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  1. #601
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    after installing the CC/Salsa +3mm base plate. my Farley 5 17.5 barely clear the knobs with about 0.2mm a piece of printer paper would get stuck in there.
    External cup headset to fit an IS 52:

    1.0 Degree ZS44-EC52 - To Suit Tapered Steerer Tube

  2. #602
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    External cup headset to fit an IS 52:

    1.0 Degree ZS44-EC52 - To Suit Tapered Steerer Tube
    Pretty sure that is a offset headset....which means you have to use the matching upper headset, which is a 44
    I beleive the Trek is a 41

  3. #603
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    after installing the CC/Salsa +3mm base plate. my Farley 5 17.5 barely clear the knobs with about 0.2mm a piece of printer paper would get stuck in there.
    I wonder how the Comp model fits....seeing that is what Trek is using for 18 on the 7
    Same on the carbon EX....the Pro hits the frame like yours....yet the 18 model is specced with a Comp.
    Last edited by the mayor; 08-15-2017 at 02:59 PM.

  4. #604
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    after installing the CC/Salsa +3mm base plate. my Farley 5 17.5 barely clear the knobs with about 0.2mm a piece of printer paper would get stuck in there.
    Make a 2mm thick washer and fit it under the base plate. Should be enough depth in the 40mm seat on the steerer for that.
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  5. #605
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    I think ill just call my farley " bareley". it barely clears the xxL tire in the rear.

    i really wish manitou made the knobs a bit lower profile.
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  6. #606
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    Except manitou doesnt make fat tires

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  7. #607
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    I think ill just call my farley " bareley". it barely clears the xxL tire in the rear.

    i really wish manitou made the knobs a bit lower profile.
    The Farley was never designed with 2XL tires in mind....but pretty sure the Gnarwhal 27.5 x 4.5 fits?(which ends up with about the same footprint)
    The Mastodon Pro compression knobs makes me scratch my head....seeing Trek was the company that first said they were going with this fork...but there is fitment issue on a few models.

  8. #608
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    My 8 month old Bluto needs air spring service and the RCT3 lockout keeps flaking out on me. In addition the MRP bottom out adjuster valve although useful, doesn't really make the fork feel any better. I am rather disappointed in it needing service so quickly.

    I am thinking of buying a Mastodon Std 120 for my wozo. I may try 130 or 140mm travel to make the bike handle aggressive trails better. Do you think the mastodon will hold up better? Will the performance improvement over the bluto be worth the change? Are there service kits available? Do I have to purchase M prep, or is sram butter compatible?

    Which online sellers do you recommend? Im in Canada.

  9. #609
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    Late to the party here, but I can say the Fox 34 140 Boost Plus has plenty of clearance for a VanHelga 4.0 on Marge Lite. I have crammed a 4.6 Flowbeist in that fork with enough clearance to have fun and no problems. The Fox is a great fork, and a fair bit lighter than the Mastodon.. Becomes a popsicle below about 10 F, interested to hear how the Mastodon does in super cold temps.

    I am definitely eyeballing a Mastodon Pro Ext 120 for a Wozo. Wondering if the crown thingies will clear the downtube (?)

  10. #610
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    nurseben is using a mastodon pro ext 120 on a large wozo no problem.

    Quote Originally Posted by PCT View Post
    L

    I am definitely eyeballing a Mastodon Pro Ext 120 for a Wozo. Wondering if the crown thingies will clear the downtube (?)

  11. #611
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    I think ill just call my farley " bareley". it barely clears the xxL tire in the rear.

    i really wish manitou made the knobs a bit lower profile.
    Manitou shares the knobs with the other 34mm forks. Makes you wonder if there was no industry agreement for fat-fork frame clearance? I guess there will be now!
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  12. #612
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    Quote Originally Posted by PCT View Post
    Late to the party here, but I can say the Fox 34 140 Boost Plus has plenty of clearance for a VanHelga 4.0 on Marge Lite. I have crammed a 4.6 Flowbeist in that fork with enough clearance to have fun and no problems. The Fox is a great fork, and a fair bit lighter than the Mastodon.. Becomes a popsicle below about 10 F, interested to hear how the Mastodon does in super cold temps.

    I am definitely eyeballing a Mastodon Pro Ext 120 for a Wozo. Wondering if the crown thingies will clear the downtube (?)
    Have you checked tyre to crown clearance at full compression?

    Fitting under the brace is not enough.
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  13. #613
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    I honestly wouldnt worry about down tube clearance. worst case you can always shave down the knobs. i didnt choose to go that route because i wanna keep it neat for resale value. and i would like original look on the whole fork as well.
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  14. #614
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    I honestly wouldnt worry about down tube clearance. worst case you can always shave down the knobs. i didnt choose to go that route because i wanna keep it neat for resale value. and i would like original look on the whole fork as well.
    Just take the knobs off!
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  15. #615
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    Have you checked tyre to crown clearance at full compression?

    Fitting under the brace is not enough.
    There's plenty of clearance in the Fox 34s....it will fit 29+

  16. #616
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    120 Pro changed to 150 yesterday. Test ride tomorrow. Oil levels were spot on.

  17. #617
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    I think ill just call my farley " bareley". it barely clears the xxL tire in the rear.

    i really wish manitou made the knobs a bit lower profile.
    akacoke....looks like the 2018 Farley 7 is coming with a rubber bumper on the frame for the compression knob
    Last edited by the mayor; 08-15-2017 at 02:01 PM.

  18. #618
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    Quote Originally Posted by kntr View Post
    120 Pro changed to 150 yesterday. Test ride tomorrow. Oil levels were spot on.
    do a write up pls
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  19. #619
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    akacoke....looks like the 2018 Farley 5 is coming with a rubber bumper on the frame for the compression knob
    where do you guys find info on the new farleys. i cant find it for 2018
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  20. #620
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    Yep, depressurized the fork and everything looked good.
    Been running the Fox with Flowbeist 4.6 no problems. Not a lot of mud clearance though...
    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    Have you checked tyre to crown clearance at full compression?

    Fitting under the brace is not enough.

  21. #621
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    There's plenty of clearance in the Fox 34s....it will fit 29+
    It's always worth asking. I've seen some scary setups on these forums!
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  22. #622
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    The Wozo + Mastodon has a bigly amount of room.

    So about the Wozo, rear chainstay width maxes out at a Minion 4.8 on LM 65mm, 29+ fits fine diameter wise, but for mud room you need to move the drops back 5mm.

    I would not do an EXT unless you plan to run a 27.5 x 4.5, which may not even fit the frame ...

    You may or may not need EXT for 29+, it depends on the tire. Minions are probably fine to a 3", but Knards will be tight.

    If you run an STD, a 130mm or even a 140mm is rideable. If you get the EXT, 120mm is gonna be the most you'll want to run unless you are a huge fan of choppers.

    No idea on cold weather, the Mastodon is yet untested in extremes. It's a suspension fork, it'll probably be real similar to a Bluto, odds are...

    To gspotrider: There is no comparison between a Bluto and a Mastodon. Blutos are Rebas in a thin disguise, old tech, wimpy stanchions, and they ride like doo doo. The Mastodon is burly, current tech, rides great.

    Quote Originally Posted by PCT View Post
    Late to the party here, but I can say the Fox 34 140 Boost Plus has plenty of clearance for a VanHelga 4.0 on Marge Lite. I have crammed a 4.6 Flowbeist in that fork with enough clearance to have fun and no problems. The Fox is a great fork, and a fair bit lighter than the Mastodon.. Becomes a popsicle below about 10 F, interested to hear how the Mastodon does in super cold temps.

    I am definitely eyeballing a Mastodon Pro Ext 120 for a Wozo. Wondering if the crown thingies will clear the downtube (?)

  23. #623
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    where do you guys find info on the new farleys. i cant find it for 2018
    They are hitting dealers now....and any dealer can get you info off their ordering systems

  24. #624
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    Scanned the thread but still wondering if a Bud 4.8 on 65-80mm rim will fit in the Mastodon Standard(?) Or Minion 29x3.0? Sorry to ask. I would prefer to run the Standard with its lower a-c. Thanks!

  25. #625
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    Has anyone fitted a Mastidon to a 17 Specialized fatboy? Any fitment issues? Thinking of a E 100

  26. #626
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    Quote Originally Posted by PCT View Post
    Scanned the thread but still wondering if a Bud 4.8 on 65-80mm rim will fit in the Mastodon Standard(?) Or Minion 29x3.0? Sorry to ask. I would prefer to run the Standard with its lower a-c. Thanks!
    Measure the tyre OD when fitted.

    You can add 10mm spacers to the standard to increase bottom-out clearance. It reduces travel by the same amount.
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  27. #627
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    So I got a ride in on the 150. I've been on the 120 for a few months. I really couldn't tell a huge difference in climbing, but wow huge difference on the DH. I will have to mess with the psi as it seems like I need to run way less. I use to run 55psi in the 120. I ran 50psi today in the 150 and I wasn't using very much travel. I'm going to have to mess with the air pressures.

    Does it make sense that I should run less air in the 150?

  28. #628
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    Blaster,Not a 2017, but my LBs found out the chisel fork has a "built in" angled bottom race. They ordered a cane creek race. I'll know today if it is the correct one....

  29. #629
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    Quote Originally Posted by kntr View Post
    So I got a ride in on the 150. I've been on the 120 for a few months. I really couldn't tell a huge difference in climbing, but wow huge difference on the DH. I will have to mess with the psi as it seems like I need to run way less. I use to run 55psi in the 120. I ran 50psi today in the 150 and I wasn't using very much travel. I'm going to have to mess with the air pressures.

    Does it make sense that I should run less air in the 150?
    Yes....because of the added volume. You might want to experiment with the IVA too

  30. #630
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    Mastodon is much wider than the Bluto. So much so that the tire hooks on my Kuat NV bike rack won't fit.

  31. #631
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    Get a 1Up, fits fine

    Quote Originally Posted by Fat-Tire View Post
    Mastodon is much wider than the Bluto. So much so that the tire hooks on my Kuat NV bike rack won't fit.

  32. #632
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    Yes....because of the added volume. You might want to experiment with the IVA too
    What settings do you recommend for a 180 lb rider?

  33. #633
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    Quote Originally Posted by FireinMTB View Post
    Thanks man. Found 'em on BTI. Gonna order one as soon as it's in stock. Thanks again.

    I'm thinking about the standard version, in 120mm on my beargrease. It might be a bit overkill, but I like the idea of being able to go 27.5x3 with the 120mm travel and keep a decent BB height.
    Hey, did you end up putting the 120mm Mastadon on your beargrease? Is your frame carbon? I want to do the same but salsa voids their warranty if you go bigger than 100mm on the fork. Looking for any feedback on your experience.

    Anyone else in ear shot of this with a carbon beargrease, chime in as well.

    Thanks, Wil

  34. #634
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    Quote Originally Posted by kntr View Post
    What settings do you recommend for a 180 lb rider?
    I don't weigh 180....nor do I have a 150 fork....nor do I ride like you on the trails you ride.
    But if you're not getting much travel at 50psi....go down to 45 and go from there.
    Same with the IVA...once you get a base psi level, it takes 5 minutes to change the spacers.

  35. #635
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    Nurse Ben- How much are you looking to get for the fork? Can the travel be adjusted downward at all? Sacrilege, I know... but the manufacturer says max travel is 100mm or warranty goes kabloey.

  36. #636
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    Quote Originally Posted by goose8 View Post
    Nurse Ben- How much are you looking to get for the fork? Can the travel be adjusted downward at all? Sacrilege, I know... but the manufacturer says max travel is 100mm or warranty goes kabloey.
    Well, it's nearly new, I'm not in a hurry, was hoping to change it over to an STD but no parts so far, might just keep it and wait.

