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  1. #801
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    Quote Originally Posted by toe-knee View Post
    Anybody find a solution to the squeaking tires? From my troubleshooting the tire bead appears to be way too big on these rims causing movement especially at normal low pressures. Any tricks to make them fit tighter....hate to have to buy new tires for a bike I mainly ride on the beach,stock tires roll nice and good traction.

    How low pressure are you running? How low do you need? I started to get the dreaded squeak but it went away after I increased the air pressure. I didn't test to see at what pressure it went away, but I'm running at max pressure now for commuting.

  2. #802
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    I like to run about 9psi front 10-11psi rear. Seams like anything less than 15psi and the tires must move around on these wide rims and make the squeak squish noise.
    it's a big sh*t sandwich and were all gonna have to take a bite

  3. #803
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    Anyone got a problem with front end squealing? It's not my tirea I know that but I'm almost positive it's my brakes I can't ride the bike at this point it's so bad

  4. #804
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    I finally broke down and put the Surly Bud / Lou tires on the Goose.

    After months of trying Soap, Grease, and even Ru-Glyde from Napa - I have given up on getting the On-One floaters to mount these rims.

    Bud / Lou mounted up with no issues.
    My rear rim must be just ever-slightly out of true, which causes the tire to slightly rub the chain at one area when in granny/granny.

    To remedy this, I placed a spacer behind the cassette, but long-term I'm not comfortable with the limited thread this allowed to hold the cassette on.

    I'll be looking for the following as a permanent fix:
    Double crankset (if at all possible, a hollowtech style Bottom Bracket with a 22 little ring. I wouldn't mind having a 36 tooth 9-speed cassette to match with it, but currently have a 34.

    Has anybody found some good deals on a double crank / BB, or tested which Q-factors work on this bike? With the crank that's currently on it, I don't rub my feet on the frame , tho I do on all my other bikes. So it could probably go a little more narrow if needed.

  5. #805
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    You might be able to get some additional clearance by putting a spacer between the drive side bottom bracket cup and the frame. I did this with my framed minnesota to prevent some rubbing and there was still a ton of thread engaged. Do bud/lou fit with a good amount of clearance everywhere except the chain? (I know others have stated it works, but I'm trying to get a feel for how much room there is especially when all frames/tires are going to be slightly different)

  6. #806
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    Quote Originally Posted by ztbishop View Post
    I finally broke down and put the Surly Bud / Lou tires on the Goose.

    After months of trying Soap, Grease, and even Ru-Glyde from Napa - I have given up on getting the On-One floaters to mount these rims.

    Bud / Lou mounted up with no issues.
    My rear rim must be just ever-slightly out of true, which causes the tire to slightly rub the chain at one area when in granny/granny.

    To remedy this, I placed a spacer behind the cassette, but long-term I'm not comfortable with the limited thread this allowed to hold the cassette on.

    I'll be looking for the following as a permanent fix:
    Double crankset (if at all possible, a hollowtech style Bottom Bracket with a 22 little ring. I wouldn't mind having a 36 tooth 9-speed cassette to match with it, but currently have a 34.

    Has anybody found some good deals on a double crank / BB, or tested which Q-factors work on this bike? With the crank that's currently on it, I don't rub my feet on the frame , tho I do on all my other bikes. So it could probably go a little more narrow if needed.
    Both SRAM and Race Face make cranks that would work in this bike but, they are quite expensive. I got a tip from Dbauer and found a samox 2x10 crankset that comes on a specialized fatboy. There has been a guy selling one on pinkbike for months so you might be able to get a good price. They pop up on eBay every couple months. Here is the link

    2014 Samox 170 mm Fat Bike Crankset with 100mm BB For Sale

    The issue is this crank uses a 30mm spindle and even if they include the PF30 BB from the specialized it won't work on the Vinson. The only 30mm bsa thread fat bike BB I found was a Race Face cinch which is another $70 too.

    Hope this helps

  7. #807
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    Big fan of the Vinny. Local DSG in new England had one, left and came back because I was worried it would be gone. Need to finish a few bits like a different seat and suspension seatpost but for the moment I have to say you really feel those extra pounds on a dolo. The Vinny is much more suited to upgrades (few needed) and I am so glad I finally found one miles away. Came in at 34 even and my egg beaters and 120tpi snowshoes and q tubes lowered it to just over 32. Incredible value.


    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

  8. #808
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    Is there a sticky or first upgrades page somewhere? Curious about running a 2x9 eventually. Tossed the stock brakes for some Novelas as they handled freezing weather very well on my dolo. Need to relube it top to bottom as well as properly lube and tighten the hubs. How far in weight reduction have most folks achieved?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

  9. #809
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    Quote Originally Posted by skamatt23 View Post
    Is there a sticky or first upgrades page somewhere? Curious about running a 2x9 eventually. Tossed the stock brakes for some Novelas as they handled freezing weather very well on my dolo. Need to relube it top to bottom as well as properly lube and tighten the hubs. How far in weight reduction have most folks achieved?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk
    33-34 lbs is easy enough. It'll cost a lot to go under 30.

  10. #810
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    Does Mongoose still make these? They have been pulled from SA, *****, and Amazon sites. I was waiting for another SA deal but looks like that may not happen.

  11. #811
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    Idk, but I was talking with a guy who works for one of the Pacific brands, and He said that the next year's prototypes use a 197mm through, so I am guessing something new is on the horizon (though last year's prototype used a 170 mm qr, which did not come to market, so...)

  12. #812
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    I'm pretty tired of trying to set these weinmann rims up tubeless. I'm considering rebuilding the wheels with mulefut SL80s. Anyone know the hub brand/dimensions?

    I suppose I could just score some hubs from BHS, but that's another $240 on top of around $300 for mulefuts spokes and nipples.

  13. #813
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    Quote Originally Posted by nbwallace View Post
    I'm pretty tired of trying to set these weinmann rims up tubeless. I'm considering rebuilding the wheels with mulefut SL80s. Anyone know the hub brand/dimensions?

    I suppose I could just score some hubs from BHS, but that's another $240 on top of around $300 for mulefuts spokes and nipples.
    I'm going to experiment setting them up tubeless. 45nrth tires with foam wrapped around the rim and capped off with split tube. I can't see this not working.

  14. #814
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    It'll work the first time. But after the air compresses the foam, you'll be back to square one.

    I did this on mine and it was great until I got a pinch flat and lost all of my air pressure. When I got back home, the foam had compressed enough I could read the serial number on the rim through the foam. Even with the split tube back in place, I couldn't get the beads tight enough to hold air.

  15. #815
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    I've lurked around here for a LONG time (AWESOME SITE/ AWESOME INFORMATION) but I finally registered to tell my story about my Vinson.

    This was last week...

    I was in Sports Authority in my neighborhood on my Lunch hour at work to pick up some new MTB gloves. My spider senses start tingling so I ask the woman working the floor if shes heard of the Vinson (and If I could order one).

    She says is that the bike with the fat tires and I say YES. She goes you know we had one delivered a few weeks ago that was supposed to go to the Sacramento Store, and its just been sitting in the back! She takes me to the back of the warehouse moves a few boxes and there it was.

    I bought it that day my good friend I've known since ELEMENTARY school was working and extended me his managers discount. I got the bike for 416 out the door with free assembly.

  16. #816
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    416!!!

    That's awesome man!!

    Now get out there and enjoy

  17. #817
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    I tried the foam on the rim and split tube and it didn't really work. My LBS guy said use weather strip near the edges of the rim so I did that with spit tube and they will hold air for 3-4 days. I am going to try the weather stripping with saran wrap, which is the preferred method of my LBS dud and see how that goes.

    I think the bike is awesome for the money. I wouldn't want to say how much I have in it now (a lot). These Weinmann rims really suck for tubeless. As I said above I could save probably .5 lbs or more switching to mulefuts even more going to the new DT SWISS 710s.

  18. #818
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    Quote Originally Posted by nbwallace View Post
    These Weinmann rims really suck for tubeless. As I said above I could save probably .5 lbs or more switching to mulefuts even more going to the new DT SWISS 710s.
    The rims are not Weinmann brand. They are a CHINA brand. I left a link a few pages back. But yes, they suck a$$ for setting up tubeless. By the time you build up the rim center with foam, and the edges with weather stripping, and seal it all up with taps, you lost any weight savings, actually more like gained some. I tried every system and it always failed. It's not reliable. I'm running Mulefuts now, and they are without a doubt the most secure bead lock tubeless rim out there.

  19. #819
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    Good to hear about the mulefuts. Did you lace them to the stock hubs? If so what hub dimensions did you use?

  20. #820
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    Sold my vinson, mulefuts cane stock on new bike.
    Check eBay, there's a seller building them up for like 450-480 a set. Good hubs that are convertible if you want to go that route. You LBS could prob do similar if they're capable. That a big upgrade for this bike, I'd prob just run tubes and save that cash.

  21. #821
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    Has anyone confirmed a decent, yet reasonably priced crank upgrade?
    -Note: The crank arms and stock BB were a BEAR to take off.

    Note for anybody considering X5 cranks.
    I was eyeballing the SRAM X-5 (100mm GXP BB) for $160.
    I bought one local, slightly used for $60 figuring I'll take the risk.
    Both spacers on the non-drive side gave me about 1mm clearance between the crank arm and frame. My Bud/Lou combo would have none of it...chain rubbed the tire through all of the little ring. I could not change spacers to drive side, or the non drive crank would hit the frame. So this crank isn't going to work....can't do more spacers either because GXP Bottom Brackets will not turn if they have any side-load.

    I might just keep using the square taper and replace the BB now and then. If I do this, I would like to find a crank arm with a lower Q-factor. Out of all my bikes, this is the only one where I have a large gap between my shoe and the frame, so I could definitely afford to cut some width off. I suppose this takes us back to square one tho, of a 22 tooth inner little ring causing the chain to hit the tire.
    Time to stop thinking about it, have a beer and put the old crank on.

  22. #822
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    Found one at a local DSG store as well and bought it (at closeout price) due to good reviews I have read in these forum. Having so much fun riding and upgrading some parts.
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  23. #823
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    Had some serious saddle time on the Vinny, need to upload some pics! Missed a serious deal on a Carver used on eBay for like $160! Oh well. Thoughts on the current setup I have.

    Stock drivetrain is actually not awful. X4 is more thank capable and although I was thinking of tossing a 9 speed setup on the bike I am going to grab a 11-34 8 speed cassette and call it a day. Shifts are firm and although I had to straighten my rear derailleur hanger I bought a great upgraded hanger and my shifts are much better. I may decide to run a 1x8 with the 11-34 20T up front and call it a day but my riding is diverse with rail trails and hard climbs. I'll leave well enough alone and the cranks do a fine job with egg beaters.

  24. #824
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    Stock missions got converted on the cheap to studded with the help of 250 inexpensive stainless studs I bought from home Depot last year that have yet to rust. Missions are good for something lol.

    A stock Dolomite seat is actually pretty comfy.

    Chinese carbon seat post, bars, 80mm stem, 4.7 snowshoes, q tubes all keep me just under 32 lbs

    Chain is too long trust me.

    Use jagwires.... everywhere... trust me

    Pig headset. Cheap and bulletproof. DO IT!

    OURY makes a comfy lock in grip to help smooth out those trails.

    Avid levers are cheap smooth operators

  25. #825
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    Need some help on the HUBS.
    Was rebuilding last night and one of my cones has a nasty pit on it.
    I am having trouble sourcing a replacement.

    Some people mentioned the wheels are Weinmann. I recall someone replied and said they are not, but they are a no-name Chinese wheel.
    So...I cannot figure out what the hub brand is.

    I already took the cone to some bike shops in Indianapolis (reputable shops) - and nobody seems comfortable in sourcing a match for it.
    One shop said if I bring in the wheel they should be able to source a new AXLE kit with cones / washers for around $15-20. ASSUMING they can find something where it matches up with the seals, that would be okay...but I don't understand why that would be an easy task if finding a matching sized cone is so difficult. This is for the front wheel. One thing I noticed on the rear is, I don't think the freehub body comes off the hub?

    So, if anyone out there has found a matching cone that'd be great. I suppose for now I'll just ride it and not worry. But I'd hate to sink a bunch of money into re-lace the rims some day. And wayyyy down the road, I don't see a lot of options for lower priced wheels that would fit this bike (not finding many QR wheels or forks for that matter).

  26. #826
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    I bought some new rims to lighten things up and help with tubeless, which on the Weinmann's is a pain. At some point I decided to build new wheels instead of reusing the hubs. I didn't know the hubs were cup & cone, that would have made to decision much easier. In any case I hope you can fix them because 190mm hubs are pretty pricey.

  27. #827
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    i am considering using this bike as a cheap start jump off platform. changing all the non-fat bike parts with left over in the racing parts bin.

    i like the idea of 100mm rims. eventually next year changing out to a higher end cranks, wheelset and tires. for me no need to switch to a carbon frame, so aluminum will do. never gonna ride in the dirt anyways.

  28. #828
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    This is pretty much what I did. I think the concern is that the rims are hard to set up tubeless, the hub standard has become a non-standard and the 1.125" straight steerer means it's not Bluto or cheap carbon fork enabled.

  29. #829
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    I'm in the same boat. While expensive tires are a necessary upgrade for most any fat bike, I'm trying not to sink too much more than I already have into upgrades.

    My brakes never worked well (lots of wobble). Turns out they were probably fine all along...
    Bought some used Hayes Mag / new rotors to fix the extreme wobble and while better - the brakes were very shaky / lots of rotor rub still.
    So I put more money into new BB7's...same thing which I found odd. Couldn't true the rotor....bought a new one (rotor #4) - and realized that with any new rotor I was getting 4mm of play because the hub itself is not faced correctly. after two hours of tedious hand-truing I was able to get the rotor to where I can use it with very little rub.

    For the price I still think it's a good bike, but I have been unable to find a suitable fork upgrade, or wheels. Everything seems to be going thru axle / tapered steer. I almost bought one of the $140 chinese suspension forks, but at ~6.5 lbs, I can't see doing that from a 2lb rigid fork.

    Also haven't really found a solid answer on a crank upgrade so I plan to just replace it with a cheap tapered crank when it wears out...they're easy enough to find.

    Again, for the price it's not fair to compare this to $1200 bikes. I have a ton of fun riding this on single track and through snow. Just keep in mind the fork / wheel (and maybe crank) upgrades will be limited.

  30. #830
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    So I finally picked up a Vinny yesterday. I hadn't noticed at the store but when I got it home I found that in the largest rear cog when I roll the bike bacwards or pedal backwards the chain jumps 1 or 2 gears but seems to be shifting fine otherwise. Could this be a problem with the rear d hanger? The rear d? Or something else. Any ideas????

  31. #831
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    Anyone replaced their crank yet?

    I was hoping to find a takeoff Samox, but now I am thinking Sram or RaceFace.

  32. #832
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    Was about to order today but the -20% at SA that i was seeing all week is gone .
    I am wanting one for primarily winter riding. Plan to keep everything stock for now except the usual levers/stem/grips/tires.
    Thinking about tires I want something budget. Ideally i want Snowshoe XLs or Bulldozers. Will a Snowshoe XL fit in the rear?
    For a more budget setup i was thinking of something cheaper. Any recommendations on Jugarnaut 4.5's VERSUS Snowshoe (original not XL) particularly in snow?

  33. #833
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    Quote Originally Posted by ztbishop View Post
    For the price I still think it's a good bike, but I have been unable to find a suitable fork upgrade, or wheels. Everything seems to be going thru axle / tapered steer. I almost bought one of the $140 chinese suspension forks, but at ~6.5 lbs, I can't see doing that from a 2lb rigid fork.

    Also haven't really found a solid answer on a crank upgrade so I plan to just replace it with a cheap tapered crank when it wears out...they're easy enough to find.
    I'm thinking about then On One fat fork. It's 1 1/8 straight. Wheels are tricky because of the 190/135 combo.

    For a crank I swapped in a Truvativ 175....but I still want something that relaces the BB with a lighter modern style setup.

  34. #834
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    Quote Originally Posted by dledinger View Post
    Anyone replaced their crank yet?

    I was hoping to find a takeoff Samox, but now I am thinking Sram or RaceFace.
    Sram X5 was way too narrow. Put the stock crank back on and will be putting the X5 on ebay.

