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  1. #1301
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    That is indeed how the drawings show it. I'll ask the Engineers what's going on.

    I haven't yet seen a Mastodon Comp in the metal. Only Mastodon Pro's.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz and NZ Manitou Agent.
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  2. #1302
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    Hi Guys, I have read the Entire Thread which threw me head into some mind boggling decisions decisions... But I love the fact that all of you Praise this fork! I have had a Pike for a little bit and it was Soo Good but you guys say this is much Much Better.

    I'm currently decided to get a Mastodon Comp STD but I have a critical question about A-to-C and head angles stuff...
    My bike is currently a 2015 Norco Bigfoot 6.2, in the summer I run 29+3.0 tires, in the winter I'd like to run Bud and Lou with Thick Ghetto Studs.

    The Original rigid Fork is 455mm in length, currently I'm on CC EC44/40 which adds 12mm to stack height + Lauf Carbonara (495mm A-to-C) so I'm already at +52mm - this Does Ride Fine(no HS spacers) except - the Lauf is Really short travel and really bouncy and I sometimes like to enjoy a Rock Garden... but this is impossible. Then again Really good at the small stuff + 2 Great points: 0 maintenance and 1.1KG weight.

    I see More Economical/Practical sense to buy the COMP STD 120mm - versatile travel maybe will extend to 140mm (or some one said up to 150mm).
    Tech support suggested that with SAG(20%) During the ride I would get 495mm A-to-C on the 100mm EXT COMP Set Lowered to 80mm.
    Considering the STD Comp is 20mm shorter A-to-C I can manage the same A-to-C with SAG on 100mm STD Comp (not lowered) - but looks like will need to make sure the fork is not touching the tires at full compression.

    Now here are the thoughts I wanted a second Take on:
    1. If I get the 100mm STD COMP - will I need to put stoppers to prevent the BUD+studs from reaching the fork at full compression? can it be done without any specific tools.
    2. Is there any way to lower the 120 STD COMP? or reduce Ride height - don't want to go too too much higher than needed.
    3. Will all the tools(or a mattoc kit) + oil + ETC will be required in order to run 29+/26x4.85(studded BUD)

    I'm some what handy, but i did try to take apart a pike uturn air and service it and didn't really work out tooo tooo well... not sure how much more complicated this would be.

    Ahead of time I want to thank you all for the great thread!

  3. #1303
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    So about that gap shim in the Mastodon Comp rebound damper. I have official word back from the Engineers.

    It's there for extra flow in very cold weather to stop the rebound getting too slow. If you're fat-biking above zero then feel free to remove it.

    The average fork oil gets over 5x thicker from 40C down to 0C. So it's difficult to tune for both.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz and NZ Manitou Agent.
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  4. #1304
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    So about that gap shim in the Mastodon Comp rebound damper. I have official word back from the Engineers.

    It's there for extra flow in very cold weather to stop the rebound getting too slow. If you're fat-biking above zero then feel free to remove it.

    The average fork oil gets over 5x thicker from 40C down to 0C. So it's difficult to tune for both.
    Many thanks Dougal!
    I will rearrange the stack while switching to Supergliss in the lower

  5. #1305
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    Quote Originally Posted by madmitry View Post
    Hi Guys, I have read the Entire Thread which threw me head into some mind boggling decisions decisions... But I love the fact that all of you Praise this fork! I have had a Pike for a little bit and it was Soo Good but you guys say this is much Much Better.

    I'm currently decided to get a Mastodon Comp STD but I have a critical question about A-to-C and head angles stuff...
    My bike is currently a 2015 Norco Bigfoot 6.2, in the summer I run 29+3.0 tires, in the winter I'd like to run Bud and Lou with Thick Ghetto Studs.

    The Original rigid Fork is 455mm in length, currently I'm on CC EC44/40 which adds 12mm to stack height + Lauf Carbonara (495mm A-to-C) so I'm already at +52mm - this Does Ride Fine(no HS spacers) except - the Lauf is Really short travel and really bouncy and I sometimes like to enjoy a Rock Garden... but this is impossible. Then again Really good at the small stuff + 2 Great points: 0 maintenance and 1.1KG weight.

    I see More Economical/Practical sense to buy the COMP STD 120mm - versatile travel maybe will extend to 140mm (or some one said up to 150mm).
    Tech support suggested that with SAG(20%) During the ride I would get 495mm A-to-C on the 100mm EXT COMP Set Lowered to 80mm.
    Considering the STD Comp is 20mm shorter A-to-C I can manage the same A-to-C with SAG on 100mm STD Comp (not lowered) - but looks like will need to make sure the fork is not touching the tires at full compression.

    Now here are the thoughts I wanted a second Take on:
    1. If I get the 100mm STD COMP - will I need to put stoppers to prevent the BUD+studs from reaching the fork at full compression? can it be done without any specific tools.
    2. Is there any way to lower the 120 STD COMP? or reduce Ride height - don't want to go too too much higher than needed.
    3. Will all the tools(or a mattoc kit) + oil + ETC will be required in order to run 29+/26x4.85(studded BUD)

    I'm some what handy, but i did try to take apart a pike uturn air and service it and didn't really work out tooo tooo well... not sure how much more complicated this would be.

    Ahead of time I want to thank you all for the great thread!
    Always get the longer fork, you can reduce height and travel with top-out spacers in the air-side.

    You need to check the inflated OD of all those tyres to see how much clearance they'll have and how many bottom-out spacers you may or may not need to run to stop them buzzing the crown at full compression.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz and NZ Manitou Agent.
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  6. #1306
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    Always get the longer fork, you can reduce height and travel with top-out spacers in the air-side.