    Sounds like you need a short travel version anyhow. Honestly, I've never had a bike that couldn't take 120mm, so you may want to go up travel vs down; short travel forks won't have as much value down the road.

  37. #637
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    Ah, I see. That makes a lot of sense, thanks for the advice! Good luck selling it when the times comes.

  38. #638
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    FWIW,

    I have a Farley 5 and 7 both 2016's. I stopped into my LBS yesterday and they have the new 2018 7, in red. The bike is very nice but holy cow it weighs over 35 lbs. It is very front heavy as I would expect but more than I expected. The fork itself had fantastic action. The fork did graze the frame hence the rubber frame protector on the Trek which won't mean a thing if its a hard fall. Someone needs to design a bike around the fork if this will become a standard. I would not put it on my Farley's. Gonna stay rigid on the 5 and remain under 30lbs with Surly Nates, for now.

    To be fair the proof will be when I ride it, a riding friend purchased the bike.

  39. #639
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    Quote Originally Posted by on58960 View Post
    FWIW,

    I have a Farley 5 and 7 both 2016's. I stopped into my LBS yesterday and they have the new 2018 7, in red. The bike is very nice but holy cow it weighs over 35 lbs. It is very front heavy as I would expect but more than I expected. The fork itself had fantastic action. The fork did graze the frame hence the rubber frame protector on the Trek which won't mean a thing if its a hard fall. Someone needs to design a bike around the fork if this will become a standard. I would not put it on my Farley's. Gonna stay rigid on the 5 and remain under 30lbs with Surly Nates, for now.

    To be fair the proof will be when I ride it, a riding friend purchased the bike.
    There were clearance problems for the Bluto early, most frames fit fine, same with the Mastodon. The Wozo fits the Mastodon with miles to spare.

  40. #640
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    Small Wozo frame has clearance issue with knob. A light grind of the black knob could prevent a bent adjuster shaft.

    Should i leave it? Should I grind it?

    Other Questions:
    Mine gets 110mm travel. Is the new bottom out bumper available from Manitou?
    Is it easy to install?

    What are you guys preferring: slow rebound to handle drops, jumps and chunky stuff or fast rebound to get it active for high speed runs?

    Untitled by avyoung, on Flickr

  41. #641
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    Quote Originally Posted by GspotRider View Post
    Small Wozo frame has clearance issue with knob. A light grind of the black knob could prevent a bent adjuster shaft.

    Should i leave it? Should I grind it?

    Other Questions:
    Mine gets 110mm travel. Is the new bottom out bumper available from Manitou?
    Is it easy to install?

    What are you guys preferring: slow rebound to handle drops, jumps and chunky stuff or fast rebound to get it active for high speed runs?
    A little grind job might save you aggravation later.
    They get 110 travel. I called Manitou and they said I'd have to send it in...which ain't happening.
    Give them a call....you might get someone different and let us know what they tell you.

  42. #642
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    Quote Originally Posted by GspotRider View Post
    Small Wozo frame has clearance issue with knob. A light grind of the black knob could prevent a bent adjuster shaft.

    Should i leave it? Should I grind it?

    Other Questions:
    Mine gets 110mm travel. Is the new bottom out bumper available from Manitou?
    Is it easy to install?

    What are you guys preferring: slow rebound to handle drops, jumps and chunky stuff or fast rebound to get it active for high speed runs?

    Untitled by avyoung, on Flickr
    Okay, well the bigger frames fit fine

    Order the thicker race and you'll be fine.

    Manitou sent me the bumper revision kit, comes with tool, grease, oil, etc...

  43. #643
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    I like the thicker race suggestion. Thx!
    Did you call Manitou or will email to Manitou get the job done to get the updated bottom out kit?

    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Okay, well the bigger frames fit fine

    Order the thicker race and you'll be fine.

    Manitou sent me the bumper revision kit, comes with tool, grease, oil, etc...

  44. #644
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    Quote Originally Posted by GspotRider View Post
    I like the thicker race suggestion. Thx!
    Did you call Manitou or will email to Manitou get the job done to get the updated bottom out kit?
    Email, super easy, very nice kit.

  45. #645
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    Got my STD extended to 150mm, not too hard if you've had a fork apart, but you need two special tools: skinny wall socket and a modified cassette tool.

    I got the socket from Manitou as part of the bushing "fix". I made the cassette tool from a Park cassette socket, broke out the pin and drilled the pin hole to 3/8".

    I did some measuring and it looks like the tallest tire that fits an STD safely at full travel is a Minion 4.8 on a 65 mm rim. In this configuration I have ~5mm to spare. Tire is about 29" in diameter.

    29+ is far taller than a Minion 4.8, so all you 29+ fans will need the EXT for long travel applications; not that you didn't already know this... and of course you can travel limit an STD for clearance but that limits travel.

    I'm interested in trading my120mm Pro EXT if anyone is interested; I'm not gonna run 29+ any more.

    Manitou did a good job on this fork.

  46. #646
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    I'm not gonna run 29+ any more.

    Only going to ride slow henceforth, eh?

  47. #647
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee View Post
    Only going to ride slow henceforth, eh?
    I'm old, I can't ride fast

    So Mike, did you open up the fork and adjust travel? It's a really simple system, cheap to change, just add oil.

  48. #648
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    Gspotrider, I have a salsa/cane creek 3mm crown race (thicker for clearance) if u need it.

  49. #649
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    Manitou Mastodon?-kimg0033.jpg

  50. #650
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Got my STD extended to 150mm, not too hard if you've had a fork apart, but you need two special tools: skinny wall socket and a modified cassette tool.

    I got the socket from Manitou as part of the bushing "fix". I made the cassette tool from a Park cassette socket, broke out the pin and drilled the pin hole to 3/8".

    I did some measuring and it looks like the tallest tire that fits an STD safely at full travel is a Minion 4.8 on a 65 mm rim. In this configuration I have ~5mm to spare. Tire is about 29" in diameter.

    29+ is far taller than a Minion 4.8, so all you 29+ fans will need the EXT for long travel applications; not that you didn't already know this... and of course you can travel limit an STD for clearance but that limits travel.

    I'm interested in trading my120mm Pro EXT if anyone is interested; I'm not gonna run 29+ any more.

    Manitou did a good job on this fork.
    Just to be sure, which model should I buy? I see I need to get a a Pro model in min 120mm travel to get 150mm? I am sorry but I have not read these thread and the answer is here....The reason you want to trade your 120mm Pro Nurse Bend is that it is a bit longer and rises the front of the bike? I can be interested in bying your 120mm PRO EXT if you will ship it to Norway and if we can agree about the price. Please PM me.

  51. #651
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Nice shitstomper!

    Awfully sweet of your wife to loan you her saddle like that...

  52. #652
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    Now wait one second...how do you know she loaned it to me

    Hey Mike, do you have an internal lower headset cup? I'm running a -1 deg angleset, might not need it, so dropping the stack would be worthwhile.

    CC Coil IL feels so smooth, I can believe it's Charmin

    ... and since this is the Mastodon thread... the Mastodon at 150mm is easilly as stiff and flex free as a Pike. Killer fork!!

    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee View Post
    Nice shitstomper!

    Awfully sweet of your wife to loan you her saddle like that...

  53. #653
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    What air pressures are you guys running in the STD 150? I'm down to 35-40 psi and still cant get full travel.

  54. #654
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    Quote Originally Posted by kntr View Post
    What air pressures are you guys running in the STD 150? I'm down to 35-40 psi and still cant get full travel.
    Did you remove the spacers on the rebound and compression legs?

    If you just remove the compression side, you get the full extension but not the full travel.

    40-50psi, still playing with volume spacers.

    Also learning about coil shocks. So far I love it, silky smooth, like riding on a down pillow.

  55. #655
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    Thank you for the great support here guys!
    What kind of BB height is there on the Lenz bike? It seems to be really high compared to normal standards?

  56. #656
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Did you remove the spacers on the rebound and compression legs?

    If you just remove the compression side, you get the full extension but not the full travel.

    40-50psi, still playing with volume spacers.

    Also learning about coil shocks. So far I love it, silky smooth, like riding on a down pillow.
    I had the shop do it.

    If I let all the air out it compresses 5" and the seals come within a 1/4" of hitting.

    I'm 185 and I'm running about 40psi. It feels awesome but after a ride Ive only used about 3" of travel and I ride some pretty rough trails. Ill try 35 psi today. Maybe something is wrong with my gauge.

    Are you sure there are spacers in both legs?

  57. #657
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    What kind of BB height is there on the Lenz bike? It seems to be really high compared to normal standards?

    It is normal for locations that have large quantities of ledges, roots, and rocks to negotiate.

    It is high only when compared to the current trend of smacking your cranks, pedals, and feet on every one of the aforementioned ledges, roots, and rocks.

    Every time I demo a bike with a "modern" BB height I get frustrated, quickly, by how often my cranks, pedals, and feet come into contact with earth. And that bike's owner, now riding my Fatillac, marvels that they can pedal up a hill so effortlessly, without smacking feet every few pedal strokes.

    Some trends make good, solid sense: Slacker HTA's, shorter CS's, wider bars, shorter stems, fatter tires at lower pressures. Low BB's have not been similarly positive.

  58. #658
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    Quote Originally Posted by kntr View Post
    If I let all the air out it compresses 5" and the seals come within a 1/4" of hitting.

    Then you have a 5" travel fork.

  59. #659
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee View Post
    It is normal for locations that have large quantities of ledges, roots, and rocks to negotiate.

    It is high only when compared to the current trend of smacking your cranks, pedals, and feet on every one of the aforementioned ledges, roots, and rocks.

    Every time I demo a bike with a "modern" BB height I get frustrated, quickly, by how often my cranks, pedals, and feet come into contact with earth. And that bike's owner, now riding my Fatillac, marvels that they can pedal up a hill so effortlessly, without smacking feet every few pedal strokes.

    Some trends make good, solid sense: Slacker HTA's, shorter CS's, wider bars, shorter stems, fatter tires at lower pressures. Low BB's have not been similarly positive.
    I gotta agree with this. I hit mine way more on my current bike. Consensus from everyone was "pedal better"

  60. #660
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    Quote Originally Posted by blowery View Post
    I gotta agree with this. I hit mine way more on my current bike. Consensus from everyone was "pedal better"

    I hear that too -- at the trailhead, in the bar, and online. And then, when we're out *riding* said techy trails, it's conspicuously silent except for groans of frustration and the sounds of pedals, cranks, and feet smacking rocks. And then the sounds of frustrated riders pushing their bikes up a difficult but utterly rideable trail.

    And we haven't even mentioned the consequences of adding speed and gravity to the equation.

  61. #661
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee View Post
    I hear that too -- at the trailhead, in the bar, and online. And then, when we're out *riding* said techy trails, it's conspicuously silent except for groans of frustration and the sounds of pedals, cranks, and feet smacking rocks. And then the sounds of frustrated riders pushing their bikes up a difficult but utterly rideable trail.

    And we haven't even mentioned the consequences of adding speed and gravity to the equation.
    Yeah I spend A WHOLE LOT more time thinking about rocks (Colorado riding) that it messes me up way more.

    Of course now I'm looking at a FS bike, HT is getting rough on me so maybe I"ll get a chance to make sure the BB height is better.

  62. #662
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    Big Edit: I was wrong!

    So I was having the same problem as Kntr, 150mm extension but I wasn't getting the full 150mm travel no matter how low I ran the pressure.

