. #521
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    Quote Originally Posted by fripp View Post
    But that one won't allow the 22T granny to stick around will it?
    I believe it will - that is not the narrow wide chainring, but the one with ramps. It should have the same 104mm bolt pattern as the old one... I may just pull my 32 T ring off of my 29er to test fit - the 29er will probably not see much use for a while with the new toy and winter. I have a Race Face crank with 22/32/bash ring on the 29er so I believe that is the same chainring as I linked to (or very close to same thing).

  122. #522
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    Quote Originally Posted by fripp View Post
    Anyone know what i could replace the 36T chainring with from the Nighttrain bullet? I'd love to switch it out for a 32T (or even 30T) ring

    Just don't not that knowledgeable in this area (can do the install, not the selection).

    Also, I want to keep the 22t granny, so the replacement would need to handle that being bolted onto it I'm guessing.

    First steps for me was looking for bcd 104/64 30 or 32T ring - good place to start?

    If anyone has any suggested rings, that'd be wicked.
    This is 30T Im using...works great no dropped chains. I ordered the red bolts as well to accent the ring.

    104 BCD Chainrings ? wolftoothcomponents.com

    Has a built in offset so the chain will clear the spider...highly recommend it. Gives you a chainline of about 76mm. But you will lose the 22 so if 1x10 is something your thinking of trying its a great option.

  123. #523
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    If you do, please update!

    Thanks!

  124. #524
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    I'm just curious, why do you want to switch out the 36 for a 30? I'm really happy with the gearing as it is, and I'm using all of them. But I'm curious as to why you folks are making this change.

  125. #525
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    I don't like using the granny and the 36T is too hard (cry)

    I'm used to the 32 I use on my 29er I suppose.

    30 or 32 would do the trick. This fatbike is a lot of work on the legs compared to the 29er!

  126. #526
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    Quote Originally Posted by pearsth View Post
    FYI for those of you with bent derailleur hangers. They don't have any yet and hope to get them in and shipped this week for people who had an issue.
    Is it me or are the these hangars ridiculously fragile? Never considering buying spars for my other bikes. It was too easy to bend this one back...

  127. #527
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    Quote Originally Posted by fripp View Post
    I don't like using the granny and the 36T is too hard (cry)

    I'm used to the 32 I use on my 29er I suppose.

    30 or 32 would do the trick. This fatbike is a lot of work on the legs compared to the 29er!
    I changed to a 34t front at first thinkings its similar to my 29er but I made that switch to a 30T fast! I was practically in the 42 and 36 cog almost the entire time in this one area on the trail I take. That is no good!

  128. #528
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    I ran doubles and triples for a long time with standard gears and decided to try a single up front. When I got my last Speshy 29er I tried 1x10 with a 32t and have never looked back. Absolutely love the simplicity.

  129. #529
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    Stoked. When they mentioned there were a few extra bikes on Facebook I went and refreshed the page. Got the 1 over stock 15.5" NTB in black.
    Ordered yesterday and it's due on Friday!

  130. #530
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    So much for a completely positive experience. Snapped the chain today at the beginning of my second ride (about 1 hour on bike total). Wouldn't have been so bad if I didn't drop the master link into the leaves and lose it forever. Once I broke then chain again and repaired it again, it didn't even last long enough to get back to the car. Walked out. I'll be emailing BD tomorrow to ask for reimbursement. I know it's technically KMC that failed, but this is way too soon.

    Also, used a high pressure pump/gauge to check my fork today. It was pretty low pressure, lower than the lowest (<140lbs) part of the chart on the fork. So now i'ts much stiffer and not bottoming out. Speaking of which, what pressure are you guys running? Even at 10psi, these tires feel FIRM, much harder than other fat bike tires at similar pressure, from what I recall. I want to go lower, but wasn't in the experimenting mood after my 2-hour chain ordeal.

  131. #531
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewZorn View Post
    So much for a completely positive experience. Snapped the chain today at the beginning of my second ride (about 1 hour on bike total). Wouldn't have been so bad if I didn't drop the master link into the leaves and lost it forever. Once I broke then chain again and repaired it again, it didn't even last long enough to get back to the car. Walked out. I'll be emailing BD tomorrow to ask for reimbursement. I know it's technically KMC that failed, but this is way too soon.
    Did you properly adjust the derailleur first? I seriously doubt the chain failed. Poor shifting technique and misaligned derailleurs are usually to blame.