    You need to check the inflated OD of all those tyres to see how much clearance they'll have and how many bottom-out spacers you may or may not need to run to stop them buzzing the crown at full compression.
    Thanks Dougal.. IS it difficult to reduce travel?
    my outside diameters are 75.57cm(bud) and 76.2cm(29+)
    per site its min distance to crown 26mm, max OD 758mm

    Is it difficult to put in the bottom out spacers (looks like I'm 6.3mm apart between the two tires I think I'll keep one consistent setup)?

  7. #1307
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    Quote Originally Posted by madmitry View Post
    Thanks Dougal.. IS it difficult to reduce travel?
    my outside diameters are 75.57cm(bud) and 76.2cm(29+)
    per site its min distance to crown 26mm, max OD 758mm

    Is it difficult to put in the bottom out spacers (looks like I'm 6.3mm apart between the two tires I think I'll keep one consistent setup)?
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWN7FxNb2u4 at the beginning they show how to adjust the spacers is that what you meant? so what would be a procedure to make it shorter (if needed)?
    and where to put the bottom out spacers?

    thanks!

  8. #1308
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    Quote Originally Posted by madmitry View Post
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QWN7FxNb2u4 at the beginning they show how to adjust the spacers is that what you meant? so what would be a procedure to make it shorter (if needed)?
    and where to put the bottom out spacers?

    thanks!
    https://www.manitoumtb.com/wp-conten...ange-Guide.pdf

    Top-out spacers are under the air piston (inside the stanchion) they reduce fork length and travel.

    Bottom out spacers are under the stanchions (inside the lower legs) and reduce fork travel while increasing tyre clearance.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz and NZ Manitou Agent.
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  9. #1309
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    https://www.manitoumtb.com/wp-conten...ange-Guide.pdf

    Top-out spacers are under the air piston (inside the stanchion) they reduce fork length and travel.

    Bottom out spacers are under the stanchions (inside the lower legs) and reduce fork travel while increasing tyre clearance.
    This looks like I'll need the Mattoc Toolkit, would I need Grease? Oil? and torque wrench?

    And would include removing the Lowers Am I correct in this?

    Kind of like here: https://youtu.be/4PtIW79qN00

    So basically taking the Mastodon Comp STD Spacer Guide
    the 120mm comes with 1 bottom out spacer (P/N - 121-29113) in order to decrease travel I would need to put in 1(total of 2) Spacer to increase bottom out clearance by 10mm - thus reducing the travel by 10mm right?

    For Top-out Spacers Mastodon Comp STD Spacer Guide
    the 120mm comes with 3 Top-out spacers (same P/N) and if I need to reduce Travel I'll need to put 1(total of 4) more spacer in 10mm Increments?

    Thanks! Especially for your Patience!
    I know you have said it probably a few times, I'm just trying to reiterate so that I fully understand...

  10. #1310
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    See this post for a step by step on accessing the air and rebound shafts to change the travel:
    http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/man...l#post13427786

    The Mattoc tool kit is worthwhile and makes this easy. Everything else needed is spelled out steps called out from the manuals.

    Note that, unlike the Pro, the Comp air and rebound shafts have different diameters so the spacers are not interchangeable between the shafts. If you are intending to reduce travel by 10mm you'll need one spacer for each shaft.

  11. #1311
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    Quote Originally Posted by david.p View Post
    See this post for a step by step on accessing the air and rebound shafts to change the travel:
    http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/man...l#post13427786

    The Mattoc tool kit is worthwhile and makes this easy. Everything else needed is spelled out steps called out from the manuals.

    Note that, unlike the Pro, the Comp air and rebound shafts have different diameters so the spacers are not interchangeable between the shafts. If you are intending to reduce travel by 10mm you'll need one spacer for each shaft.
    I now have a decent supply of the 10mm thick spacers for 10mm diameter air-shafts: https://www.shockcraft.co.nz/travel-...t-manitou.html
    Also the 10mm thick spacers for 12.7mm diameter Comp damper shafts: https://www.shockcraft.co.nz/travel-...t-manitou.html

    I don't yet have a good supply of the 10mm thick spacers for 10mm diameter Pro damper shafts. I just need the individual part number which I should have in a week or so.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz and NZ Manitou Agent.
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  12. #1312
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    anyone has a spare decal kit can let me have it?
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  13. #1313
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    I'm about to purchase the Pro EXT version. Do both 100 mm and 120 mm come with equal amount of damper and spring side spacers with the fork? Or should I prefer either 100 or 120 version to get the most amount of spacers that come with the fork from factory?

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  14. #1314
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    Quote Originally Posted by madmitry View Post
    Hi Guys... in the summer I run 29+3.0 tires, in the winter I'd like to run Bud and Lou with Thick Ghetto Studs.
    The Bud on my Mastodon Pro without studs will rub the underside of the crown just a wee bit on really hard landings/bumps. I'm 6'4" tall, 240lbs and can shift alot of weight to the fork so as suggested in this post somewhere I re-arranged the spacers in the IVA so that the fork is more progressive and prevents the tire from hitting the crown as often or as hard. It can still touch it, just not very violently.

    The 120mm fork comes with 4 spacers on the IVA, three under and one above. With the Bud on I like one under and three above, then run 10-15psi less than in the fork. With smaller tires running two under, two above is also very nice.

    It should take about 1 minute to adjust the IVA so it's worth trying out.

  15. #1315
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    Quote Originally Posted by Troy Carter View Post
    The Bud on my Mastodon Pro without studs will rub the underside of the crown just a wee bit on really hard landings/bumps. I'm 6'4" tall, 240lbs and can shift alot of weight to the fork so as suggested in this post somewhere I re-arranged the spacers in the IVA so that the fork is more progressive and prevents the tire from hitting the crown as often or as hard. It can still touch it, just not very violently.

    The 120mm fork comes with 4 spacers on the IVA, three under and one above. With the Bud on I like one under and three above, then run 10-15psi less than in the fork. With smaller tires running two under, two above is also very nice.