    Admittedly I am better at some things than others, so I figured I'd made a mistake; after rereading the manual I was sure the problem was the spacers I left inside the damper leg... except there are no spacers in the damper leg.

    However, I was still having a travel issue on the damper side; the rod would not fully compress, but after pulling the damper rod; upper ABS damper installed, I suddenly had full damper rod travel. Honestly, I have no idea how or why it was stuck; air?

    Anywho, now it's working fine, 150mm of plush Manitou travel, like riding on a giant pogo stick

    Below still counts:

    => The Manitou fork is unique in that you can "place" the fork in a shorter position when releasing the pump and it will stay in that position.

    Try attaching the pump, then forcefully pull the fork legs out, see if you can get the 6" of travel that you should have. If this works, then add your normal amount of pressure and release the pump before allowing the fork to compress.

    Quote Originally Posted by kntr View Post
    I had the shop do it.

    If I let all the air out it compresses 5" and the seals come within a 1/4" of hitting.

    I'm 185 and I'm running about 40psi. It feels awesome but after a ride Ive only used about 3" of travel and I ride some pretty rough trails. Ill try 35 psi today. Maybe something is wrong with my gauge.

    Are you sure there are spacers in both legs?
    Last edited by Nurse Ben; 08-25-2017 at 07:24 PM.

  63. #663
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    Agreed, pedal strikes have worsened with the new bike geos in recent years, influenced by folks who ride groomer flow trails and park; and it's not something that makes me smile!

    I bought the Lenz Fatillac specifically because the BB is higher, as well I ordered 165mm cranks just so I can stop hitting my pedals on rocks. Fat bikes have enough problems with pedal strikes due to being extra wide, we don't need to be low and wide.

    You shouldn't have to run taller wheels to have a bike that is trail friendly.

    Edit: Hey Mike, you gotta try a Cane Creek IL, it is so dang smooth and comfy, it brings dampness to a whole new level.

    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee View Post
    It is normal for locations that have large quantities of ledges, roots, and rocks to negotiate.

    It is high only when compared to the current trend of smacking your cranks, pedals, and feet on every one of the aforementioned ledges, roots, and rocks.

    Every time I demo a bike with a "modern" BB height I get frustrated, quickly, by how often my cranks, pedals, and feet come into contact with earth. And that bike's owner, now riding my Fatillac, marvels that they can pedal up a hill so effortlessly, without smacking feet every few pedal strokes.

    Some trends make good, solid sense: Slacker HTA's, shorter CS's, wider bars, shorter stems, fatter tires at lower pressures. Low BB's have not been similarly positive.

  64. #664
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    Will the pro ext in 150mm be to long for the Foes Mutz?

  65. #665
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    Will the pro ext in 150mm be to long for the Foes Mutz?
    That would measure out like a 170mm, so super choppered.

    Why do you need an EXT on a Mutz? 29+ doesn't fit out back, you don't need EXT to run 4.5" tires, so I assume you're running mixed wheels?

    I'd get the 120mm STD, run it at 140 or 150.

  66. #666
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    That would measure out like a 170mm, so super choppered.

    Why do you need an EXT on a Mutz? 29+ doesn't fit out back, you don't need EXT to run 4.5" tires, so I assume you're running mixed wheels?

    I'd get the 120mm STD, run it at 140 or 150.

    Actually I called Manitou in Europe and they told me they need to change the travel limitation for the EXT and the STD in the user manual in their web site? I understood there had been some issue with tire rubbing the frame?

    I will run the Mastadon Pro EXT on my Salsa Beargrease either in 120 or 110. I run it with 27.5"x3,8 so and 29+ so I need EXT then I suppose?

    I do not see any reason to run bigger tires than 3" on a full suspension anymore. My terrain require low air pressure and because the limitation of tire choice, with the right rubber compound and knob pattern, I have given up fat as FS. My kind of terrain does not give the fat category any advantages of grip that might is superior in dry conditions. Slick rock and gravel in dry conditions I would think it is the best.

  67. #667
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    NURSE BEN
    When you let all the air out and compress the fork, how close are the seals to hitting?

  68. #668
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    Quote Originally Posted by kntr View Post
    NURSE BEN
    When you let all the air out and compress the fork, how close are the seals to hitting?
    On a STD....the seal comes 7mm
    On the EXT, it's 27mm
    You say your fork moves 5"....that is 130mm, So either not enough spacers were taken out...or it isn't extending all the way.
    How many spacers did the shop take out?
    Measure your axle to crown distance when it's extended.

  69. #669
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    Holy crap fest. What a cess pool of misinformation.

    Rumblefish....it's not because tires are rubbing frames...it's the opposite because the early production of the forks did not get full travel (10mm short). The correct info is now on the site.There is also some changes to the service manual....most notable is a change from 5wt to 3 wt fork oil.

    And despite what Ben says....your travel adjustments are on the Air shaft side of the fork,,,not the damping side. The spacers are at the top of the air shaft.

    If your fork is not extending all the way, it can be 3 things:
    1. Not enough spacers were removed.
    2. The Negative air spring is either not equalized...or the fork was slightly compressed when the pump was removed.
    3. The rebound damper or the fork was reassembled while compressed and there's a vacuum in the lower legs.
    Last edited by the mayor; 08-28-2017 at 08:28 AM.

  70. #670
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    Are these forks really worth the extra cost, weight and effort? Starting to wonder. My wheels never come off the ground more than a few feet once in a while.

    Maybe a Bluto to eat some root/trail chatter, carbon fork for snow.

  71. #671
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    Dude, I edited my post, spacers only on air side.

    I've had the fork all the way apart, even the damper, it's not as clear as you'd like to make it.

    Mine was stuck, no idea why, my guess was air on the damper side, but even when I removed the damper leg it was still travel limited.

    I changed the single spacer on the damper leg to the same style spacer as the air side. I think it was getting stuck as it's got an odd fit and it's stepped.

    I'm getting the full 150mm travle at 50psi, works wonderfully, no complaints.

    So much better than a Bluto, rides nicer than my Pike.

    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    Holy crap fest. What a cess pool of misinformation.

    Rumblefish....it's not because tires are rubbing frames...it's the opposite because the early production of the forks did not get full travel (10mm short). The correct info is now on the site.There is also some changes to the service manual....most notable is a change from 5wt to 3 wt fork oil.

    And despite what Ben says....your travel adjustments are on the Air shaft side of the fork,,,not the damping side. The spacers are at the top of the air shaft.

    If your fork is not extending all the way, it can be 3 things:
    1. Not enough spacers were removed.
    2. The Negative air spring is either not equalized...or the fork was slightly compressed when the pump was removed.
    3. The rebound damper or the fork was reassembled while compressed and there's a vacuum in the lower legs.

  72. #672
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    Yes, but only if you want a better riding fork.

    If you don't care or don't notice the Bluto's faults, then why bother.

    Quote Originally Posted by on58960 View Post
    Are these forks really worth the extra cost, weight and effort? Starting to wonder. My wheels never come off the ground more than a few feet once in a while.

    Maybe a Bluto to eat some root/trail chatter, carbon fork for snow.

  73. #673
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    Within a couple millimeters of the seal. I get a full 150mm travel at 50psi.

    Quote Originally Posted by kntr View Post
    NURSE BEN
    When you let all the air out and compress the fork, how close are the seals to hitting?

  74. #674
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Dude, I edited my post, spacers only on air side.

    I've had the fork all the way apart, even the damper, it's not as clear as you'd like to make it.

    Mine was stuck, no idea why, my guess was air on the damper side, but even when I removed the damper leg it was still travel limited.

    I changed the single spacer on the damper leg to the same style spacer as the air side. I think it was getting stuck as it's got an odd fit and it's stepped.

    I'm getting the full 150mm travle at 50psi, works wonderfully, no complaints.

    So much better than a Bluto, rides nicer than my Pike.
    The reason your damper hung was #3. I did it myself. The damper has to be extended when installed or it hangs...same with the lower legs ( and you don't find out until it's back together....doh!)
    They are incredibly easy forks to work on and dial in....but that same simplicity makes it easy to screw up

  75. #675
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    Yes and no.

    Mine wouldn't compress once it was apart, so I kept fussing with it, pushing it in and out, then suddenly it released. I think the damper circuit was stuck/air trapping. That damper side spacer is sketchy, very unstable on the rod, no apparent reason for being oversized or for being stepped; it's for damper not for controlling leg extension. I swapped it for the a spacer from the air side which is much more stable.

    They should ship the cassette tool with the fork, I made one from an old cassette tool, wasn't hard, but I'd rather have it included esp if they're going to make this work in a one size fits all. I think it retails for $50!

    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    The reason your damper hung was #3. I did it myself. The damper has to be extended when installed or it hangs...same with the lower legs ( and you don't find out until it's back together....doh!)
    They are incredibly easy forks to work on and dial in....but that same simplicity makes it easy to screw up

  76. #676
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Yes and no.

    Mine wouldn't compress once it was apart, so I kept fussing with it, pushing it in and out, then suddenly it released. I think the damper circuit was stuck/air trapping. That damper side spacer is sketchy, very unstable on the rod, no apparent reason for being oversized or for being stepped; it's for damper not for controlling leg extension. I swapped it for the a spacer from the air side which is much more stable.

    They should ship the cassette tool with the fork, I made one from an old cassette tool, wasn't hard, but I'd rather have it included esp if they're going to make this work in a one size fits all. I think it retails for $50!
    I don't remember a spacer on the rebound damper? Is it between the piston and the piece that threads into the stancion(that you use the cassette tool on)? I haven't had the rebound apart in a while. Maybe that's what caused on of my forks to not extend the first time.

    Or are you talking about the spacers under the bottom out bumper???

    Pretty simple why they don't include the tool kit ( which is the casstte tool, milled down 8nn and 28mm sockets)...The average person will never use them. Or they would lose them before ever using them. And it would bump the price of the fork up $50.

    I made my tools....but I have access to a machine shop. When you take a $10 cassette tool and $30 worth of sockets, then spend time machining them....
    The $50 price is a deal

  77. #677
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    So a little update on my creaking and popping issues. I had a bike mechanic contact Manitou several months ago at which time they indicated some of the initial uppers didn't get glued properly. Well they finally sent a new upper. So hopefully in a few days I can ride without my bike sounding like microwave popcorn.

  78. #678
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    I drilled out the cassette tool and dremeled the notch, fifteen minutes, not too bad.

    The spacer on the damper leg was inside the stanchion, just below the rubber bumper; accss using the cassette tool.

    I got the socket free from Manitou with the "rubber bumper home fix kit".

    I'm wondering when Manitou is going to start releasing the Mastodon at different lengths...

    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    I don't remember a spacer on the rebound damper? Is it between the piston and the piece that threads into the stancion(that you use the cassette tool on)? I haven't had the rebound apart in a while. Maybe that's what caused on of my forks to not extend the first time.

    Or are you talking about the spacers under the bottom out bumper???

    Pretty simple why they don't include the tool kit ( which is the casstte tool, milled down 8nn and 28mm sockets)...The average person will never use them. Or they would lose them before ever using them. And it would bump the price of the fork up $50.

    I made my tools....but I have access to a machine shop. When you take a $10 cassette tool and $30 worth of sockets, then spend time machining them....
    The $50 price is a deal

  79. #679
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    I drilled out the cassette tool and dremeled the notch, fifteen minutes, not too bad.

    The spacer on the damper leg was inside the stanchion, just below the rubber bumper; accss using the cassette tool.

    I got the socket free from Manitou with the "rubber bumper home fix kit".

    I'm wondering when Manitou is going to start releasing the Mastodon at different lengths...
    Hmmm....I can't remember that spacer? I will have to take one apart and look.