  35. #835
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    Quote Originally Posted by middlewoodlands View Post
    Will a Snowshoe XL fit in the rear?
    I would imagine so. I am running Surly Bud / Lou 4.8" combo. My rear is just slightly off true and I had to put a small spacer behind the cassette to stop my chain from rubbing the tire in lowest gear. (I don't recommend that since you don't have a lot of thread to hold the cassette on.) -I didn't want to push the Q-factor out any further on the cranks.

  36. #836
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    Quote Originally Posted by dledinger View Post
    Anyone replaced their crank yet?

    I was hoping to find a takeoff Samox, but now I am thinking Sram or RaceFace.

    After I went over a cliff on the Kenai last month and destroyed the outer crank ring, plus a few of my gears when the bike wound up in an aspen tree, I replaced the crank with an SR Suntour XCT 22-32-42 that my mechanic had laying around the shop.

    Replaced the cassette too with an OEM, but that's irrelevant to your question

  37. #837
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    Quote Originally Posted by ztbishop View Post
    I would imagine so. I am running Surly Bud / Lou 4.8" combo. My rear is just slightly off true and I had to put a small spacer behind the cassette to stop my chain from rubbing the tire in lowest gear. (I don't recommend that since you don't have a lot of thread to hold the cassette on.) -I didn't want to push the Q-factor out any further on the cranks.
    nice. do you have some pics you could throw up?

  38. #838
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    I found a raceface 190mm on eBay. It wasn't cheap. The cinch setup is nice. You probably need to get the 190mm spindle. You might be able to find the previous generation (non-cinch) version of the raceface fatbike cranks around at a decent price. I think samox cranks are not much of an improvement over stock.

  39. #839
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    I was considering the on one carbon. Their UK store had it cheap. But shipping was pricey, you need to modify the brake adapter (the fork is rear disk spaced) and it doesn't take particularly wide tires. It will be had to get a carbon for for less than $300 (Carver and there's another straight steerer one also $300) if the bike was tapered you could get a carbon fork for probably $100.

  40. #840
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    Yeah...my worry in ordering a RaceFace is the spacers needed to work with the 100mm BB. Does the crank come with them?

  41. #841
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    Quote Originally Posted by nbwallace View Post
    I was considering the on one carbon. Their UK store had it cheap. But shipping was pricey, you need to modify the brake adapter (the fork is rear disk spaced) and it doesn't take particularly wide tires. It will be had to get a carbon for for less than $300 (Carver and there's another straight steerer one also $300) if the bike was tapered you could get a carbon fork for probably $100.
    Yup.

  42. #842
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    The setup I bought on eBay came with spacers. My understanding is that they can be purchased if needed.

  43. #843
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    Can anyone PLEASE give me a link to a stock replacement tapered BB? Not looking to replace my crankset if at all possible at the moment

  44. #844
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    Zero problems setting up tubeless

    Tonight I decided to set the Vinson up tubeless. I've been rocking some Husker Du 27 tpi wire bead tires on it lately and it was time to ditch those schrader valves for presta to aid in the trail to beach transition and then back again. Reading all the horror stories about how difficult it was to set up tubeless I was nervous. I used a Q-tubes tube split in half. Lined that baby up, wiped out the dust and it aired up with no problem on the first shot both the front and rear. I seated the bead at 40 psi. Aired it down squirted in some Stan's baby batter and aired it up again. Zero leaks, zero bead slip, went smooth as glass. I didn't need any foam to build up the bead and it was easier to set these rims up than my moonlander with clown shoes. I have no idea what you guys are using to set up tubeless but split tube has been the only way for me. All other methods failed. The only fault I have had with the bike has been one ridiculously stubborn disc bolt that must have been cross threaded and I cannot get it out to change out the disc. I changed the brakes to XT because the stock ones were terrible. Great bike, great value, a few tweaks and it works really well. So far I changed the saddle, the stem, the brakes, and tires. I'll wear the drivetrain out eventually and change that to a 2X10 setup down the road.

  45. #845
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    Quote Originally Posted by skamatt23 View Post
    Can anyone PLEASE give me a link to a stock replacement tapered BB? Not looking to replace my crankset if at all possible at the moment
    I think this is what you want, but measure twice buy once:

    Origin8 100x164mm Square Taper Bottom Bracket - Modern Bike

  46. #846
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    Quote Originally Posted by ztbishop View Post
    Sram X5 was way too narrow. Put the stock crank back on and will be putting the X5 on ebay.
    There's an X5 that is fatbike specific. In the future if anybody is looking for an external-bearing or spindled crankset, the spindle width must be able to accomodate the 100mm BB shell!

    Amazon.com : SRAM X.5 GXP Crankset with 100mm Bottom Bracket, 175mm : Bike Cranksets And Accessories : Sports & Outdoors

    ^ Amazon has an X5 100mm spindle with GXP BB for ~$100 - a pretty sweet deal as far as I'm concerned!

  47. #847
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anvil_X View Post
    nice. do you have some pics you could throw up?
    Yup. Speaking of throw up, I almost did after a month off the bike and then hitting the trail.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails mongoose Vinson-goose.jpg  


  48. #848
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    I was using the 100mm shell fat specific SRAM X5 crank. Way too narrow for this bike. It threw off the chain line and put the chain into my tire. Plus without spacers, the crank would hit one side of the frame or the other due to the 190 rear spacing. SRAM X5 won't work with 190 spacing it appears.
    Also, the spacers would make the crank stop spinning, as the SRAM bottom bracket doesn't allow for side-load.

  49. #849
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    Quote Originally Posted by ztbishop View Post
    Yup. Speaking of throw up, I almost did after a month off the bike and then hitting the trail.
    LOL nice.

    Here's the aftermath of my singletrack fun from yesterday evening.

    The seat's fine btw. it's just sitting in the back of my truck with the rest of my bike paraphrenalia.

    Tell you what though, I wish I had tires with more tread last night. these stock tires are great for scooting around on the road, but doing actual MTB stuff..... not exactly.
    Spent half my time throwing rooster tails and making power turns like an oldschool dirt track stock car racer

    mongoose Vinson-img00022.jpg

  50. #850
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    given the things you had to run a 4.8, how do you think a 4.5 would do on this bike?

  51. #851
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anvil_X View Post
    given the things you had to run a 4.8, how do you think a 4.5 would do on this bike?
    I think you'd be ok. My back is just slightly out of true, and (only) when in super-granny there was a slight rub on one part of the tire.

    Just my opinion but I don't think you'd have issues with 4.5 I figure if I have the insane 190 rear spacing, might as well go bigger than 4". I also tend to order from stores that allow for 'new condition' returns just in case.

  52. #852
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    How is the tubeless holding up?
    What specs of Q-tube did you try?
    I wasn't sure if any of the 24 x 2.1 tires at my LBS would be wide enough for split tube.

    I'd imagine it's a YMMV thing depending on which tire you use...I generally run tubes in all my tubeless wheels just for my sanity, as I don't want to worry 7 sets of tires needing refilled, drying, etc. However, this is the one bike where I'd hate to be changing a flat in the extreme cold. I've already had my Bud/Lou combo pick up a 4" rusty nail out of the ground. That took a whole lotta pumping after trailside tube repair.

  53. #853
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    Quote Originally Posted by ztbishop View Post
    How is the tubeless holding up?
    What specs of Q-tube did you try?
    I wasn't sure if any of the 24 x 2.1 tires at my LBS would be wide enough for split tube.

    I'd imagine it's a YMMV thing depending on which tire you use...I generally run tubes in all my tubeless wheels just for my sanity, as I don't want to worry 7 sets of tires needing refilled, drying, etc. However, this is the one bike where I'd hate to be changing a flat in the extreme cold. I've already had my Bud/Lou combo pick up a 4" rusty nail out of the ground. That took a whole lotta pumping after trailside tube repair.
    So far so good. Zero problems. You need to use a 24"X2.75" tube. The widest tube only. Anything narrower will not work. I've experimented with all and the conclusion is that split tube is the only way to do fat tires/rims if you want zero problems and less issues.

  54. #854
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    Quote Originally Posted by ztbishop View Post
    I think you'd be ok. My back is just slightly out of true, and (only) when in super-granny there was a slight rub on one part of the tire.

    Just my opinion but I don't think you'd have issues with 4.5 I figure if I have the insane 190 rear spacing, might as well go bigger than 4". I also tend to order from stores that allow for 'new condition' returns just in case.
    I'm thinking of grabbing a 4.5 to test. If it can't fit in the back, I'll just throw it up front. If it does fit, I'll throw a 5 up front

    Then I can use these stock tires to test my DIY stud technique.

  55. #855
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    A lot of people are running 4.5 front and rear in this frame. No issues at all.

  56. #856
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    running 4.5 snow shoes without any interference
    I think 4.8's would fit no problem except maybe in granny granny gear

  57. #857
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    good to know.

  58. #858
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    Tubliss

    Quote Originally Posted by toothpuller View Post
    So far so good. Zero problems. You need to use a 24"X2.75" tube. The widest tube only. Anything narrower will not work. I've experimented with all and the conclusion is that split tube is the only way to do fat tires/rims if you want zero problems and less issues.
    I aired the tires down from high pressure (40 psi down to 8). There was some weepage as the bead moved a bit but nothing substantial. I took the bike for a short ride to spread more sealant and the weepage stopped. I trimmed back the split tube, looks great and rides like a magic carpet. This bike is my during the week trainer. Great.

  59. #859
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    hey, has anybody tried to put a blackburn outpost rack on their Vinson? my buddy put one on his Norco this week, and told me it has the fittings to mount on bikes without braze-ons

    here's a link:

    OUTPOST FAT BIKE RACK

  60. #860
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    Got the Vinson last year, a few upgrades and still content!

    got rid of the V rub missions and got Panasonic ChaoYang 4.9 up front and Kenda Juggernaut Sport 4.5" rear (lots of frame clearance and Maxxis Colossus is a similar tread in a 4.8)! Both fat tires fit with 29er split mod fenders! installed a Thomson 50 mm stem, King H/S, 11-34T 8S cassette/8s chain, 7/8s Shimano XT thumb shifters, and upgraded to FSA Comet 10s cranks (shimmed granny gear with 1 mm spacers so the 8s chain clears shift pins on big ring from granny). XTR 9s Derailleurs and XTR V Brake Levers. Avid Mechanical Brakes. Giant contact switch dropper post. Wisecracker bottle opener H/S spacer.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails mongoose Vinson-p1510555_edited.jpg  

    mongoose Vinson-p1530928_edited.jpg  

    mongoose Vinson-p1540226_.jpg  

    mongoose Vinson-10690153_10206761965272520_6070092158876380426_n.jpg  

    mongoose Vinson-p1520647_-edited.jpg  

    mongoose Vinson-p1540247__edited.jpg  


  61. #861
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    Quote Originally Posted by KB1JKI View Post
    got rid of the V rub missions and got Panasonic ChaoYang 4.9 up front and Kenda Juggernaut Sport 4.5" rear (lots of frame clearance and Maxxis Colossus is a similar tread in a 4.8)! Both fat tires fit with 29er split mod fenders! installed a Thomson 50 mm stem, King H/S, 11-34T 8S cassette/8s chain, 7/8s Shimano XT thumb shifters, and upgraded to FSA Comet 10s cranks (shimmed granny gear with 1 mm spacers so the 8s chain clears shift pins on big ring from granny). XTR 9s Derailleurs and XTR V Brake Levers. Avid Mechanical Brakes. Giant contact switch dropper post. Wisecracker bottle opener H/S spacer.
    Hey KB1JKI , where did you order the Chao-yang fat tires? Nice pics, btw.

  62. #862
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    I got my 4.9" on ebay from an Italian vendor. I don't see the listing on ebay but I think these are the folks that sold me the tire: http://www.ridewill.it/p/en/chaoyang...40419.htmlWhen I bought it, most of the huge tires were sold out but for the Surly BUD/LOU, that were price prohibitive for me at the time, despite the fact that intl shipping was the same cost as the Chao! I got the Kenda 4.5" Jugg for the tractor tread and deep lugs but that Maxxis Colossus has a similar pattern in a 4.8"! The chao has little rolling resistance, has a decent crown so over 10 psi rolls a 2" wide footprint on asphalt and has no perceptible self steer. Riding 5 psi (front) on asphalt for over 20 miles will beat the sidewalls and may pinch flat over curbs, though it's a real nice pressure on single track. I have ridden at 2-3 psi (front) on snow without issue for winter season.The knobs bite but aren't too grabby which I like up front, and they don't bust up snow pack either. this is a great floater with a huge footprint. I usually run the rear jugg at 7-12 psi trail/street and around 4-5 psi in snow and I am 250 lbs.

  63. #863
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    My vinson has been a great bike and I mean great but its time to move up and get a slightly better fat bike. I only had 3 problems with the vinson and that's amazing for such a low priced bike.the problems were minor but the headset crapped out so I bought a vp,the brake levers were a little on the cheap side and loosened up to much they were replaced and the brakes just never smoothed out.the brakes are still on it they worked okay but that's about it. for the money I still think its the best entry level fat bike you can buy and rides as good as some bikes costing more.if anyone is looking to buy one let me know it looks like new and has some upgrades.Im letting it go very cheap to make room for another fat bike. located in the akron canton Cleveland ohio area.

  64. #864
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    Your best bet Craig's List pick up. Shipping would be close to $100. Black Fri should see price drop to $460 new at some retailers... You would have to let go of what could have cost $700 for $250 to be competitive and ship, or $350 for pick up. If the price remained static you could easily ask for more, it is certainly worth $450 lightly used, but that is if the going rate remains $699 new. Don't be surprised to see the price around $560 during the holidays as well. Bicycles depreciate even on the sales floor, let alone used despite a couple upgrades and particularly big box brands. Honestly I would not sell the rig for $250 but tear it down and part it out for more. Try finding wheels for that price! It is actually a reasonable stock weight, and you may upgrade the frame! 9s/10s systems fit the hub body -alas building the bike up in parts is more expensive in the long run. (and there are few front squish options that are not using tapered steer tubes.) If you get no takers, give it to a friend or family member and end up with a ride partner! Good luck!

  65. #865
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    Your advice is right on I would like to get 425.00 firm as its mint except for the brakes not being perfect. I have it on akron canton ohio craigslist right now. I got to ride 3 different fat bikes in the 750.00 to 1200.00 range and the vinson was just about as good.Im going to buy a 1600.00 priced bike a scott big john.rode one last week put money down hope to get it this week so the vinny needs to go. thanks.

  66. #866
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    Excellent! With a little work the brakes are fine, and it doesn't cost much for someone once buying that rig at a steal for a caliper only upgrade to Avid BB7's with a 180 mm Avid front adapter. I smoked the BB in 2 months and that was my excuse to get FSA Comet 2 piece cranks. Only the hubs are stock bearing assemblies on mine these days. I was sitting on a ton of parts, so upgrades weren't cost prohibitive. Looking at the bikes you are talking about, what comes standard is cheaper to buy as a whole than piecemeal at high margin. Fantastic bike to see if Fat is for you, but as every day machine as a winter commuter or bikepacking rig it is not -without upgrades.

  67. #867
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    Cool, but I'm still on this 'goose ride! (For now.)

    Oh, since the wheels still work, I may end up getting an 11-36t 10s Cassette that fits, the OneUp 40/16t cog swap out kit, $30 10s chain, 10s XT RD, and Paul Thumbies... I have a pair of DuraAce 10s Barcons in the tool box! I can dump the (Albeit wonderful) 7/8s XT thumb shifters and 11-34t 8s for a crazy range in finer steps and maintain thumb shifters in a contemporary 10s configuration! I doubt the 'goose frame is heat treated and the clock is ticking on a stress failure. So after that, it's time to stash some cash for a Triton Frame! ! Somehow I have to buy a shelter/tarp/sleep bag/sleep pad/cook set n such to fit inside my current project:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails mongoose Vinson-p1600040.jpg  


  68. #868
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    I ended up selling the vinson today and it only took 3 days. these bikes are popular thats for sure.

  69. #869
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    My car with my Vinson locked in the trunk was stolen from work last Friday. Pretty bummed, glad it was a cheapy. They ditched the car 4 hours later, left the aftermarket stereo and speakers, Lake shoes, helmet, and Camelbak. Only took the Vinson and a floor pump??? These things must be in real high demand


    mongoose Vinson-rollins-pass.jpg


    ****

  70. #870
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    Tubeless checking in. NO burps, farts, tire rolls etc. Still going strong and holding pressure. Split tube for the win.

  71. #871
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    These are now being sold with Kenda Juggernaut Sport tires...not Vee Missions if anyone cares.