    It should take about 1 minute to adjust the IVA so it's worth trying out.
    The better solution in this case would be to put some spacers(metal washers) under the rubber bump stop

  16. #1316
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcracer2 View Post
    The better solution in this case would be to put some spacers(metal washers) under the rubber bump stop
    Dude, you don't need to go Further Than this page to see that you are NOT correct. Please read Below

  17. #1317
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    Quote Originally Posted by madmitry View Post
    Dude, you don't need to go Further Than this page to see that you are NOT correct. Please read Below
    I don't think you understand; if you only need a few mm of clearance you can install smaller spacers than the big ones under the compression stop rather than a 10mm change or whatever. Changing to a more progressive air curve will help but tire clearance issues to the crown should be handled by the rubber bump stop. What happens when the temp drops 40deg and the tire slams the crown because sag wasn't reset for the temp?

  18. #1318
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcracer2 View Post
    The better solution in this case would be to put some spacers(metal washers) under the rubber bump stop
    This could possibly create a bit more clearance but it's not something I looked into at all.

    At my size I could blow through the stock IVA position pretty easily. So it's not that i was strictly trying to keep the tire from hitting but more trying to tune the fork for what I wanted with the side effect of the tire hitting far less often or aggressively. Luckily, they were nice enough to include the IVA just for my primary purpose.

  19. #1319
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    Reply #1308 from the PRO:
    https://www.manitoumtb.com/wp-conten...ange-Guide.pdf

    Top-out spacers are under the air piston (inside the stanchion) they reduce fork length and travel.

    Bottom out spacers are under the stanchions (inside the lower legs) and reduce fork travel while increasing tyre clearance.

  20. #1320
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcracer2 View Post
    I don't think you understand; if you only need a few mm of clearance you can install smaller spacers than the big ones under the compression stop rather than a 10mm change or whatever. Changing to a more progressive air curve will help but tire clearance issues to the crown should be handled by the rubber bump stop. What happens when the temp drops 40deg and the tire slams the crown because sag wasn't reset for the temp?
    I'm not taking my Bud out when it's that cold, only down to maybe -10f for me and it worked well enough for me in those conditions with the sag set in the cold. Just a light rub...I'll live with that.

  21. #1321
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    Is there a way to get the 8mm thin wall socket without buying the whole tool kit? Want to drop the lowers, check the oil. Lots of stiction...

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

  22. #1322
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    In case anyone with a Sasquatch is wondering, the crown and knobs clear no problem on a size large frame.

    I'm only one ride in, but ho-lee-chit! I cannot believe how much better the bike feels compared to the Bluto. All I did was set sag, put the rebound knob in the middle and left everything else wide open. The front wheel sticks to the ground and goes where you point it. Feels like cheating.

  23. #1323
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rangie View Post
    In case anyone with a Sasquatch is wondering, the crown and knobs clear no problem on a size large frame.

    I'm only one ride in, but ho-lee-chit! I cannot believe how much better the bike feels compared to the Bluto. All I did was set sag, put the rebound knob in the middle and left everything else wide open. The front wheel sticks to the ground and goes where you point it. Feels like cheating.
    NOOiiiCE!!!, i just got mine in the mail, 120 STD Comp, With remote lockout, tax in, shipped from australia 600CAD (15% off of ebay was applied they had like 1 day off everything) hoping to fit it tonight on a Bigfoot

  24. #1324
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    Quote Originally Posted by compengr View Post
    Is there a way to get the 8mm thin wall socket without buying the whole tool kit? Want to drop the lowers, check the oil. Lots of stiction...

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
    I sell them: https://www.shockcraft.co.nz/modifie...015-later.html

    Alternatively you can make your own if you have access to a lathe.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz and NZ Manitou Agent.
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  25. #1325
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    Anyone know if the Quarq Shockwiz can be used w Mastodon?

    Doesnít the fork allow the lowers to be moved up and down by hand when a pump is threaded onto the schrader valve?

  26. #1326
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    It will only work if you use an IRT without its IFP as a top cap

  27. #1327
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    Thanks HappyMTB.fr!!!!!!!

  28. #1328
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    Just had my first ride with a Pro STD at 100mm on my Suzi Q last night. Wicked fork! Might be coming back here for some tuning advice though. Bottom out was pretty harsh, which Iím going to try to fix with a volume spacer today. Compared to the rigid carbon fork, ... there is no comparison. I donít even mind the weight for the gain in comfort.

  29. #1329
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    Well that didnít go the way I expected. Apparently those extra spacers that come with the fork do not function like bottomless tokens. Ended up adding 10 PSI, which appears to have taken the harshness out.

  30. #1330
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    I have a suspension corrected frame designed for a 100mm shock. Can I keep the same A to C but use the 100mm EXT version to fit a 29+ Wheel? And how would I set that up. From reading this thread the EXT really makes it 120mm. I want it to be at 100 I believe.

  31. #1331
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigBran View Post
    I have a suspension corrected frame designed for a 100mm shock. Can I keep the same A to C but use the 100mm EXT version to fit a 29+ Wheel? And how would I set that up. From reading this thread the EXT really makes it 120mm. I want it to be at 100 I believe.
    I would go with the 120 EXT version, and adjust with the air pump attached to lower height to what you want, accounting for Sag. If 100mm is good, then you are all set. If you want you can experiment in seconds at 110, 120, 90, etc.

    I think you need EXT for the 29+ clearance, but I don't run them.
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  32. #1332
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeepRage View Post
    I would go with the 120 EXT version, and adjust with the air pump attached to lower height to what you want, accounting for Sag. If 100mm is good, then you are all set. If you want you can experiment in seconds at 110, 120, 90, etc.