    As far as "rubber bumper kit"....all I got was 7 spacers. And I had to call and email several times. Pretty sharty service.

    Supposedly, They are going to be shipping 150 forks soon...and just sell 80/100 and 120/140 forks

  80. #680
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    On a STD....the seal comes 7mm
    On the EXT, it's 27mm
    You say your fork moves 5"....that is 130mm, So either not enough spacers were taken out...or it isn't extending all the way.
    How many spacers did the shop take out?
    Measure your axle to crown distance when it's extended.
    The shop gave me 3 spacers back. I'm 185 and I've been running 40 psi and I only use about 75% of the travel on the hardest hits. If I let all the air out I get 5.5" of travel.

    If I run 30 psi I can get full travel but then the fork wont fully extend the last 5-10mm.

  81. #681
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    hold on, im just finding out this a problem with these forks? what is it? not getting full travel? how do i find out if mind is good?. i have the pro 120mm ext
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  82. #682
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    The sky is not falling

    The 120mm STD comes with three spacers installed on the air shaft, each spacer accounts for a potential travel addition of 10mm; remove one and gain 10mm travel, remove all three and gain 30mm travel.

    You have to completely dissasemble the fork; special tools are required, to change the travel up or down.

    The upper air side has a volume spacer assembly with three spacers, these are for air volume adjustment, they have no effect on travel; they are the same as RS tokens.

    The damper side has one spacer on the damper shaft, it does not affect travel, so leave it alone unless you like to play with stuff.

    The upper damper side is the ABS unit, this is oil filled and does not need to be messed with, unless you like messing with stuff.

    The lower fork legs get 15mm of semi bath 5-40 oil (same as motor oil).

    The damper gets 3wt damper oil (not motor oil), volume is determined by measuring oil depth; read the instructions. There's no good reason to mess with the damper.. unless you like messing with stuff

    There was an issue with a rubber bumper that reduced potential travel for 3-4mm, a kit is available for no cost from Manitou, which includes a special socket, oil, and some spacers. My early ediction EXT needed to be fixed, my new STD did not.

    The two special tools are a machined socket and a modified cassette tool. You get the socket for free if you ask Manitou to send you the bumper modification kit. The modified cassette tool can be purchased for ~$50 or you can make your own by drilling out a cassette tool and notching the side. I made mine with a drill and dremmel, tool ten minutes.

    If you are not getting full travel with the fork completely depressured, then you may have some air trapping on the damper side. To fix this, you need to dissasemble the fork and open up the lower leg on the damper side.

    Remember that the Manitou fork is not like a Fox or RS, you must use a shock pump to release air pressure AND when setting air pressure you need to extend the fork fully before removing the pump or you will not have full travel.

    Great fork, some learning curve, otherwise quite easy to work on.

    120mm EXT can only extend to a mximum of 140mm travel.
    120 STD can extend to a maximum of 150mm travel.
    EXT is 20mm longer A-C than an STD of similar travel.
    Parts are available to swap from EXT to STD, and vice versa, but getting the parts is difficult.

    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    hold on, im just finding out this a problem with these forks? what is it? not getting full travel? how do i find out if mind is good?. i have the pro 120mm ext

  83. #683
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  84. #684
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    Quote Originally Posted by in the trees View Post
    Pinkbike's Take:
    "Yes, fatbikes still have an air of weirdness about them, but that's also what makes them so fun, at least for me. They're also a very effective tool in the right conditions. The correct tool, I would argue, and it's components like the Mastodon Pro that make these machines feel more and more normal, even on perfectly clear singletrack. The Mastodon performs like a short-travel Mattoc, which is some serious praise, but it also goes a long way to making a fatbike feel as normal and as fun as possible."
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  85. #685
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    Couple of tuning notes:

    The change from 5wt (green-blue) to 3wt (clear) damper oil is a type change, but same viscosity at normal temps. The 3wt has much better low temperature performance.

    I use Motorex oils and the Motorex 2.5wt has the same viscosity as both the above but slightly better low temp than even the 3wt.
    If you get a Mastodon from me and the oil is red then it's Motorex.

    The bath oil is Manitou's semi bath 5w40. Yes it's a fully synthetic motor oil but not all 5w40 motor oils make good lube. Brand matters.
    We use Motorex Supergliss in house for warm conditions. Above freezing it's a better lube than the Semibath 5w40. The semibath is much better in the cold and the best all-round lube choice.
    We also have a related cold weather lube we'll release at some stage.

    For full travel, if anyone wants to make the fork less progressive then you can remove the oring around the IVA spacer piston under the top-cap. This opens up extra positive air chamber volume and disables the volume spacers.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz, Mech Engineer, Tuner, Manitou, Motorex, Vorsprung EPTC, SKF, Enduro
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  86. #686
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    Hey Dougal, thanks for chiming in, you are the resident expert

    So about the comment on making the fork less progressive by removing the o-ring: If I'm already running zero volume spacers, what additional change would I notice by removing the o-ring?

    When I pulled the damper, I changed to Motorex 2.5wt to improve winter performance.

    I'm still trying to source STD rods to convert my EXT...

    "For full travel, if anyone wants to make the fork less progressive then you can remove the oring around the IVA spacer piston under the top-cap. This opens up extra positive air chamber volume and disables the volume spacers. "

  87. #687
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Hey Dougal, thanks for chiming in, you are the resident expert

    So about the comment on making the fork less progressive by removing the o-ring: If I'm already running zero volume spacers, what additional change would I notice by removing the o-ring?

    When I pulled the damper, I changed to Motorex 2.5wt to improve winter performance.

    I'm still trying to source STD rods to convert my EXT...

    "For full travel, if anyone wants to make the fork less progressive then you can remove the oring around the IVA spacer piston under the top-cap. This opens up extra positive air chamber volume and disables the volume spacers. "
    It makes the fork less progressive and easier to reach deep travel. Try it and see. It's easily reversable if you don't like it. Just make sure you depressurise the air spring first. *POP*
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz, Mech Engineer, Tuner, Manitou, Motorex, Vorsprung EPTC, SKF, Enduro
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  88. #688
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    Between the mayor the nurse and Dougal I am a little confused.

    If I wanted to reduce bottom end travel on a 120 pro by 10mm (Make it a 110) is that done on the top air side? Or both sides of the lowers? Or what?

    I thought I had it clear in my mind but I seem to be reading conflicting information.

  89. #689
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    Quote Originally Posted by fugsworth View Post
    Between the mayor the nurse and Dougal I am a little confused.

    If I wanted to reduce bottom end travel on a 120 pro by 10mm (Make it a 110) is that done on the top air side? Or both sides of the lowers? Or what?

    I thought I had it clear in my mind but I seem to be reading conflicting information.
    If you want to increase tyre clearance then add spacers to the bottom of the rods inside the lower legs.
    If you want to decrease fork height then add spacers to the top of the rod inside the stanchion.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz, Mech Engineer, Tuner, Manitou, Motorex, Vorsprung EPTC, SKF, Enduro
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  90. #690
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    Pinkbike's review and Manatou's website both say 150 mm is OEM only. I still haven't read anywhere but here that the 120 mm STD can be converted to 150 mm.

  91. #691
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    Quote Originally Posted by in the trees View Post
    What's with all the fat hate over at pinkbike?

  92. #692
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    Quote Originally Posted by kntr View Post
    Pinkbike's review and Manatou's website both say 150 mm is OEM only. I still haven't read anywhere but here that the 120 mm STD can be converted to 150 mm.
    The STD 120mm can be extended to 150mm. Trust me. I've done it.

    It's a new development but no changes in hardware.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz, Mech Engineer, Tuner, Manitou, Motorex, Vorsprung EPTC, SKF, Enduro
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  93. #693
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    The STD 120mm can be extended to 150mm. Trust me. I've done it.

    It's a new development but no changes in hardware.
    Same here, got one on my Fatillac running at 150mm. It actually measures out at a tad under, more like 146-7mm when fully compressed.

    Like Dougal said, changing spacers on lower air shaft adjust extension, changing spacers on upper air shaft limit compression.

    For those wanting to run 29+ on an STD, thereby avoiding the 20mm increase in A-C of the EXT:

    If you add two spacers (20mm) to the top of the air shaft you reduce compression by 20mm and limit travel to a maximum of 130mm.

    I'm assuming that in this configuration the A-C would be equal to a non compression limited STD fork set at 130mm.

    Dougal, please correct me if this is wrong. My experimentation is limited by my needs; right now I don't needs 29+

    It makes more sense with the fork apart. I'll try to take some pics when I break down my EXT. Take a look at the manual, it's kinda understandable, kinda.

    The spacer system is not unlike the Wren.

  94. #694
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    The STD 120mm can be extended to 150mm. Trust me. I've done it.

    It's a new development but no changes in hardware.
    What else do you have to do besides removing the 3 spacers?

  95. #695
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Same here, got one on my Fatillac running at 150mm. It actually measures out at a tad under, more like 146-7mm when fully compressed.

    Like Dougal said, changing spacers on lower air shaft adjust extension, changing spacers on upper air shaft limit compression.

    For those wanting to run 29+ on an STD, thereby avoiding the 20mm increase in A-C of the EXT:

    If you add two spacers (20mm) to the top of the air shaft you reduce compression by 20mm and limit travel to a maximum of 130mm.

    I'm assuming that in this configuration the A-C would be equal to a non compression limited STD fork set at 130mm.

    Dougal, please correct me if this is wrong. My experimentation is limited by my needs; right now I don't needs 29+

    It makes more sense with the fork apart. I'll try to take some pics when I break down my EXT. Take a look at the manual, it's kinda understandable, kinda.

    The spacer system is not unlike the Wren.
    That's right, you can make a mini-EXT by taking a standard and throwing in 4x 10mm spacers. 2 under each b/o bumper. Reduces travel by 20mm, increases allowable wheel diameter by 40mm.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz, Mech Engineer, Tuner, Manitou, Motorex, Vorsprung EPTC, SKF, Enduro
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  96. #696
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    Quote Originally Posted by kntr View Post
    What else do you have to do besides removing the 3 spacers?
    Put the fork back together.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz, Mech Engineer, Tuner, Manitou, Motorex, Vorsprung EPTC, SKF, Enduro
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  97. #697
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    Put the fork back together.
    My fork must be an exception. I have 3 spacers in my hand and my fork only gets 140 mm. I'm not trying to be a smartass as I was wishing id get 150 but sadly I am not.

    Mine is spot on 140mm. The rubber ring is where my fork bottoms out with all the air out.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Manitou Mastodon?-img_8102.jpg  


  98. #698
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    Quote Originally Posted by kntr View Post
    My fork must be an exception. I have 3 spacers in my hand and my fork only gets 140 mm. I'm not trying to be a smartass as I was wishing id get 150 but sadly I am not.

    Mine is spot on 140mm. The rubber ring is where my fork bottoms out with all the air out.
    Some of the 150mm is in the bottom-out bumpers and some in the top-out. So 140-145mm in normal riding is about right. Check it's fully extended by pulling up before you disconnect the pump.
    But an "OMG I'M GONNA DIE" situation should get within 2mm or so of 150.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz, Mech Engineer, Tuner, Manitou, Motorex, Vorsprung EPTC, SKF, Enduro
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  99. #699
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    Some of the 150mm is in the bottom-out bumpers and some in the top-out. So 140-145mm in normal riding is about right. Check it's fully extended by pulling up before you disconnect the pump.
    But an "OMG I'M GONNA DIE" situation should get within 2mm or so of 150.
    Thanks for all the help. I took out the rubber O-ring on the IVA air side and it made a huge difference in the progression of the fork. I like my fork plush and this really helped. I use more travel, now.