  132. #532
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    It seemed good, shifting is smooth, no grinding or anything... I've never had a chain break before, and I've beat on some poorly set up drivetrains pretty hard. Seriously, 1 hour of use. I'd like to see someone try​ to break a chain using only the pedals within one hour.

    If you're referring to the chain failing again, I don't trust repaired chains. I just wanted it to hold out for more than a couple minutes so I didn't have to walk. Didn't happen.

  133. #533
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    Did you clean and grease the chain? The factory lube on most chains is really thick and crappy.

  134. #534
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    Quote Originally Posted by Destr0 View Post
    Did you clean and grease the chain? The factory lube on most chains is really thick and crappy.
    I did.

    I don't see why this is so hard to believe, even the best stuff has a non-zero failure rate. I might be the unluckiest KMC owner in the world, but it had to be somebody.

    I'll reiterate: one hour of riding. I could lube the chain with salt and honey and it would still last more than an hour on any bike.

    I'll check the drivetrain again tomorrow... but this is still definitely a premature failure.

  135. #535
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    OH I believe you - I had the exact same problem this spring on a brand new SRAM chain - broke on the first ride, but mine was due to chain suck and the factory lube on a really dusty trail. :-) I fixed the chain but I believe I stressed it too much and it broke again 3X in the next month. I trashed it and bought a Wipermann Connex and no issues since.

  136. #536
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewZorn View Post
    Speaking of which, what pressure are you guys running? Even at 10psi, these tires feel FIRM, much harder than other fat bike tires at similar pressure, from what I recall.
    Swapping to lighter 2.7" q tubes (which drops 1.5lb) changed the tire feel a lot.

  137. #537
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    Just back in house from driving 2 miles thru 12 inches of snow from winter storm astro to meet the ups man and pick up my Night Train. The box looks in good shape after bouncing around in the local truck for the last 2 days. It was out for delivery monday but deliveries were snowed out yesterday. Not sure if all this snow is a good sign or not for a bike that I ordered just for that purpose.

  138. #538
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    Quote Originally Posted by danny31292 View Post
    Swapping to lighter 2.7" q tubes (which drops 1.5lb) changed the tire feel a lot.
    I have heard a lot about these, but am not sure how I feel about reliability... I mean, unlike a frame, it's pretty easy to engineer and manufacture a thinner tube. Why wouldn't everyone do this?

    But I am so concerned about the mess of sealant that I might just do that instead of going tubeless. Maybe soon, because like I said, these 10psi tires are really really firm. Got bucked off the bike today because the rear end bounced up. It might be an overstatement to say "I crashed because of the tires" but the rear end especially isn't as grippy as I think it could be.

  139. #539
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    Does the Sturgis/NT frameset come with Rear Rack Seatstay Braze-ons, like the Boris frameset?

  140. #540
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    Quote Originally Posted by nzxt View Post
    Does the Sturgis/NT frameset come with Rear Rack Seatstay Braze-ons, like the Boris frameset?
    I'm not looking at it now, but pretty sure not. I am going to get some rubber-coated p-clips.

  141. #541
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    RRRRRRREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEED Sturgis Bullet pics PLEEEEEZ!
    “NICE ASS!”

    -Sheriff Buford T. Justice

  142. #542
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    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread

    Any more weights on these? Looking bullet with a bluto. XL.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

  143. #543
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    Quote Originally Posted by coot271 View Post
    RRRRRRREEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEED Sturgis Bullet pics PLEEEEEZ!
    This X2! Waiting on my Red Sturgis Bullet. I can't wait to see the red finish in person after seeing the white and gunmetal pics.

  144. #544
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    Any decent cheap carbon bars/stems/seat posts out there? I got pretty beat up on the rocky trails the other day, I'm use to suspension.

  145. #545
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    so when someone mentioned that you need to use spacers on the front wheel axle, does that mean if you change a flat tire on the front wheel, and you lose the spacer, that you can no longer ride the bike.....???

  146. #546
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    Quote Originally Posted by siv View Post
    Any decent cheap carbon bars/stems/seat posts out there? I got pretty beat up on the rocky trails the other day, I'm use to suspension.
    E-Bay. I got XXX Bontrager seat post for $32 w/ shipping. I cannot tell the difference between it and the $200 Bontrager XXX on my other bike.