    I think you need EXT for the 29+ clearance, but I don't run them.
    I got my 120 STD COMP - I am running 29+ 3.0" (https://www.veetireco.com/listings/plus-size-t-fatty/) on 50mm Rims and I haven't changed the top/out buttom out spacesrs at all, I have removed all air and fully compressed the fork still not even close to touching, the fork fully compressed has about an inch worth of space between the tire and the Crown.

    I'm Due for a write up but no time
    The fork is Great!

  33. #1333
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    Wonít the 120mm alter the geometry if my frame is suspension corrected for a 100mm shock?

  34. #1334
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigBran View Post
    Wonít the 120mm alter the geometry if my frame is suspension corrected for a 100mm shock?
    Adding suspension to any rigid bike alters its geometry as the suspension cycles. The primary concern about going longer is breaking the frame more than slackening it too much.

  35. #1335
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    anybody rebuild one of these suckers yet? I have two, and one has some miles on it...

  36. #1336
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigBran View Post
    Wonít the 120mm alter the geometry if my frame is suspension corrected for a 100mm shock?
    technically yes, but I went with 120mm STD (which is shorther height then the EXT), and I dont feel the difference.

    Mind you- there is an Easy suspension travel adjustment trick - when the shock pump is connected you are suppose to pump it when the fork is fully extended, however if you compress it say to 100mm and pump - it will fill both negative and positive chambers - it will stay in the travel as is - so you basically can very easily reduce it.
    I have seen people on this forum do that for 20mm, I was able to do it for 30mm (from 120 to 90) however I didn't ride like that and wouldn't know the Repercussion of that.

    All this without doing anything else but changing the spacing on the IVA, as I am about just under 200lb with gear. and the fork feels Good and doesn't seem to be bottoming out (not too aggressive - yet=)

  37. #1337
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    Added one of these forks (120 Pro, standard length) to my Voytek-the stock carbon fork is really stiff and my aging back just couldn't take the pounding anymore! I've only had one ride on it but I'm really impressed with it's quality and performance so far. And thanks to the good info in this thread I was able to get it set up pretty well right off the bat. So thanks for that, folks. The red decals will probably go pretty soon:

    Manitou Mastodon?-img_20180830_182535419.jpg

  38. #1338
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    Yeah I had to pull the big decals off mine

  39. #1339
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    Blizzard -50 and Mastodon Pro

    I bumped the travel to 140mm, then installed my Mastodon Pro onto my medium Rocky Mountain Blizzard -50.
    I was worried the crown was going to hit the downtube but it just fit(like 1/16" clearance).
    I can't wait to try it in the snow.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Manitou Mastodon?-20180822_182739_resized.jpg  

    Manitou Mastodon?-20180822_182712_resized-1280x720-.jpg  


  40. #1340
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aresab View Post
    This may not be the exact situation, but I have had something similar happen. I have 2 Jamis XCT3 Carbon 26ers from 2011. It was my main ride at the time and is now my sons and the other now my gravel bike. On the one that saw more use I had a constant problem with the headset loosening up and racked my brains like the OP. I could put fingernail in-between the gap of the headset top bearing cover and the frame (IS headset) and I had no rubbing on the cap, but the loosening persisted. I read in a prior post on MTBR that although I thought there was enough gap between the bearing cap and the bearing/frame interface there was not. I bought FSA micro-spacers and 2 .25mm on just under the bearing cap. The problem has been gone for over 2 years with no other changes. If you exhaust all other resources, that may work. Here is a link to them:

    FSA Headset Microspacers | Jenson USA
    I need one of these to prevent my topcap from rubbing on the headset. The steerer tube on the Mastadon is 1.5, and the link above is 1-1/8".... Out of luck or am I understanding something wrong?
    '16 Bucksaw Carbon X01

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  42. #1342
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    These go above the top bearing, which is 1-1/8".

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  43. #1343
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jester7677 View Post
    I need one of these to prevent my topcap from rubbing on the headset. The steerer tube on the Mastadon is 1.5, and the link above is 1-1/8".... Out of luck or am I understanding something wrong?
    Yes, that was the issue I had too, top cap rub causing a loose feeling headset. I placed mine above the compression ring which goes into the bearing and below my top cap. Without them the top cap bottomed out on the headset (carbon in my case because the headset is molded). The wonít help if you have are rubbing on the lower cup.

    Iím also experiencing the headset loose after the first ride or two. I understand it will stop after a bit and thatís not related to my other bike needing the micro-spacers.

  44. #1344
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    Manitou Mastodon?

    Quote Originally Posted by Aresab View Post
    Yes, that was the issue I had too, top cap rub causing a loose feeling headset. I placed mine above the compression ring which goes into the bearing and below my top cap. Without them the top cap bottomed out on the headset (carbon in my case because the headset is molded). The wonít help if you have are rubbing on the lower cup.

    Iím also experiencing the headset loose after the first ride or two. I understand it will stop after a bit and thatís not related to my other bike needing the micro-spacers.
    Thank you guys Iíll try this.

    Without it I get creaking when I pull up or push down on one side of the handlebar, or the other. Becomes an issue on climbs most noticeably. It drives me mad. Itís only started after a few rides and tightening efforts to remove the looseness, which isnít and issue now.
    '16 Bucksaw Carbon X01

  45. #1345
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    It has a tapered steerer. 1.5" is the bottom diameter. 1-1/8" is the top. Spacers go up top, so you need 1-1/8" spacers.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jester7677 View Post
    Well the mastodon has a 1.5Ē steerer and I need the .25mm spacer, as you described. Is there such a spacer, I canít seem to find one.

    Without it I get creaking when I pull up or push down on one side of the handlebar, or the other. Becomes an issue on climbs most noticeably. It drives me mad. Itís only started after a few rides and tightening efforts to remove the looseness, which isnít and issue now.
    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

  46. #1346
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    Quote Originally Posted by compengr View Post
    It has a tapered steerer. 1.5" is the bottom diameter. 1-1/8" is the top. Spacers go up top, so you need 1-1/8" spacers.