    Does the distance from the bottom out rubber O-ring to the crown look about right? That's where I was concerned.

  100. #700
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Like Dougal said, changing spacers on lower air shaft adjust extension, changing spacers on upper air shaft limit compression.

    For those wanting to run 29+ on an STD, thereby avoiding the 20mm increase in A-C of the EXT:

    If you add two spacers (20mm) to the top of the air shaft you reduce compression by 20mm and limit travel to a maximum of 130mm.

    I'm assuming that in this config
    You've got this backasswards.
    You add the spacers to the bottom of the rods to limit bottom out and run a bigger wheel.
    You add or remove spacers from top of air shaft to change travel and extension.
    Last edited by the mayor; 08-30-2017 at 09:59 AM.

  101. #701
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    Quote Originally Posted by kntr View Post
    Thanks for all the help. I took out the rubber O-ring on the IVA air side and it made a huge difference in the progression of the fork. I like my fork plush and this really helped. I use more travel, now.

    Does the distance from the bottom out rubber O-ring to the crown look about right? That's where I was concerned.
    That distance looks correct for a STD fork at full compression....it's 7mm to the inside point of the crown.

    The only other thing you'd want to do is measure from the tire to crown with it compressed.

  102. #702
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    Quote Originally Posted by fugsworth View Post
    Between the mayor the nurse and Dougal I am a little confused.

    If I wanted to reduce bottom end travel on a 120 pro by 10mm (Make it a 110) is that done on the top air side? Or both sides of the lowers? Or what?

    I thought I had it clear in my mind but I seem to be reading conflicting information.
    What do you mean by
    bottom end travel?
    Are you trying to shorten the ride height?
    Are you trying to shorten the overall travel?
    Are you trying to get more space to be able to run a taller tire?
    And what fork ( STD or EXT?) do you have?

  103. #703
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    Wyatt is specing them as an option for their upcoming Fat Bike as well.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  104. #704
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tavic View Post
    Wyatt is specing them as an option for their upcoming Fat Bike as well.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    Thanks for shilling Wyatt...which is the new Bikes Direct

  105. #705
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    Thanks for shilling Wyatt...which is the new Bikes Direct
    Not their newest bike. The frame is actually going to be built in house (LaCrosse, WI).



    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  106. #706
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    Current Prototype

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  107. #707
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tavic View Post
    Not their newest bike. The frame is actually going to be built in house (LaCrosse, WI).



    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    Who cares? This is a thread about a fork.
    Take out an ad if you want to shill the bike

  108. #708
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    Who cares? This is a thread about a fork.
    Take out an ad if you want to shill the bike
    Reading through the thread, folks are posting about what bikes are being speced with them as well. Figured I'd share, but didn't figured I'd be trolled about it.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  109. #709
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    Btw, I'm not shilling anything. Just another rider sharing info.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  110. #710
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    What do you mean by
    bottom end travel?
    Are you trying to shorten the ride height?
    Are you trying to shorten the overall travel?
    Are you trying to get more space to be able to run a taller tire?
    And what fork ( STD or EXT?) do you have?
    I think dougal answered my question with this:
    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    If you want to increase tyre clearance then add spacers to the bottom of the rods inside the lower legs.
    .
    By bottom end of the travel I mean when the fork is completely compressed... "Tire clearance".
    My fork is a 120 pro std.
    I'd like the option to make it a 110

    Edit:
    Thanks Dougal, I did what you said and it was quite simple.

    I now have a 110 travel standard that will fit Minion 29x3 and Surly Bud with 531 A-C
    Last edited by fugsworth; 08-30-2017 at 07:00 PM.

  111. #711
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    I just spoke with Luke at Dirt Lab, he has ordered STD conversion parts for my EXT, but Manitou is saying September before they'll be available. I'll post follow ups once I get the conversion complete. Parts cost are estimated at $50.

  112. #712
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    September??? That's tomorrow! Outrageous!!!

  113. #713
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maxeymum View Post
    September??? That's tomorrow! Outrageous!!!
    It's already tomorrow, dude

  114. #714
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maxeymum View Post
    September??? That's tomorrow! Outrageous!!!
    In bike speak, September is really late October.

  115. #715
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    In bike speak, September is really late October.
    Manitou Mastodon?-maynz.jpg
    This is the calendar the bike industry uses.
    I'm going to bet the parts will be here by the winged 3 legged dog

  116. #716
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	maynZ.jpg 
Views:	152 
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ID:	1155358
    This is the calendar the bike industry uses.
    I'm going to bet the parts will be here by the winged 3 legged dog
    Post of the year! Or should I say post of the yellow toothy one eyed parrot...
    Last edited by iliketexmex; 09-08-2017 at 05:52 PM.

  117. #717
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    Awesome ride with the Mastodon


  118. #718
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fatpeak View Post
    Awesome ride with the Mastodon

    Now that's how a fatbike is supposed to be ridden!

  119. #719
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    Quote Originally Posted by ktmnealio View Post
    now that's how a fatbike is supposed to be ridden!
    wow!!

  120. #720
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    That video pretty much catches the Mastodon in action. Though my riding is no where near that level, I do work my Mastodons pretty hard, plenty of big hits, routine 4-5' airs, lots of bad lines with consequences..

    What I notice is that the fork goes where I point it, it keeps the tire in contact with the ground, it's not skittery or bouncy, there is no stiction, and flex is not an issue. It's certainly on par with a Pike, though I prefer the action of the Manitou over a Pike.

    Now I need to work on my nose wheelies

  121. #721
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    I'm contemplating buying one of these, and have gone through this forum. Have a few questions I am hoping can be answered by someone more knowledgeable.

    I see the "the travel change manual (page 9)" referenced and linked. However the link is dead and I couldn't find it via a search. Any idea if/how it can be accessed?

    I've read on the std model that you can gain tire clearance by adding spacers which sacrifices travel. makes sense in theory, but has anyone that has one actually done this yet? If so, any feedback on the change?

    This is going on a Surly ICT. I expect to run it mostly with 27.5+ and 3" tires. Concerned about throwing off geometry much, so leaning towards the STD, but then I may just like having suspension enough to want it with some 5" tires also. I can definitely see wanting to at least try it in the snow with some Dillinger 5s, which although they are labelled as 5" they aren't very big. Thinking one extra spacer would be plenty to run those, perhaps 2 spacers for my big Knards.

    Just looking for a little more confirmation or feedback that extending the std model works. real examples would be best, but guessing that manual referenced would help to clarify.

    Also, if any on has run one on an ICT specifically and has feedback, would like to hear it. Thanks.

  122. #722
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pkovo View Post
    I'm contemplating buying one of these, and have gone through this forum. Have a few questions I am hoping can be answered by someone more knowledgeable.

    I see the "the travel change manual (page 9)" referenced and linked. However the link is dead and I couldn't find it via a search. Any idea if/how it can be accessed?

    I've read on the std model that you can gain tire clearance by adding spacers which sacrifices travel. makes sense in theory, but has anyone that has one actually done this yet? If so, any feedback on the change?

    This is going on a Surly ICT. I expect to run it mostly with 27.5+ and 3" tires. Concerned about throwing off geometry much, so leaning towards the STD, but then I may just like having suspension enough to want it with some 5" tires also. I can definitely see wanting to at least try it in the snow with some Dillinger 5s, which although they are labelled as 5" they aren't very big. Thinking one extra spacer would be plenty to run those, perhaps 2 spacers for my big Knards.

    Just looking for a little more confirmation or feedback that extending the std model works. real examples would be best, but guessing that manual referenced would help to clarify.

    Also, if any on has run one on an ICT specifically and has feedback, would like to hear it. Thanks.
    27.5 + should fit a STD 120 no problem (531a-c). There is a picture of a fat minion also fitting. I shortened my 120 to 110 so I could have mud clearance with my 29+ minion. It worked.

  123. #723
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pkovo View Post
    I'm contemplating buying one of these, and have gone through this forum. Have a few questions I am hoping can be answered by someone more knowledgeable.

    I see the "the travel change manual (page 9)" referenced and linked. However the link is dead and I couldn't find it via a search. Any idea if/how it can be accessed?

    I've read on the std model that you can gain tire clearance by adding spacers which sacrifices travel. makes sense in theory, but has anyone that has one actually done this yet? If so, any feedback on the change?

    This is going on a Surly ICT. I expect to run it mostly with 27.5+ and 3" tires. Concerned about throwing off geometry much, so leaning towards the STD, but then I may just like having suspension enough to want it with some 5" tires also. I can definitely see wanting to at least try it in the snow with some Dillinger 5s, which although they are labelled as 5" they aren't very big. Thinking one extra spacer would be plenty to run those, perhaps 2 spacers for my big Knards.

    Just looking for a little more confirmation or feedback that extending the std model works. real examples would be best, but guessing that manual referenced would help to clarify.

    Also, if any on has run one on an ICT specifically and has feedback, would like to hear it. Thanks.
    I tried the EXT 120mm version on my Salsa Beargrease in 21" frame. Set up with low handlebars and flip over the stem, it was no problem. I would probably be better off with a 110 or a 100mm travel, on the Salsa, but I like to ride a bit aggressive and want a bit more travel. I wanted the EXT version to be able to use all kind of wheel sizes including 29+ and 5" tires.

  124. #724
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    Quote Originally Posted by KTMNealio View Post
    Now that's how a fatbike is supposed to be ridden!
    Then I had better send mine back.

  125. #725
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    Material is overestimated, it's always the rider not the bike or fork - reduced to the essentials (starts from 2:00)

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2_nDekAyZY

  126. #726
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    If you are only going to run shorter travel, ie <130mm, there is no reason to get an EXT for a 29+/5" tire clearance because you can add 10-20mm (1 or 2) of spacers to limit travel, thus preventing the tire from hitting the crown.

    Unlike the EXT, the STD will not increase A-C, so functionally the bike will remain at the same geo as it would with a rigid fork/Lauf/Bluto.

    I made this same mistake on my Wozo, prior to knowing enough about the Mastodon fork to make an informed decision; early adoptor syndrome.

    I am in the process of changing my EXT to an STD on my Wozo, I will run 130mm travel which leaves the the option of adding spacers to reduce travel if I decide to run 29+ again.

    To reiterate: STD with 20mm of spacers can be run up to 130mm and clear 29+/5" tires without increasing A-C.

    The question I have is why even create an EXT?

    Personally, I'd rather have a Mastodon "minus" with a narrower crown for 3-4" tires, 160mm travel; call me a dreamer.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    I tried the EXT 120mm version on my Salsa Beargrease in 21" frame. Set up with low handlebars and flip over the stem, it was no problem. I would probably be better off with a 110 or a 100mm travel, on the Salsa, but I like to ride a bit aggressive and want a bit more travel. I wanted the EXT version to be able to use all kind of wheel sizes including 29+ and 5" tires.

  127. #727
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    Has there been an engineering drawing of the fork posted? Not exploded parts view but 3-view dimensional that a frame builder would use.

  128. #728
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    If you are only going to run shorter travel, ie <130mm, there is no reason to get an EXT for a 29+/5" tire clearance because you can add 10-20mm (1 or 2) of spacers to limit travel, thus preventing the tire from hitting the crown.

    Unlike the EXT, the STD will not increase A-C, so functionally the bike will remain at the same geo as it would with a rigid fork/Lauf/Bluto.

    I made this same mistake on my Wozo, prior to knowing enough about the Mastodon fork to make an informed decision; early adoptor syndrome.