  147. #547
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    Quote Originally Posted by nzxt View Post
    so when someone mentioned that you need to use spacers on the front wheel axle, does that mean if you change a flat tire on the front wheel, and you lose the spacer, that you can no longer ride the bike.....???
    Correct, that's why it kinda sucks.

  148. #548
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    Re: Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewZorn View Post
    I did.

    I don't see why this is so hard to believe...
    ... I'll check the drivetrain again tomorrow... but this is still definitely a premature failure.
    Your chain snapped, get over it. Consider it a lesson: I always travel with two quick links in my seat bag.
    If nothing else you can help out some other poor sob who is stuck on the trail!

  149. #549
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    Quote Originally Posted by danny31292 View Post
    Is it me or are the these hangars ridiculously fragile?
    Finally! My NTB arrived today. First thing I noticed was a brake lever poking out through the shipping box. Seems to be no damage though. Second thing I noticed was my BENT Derailleur Hanger. Arghhhh. The mech was pushed into the spokes. I took pics and emailed them to BD. In the mean time I decide to put on a lighter rim strip, Q-Light Tube, and Bud. Oh looking good for about an hour. Tube lost air. Seam split. WTF I'm going to bed.

  150. #550
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    Quote Originally Posted by tfinator View Post
    Your chain snapped, get over it. Consider it a lesson: I always travel with two quick links in my seat bag.
    If nothing else you can help out some other poor sob who is stuck on the trail!

    Why two?

  151. #551
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewZorn View Post
    I have heard a lot about these, but am not sure how I feel about reliability... I mean, unlike a frame, it's pretty easy to engineer and manufacture a thinner tube. Why wouldn't everyone do this?
    Maybe I'm just lucky, but I've been riding the same q-tubes super light for 3 years and have never had a single flat.

  152. #552
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    Re: Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by Traktor View Post
    Why two?
    For the poor guy who broke his. And you still have one. Or if something crazy is going on with your drive train and you actually need that many.
    Also they come in packs of six so why not?

  153. #553
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    Tracking my NTB and it just departed Earth City Missouri! Stoked!!
    17 Fuel EX 9.9 (in progress)
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    https://kettleheadbrewing.com/

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    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-r1.jpg  

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-r2.jpg  

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-r3.jpg  


  155. #555
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    I had first ordered the WR Green Sturgis rigid. I reluctantly traded the color for white to get the Bluto. Can someone post a picture of the green sturgis in the wild?

  156. #556
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    You guys think these are the same as the q tubes? XLC tubes.
    One Pair of 26"X2 3 2 75" XLC Bicycle Tubes 48mm Presta Valve Bike Tubes New Q | eBay

  157. #557
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    Sharp!

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    Do bike seats break in or is it me? The first day I rode my Sturgis, I thought the stock seat had to go. Now it's not bothering me so I probably won't replace it. Right now I'm not concerned with reducing the weight of the bike.

  159. #559
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    Quote Originally Posted by tresrios View Post
    red
    YES!
    “NICE ASS!”

    -Sheriff Buford T. Justice

  160. #560
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    Quote Originally Posted by ETChipotle View Post
    Do bike seats break in or is it me?
    Yes.

    With some exceptions (I've had saddles where the fact it didn't work for me was VERY evident within 5 miles). But otherwise - you're adapting to something different, and the seat is (usually) getting sat on for the first time, so it may change slightly as you get some miles on it.

    Unless you have a Brooks, in which case it'll take a few hundred miles to break in
    Ride to Work, Work to Live, Live to Ride

  161. #561
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    Are you guys really saving weight with different rim strips other than stock? And where can you find em? I've searched and can't find anything but surly..

  162. #562
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    Quote Originally Posted by tfinator View Post
    Your chain snapped, get over it. Consider it a lesson: I always travel with two quick links in my seat bag.
    If nothing else you can help out some other poor sob who is stuck on the trail!
    I don't understand the "get over it" attitude... I was making conversation about something that happened to my bike, the bike we are all talking about here.

    But yes, buying a few links (since I lost the ones from the chain I just broke).

  163. #563
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewZorn View Post
    I don't understand the "get over it" attitude... I was making conversation about something that happened to my bike, the bike we are all talking about here.

    But yes, buying a few links (since I lost the ones from the chain I just broke).
    It's great having angry people that don't really help here ya know? If the questions annoy you then don't comment. As far as your chain I'd check the length, probably too many links plus it's a long cage deraileur. I'll go medium cage once this brakes or wears out.