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
    I apologize, I didnít see your response and fixed my post. Many thanks, and if it works, my sanity will thank you too.
    '16 Bucksaw Carbon X01

  47. #1347
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    No worries. I hope it works out.
    Quote Originally Posted by Jester7677 View Post
    I apologize, I didnít see your response and fixed my post. Many thanks, and if it works, my sanity will thank you too.
    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

  48. #1348
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rodney View Post
    anybody rebuild one of these suckers yet? I have two, and one has some miles on it...
    Yes.
    Just tore down my 120 PRO and extended travel to 150.
    Completely disassembled the air spring= took everything apart and off-split the shaft/removed all seals, o-rings, spring underneath the piston and inspected. Everything looked shiny and new after a year + of riding. So, just lubed and put it back together minus the spacers required for the 150 conversion.
    Similar story for the damper side, everything looked fresh so just put it back together.
    Didn't bother to change fork seals since I change those every other lower leg bath service and they were recently done.
    Fork appears bulletproof for the most part, but when real work is needed, it is easy/simple to tear down and rebuild.
    Put several post tear down miles on it today at 150 travel and all is well.

  49. #1349
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    The 2019 Trek Farley 7 is specced with an 80mm Mastodon fork. But I see that the forks come in 100mm (adjustable to 80mm) or 120mm (adjustable to 140mm).

    The fork is the 100mm, just adjusted down to 80mm, right? Or you think it is a 80mm just made for Trek?

    Thanks!
    it's a challenge some of us are ultimately worthy of.

  50. #1350
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    Anyone have issues with a clicking from the steer tube interface?

    I didn't want to post anything until I had a chance to verify that it wasn't my headset or anything like that.

    I took all the spacers off (so it was loose in the frame) and it clicks. I put on a spare handlebar/stem from another bike, it clicks. Lastly I removed the wheel, & it clicks. So I'm left with the steer tube pressed into the uppers.

    Here are video's:
    Fork is loose in the frame for testing to isolate from headset:
    https://youtu.be/WmSZK07RIt8

    Spare stem & handlebar:
    https://youtu.be/sriNtuhbpRQ

    Wheel removed to ensure it wasn't the axle etc:
    https://youtu.be/cCuMiV6HPes

    Anyone have this issue?

    I did have the issue where the steer tube wasn't pressed all the way into the uppers that a few others had.

  51. #1351
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    Hey, not sure quite clicking like that but I do have an issue where its somehow loose in the headset---and I have tightented it down before and its still loose - didn't get to disassemble it yet...
    Its loose in a sense when doing a wheelie (wanted to get that skill) coming down i hear a click(something moves) and the steerer Tube actually rubs on the inside with the frame so turning goes kinda hard - and when I brake with the front wheel it lets go and its all normal again.
    Had a Carbonara and the regular steel fork and didn't have that issue, I only started noticing after a while... maybe this weekend I'll get the time to take a look into it..
    I'll check if its clicking like yours as well.

  52. #1352
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    Any chance someone could point me to where I can find the basics for adjusting this fork so I don't have to read 1,500 posts?

    I was following this thread last year then decided not to get one. Then a Comp fell into my lap and I bought it. It's from the Farley I was told.

    It's installed on the bike but likely adjusted for a guy about 50 pounds lighter than me.

    Thanks.
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

    16' Trek 8.4 DS
    16' Farley 7
    and I'm OK admitting..
    16' Sturgis

    Minneapolis MN

  53. #1353
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff_G View Post
    Any chance someone could point me to where I can find the basics for adjusting this fork so I don't have to read 1,500 posts?

    I was following this thread last year then decided not to get one. Then a Comp fell into my lap and I bought it. It's from the Farley I was told.

    It's installed on the bike but likely adjusted for a guy about 50 pounds lighter than me.

    Thanks.
    All I could find for my Comp is this - I'm assuming for the Comp you ignore the High Speed adjustment info.

    Manitou Mastodon?-shock-info.jpg

    http://www.manitoumtb.com/wp-content...etup-Guide.pdf
    What a perfect waste of time

  54. #1354
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    Excellent. Thank You.
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

    16' Trek 8.4 DS
    16' Farley 7
    and I'm OK admitting..
    16' Sturgis

    Minneapolis MN

  55. #1355
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    I've got some work to do on set up/riding ability. Rode some single track that I've ridden many times and "crashed" twice. One time hurt. Still hurts.

    I don't get the "pop' with a pedal stroke like I did. So I didn't make it a up a short steep uphill I've done 100 times. Went back down backwards and fell on my back.

    The front also dives a bit more . So planting the front end in a downhill technical feature (rock garden) almost put me over the bars more than once.

    But, the fast sections and drops were way better, I was clearly moving faster and my wrists, hands and neck instantly said "thanks for buying this shock".
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

    16' Trek 8.4 DS
    16' Farley 7
    and I'm OK admitting..
    16' Sturgis

    Minneapolis MN

  56. #1356
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    If thatís the case, bottom all the way counter clockwise (maybe 1-2) clockwise, tops the same except the levered one, one click clockwise. IMO of course. Itís how I have it.
    '16 Bucksaw Carbon X01

  57. #1357
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff_G View Post
    The front also dives a bit more . So planting the front end in a downhill technical feature (rock garden) almost put me over the bars more than once.
    .
    Does that feel excessive or just new to you?

    What travel is the fork? Was it changed from stock?

    But you might want to check your IVA settings.

    Also take note of your negative air chamber - attached your shock pump fully - pull up. Did it move?