    I am in the process of changing my EXT to an STD on my Wozo, I will run 130mm travel which leaves the the option of adding spacers to reduce travel if I decide to run 29+ again.

    To reiterate: STD with 20mm of spacers can be run up to 130mm and clear 29+/5" tires without increasing A-C.

    The question I have is why even create an EXT?

    Personally, I'd rather have a Mastodon "minus" with a narrower crown for 3-4" tires, 160 mm travel; call me a dreamer.
    Thanks to everyone that replied, very helpful. This reply is pretty much spot on my situation. I never plan on using more than 130 mm of travel, and actually probably will use less. I'm thinking 120 max, maybe 110 as is for the std. If I run it with bigger tires, ad spacers below, 90-100. A-C distance is very much my concern because I feel the geo now with my rigid fork is great and don't want to increase any further than I need to. So, this makes perfect sense to me. STD it is.

    Hopefully my last question...Does it come with all the spacers I'll need, or do I need to order some extras to have enough to add and reduce travel?

  129. #729
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    I'm not sure if the fork includes the combination of spacers needed to meet all the possible combinations. From memory I remember getting some extra spacers with my forks, but now I have them all in one bag

    You do need to dissaemble the fork and move around spacers, for that you'll need the special socket and cassette tool OR pay a shop to do the work.

    [QUOTE=Pkovo;13337205]Thanks to everyone that replied, very helpful. This reply is pretty much spot on my situation. I never plan on using more than 130 mm of travel, and actually probably will use less. I'm thinking 120 max, maybe 110 as is for the std. If I run it with bigger tires, ad spacers below, 90

  130. #730
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    Wonder what parts there is in the conversion kit for ext to std? Just a shorter airshaft? Someone who have measured and seen the difference of ext and std airshaft? If we know we could shorten the ext shaft accordingly.

  131. #731
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    I was told that the kit includes three parts: spacers, air shaft, and something else (he didn't specify, maybe a washer or a seal/wipe). I'm waiting on the parts from Dirt Labs.

    As far as I know, the air shaft is replaced and the damper shaft is retained.

    Hey Dougal, you out there?? Anything to add?

    I kinda wonder why Manitou didn't simply set the STD for travel limitations from the outset, skipping the EXT air shaft and using spacers as we're looking to do. Wierd.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    Wonder what parts there is in the conversion kit for ext to std? Just a shorter airshaft? Someone who have measured and seen the difference of ext and std airshaft? If we know we could shorten the ext shaft accordingly.

  132. #732
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    In. i have a mastodon on my Fattilac.

    is there a fender for these things? my muckynuts won't work...

  133. #733
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    https://muckynutz.com/mudguards/fat_...face_fender_xl

    Quote Originally Posted by Rodney Jekyl View Post
    In. i have a mastodon on my Fattilac.

    is there a fender for these things? my muckynuts won't work...

  134. #734
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    If you are only going to run shorter travel, ie <130mm,

    To reiterate: STD with 20mm of spacers can be run up to 130mm and clear 29+/5" tires without increasing A-C.
    You got this wrong.
    If you add 20mm of spacers to the bottom.....you will now have a 100mm travel fork with the same a/c as the STD 120.
    If you remove 20mm of spacers from the top to compensate....you will have the same a-c as the 120 EXT because you are extending the fork.
    All pretty simple math.

  135. #735
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    That is not what I understand.

    I think we need Douglal to chime in as I am not gonna spend my time taking apart forks to prove/disprove something I do not plan to use.

    Tapping out until Dougal chimes in.

    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    You got this wrong.
    If you add 20mm of spacers to the bottom.....you will now have a 100mm travel fork with the same a/c as the STD 120.
    If you remove 20mm of spacers from the top to compensate....you will have the same a-c as the 120 EXT because you are extending the fork.
    All pretty simple math.

  136. #736
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pkovo View Post
    Thanks to everyone that replied, very helpful. This reply is pretty much spot on my situation. I never plan on using more than 130 mm of travel, and actually probably will use less. I'm thinking 120 max, maybe 110 as is for the std. If I run it with bigger tires, ad spacers below, 90-100. A-C distance is very much my concern because I feel the geo now with my rigid fork is great and don't want to increase any further than I need to. So, this makes perfect sense to me. STD it is.

    Hopefully my last question...Does it come with all the spacers I'll need, or do I need to order some extras to have enough to add and reduce travel?
    You get 2 10mm spacers with a new fork....
    If you put 1 on the bottom of each leg....you have a 110 fork and will have 10mm more clearance to the crown

  137. #737
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    That is not what I understand.

    I think we need Douglal to chime in as I am not gonna spend my time taking apart forks to prove/disprove something I do not plan to use.

    Tapping out until Dougal chimes in.
    Again....pretty simple math. If you take spacers off the top of the air shaft....it extends the fork and the a-c (take 20mm of spacers off....and you have a 120 travel fork with the a/c of the 140 STD...or the same as 120 EXT)

  138. #738
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    Okay, now I see what your saying.

    It is simple math.

    The A-C will be a combination of the changes made.

    So to maintain the A-C for an STD 120mm fork AND have 20mm of travel limit for 29+ wheels, you can only get 100mm of travel.

    Yes, that makes sense.

    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    You get 2 10mm spacers with a new fork....
    If you put 1 on the bottom of each leg....you have a 110 fork and will have 10mm more clearance to the crown

  139. #739
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Okay, now I see what your saying.

    It is simple math.

    The A-C will be a combination of the changes made.

    So to maintain the A-C for an STD 120mm fork AND have 20mm of travel limit for 29+ wheels, you can only get 100mm of travel.

    Yes, that makes sense.
    It is simple math.
    It only took me 42 times of taking these forks apart to figure it out.....doh!
    Then....the "ah ha!" moment happened.
    And there is a reason for the EXT fork that Manitou will probably reveal later this year.

  140. #740
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    And for those of you with angst over a-c length.....I have tried these forks in several configurations on 5 different bikes( my Echo and Farley EX,,and a Fatboy Carbon, a Bucksaw carbon and a Mukluk)......myself and the other people always end up liking the EXT's extra length.
    Where you ride and how you ride may have varied results.

    Pretty easy to test if you like a shorter fork using the pump method. Longer fork takes disassembly

  141. #741
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Okay, now I see what your saying.

    It is simple math.

    The A-C will be a combination of the changes made.

    So to maintain the A-C for an STD 120mm fork AND have 20mm of travel limit for 29+ wheels, you can only get 100mm of travel.

    Yes, that makes sense.
    Also....I took a 120STD....added 10mm on the bottom andtook off 20mm on top of the air shaft.
    I now have a 130 travel fork with the same a-c as the 140std/120 EXT ( 551) and still has almost 1 inch of clearance on the Chapucabra ( so with out the 10 on the bottom...you still have almost a 1/2 inch of clearance

  142. #742
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    i have that one. it doesn't work.

  143. #743
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rodney Jekyl View Post
    i have that one. it doesn't work.
    I'm using a fender that's sold under a bunch of different names.....easiest to find on Ebay sold by Fourier.
    A little cutting and it does the job.

  144. #744
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rodney Jekyl View Post
    i have that one. it doesn't work.
    Mine works, let me see who makes it.

  145. #745
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    It is simple math.
    It only took me 42 times of taking these forks apart to figure it out.....doh!
    Then....the "ah ha!" moment happened.
    And there is a reason for the EXT fork that Manitou will probably reveal later this year.
    Okay, you drop a hint, but no details?

    Pray tell, what other purpose could a 20mm longer air shaft serve?

    I want it!

  146. #746
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    I kinda wonder why Manitou didn't simply set the STD for travel limitations from the outset, skipping the EXT air shaft and using spacers as we're looking to do. Wierd.
    There is no strange reason for different legs between EXT/STD.
    You need the EXT air shaft to be a longer shaft to stop the end stroke before the STD. Also you need starting point a bit further out than the STD. This gives you longer A-C.

    The EXT air shaft is 20mm longer. It has in the 150mm version 2 spacer lower and 1 spacer in the upper part. Compared to the standard one that has 1 spacer lower and 0 in the upper. Difference between those two are 2 spacers=20 mm.

    In theory you could cut off 20mm of an EXT air shaft and get a STD one.
    Last edited by Rumblefish2010; 09-15-2017 at 04:34 AM.

  147. #747
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    There is no strange reason for different legs between EXT/STD.
    You need the EXT air shaft to be a longer shaft to stop the end stroke before the STD. Also you need starting point a bit further out than the STD. This gives you longer A-C.

    The EXT air shaft is 20mm longer. It has in the 150mm version 2 spacer lower and 1 spacer in the upper part. Compared to the standard one that has 1 spacer lower and 0 in the upper. Difference between those two are 2 spacers=20 mm.

    In theory you could cut off 20mm of an EXT air shaft and get a STD one.
    Pssst.....the longer air shaft doesn't stop the end stroke.....the spacers at the bottom do.
    I have both versions.
    Read my post above.

  148. #748
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    Pssst.....the longer air shaft doesn't stop the end stroke.....the spacers at the bottom do.
    Read my post above.
    Yes of course, but the shaft has to be 20mm longer anyway, to get the spacers at the bottom and to keep enough travel on top??

  149. #749
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rodney Jekyl View Post
    In. i have a mastodon on my Fattilac.

    is there a fender for these things? my muckynuts won't work...
    Manitou Mastodon?-kimg0062.jpg

  150. #750
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    Pssst.....the longer air shaft doesn't stop the end stroke.....the spacers at the bottom do.
    I have both versions.
    Read my post above.
    The spacers are needed at the bottom so the longer shafts don't meet internally. Otherwise Manitou would be using longer shafts for all.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz, Mech Engineer, Tuner, Manitou, Motorex, Vorsprung EPTC, SKF, Enduro
    www.dougal.co.nz

  151. #751
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    The spacers are needed at the bottom so the longer shafts don't meet internally. Otherwise Manitou would be using longer shafts for all.
    Dougal...I tried to PM this...but your inbox is full:
    On a 120 EXT:
    There is 2 1/2 inches of space from the top of the air shaft to the IVA compressed.
    Nothing hits if you take out 2 spacers at the bottom of the EXT dampers(which now makes it a 140 non EXT).
    What does happen is the air spring rate goes up because of the changed volume from the longer airshaft.
    (I don't know if the 150 EXT airshaft/rebound will hit)
    I am running a EXT120 where I removed 1 set of spacers from the bottom...it now has 130 trravel and still has plenty of clearance for 29+ tire. ( I had to remove the o-ring on the IVA per your suggestion to get better air spring progression)

    AND for anyone who has a early EXT 120 fork that only gets 107mm travel.....check how many spacers are at the bottom of the shafts.
    Mine had 4....there should be 3! ( You will notice the travel adjust guide on their site is now a B revision)

    Does anyone have a saved copy of the original travel guide? I thought it showed 4 spacers at the bottom of the EXT120....
    Last edited by the mayor; 09-17-2017 at 09:38 AM.

  152. #752
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    Dougal...I tried to PM this...but your inbox is full:
    On a 120 EXT:
    There is 2 1/2 inches of space from the top of the air shaft to the IVA compressed.
    Nothing hits if you take out 2 spacers at the bottom of the EXT dampers(which now makes it a 140 non EXT).
    What does happen is the air spring rate goes up because of the changed volume from the longer airshaft.
    (I don't know if the 150 EXT airshaft/rebound will hit)
    I am running a EXT120 where I removed 1 set of spacers from the bottom...it now has 130 trravel and still has plenty of clearance for 29+ tire. ( I had to remove the o-ring on the IVA per your suggestion to get better air spring progression)

    AND for anyone who has a early EXT 120 fork that only gets 107mm travel.....check how many spacers are at the bottom of the shafts.
    Mine had 4....there should be 3! ( You will notice the travel adjust guide on their site is now a B revision)

    Does anyone have a saved copy of the original travel guide? I thought it showed 4 spacers at the bottom of the EXT120....
    The stanchions are tapered internally near the top too. The Mattoc gets tight inside near full travel and stanchion length is the same. But I guess not having HBO gives the Mastodon a bit more breathing room.