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    Re: Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewZorn View Post
    I don't understand the "get over it" attitude... I was making conversation about something that happened to my bike, the bike we are all talking about here.

    But yes, buying a few links (since I lost the ones from the chain I just broke).
    Sorry, your op was super negative that you weren't satisfied with the bike, and as it turns out your broke a chain (I admit that sucks, but you should never go out without spare links) and that you pumped up the tires too high.

    Seemed like a lot of user error.

  165. #565
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    Quote Originally Posted by tfinator View Post
    Sorry, your op was super negative that you weren't satisfied with the bike, and as it turns out your broke a chain (I admit that sucks, but you should never go out without spare links) and that you pumped up the tires too high.

    Seemed like a lot of user error.
    Just be nice bro, we're not roadies here ;-) And another thing, get a chain stay protector right away. My paint is already all dinged up under the top of the chain.

  166. #566
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    Quote Originally Posted by Destr0 View Post
    I believe it will - that is not the narrow wide chainring, but the one with ramps. It should have the same 104mm bolt pattern as the old one... I may just pull my 32 T ring off of my 29er to test fit - the 29er will probably not see much use for a while with the new toy and winter. I have a Race Face crank with 22/32/bash ring on the 29er so I believe that is the same chainring as I linked to (or very close to same thing).

    Any chance you tried this yet?

  167. #567
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    Quote Originally Posted by tfinator View Post
    Sorry, your op was super negative that you weren't satisfied with the bike, and as it turns out your broke a chain (I admit that sucks, but you should never go out without spare links) and that you pumped up the tires too high.

    Seemed like a lot of user error.
    Original post just said that my initial period of honeymoon perfection had ended.

    Tires are at 10psi and I hesitate to go lower because I don't think many others have, and I weigh 170lbs and ride on dirt trails. You have no indication that the broken chain was user error.

    Thanks for assuming so much.

    Quote Originally Posted by siv View Post
    And another thing, get a chain stay protector right away. My paint is already all dinged up under the top of the chain.
    Ugh, now I'm afraid to check mine. I saw it had one of the stickers on top, but should have known that wouldn't do anything. At least if I do get a protector, I won't see any damage underneath. It's just like the phone case / car bra paradox.

    A couple pictures I took yesterday, rode on sand a little by a lake.

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-2014-11-11-15.37.08.jpgMotobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-2014-11-11-15.37.26.jpg

  168. #568
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    New question for you veteran fat bikers-

    I bought my bike for winter like everyone else, but I also wanted to use it year round for variety with my other 29er etc.

    I rode 12 miles on my single track trails, which are pretty much like everyone elses, some rocks, lots of roots, log overs etc etc.

    When I started, I had both wheels at 12 psi. Felt a little bouncy to me, much different than my 29er. So i lowered both wheels to 8 psi and although less bouncy, the rear still bounced more than I was used to. Plus, at 8psi I noticed the sluggishness of pedaling this badboy a lot more!

    I had the bluto at 110psi and noticed from the sag ring (which i used for 20% sag initially), that i was going nowhere near the 120mm travel. The little ring barely made it up to the 3/4 mark, and i was hitting some decent spots. Anyway, I took air out of the bluto, setting it to 90psi and noticed a got closer to the limit of the travel but never bottomed out. The front also felt much less bouncy.

    I guess the main questions i have are:

    Did I prematurely lower the tire pressure too quickly before trying to alter the bluto pressure? I'm starting to wonder if we need to go so low with tire pressure when using the bluto. (at least on trail with no snow)?

    Does the rear bounciness just not go away and I'm just not used to it? I felt like I was going to get tossed off the bike once in while. Not endo inducing, but thrown forwards a bit.

    Thanks for any help!

  169. #569
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    Quote Originally Posted by AndrewZorn View Post
    Tires are at 10psi and I hesitate to go lower because I don't think many others have.

    You have no indication that the broken chain was user error.

    Thanks for assuming so much.
    I've run this exact setup down to 5 psi in snow - normal trail psi's (on a real 15 psi low pressure presta gauge) are around 9 rear and 8 psi front. If I know I'm just riding around town or going to be on buffed dirt paths, then maybe 12 psi at upper end - and I find even that to be harsh.

    The rims strips weigh around 160g each - ditch em. Duck tape and clear packing tape to back up will save you over half a pound of rotational weight alone.