  72. #872
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    Quote Originally Posted by BIGFAT29 View Post
    My vinson has been a great bike and I mean great but its time to move up and get a slightly better fat bike. I only had 3 problems with the vinson and that's amazing for such a low priced bike.the problems were minor but the headset crapped out so I bought a vp,the brake levers were a little on the cheap side and loosened up to much they were replaced and the brakes just never smoothed out.the brakes are still on it they worked okay but that's about it. for the money I still think its the best entry level fat bike you can buy and rides as good as some bikes costing more.if anyone is looking to buy one let me know it looks like new and has some upgrades.Im letting it go very cheap to make room for another fat bike. located in the akron canton Cleveland ohio area.
    I'm at the same crossroads with my Vinson. I still like it, but I've found its limitations for racing and I can no longer trust the bike to get me to the finish line safely.
    The best bang for the buck upgrades were tires. I switched to Bulldozers.
    Brake levers and good cables/housings. I used Avid Speed Dial levers. My headset crapped out too. During the Birkie no less. I replaced it with a snazzy orange Origin 8. The brake rotors warped during that race also.
    I had converted to 3x10, but switched back to 3x8 with a 20T granny gear. It works great and 20/32 almost matches 22/36 for $20 off ebay.
    For my front shifting I got the Problem Solvers direct mount clamp and an X7 FD. The Alivio FD was just a little to flex/finicky for my taste when racing.
    I also replaced the seatpost with an UNO carbon one with a Problem Solvers shim. The saddle is a Specialized Ti Henge. The stem is a Race Face Ride 60mm. The bars are Race Face Atlas 785mm risers, and the grips are Troy Lee ODI lock ons.

    I am heavier than many. My weigh fluctuates between 210 to 250 depending on the season. I am not an overly aggressive rider, but I like to have fun and race. None of my bikes are high end, but I've built them the way I like them. The reason I don't trust the bike, is the fork and wheels.

    Under hard braking I can see the fork flexing excessively on the brake side, which makes it pull a little to that side. When I am out of the saddle muscling up a hill I can hear both the front and rear brakes rubbing which indicates flex. My steel forks on other bikes do this too but not as much as the aluminum one on the Vinson. I do not see or hear any flex with my rigid carbon forks. On three occasions I've had a QR pop open due to this flex. The first time it happened was last winter when hopping over a curb. The front popped open, but the lawyer lips saved me. Another time was last spring during a sloppy, snowy commute when a car made me go off the shoulder of the road. The rear tire slid out and I ended up on the ground. I found the rear wheel in the middle of the street. The third and final time occurred a few weeks ago while riding singletrack. I was muscling up a climb and had to lift the front end over a root. Well the QR popped and this time the wheel came off. Its a good thing I am good at crashing or I'd be missing teeth or worse. I also hate the fact that when running anything less than 10psi the tires squeak like crazy on the cheap Weinmann rims.

    I still love the bike and might keep it for gravel grinding and neighborhood rides with my son. My brother-in-law has expressed interest in it though, so it will still be in the family if I do sell it.

    Now I need to figure out which new bike to buy.

  73. #873
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    My girlfriend has already claimed mine. She added an asterisk though when she said that the next bike I got would be the last, lest we become "weird bike people". it bums me out to no end because my singlespeed is for groceries, family trips and bikejoring, while the Vinson does everything else. I'd really like to get a touring bike for long hauls, but as it stands, I'll just have to get one REALLY good frame that I can retrofit depending on the mission. though the thought of racing wheels and a road bike bar on a fatbike frame is amusing enough to make it worthwhile. Sorta like a souped up dodge neon.

  74. #874
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    There is a mongoose fat bike page on Facebook, (https://www.facebook.com/groups/613073762054967/) as well as a general fat bike page, (https://www.facebook.com/groups/326108427417580/). You can find a bunch of enthusiasts that have modified their Vinsons, and some that may have interest in yours. (These general groups are likely not for selling or trading, however there are a couple fat bike trading pages on Facebook as well! https://www.facebook.com/groups/fatbiketrader/) The Fat bikes pages will fill you in on other fat bikes, spec, prices, testimonials etc... I have noticed the flex and shutter of the forks by locking up the front and releasing the brakes suddenly. It is disconcerting where aluminum often fails from fatigue. I'm a big guy and not a fan of carbon up front either. I will say that I noticed the same phenomenon on my friend's Surly Moonlander to a similar extent, and find it forgivable on that bike, as steel will better survive (or simply bend) vs eventual catastrophic instant failure. I suspect this shutter is due to the mass of the wheels as compared to skinny wheels, but I will have to check as I have never noticed this before. I have been perfectly satisfied with this bike because, for the price point, it is reasonably standardized for most contemporary parts, it is aluminum and a reasonable weight, albeit not necessarily heat treated. The hubs are not sealed bearings, and the rim seems are not welded... this is not a performance issue and if maintained for winter and trail riding are problem free. The reason to upgrade would be for a contemporary standard tapered head tube for suspension forks, a lighter heat treated frame, and upgrading parts is most affordable by buying them in bulk at cost (on a new bike) rather than piece meal.

  75. #875
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    One thing you can do is get a Triton Fat bike frame (last you ever need Gallery | Triton) get an internal speed hub with belt drive. The belt will last 8000+ miles be trouble free more so than the average single speed, and you will still have the luxury of 3/7/8/14 speeds depending on the hub you choose. The beauty is, with disc brakes, you can run either 26"x4-5" wheels, or 29"x2-3" wheels depending on your mood/whim/application.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails mongoose Vinson-triton-bikes-may-2014-16.jpg  

    mongoose Vinson-img_0792-ck.jpg  


  76. #876
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    Quote Originally Posted by KB1JKI View Post
    One thing you can do is get a Triton Fat bike frame (last you ever need Gallery | Triton) get an internal speed hub with belt drive. The belt will last 8000+ miles be trouble free more so than the average single speed, and you will still have the luxury of 3/7/8/14 speeds depending on the hub you choose. The beauty is, with disc brakes, you can run either 26"x4-5" wheels, or 29"x2-3" wheels depending on your mood/whim/application.
    Oh look, there goes a ton of my money...... Just walking itself right on out of my bank account. not even making a pitstop in my wallet.

  77. #877
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    yup. do you buy a new bike every few years or once every couple decades? it's context.

  78. #878
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    upgrade from Vinson

    Quote Originally Posted by slowride454 View Post
    I'm at the same crossroads with my Vinson. I still like it, but I've found its limitations for racing and I can no longer trust the bike to get me to the finish line safely.
    The best bang for the buck upgrades were tires. I switched to Bulldozers.
    Brake levers and good cables/housings. I used Avid Speed Dial levers. My headset crapped out too. During the Birkie no less. I replaced it with a snazzy orange Origin 8. The brake rotors warped during that race also.
    I had converted to 3x10, but switched back to 3x8 with a 20T granny gear. It works great and 20/32 almost matches 22/36 for $20 off ebay.
    For my front shifting I got the Problem Solvers direct mount clamp and an X7 FD. The Alivio FD was just a little to flex/finicky for my taste when racing.
    I also replaced the seatpost with an UNO carbon one with a Problem Solvers shim. The saddle is a Specialized Ti Henge. The stem is a Race Face Ride 60mm. The bars are Race Face Atlas 785mm risers, and the grips are Troy Lee ODI lock ons.

    I am heavier than many. My weigh fluctuates between 210 to 250 depending on the season. I am not an overly aggressive rider, but I like to have fun and race. None of my bikes are high end, but I've built them the way I like them. The reason I don't trust the bike, is the fork and wheels.

    Under hard braking I can see the fork flexing excessively on the brake side, which makes it pull a little to that side. When I am out of the saddle muscling up a hill I can hear both the front and rear brakes rubbing which indicates flex. My steel forks on other bikes do this too but not as much as the aluminum one on the Vinson. I do not see or hear any flex with my rigid carbon forks. On three occasions I've had a QR pop open due to this flex. The first time it happened was last winter when hopping over a curb. The front popped open, but the lawyer lips saved me. Another time was last spring during a sloppy, snowy commute when a car made me go off the shoulder of the road. The rear tire slid out and I ended up on the ground. I found the rear wheel in the middle of the street. The third and final time occurred a few weeks ago while riding singletrack. I was muscling up a climb and had to lift the front end over a root. Well the QR popped and this time the wheel came off. Its a good thing I am good at crashing or I'd be missing teeth or worse. I also hate the fact that when running anything less than 10psi the tires squeak like crazy on the cheap Weinmann rims.

    I still love the bike and might keep it for gravel grinding and neighborhood rides with my son. My brother-in-law has expressed interest in it though, so it will still be in the family if I do sell it.

    Now I need to figure out which new bike to buy.
    hey guys, i do alot of lurking on this forum and truly appreciate the hard earned lessons from everyone. that said, i love my Vinson, rode it almost daily since last December. upgraded tires to on one floaters, then to bulldozers, both great upgrades with NO rub issues front and back. along with avid brake levers and new headset, like many others. BUT after lots of web browsing and a several demo rides, pulled the trigger on a 2015 Salsa Blackborow and could not be happier. Vinson is a great fatbike period. i never rode a bike regularly in my life, and now ride almost daily due to having so much fun on a fatbike. To each his own if they desire to upgrade parts or bikes. thanks!

  79. #879
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    replacing my vinson with big jon by scott

    Quote Originally Posted by slowride454 View Post
    I'm at the same crossroads with my Vinson. I still like it, but I've found its limitations for racing and I can no longer trust the bike to get me to the finish line safely.
    The best bang for the buck upgrades were tires. I switched to Bulldozers.
    Brake levers and good cables/housings. I used Avid Speed Dial levers. My headset crapped out too. During the Birkie no less. I replaced it with a snazzy orange Origin 8. The brake rotors warped during that race also.
    I had converted to 3x10, but switched back to 3x8 with a 20T granny gear. It works great and 20/32 almost matches 22/36 for $20 off ebay.
    For my front shifting I got the Problem Solvers direct mount clamp and an X7 FD. The Alivio FD was just a little to flex/finicky for my taste when racing.
    I also replaced the seatpost with an UNO carbon one with a Problem Solvers shim. The saddle is a Specialized Ti Henge. The stem is a Race Face Ride 60mm. The bars are Race Face Atlas 785mm risers, and the grips are Troy Lee ODI lock ons.

    I am heavier than many. My weigh fluctuates between 210 to 250 depending on the season. I am not an overly aggressive rider, but I like to have fun and race. None of my bikes are high end, but I've built them the way I like them. The reason I don't trust the bike, is the fork and wheels.

    Under hard braking I can see the fork flexing excessively on the brake side, which makes it pull a little to that side. When I am out of the saddle muscling up a hill I can hear both the front and rear brakes rubbing which indicates flex. My steel forks on other bikes do this too but not as much as the aluminum one on the Vinson. I do not see or hear any flex with my rigid carbon forks. On three occasions I've had a QR pop open due to this flex. The first time it happened was last winter when hopping over a curb. The front popped open, but the lawyer lips saved me. Another time was last spring during a sloppy, snowy commute when a car made me go off the shoulder of the road. The rear tire slid out and I ended up on the ground. I found the rear wheel in the middle of the street. The third and final time occurred a few weeks ago while riding singletrack. I was muscling up a climb and had to lift the front end over a root. Well the QR popped and this time the wheel came off. Its a good thing I am good at crashing or I'd be missing teeth or worse. I also hate the fact that when running anything less than 10psi the tires squeak like crazy on the cheap Weinmann rims.

    I still love the bike and might keep it for gravel grinding and neighborhood rides with my son. My brother-in-law has expressed interest in it though, so it will still be in the family if I do sell it.

    Now I need to figure out which new bike to buy.
    I sold my vinson and bought a 2016 scott big jon.retails for 1600.00 got mine for 1500.00 and tax. its got components that much more expensive fat bikes have. it has thru axles,raceface crank,shimano brakes, a slx rear der,schwalbe 4.8 tires,syncros 80 mm rims and it weighs a little over 32 lbs.you would pay close to 2000.00 for some other fat bike brands with these components. the scott fat bike rides great but I loved my vinson. I think I took the vinson as far as I could without spending much more on it. I needed something just a little more reliable and a few pounds lighter.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails mongoose Vinson-big-fat-jon-040.jpg  

    mongoose Vinson-big-fat-jon-049.jpg  

    mongoose Vinson-big-fat-jon-059.jpg  

    mongoose Vinson-big-fat-jon-037.jpg  

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  80. #880
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    Well done. the through axles are stiffer, the component upgrades are longer lasting across the miles, and the lighter bike are worth the money. It does say a great deal that the mongoose Vinson does the job very well as entry level rig at a 1/4 of the price! There is a place for the Vinson, as there is a place for higher end rigs. The Vinson is worth the price as are the better built higher end variety. It's all about application, otherwise the value is consistent.

  81. #881
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    Has anyone managed to put a front suspension fork on their Vinson??

    I picked up a Vinson at Sports Authority a few weeks ago thanks in a large part to this thread. This thing is a blast!
    However, yesterdays ride through miles of boulder filled New England single track has me feeling like I just ripped up a sidewalk with a jackhammer. Still, the boys on their full suspension 29'ers were all ready to go get a fatbike for this winter!
    I am seriously looking for some 100 mm plus suspension forks that'll fit the 1 1/8 head tube, and that rules out the RockShox Bluto's unless I'm missing something.

    Does anyone have a suspension setup in front that's working for them?
    Thanks!

  82. #882
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    Quote Originally Posted by FatVinson View Post
    Has anyone managed to put a front suspension fork on their Vinson??

    I picked up a Vinson at Sports Authority a few weeks ago thanks in a large part to this thread. This thing is a blast!
    However, yesterdays ride through miles of boulder filled New England single track has me feeling like I just ripped up a sidewalk with a jackhammer. Still, the boys on their full suspension 29'ers were all ready to go get a fatbike for this winter!
    I am seriously looking for some 100 mm plus suspension forks that'll fit the 1 1/8 head tube, and that rules out the RockShox Bluto's unless I'm missing something.

    Does anyone have a suspension setup in front that's working for them?
    Thanks!
    I keep eyeing the lefty conversion

  83. #883
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    Flash Sale?

    Sports Authority is running a sale from 10am until 10pm ET on 11/2 today for the Mongoose Vinson. I just bought one for a grand total of $391.50 online. That price includes $34.51 tax and free shipping and in store assembly. Coupon code 20OFF75 gets you 20% off!

  84. #884
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    Thanks for the heads up! I called a ride buddy and he ordered one with the discount code. He paid a little less in taxes. unbeatable value.

  85. #885
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    Thanks
    I just snagged one for 379 shipped to the door

    Will make a great bike to bring friends along in the winter

  86. #886
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    Outstanding!

  87. #887
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike74653 View Post
    Sports Authority is running a sale from 10am until 10pm ET on 11/2 today for the Mongoose Vinson. I just bought one for a grand total of $391.50 online. That price includes $34.51 tax and free shipping and in store assembly. Coupon code 20OFF75 gets you 20% off!
    THANK YOU!!! It was $381.98 with tax and shipping for me here in NJ. Such a deal...thanks to you. Appreciate it.

  88. #888
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    Quote Originally Posted by FatVinson View Post
    Has anyone managed to put a front suspension fork on their Vinson??

    I picked up a Vinson at Sports Authority a few weeks ago thanks in a large part to this thread. This thing is a blast!
    However, yesterdays ride through miles of boulder filled New England single track has me feeling like I just ripped up a sidewalk with a jackhammer. Still, the boys on their full suspension 29'ers were all ready to go get a fatbike for this winter!
    I am seriously looking for some 100 mm plus suspension forks that'll fit the 1 1/8 head tube, and that rules out the RockShox Bluto's unless I'm missing something.

    Does anyone have a suspension setup in front that's working for them?
    Thanks!
    have you tried lowering the tire pressure? I do a lot of singletrack with huge roots, and the ride was intolerable until I deflated the tires significantly. when they're running high, it's like riding my uncle's tractor going over speedbumps, then when I had them around 10 PSI, the tire would almost engulf the roots, and it felt like rolling on a cloud

  89. #889
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    11nine, carver, and Aeko forks may offer straight steer tube forks. They're all a pretty penny and won't work with your next frame. let some air out of your tires.
    Sneak Peak: ?Renegade? Fat Bike Suspension Fork Coming from RST | Singletracks Mountain Bike News

  90. #890
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    Merry Christmas!