    I've got original and rev B travel guides open here. No difference in the spacer diagrams on pages 9/10.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz, Mech Engineer, Tuner, Manitou, Motorex, Vorsprung EPTC, SKF, Enduro
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  153. #753
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    The stanchions are tapered internally near the top too. The Mattoc gets tight inside near full travel and stanchion length is the same. But I guess not having HBO gives the Mastodon a bit more breathing room.

    I've got original and rev B travel guides open here. No difference in the spacer diagrams on pages 9/10.
    Yes...the taper starts about 4ish inches down....which is the length of the IVA,,,,
    Thanks for looking at the Travel guide.

  154. #754
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    Yes...the taper starts about 4ish inches down....which is the length of the IVA,,,,
    Thanks for looking at the Travel guide.
    So conclusion is that you can convert a EXT to a 140 STD just by taking off 2 of 3 bottom tokens (2 of the 3 outside of the inner leg)??

    Why not just change settings on air cap volume adjustment if compression is getting to high.

  155. #755
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    The options on the Manitou site are confusing to me.
    I have a 2016 Farley 7 and currently run 26x5 2xl's.
    If I want a fork that would allow me to run the 5 inch tires or 27.5x4.5, which option should I select?
    I see chain reaction offers 26 or 27.5 forks in 100mm or 120mm travel. Would the 120mm 27.5 give me enough clearance? I see Trek specs the new Farley 7 with an 80mm fork.

  156. #756
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    Quote Originally Posted by headwind View Post
    The options on the Manitou site are confusing to me.
    I have a 2016 Farley 7 and currently run 26x5 2xl's.
    If I want a fork that would allow me to run the 5 inch tires or 27.5x4.5, which option should I select?
    I see chain reaction offers 26 or 27.5 forks in 100mm or 120mm travel. Would the 120mm 27.5 give me enough clearance? I see Trek specs the new Farley 7 with an 80mm fork.
    You want the EXT model....which is what some places are calling the 27.5
    If you get the 100 model.....that's the longest it will go, and you can shorten it to 80 easily..
    If you get the 120....you can go up to 140....and easily shorten it.
    And check Universalcycles....better pricing and I think they ship to Canada

  157. #757
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    You want the EXT model....which is what some places are calling the 27.5
    If you get the 100 model.....that's the longest it will go, and you can shorten it to 80 easily..
    If you get the 120....you can go up to 140....and easily shorten it.
    And check Universalcycles....better pricing and I think they ship to Canada
    Thanks for explaining this!
    I'll check them out also.

  158. #758
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    Mudguard

    Quote Originally Posted by Rodney Jekyl View Post
    In. i have a mastodon on my Fattilac.

    is there a fender for these things? my muckynuts won't work...
    Fathugger from Mudhugger works brilliantly and fits really good, just have to drill a couple of extra holes as its designed around the Bluto with the fork bridge at the front. I'm using one front & one on the rear!

  159. #759
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    Fyi worldwide cyclery has been floating a couple coupon codes online at their website for 13 and 15%. With a code you can snag the 120mm std comp version for about $435-$445. Free shipping in US.

    I have no affiliation with them whatsoever. Just passing along what I thought was a solid price.

  160. #760
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    This may be old news, but it was new to me....I think the manitou chart for which tires fit was done assuming 65mm rims.

    I say this because they list max tire diameter for std fork at 756mm. They list the 45north dillinger 5 tires max diameter at 759mm on their chart, so its a no go. However 45north does list that tire as having a 756mm diameter on 65mm rims, but only 750mm diameter on 82mm rims.

    So judging by this they should work with the std since 750 is well under the 756mm max. Since those are my winter tires and my winter rim size, I'll confirm this eventually, once temps drop.

  161. #761
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee View Post
    Anyone know if you can retro a Mastodon onto an ICT and not have the crown cream the downtube when the bars are rotated?
    Has anyone definitively answered this question? I'm thinking about going with an ICT/Mastodon combo, but would like to verify before pulling the trigger.

    I know Chris King used to make a race/baseplate extension but in checking their website I haven't seen if they make one for a fork lower the size of the Mastodon.
    "Ride what you love, love what you ride"

  162. #762
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    Quote Originally Posted by jddjirikian View Post
    Has anyone definitively answered this question? I'm thinking about going with an ICT/Mastodon combo, but would like to verify before pulling the trigger.

    I know Chris King used to make a race/baseplate extension but in checking their website I haven't seen if they make one for a fork lower the size of the Mastodon.
    Yes. Here...

    http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/sur...l#post13328841

  163. #763
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    Quote Originally Posted by jddjirikian View Post
    Has anyone definitively answered this question? I'm thinking about going with an ICT/Mastodon combo, but would like to verify before pulling the trigger.

    I know Chris King used to make a race/baseplate extension but in checking their website I haven't seen if they make one for a fork lower the size of the Mastodon.
    The one I have on order is for an ICT. I emailed Surly about it up front and they said they thought it should clear by 3mm Looking at all the measurements. A guy on one of the ICT forums put one on his a week or so back and it cleared. Cant recall for certain but think it was a med frame.

    He went with the 120mm ext comp. used the pump trick to set the travel lower to drop the A/C length.

  164. #764
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    Quote Originally Posted by mohrgan View Post
    Thanks!
    "Ride what you love, love what you ride"

  165. #765
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    Circling back....
    My removing 10mm of bottom out spacers on the EXT didn't work out too well for me.
    The air spring ramps up too much for my weight ( about 175 geared up)
    I even tried removing all the IVA internals to get a little more volume...
    Maybe it would work for a heavier person though
    After playing with the IVA on both the EXT and STD....for me, it works best with the IVA disabled ( o ring removed).
    As usual, your weight and riding style can change all this.

  166. #766
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    Tested more seriously the 150 EXT today. First I have to say I am not convinced yet. Something feels loose in the fork like the feel of something that is loose moving that should not be moving. Almost like the head tube bearings is loose.

    Second I was not happy bottoming out the fork 2 times on the test ride. I have some nice steep roll overs that ends pretty flat in the end. I was suprised that I used all the travel, since the ramp up seems really progressive. The air Setting set to sag at 27% and approx. 110psi. The set up guide says 92psi in 150mm??? That is to all little pressure obviously. I am 250-260lb so I need much high pressure, maybe that helps? All the tokens sits below piston on the IVA.

    The fork has measured travel at approx 150mm.

    Any suggestions for taking care of these issues?

  167. #767
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    Any suggestions for taking care of these issues?

    The most effective solutions usually involve posting on the internet. Since time immemorial actually.

  168. #768
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee View Post
    The most effective solutions usually involve posting on the internet. Since time immemorial actually.
    Could you explain what you actually mean?

  169. #769
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    That's a lot of pressure you're running.

    I'm 200#, on my 150mm STD 50psi worked great all summer, recently bumped to 55psi for the colder weather. Pressure is similar on my EXT 120. I have not notice the fork bottoming out, but I will use all of the travel on occassion.

    Maybe if you completely disassemble the fork and reassemble, you'll find the problem.

    I did this ^ and didn't find any problems, but it was educational.

    [QUOTE=Rumblefish2010;13357557]Tested more seriously the 150 EXT today. First I have to say I am not convinced yet. Something feels loose in the fork like the feel of something that is loose moving that should not be moving. Almost like the head tube bearings is loose.

    Second I was not happy bottoming out the fork 2 times on the test ride. I have some nice steep roll overs that ends pretty flat in the end. I was suprised that I used all the travel, since the ramp up seems really progressive. The air Setting set to sag at 27% and approx. 110psi. The set up guide says 92psi in 150mm??? That is to all little pressure obviously. I am 250

  170. #770
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    Tested more seriously the 150 EXT today. First I have to say I am not convinced yet. Something feels loose in the fork like the feel of something that is loose moving that should not be moving. Almost like the head tube bearings is loose.

    Second I was not happy bottoming out the fork 2 times on the test ride. I have some nice steep roll overs that ends pretty flat in the end. I was suprised that I used all the travel, since the ramp up seems really progressive. The air Setting set to sag at 27% and approx. 110psi. The set up guide says 92psi in 150mm??? That is to all little pressure obviously. I am 250-260lb so I need much high pressure, maybe that helps? All the tokens sits below piston on the IVA.
    I weigh 265 with gear and I had to put all the tokens above the piston to get it to act as progressively as I wanted. Mine felt way too linear with 1 token above.

  171. #771
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    Quote Originally Posted by KTMNealio View Post
    I weigh 265 with gear and I had to put all the tokens above the piston to get it to act as progressively as I wanted. Mine felt way too linear with 1 token above.
    Okay, moving the piston below the tokens then. At what air pressure do you run your fork With? Mine is an original OEM 150 mm travel build from factory.

    Anyone tried the Manitou IRT kit, with air pressure adjustment instead of tokens?

  172. #772
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    That's a lot of pressure you're running.

    I'm 200#, on my 150mm STD 50psi worked great all summer, recently bumped to 55psi for the colder weather. Pressure is similar on my EXT 120. I have not notice the fork bottoming out, but I will use all of the travel on occassion.
    I would say you are running far to low, since the air pressure guide says 84 psi in your weight range. I will say I am 15% off the suggested, but you are 30% off the suggested??

  173. #773
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    Okay, moving the piston below the tokens then. At what air pressure do you run your fork With? Mine is an original OEM 150 mm travel build from factory.

    Anyone tried the Manitou IRT kit, with air pressure adjustment instead of tokens?
    Irt acts a lot differently than tokens. The piston with tokens cant move, IRT it can, so the deeper you push into travel the further the IRT piston will compress.

    Talk about some serious tinkering to get that set up right but could make for a really nice tune.

    But your problems are in the lack of spacers decreasing volume. Way too linear. Get those spacers flipped and give it a good ride, followed by some pressure tinkering and probably be gtg.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
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  174. #774
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    Okay, moving the piston below the tokens then. At what air pressure do you run your fork With? Mine is an original OEM 150 mm travel build from factory.
    Mine is set at 120mm, and I run about 95 psi (high speed at 1, low speed at 2) on my pump (I think I lose about 5 psi when I disconnect).
    I've ran mine as high as 110psi (high speed at 2 and low speed at 1) and as low as 75psi (high speed at 2 and low speed at 2).

  175. #775
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    Quote: (Late to the party here, but I can say the Fox 34 140 Boost Plus has plenty of clearance for a VanHelga 4.0 on Marge Lite. I have crammed a 4.6 Flowbeist in that fork with enough clearance to have fun and no problems.)

    What's the width of the two tires at the widest point? Also the width of the fork at the narrowest point.
    I picked up a Manitou Magnum Comp 27.5+ 110 boost to try on my Bucksaw built because I wanted a narrower fork. I mounted up a Vee Tire H-Billy 4.25" which measures 3.5" on a 26" Surly Rabbit Hole 50mm rim. I've got about 1/16" clearance on each side between the tire and fork.
    Sounds like the Fox 34 might have more clearance.

  176. #776
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    I think the 2 manitou threads threw you off, this is the Mastodon thread, huge fat bike forks (much bigger than magnum or fox 34).