    From Manual:

    https://www.manitoumtb.com/wp-conten...ange-Guide.pdf

    "All Mastodon assemblies are equipped with incremental volume adjust (IVA) air spring volume may
    be adjusted by moving the piston up or down to modify the ramp-up of the air spring. If the travel
    is adjusted, the IVA piston height should also be adjusted to maintain the air spring rate. Factory
    settings are shown below.
    Before modifying travel, confirm that leg length (shown below) matches the leg length of the
    desired travel setting. Measured leg length may vary slightly due to manufacturing Tolerances and
    measurement method.

    FAILURE TO USE THE CORRECT CSA FOR A GIVEN TRAVEL MAY CAUSE STRUCTURAL DAMAGE TO THE FORK
    AND RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY TO THE RIDER.

    MAstodon iva & guide
    TRAVEL, PRO/COMP (mm) 100 120 140 150
    SPACERS ABOVE PISTON 2 1 0 0
    SPACERS BELOW PISTON 2 3 4 4

  58. #1358
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff_G View Post
    Any chance someone could point me to where I can find the basics for adjusting this fork so I don't have to read 1,500 posts?

    I was following this thread last year then decided not to get one. Then a Comp fell into my lap and I bought it. It's from the Farley I was told.

    It's installed on the bike but likely adjusted for a guy about 50 pounds lighter than me.

    Thanks.
    One page setup guide here: https://www.shockcraft.co.nz/technic...rt/setup-guide

    In 10 minutes or so that'll get you with ballpark air pressure, rebound and compression settings.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz and NZ Manitou Agent.
    www.dougal.co.nz Suspension setup & tuning.
    SPV Devolve

  59. #1359
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    Asking for a friend.. No, I have XL Beargrease (the one with 177 mm rear) and I'm wondering if Mastodon does clear the frame?

    Another thing I'm trying to decide is 100 or 120 travel. Looking at the STD Pro models. 120 would have more A2C than recommended but it's a strong frame


    Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

  60. #1360
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    Well i have a couple e-mails into Worldwide Cyclery so hopefully they will let me know if they can warranty this.
    Clicking while I ride is driving me crazy.

  61. #1361
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    @shark - I got no clicking.
    I had an issue where my 2015 Norco Bigfoot 6.2 +CC tapered adapter wasn't too compatible with fork/frame.
    I have installed it in summer and had a Carbonara in it with no issues what so ever
    then installed Mastodon and it was rubbing between the cups in the frame like crazy... I had to Dremmel a hell of a lot of the insides to make sure it doesn't rub any more... today first ride since - its finally fully fitting and great.

    @edu2 - I would go with 120mm as it can be made int 140mm, while 100mm can only be set to 80mm. Also a trick - can change the travel with shock pump (although limited - easy 20mm adjustment - i tried and went to 100mm no issues didn't ride like that much though)
    connect shock pump, drain air, compress or extend to desired length - limited by what your travel is set to, pump air back in that position - travel will stay there.

    @Jeff_G/@Jester7677 - I have had similar situation - i have drained air with shock pump, unscrewed IVA top from left side - moved one token(dont quite remember which way=) and repumped air - the fork has become much more progressive, more resistant it feels like it got more air but PSI/travel length stays the same but just much more progressive for the weight.

  62. #1362
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    All, appreciate the input but I've been too busy to work on the bike. I did adjust and added a bit more air. The changes coupled with one ride's experience made it feel more comfortable.

    Lot's of playing around to do yet.
    "At least I'm enjoying the ride"

    16' Trek 8.4 DS
    16' Farley 7
    and I'm OK admitting..
    16' Sturgis

    Minneapolis MN

  63. #1363
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    I just pulled the trigger. Pro 120 STD from 365 Cycles for $612 shipped.

    I ride mild stuff, so I will be able to work with 100mm of travel and set this up to run 29+.

    One question: are the spacers that are needed to go in at the bottom to achieve the above included, or are is it a part that I need to buy separately?

    Thx

  64. #1364
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueCheesehead View Post
    I just pulled the trigger. Pro 120 STD from 365 Cycles for $612 shipped.

    I ride mild stuff, so I will be able to work with 100mm of travel and set this up to run 29+.

    One question: are the spacers that are needed to go in at the bottom to achieve the above included, or are is it a part that I need to buy separately?

    Thx
    On the Pro model they are all the same spacers and a couple are included.

  65. #1365
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shark View Post
    Anyone have issues with a clicking from the steer tube interface?

    I didn't want to post anything until I had a chance to verify that it wasn't my headset or anything like that.

    I took all the spacers off (so it was loose in the frame) and it clicks. I put on a spare handlebar/stem from another bike, it clicks. Lastly I removed the wheel, & it clicks. So I'm left with the steer tube pressed into the uppers.

    Here are video's:
    Fork is loose in the frame for testing to isolate from headset:
    https://youtu.be/WmSZK07RIt8

    Spare stem & handlebar:
    https://youtu.be/sriNtuhbpRQ

    Wheel removed to ensure it wasn't the axle etc:
    https://youtu.be/cCuMiV6HPes

    Anyone have this issue?

    I did have the issue where the steer tube wasn't pressed all the way into the uppers that a few others had.
    I have it now; not nearly that bad. Torque the IVA cap and damper cap, those hold the stanchions tight. After that there's Loctite 609 and or 290. I'm going with 290 first since it's wicking Type.

  66. #1366
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcracer2 View Post
    I have it now; not nearly that bad. Torque the IVA cap and damper cap, those hold the stanchions tight. After that there's Loctite 609 and or 290. I'm going with 290 first since it's wicking Type.
    Sweet Baby Jesus On A Bicycle!
    The caps DO NOT keep the stanchions tight!
    There is no reason to put Locktite on the caps
    Last edited by the mayor; 09-28-2018 at 06:15 AM.

  67. #1367
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    so i'm looking for a fork for my Farley 9.6 to run 29+ and 27.5 x 4.5

    I have read this thread numerous times, from what i have determined, i'm better off going with the standard length and moving spacers around.