  170. #570
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    Quote Originally Posted by watermonkey View Post
    I've run this exact setup down to 5 psi in snow - normal trail psi's (on a real 15 psi low pressure presta gauge) are around 9 rear and 8 psi front. If I know I'm just riding around town or going to be on buffed dirt paths, then maybe 12 psi at upper end - and I find even that to be harsh.

    The rims strips weigh around 160g each - ditch em. Duck tape and clear packing tape to back up will save you over half a pound of rotational weight alone.
    Thanks, I'll try 8/9 today. I got that cheap 15psi gauge from Amazon someone else suggested. Can't wait to go either lightweight tubes or tubeless... but getting in as much riding as possible before it gets cold, upgrades can wait!

  171. #571
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    Fripp. is your 29'er a hardtail or full squish? if so, certainly it will feel different..
    continue to play around with pressure.. all I really do is pump it up to 13-14.. and let air out a bit until it feels good.. with the trails around here, I keep it about 10,,, once snow is around, down to 6 or so depending..

    some say you may alter your peddling... more spinning not mashing.... I haven't tried out my sturgis yet so can't comment on the bluto or not.. but keep tweaking pressure....

  172. #572
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    Bounciness in the rear is usually from too much pressure - I am running about 12 PSI in the rear (with a low pressure gauge) and 15 up front. You are correct in that the Bluto works best with more pressure than if the bike were setup rigid (or mine does and that is what I have read the general consensus is). I tried lower PSI but was getting a lot of self steer - I also weigh 240lbs, probably 255+ with my gear. I get a bit of bounce when pedaling but just need some practice with my cadence.

    Yeah I did my rim strips with just duct tape (two layers, sticky side to sticky side). Only downside is that if I have to remove it I will have to cut it off, but not that big of a deal - duct tape is cheap and I can always tape the seam back together. :-) As far as the Bluto and air - I set mine to 135PSI and the feel seemed right but I was only using 3/4 of the travel on fairly large drops/logs - but if I let air out it felt too loose and sloppy. I ordered some bottomless tokens to try and get it to ramp up more with less air.

  173. #573
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    Hardtail. Thanks for the tips!

  174. #574
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    I will try higher tire pressure at least in the front and see what happens with the sluginess. Perhaps its just me that needs to get used to a new rig too!

  175. #575
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    Cool on the duct tape... so what exactly are you guys using? Just favorite color duct tape sticky side up then clear packing tape? Like the stuff the post office uses? With webbing.or no webbing? Or just clear duct tape?

  176. #576
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    Quote Originally Posted by skywardx View Post
    This is 30T Im using...works great no dropped chains. I ordered the red bolts as well to accent the ring.

    104 BCD Chainrings ? wolftoothcomponents.com

    Has a built in offset so the chain will clear the spider...highly recommend it. Gives you a chainline of about 76mm. But you will lose the 22 so if 1x10 is something your thinking of trying its a great option.
    Is there a reason why the 22 has to go when this is used? Just curious, since the 22 is screwed into the spider right behind this ring, why does it have to go?

    I'm going to guess that its a shifting issue?

  177. #577
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    Quote Originally Posted by manchvegas View Post
    Cool on the duct tape... so what exactly are you guys using? Just favorite color duct tape sticky side up then clear packing tape? Like the stuff the post office uses? With webbing.or no webbing? Or just clear duct tape?
    I used this duct tape - found it at Wal-Mart, link provided so You can see what was used:

    http://smile.amazon.com/Scotch-Duct-...tman+duct+tape

    For the backing I used standard duct tape in bright yellow, as I wanted the batman logo to stand out and was afraid if I used a dark color it could dull the color.


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    It said in the specs that these bikes also come with red rim tape. For those of you that have received it, is this true?

  179. #579
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    bat bike

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    That is correct - my Sturgis Bullet came with black installed and red rim strips in the box. :-) Not using either - see above.

  181. #581
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    Yup, they give you a red set too. Nicer than the black ones in my opinion. (I changed tires so figured i might as well go red)

  182. #582
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    Quote Originally Posted by wildskycomet View Post
    bat bike
    Exactly. My other fat bike will be a Superman bike and I have the Superman Duct tape waiting to go on it- A quick photo hack using MS Paint of my Bucksaw build (shameless Bucksaw plug - still a couple months waiting to go on it):

    Motobecane Sturgis / Night Train Thread-bucksaw1_introducing.jpg

  183. #583
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    I sort of asked this earlier in looking for different chain ring replacement for the Nighttrain 36 and keeping the granny... but if I was to go 1x, does anyone have any experience with a 30T chainring up front (with or without a 42 hack in the back)?