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
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  177. #777
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    The quote above is from page 7. Looks like he through it in as an option to the Mastodon, and guys just skipped over it. Since I'm limited to 3.8" tire width I was looking for an alternative to the Mastodon.

  178. #778
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    Yup, but the clearance is still not great with the Fox...

    There's a bunch of us in this boat, but only because the Mastodon is so friggin huge and we're all weight weenies at heart. But seriously, what's a pound on a fat bike?

    Width is just an appearance thing; from the side the Mastodon doesn't like that big

    I'd run a plus fork on my Fatillac if there was a true 4" between fork legs, that would be good enough for B Fat and it would work okay for 26 x 4" tires on narrower rims.

    In other words, the Mastodon is a great fork if you can get over the perception that it makes your butt look fat.

    Quote Originally Posted by gumba View Post
    The quote above is from page 7. Looks like he through it in as an option to the Mastodon, and guys just skipped over it. Since I'm limited to 3.8" tire width I was looking for an alternative to the Mastodon.

  179. #779
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    I'm 200 with gear and run 50-55 psi in my 150 Pro and its perfect. I use all the travel and have never felt it bottom either.

  180. #780
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    And I would say that you don't know what you're talking about "yet".

    Look, you just got the fork, we've been riding them for months. Listen to the prevailing wisdom and learn.

    It was discussed on this thread, months ago, that the factory suggested pressures were to high.

    I'm not running my pressure to low, I'm running it right where it should be. I have no excessive bottoming, I have full travel utilization, and the ride is exceptional.

    I'm not sure who set your fork up "from the factory", but it ain't working right.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    I would say you are running far to low, since the air pressure guide says 84 psi in your weight range. I will say I am 15% off the suggested, but you are 30% off the suggested??

  181. #781
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumblefish2010 View Post
    Tested more seriously the 150 EXT today. First I ?
    You have a 150 EXT?
    Last I heard, they weren't going to be available for a while

  182. #782
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    You have a 150 EXT?
    Last I heard, they weren't going to be available for a while
    Bought it through a dealer on a bike. So it is specified as a OEM part. LBS called Hayes/Manitou technical dep. today and they comfirmed that it is broken. There is something loose/broken inside the airside. It also got confirmed that the negative and the positive air is not balanced since the fork gets stuck down when relasing the air. We tried to fill up again and it did not extend.

    This is strange, but I commented to LBS that it got a loud mechanical sound only one time when cycling the fork after the first airfilling of the fork. The sound was like a metalpeace snapping.

    Anyway Manitou is replacing the fork so LBS will receive during next week. Very expedite service I will say.
    So let us hope for a better start of these fork.

    BTW they put on the IRT ( infinite rate tune) kit, so I can tune the mid stroke and end stroke infinite :-)

    Also thinking of taking out 1 token at bump stop....since it will not have any influence when using IRT, I mean any problem hitting the bored part of the tube with the IRT is impossible. And the IRT will probably get the compression correct.

  183. #783
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    And I would say that you don't know what you're talking about "yet".

    Look, you just got the fork, we've been riding them for months. Listen to the prevailing wisdom and learn.

    It was discussed on this thread, months ago, that the factory suggested pressures were to high.

    I'm not running my pressure to low.
    I think you are right, due to broken air assembly, it probably was wrong the pressure I used. Still really exited to see these fork will do alright with 60psi, 20% more than your riding weight considered.

  184. #784
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    SOLD

    FS: Manitou Mastodon, EXT, 120mm, steerer cut to ~8" (will confirm tonight).

    Currently mounted on a Wozo. No issues, works great, ridden a couple dozen times, no scratches.

    Selling due to no longer riding 29+ wheels; don't need the extra clearance.

    $650 shipped in Continental US.
    Last edited by Nurse Ben; 10-12-2017 at 04:04 PM.

  185. #785
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    Those that have had this fork apart, if your starting with a 100mm Pro STD and occasionally want to bump up to 120mm, would it be as easy of swapping the 120-140mm air shaft and go?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  186. #786
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    No. Think rebuild breakdown.

    The easy way is to get the 120mm, then use a fork shock to reduce height.

    [QUOTE=Haste11;13375167]Those that have had this fork apart, if your starting with a 100mm Pro STD and occasionally want to bump up to 120mm, would it be as easy of swapping the 120

  187. #787
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    Quote Originally Posted by Haste11 View Post
    Those that have had this fork apart, if your starting with a 100mm Pro STD and occasionally want to bump up to 120mm, would it be as easy of swapping the 120-140mm air shaft and go?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    You can't bump a 100 up to 120.
    The 100 has shorter Stanchions.
    You can shorten the 120 to 100....but you can't lengthen the 100 to 120

  188. #788
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    Just got my second Mastodon STD 120mm fork mounted on the Wozo, replacing an EXT 120mm.

    I figured on adding a 10mm spacer and stretching the travel to 130mm, but before breaking the fork down I decided to measure clearance with Barbegazi 27.5 x 4.5" on Jackalopes.

    Completely aired down and slammed (multiple times), there was 4-5mm of clearance between the crown and the tire.

    The tire diameter measures out to ~ 765mm.

    I'm thinking no spacer and 140mm travel

  189. #789
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    I normally lurk, but in wrapping my brain around mod options I decided to throw this chart together based on the Manitou docs and what's been discussed in this thread. I took liberty of simplifying tire sizes, and did not include any options for removing bottom spacers.

    LMK if there are any mistakes.

    Bottom line - if you have the tools, get the STD. If you want it to work out of the box with larger tires, get the EXT.

    Manitou Mastodon?-manitou-mastodon-mod-chart.png

  190. #790
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    In the travel range....there is no minimum....it could be zero.
    Don't know how you came up with the max 130 in the 29+
    And I don't know why you have all the B numbers in there.You might add 1 or 2 to the STD to make it a EXT....but that's it.
    I didn't bother to check the rest....
    And Manitou updated the travel guide on their site
    https://wwwmanitoumtbcom-ct78ltl6iyp...ange-Guide.pdf

  191. #791
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    Don't know how you came up with the max 130 in the 29+
    Max 130 for 29+ is simple math: add 2 to bottom (total of 3, gives you EXT clearance), remove all 3 top spacers. This 130mm max has been mentioned previously in this thread.

    Also, italics part notes that 140mm may be possible as a "tweener" between STD and EXT if using just 2 bottom spacers provides satisfactory clearance.

    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    In the travel range....there is no minimum....it could be zero.
    And I don't know why you have all the B numbers in there.You might add 1 or 2 to the STD to make it a EXT....but that's it.
    I didn't bother to check the rest....
    And Manitou updated the travel guide on their site
    https://wwwmanitoumtbcom-ct78ltl6iyp...ange-Guide.pdf
    Chart is based on the rev B guide.

    I do pretty clearly claim at the bottom the B4/5 don't make much sense, and I agree that 0 travel or anything in between is possible using methods not involving spacers.

    Point of this is to give a reference for the spacer and travel/ac/tire questions, as sometimes seeing the larger picture helps people (incld myself) grasp what's going on.

  192. #792
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    It would be best to have a fork in hand to do these measurements. Going off Manitou's info without first hand knowledge is a fools's errand.

    For example: I have measured a Barbegazi mounted on a Jackalope on a Mastodon STD and there was 1/8 clearance; diameter is 765mm. According to Manitou, there is only spacing for a 756mm diameter. Perhaps they are being very conservative, but still it's not accurate.

    My opinion, having had an EXT and currentyly owning two STD, is that the EXT is only necessay if you want to run 140mm travel with wheels taller than 760mm.

    If you don't need all that travel, it is much easier and better geo, to use an STD and add a 10mm travel limiting spacer. You can still use up to 140mm of travel without changing A-C.

    So really there is very little reason to get an EXT at this time as even the tallest 29+ can be managed on an STD with a travel reducing spacer, without changing A-C.

    Quote Originally Posted by mrcheviot View Post
    Max 130 for 29+ is simple math: add 2 to bottom (total of 3, gives you EXT clearance), remove all 3 top spacers. This 130mm max has been mentioned previously in this thread.

    Also, italics part notes that 140mm may be possible as a "tweener" between STD and EXT if using just 2 bottom spacers provides satisfactory clearance.



    Chart is based on the rev B guide.

    I do pretty clearly claim at the bottom the B4/5 don't make much sense, and I agree that 0 travel or anything in between is possible using methods not involving spacers.

    Point of this is to give a reference for the spacer and travel/ac/tire questions, as sometimes seeing the larger picture helps people (incld myself) grasp what's going on.

  193. #793
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post
    Perhaps they are being very conservative
    Yes they are. Published figures need to be safe for the worst conditions of wheel flex and over-inflated tyres.

    Which is a good thing. If you want to take responsibility then you can do whatever you want.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz, Mech Engineer, Tuner, Manitou, Motorex, Vorsprung EPTC, SKF, Enduro
    www.dougal.co.nz

  194. #794
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrcheviot View Post
    Max 130 for 29+ is simple math: add 2 to bottom (total of 3, gives you EXT clearance), remove all 3 top spacers. This 130mm max has been mentioned previously in this thread.

    Also, italics part notes that 140mm may be possible as a "tweener" between STD and EXT if using just 2 bottom spacers provides satisfactory clearance.
    You are bad at math. I have a 120 STD here set at 150 and a 29+ works fine.
    Do you even have one of these forks? Ever actually have one apart?

  195. #795
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    Yup, conservative, but with a 10mm spacer it would be quite safe, so I'll go there.

    Still leaves me scratching my head as to the need for an EXT.

    [QUOTE=Dougal;13381870]Yes they are. Published figures need to be safe for the worst conditions of wheel flex and over

  196. #796
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    [QUOTE=Nurse Ben;13382068]Yup, conservative, but with a 10mm spacer it would be quite safe, so I'll go there.

    Still leaves me scratching my head as to the need for an EXT.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    Yes they are. Published figures need to be safe for the worst conditions of wheel flex and over
    The Snowshoe 2XL won't fit in the STD unless it's modified....so it's a good idea to have a off the shelf product.And a few more big tires are coming.
    I also like the longer fork on my bikes.

  197. #797
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    i have 2xl mounted on 90mm spesh rim on ext. clearance is ok. just enough. i imagine std would clear
    17 Lynskey Fatskey
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  198. #798
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nurse Ben View Post

    If you don't need all that travel, it is much easier and better geo, to use an STD and add a 10mm travel limiting spacer.
    So you're saying steeper head angles are better now...??? wtf

  199. #799
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    Quote Originally Posted by KTMNealio View Post
    So you're saying steeper head angles are better now...??? wtf
    HaHAHAHA! and here we go!

  200. #800
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    Quote Originally Posted by KTMNealio View Post
    So you're saying steeper head angles are better now...??? wtf
    Neal, have you been drinking too much coffee again?

    Increasing A-C is not the way to slacken steering angle. There are anglesets that can decrease HTA by up to 1.5 degrees, equivalent to a 30mm increase in A-C, without adding to stack.

    My Wozo began life with a 69deg HTA based on a 100mm Bluto. I'm riding a Mastodon STD 130/140mm fork which works out to a 67-67.5 HTA.

    I had an angleset installed on the Wozo when I was running a Mastodon EXT 120 (same A-C as a Mastodon STD 120) and I found that I liked the ride with a 67 deg HTA, so I pulled the angleset.

    Most people would consider a 67 deg HTA on a fat bike to be fairly slack. My Fatillac is also running an HTA of 67deg.

    Each person and set up has a sweet spot. Slack is relative, too slack has it's disadvantaged as does having an HTA that is too steep.

    If you take the time to learn a bike and you can experiment with setups, you'll learn first hand the pros and cons of changing HTA.

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