  91. #891
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    I have an 11 9 lulu fork on a different bike. It's an excellent fork but hard for me to justify the price

    If anyone has a carbon fork they bought and have some buyers regret, and would work with the factory hub can you pm me?

    I would not mind a more durable fork, even though my bike has not arrived

    I'm guessing brakes are in my future

    Got lost in this thread last night

  92. #892
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    I just put new Studded 45NRTH Dillinger 5's on my Vinson with stock rims with standard tubes. At 30psi the rear rubs the chain slightly in the lowest granny gear. At 20 psi there is about a mm of clearance. At 10 psi there is 2mm of clearance. Most of the time I'll be between 5 and 10 psi so I can't imagine this being an issue unless the tire stretches appreciably. I'll post again if that happens. The tolerance is pretty close, so I could see getting a tire a little more out of true and rubbing the chain at the lower pressures, just a heads up.

  93. #893
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    Quote Originally Posted by toothpuller View Post
    So far so good. Zero problems. You need to use a 24"X2.75" tube. The widest tube only. Anything narrower will not work. I've experimented with all and the conclusion is that split tube is the only way to do fat tires/rims if you want zero problems and less issues.
    I wonder how these 20" x 3" tubes would work? Sunlite Bicycle Tube 20 x 2.75-3.00 (406 ISO) SCHRADER Valve A little bit cheaper than the Q-tube 24", don't know if there would be any other pros/cons.

  94. #894
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anvil_X View Post
    have you tried lowering the tire pressure? I do a lot of singletrack with huge roots, and the ride was intolerable until I deflated the tires significantly. when they're running high, it's like riding my uncle's tractor going over speedbumps, then when I had them around 10 PSI, the tire would almost engulf the roots, and it felt like rolling on a cloud
    I have lowered the tire pressure and continue to notice what a difference it makes. I get the cloud vs tractor analogy and am slowly deflating my way to that cloud. I would still love some way to get a set of white Blutos mounted on the nose though!
    Thanks!

  95. #895
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    Lefty! Go Lefty!

  96. #896
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    The lefty is a decent option and you can easily swap out steer tubes later, so it's upgradable. I was hoping the head shock used a 1 1/8" 'cuz I'd just weld on a wider uni-crown. I still have 3 Girvins kicking about to transform also. I think there's a version of the lefty coming out that will handle a 5" tire. I'm a fat bastard and run a 4.9" ChaoYang up front and 4.5" Kenda juggernaut rear. I have run as low as 2 psi in the Chao and 3 psi in the Jugg on snowshoe pack in deep snow. this will piss off the sidewall and be a bear to control on hardpack. I have run 5 up front and 7 rear and loved it on trails... however I was an idiot and tried launching up sharp granite steps. The first two steps made 3 snake bite pinches... that's 6 holes in the tube and poked a 2mm hole in the sidewall near the bead in the back. I patched the inside of the tire and replaced the tube. Even at 12 PSI in the rear and 8 PSI up front on asphalt, the front tire sidewall is showing thread, after a 30 mile road excursion; but that's still comfy in tech single track and worry free in rock gardens, while not being too bouncy at speed on rough descents with roots and rocks... still dreamy down loose fist sized gravel wash out areas as compared to skinny compadres. Cannondale, Professional and Trusted Lefty and Head Shock Service Performed by Craig Smith

  97. #897
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    Quote Originally Posted by FatVinson View Post
    I have lowered the tire pressure and continue to notice what a difference it makes. I get the cloud vs tractor analogy and am slowly deflating my way to that cloud. I would still love some way to get a set of white Blutos mounted on the nose though!
    Thanks!
    bummer. best luck finding the fork then, I'll be lurking for the pics when you do

  98. #898
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    Anyone know if a surly Knard 4.8 will clear in the rear? Tried searching the thread for this info but struck out. Thanks.

  99. #899
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pkovo View Post
    Anyone know if a surly Knard 4.8 will clear in the rear? Tried searching the thread for this info but struck out. Thanks.
    I think there were some dudes who did about twenty pages or so, but lost their granny gears in the process. the consensus I hear is that 4.5 fits just fine in the back, and 5 is fine up front.

    So if you want to test, just get one, try it on the back, and if it fits, get another. If not, throw that sucker on the front and go with the next best thing in the back.

  100. #900
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    look at Bishop's comments on the lower end of page 34 and the top of page 35. those seem to be relevant to your question

    Also: I replied twice, and it appears this second reply started a new page. just FYI

  101. #901
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    Thanks. Hoping the 4.8 knard is slightly smaller than the Lou so I don't have to mess with spacers and such. I guess I'll be the gunea pig.

    Jensen has the 60tpi 4.8 knard for like $35. Cheap enough for me to roll the dice and give it a try front and back. If it's a no go in e back, I'll just keep it as a spare front.

  102. #902
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    Just scored a gently ridden Lou / bud set

    Getting more excited

  103. #903
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    On-One Carbon Fatty Fork | Planet X


    One more thing

    This looks like a good deal for those looking for s fork upgrade

    On-One Carbon Fatty Fork | On - One

  104. #904
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    Hey, uh if you guys were wondering...
    mongoose Vinson-pb070072s.jpg

    The Mission tires can be studded with 1/4 inch #6 screws.
    I imagine that they'd be more effective if I put a ton more on them, but I was in my experiment phase, so I said "Screw it" to spending another hour or two on the screws and just started making chains out of like ten bucks in chain plus some zip ties.

    mongoose Vinson-pb070069s.jpgmongoose Vinson-pb070070s.jpgmongoose Vinson-pb070071s.jpg

    I got about halfway done with the front wheel before I figured out a technique to keep the heads of the zipties inside the rim, which helps with clearance. the fork easily has clearance, but it'll be important when I do the back tire.

  105. #905
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    Grip Studs Screw-In Tire Studs | Traction in Ice, Snow and Dirt | 1000 Tire Stud I had a Nokian Hakkapeliitta with a slash in the sidewall, I plucked out 300 studs and I'll likely push them into 45 North Dillinger 4.8" for the rear and possibly 5.05" Vee Rubber Snowshoe up front for a lot less money than stock studded versions as they still have stud pockets. for meaty tires without such stud pockets the grip studs are the way to go.

  106. #906
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    A dollar a stud? At 150 per tire seems super cost prohibitive

    Am I missing something here?

    You can get d5 studded for 225 no?

  107. #907
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    the D5 studded goes for 250 up here, and the D4 goes for 165-225 depending on the shop.

    Either way, there's about zero chance that I'd get a 3-500 dollar set of tires for a 400 dollar bike.

    But then again, I don't race. I use this bike for hunting wolves and bears.

  108. #908
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    I understand, that's why I'm buying the $130 versions and recycling studs from dead tires! (I plucked 300 carbide studs out of a Nokian Hakkapeliitta with a slash in the side wall) I'm not fast enough to race or hunt bears and wolves... So, basically I'm bear and wolf bait. Actually I'm pretty well marbled, I would taste awesome! Any high end parts I acquire will ultimately end up on a Triton Frame, but there is no better value than a Vinson to dip your toes into fat biking!

  109. #909
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    Gotcha!!

    Thanks again for all the posts! I've thoroughly enjoyed reading through this

    My parts have started to arrive

    As to where the Vinson is??? Unclear but will arrive shortly from sports authority

    I was in a brick and mortar store and saw one and I was pretty excited

    This will make a fine number 3!

  110. #910
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    Congrats! A couple guys I met cutting new local trails rolled in on Fat bikes too! I'm anticipating snow, but if the weather holds I'm diggin new trails! it was 70 all last week! 60 today! Hopefully I'll see you posting on the mongoose fat bike, or fat bike Facebook pages too!

  111. #911
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    Quote Originally Posted by KB1JKI View Post
    I understand, that's why I'm buying the $130 versions and recycling studs from dead tires! (I plucked 300 carbide studs out of a Nokian Hakkapeliitta with a slash in the side wall) I'm not fast enough to race or hunt bears and wolves... So, basically I'm bear and wolf bait. Actually I'm pretty well marbled, I would taste awesome! Any high end parts I acquire will ultimately end up on a Triton Frame, but there is no better value than a Vinson to dip your toes into fat biking!
    yeah if I get a nice fancypants rig I'll probably do something similar. Aside from price, I'm just frankly tired of getting snooted by the local bike shops around here whenever I go looking for good tires.

    Every time I go in to the LBS to get high-end stuff (like a viscacha, or new surly handlebars or whatnot), I start talking with the dude, and he's super-friendly until he asks what kind of bike I have. then he just pretty much ends the conversation as fast as he can, which is kinda stupid on his part considering how much I spend in his shop.

    The last straw was this week when I went in with my daughter, and she said aloud "Hey, I don't see your bike in here! why don't they have your bike for sale?" and the dude replied from across the store: "That's because we don't sell trash here, sweetie."

    Another LBS owner saw my bike on my truck's rack, and told me he wouldn't sell anything to me if it was going on "That Bike", and that if I wanted to be serious about bicycles, I should buy one of the 2500 dollar bicycles in his shop.


    About the only people who don't cop an attitude with me because I have a mongoose are the guys at REI.

  112. #912
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    I've worked for REI, and several shops over the years. Some shops are clicky, cross country riders, down hill or freeride nuts, roadies, bmx punks... each with their own attitudes, bias, and elitism all to reinforce their outward ego of their inner "cool"... REI guys are kinda zen because they see the real deal that isn't some popular personality buying extreme weather hiking boots, but just some random dude hiking Everest. A lot of shops are not about the customer apparently. Even if you did have an opinion regarding Huffy for yourself or the market you support, it's about the customer (their confidence, satisfaction, and their money) as well as education. Sure, educating a customer means you are taking them seriously, and that's an opportunity to demonstrate what you know and how you can help them. instead of getting a "no" when "can I help you" is asked, "where do you ride that fat bike" is a conversation starter and leads to suggesting needs that can be answered with products. The seed is planted regardless of a sale, but more importantly they are aware you can offer insight experience, and that is why this shop stands above the rest... just in the fact that you are now already invested. If someone is looking at bikes, get them off the sales floor and on a fit bike, just establish their budget and they'll stop shopping other outfitters! Back to their misunderstanding, Schwinn, Mongoose, GT, Diamond Back and many other brands were not initially "cheap" bikes. They were the shit. Obviously that means nothing if they fail and get bought out, apparently "cool" is an impermanent state, just ask the next generation! The market rewards what sells. Big box store bikes sell. Internet shops sell. Brick and mortar best get their act together and check their attitudes. "Cheap" is subjective. If someone rides an inexpensive bike that holds up fine for their 2 mile commute once a week, they have made a sound purchase! That is perfectly respectable! If someone rides a tank up that monster hill, that is perfectly respectable! Bike shops depend on people starting to ride crappily built rigs that force them to the experts to sort out after untrained assemblers leave customers unsatisfied. You now have someone in your store! If the quality of the materials or product means that it won't stay in adjustment, tell the truth, explain why, do what you can, or sell them what they need -don't spit in their face! A disillusioned customer is no longer a customer, nor are any of their ride buddies, co workers, or their friends and families... That's the shop's bread and butter! The problem with the Dolomite is the axles and bottom brackets are not standardized and can not be ordered, so a bent or stripped axle is not something the shop can source and repair... Looking at the Vinson, there are no equivalent $500 fat bikes avail in a shop period, but the frame is standardized except for a tapered steer tube only relevant to the latest forks, and the parts are consistent with a $400 entry level mountain bike in the shop, so if it's "cheap" so are the bikes they sell! Hole in the wall shops are usually Hippy types that employ college kids, alternative lifestyle folks, stoners, and a couple teenagers to do time consuming menial crap or work for pennies while you train them. I'm guessing a snobby elitist sales dweeb that believes he's better than anyone else because he has the nicest shifters or a teenage twit that knows shit all made that remark to your kid. If that's the shop's general consensus however, they did you a favor -stay away! Larger, better established shops generally only get there because they've evolved or have a better understanding regarding the bottom line, and should attitude become more important, they will evaporate as the dinosaurs did... Just like blaming you for spending what you think is a reasonable amount of $, they also resent the competition for undercutting them. Why they are failing is because they forget they have more to offer such as service, parts on hand today, and expertise and advice so you buy once, buy right, and don't buy again for your application. It's not the consumer or the competition that they should resent, it's their own ignorance! Money, like sales is earned. Sales are earned by effective expertise in quality advice and labor consistent with the consumer's needs at a good value. They are showing their ignorance in proclaiming you are ignorant in what you purchased... apparently they don't know you or your motivations, and can not adapt nor bring you around to what they feel would serve you best like a higher end rig! The irony is, that they don't profit off bikes! after storing and pitching them, the margin is so fine it's not even worth selling them but for the fact that it draws people in. The $ is the labor, accessories, clothing, parts -the shit you're buying!! If you upgrade your parts piecemeal vs buying a whole new bike you would spend double just in margin that they would pocket. They should be cool in pointing that out and offering a bike, but fools to stop you! Print this out and just leave it on their counter...

  113. #913
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    Does at Iscg 05 mount chain guide work on a vinson?

  114. #914
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    There are frames with the mount plates to receive the chain guide back plate mount bolts as part of the bottom bracket shell. An adapter that is bolted behind the bb cup like an e-type front derailleur that allows you to mount the chain guide are available. The Vinson would require the adapter. The adapters do not prevent the back plate from rotating when the bash guard is struck as if it were part of the bb shell, but not an issue 99% of the time depending on how you ride. To The Point - Chain Guides - Pinkbike

    The newer version you speak of is for larger bb shells. if there is an adapter for the bb to the back plate of the larger shell down to the old school bb shell you're in luck. Otherwise you need to fabricate it. This looks right, http://www.amazon.com/thirteen-hive-.../dp/B001IOU5W0

    While this is only for "BSA" bb shells.
    Amazon.com : MRP BB to ISCG-05 Adapter : Sports & Outdoors
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails mongoose Vinson-1366329150439_1qx6ah89c6p8d_800_75_670.jpg  

    mongoose Vinson-e-thirteen-iscg-05-bb-mounted-chainguide-adapter-40353-e-thirteen-40353-30.jpg  


  115. #915
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    Very cool info

    Thanks!

  116. #916
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anvil_X View Post
    ... Every time I go in to the LBS to get high-end stuff (like a viscacha, or new surly handlebars or whatnot), I start talking with the dude, and he's super-friendly until he asks what kind of bike I have. ...Another LBS owner saw my bike on my truck's rack, and told me he wouldn't sell anything to me if it was going on "That Bike", and that if I wanted to be serious about bicycles, I should buy one of the 2500 dollar bicycles in his shop...
    Sure is short sighted of them. I've got a Dolo and my local fat LBS thinks it's hilarious. But then I've got 1/4" copper tube housing brake housing, and I'm working on aluminum crutches upsidedown on the rear axle for supporting a loaf seat. I've also spent lots of time pointing out to people what's cheap about my bike and how much nicer a "real" one is; the fat LBS has got around $12K of business that my bike has steered there.
    Crazy on this ship of fools...

  117. #917
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    yeah, especially since I've spent more than the bike is worth at their store in upgrades. The thing is, the normal joes that work there are good guys, and when I told them what I was up to with upgrading the vinson until I found out what I want in a 907, they were totally cool with it, and think it's awesome. their boss, the old guy who runs the place is the dill-hole that keeps treating me like crap whenever I go in there.

    Luckily, there are two other LBSs in the area that are run by really cool people, and REI is just as far from my house as the dill-hole shop. I just don't get why that dude rags on me so much. I come in his store all the time, check out the new expensive bikes, talk to a sales rep about what I'm looking to get next year when I have the cash, spend like a hundred or so bucks on something new for the vinson, then leave. For pete's sake they just had to wait a year and they'd have me buying a 907 from them PLUS the ~1,000 dollars I would have spent total on upgrades for the vinson!
    I was practically throwing money at them and he couldn't stop being a jerk.

    Oh well.

    In other news, the chained tires performed flawlessly out at the park today. And I need to get in shape.

  118. #918
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anvil_X View Post
    yeah if I get a nice fancypants rig I'll probably do something similar. Aside from price, I'm just frankly tired of getting snooted by the local bike shops around here whenever I go looking for good tires.

    Every time I go in to the LBS to get high-end stuff (like a viscacha, or new surly handlebars or whatnot), I start talking with the dude, and he's super-friendly until he asks what kind of bike I have. then he just pretty much ends the conversation as fast as he can, which is kinda stupid on his part considering how much I spend in his shop.