    I should also be getting a 120 fork (which can be lengthened or shortened to 100) rather than the 100 which can only be shortened to 80).

    I'm looking at the Pro model, standard length, 120 travel.

    Anyone running this on a Farley?

    thanks
    Mike
    Toronto, Canada
    Giant Trance Advanced 1
    Trek Farley 9.6 + Lauf
    Diamondback Haanjo Trail Carbon
    Scott Solace 10 Disc

  68. #1368
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swerny View Post
    so i'm looking for a fork for my Farley 9.6 to run 29+ and 27.5 x 4.5

    I have read this thread numerous times, from what i have determined, i'm better off going with the standard length and moving spacers around.

    I should also be getting a 120 fork (which can be lengthened or shortened to 100) rather than the 100 which can only be shortened to 80).

    I'm looking at the Pro model, standard length, 120 travel.

    Anyone running this on a Farley?

    thanks
    No on the Farley, but you have reached the same conclusion I did. In my case I am having to change from 160 to 180mm discs.

  69. #1369
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swerny View Post
    so i'm looking for a fork for my Farley 9.6 to run 29+ and 27.5 x 4.5

    I have read this thread numerous times, from what i have determined, i'm better off going with the standard length and moving spacers around.

    I should also be getting a 120 fork (which can be lengthened or shortened to 100) rather than the 100 which can only be shortened to 80).

    I'm looking at the Pro model, standard length, 120 travel.

    Anyone running this on a Farley?

    thanks
    Yeah the pro standard 120mm, on my Farley 9.6, you'll need to use a crown spacer, or the knobs will crash into your downtube, if you're running the 4.5 Gnarwhals with studs, you should add a bottom out spacer also.
    I find that about 100mm to 110mm of travel works best for me on tight technical trails.

    http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/man...l#post13565496

    Manitou Mastodon?-img_6864a.jpg

  70. #1370
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swerny View Post
    I should also be getting a 120 fork (which can be lengthened or shortened to 100) rather than the 100 which can only be shortened to 80).
    thanks
    I've checked with Manitou. The 120 cannot be shortened to 100 unless you purchase additional parts (crown steerer assembly).

    You can add spacers that limit travel, but then you'd have the same A2C measure as the 120mm fork but you'd only be using 100mm. So basically you'd still have a 120mm length fork.

    All depends on what you need to achieve.

  71. #1371
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    Quote Originally Posted by CanmoreBruce View Post
    I've checked with Manitou. The 120 cannot be shortened to 100 unless you purchase additional parts (crown steerer assembly).

    You can add spacers that limit travel, but then you'd have the same A2C measure as the 120mm fork but you'd only be using 100mm. So basically you'd still have a 120mm length fork.

    All depends on what you need to achieve.
    This isn't accurate. Myself and many others have reduced travel to 100 simply by attaching fork pump and compressing to desired height and disconnecting. No parts needed.
    2017 Santa Cruz Tallboy C 29er
    2018 Canyon Dude fatty with Mastodon
    2018 Nashbar Sora Alloy gravel bike

  72. #1372
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    Yes, you can do that as well. I do it myself. You could make it effectively less than 100m as well using the pump trick.

    But if you actually want to convert a 120mm to a 100mm fork you require additional parts. Accurate or not, here is what Manitou themselves say. Not me.

    "The fork will gain or shorten in length with every 10mm travel spacer that you add or remove. See travel change info here, https://www.manitoumtb.com/wp-conten...ange-Guide.pdf

    Note, to lower travel below 120 you would need to replace the CSA, part numbers shown in the exploded views."

  73. #1373
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    Quote Originally Posted by JeepRage View Post
    This isn't accurate. Myself and many others have reduced travel to 100 simply by attaching fork pump and compressing to desired height and disconnecting. No parts needed.
    I talked to Manitou tech about this and they said that using the pump to do this adversely affects the upper and lower chamber performance. They totally discouraged me from using this "technique." If it works for you, that's fine, but the tech on the phone jumped all over me when I mentioned it...

  74. #1374
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    Quote Originally Posted by CanmoreBruce View Post
    I've checked with Manitou. The 120 cannot be shortened to 100 unless you purchase additional parts (crown steerer assembly).

    You can add spacers that limit travel, but then you'd have the same A2C measure as the 120mm fork but you'd only be using 100mm. So basically you'd still have a 120mm length fork.

    All depends on what you need to achieve.
    There are ways to do what you are intending. You would have to adjust the bottom spacers as well, including the damper side. It's a matter of adding spacers and moving some from top to bottom.

    I customized mine. I actually mine running at 127mm without raising the BB height to much by being creative. If you take it apart and understand how the spacers are working, you can do whatever you need to, with out changing CSU.

  75. #1375
    All fat, all the time.
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    Mine is being sent in for some type of repair to fix the clicking....
    I guess they fat tires are coming out early!

  76. #1376
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    Does the Mastodon fit the carbon speed CS-001? Yes!

    Hi,

    If anyone wants to know the Mastodon does fit the CS-001 the answer is yes. See pictures below ->
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Manitou Mastodon?-dsc_0433%5B2%5D.jpg  

    Manitou Mastodon?-dsc_0432%5B2%5D.jpg  


  77. #1377
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmbrown View Post
    Yeah the pro standard 120mm, on my Farley 9.6, you'll need to use a crown spacer, or the knobs will crash into your downtube, if you're running the 4.5 Gnarwhals with studs, you should add a bottom out spacer also.
    I find that about 100mm to 110mm of travel works best for me on tight technical trails.

    http://forums.mtbr.com/fat-bikes/man...l#post13565496

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks, what size frame is that?