    If not this bike, any other?

    I feel like i got my ass kicked yesterday riding my new NTB, and was always looking for a lower gear but didn't want to switch down to granny.

  184. #584
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    I have been riding my 29er all summer only using the 32T ring to build muscle strength to get ready for my 1X10 setup on the Bucksaw w/ 30T. I am going to try tonight to see if my RF 32T ring from my 29er will swap onto the Sturgis Samox cranks without too much issue while keeping the 2x10 setup. I will report back tonight or tomorrow. My Wed night ride is cancelled due to rain (trails closed). The 36T is a bit much and I kept wishing the gearing was a bit lower so I wouldn't have to drop to the granny gear. Granny gear is too low most of the time and the 36T is too big most of the time, based on my 18 or so miles of trails this weekend. :-)

  185. #585
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    Quote Originally Posted by Destr0 View Post
    I have been riding my 29er all summer only using the 32T ring to build muscle strength to get ready for my 1X10 setup on the Bucksaw w/ 30T. I am going to try tonight to see if my RF 32T ring from my 29er will swap onto the Sturgis Samox cranks without too much issue while keeping the 2x10 setup. I will report back tonight or tomorrow. My Wed night ride is cancelled due to rain (trails closed). The 36T is a bit much and I kept wishing the gearing was a bit lower so I wouldn't have to drop to the granny gear. Granny gear is too low most of the time and the 36T is too big most of the time, based on my 18 or so miles of trails this weekend. :-)
    You da man! Thanks for following up - I agree with everything you said. With my 29'er i'm at 32 up front and 11-32 in back (9 speed) and I never really go into the 32 in the back (or very rarely). But with the NTB I walked a few hills and wondered if I was just gettin old!

  186. #586
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    Same here - I walked a few hills then said screw it, I'm dumping to the granny next hill. Chugged up all of them but decided there has to be a better way. :-)

    Then I did a dangerous thing - I started thinking what I could do with it. Stealing parts off a bike I probably will not ride again until spring seems like a viable option. :-)

  187. #587
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    Quote Originally Posted by Destr0 View Post
    Same here - I walked a few hills then said screw it, I'm dumping to the granny next hill. Chugged up all of them but decided there has to be a better way. :-)

    Then I did a dangerous thing - I started thinking what I could do with it. Stealing parts off a bike I probably will not ride again until spring seems like a viable option. :-)
    Yeah, once you open up a session on the Sheldon Brown Gear Ratio Calculator page, its game over for your wallet! I'd have many many options if it wasn't for just buying a brand new bike!!!!

  188. #588
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    Quote Originally Posted by fripp View Post
    Yeah, once you open up a session on the Sheldon Brown Gear Ratio Calculator page, its game over for your wallet! I'd have many many options if it wasn't for just buying a brand new bike!!!!
    You're not kidding there - the pile of parts for the Bucksaw build make the cost of the Sturgis look small, and that doesn't include the price of the frame. That and I just bought my son a Salsa Horsethief AND a Pugsley. This bike hobby ain't cheap. I am about $10K into bikes since July. :-)

  189. #589
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    Quote Originally Posted by Destr0 View Post
    You're not kidding there - the pile of parts for the Bucksaw build make the cost of the Sturgis look small, and that doesn't include the price of the frame. That and I just bought my son a Salsa Horsethief AND a Pugsley. This bike hobby ain't cheap. I am about $10K into bikes since July. :-)
    Any thought to leaving the 36T in front and adding the 42 add on in the back instead of going to a smaller chainring?

  190. #590
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    Quote Originally Posted by fripp View Post
    Any thought to leaving the 36T in front and adding the 42 add on in the back instead of going to a smaller chainring?
    It is a thought but for now I think I will try the free mod and see where that takes me. :-) Not ruling out the wolftooth 42 option, but my bike budget is at zero per my wife until well into the next year (other than fixing broken things, I may "break" my cassette soon).