    The last straw was this week when I went in with my daughter, and she said aloud "Hey, I don't see your bike in here! why don't they have your bike for sale?" and the dude replied from across the store: "That's because we don't sell trash here, sweetie."

    Another LBS owner saw my bike on my truck's rack, and told me he wouldn't sell anything to me if it was going on "That Bike", and that if I wanted to be serious about bicycles, I should buy one of the 2500 dollar bicycles in his shop.


    About the only people who don't cop an attitude with me because I have a mongoose are the guys at REI.
    That's just flat out $hitty. I would have kept my composure in front of my daughter, but I would have gone back and had words with him without my daughter. I certainly wouldn't set foot in that place again.

    I think KB1JKI hit the nail on the head with his post. It's just such bad business...he's intentionally trying to embarrass his customers. Purely dumb.

    On a separate note my Vinson showed up today a day early. I opened the box and to my surprise it is sporting Kenda Juggernaut 60tpi tires, not the Vee Mission tires I expected. I have two big Knards coming in from Jenson on Wed, and was planning on switching the stock tires out immediately but now I'm not sure if I will.

    I'm only two weeks past a crash that left me with a separated shoulder and some fractured or strained ribs, so I can't even ride yet, and once I can, I'll be cruising some local rail trails for a while until I'm healed Well enough to hit the trails. I have about 1-2 miles of road to ride to get to the rail trail, and the trail is packed gravel and hard pack dirt. These tires might be well suited for it. I thought about throwing a set of mini ape hanger MC handlebars onto one of my bikes so I can ride now without any pressure on my shoulder, just to scoot around the neighborhood with my kids, but I know that's an awful idea.

    Anyway, for those that ordered around the same time as me, maybe you'll have the Kendas as well.

  119. #919
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    Mine arrived today. A weeks turn around

    Unexpected but what a surprise

    Already have bud mounted on the front

    A 65mm stem and some race face ride goodies with some avid calipers

    should have it ready to roll in a day

    Now if only the rain holds off

    Thanks for all the advice

    I'll post a complete pic soon
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails mongoose Vinson-image.jpg  


  120. #920
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    Hey, speaking of assembly, does anybody know what the seatpost tube diameter is off the top of their heads? I'm looking to get a Redshift seatpost to make it easier for me to use the horns of my Casey's Crazy Bar while still being able to switch back to normal geometry.

  121. #921
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    31.6

    I had a seat post in the bin that was 31.6 and fit perfectly

  122. #922
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    thanks!

    if it weren't for the logo, I don't think that Mongoose would recognize my bike soon..

  123. #923
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    Quote Originally Posted by Canoe View Post
    Sure is short sighted of them. I've got a Dolo and my local fat LBS thinks it's hilarious. But then I've got 1/4" copper tube housing brake housing, and I'm working on aluminum crutches upsidedown on the rear axle for supporting a loaf seat. I've also spent lots of time pointing out to people what's cheap about my bike and how much nicer a "real" one is; the fat LBS has got around $12K of business that my bike has steered there.
    exactly

  124. #924
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    I'll have to put the calipers on the stock UNO post, pretty sure it isn't 31.6. the stock 30.9 post from my Giant Trance fit real snug and didn't slide in very smooth as it was machined like a Thomson so you can hear the rough surface if you scratch at it with a finger nail. I had to bust out the flex hone to get a Giant Contact Switch Dropper in there which is only avail in 30.9. It is possible that later generations of Vinson have a different spec. Get the bike first and measure it before ordering.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails mongoose Vinson-capture.jpg  


  125. #925
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    I'll just throw my buddy's redshift in there and see if it fits. pretty sure he's got all of their shims too, so we'll find out by trial and error.


    BTW, I did a second test of the improvised tire chains..... and they're freakin awful. I was going downhill and pedaling as hard as I could to maintain speed. Great for traction on ice though.

    So I'm probably going to cut them off tomorrow.

  126. #926
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    Just as well dude. plastic zip ties become brittle in the cold and tend to snap. You probably would have caught a chain in the teeth. There are metal zip ties, but there is the potential of slicing into the tire. There is the question of durability, but perhaps smaller diameter chain or even cable would work. if you mated cable hoops on either side of the tire with cables running over the top of the tire and slightly smaller than the tire diameter, then inflating the tire would secure them in place without the need for securing around the rim. I should think that even cutting steel bead from an old set of tires and connecting them with steel cable over the top of the tire would be light, grab ice and snow, and have far less drag than chain. the hardware would be simple, a wire cable crimp sleeve should do it... make your two cable hoops that are the outer rim diameter. hoop your cross cables at one end through the cable crimps and crimp them. slide the hoop cable through the cross cable hoop ends and crimp the hoop closed. with the tire under inflated, set the wheel on its side with the hoop and cross cables under it. set the second crimped closed hoop on top of the wheel. pull a cross cable over the tire, pass through the cable crimp, around the hoop facing you and back through the crimp. Do the same at the opposite point of the wheel, then the pair 90 from that pair and around the wheel as if you are tightening car tire lugs. once the hoops are roughly centered on both sidewalls, then use a 4th hand tool to gradually pull the cables tighter 3mm at a time in pairs at opposite points on the wheel and crimp. Use SIS cutters to trim the excess. This is important, peel the tire off the rim, pluck it out from inside the cable web, and coat the cable crimps with 2 part epoxy to cover the ends of the cables. should you or your clothing touch spinning wheels with exposed steel wire, crash onto or into someone or slide a body part across exposed steel wire you could be slashed, disfigured or maimed. So balls of epoxy should cover your cable ends.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails mongoose Vinson-100-1009crimps625.jpg  


  127. #927
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    Carbon Fiber Fenders.

    I've done a little poking around for a winter fender solution for the Vinson and came across Ryan in Racine, Wisconsin who builds carbon fiber racing fenders for himself and his ice-biking buddies. He was kind enough to hit up a pal who works for Pacific for a Vinson to test fit them with. I just wanted to share the mock up with the forum in case anyone else is interested in fenders for the upcoming winter season!

    mongoose Vinson-2015-11-09-18.44.48.jpgmongoose Vinson-2015-11-09-18.45.07.jpgmongoose Vinson-2015-11-09-18.45.13.jpgmongoose Vinson-2015-11-09-18.45.46.jpg

    His listing on eBay for these is:

    Ice Racing carbon fiber kevlar motorcycle fender 18" 19" 21" wheel Cafe Racer


    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ice-Racing-carbon-fiber-kevlar-motorcycle-fender-18-19-21-wheel-Cafe-Racer-/331548977849?hash=item4d31dbeab9:g:FhsAAOSwBLlVTA1 r&vxp=mtr

    Ride ON!

  128. #928
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    Quote Originally Posted by KB1JKI View Post
    Just as well dude. plastic zip ties become brittle in the cold and tend to snap. You probably would have caught a chain in the teeth. There are metal zip ties, but there is the potential of slicing into the tire. There is the question of durability, but perhaps smaller diameter chain or even cable would work. if you mated cable hoops on either side of the tire with cables running over the top of the tire and slightly smaller than the tire diameter, then inflating the tire would secure them in place without the need for securing around the rim. I should think that even cutting steel bead from an old set of tires and connecting them with steel cable over the top of the tire would be light, grab ice and snow, and have far less drag than chain. the hardware would be simple, a wire cable crimp sleeve should do it... make your two cable hoops that are the outer rim diameter. hoop your cross cables at one end through the cable crimps and crimp them. slide the hoop cable through the cross cable hoop ends and crimp the hoop closed. with the tire under inflated, set the wheel on its side with the hoop and cross cables under it. set the second crimped closed hoop on top of the wheel. pull a cross cable over the tire, pass through the cable crimp, around the hoop facing you and back through the crimp. Do the same at the opposite point of the wheel, then the pair 90 from that pair and around the wheel as if you are tightening car tire lugs. once the hoops are roughly centered on both sidewalls, then use a 4th hand tool to gradually pull the cables tighter 3mm at a time in pairs at opposite points on the wheel and crimp. Use SIS cutters to trim the excess. This is important, peel the tire off the rim, pluck it out from inside the cable web, and coat the cable crimps with 2 part epoxy to cover the ends of the cables. should you or your clothing touch spinning wheels with exposed steel wire, crash onto or into someone or slide a body part across exposed steel wire you could be slashed, disfigured or maimed. So balls of epoxy should cover your cable ends.
    good point! totally didn't occur to me that the chains would fly off like that. Another possible solution, since I have a TON of zip ties, is to just run those around the tire. that way, if they break, I can just replace the sucker in ten seconds and not have metal of any kind on the tire. the next step would be a test of your wire idea if the ziptiees don't fly.

    either that, or I'll just continue inserting quarter inch screws for redneck studs.

    Quote Originally Posted by FatVinson View Post
    I've done a little poking around for a winter fender solution for the Vinson and came across Ryan in Racine, Wisconsin who builds carbon fiber racing fenders for himself and his ice-biking buddies. He was kind enough to hit up a pal who works for Pacific for a Vinson to test fit them with. I just wanted to share the mock up with the forum in case anyone else is interested in fenders for the upcoming winter season!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    His listing on eBay for these is:

    Ice Racing carbon fiber kevlar motorcycle fender 18" 19" 21" wheel Cafe Racer


    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ice-Racing-carbon-fiber-kevlar-motorcycle-fender-18-19-21-wheel-Cafe-Racer-/331548977849?hash=item4d31dbeab9:g:FhsAAOSwBLlVTA1 r&vxp=mtr

    Ride ON!

    That's freakin' neat-o dude.


    I've been using these guys for a while. they cost about 40 bucks for the set at the LBS, and they're adjustable/removable, which works great when I'm doing some gnarly stuff like really muddy singletrack, and when I need to switch out the roostertail for my viscacha on hunts or other long-range tomfoolery. the only thing that stinks is the attach method on the seatpost. I wrapped my seatpost in griptape to give it that little extra traction

    mongoose Vinson-img00026.jpg

    mongoose Vinson-img00023.jpg

    Those carbon fiber ones would be pretty sweet for in-town mayhem though. What are those things using as attachment points to the frame?

  129. #929
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    Good job!

    Quote Originally Posted by Anvil_X View Post
    Those carbon fiber ones would be pretty sweet for in-town mayhem though. What are those things using as attachment points to the frame?
    He's working up some mounting options this week, but it looks pretty straight forward since the Vinson already has many of the holes already in place on the frame. The front fender is going to need a little something extra to secure the top and bottom, but I'm thinking little aluminum stays should do the trick. The thing I'm looking forward to is having a fender that will divert most of the muck away from the chain and derailleurs. I'll post more pics once I get them mounted.

  130. #930
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    Quote Originally Posted by FatVinson View Post
    He's working up some mounting options this week, but it looks pretty straight forward since the Vinson already has many of the holes already in place on the frame. The front fender is going to need a little something extra to secure the top and bottom, but I'm thinking little aluminum stays should do the trick. The thing I'm looking forward to is having a fender that will divert most of the muck away from the chain and derailleurs. I'll post more pics once I get them mounted.
    away from the chains..... oh boy, I know about that mess....mongoose Vinson-img00054.jpg

  131. #931
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anvil_X View Post
    away from the chains..... oh boy, I know about that mess....Click image for larger version. 

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    Chain? What chain??

    If you mount the carbon fiber fenders close enough to the tire they may do double duty as tread scrapers too!!

  132. #932
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    For those out there who mounted bud and Lou, how did you adjust the gearing to allow for clearance from the chain

  133. #933
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    Those fenders are gorgeous. I'm cheap though... I copied a split fender mod seen on this page: http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/yet...ml#post9001741
    I like it. Props to the OP. I ordered PlanetX 29er fenders, drilled out all the rivets and separated the hardware. Then, I used masking tape to create a cut line and used tin snips to split the fenders down the middle. I did the same around the circumference of a Rubbermaid trash can from TrueValue Hardware Store ($14.99) and fastened together with 3/16" rivets, using washers where the hardware wasn't. I cut an 8 cm wide strip for the rear fender, and a 10 cm wide strip for the front fender. there is an inch gap around the 4" tires, it is out of the way of the front derailleur, there are spacers to clear the calipers... but on the Vinson, I had to use small random aluminum 1/4" ID tubes as spacers at the fork tips. the fenders are gloss and the plastic can strips are semi gloss. they are both black and similar shades, but a camera makes them appear more different than they otherwise look. When you cut around a barrel that tapers, realize there is a subtle curve, knowing this now I would cut a little larger, lay it out and cut straighter strips for more easily avoiding gaps or twisting. start riveting at one end and do one side at a time. tin snips and rivet guns really tone the forearms! no more grit, grime, salt, glass, dirt, carrion, swill in my eyes and teeth, or being drenched by frigid water. I am impressed with the strength of the fenders, and prefer the aesthetic to other fender mods I have seen.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails mongoose Vinson-p1530928_edited.jpg  


  134. #934
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    Quote Originally Posted by KB1JKI View Post
    Those fenders are gorgeous. I'm cheap though... I copied a split fender mod seen on this page: http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/yet...ml#post9001741
    I like it. Props to the OP.
    THOSE were the fenders that started my fender hunt in the first place! I was thinking how cool it would be if they were carbon fiber, and one thing led to another. I think that gorgeous fenders are gonna dress this 'Goose up nicely and still keep the carrion outta my teeth.

    BTW- I'm really amazed at how fast this bike is!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails mongoose Vinson-image.jpg  

    Last edited by FatVinson; 11-10-2015 at 06:59 PM. Reason: Add pic

  135. #935
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    Quote Originally Posted by KB1JKI View Post
    I'll have to put the calipers on the stock UNO post, pretty sure it isn't 31.6. the stock 30.9 post from my Giant Trance fit real snug and didn't slide in very smooth as it was machined like a Thomson so you can hear the rough surface if you scratch at it with a finger nail. I had to bust out the flex hone to get a Giant Contact Switch Dropper in there which is only avail in 30.9. It is possible that later generations of Vinson have a different spec. Get the bike first and measure it before ordering.
    Unboxed mine today in prep for assembly. My post is stamped 31.6. With calipers it measures out closer to 31.45. The seat tube ID measure closer to 31.75. Post drops in easy...almost too easy. If a 30.9 is tight on yours, something is definitely different than mine.

  136. #936
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    well I took off the chains on the rear wheel, and I'm going to see if keeping the front chains on is manageable tonight on the Campbell creek trail.

    But when I took it for a spin this morning, I noticed the derailleur was pretty out-of-tolerance, and that my cable tension device on the stock SRAM shifter was popped out. I put it back in place and tested the shifting, but it's not going so hot. it won't go into the lowest gear, and some of the shifts are double.

    I looked up some videos on adjusting the SRAM and it seems pretty straightforward, but do you guys have any tips about tuning the stock shifter on this thing?

  137. #937
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    Making some headway here

    Lou and bud are mounted

    I bought a tube but I think the tube is damaged as kept popping off bud up front. I inflated the tube outside of the wheels and it bulged funny. I put back in the oem tube and that setup ok

    Have to play with gearing as too much rub with Lou

    I removed the crank and Really like the simplicity of a 1x

    If I put the cog on the outside of the crank I have plenty of clearance but not being a nw I will be dropping s chain like crazy. So I need to suck it up and order that or a clutch derailleur

    Looking forward to a maiden voyage

    Sadly travel and work plans and slowing this down
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails mongoose Vinson-image.jpg  


  138. #938
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    Quote Originally Posted by blidner View Post
    Making some headway here

    Lou and bud are mounted

    I bought a tube but I think the tube is damaged as kept popping off bud up front. I inflated the tube outside of the wheels and it bulged funny. I put back in the oem tube and that setup ok

    Have to play with gearing as too much rub with Lou

    I removed the crank and Really like the simplicity of a 1x

    If I put the cog on the outside of the crank I have plenty of clearance but not being a nw I will be dropping s chain like crazy. So I need to suck it up and order that or a clutch derailleur

    Looking forward to a maiden voyage

    Sadly travel and work plans and slowing this down
    -----
    I ran into a similar issue - front tire (Bud) seemed fine.
    The Lou (back tire) seemed to be sort of ...warped? The little rubber hairs that stuck out seemed matted down like it was used, and there was some dirt. I'd hate to think Jenson sold me a slightly used tire 'as' a new tire. I went ahead and mounted it up anyway.

    I also had a slight rub in granny / granny.
    I've tried two things.
    With my XT (34 tooth) 9spd cassette, I took a small spacer from an old road cassette, put it behind the cassette and it spaced it enough. Although it didn't leave much thread for the cassette lockring.