  78. #1378
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    Quote Originally Posted by CanmoreBruce View Post
    I've checked with Manitou. The 120 cannot be shortened to 100 unless you purchase additional parts (crown steerer assembly).

    You can add spacers that limit travel, but then you'd have the same A2C measure as the 120mm fork but you'd only be using 100mm. So basically you'd still have a 120mm length fork.

    All depends on what you need to achieve.
    The additional parts you need are 2x 10mm spacers like these: https://www.shockcraft.co.nz/travel-...t-manitou.html

    You can do it without the spacers by doing the pump trick temporarily. But you need to set the fork height every time you attach a pump if you do that.

    Yes reducing the travel like this increases negative air volume. But that's almost never a bad thing on a fork.
    Owner of www.shockcraft.co.nz and NZ Manitou Agent.
    www.dougal.co.nz Suspension setup & tuning.
    SPV Devolve

  79. #1379
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    A year later I am still loving this fork! Made it a new set of decals to match my bikes new paint job. 120mm travel ext fork on a medium Blackborrow.Manitou Mastodon?-20180930_162444.jpgManitou Mastodon?-20180930_162823.jpg

  80. #1380
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    Nice looking decals. I just got my fork installed and will be swapping out the red/white decals for the grey. How do people get the decals off, heat gun?

  81. #1381
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    Quote Originally Posted by Swerny View Post
    Thanks, what size frame is that?
    17.5"

  82. #1382
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueCheesehead View Post
    Nice looking decals. I just got my fork installed and will be swapping out the red/white decals for the grey. How do people get the decals off, heat gun?
    Hair dryer will work.

  83. #1383
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    The decals just come off if you pick at a corner with your fingernail. They aren't very sticky.

  84. #1384
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dougal View Post
    The additional parts you need are 2x 10mm spacers like these: https://www.shockcraft.co.nz/travel-...t-manitou.html

    You can do it without the spacers by doing the pump trick temporarily. But you need to set the fork height every time you attach a pump if you do that.

    Yes reducing the travel like this increases negative air volume. But that's almost never a bad thing on a fork.
    Excellent! Thank you Dougal. I'd been around in a few circles on this question with my LBS and Manitou. I'll give it a try and see if I notice/appreciate the increased negative air volume.

    Either way I shall report back with the results and any changes to fork performance (assuming I'm smart enough to notice...)

  85. #1385
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmbrown View Post
    17.5"
    Thanks, I have a 19.5 so I might have clearance

  86. #1386
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    I guess they put a new set of uppers on mine, so thumbs up to Worldwide cyclery and Manitou. Shipped it off a couple weeks ago and it is on its way back fixed.

  87. #1387
    All fat, all the time.
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    Got my fork back with a new set up uppers. Hopefully it's nice & quiet now!

  88. #1388
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    Apparently my Mastodon wasn't immune to the steerer slip. Despite a fair bit of use last winter it didn't move at all.

    Noticed the headset was lose while getting the bike ready for the season. I was able to make it slip just by bouncing the front wheel a couple of times. I kept at it till it would move no more. Hopefully it stays that way and remains creak free.

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

  89. #1389
    All fat, all the time.
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    First ride after the repair and it's nice and quiet. Yay!
    The lenz seems to like the 140 instead of 120 also.
    Last edited by Shark; 6 Days Ago at 07:35 AM.

  90. #1390
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    Has anyone tried using a Manitou Mastodon Ext fork (I have 4.8 tires) 100mm on a Scott Big Jon? Any issues with clearance with the downtube or other fit issues? Thanks

  91. #1391
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lookbiker View Post
    Has anyone tried using a Manitou Mastodon Ext fork (I have 4.8 tires) 100mm on a Scott Big Jon? Any issues with clearance with the downtube or other fit issues? Thanks
    The crown on an EXT and STD are the same and travel makes no difference for frame clearance. What may matter is what size frame you have. What frame size do you have?

  92. #1392
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    I have a medium Big Jon thanks

  93. #1393
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9GUY9 View Post
    A year later I am still loving this fork! Made it a new set of decals to match my bikes new paint job. 120mm travel ext fork on a medium Blackborrow.Click image for larger version. 

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    Where did you get the purple decals?

  94. #1394
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lookbiker View Post
    I have a medium Big Jon thanks
    The Big Jon down tube looks similar to the Blackborow in the picture above. You might be able to do a geometry comparison to see if it "should" clear or if a headset extender would be necessary.

  95. #1395
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    Just installed my Pro EXT! Love the fork and clears an Alaskan Alloy 21Ē frame. 4 tokens above and 2 below piston @108psi for a 255lbs Clidsdale seems sufficient.

  96. #1396
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    Quote Originally Posted by chode View Post
    Just installed my Pro EXT! Love the fork and clears an Alaskan Alloy 21Ē frame. 4 tokens above and 2 below piston @108psi for a 255lbs Clidsdale seems sufficient.
    I hate to be the bearer of bad news.....but your fork doesn't use tokens.
    Maybe your talking about Travel spacers? Or spacers in the IVA(which only uses 4 spacers total if I remember correctly)?

  97. #1397
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    I hate to be the bearer of bad news.....but your fork doesn't use tokens.
    Maybe your talking about Travel spacers? Or spacers in the IVA(which only uses 4 spacers total if I remember correctly)?
    I apologize ,thatís ďBlutoĒ talk which I retired today. Yes, I am testing the IVA with (4) ďTravel SpacersĒ above the piston. Trying to find a decent setup for my size and a till skimming through the 14 pages on this fork.

  98. #1398
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    Quote Originally Posted by kntr View Post
    Where did you get the purple decals?
    I made them. I have a vinyl plotter.

  99. #1399
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9GUY9 View Post
    I made them. I have a vinyl plotter.
    Hey, new best friend!

  100. #1400
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    Anyone else managed to bang their knee on the Mastodons top cap yet? Ouch!

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