  191. #591
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    It is now the latest day that the BD order page indicated the bikes would ship. I am now transitioning from excitedly anxious to slightly annoyed that my bike hasn't shipped yet.
    '10 Specialized Big Hit 33lbs
    '12 Santa Cruz Butcher 30lbs
    '13 On One 456 EVO hardtail 27lbs
    '95 Barracuda Hardtail 25lbs

  192. #592
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    Quote Originally Posted by Destr0 View Post
    It is a thought but for now I think I will try the free mod and see where that takes me. :-) Not ruling out the wolftooth 42 option, but my bike budget is at zero per my wife until well into the next year (other than fixing broken things, I may "break" my cassette soon).
    Okay cool - again let me know - looks to me like it would work too from just looking at it. But you never know, could get some rub on the spider if not offset enough.

    Sounds like your wife is pretty reasonable anyway. Just tell her its for your son's bike - can't say no to a healthy growing boy!

  193. #593
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    Quote Originally Posted by fripp View Post
    Okay cool - again let me know - looks to me like it would work too from just looking at it. But you never know, could get some rub on the spider if not offset enough.

    Sounds like your wife is pretty reasonable anyway. Just tell her its for your son's bike - can't say no to a healthy growing boy!


    What about swapping the 22 out for say , a 28T (64bcd)? Any point or would that work?

  194. #594
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    don't know why all the hate against dropping down to granny ring... it is there for a reason folks.... if you plan on riding in snow,, whether unplowed streets, fresh powder or groomed trails, you are going to want some gears that you can spin in... too much torque in those situations. get you no where.... not bashing going 1x, tossing on a 42 in back,, if it works where you ride and works for your wallet great... but I am just suggesting that you wait and ride.. the conditions you will ride with current set up.. before you spend the time and money changing things out... just my opinion....

  195. #595
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    Quote Originally Posted by twright205 View Post
    don't know why all the hate against dropping down to granny ring... it is there for a reason folks.... if you plan on riding in snow,, whether unplowed streets, fresh powder or groomed trails, you are going to want some gears that you can spin in... too much torque in those situations. get you no where.... not bashing going 1x, tossing on a 42 in back,, if it works where you ride and works for your wallet great... but I am just suggesting that you wait and ride.. the conditions you will ride with current set up.. before you spend the time and money changing things out... just my opinion....
    I agree with keeping the granny if possible. I just really wanted to lose the 36 is all and make it a 32. I find 36 isn't easy enough, and riding in the 22 all the time seems weird. Yeah, the granny will come in useful in the snow, but I guess right now I am trying to solve the my non-snow trail problem. I thought maybe switching out for a higher granny (like a 28) and then keep it in that ring for most of my trail riding, including snow.

  196. #596
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    I'm also interested in swapping the 36 out for a 32 or even(gasp) a 30. It would be much simpler to stay in the 22t front ring for most things and then just shifting up to 30 or 32t up front when I start spinning out.

  197. #597
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    Quote Originally Posted by beachbum1 View Post
    I'm also interested in swapping the 36 out for a 32 or even(gasp) a 30. It would be much simpler to stay in the 22t front ring for most things and then just shifting up to 30 or 32t up front when I start spinning out.
    Not sure you can get a 30T that isn't a 1x solution only.

    I'd gladly like to say I'm wrong though and find a 30T ring to just replace the 36T with. If anyone knows of one, please yell it out!

  198. #598
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    NO hate for the granny gear really - I just am investing a lot of cash in my Bucksaw build and want to make sure I am ready for 1X10 w/ 30 up front before it gets here. It will be a three season bike and the Moto Sturgis will be a winter bike - 36 seems too steep - I have 32/22 and I like that combo (albeit only 9 spd) on my 29er hard tail.
    I have no plans to make the Sturgis a 1X rig - just want to get a gearing I will be happy with, and as I have a 22/32 on my other bike I can try, why not?

  199. #599
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    So is the general consensus that we MIGHT be able to switch out the 36 for something as low as 32 but still KEEP the granny (22)? And if we wanted to go to 30T, then its a one ring 1x only solution?

  200. #600
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    Quote Originally Posted by fripp View Post
    Is there a reason why the 22 has to go when this is used? Just curious, since the 22 is screwed into the spider right behind this ring, why does it have to go?

    I'm going to guess that its a shifting issue?
    The wolftooth ring will NOT allow shifting with a front derailleur, Im not sure if any other NW brands will either. Some people still use a 22 with NW ring but stop and manually switch the chain by hand. The 30t with the offset might move the ring to much inboard and interfere with the chain.
    Last edited by skywardx; 11-13-2014 at 02:40 AM.

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