    I then ordered a cheap shimano cassette (HG400) in order to try 36 tooth. I probably shouldn't have done this as it gives me the occassional pop / claing. But it works.
    With this cassette, I actually removed the smallest gear, and put a bigger spacer from my XT cassette behind it. This allowed me to use more of the thread to tighten the cassette on.
    However, this left me putting the cassette lock-ring on a gear with no 'grooves' to really lock it in place, so I'll need to keep an eye on it.

    A better option would have been to pick up a Race Face crankset 1x or 2x but I just don't want to put $200 in a crank for this bike.
    I mentioned this before, but the SRAM X5 crank will not work for this bike. Q-factor is way too narrow for 190 rear hub spacing.

  139. #939
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    This afternoon i removed the cranks, so that i could remove the bottom bracket, and then the front derailleur. I am going to go for a 1 x. I really like the simplicity. I have a 30t on order.

    Then we ride!

  140. #940
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    Quote Originally Posted by ztbishop View Post
    -----

    A better option would have been to pick up a Race Face crankset 1x or 2x but I just don't want to put $200 in a crank for this bike.
    I mentioned this before, but the SRAM X5 crank will not work for this bike. Q-factor is way too narrow for 190 rear hub spacing.
    Race face released a cheaper direct mount crank recently. Still probably around $150 with a bottom bracket, but a lot cheaper than the cinch.

    Typed on my phone. Pardon the autocorrect.

  141. #941
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    FSA Comet Fat Bike Crank, 22/36t 175mm Black No Packaging

    Amazon.com : FSA Comet 22/36T Fat Bicycle Crankset (175mm x 22/36T) : Sports & Outdoors


    FSA Comet Fat Bike 100mm - BB Standard (2015 graphic) - FSA

    Keep your eyes open for deals... if you keep 8s, put 1mm thick washers behind the granny gear, not too thick for the chain to drop between rings but thick enough to keep the chain from scrubbing the shift pins on the big ring from the granny in the 4 smallest cogs. (I suspect you would have to do that with any 10s crank with 8s chain.) The cranks are a strong and light upgrade, clear the frame and the wider stance and larger bearings and spindle make for a much stiffer and more durable setup that works on a Vinson.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails mongoose Vinson-p1530928_edited.jpg  


  142. #942
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    Speaking of cranks, I just got back from the bike shop, and my outer ring on my crank is bent.
    This is the second bent crank on this bike. the two inner crank rings are still good, so it's not that big of a deal for at least the next eight months, and I plan on shaving off the outer crank ring's teeth and adjusting the front derailleur to prevent shifting into that ring (basically turning it into a redneck chainguard).

    Anybody know of a good 22-32-42 crank that has a solid guard that'll actually protect this seriously exposed crank?

  143. #943
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    I am a fan of the redneck bash guard, but if it bent once...as far as filing the teeth off, that's what rocks are for! BlackSpire and a few others make bash guards that cover big rigs. The stock crank is no more exposed than any other crank on a big spindle needed so the crank arm clears the chain stays. If this is also a woods bike there is a better way to remedy the issue.
    Lose the big ring and install a smaller bash guard. There are bash guards for 40T rings, but you can gain clearance by losing the ring! I got a Sun Race 11-34T 8s cassette that gave me both lower and higher gears that rendered the big ring obsolete! (in the 36T ring and 11T cog, I'm still pedaling down hill on the street!) While rocks and logs are easier to get over. You can find Shimano Saint bash guards for $10 on line!

    http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-FC-M80...mano+bashguard

  144. #944
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    somehow I missed a few posts. Fat Vinson The carbon fenders posted earlier are awesome, I just assumed they were likely pricey. I would get them if I felt they were reasonably priced. They will also be much stiffer so you won't have to add superballs as rollers for the rear fender like I had to. This guy also makes good stuff, Big O Manufacturing and I know another kid that want's to do similar stuff but wood grain from Salem Cycle... There is one guy making wood grain stained fenders that are beautiful... but I wouldn't want to drag it over rocks like I do now. One cool thing I've seen are recycled skate and snowboards as fenders. The graphics are sweet and they look right beat up! There is more resistance with fenders when the tires pack up with stupid amounts of mud, but you won't be spitting mud or wiping your eyes. Anvil X, I would discourage riding trails that wet "what chain?". Fat tires wouldn't damage the trail in conditions where thinner tires would, but even fat tires displacing that much contribute to erosion. (I'm sure that wasn't a trail but a garden you were tilling. Yet, it's worth mentioning.) ztbishop, good luck with the mods... the aforementioned FSA comet fat bike 2 piece 2x 10 crank works, but I'm running a 4.5" rear tire with about 5 mm clearance to the lugs (22/34)... hmmm. a 4.8" tire with 8 mm lugs may indeed be problematic. Dishing the wheel doesn't seem like a good idea where you may only have 5 mm clearance to either side of the tire. You very well may have to go 34T or 32T single and run a one up 40T so you can granny without rub and dump the smallest chain ring altogether (likely equiv gear) and keep an 11T small cog so you have a fair high gear, and you won't have to lose a cog or worry about the lock ring and maintain a full spectrum of gears while clearing those lugs.

  145. #945
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    Quote Originally Posted by KB1JKI View Post
    I am a fan of the redneck bash guard, but if it bent once...as far as filing the teeth off, that's what rocks are for! BlackSpire and a few others make bash guards that cover big rigs. The stock crank is no more exposed than any other crank on a big spindle needed so the crank arm clears the chain stays. If this is also a woods bike there is a better way to remedy the issue.
    Lose the big ring and install a smaller bash guard. There are bash guards for 40T rings, but you can gain clearance by losing the ring! I got a Sun Race 11-34T 8s cassette that gave me both lower and higher gears that rendered the big ring obsolete! (in the 36T ring and 11T cog, I'm still pedaling down hill on the street!) While rocks and logs are easier to get over. You can find Shimano Saint bash guards for $10 on line!

    http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-FC-M80...mano+bashguard
    sweet. I found a replacement 3x crank with a bash guard on there. thanks.

    Oh and BTW, you were on the money with those zipties. I took the rig out tonight to test the concept of a chained front and slick rear (to keep turning traction in front while reducing rolling resistance).

    after about a mile of singletrack the first ziptie broke. It luckily didn't fly off or do anything crazy, it just stayed in place on the tire due to the location of the break and made the rest of the ride home pretty noisy.

    So I'm going to remove them all later tonight.

  146. #946
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    Quote Originally Posted by FatVinson View Post
    Has anyone managed to put a front suspension fork on their Vinson??

    I picked up a Vinson at Sports Authority a few weeks ago thanks in a large part to this thread. This thing is a blast!
    However, yesterdays ride through miles of boulder filled New England single track has me feeling like I just ripped up a sidewalk with a jackhammer. Still, the boys on their full suspension 29'ers were all ready to go get a fatbike for this winter!
    I am seriously looking for some 100 mm plus suspension forks that'll fit the 1 1/8 head tube, and that rules out the RockShox Bluto's unless I'm missing something.

    Does anyone have a suspension setup in front that's working for them?
    Thanks!
    ebay ? - idk what you're looking for but for $140 - I think you'll need some thru axle adapters

  147. #947
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    Quote Originally Posted by KB1JKI View Post
    I'll have to put the calipers on the stock UNO post, pretty sure it isn't 31.6. the stock 30.9 post from my Giant Trance fit real snug and didn't slide in very smooth as it was machined like a Thomson so you can hear the rough surface if you scratch at it with a finger nail. I had to bust out the flex hone to get a Giant Contact Switch Dropper in there which is only avail in 30.9. It is possible that later generations of Vinson have a different spec. Get the bike first and measure it before ordering.
    the newer ( 2nd gens ) come with 31.6 seat posts and kenda juggernaut tires

  148. #948
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    cool. i'm glad I got 1st gen, as I love my dropper, and I never would have upgraded to floaters if it had juggs stock! The 2nd gen is great!

  149. #949
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    If there is someone in the Boston area who wants to jugs please let me know

    I've removed them for larger volume and would be happy to pass them along to a fellow vinsoner as a trade or whatever we can work out as fair to you

    I'm still waiting for my front chain ring to arrive so that I can ride this beast. Looking like it will be my Monday evening ride with the lights

    I'm really looking forward to the snow this with one. I have high high hopes

  150. #950
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    Got the one up 96 bcd front cog (thanks heavens for those little spacers as it is not a perfect fit)

    And the mega range cassette for a 30 x 34 total range (hope it's enough)

    Having some challenges indexing the gearing but I will ask a buddy

    Maiden voyage days away
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails mongoose Vinson-image.jpg  

    mongoose Vinson-image.jpg  


  151. #951
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    Quote Originally Posted by blidner View Post
    If there is someone in the Boston area who wants to jugs please let me know

    I've removed them for larger volume and would be happy to pass them along to a fellow vinsoner as a trade or whatever we can work out as fair to you

    I'm still waiting for my front chain ring to arrive so that I can ride this beast. Looking like it will be my Monday evening ride with the lights

    I'm really looking forward to the snow this with one. I have high high hopes
    unless you are running a 1x8 (or 9/10/11s cassette) you'll notice the chain will scrub your tire from the granny in the larger cogs with tires larger than 4.5" on your Vinson. I run a Kenda Jugg 4.5" in the rear with 5mm clearance. a 4.7 would be tight for chain clearance but fit fine in the frame.

  152. #952
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    I'm planning to run a 1 x 8

    It's mm of clearance in the chain

    If I were running tubeless and the tires stretched a little would be no dice!

  153. #953
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    Finally built mine up. Swapped out some pieces between the Vinson and one of my beater bikes. Borderline whethe rthe swaps are upgrades, more just preference. Here's some of teh changes I made:

    -Deore LX Rear Mech
    -STXRC shifters
    -ODI Longneck grips
    -Shimano Cables and housings with full length housings.
    -Tektro Brake Levers
    -60mm Bontrager Stem
    -Azonic Worldforce Bars
    -Generic Beartrap Pedals
    -Surly Knard 4.8 front tire. Bought a pair, but one had defects, so stock on rear
    -Bontrager SSR seat

    A few things I noticed. None were a surprise after reading the forum.

    1) The seat seemed to be installed by a gorilla. Definitely overtightened.
    2) The stock chain had not been cut to the appropriate length.
    3) Calipers were not aligned. I could not get the front perfectly aligned. Will try further, but I think it is due to a less than perfect fork. Mine isn't as bad as some, but I don't think it's perfect.
    4) Brakes feel relatively weak, but I know some said they get better after they bed in. It's also the heaviest bike I own, with a lot of mass in the wheels, so that may just be the fatbike attributes I'm feeling.
    5) I think the big 4.8 Knard on the rear will have chainrub.


    Fit is great. I am healing from a separated shoulder and fractured ribs, so all I can do is pedal around gingerly, but it feels pretty good. It feels a little "odd" in general with the giant tires as to be expected, but it's my first time trying a fatbike. For the price paid, I couldn't be more pleased.

    Hoping to get my first real ride in since I crashed this weekend; a 10-15 mile rail trail ride to get a real feel of this thing, and see what I might need to adjust. So far, really pleased.

    I suspect the big ring up front will be useless for my needs. I would prefer a 2x or better yet a 1x crank with a wide range cassette. However given what I paid, I'll probably leave it as is.

    Oh yeah, easiest bike ever to track stand on haha.






  154. #954
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    Sweet dude! the LX brakes and Tektro levers are definitely upgrades! As is your front floater! (looks like snow and mud may pack up in a Knard, but sweet for hard pack/dirt jump and minimal roll resistance!) The shifters are likely equiv but the SRAM derailleur and shifters have proprietary cable pull ratio, I'm not sure how happy indexing will be. Full length housings are probably better for winter commuting but may also make indexing sluggish. With Shimano cables, they're stainless and the housings have a nylon sleeve so open housings shouldn't be problematic as corrosion isn't an issue as it would be with the stock cables. I upgraded to FSA Comet 2 piece with external bearings when my BB died and installed a bash guard. There are fewer 96 mm BCD bash guards avail for the stock crank, at least there are fewer cheap ones! (104 mm Shimano Saint bash guards can be had for $10!) of course, you could just trim the teeth off the big ring! The bars look sweet and the stock stem is a bit long for most, the chain stays are crazy long too. That's handy for climbing but with the longer wheel base and massive tires, the thing would nose dive on me off drops and it was tough getting the front end over stuff until I slapped a 50 mm stem on... but I'm 5'8". It may not be worth fiddling with adapter bits, but if you could, it would be better to get the nicer caliper on the front. I have been very content with a Kenda Jugg 4.5" run reverse in the rear with a 2x8. I am thinking in regards to rubber (as I'm otherwise content with 4.9"Chao/4.5"Kenda) only in regards to tires that may receive studs. I have 300 studs and the tool. I may do 4.7" rear and see if I can slam in the 2XL Snowshoe up front... I have 10s Barcon shifters, so with a chain, RD, and cassette upgrade I can do a one-up 40T cog upgrade and drop the granny up front... But now I'm essentially buying the bike all over again! I cracked a few ribs in early summer... sucks man, get better! I don't remember what the stock cassette is, 12-32T? Anyway, I got an 11-34T and the big ring is obsolete, if I did pick up a lower gear over stock that was just added luxury! CASSETTE SUNRACE CSM66 11-34 NICKEL 8s - BikemanforU.com

  155. #955
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    Quote Originally Posted by KB1JKI View Post
    Sweet dude! the LX brakes and Tektro levers are definitely upgrades! As is your front floater! (looks like snow and mud may pack up in a Knard, but sweet for hard pack/dirt jump and minimal roll resistance!) The shifters are likely equiv but the SRAM derailleur and shifters have proprietary cable pull ratio, I'm not sure how happy indexing will be. Full length housings are probably better for winter commuting but may also make indexing sluggish. With Shimano cables, they're stainless and the housings have a nylon sleeve so open housings shouldn't be problematic as corrosion isn't an issue as it would be with the stock cables. I upgraded to FSA Comet 2 piece with external bearings when my BB died and installed a bash guard. There are fewer 96 mm BCD bash guards avail for the stock crank, at least there are fewer cheap ones! (104 mm Shimano Saint bash guards can be had for $10!) of course, you could just trim the teeth off the big ring! The bars look sweet and the stock stem is a bit long for most, the chain stays are crazy long too. That's handy for climbing but with the longer wheel base and massive tires, the thing would nose dive on me off drops and it was tough getting the front end over stuff until I slapped a 50 mm stem on... but I'm 5'8". It may not be worth fiddling with adapter bits, but if you could, it would be better to get the nicer caliper on the front. I have been very content with a Kenda Jugg 4.5" run reverse in the rear with a 2x8. I am thinking in regards to rubber (as I'm otherwise content with 4.9"Chao/4.5"Kenda) only in regards to tires that may receive studs. I have 300 studs and the tool. I may do 4.7" rear and see if I can slam in the 2XL Snowshoe up front... I have 10s Barcon shifters, so with a chain, RD, and cassette upgrade I can do a one-up 40T cog upgrade and drop the granny up front... But now I'm essentially buying the bike all over again! I cracked a few ribs in early summer... sucks man, get better! I don't remember what the stock cassette is, 12-32T? Anyway, I got an 11-34T and the big ring is obsolete, if I did pick up a lower gear over stock that was just added luxury! CASSETTE SUNRACE CSM66 11-34 NICKEL 8s - BikemanforU.com
    Oops, I should clarify, I added an LX rear derailleur. Stuck with stock brakes. I did it more because I like shimano shifters. I like using two fingers, although logically thinking about it, using only a thumb as SRAM does makes more sense, but it's just not what I'm used to. I did put the SRAM dear and shifters on my beater, so maybe I'll get used to them. I wouldn't mix the fronts (shimano /SRAM). Given the 2:1 vs 1:1 ratios, I agree indexing would be a nightmare. Can't imagine it would work.

    Those bars are uncut. They are very wide. I didn't like them on the skinnier tire beater they came off of, but the extra width feels good on this bike. A little leverage seems to be needed with a giant tire. I'm glad I never got around to cutting them.

    I just started running everything with full length housings. This is my 4th bike setup this way. My thinking was, it's easier to setup, and less places for gunk to get in the cables. Just makes sense. I suppose you could lose some shifting feel, and add some weight, but I haven't noticed any loss of crispness to my shifting. If you change out cables annually as your probably supposed to, it likely doesn't matter one way or another, but I'm guilty of running cables for a loooong time. Low maintenance is key for me.

    I think your right about these tires. I think they'll be marginal in the snow. Size should help for float, but they'll probably pack up and give so so traction. Thing is, they were only $35 each. I've since found out Jenson mis-priced them. They are back to $110. I have to say tire prices are crazy. That's about what I just paid for a rear sport motorcycle tire!

    Your crank setup sounds perfect. Stock setup really isn't, but I'll run it til it breaks. Not looking to put a ton of money into this bike. I received my new Knard rear tire today, but I don't think I'm going to mount it. I want to use the granny gear, and it seems quite unlikely it will clear with this setup. 11-34 would be great. Stock is indeed 12-32. I thought about robbing an 11-32 from my wife's bike(she never rides it) but didn't really see a point with the current crank. If it was an 11-34 I would have. I cut out of work early today, and took my older two kids for a quick railtrailbike ride. Only got a few miles as that's all my 5 yr old can do before her legs get rubbery, but it felt great. I was surprised how well it rolled on the hard packed dirt/gravel trail. Somehow I thought the tires would make it more sluggish. I have the pressure way up though...around 13-14lbs. I had to fight the urge to go off e trail, because my body can't handle it currently, but I wanted to so bad. One thing I noticed is this fork flexes like crazy! It's a little unnerving. Between the flex and the brake not lining up perfect, I would consider swapping this out if I can find a low budget replacement. I wouldn't expect an aluminum fork to be this flexy. I have rigid aluminum forks on two other bikes, and they are way stiffer.

    The rib thing is something else. It's a first for me. I've had lots of other fractures, but this has been the worst pain wise. Sneezing, coughing even blowing my nose was incredibly painful for quite a while. Just now at almost 4 weeks I can sneeze without complete panic. Still hurts, but not nowhere near the level it did 3 was ago. Then again, I could just be turning into a sissy as I get older.

  156. #956
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    Riding with 5 yo... Awwww. So cool! What a steal on those tires! Good to get testimony on full length setup, another nice thing about smooth Shimano cables! (the LX RD is an upgrade and now it makes sense!)

    Low pressure is where you'll really appreciate those wider bars. (initially I was averse to them as well, but I prefer wide bars and "kayaking" around trees on single track better than wrist injury!) I have a big bulge at the center of my FUNN bars so I'm limited how inboard I can set up my levers. Regretting bobbing an inch off each end. I needed to move my saddle back as well as get the short stem, (probably because the stays are so long) but I can't get a more set back dropper. So for seated climbs I had to add 2 position bar ends. At Low tire pressure, will actually have to push out on the bar inside of the turn to counter "self steer" on uber fat tires at silly low pressures on asphalt or ultra hard surfaces... and that can also piss off the sidewalls while they crinkle under shear forces. Obviously that's never an issue in mud, sand, and snow where you want low pressure and float.

    Notice that if you have the tires at a high "14 psi" they have a nice crowned profile and when you roll through a puddle they leave a 2" wide track. It's almost like they are rolling the same surface area of many 2.2" tires, but maintain that contact patch in a wicked lean! Dropping to 5 psi, especially on larger than 4" tires is a whole different animal. You will pinch flat on sharp edges at speed at those pressures, but that's harder on snow. As far as pack up in the knobs, for snow it has everything to do with temp and water content, cold days no biggie. roadside slush and good snowball days will be problematic or add to the silly fun. Packed up tires on the roadside down hill in dense traffic -NOT FUN.

    You can slap almost any tire up front, fit a 4.7" in the back and clear 1Xwhatever drivetrain. I have been very content with a $60 60 TPI 4.5" 5 MM lug (lugs arranged in cooperative rows to act like paddles) with 1" voids between rows of lugs for fantastic shed Kenda Juggernaut. She floats fine under my fat ass at 5 PSI! I have not had to modify my drivetrain and it seems to be the cheapest satisfactory tire upgrade regarding the rear. Oh, these tires throw oodles of water and will coat you in a layer of icy slush! I've gone full fender for commutes!

    A few weeks to chill is a must. It's not even re injury, but the fact that in doing so, ribs can puncture stuff they're supposed to protect. Also, busted ribs are like broken toes, the most a doc can do is give you aspirin and sympathize. However, if your breathing is shallow you can develop pneumonia. I'm 42 and it took me 4 weeks before I could sneeze without making a fuss, 6 weeks before I could sleep right, etc... Hopefully you got that checked out!

    Yeah, the fork chatters bad when braking heavily and releasing... very unnerving as aluminum fatigues. I've had carbon bars and I don't do much drops but carbon can fail catastrophically and I ride east coast granite, so I'm hesitant but the Sarma and One-on are maybe's. (not that steel won't fail, it just does so in a more friendly manner, and I have seen some fold above the caliper mount) I will say that I can cause similar chatter on a friend's Moonlander and suspect the mass of the wheel/tire contributes. This may be a fatty phenomenon, Ti would be worse but you can build larger diameter to compensate and maintain decent weight... Carbon fatiguing is less of an issue. Stock fork hasn't failed for a year of daily commuting use and 1-3, 5-8 MI off road rides every week (usually twice weekly) on tech singletrack.

    The $30 cassette with higher and lower gears made a big difference on and off road and dropping the big ring for a poly bash guard slides me over lots of stuff on the trails, another worthy cheap upgrade. The 11T cog will allow you to drag the big ring over rocks without worry as you'll never really need it. (Seems terminal velocity on most DH means I'm still pedaling in 36/11 on road! On real steep it's more efficient just to tuck!) I would love to do TRP Spyke brakes, but instead (as I'm also "frugal") I found some "take off" caliper only Avid BB-7's from Cambriabikes. Just OEM stuff resold for dirt. I had to add half a brake washer to the stock adapters, werx gud.

    I have included a comparison shot of 4" vs 4.5" Kenda Juggs, and one of my 4.5" Jugg and 4.9" ChaoYang (Panasonic fat tire featuring Pannaracer FatbNimble tread)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails mongoose Vinson-kenda-juggernaut-fat-bike-tire-452x800.jpg  

    mongoose Vinson-11041956.jpg  


  157. #957
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    A 4.8" Schwalbe Jumbo Jim or 4.6" Specialized Ground Control may clear the drivetrain, but they are pricey and heavier than the Jugg, (120 TPI Jumbo may be a little lighter as compared to the 60 TPI Jugg but double the price.) See how the Knard works up front in the fluff. This is another worthy upgrade... https://www.facebook.com/wisecrackerltd/?fref=ts

  158. #958
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    Maiden voyage was awesome

    I'm smiling like a lunatic

    6 psi front and rear and Lou and bud are super impressive

    I did not think I would have sufficient gearing but we climbed a monster and I just went up

    So pumped!!

  159. #959
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    @kb1jki....you seem to have this bike dialed and I'll probably end up copying much of what you have done. Had I realized it would come with Kendas I probably would have just tried to ride it with those even though they are only 4". I expected Vee Missions, so I ordered replacements before the bike came in.

    Ended up with the whole afternoon to myself on Sat. Turned my expected 10-15 mile ride into just over 30. All relatively flat smooth railtrailbike, so very easy riding, but that's all I'm up for with my injuries. Bike was great. My pace was a 1-2 mph slower than what I would do on my regular mtb with skinnier tires, but to be fair that is also close to 10 lbs lighter as well. I was impressed. The ride was really smooth. In the few loose sections I encountered (woodchips) it floated right over which was pretty awesome. I ended up opening my calipers more than I prefer to compensate for the light dragging I was getting. Only real issue I had was a squeak from the front hub which started just past the midway mark on the ride. I'll repack the bearings this week and see what is going on. Perhaps they just weren't greased properly from the start.

    The trail I rode is quite popular. Runs through a gorge along a river and has some great scenery. As a result it pulls in a lot of traffic on the weekends, so I passed a lot of other bikers. I tend to say hi to everyone I pass, but felt like I was snubbed by a few of the local bike shop crew. Not sure if it was the fat tires, the Mongoose logo, or just my imagination, but I passed two crews of guys I believe we're from a Shop located right on the trail that were not interested in returning my hello. I really could give a $hit less, but thought it was interesting. The tires also got a lot of attention from people That were obviously unfamiliar with the whole fatbike trend. I can't yet pull the front end up with my bad shoulder so I feel like it's hard for me to get a true feel for the bike, but so far I am really liking it.


  160. #960
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    Sweet! Glad you're taking it easy. I don't know where you're from, but people don't look you in the eye, say hello, and are frightened of folks who do toward the city, more often than the "how dare you address me" attitude typical in more rural areas and somewhere in between in suburbia. The outgoing ones run up and ask about the tires though. The bike shop snub was either the "I'm too cool" representing or looking down their nose at the brand... Fact is both of you are riding! (at that moment he may have been sitting on a nut so when you see him in the shop, see if he greets you with a smile and recognition and if he's adjusted his shorts.) The Mongoose Dolomites lacked grease in bottom brackets, hubs, and headsets... I have not seen or heard of that on the Vinson models. Regardless, every bike should be checked for adjustment at the very least. I should o'haul my hubs too! as far as your stock tires, they're not bad. Facebook has a Fat Bike Trader page if you want to move them along or profit on the Knards you scored. I will say it's nice to have a spare on hand, and the 4" tires may be nice in summer months if you find you're not using the skinny bike so much as I discovered. My bike works for me as I set it up, but I never stop tinkering... I've only chilled on the bike for side projects. (I pulled studs from dead tires, but haven't ordered new tires because there's no ice yet. I'm sitting on everything from rip-stop nylon to waterproof zippers to build frame, seat, and bar packs -but have to reinvest in all the camping gear!) There is one project that will take precedence over 10s, studding tires... An Expedition Trailer! I have a heavily modified single wheel trailer, but when loaded becomes fatiguing. Fenders, locking panniers, 26" wheel... I even set up a pull bar and casters so I can drag it into the grocery store and use as a shopping cart, and when leaving I don't need paper or plastic! I intend to do the same with my next one but it will have two wheels, it will also work for pulling the bike over snow drifts when I've switched to snowshoes, function for trail grooming, function as an emergency shelter, and be amphibious! Because, I'm a dork! This is my single wheel...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails mongoose Vinson-529747_10200620903709819_1791279520_n-1-.jpg  

    mongoose Vinson-734677_10200473654788688_1652067986_n.jpg  


  161. #961
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    That thing is wild. Nice little piece of engineering! I have a trail a bike for the kids. I may put the hitch to it on the mongoose...haven't decided yet.

    @Bidner, Keep us posted on that setup. If any issues etc. I may end up going that route also.

  162. #962
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pkovo View Post
    That thing is wild. Nice little piece of engineering! I have a trail a bike for the kids. I may put the hitch to it on the mongoose...haven't decided yet.

    @Bidner, Keep us posted on that setup. If any issues etc. I may end up going that route also.
    Thanx. There was no way to lock the dry bag, so I got watertight plastic ammo boxes to secure things while running errands. When loaded with a weeks worth of groceries and added weight toward the rear, the trailer had a tendency to oscillate, could fight you in a turn, and the puny wheel would disappear in the slightest of potholes.
    I installed a larger gyroscope which damped oscillation, rolled over and through things much more smoothly, and by keeping the load at the original elevation yet considerably below the axle, the load effectively functioned as ballast. I quickly discovered that added weight of built up slush only compounded issues and full fenders were a no-brainer! it's also fairly visible. However, loading it over 100 lbs remained fatiguing across distances of 5-10 miles. This is among the reasons why I'll be constructing a two wheel trailer next time around!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails mongoose Vinson-295356_10200461114875198_875511988_n.jpg  


  163. #963
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    I'm looking to upgrade the drivetrain on my Vinson - my head is spinning with all the different sizes and types of bottom brackets - I know my Vinson comes with a square taper bottom bracket ( JIS ? ) - my question(s) is/are what is the stock bottom bracket width and what can it be replaced with ? - I think its a 100mm - what bottom bracket system / standard will work on the Vinson - I know I have to have a 190mm spindle for the 190mm rearend - I was looking at the RaceFace Next SL - the compatible bottom brackets are BB92, 68/73 BSA, 100mm BSA, PF30 - some help in clearing this up would be greatly appreciated - thanks

  164. #964
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    are you going to do another 3 piece crank, or upgrade to 2 piece crank? Are you thinking of doing a 2x9s/2x10s and upgrading shifters? with a 9s your max low gear would be 36T, with a 10s would be the same, but you can get a One-up kit with 40T or 42T cog and dump the granny gear... both cassettes will have an 11T cog that would make the big ring obsolete. Oneup Components 42-tooth Cog for Ten-Speed Cassettes - Reviewed - PinkbikeThe question is why are you fiddling with the drivetrain? Is you intent a lighter, stiffer crank with better bearings? Perhaps a larger gear range with higher and lower gears? Maybe the idea is to drop the granny so you can run fatter tires without the tire lugs grabbing the chain? or is it just because you want finer jumps between gears? (if you intend to install a 4.7" or larger rear tire, you will have to lose the granny gear and go 1x9/1x10... I don't think the freehub body will accept the 11s cassette.)The Vinson BB is 100 mm wide. there are 68mm, 73mm wide shells for conventional mountain bikes and 83mm wide shells for DH rigs too. I bet it doesn't matter but for an inner sleeve to keep the sealed bearings dry. I'm sure I tossed that sleeve and never thought about it. BB92 seems to be press fit, the Vinson bb is threaded (English) and require something like this: Race Face Next SL Fatbike Crank Arms for 190mm Rear Spacing in Tree Fort Bikes Crank Arm Sets (cat1336)for this crank Race Face Next SL Fatbike Crank Arms for 190mm Rear Spacing in Tree Fort Bikes Crank Arm Sets (cat1336) it costs as much as the Vinson and you still have to figure out if you're going to get a single direct mount ring or a spider to support two rings... (nice to have choices! particularly to directly mount a very small ring on the cranks.) The spindle on that crank is a 30 mm Dia, and the bb bearings should accept 30 mm spindle.I will say you could spend considerably less on a less modular system if you were comfortable running a 2x (or 1x by dropping the granny gear). However, because it does not have the direct mount feature, like the RaceFace crank, the smallest ring you could run would be 32T on a 104 mm BCD chain ring standard. I will say that this option works on my Vinson: FSA Comet Fat Bike 100mm - BB Standard (2015 graphic) - FSA FSA Comet MegaExo Fat Bike Crank 36/22t in Tree Fort Bikes Cranksets (cat1339). With this bb FSA MTB MegaExo - diameter 24 Pinch Bolt - FSA https://www.stage21bikes.com/fsa-bb-...gaexo-fatbike/ The spindle diameter on this crank is 24 mm, and so are the bb bearings... Both of these are of course 10s cranks and work with 10s chains and derailleurs. (I'm still running 8s so I shimmed behind the granny gears with 1 mm thick washers to keep the fatter chain from catching the big ring shift pins while in the granny gear and the high side of the cassette, but no thicker so the chain wouldn't drop between the chain rings...)

  165. #965
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    You are a Vinson Jedi master kb1kji!

    I rode the Vinson today through some rock gardens and some rather treacherous roots and with the narrow wide did not drop the chain. I'm remain rather stoked with the the entire Vinson setup.

  166. #966
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    Just a geek! They're great off the shelf especially for the price! Once I'm finished with the trailer build, I'll be mucking with the Vinson upgrades again...

  167. #967
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    Quote Originally Posted by KB1JKI View Post
    are you going to do another 3 piece crank, or upgrade to 2 piece crank? Are you thinking of doing a 2x9s/2x10s and upgrading shifters? with a 9s your max low gear would be 36T, with a 10s would be the same, but you can get a One-up kit with 40T or 42T cog and dump the granny gear... both cassettes will have an 11T cog that would make the big ring obsolete. Oneup Components 42-tooth Cog for Ten-Speed Cassettes - Reviewed - PinkbikeThe question is why are you fiddling with the drivetrain? Is you intent a lighter, stiffer crank with better bearings? Perhaps a larger gear range with higher and lower gears? Maybe the idea is to drop the granny so you can run fatter tires without the tire lugs grabbing the chain? or is it just because you want finer jumps between gears? (if you intend to install a 4.7" or larger rear tire, you will have to lose the granny gear and go 1x9/1x10... I don't think the freehub body will accept the 11s cassette.)The Vinson BB is 100 mm wide. there are 68mm, 73mm wide shells for conventional mountain bikes and 83mm wide shells for DH rigs too. I bet it doesn't matter but for an inner sleeve to keep the sealed bearings dry. I'm sure I tossed that sleeve and never thought about it. BB92 seems to be press fit, the Vinson bb is threaded (English) and require something like this: Race Face Next SL Fatbike Crank Arms for 190mm Rear Spacing in Tree Fort Bikes Crank Arm Sets (cat1336)for this crank Race Face Next SL Fatbike Crank Arms for 190mm Rear Spacing in Tree Fort Bikes Crank Arm Sets (cat1336) it costs as much as the Vinson and you still have to figure out if you're going to get a single direct mount ring or a spider to support two rings... (nice to have choices! particularly to directly mount a very small ring on the cranks.) The spindle on that crank is a 30 mm Dia, and the bb bearings should accept 30 mm spindle.I will say you could spend considerably less on a less modular system if you were comfortable running a 2x (or 1x by dropping the granny gear). However, because it does not have the direct mount feature, like the RaceFace crank, the smallest ring you could run would be 32T on a 104 mm BCD chain ring standard. I will say that this option works on my Vinson: FSA Comet Fat Bike 100mm - BB Standard (2015 graphic) - FSA FSA Comet MegaExo Fat Bike Crank 36/22t in Tree Fort Bikes Cranksets (cat1339). With this bb FSA MTB MegaExo - diameter 24 Pinch Bolt - FSA https://www.stage21bikes.com/fsa-bb-...gaexo-fatbike/ The spindle diameter on this crank is 24 mm, and so are the bb bearings... Both of these are of course 10s cranks and work with 10s chains and derailleurs. (I'm still running 8s so I shimmed behind the granny gears with 1 mm thick washers to keep the fatter chain from catching the big ring shift pins while in the granny gear and the high side of the cassette, but no thicker so the chain wouldn't drop between the chain rings...)
    Thanks - I'm looking for lighter & stronger & better bearings - I'm thinking 2x10 - I know the Race Face stuff is expensive - I guess I'm trying to build what a " Ultimate Vinson " is to me - I bought it mostly for the lighter frame with the idea of upgrading most components

  168. #968
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    How's this for an Ultimate Vinson?

    mongoose Vinson-pb250117.jpg

    mongoose Vinson-pb250120.jpg

    That sideways photo won't rotate. weird. anywho, heading out for wolves and Lynx this weekend

    But back on-task, I'm thinking of going down to a 1x9 or 1x10, and just switching out cranks for summer or winter.

    I use the 22T cog almost exclusively in winter, and a 32T could handle most all of my summer stuff.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails mongoose Vinson-pb250116.jpg  


  169. #969
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    I am going to ride my Vinson as it sits until things break and then I'll consider Future upgrades

    Things I would like include
    Brakes
    Better rear shifting that the x4 - but not a lot of 8 speed out there
    Headset

    But I'm psyched that my bike as it sits has less than 600 into it and that was the point for me

    The one up front cog is really impressive. I was not confident it would create s usable 1 x drivetrain but it does. The shifting is not perfect under heavy pedaling but such is life

  170. #970
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    the nice thing about the raceface is that you won't need another set of cranks if you find the need to go from 2x10 to 1x10! The frame is aluminum, likely not heat treated and will eventually need replacement. When that happens, your good parts just migrate. buy once, buy right and don't buy again! 2 piece cranks are lighter, stiffer, have a wider bearing stance, and beefier bearings outside the shell than inside the shell. The 10S 11-36 is plenty for a 2x10! You'll be limited to a 4.5", but the Kenda Jugg, or Spec comp are fine floaters! I'm looking forward to seeing how your build works out and how your parts selections perform together!

  171. #971
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anvil_X View Post
    How's this for an Ultimate Vinson?

    Click image for larger version. 

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    That sideways photo won't rotate. weird. anywho, heading out for wolves and Lynx this weekend

    But back on-task, I'm thinking of going down to a 1x9 or 1x10, and just switching out cranks for summer or winter.

    I use the 22T cog almost exclusively in winter, and a 32T could handle most all of my summer stuff.
    Funny, gotta wear orange, or at least not white! Apparently mountain bikers move in a similar way to white tail deer! The rig looks nice and visible, front fender to keep the muck out of your teeth and packs to keep your back dry! The firearm is safely mounted, sheathed to remain clean, and easy to draw! Pogies kinda freak me out... I suspect they're plenty warm, but if something sneaks up under the snow and cleans the rig out form under me, will I be able to put my hands out? Let's hope now one has to figure that out!

  172. #972
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    I'd just find a decent sealed bearing headset, FSA is good value. for mech brakes Avid BB-7 or them Tektro Spykes are the shit. For Hydros, I'm a dot 3 fluid person, people say mineral oil "works" in cold, but my brake pads dragged, and there was hesitation and even resistance on the lever. are you using the stock cassette for your 1x8? I'd say look into good condition 8s vintage parts, but used stuff can be sloppy and that's not good for indexing, and since you have SRAM shifter, it has a specific pull ratio and won't fly with older gear... 8s Sram compatible would be interesting. Poke around PAUL Components and see what sorts of offerings they have! With Shimano shifters, Tiagra or Claris long cage may work a bit better, but not enough to justify the investment. I'm using an old 9s XTR rear derailleur with older 8s thumb shifters with great success...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails mongoose Vinson-usedshima-1373861176-14651.jpg  


  173. #973
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    Nice - for some reason I'm being a " weight wieny" - I guess what hooked me on the Vinson was price to weight ratio / 190mm rear end / 3x8 - my vision is a (sub)30lb bike with high end components totaling in the $1500 to $2000 range
    what I have so far is
    2015 Mongose Vinson ( 2nd Gen ) with the 31.6 seatpost and Kenda Juggernauts
    90mm CF wheelset with 9zero7 hubs set up tubeless
    4.00 Schwalbe Jumbo Jim Evo Light Skin Pace Star
    Carver Bikes O'Beast Full Carbon Fat Bike Fork
    FSA Pig DH Pro headset
    CF zero offset seatpost
    CF saddle
    Mag/Ti pedals
    Easton Monkey Lite DH Carbon Handlebar
    40mm stem
    Avid BB7s with Speed Dial 7 levers
    Dork Disk / reflector delete
    CF seatpost clamp
    CF headset spacers

    My last thing is drivetrain - like I said I'm looking at Race Face Next SL and going 2x10

  174. #974
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    I am running a shimano mega range cassette to get a 34 cog
    With little exception it is proven to be enough range
    I've taken bikes well past reasonable with regards to upgrading in the past so I am trying to exercise some restraint here. Fsa is a good tip! Thanks

    That is some serious weight weenie territory indeed

    I think it's really cool how these bikes become one offs so quickly

  175. #975
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    I'm trying to accomplish my goals while exercising restraint as well - I'm patient - I cruse classifieds and ebay - I buy everything good used / on sale - as cheap as I can - I just quickly added it up after I posted my build so far - with $475 for the Vinson and around $1000 in upgrades I'm right around the $1500 range - I should be able to pick up a Race Face Next SL set or put one together from parts and convert to 2x10 for around $500 or less - that should put me in the $2000 range total - then start selling off the stuff I replaced like the Kenda Juggernauts - they really aren't that bad on weight - 4.00 wire bead 60tpi and they weigh 1350g

  176. #976
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    No offense intended on the weight weenie comment
    If I did not have 2 other fat bikes in the quiver i would be right there with you

    I think it's awesome that you took a basic frame and did it to the nines! I'll have to go back and look for a picture of it through this thread.

  177. #977
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    Quote Originally Posted by blidner View Post
    No offense intended on the weight weenie comment
    If I did not have 2 other fat bikes in the quiver i would be right there with you

    I think it's awesome that you took a basic frame and did it to the nines! I'll have to go back and look for a picture of it through this thread.
    none taken - no pics yet - its all stock with a growing pile of parts - I just paid for the fork , tires and headset yesterday - shipped / on the way

  178. #978
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    Quote Originally Posted by KB1JKI View Post
    Funny, gotta wear orange, or at least not white! Apparently mountain bikers move in a similar way to white tail deer! The rig looks nice and visible, front fender to keep the muck out of your teeth and packs to keep your back dry! The firearm is safely mounted, sheathed to remain clean, and easy to draw! Pogies kinda freak me out... I suspect they're plenty warm, but if something sneaks up under the snow and cleans the rig out form under me, will I be able to put my hands out? Let's hope now one has to figure that out!
    don't have to worry about that orange thing where I hunt in AK. a bit hard to explain, but imagine being somewhere where there is basically zero chance of encountering another human being. Think Jack London.

    Which reminds me, I really need to get a personal rescue beacon.

    besides, the black stands out to the extreme in this landscape, more so than orange. We also don't have the cute little dogs you lower-48ers call deer, and most of the people I *might* run into are on snowmachines, which means that they can't get to where I am going in the first place (I use iced-in rivers down in steep gorges as highways, so basically the absolute worst place to bring a snowmachine this time of year)

    In all of the times I have gone hunting out there, I have found human sign off of the road once. he killed a couple of ptarmigan about 300 yards from my truck, then left. People tend to stay for only a little while when they're in that area. the temperature usually scares them off(-30 to -40 F), unless they're riding a snowmachine. then they'll screw around for a few hours on the plateau and take off when they realize that there is a sick snowmachine trail to the north side of the highway and head there.

    Besides, my prey can see blaze orange.

    The pogies are made by a lady up in trapper creek, and they're freakin awesome for hunting/singletrack up here. I had a similar worry, but I tried it out, and sure enough no problems with getting my hands stuck in the pogies when things go ploin-shaped. they're basically just to keep the wind off of my hands, and it's just like riding with no pogies at all.

  179. #979
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    Would $545 shipped be a good deal?
    Torn between the Vinson and a Monster Bullseye.

  180. #980
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    The deals change so fast at sports authority

    I don't think that's the best price you will see but it's a steal at that price regardless

  181. #981
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    Quote Originally Posted by RUBZERK View Post
    Would $545 shipped be a good deal?
    Torn between the Vinson and a Monster Bullseye.
    dude, join the sports authority club. I forget what they call it, but it got me a huge discount on that bike

  182. #982
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    oh, now I remember how I got the discount....

    they emailed me a members only sale. I guess you can keep an eye out for that.

  183. #983
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    FYI everyone,

    When you fall through the ice on a river, and you are in a mad dash to get back to your truck before you get frostbite, your brakes will be frozen open and no longer work.

    my weekend was interesting, and once more I am reminded I need to get a Personal rescue beacon.

  184. #984
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    Glad to hear you are ok

    That's some scary stuff

  185. #985
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    The gravity that I have seen are equivalent, I will say that the difference in price is worth spending more on which ever doesn't have Vee Rubber Mission tires. They are junk in snow and death commuting on snow. The Gravity also have steel forks some with water bottle mounts which is very nice. There also appears to be a second set of water bottle bolts on the seat tube. I like the fact that they already come with a bash guard and drop the large ring. I put an 11-34T 8s cassette as I built the vinson up new. I'd recommend that you do it with the gravity also and you won't miss that big ring! The gravity is a solid purchase, and you have choice of color! the steel forks are smarter, and the fork water bottle mounts are nice. most importantly you can get that bike in different sizes. If you have a 6'6" or 5'1" body, that is relevant.

  186. #986
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    Vinson on sale today at S A.
    Use SUNDAY25 for extra 25% off.
    Free shipping.
    Mongoose Vinson All-Terrain Fat Bike

    Scored one for $306.00 shipped!

  187. #987
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    Damn! That's an insane price

    I was going to post this as a cool upgrade and with that savings that's an even better deal

    Hoboy 465mm Carbon Fat Bike Fork (Quick Release) | Sarma - siberian born fat bikes

  188. #988
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    Quote Originally Posted by fagro View Post
    Vinson on sale today at S A.
    Use SUNDAY25 for extra 25% off.
    Free shipping.
    Mongoose Vinson All-Terrain Fat Bike

    Scored one for $306.00 shipped!
    Thanks for the tip. I have been telling people about the Vinson for some time, and this was enough to motivate an old riding buddy to pick one up.

  189. #989
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    Quote Originally Posted by knl2stl View Post
    Thanks for the tip. I have been telling people about the Vinson for some time, and this was enough to motivate an old riding buddy to pick one up.
    I bought one, probably should have bought 2. I wanted to check them out as I haven't seen one in person.
    Already have a Spec. Fatboy.
    At this price I'll take a chance.

  190. #990
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    I tested one out last year but did not get one. (I have a Norco Bigfoot 6.3.) When I first looked at the Vinson it was on sale for 500, and I thought it was easily worth that. I live off the bike path pretty near the Mongoose (Pacific Cycle) HQ and I see them all over the place.

  191. #991
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    knl2stl was right

    Quote Originally Posted by knl2stl View Post
    Thanks for the tip. I have been telling people about the Vinson for some time, and this was enough to motivate an old riding buddy to pick one up.
    I sure did. $300.34 shipped, and I already received the shipping confirmation.

  192. #992
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    Quote Originally Posted by knl2stl View Post
    I tested one out last year but did not get one. (I have a Norco Bigfoot 6.3.) When I first looked at the Vinson it was on sale for 500, and I thought it was easily worth that. I live off the bike path pretty near the Mongoose (Pacific Cycle) HQ and I see them all over the place.
    Didn't "need" one, but figured I would use as a commuter/non-trail bike. This will offset the $300.00 it would cost to replace my GC 4.6 tires on my Fatboy.

  193. #993
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    Ordered mine early this morning, can't pass it up for $300.

  194. #994
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    $306 is an absolute steal! Asked Santa this morning hope he comes through

    SA lists the spec tires as Vee missions, can anybody confirm these are now the commands? or is it luck of the draw?

  195. #995
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    Just got back from a quick 60 minute ride

    This bike is an absolute blast. I won't go so far as to say that it rides as good as the foes but it leaves an equally huge smile on my face

    I'm tossing on a pair on db5 brakes I got pre owned from pinkbike which will hopefully offer a little more stopping power

  196. #996
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    ok. i pulled the plug as well. $301.77 shipped.

    does anyone know if the Avid DB1 fit this bike ?

  197. #997
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    Quote Originally Posted by blidner View Post
    Glad to hear you are ok

    That's some scary stuff
    My Baffin boots were the saving grace. they filled with water, but as soon as I started moving again, the suckers just trapped all the heat inside. by the time I got to the truck, my feet were basically in a 98 degree bootwater stew.

    Another good gear idea: whenever I go out during the winter, I wear a full body wool suit. wool stays warm even when wet. In a bad spot, I'd rather have my wool kit than a rain kit.

    Anywho, glad my gear made up for my silliness. it's just not cold enough yet in the copper river region to trust the river ice yet. it was still in positive digits yesterday, and in order to use the rivers as highways to get to my hunting spots, I'll likely have to wait until jan or feb. gotta let a good month of -30s work their magic.

    Quote Originally Posted by KB1JKI View Post
    The gravity that I have seen are equivalent, I will say that the difference in price is worth spending more on which ever doesn't have Vee Rubber Mission tires. They are junk in snow and death commuting on snow. The Gravity also have steel forks some with water bottle mounts which is very nice. There also appears to be a second set of water bottle bolts on the seat tube. I like the fact that they already come with a bash guard and drop the large ring. I put an 11-34T 8s cassette as I built the vinson up new. I'd recommend that you do it with the gravity also and you won't miss that big ring! The gravity is a solid purchase, and you have choice of color! the steel forks are smarter, and the fork water bottle mounts are nice. most importantly you can get that bike in different sizes. If you have a 6'6" or 5'1" body, that is relevant.
    Your assessment of the Vee mission tires is Spot on. the missions are great in the summer when you want to zip around, but in low geears and any amount of snow I have had problems with traction until I deflated them to pretty much flat.

  198. #998
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    Came here to post about this deal. It's a steal at $285.

    Ordered one for my older son.

  199. #999
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bduck View Post
    $306 is an absolute steal! Asked Santa this morning hope he comes through

    SA lists the spec tires as Vee missions, can anybody confirm these are now the commands? or is it luck of the draw?
    I bought one a few weeks ago and it came with 4" Kenda Juggernauts. I was pleasantly surprised. Perhaps you'll get those as well.

    At this price this bike is such a deal!

  200. #1000
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    I was also lucky to get mine at $285 (shipped to NH, no sales tax). There's now an even better coupon for 30% off (available until 6am) that I almost waited for, but now the Vinson is no longer showing up on SA's website.

    Super excited to get into the fat bike game! As someone who is 5' 7", should I be looking for the shortest possible stem for this bike? Something like this 40mm stem?

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